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33  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  MY.  14580 

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empreinte. 

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symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 

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illustrent  la  methods. 


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THE  RIYER  OF  THE  WEST. 


-♦♦♦- 


LIFE  AND  ADYENTUEE 


Uf  TBI 


ROCKY  MOUNTAINS  AND  OREGON; 

IHBRACIHa  BTlttTS  I»  TH«  Ufl-TIMB  OF  A 

MOUNTAIN-MAN  AND  PIONEER: 

WITH  TBI 

Early  History  of  the  North-Western  Slope, 

AN  ACCOUNT  OF  THE  FOR.TRADERS,  THE  INDIAN  TRIBES,  THE  OVERLAND  IMMIGRA- 
TION, THE  OREGON  MISSIONS,  AND  THE  TRAGIC  FATE  OF 
REV.  DR.  WHITMAN  AND  FAMILY. 

ALSO,  A  DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  COUNTRY, 

ITS  CONDITION,  PROSPECTS,  AND  RESOURCES ;   ITS  SOIL,  CLIMATE,  AND  SCENERY ; 

ITS  MOUNTAINS,  RIVERS,  VALLEYS,  DESERTS,  AND  PLAINS  ;    ITS 

INLAND  WATERS,  AND  NATURAL  WONDERS. 

■WITH   NTJaiEROTJS   KKrGHI,A.VINa-S. 


BY  MRS.  FRANCES   FULLER  VICTOR. 


FUBLISH2S  B7  SOBSCaiFTIOiT  0»L7. 


HARTFORD.   OONN.: 

.BLISS  &  CO,,  NEWARK,  N.  J. ;  W.  E.  BLISS  &  CO.,  TOLEDO,  0.: 

B.  J.  TRUMBULL  &  CO.,  SAN  FRANCISCO,  CAL. 

1870. 


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ft'-f 


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ii 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress  in  the  year  18fi9,  by 

R.   W.   ULISS  &   CO., 

In  the  Clerk's  OflRce  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United  States  for  the  District  of 

Connecticut. 


ic  District  of 


•WE  FIND  THEM,  ACCORDINGT-Y,  HARDY,  tITHE,  VIGOROUS,  AND  AC- 
TIVE :  EXTRAVAGANT  IN  WORD,  IN  THOUGHT,  AND  DEED  :  HEEDLESS  OF 
hardship;  DARING  OF  DANGER;  PRODIGAL  OF  THE  PRESENT,  AND 
THOUGHTLESS   OF   THE  FUTURE. — Irving. 


v< 


INTRODUCTION. 


When  the  author  of  this  book  has  been  absorbed  in  the 
elegant  narratives  of  Washington  Irving,  reading  and 
musing  over  Astoria  and  Bonneville^  in  the  cozy  quiet  of 
a  New  York  study,  no  prescient  motion  of  the  mind  ever 
gave  prophetic  indication  of  that  personal  acquaintance 
which  has  since  been  formed  with  the  scenes,  and  even 
with  some  of  the  characters  which  figure  in  the  works  just 
referred  to.  Yet  so  have  events  shaped  themselves  that 
to  me  Astoria  is  familiar  ground ;  Forts  Vancouver  and 
Walla- Walla  pictured  forever  in  my  memory ;  while  such 
journeys  as  I  have  been  enabled  to  make  into  the  coantry 
east  of  the  last  named  fort,  have  given  me  a  fair  insight 
into  the  characteristic  features  of  its  mountains  and  its 
plains. 

To-day,  a  railroad  traverses  the  level  stretch  between 
the  Missouri  River  and  the  Rocky  Mountains,  along  which, 
thirty  years  ago,  the  fur-traders  had  worn  a  trail  by  thei 
annual  excursions  with  men,  pack-horses,  and  sometime 
wagons,  destined  to  the  Rocky  Mountains.  Then,  they 
had  to  guard  against  the  attacks  of  the  Savages ;  and  in 
this  respect  civilization  is  behind  the  railroad,  for  now,  as 
then,  it  is  not  safe  to  travel  without  a  sufi&cient  escort. 
To-day,  also,  we  have  new  Territories  called  by  several 
names  cut  out  of  the  identical  hunting-grounds  of  the  fur- 
traders  of  thirty  years  ago ;  and  steamboats  plying  the 
rivers  where  the  mountain-men  came  to  set  their  traps  for 
beaver;  or  cities  growing  up  like  mushrooms  from  a  soil 


IV 


INTRODUCTION. 


made  quick  by  f^old,  where  the  hardy  mountain-hunter 
pursued  the  buH'alo  herds  in  search  of  hia  winter's  supply 
ol'  food. 

Tlic  wonderful  romance  which  once  gave  enchantment 
to  stories  of  luirdship  and  of  daring  deod  ',  suffered  and 
done  in  these  then  distant  wilds,  is  fast  being  dissipated 
by  the  rapid  settlement  of  the  new  Territories,  and  by  the 
familiarity  of  the  public  mind  with  tales  of  stirring  adven- 
ture encountered  in  the  search  for  glittering  ores.  It  was, 
then,  not  without  an  emotion  of  pleased  surprise  that  I 
first  encountered  in  the  fertile  plains  of  Western  Oregon 
the  subject  of  this  biography,  a  man  fifty-eight  years  of 
age,  of  fine  appearance  and  buoyant  temper,  full  of  i*i.ec- 
dotc,  and  with  a  memory  well  stored  with  personal  recol- 
lections of  all  the  men  of  note  who  have  formerly  visited 
the  old  Oregon  Territory,  when  it  comprised  the  whole 
country  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  lying  north  of  Cali- 
fornia and  south  of  tlie  forty-ninth  parallel.  This  man  is 
Joseph  L.  Meek,  to  whose  stories  of  mountain-life  I  have 
listened  for  days  together;  and  who,  after  having  figured 
conspicuously,  and  not  without  considerable  fame,  in  the 
early  history  of  Oregon,  still  prides  himself  most  of  all  on 
having  been  a  "mountain-man." 

Most  persons  are  familiar  with  the  popular,  celebrated 
.idian  pictures  of  the  artist  Stanley ;  and  it  cannot  fail  to 
/iter est  the  reader  to  learn  that  in  one  of  these  Meek  is 
represented  as  firing  his  last  shot  at  the  pursuing  Savages. 
He  was  also  the  hero  of  another  picture,  painted  by  an 
English  artist.     The  latter  picture  represents  him  in  a  con- 
I  test  with  a  grizzly  bear,  and  has  been  copied  in  wax  for 
the  benefit  of  a  St.  Louis  Museum,  where  it  has  been  re- 
peatedly recognized  by  Western  men. 

It  has  frequently  been  suggested  to  Mr.  Meek,  who  has 
now  come  to  be  known  by  the  fsnaPhc  title  of  "Uncle 


INTRODUCTION.  ▼ 

Joe"  to  all  Oregon,  that  a  history  of  his  varied  ail  ventures 
would  make  a  readable  book,  and  some  of  his  neighbors 
have  even  undertaken  to  become  his  historian,  yet  with  so 
little  well-directed  efforts  that  the  task  after  all  has  fallen 
to  a  comparative  stranger.  I  conff^ssto  having  taken  hold 
of  it  with  some  doubts  as  to  my  claims  to  the  office;  and 
the  best  recommendation  I  can  give  my  work  is  the  inter- 
est I  myself  felt  in  the  subjec  fit;  and  the  only  apology 
I  can  offer  for  anything  incredii'  c  in  the  narrative  which 
it  may  contain,  is  that  I  "  tell  the  tale  as  'twas  told  to  mc," 
and  that  I  have  no  occasi:  iT  to  doubt  the  trutli  of  it. 

Mr.  Meek  has  not  attempted  to  disguise  the  fact  that  he, 
as  a  mountain-man,  "did  tho.se  things  which  he  ought  not 
to  have  done,  and  left  undone  those  things  which  he  ought 
to  have  done."  It  will  be  seen,  by  referring  to  Mr.  Ir- 
ving's  account  of  this  class  of  men,  as  given  him  by  Capt. 
Bonneville,  that  he  in  no  wise  differed  from  the  majority 
of  them  in  his  practical  rendering  of  the  moral  code,  and 
his  indifference  to  some  of  the  commandments.  Yet,  no 
one  seeing  Uncle  Joe  in  his  present  aspect  of  a  good- 
humored,  quiet,  and  not  undignified  citizen  of  the  "  Plains," 
would  be  likely  to  attribute  to  him  any  very  bad  or  dan- 
gerous qualities.  It  is  only  when  recalling  the  scenes  of 
his  early  exploits  in  mountain  life,  that  the  smouldering 
fire  of  his  still  fine  eyes  brightens  up  with  something  sug- 
gestible of  the  dare-devil  spirit  which  characterized  those 
exploits,  and  made  him  famous  even  among  his  compeers, 
when  they  were  such  men  as  Kit  Carson,  Peg-Leg  Smith, 
and  others  of  that  doughty  band  of  bear-fighters. 

Seeing  that  the  incidents  I  had  to  record  embraced  a 
period  of  a  score  and  a  half  of  years,  and  that  they  ex- 
tended over  those  years  most  interesting  in  Oregon  his- 
tory, as  well  as  of  the  history  of  the  Fur  Trade  in  the 
West,  I  have  concluded  to  preface  Mr.  Meek's  adventures 


VI 


INTRODUCTION. 


with  a  sketch  of  the  latter,  believing  that  the  information 
thus  conveyed  to  the  reader  will  give  an  additional  degree 
of  interest  to  their  narration.  The  impression  made  upon 
my  own  mind  as  I  gained  a  knowledge  of  the  facts  which 
I  shall  record  in  this  book  relating  to  the  early  occupation 
of  Oregon,  was  that  they  were  not  only  profoundly  roman- 
tic, but  decidedly  unique. 

In  giving  Mr.  Meek's  personal  adventures  I  should  have 
preferred  always  to  have  clothed  them  in  his  own  peculiar 
language  could  my  mefmory  have  served  me,  and  above 
all  I  should  have  wished  to  convey  to  the  reader  some  im- 
pression of  the  tones  of  his  voice,  both  rich  and  soft,  and 
deep,  too ;  or  suddenly  changing,  with  a  versatile  power 
quite  remarkable,  as  he  gave  with  natural  dramatic  ability 
the  perfect  imitation  of  another's  voice  and  manner.  But 
these  fine  touches  of  narrative  are  beyond  the  author's 
skill,  and  the  reader  must  perforce  be  content  with  words, 
aided  only  by  his  own  powers  of  imagination  in  conjuring 
up  such  tones  and  subtile  inflexions  of  voice  as  seem  to 
him  to  suit  the  subject.  Mr.  Meek's  pronunciation  is 
Southern.  He  says  "thar,"  and  "whar,"  and  "bar," 
like  a  true  Virginian  as  he  is,  being  a  blood  relation  of  one 
of  our  Presidents  from  that  State,  as  well  as  cousin  to  other 
one-time  inmates  of  the  White  House.  Like  the  children 
of  many  other  slave-holding  planters  he  received  little  at- 
tention, and  was  allowed  to  frequent  the  negro  quarters, 
while  the  alphabet  was  neglected.  At  the  age  of  sixteen 
he  could  not  read.  He  had  been  sent  to  a  school  in  the 
neighborhood,  where  he  had  the  alphabet  set  for  him  on 
^  a  wooden  "paddle;''  but  not  liking  this  method  of  in- 
struction he  one  day  "hit  the  teacher  over  the  head  with 
it,  and  ran  home,"  where  ho  was  sulTered  to  disport  him- 
self among  his  black  associates,  clad  like  themselves  in  a 
tow  frock,  and  guiltless  of  shoes  and  stockings.     This  sort 


INTRODUCTION. 


Vll 


of  training  was  not  without  its  advantages  to  the  physical 
man ;  on  the  contrary,  it  produced,  in  this  instance,  as  in 
many  others,  a  tall,  broad-shouldered,  powerful  and  hand- 
some man,  with  plent}  of  animal  courage  and  spirit, 
though  somewhat  at  the  expense  of  the  inner  furnishing 
which  is  supposed  to  be  necessary  to  a  perfect  develop- 
ment. In  this  instance,  however,  Nature  had  been  more 
than  usually  kind,  and  distinguished  her  favorite  with  a 
sort  of  inborn  grace  and  courtesy  which,  in  some  phases 
of  his  eventful  life,  served  him  well. 

Mr.  Meek  was  born  in  Washington  Co.,  Virginia,  in 
1810,  one  year  before  the  settlement  of  Astoria^  and  at  a 
period  when  Congress  was  much  interested  in  the  question 
of  our  Western  possessions  and  their  boundary.  "Mani- 
fest destiny  "  seemed  to  have  raised  him  up,  together  with 
many  others,  bold,  hardy,  and  fearless  men,  to  become 
sentinels  on  the  outposts  of  civilization,  securing  to  the 
United  States  with  comparative  ease  a  vast  extent  of  ter- 
ritory, for  which,  without  them,  a  long  struggle  with  Eng- 
land would  have  taken  place,  delaying  the  settlement  of 
the  Pacific  Coast  for  many  years,  if  not  losing  it  to  us  alto- 
gether. It  is  not  without  a  feeling  of  genuine  self-congrat- 
ulation, that  I  am  able  to  bear  testimony  to  the  services, 
hitherto  hardly  recognized,  of  the  "  mountain-men  "  who 
have  settled  in  Oregon.  Whenever  there  shall  arise  a 
studious  and  faithful  historian,  their  names  shall  not  be 
excluded  from  honorable  mention,  nor  least  illustrious  will 
appear  that  of  Joseph  L.  Meek,  the  Rocky  Mountain  Hunt- 
er and  Trapper. 


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SUNSET  AT  THE  MOUTH  OF  THE  COLUMBIA. 


There  sinks  the  sun  ;  like  cavalier  of  old, 

Servant  of  crafty  Spain, 
H*'.  flaunts  bis  banner,  barred  with  blood  and  gold, 

Wide  o'er  the  western  main ; 
A  thousand  spear  heads  glint  beyond  the  trees 
'    In  columns  bright  and  long. 
While  kindling  fancy  hears  upon  the  breeze  .    s 

The  swell  of  shout  and  song. 

And  yet  not  here  Spain's  gay,  adventuious  host 

Dipped  sword  or  planted  cross  ; 
The  treasures  guarded  by  tliis  rock-bound  coaat 

Counted  them  gain  nor  loss. 
The  blue  Columbia,  sired  by  the  eternal  hills 

And  wedded  with  the  sea, 
O'er  golden  sands,  tithes  from  a  thousand  rills, 

Rolled  in  lone  majesty — 

Through  deep  ravine;  through  burning,  barren  plaiiii 

Through  wild  and  rocky  strait. 
Through  forest  dark,  and  mountain  rent  in  twain 

Toward  the  sunset  gate; 
While  curious  eyes,  keen  with  the  lust  of  gold. 

Caught  not  the  informing  gleam. 
These  mighty  breakers  age  on  age  have  rolled 

To  meet  this  mighty  stream. 

Age  after  age  these  noble  hills  have  kept, 

The  same  majestic  lines  ; 
Age  after  age  the  horizon's  edge  been  swept 

By  fringe  of  pointed  pines. 
Summers  and  Winters  circling  came  and  went, 

Bringing  no  change  of  scene  ; 
Unresting,  and  unhasting,  and  unspent, 

Dwelt  Nature  here  serene  I 


ix 


.K 


Till  God's  own  time  to  plant  of  Freedom's  seed, 

In  this  selected  soil ; 
Denied  forever  unto  blood  and  greed, 

But  blest  to  honest  toil. 
There  sinks  the  sun  ;  Gay  cavalier  no  more  I 

His  bpnners  trail  the  sea, 
And  all  his  legions  shining  ou  the  shore 

Fade  into  mystery. 


The  swelling  tide  laps  on  the  shingly  beach, 

Like  any  starving  thing ;  1' 

And  hungry  breakers,  white  with  wrath,  upreach. 

In  a  vain  clamoring. 
The  shadows  fall ;  just  level  with  mine  eye 

Sweet  Hesper  stands  and  shines, 
And  shines  beneath  an  arc  of  golden  sky, 

Finked  round  with  pointed  pines. 

A  noble  scene  !  all  breadth,  deep  tone,  and  power, 

Suggesting  glorious  themes ; 
Shaming  the  idler  who  would  fill  the  hour 

With  unsubstantial  dreams. 
Be  mine  the  dreams  prophetic,  shadowing  forth 

The  things  that  yet  shall  be, 
When  throujrh  this  gate  the  treasures  of  the  North 

Flow  outward  to  the  sea> 


;(j' 


- '.  -r 


':^'  .■ 


w 


:^\ri~y}-C-('\r 


ILLUSTEATIONS. 


.,it 


Paos. 
Portrait  of  Joseph  L.  Meek. — Frontispiece. 

The  Enlistment,           -           -           -           -           -           -           -  42 

The  Summer  Rendezvous,             ....           _  48 

Beaver-daM;       .....---66 

The  Three  "Bares," -92 

The  Wrong  End  of  the  Tree,         -           -           -           -           -  94 

Branding  Cattle,    -------  150 

The  Mule  Fort,           -----.-  155 

The  Free  Trapper's  Indian  Wife,         -            -            -           -  177 

Descending  the  Blue  Mountains,    -           -           -           -           -  211 

The  Bear  in  Camp,             -           -            -            -            -            -  219 

Satisfkd  with  Bear  Fighting,        -           -           -         .-           -  221 

The  Trapper's  Last  Shot,            -            -            -            -            -  229 

The  Squaw's  Escape,  -  -.  -  -  •  -  -231 

A  Buffalo  Hunt,    -------  246 

The  Missionary  Wedge,         .--.--  274 

Wrecked  in  the  Rapids,               .            .            -            .           -  336 

The  Cascade  Mountain  Road-Hunters,     .           -           -           -  374 

Massacre  of  Dr.  Whitman  and  Family,  of  the  Presbyterian 

Mission,        ----....  410 

Meek  as  Steamboat  Runner,      -----  441 

"Take  Care  Knox," -  461 

A  Mountain-man  in  Clover,        -----  451 

Gov.  Lane  and  Marshal  Meek  En  Route  to  Oregon,    -           -  476 

Oregon  Beaver-money,      ------  486 

Meek  as  United  States  Marshal,  -  -  -  -  - 

Mt.  Ranier  from   Puget  Sound,  -----  5GI 

She  udan'b  First  Battle-Ground,  Columbia  River,        -           -  568 

Cas'-le  Rock,            -------  5^9 

Horse-Tail  Fall,  -  -  -  -  -  -  -570 

View  on  the  Columbia,    ------  571 

Mt.  Hood  from  the  Dalles,             -           -           -           -           -  878 


CONTENTS 


Pasi. 


PREFATORY    CHAPTER. 

Astoria — Fort  Vancouver — Its  isolated  Position— Precautions  against  In 
dians — The  Hudson's  Bay  Company — Its  Policy  and  Intercourse  with 
the  Indians — The  Arrival  of  the  "  Brigade  " — Other  Yearly  Arrivals —  . 
Punishment  of  Indian  Offenders — Indian  Strategy — A  Hero — The 
American  Fur  Companies — Their  Dealings  with  the  Indians — Ashley's 
Expeditions  to  Green  River— Attack  on  Smith's  Party— Wyeth's  Ex- 
peditions—Fort Hall — Decline  of  the  Fur  Trade— Causes  of  the  Indians' 
Hostility — Dangers  attending  the  Trapper's  Life,  -  -  -    23 

CHAPTER    I. 

Early  Life  of  Meek — He  leaves  Home — Enlists  in  a  Fur  Company — On 
the  March — A  Warning  Voice  —Frontier  Sports — Last  Vestige  of  Civil- 
ization— On  the  Plains — A  first  Adventure — A  firm  Front — A  Parley — 
The  Summer  Rendezvous — An  enchanting  Picture — Tlie  Free  Trap- 
per's Indian  Wife — Wild  Carousals — Routine  of  Camp  Life — Smoked 
Moccasins  versus  Green  Ones — A  "  Trifling  Fellow,"   -  -  .41 

CHAPTER    II. 

The  Camp  in  Motion — A  Trapping  Expedition — Opposition  to  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company — Beautiful  Scenery — The  Lost  Leader  Found — 
Rejoicings  in  Camp — The  "Luck"  of  the  Trappers — Conference  of 
Leaders — The  "Devil's  Own" — Blackfoot  Character — Account  of  the 
Tribes,    ---.-----    57 


CHAPTER    III. 

How  Beaver  are  Taken — Beaver  Dams — Formation  of  Meadows — Beaver 
Lodges — "  Bachelors  " — Trapping  in  Winter — "  Up  to  Trap  " — Black- 
feet  oh  the  Trail — On  Guard^The  Trapper's  Ruse — A  disappointed 
Bear — A  Fight  with  Blackfeet — "  Out  of  Luck  — Alone  in  the  Moun- 
tains— Splendid  Views — A  Miserable  Night — The  last  Luxury  of  Life — 
The  Awfulness  of  Solitude — A  Singular  Discovery — A  Hell  on  Earth — 
A  Joyful  Recognition — Hard  Times  in  Camp — The  Negro's  Porcupine — 
Craig's  Rabbit — Deep  Snows — What  the  Scout  saw — Bighorn  River— 
"  Colter's  Hell " — An  Alarm — Arrival  at  Wind  River — Christmas, 

CHAPTER    IV. 

Removal  to  Powder  River — A  Trapper's  Paradise — The  Transformation 
in  the  Wilderness — The  Encampment  by  Night — Meek  takes  to  Study — 


64 


xii 


CONTENTS. 


1 


i 


i 


Paoi. 
On  the  Move — Loss  of  Horses  and  Traps — Robbed  and  Insulted  by  a 
Bear — Crossing  the  Yellowstone — A  Novel  Ferriage — Annoyance  from 
Blackfeet — A  Cache  Opened — A  Comrade  Killed — Rude  Burial  Serv- 
ice— Return  to  Rendezvous — Gay  Times — Tlie  old  Partners  take  Leave,      82 

.::,:'.'>:'..■:.  .','.-.-''  CHAPTER  V.  Ay-  I  .. 
Grizzly  Bears — An  Adventure  with  a  Grizzly — The  Three  "  Bares  " — 
The  Mountain-Man's  Manners  —  Joking  the  Leaders — The  Irishman 
and  the  Booshway — How  Sublette  climbed  a  Tree  and  escaped  a  Bear — 
Rival  Trappers — Whisky  as  a  Strong  Card — Ogden's  Indian  Wife — 
Her  Courage  and  Escape — Winter  Quarters — Crow  Horse-Tliieves — 
An  Expedition  on  Foot — Night  Attack  on  the  Indian  Fort — Fitzpatrick 
Missing — Destitution  in  Camp — A  "Medicine-Man"  consulted — "Mak- 
ing Medicine" — A  Vision  Obtained — Fitzpatrick  Found — Death  of 
Smith —  An  Expedition  on  Snow-Shoes,  -  -  -  -     90 


ri 


'  CHAPTER    VI 

Annoying  Competition  —  The  Chiefs  Daughter — Sublette  Wounded — 
Forty  Days  of  Isolation — Sublette  and  Meek  captured  by  Snake  In- 
dians— A  Solemn  Council — Sentence  of  Death — Hope  Deferred — A  Res- 
cue— The  "Mountain  Liirab" — An  Obstinate  Rival — Blackfeet  Ma- 
rauders— Fitzpatrick's  Adventures  in  the  IMountains — "  When  the  Pie 
was  opened  the  Birds  began  to  Sing  " — Rough  Sports — A  Man  on  Fire — 
Brigades  ready  for  the  Start — Blackfeet  Caravan — Peaceful  Overtures — 
The  Half-Breed's  Revenge — A  Battle — Reinforcements — Death  of  Sin- 
clair— Sublette  Wounded — Greenhorns — A  false  Alarm — Indian  Adroit- 
ness— A  Deserted  Fort — Incident  of  the  Blackfoot  Woman — Murder  of 
a  Party  by  Blackfeet,        -  -  -  •  --108 

CHAPTER    VII. 

The  March  to  the  Humboldt — Scarcity  of  Game — Terrible  Sufferings — 
The  Horrors  of  Thirst  and  Famine — Eating  Ants,  Crickets  and  Mules — 
Return  to  Snake  River — A  lucky  Discovery — A  Trout  Supper — The 
Country  of  the  Diggers — Some  Account  of  Them — Anecdote  of  Wyeth 
and  Meek — Comparison  of  Indian  Tribes — The  Blackfeet — The  Crows — 
The  Coast  Tribes  and  the  Mountain  Tribes — The  Columbia  River 
Indians — Tlieir  Habits,  Customs,  and  Dress — Indian  Commerce — The 
Indians  of  the  Plairs — Their  Dress,  Manners,  and  Wealth — The  Horses 
of  the  Plains — La  guage — The  Indian's  Moral  Nature — Hungry  and 
Hospit..ole  Sava  . — A  Trap  set  for  a  Rival — An  Ambush — Death  of 
Vanderburg — Sku-mish  with  Blackfeet — The  Woman  Interpreter  taken 
Prisoner — Bravery  of  her  Husband — Happy  Finale — Meek  Rescues  the 
"  Mountain  Lamb  " — Intense  Cold — Threatened  by  Famine — The  Den 
of  Grizzlys— Second  Daniels,         -  -  -  -  --119 


CONTENTS. 


XIU 


CHAPTER    VIII 


Pa«i, 


A  Visit  from  Blackfeet — Tlie  Green  River  Rendezvous — A  "  Powerful 
Drunk" — Mad  Wolf— A  Friendly  Warning— A  Trip  to  tlie  Salt  Lake 
Country — Meek  Joins  Jo.  Walker's  California  Expedition — Instinct  of 
the  Mule — On  the  Humboldt  River — Massacre  of  Diggers  at  Mary's 
River — Vain  Explorations — Crossing  the  Sierra  Nevadas — Hardships 
and  Sufferings — ITie  Sacramento  Valley — Delight  of  the  Trappers — 
Meeting  with  Spanish  Soldiers — A  Parley — Escorted  to  Monterey — A 
Hospitable  Reception — The  Native  Californians — Visit  to  the  Mohave 
Village — Meeting  with  Trapp  and  Jcrvais — Infamous  Conduct  at  the 
Moquis  Village — The  Return  March,         .  -  ,  -        .  141 

CHAPTER    IX. 

In  the  Camanche  Country — A  Surprise  and  a  Rapid  Movement — The 
Mule  Fort — A  Camanche  Charge — Sure  Aim — Another  Charge — More 
Dead  Indians — Woman's  Weapon,  the  Tongue — Fearful  Heat  and  Suf- 
ferings from  Thirst — The  Escape  by  Night — llie  South  Park — Death 
of  Guthrie — Meeting  with  Bonneville — Indignant  Reproaches,  -  -  154 

C  H  A  P  T  E  R    X  . 

Gossip  at  Rendezvous — Adventures  in  the  Crow  Country — Fitzpatrick 
Picked  by  the  Crows  and  Flies  from  Them — Honor  among  Thieves — 
Unfair  Treatment  of  Wyeth — Bonneville  Snubbed  at  Walla- Walla — 
He  Rejects  good  Counsel — Wyeth's  Tlireat,  and  its  Fulfillment — Divis- 
ion of  Territory,  -  -  -  -  -  -  -,-  ICO 


■-■■■-       "  •*  CHAPTER    XI. 

In  the  Blackfoot  Country — A  Visit  to  Wyeth's  Trappers — Sorry  Expe- 
riences— Condolence  and  its  EflTect — The  Visitors  become  Defenders — 
A  Battle  with  Fire  and  Sword — Fighting  for  Lite — The  Trappers'  Vic- 
tory— A  Trapping  Excursion — Meek  Plays  a  Trick  and  has  one  Played 
on  Him — A  Run  to  Camp — Taking  up  Traps — A  Blackfoot  Ambush — 
A  Running  Fire — A  lucky  Escape — Winter  Camp  on  the  Yellowstone — 
Interpretation  of  a  Dream — A  Buffalo  Hunt  and  a  Blackfoot  Surprise — 
Meek's  Mule  Story,  .-.----. 

CHAPTER    XII.    * 

Setting  up  as  a  Family  Man — First  Love — Cut  out  by  the  Looshway — 
Reward  of  Constancy — Beauty  of  Umentucken — Her  Dress,  Her  Horse 
and  Equipments — Anecdotes  of  the  Mountain  Lamb — Her  Quarrel  with 
The  Trapper — Capture  by  Crows — Her  Rescue — Meek  Avenges  an  In- 
sult— A  Row  in  Camp — Tlie  Female  Element — Death  of  Umentucken, 


166 


175 


XIV 


CONTENTS. 


Paoi. 


CHAPTER    XIII. 

Visitors  at  Rendezvous — Advent  of  Missionaries — "WTiat  Brought  Them — 
Bonneville's  account  of  the  Nez  Perces  and  Flatheads — An  Knthusiastic 
View  of  Their  Characters — Origin  of  some  of  Their  Religious  Observ- 
ances— An  Indian's  Idea  of  a  God — Material  Good  Desired — Mistake 
of  the  Missionaries — First  Sermon  in  the  Rocky  Mountains — Interrupted 
by  Buffaloes — Precept  and  Example — Dr.  Whitman's  Character — The 
Missionaries  Separate — Dr.  Whitman  Returns  to  the  States,    -  -  181 

CHAPTER    XIV. 

Meek  Falls  into  the  Hands  of  Crows — The  Story  as  He  tells  It — He  Packs 
Moccasins,  and  Bears  the  Jeers  of  the  Fair  Sex — Bridger's  Camp  Dis- 
covered and  the  Lie  Found  out — A  Desperate  Situation — Signaling  the 
Horse-Guard — A  Parley  with  Bridger — Successful  Strategy — Capture 
of  Little-Gun — Meek  Set  at  Liberty  with  a  New  Name — A  Fort  Be- 
sieged by  Bears — A  Lazy  Trapper — The  Decoy  of  the  Delawares — 
Winter  Amusements  —  The  Ishmaelite  of  the  Wilderness  —  March 
through  the  Crow  Country — Return  to  Green  River — Punishment  of  the 
Bannacks — Consolidation — An  Excursion — Intercepted  by  Crows — A 
Scattered  Camp — The  Escape,  -  -  -  -  -  189 

CHAPTER    XV. 

An  Express  from  Fitzpatrick — The  Approach  of  Missionaries  Announc- 
ed— The  Caravan  Welcomed  by  a  Party  of  Trapjiers — Noisy  Demonstra- 
tions— Curiosity  of  the  Indians — The  Missionary  Ladies — Preparations 
in  the  Indian  Villages — Reception  of  the  Missionaries  by  the  Nez  Perces 
and  Flatheads — Kind  Treatment  from  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company — 
The  Missionaries'  Land  of  Promise — Visit  to  Fort  Vancouver — Selection 
of  Missionary  Stations,        -  -  -  -  -  -        -  201 

CHAPTER    XVI. 
The  Den  of  Rattlesnakes — Tlie  Old  Frenchman — How  to  Keep  Snakes 
out  of  Bed— The  Prairie  Dog's  Tenants  at  Will— Fight  with  Blackfeet — 
Policy  of  War — A  Duel  Averted — A  Run-away  Bear — Meek's  Best  Bear 
Fight — Winter  Quarters  on  Powder  River — Robbing  Bonneville's  Men,  il4 

CHAPTER    XVII. 

A  Dissipated  Camp — A  Crow  Carousal — Picked  Crows — A  Fight  with 
Blackfeet— Manhead  Killed— Night  Visit  to  the  Blackfoot  Village— 
"  Cooning  a  River  " — Stanley  the  Indian  Painter — Desperate  Fight 
with  Blackfeetr— "  The  Trapper's  Last  Shot  "—War  and  Peace— In  the 
Wrong  Camp — To  Rendezvous  on  Wind  River — Mr.  Gray,  and  His 
Adventures  —  Massacre  of  Indian  Allies  —  Capt.  Stuart  Robbed  by 
Crow« — Newell's  Address  to  the  Chiefs,  .  -  .  _  221 


CONTENTS. 


XV 


Paoi. 


-  237 


CHAPTER    XVIII.     ,, 

/)cclinc  of  the  Fur  Trade— Wild  Scenes  at  Rendezvous— A  IMlssionarjr 
Party— Entertained  by  a  War  Dance— Meek  in  Armor— Deserted  by 
his  Indian  Spouse— The  Tursuit—Meek  abuses  a  Missionary  and  Kid- 
naps; his  Wife— Meek's  Black  Eyed  Daughter— Singing  for  ti  Biscuit- 
Trapping  Again— A  hot  March,  and  Fearful  Suffering  from  Tliirst — 
The  Old  Flathead  Woman— Water  at  Last, 

■      '  ■    ■  -■•      ■     •■  ■•'—■"/■ 
CHAPTER    XIX. 

A  Chat  about  Buffalo  Hunting— Buffalo  Horses— The  Start— The  Pur- 
suit—Tlie  Charge— Tumbles-  Horsemanship— The  Glory  of  Mountain 

Life How  a  Nez  Perce  Village  Hunts  Buffalo— Kit  Carson  and  the 

Frenchman  on  a  Run — Mountain  Manners,        ...  -  246 

CHAPTER    XX. 

The  Solitary  Trapper— A  Jest— Among  the  Nez  Perces— Their  Eagemesa 


to  be  Taught— Meek  is  Called  upon  to  Preach —He  modestly  Complies 
Asks  for  a  Wife  —  Polygamy  Defended  —  Meek  Gets  a  Wife— The 
Preacher's  Salary— Surprised  by  Blackfeet— Death  of  Allen  —The  Last 
Rendezvous — Anecdote  of  Shawnee  Jim — The  new  Wife  Missing — 
Meeting  with  Farnham— Cold  and  Famine— Succor  and  Food — Parties 
at  Fort  Crockett — Setting  up  in  Trade — How  Al.  Saved  His  Bacon — 
Bad  Times — War  upon  Horse  Thieves — In  Search  of  Adventures — 
Green  River  Canyon — Runninsj  Antelope — Gambling — Vain  Hunt  for 
Rendezvous — Reflections  and  Half-Resolves — The  last  Trapping  Expe- 
dition,        -  -  -  -  --  -  -        - 


251 


"  CHAPTER    XXI. 

A  new  Start  in  Life — Mountain-Men  for  Pioneers — Discovery  of  the  Co- 
lumbia River — What  Capt.  Gray  Did — What  Vancouver  Did — The 
United  States'  Claim  to  Oregon— The  Treaty  of  1818— Plans  for  Colon- 
izing Oregon — Yankee  Enterprise — Hall  .T.  Kelley — Ball  and  Tibbits — 
Execration  of  the  H.  B.  Company — First  Missionaries  to  the  Wallamet — 
Their  Reception— Three  Points  in  the  H.  B.  Co.  Policy— The  Political 
History  of  Oregon — Extracts  from  "  Thirty  Years  in  Congress  " — Ben- 
ton on  the  Oregon  Claims — The  Missionary  Wedge — Character  of  Dr. 
John  McLaughlin — Hospitalities  of  Fort  Vancouver — The  Mission  Re- 
inforced— Other  Settlers  in  the  Wallamet  Valley — IIow  they  Regarded 
the  Mission— The  California  Cattle  Company— Distribution  of  Settlers,  264 


CHAPTER    XXII. 

Westward  Ho ! — Opening  Wagon  Roads — Republicanism — Fat  Pork  for 
Preachers — Mission  Work  at  Waiilatpu 
lamet — Wagons  Left  at  Walla-Walla- 
2 


-Helen  Mar— Off  for  the  Wal- 
The  Dalles  Mission  —  Indian 


S^ 


XVI 


CONTENTS. 


Paoi. 


Prayers — The  Missionaries  and  the  Mountain-Men — The  Impious  Cana- 
dian— Doing  Penance — Down  the  Columbia — Trouble  with  Indians — 
Arrival  at  the  Wallamet — Hunjjer,  and  Dependeni'e  on  Fort  Vaneouvcr — 
Meeting  Old  Comrades — Setlliug  on  the  Tualatin  I'lains — A  disagreeable 
Winter — Taking  Claims — Who  furnished  the  Seed  Wheat,       -  -  279 


^•i,\ 


a 


CHAPTER    XXIII. 

Wealth  of  the  Methodist  Mission — Waste  of  Property — Influence  on  the 
Indians — What  the  Mission  Board  Did  lor  Oregon — A  Natural  Se- 
quence— Policy  of  the  Mission  regarding  Other  Settlers — Memorial  to 
Congress — Trying  Position  of  Dr.  McLaughlin — How  He  Directed  the 
Power  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company — Fear  of  Catholicism — The  Mis- 
sion Party  and  the  American  Party — llie  Story  of  Ewing  Young— A 
Historical  Character — Some  Opinions  of  the  Writer — Position  of  the 
Mountain-Men  in  Oregon,  ------ 


288 


CHAPTER    XXIV. 

Scarcity  of  Employment — Wilkes'  Exploring  Expedition — Meek  Employed 
as  Pilot — Interchange  of  Courtesies  at  Vancouver — Unpleasant  Re- 
minder— Exploring  the  Cowelitz — Wilkes'  Chronometer — Land  Expe- 
dition to  California — Meek  Discharged — Gleaning  Wheat — Fifty  Miles 
for  an  Axe — Visit  to  the  New  Mission — Praying  for  a  Cow — The  Great 
Event  of  the  Year— The  "Star  of  Oregon  "—Cargo  of  the  "Thomas 
Perkins" — Salvation  of  the  Colony,        ....  -  296 


- ■  CHAPTER    XXV.     *  ' 

The  Brooding  of  Events — The  Balance  of  Power — First  Cargo  for  the 
American  Market — Fourth  of  July — An  Indian  Agent  for  Oregon — 
Reception  of  Inmugrants — Indian  Agent  iij  Governor — Dr.  AVhitman 
Visits  Washington — The  "Ashburton  Treaty" — Emigration  from  Mis- 
souri— Discontent  of  the  Indians — Missionaries  Threatened — Mrs.  Whit- 
man leaves  Waiilatpu — Dr  White  Visits  the  Indians — A  Code  of  Laws 
for  the  Nez  Perces — Cayuses  avoid  an  Interview,  .  -  - 


304 


I'rl 

VI 

11 


_^  ,  C  H  A  P  T  E  R    X  X  V I . 

The  Plot  Thickens — Forms  of  Government  Discussed — The  Wolf  Associa- 
tion— Suspicions  of  the  Canadians — A  Committee  Appointed — Tlieir 
Report  Accepted — The  Die  Cast — Address  of  the  Canadians — Officers 
Elected — Meek  Elected  Sheriff — The  Provisional  Government — Notable 
Laws — Indian  Disturbancei!  in  the  Upper  Country — The  Agent  Leaves 
for  a  Visit — Mr.  Hines  and  Dr.  McLaughlin — Dorio  the  wicked  Half- 
Breed — Account  of  the  Indian  Troubles — Particulars  of  the  Indian  Con- 
ference— The  Missionaries  AVarned,        -----  316 


n 


CONTENTS. 


XYll 


CHAPTER    XXVII. 


■  ;  'I 


Paoi 


Arrival  of  the  Immigration  at  the  Dalles — Wagons  Abandoned — Condition 
of  tlie  People — Aid  from  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company — Perils  of  the 
Columbia — Wreck  of  a  Hoat— Wonderful  Eseajje — Trials  of  the  New 
Colonists  —  The  Generous  Savage  —  The  Harefoot  Lawyer — Meek's 
Pumpkin — Privation  of  the  Settlers — Going  Shopping — No  Mails — Ed- 
ucation and  Literary  Soeic^ties — Attemj)!  to  Manufacture  Ardent  Spirits — 
Dilemma  of  the  People— An  Appeal  to  Dr.  White— The  Sheriff  Destroys  ' 
tlic  Distillery — Anc<!dote  of  Dr.  White  and  Madam  Cooper  —  Meek 
Levies  on  Her  Whisky — Meek  and  "The  better  Part  of  the  Communi- 
ty "—First  Official  Aet  of  the  SherilT,        833 

CHAPTER    XXVIII. 

Excitement  about  Indians — Dr.  White's  Flogging  Law — Indian  Revenge — 
Raid  of  the  Klamaths — Massacre  of  Indians — Affray  at  the  Falls — 
Death  of  Cockstock — Death  of  LeHreton  and  Rogers — Meek's  Advice — 
Ilis  Policy  with  the  Indians — Meek  and  the  Agent — The  Borrowed 
Horse — Success  of  the  New  Government — Ambitious  Designs — Negroes 
and  Liquors  Interdicted — Taxation  Opposed — Defeat  of  the  Independent 
Party, -  -  -  -  347 


CHAPTER    XXIX. 

The  Oregon  City  Land-Claim — Enmity  of  the  Mission  to  Dr.  McLaugh- 
lin— His  Possessory  Rights — Attempts  at  a  Settlement — Mr,  Waller's 
Trifling — Double  Dealings  Extraordinary — Various  Propositions — Ric- 
ord's  Caveat — Tlie  Doctor's  Devotions  and  Inital  "'  / — A  Settlement 
Effected — The  Several  Parties — Uneasiness  at  Fort  Vancouver — Des- 
perate Characters — Dr.  McLaughlin  Asks  for  Protection — The  Situation,  355 

CHAPTER    XXX.  ^. 

ITie  American  Organization — Oath  of  Membership  Modified — Dr.  Mc- 
Laughlin Unites  with  the  Americans — Unwelcome  Visitors  at  the  Fort —  ' 
The  British  Government  Promise  Protection — Disagreeable  Results  of 
Espionage — The  English  Officers — Wonderful  Transformation — Tem- 
perance— Courts — Anecdote  of  Judge  Nesmith — Memorial  to  Congress — 
Ludicrous  Legislative  Proceedings — Audacity  Triumphant — Growth  of 
Improvements — New  Towns — Early  Days  of  Portland — An  Indian  Ca^  i 
rousal — Meek  "Settles  the  Indians" — Reader's  Query,  and  Answer — 
The  Immigration  of  1845 — The  Road-Hunters — Hunger, and  Peril— rA 
Last  Request — Succor  at  the  Last  Moment — A  Reason  for  Patriotism,     364 


CHAPTER    XXXI. 
Difficulty  of  Collecting  Taxes — A  Ponderous  Currency — Dr.  McLaughlin's 
Ox — An  Exciting  Year — Abrogation  of  the  Treaty — The   Boundary 


L 
il 


xvin 


C0NTFNT3. 


Paqi. 


Qiii*tion — Fifty-Four-Forty  or  Fight — Caution  of  the  (lovornmcnt — 
War  VessoU  in  the  Coliiuibia — Lo«»  of  tin;  Sliarit — Mock  Roccivi's  a 
Saluti'— Sclii'iU'lc  Arrt'sti'd — 'I'lie  Color-Stand  of  tlitr  Sliarlc — Tin;  Agony 
OviT — 'i'l'rnis  of  I  lie  New  Treaty  not  Aj^ri'i'alile  to  tho  Orogoniuns — 
Disappointment  of  the  I Iiidsou's  Bay  Company,     -  -  .        -377 


CHAPTER    XXXII. 

Colonial  Gossip — The  Orep;on  Sptsctntor — Overland  Mail  Speeial — Theat- 
[  rieals  on  Board  the  Modeste — Literature  of  the  Spectator — "The  Ad- 
ventures of  a  Columbia  River  Salmon" — History  of  the  Immij^ration  of 
1811! — ()])ei>inij  of  the  Southern  Route — Traj>ie  Fate  of  the  California 
Immigrants— Hardships  of  the  Oregon  Immij^rants — The  Cause—  Tardy 
Relief — Disappointment  of  the  Colony — The  Road-hunters  Blamed — 
Feuds  in  Consetpience — Lef^islature  for  184G — Meek  and  Newell  Mem- 
bers— The  Liquor  Bill — Divorce  Acts,        -  .  .  .        - 


S82 


CHAPTER    XXXIII.     i     .. .     ,,     .,.,,, 

The  Bcginninff  of  Orefijon  Commerce — The  Oregon  Colony  second  only  to 
that  of  the  Mayflower — 'Ihe  Foundations  of  a  New  State — Celebrating 
the  Fourth  of  July — Visit  to  the  Ship  Brutus — An  Indignity  Resented 

,  with  a  Twelve-Pounder — Dr.  McLaughlin  Interferes — Re-elecaon  of 
Meek — Large  Immigration — Letter  from  Thomas  H.  Benton — Affray 
between  Immigrants  and  Indians  at  tho  Dalles — The  Governor's  Dele- 
gate to  Congress — Manner  of  his  E(juipmcnt — Stranded  at  San  Juan — 
Meeting  of  the  Legislature — FalUng  of  the  Thunderbolt,  -  -391 

•  •  CHAPTER    XXXIV. 

The  Up-Country  Indians — Causes  of  Their  Discpiiet — Their  Opinion  of  the 
Americans — Their  FeclingH  toward  Dr.  Whitman — Acts  of  Violence — 
Influence  of  th«'  Catholic  Missionaries — What  Provoked  the  Massacre — 
"Jo  Lewis  the  Half-Breed — The  Fatal  Test — Sickness  Among  the  Emi- 
grants— Dr.  Whitman's  Family — Persons  at  the  Mission  and  Mill — 
Niglit  Visit  to  the  Umatilla — The  Warning  of  Stickas  and  His  Family — 
The  Death  Song — Meeting  with  Brouillet — News  of  the  Massacre — Mr. 
Spalding's  Night  Journeys,         »  .  -  .  «  -400 

CHAPTER    XXXV. 

The  Tragedy  at  "Waiilatpu — Dr.  Whitman's  Arrival  at  Home — The  Com- 
■  mcricement  of  the  Massacre — Horrors  of  the  Attack — Shooting  of  Mrs. 
•    Wliitman — Treachery  of  a  Chief — Sufferings  of  the  Children — The  Two 

Compassionate  Indi.ans — Escape  of  Mr.  Osborne  and  Family — Escape 
'  and  Fate  of  Mr.  Hall — Cruel  Treatment  of  Fugitives — Sufferings  of  Mr. 

Osborne's  Family — Fears  of  Mcbean— 'Kindness  of  Stickas,      -  -  410 


n: 


CONTENTS. 


XIX 


C  11  A  P  T  K  R     XXXVI. 


PAfllt 


Horrors  of  the  Waiilntpii  Massacre — Exemption  ot  the  Catholics — Charges 
of  the  Protestants — Natural  Suspicions — Furtlicr  Particulars  of  the  Mus- 
gn(Te — Cnu'ity  to  the  Children — Fate  of  the  Youn}?  Women — Miss 
Buli-e  airl  the  Priests — Lapwai  Mission — Arrival  of  Mr.  Canilielil — An 
Indian  Trait — Heroism  of  Mrs.  Spalding — Appeal  to  the  Chiefs — Arrival 
of  the  News — Lupwai  Plundered — Treachery  of  Joseph — Arrival  of  Mr. 
Spalding; — Detained  as  Hostages — Uansomed  hy  the  H.  U.  Company — 
Tlie  "Hl(M)d  of  the  Martyrs" — Country  Abandoned  to  the  Indians — 
Subsequent  liuturn  of  Mr.  Spalding  to  the  Ncz  Perces,  -  -  -  419 

CHAPTER    XXXVII. 

The  Call  to  Arms — Meiitinj^s  and  Speeches — Ways  and  Means  of  De- 
fence— The  first  llet^iment  of  Oregon  Riflemen — Messenger  to  the  (lov- 
crnor  of  California — ileek  Chosen  Messenger  to  the  President  of  the 
United  States — He  Phk-cimIs  to  the  Dalles — 'Hie  Army  Marches  to 
Waiilatpu — A  Skirmish  with  the  Des  Chutes- -Burial  of  the  Victims — 
Meek  Escorted  to  the  Ulue  Mountains,  -----  428 


■  ■<l'i*-> 


yH 


CHAPTER     XXXVIII. 

Meek's  Party — Precautions  against  Indians — Meeting  with  Bannacks — 
White  Lies — Fort  Hall — Deep  Snow.s — Horses  Abandoned — 'llio  Moun- 
tain Spirit  Returning  —  Meeting  with  Peg-Leg  Smith — A  Mountain 
Revel — Meeting  with  An  Old  Leader — Reception  at  Fort  Laramie — 
Passing  the  Siou.x  Village — Courtesy  of  a  French  Trader — Reflections 
on  Nearing  the  Settlements — Resolve  to  Remain  JoeMdek — Reception 
at  St.  Joseph — "Tlie  Quickest  Trip  Yet" — Arrival  at  St.  Louis — Meek  X' 
as  Steamboat  Runner — Interview  with  the  Stage  Agent  at  Wheeling — 
Astonishing  the  Natives — The  Puzzled  Conductor — Arrival  at  Wash- 
ington,    ---------  434 

CHAPTER    XXXIX. 

Meek  Dines  at  Coleman's — A  Sensation — An  Amusing  Scene — Recog- 
nized by  Senator  Underwood — Visit  to  the  President — Cordial  Recep- 
tion by  the  Family  of  Polk — Some  Doubts  of  Himself — Rapid  Recovery 
of  Self-Possession — Action  of  the  Friends  of  Oregon — The  Two  Oregon 
Representatives — Tlie  Oregon  Bill  in  the  Senate — Benton's  Speech —  y 
Meek's  Successful  Debut  in  Society — Curiosity  of  Ladies — Kit  Carson 
and  the  "  Contingent  Fund  " — Meek's  Remarkable  Popularity — Invited 
to  Baltimore  by  the  City  Council — Er  ,rts  the  President — Visit  to 
Lowell — Tlic  Factory  Girls — Some  Natural  Regrets — Kindness  of  Mrs. 
Polk  and  Mrs.  Walker — Commodore  Wilkes — Oregon  Lies — Getting 
Franked — Champagne  Supj  ■  .'s,  -  .  .  .  .  447 


i\ 


I^pfflt 


m- 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER    XL 


Paob, 


Mr.  Tliornton  <as  Representative  of  Oregon — The  Territorial  Bill — How 
Obnoxious  to  the  South — The  Friends  and  Enemies  of"  the  Bill — The 
Land  Bill — The  Last  Chance — Scene  between  Butler  and  Benton — 
Speech  of  Senator  Foote — A  Tedious  Night — The  Territorial  Bill  Pay- 
ed—Failure of  the  Land  Bill— What  Became  of  It,  -  -        -  463 

CHAPTER    XLI. 

Meek  Appointed  U.  S.  Marshal  for  Oregon — "Home  Sweet  Home" — Pay 
of  the  Delegates  —  The  Lion's  Share  —  Meek's  Interview  with  Gov. 
Lane — Bujing  out  a  Peddler — The  Escort  o*'  Riflemen — 'Ilie  Start  from 
St.  Louis,  and  the  Route — Meeting  Price's  Army — An  Adventure  and 
a  Pleasant  Surprise — Leaving  the  Wagons — Desertion  of  Soldiers — 
Drought^ — The  Trick  of  the  Yumas— Demoralization  of  the  Train — 
Rumors  of  Gold — Gen.  Lane's  Coffee — The  Writer's  Reflection — The 
Party  on  Foot — Extreme  Sufferings — Arrival  at  William's  Ranch — 
Speculation  in  Silks  and  Jack-Knives — Miners  at  Los  Angelos — Ore- 
gonians  at  San  Francisco — Nat  Lane  and  Meek  Take  the  Gold  Fever — 
Meek's  Investment — The  Governor  and  Marshal  Quarrel  —  Pranks 
with  a  Jew — A  Salute — Arrival  in  Oregon  City,  -  -  -  459 


CHAPTER    XLII. 

If  This  Were  a  Novel  — The  Dropped  Tlireads  of  Our  Story  — Gov. 
Lane's  Proclamation — One  Day  under  Polk — Condition  of  Oregon — 
The  Honolulu  and  Her  Captain — The  Gold  Excitement — Deserted  Har- 
vest Fields  —  Sudden  Prosperity  of  Oregon  —  Gradual  Relapse,  and 
the  Cause — Tlie  Three  Parties — Resignation  of  Dr.  McLaughlin — His 
Wish  to  Become  an  American  Citizen — Complications  of  His  Case — Mr. 
Thurston,  Delegate  to  Congress  —  The  Story  of  the  Donation  Act — 
Death  of  the  Doctor,      .---... 


482 


I  ! 
It  > 
U  I 

i 


CHAPTER    XLIII. 

Lane's  Course  with  the  Cayuge  Indians — Magnanimity  of  the  Spvages — 
Rebuke  to  Their  Captors — Their  Statements  to  Meek — Tlie  Puzzle  of 
Indian  Ethics  —  Incidents  of  the  Trial  and  Execution — State  of  the 
Upper  Country  for  A  Term  of  Years — How  Meek  Was  Received  in  Ore- 
gon— His  Incurable  Waggishness — Scene  in  a  Court-Room — Contempt 
of  Court — Judge  Nelson  and  the  Carpenters — Two  Hundred  Lies — An 
Excursion  by  the  Oregon  Court — Indians  Tried  for  Mui"der — Proceed- 
ings of  a  Jury — Sentence  and  Execution  of  the  Indians — The  Chiefs 
Wife — Cost  of  Proceedings— Lane's  Career  in  Oregon — Gov.  Davis, 


493 


CONTENTS.     '- 


XXI 


CHAPTER    XLIV. 


Paqi. 


Meek  as  TJ.  S.  Marshal— The  Captain  of  the  Melvin— The  British  Smug- 
gler—Returning a  Compliment— "  Barly  f^nougli  for  the  Officers  of  the 
Court"— Misused  Confidence— Indian  Disturbances— The  Indian  War  ' 
of  1855-6— Gen  Wool  and  Gov.  Curry— Olficers  of  the  War— Ilowthe 
Volunteers  Fared— !Meek  as  a  A''olunteer— Feasting  and  Fun—"  Mark- 
ing Time"— End  of  Mock's  Public  Career— His  Stern  Loyalty  in  Con- 
trast with  Lane's  Disloyalty — His  Present  Life — Treatment  of  a  "Preach- 
er "—Hope  of  the  Future,  -  -  -  -  -  -503 


CHAPTER    XL  V. 

The  Northern  Pacific  Railroad— WESTERN  OREGON— The  Walla- 
met  River  and  Valley — The  Falls  of  the  Wallaniet — The  Umpqua  Val- 
ley— The  Rogue  River  Valley — The  Coast  Country — The  Dairy  Region 
of  the  Pacific  Coast — Varieties  of  Soil — Climate  and  Temperature — Pro- 
ductions and  Natural  Resources  —  Fruit  Growing — Native  Grasses — 
Shrubbery — Price  of  Lands — Sheep  Raising  and  Woolen  Goods — Trees 
and  Lumbering— Turpentine,  Tar,  and  Rosin — Fish  and  Fisheries — 
Game — Salt — Coal — Iron — Lead — Copper — Gold  and  Silver — Grain — 
Flax  and  Hemp— Tobacco— Hops— Honey— EASTERN  OREGON— 
Impressions  of  Early  Emigrants — Aspectof  the  Coimtry — Waste  Lands — 
Sage  Deserts — Valleys  and  Plains — The  Blue  Mountains — Soil  and  Pro- 
ductions— The  Klamaili  D.isin — Sprague's  River  Valley — Goose  Lake 
V^alley — Surprise  Vailcy — Oases  in  the  Desert — The  I)es  Chutes,  John 
Dny,  Umntilla,  Gramie  Ronde,  and  Powder  Rivers  and  Valleys — 
Climaie  and  Resources  of  Eastern  Oregon  —  Stock-Ranches — Fruit 
Orchards — Vineyards — Corn  and  Sorghum — Flix  and  Wool — Mineral 
Wealth — Ai'ca  and  Population  of  Oregon,  -  -  -  .- 


•     t 


ui- 


513 


C  H  A  P  T  E  R    X  L  V I . 

WASHINGTON  TERRITORY— Area  and  Population— Tlie  Cowelitz 
River — The  Cascade  Range — Mount  Olympus — The  Cowelitz  Prairie — 
The  Future  of  Washington — The  Strait  of  San  Juan  De  Fuca — Ad- 
miralty Inlet — Hood's  Canal — Puget  Sound — Its  Advantages  as  a 
Great  Naval  Depot — Material  for  Ship  Building — Ample  Room  and 
kSafe  Anchorage — The  Lumbering  Interests — Large  Saw  Mills — Im- 
mense Forests — Magnificent  Trees — Coal  Mines — Fisheries — The  Coast 
Counties — Shoal  Water  Bay — Cape  Hancock — Markets  for  Agricultural 
Products — A  Great  Maritime  City  to  (Jrow  : :p  at  the  Terminus  of  the 
Northern  Pacific  Railroad — Southern  and  Eastern  Washington — Tlie 
Cowelitz,  Lewis,  and  Lake  River  Valleys — Excellent  Fruit,  Grain,  and 
Dairy  Regions— The  Walla- AValla  Valley 


554 


mrrrr 


s 


i^ 


xxu 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER    X  L  y 1 1 . 

THE  COLUMBIA  RIVER— Its  Scenery,  Extent,  and  Resources— Point 
Adams — Fort  Stevens — The  Bar — Astoria — Flapping  of  the  Lower  Co- 
linnbia — Monticello — St.  Helen — Junction  witli  tlie  WuHaniet — Sauvies 
Island — Vancouver — The  Cascade  Range  —  The  Heart  of  the  Moun- 
tains— Railroad  Portage — Jlagnificcnt  Scenery — The  Cascades — Castio 
Rock  —  Indian  Tradition  —  Stupendous  Bluffs  —  Precijiitous  Clitfs — 
Grandeur  of  the  Mountains — A  Terrible  Passage — Wind  Mountain — 
Hood  River — Mt.  Hood — Mt.  Adams — The  Dalles  of  the  Columbia — 
Wildness  of  tlio  Scenery — Dalles  City — Second  Railroad  Portage — 
Celilo — Immense  Warohouses — The  Rapids— The  Des  Clmtes  River — 
Columbus  —  Umatilla—  Wallula—  The  AValla-Walla  River  —  Walla- 
Walla  City — White  Bluffs— Colville — Northern.  Branches  of  the  Colum- 
bia— A  Region  of  Mineral  and  Agricultural  Wealth — Lewiston,  Idaho — 
The  Oregon  Steam  Navigation  Company — Scenery  of  Snake  River — 
The  American  Falls — Tributaries  of  Snake  River — I'ich  ^Mineral  Dis- 
tricts— Fertile  Valleys,  and  Excellent  Timber — Changing  Aspect  of  the 
Country — Facilities  for  Emigrants,  .  -  .  -  . 


5G4 


i 


CHAPTER  XL  VIII. 
MONTANA  TERRITORY— F:  ,t  Discovery  of  Gold— Extract  from  the 
Report  of  Gov.  Stevens — The  Viilleys  of  the  Cour  d'Alene  and  Spokane — 
The  Cour  d'Alene  Prairie— The  Bitter  Root  Valley— Hell  Gate  Pass- 
Deer  Lodge  Prairie— The  Little  Blackfoot— Flint  Creek— The  Hell 
Gate  River — Flathead  Lake — Clarke's  Fork — Hot  Sj)ring  Creek — 
Pond  d'  Oreille  Lake — Estimates  of  the  Areas  of  Arable  Land — A 
Beautiful  Coimtry — Agricultural  Advantages — The  Climate — The  Fa- 
vorite AVintering  Grounds  of  the  Fur  Hunters — Mineral  and  Lumbering 
Resources,  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -582 


CHAPTER    X  L  I  X . 

General  Remarks  on  the  North-west — Varietie?.  of  Climate  and  Temperature 
— The  Mild  Climate  of  the  Rocky  IMountains  in  Montana — Captain  Mul- 
lan's  Theory  Respecting  li, — The  Isochimcnal  Lino  Across  the  Conti- 
nent— Reclamation  of  Dry  Lands  by  Iriigation — Productiveness  of  the 
Soil— Gigantic  Trees  and  Ferns — Unlailing  Harvests — The  Foot-IIills 
of  the  Mountains — ^feadows  and  Uplands — Elements  of  the  Grand  and 
Wonderful — The  Cascade  Mountains — -Their  iSolitary  Wonders — Awful 
Chasms — Description  of  a  Mountain  Lake — Unequalled  Scenery — Com- 
mercial Condition  and  Advantages — Need  of  Capital  and  Railroads — 
Probable  Railroad  Routes — The  Oregon  Central  Railroad — Proposed 
Branch  from  the  Union  Pacific  Railroad — The  Northern  Pacific  Ilail- 

■     roud,        --..--... 


689 


PREFATORY   CHAPTER. 


l^ 


m 


mi 


Ax  Account  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  Interco'juse  with  Tnr 
Indians  ok  the  Nokth-West  Coast;  with  a  Sketch  of  the  Differ- 
ent Amk.iican  Fuk  Companies,  \nd  theik  Dealings  with  the 
Tkibes  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.    .  -     ..         ,  ■ 


5G4 


582 


589 


In  the  year  1818,  Mr.  Prevost,  acting  for  the  United  States,  received  Astoria 
back  from  the  British,  who  had  taken  possession,  as  narrated  by  Mr.  Irving, 
four  years  previous.  The  restoration  took  phice  in  conformity  with  the  treaty 
of  Glient,  by  which  those  places  captured  during  the  war  were  restored  to  their 
original  possessors.  Mr.  Astor  stood  ready  at  that  time  to  renew  his  enterprise 
on  the  Columl)ia  River,  had  Congress  been  disposed  to  grant  him  the  necessary 
l)rotection  which  the  undertaking  required.  Faihng  to  secure  this,  when  the 
United  States  sloop  of  war  Ontario  sailed  away  from  Astoria,  after  having 
taken  formal  possession  of  that  place  for  our  Government,  the  country  was  left  to 
the  occupancy,  (scarcely  a  joint-occupancy,  since  tliere  were  then  no  Americans 
here,)  of  the  Britisli  traders.  Ailer  the  war,  and  while  negotiations  were 
going  on  between  Great  Britain  and  the  United  States,  the  fort  at  Astoria  had 
remained  in  possession  of  the  North- West  Company,  as  their  principal  establish- 
ment west  of  the  mountains.  It  had  been  considerably  enlarged  since  it  had 
come  into  their  possession,  and  was  furnished  with  artillery  enough  to  have 
frightened  into  friendship  a  much  more  warlike  people  than  the  subjects  of  old 
king  Comcomly ;  who,  it  will  be  remembered,  was  not  at  first  very  well  disposed 
towards  the  "  King  George  men,"  having  learned  to  look  upon  the  "  Boston 
men  "  as  his  friends  in  his  earliest  intercourse  with  the  whites.  At  this  time 
Astoria,  or  Fort  George,  as  the  British  traders  called  it,  contained  sixty-tive 
inmates,  twenty-three  of  whom  were  whites,  and  the  remainder  Candian  half- 
breeds  and  Sitndwich  Islanders.  Besides  this  number  of  men,  there  were  a  few 
women,  the  native  wives  of  tlie  men,  and  their  half-breed  offspring.  The  situ- 
ation of  Astoria,  however,  was  not  favorable,  being  new  the  sea  coast,  and  not 
surrounded  with  good  farming  lands  such  as  were  required  for  the  furnishing 
of  provisions  to  the  fort.  Tlierefore,  when  in  1821  it  was  destroyed  by  fire,  it 
was  only  in  part  rebuilt,  but  a  lietter  and  more  convenient  location  for  the  head- 
(juarters  of  the  North-West  Company  was  sought  for  in  the  int'in-ior. 

About  this  time  a  quarrel  of  long  stan<ling  between  the;  Hudson's  Bay  and 
NorUi-West  Companies  euliniuated  in  a  battle  between  their  men  in  the  Red 


ppipr 


24 


FOIIT   VANCOUVER. 


!-.Wi| 


River  country,  resulting  in  a  considerable  loss  of  life  and  property.  Tliis  affair 
drew  the  attention  of  the  Government  at  home ;  the  rights  of  the  rival  (;om- 
panies  were  examined  into,  the  mediation  of  the  Ministry  secured,  and  a  com- 
promise effected,  by  which  the  North-West  Company,  which  had  succeeded  in 
disi)ossessing  the  Pacific  Fur  Company  under  Mr.  Astor,  was  merged  into  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company,  whose  name  and  fame  are  so  familiar  to  all  the  early 
settlers  of  Oregon. 

At  the  same  time.  Parliament  passed  an  act  by  which  the  hands  of  the  con- 
solidated company  were  much  strengenthed,  and  the  peace  and  security  of  all 
persons  greatly  insured;  but  which  became  subsequently,  in  the  joint  occupancy 
of  the  country,  a  cause  of  offence  to  the  American  citizens,  as  w?  shall  see 
hereafter.  This  act  allowed  the  commissioning  of  Justices  of  the  Peace  ia  all 
the  territories  not  belonging  to  the  United  States,  nor  already  subject  to  grants. 
These  justices  were  to  execute  and  enforce  the  laws  and  decisions  of  the  com-ts 
of  Upjicr  Canada ;  to  take  evidence,  and  commit  and  send  to  Canada  for  trial 
the  guilty ;  and  even  in  some  cases,  to  hold  courts  themselves  for  the  trial  of 
criminal  offences  and  misdemeanors  not  punishable  with  death,  or  of  civil  causes 
in  which  the  amount  at  issue  sl'oulc  not  exceed  two  hundred  pounds. 

Tlius  in  1824,  the  North- West  Company,  whose  perfidy  had  occasioned  such 
loss  and  mortification  to  the  enterprising  New  York  merchant,  became  itself  a 
thing  of  the  past,  and  a  new  rule  began  in  the  region  west  of  the  llocky  Moun- 
tains. Tlie  old  fort  at  Astoria  having  been  only  so  far  rebuilt  as  to  answer  the 
needs  of  the  hour,  after  due  consideration,  a  site  for  head-ijuarters  was  selected 
about  one  hundred  miles  from  the  sea,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Wallamet  Kiver, 
though  opposite  to  it.  Three  considerations  went  to  make  up  the  eligibility  of 
the  point  selected.  First,  it  was  desirable,  even  necessary,  to  settle  upon  good 
agricultural  lands,  where  the  Company's  provisions  could  be  raised  by  the  Com- 
pany's servants.  Second,  it  was  important  that  the  spot  chosen  should  be  upon 
waters  navigable  for  the  Company's  vessels,  or  upon  tide-water.  Lastly,  and 
not  leastly,  the  Company  had  an  eye  to  the  boundary  question  between  Great 
Britain  and  the  United  States ;  and  believing  that  the  end  of  the  controversy 
ivould  probably  be  to  make  the  Columbia  River  the  northern  limit  of  the  United 
States  territory,  a  spot  on  the  northern  bank  of  that  river  was  considered  a 
jood  point  for  their  fort,  and  possible  future  city. 

llie  site  chosen  by  the  North-West  Company  in  1821,  for  their  new  fort, 
combined  all  these  advantages,  and  the  further  one  of  having  been  already 
commenced  and  named.  Fort  Vancouver  became  at  once  on  the  accession  of 
the  Hudson's  B.iy  Conqiany,  the  metropolis  of  the  northwest  coast,  the  center 
of  the  fur  trade,  and  the  seat  of  government  for  that  immense  territory,  over 
■which  roamed  the  hunters  and  trappers  in  the  employ  of  that  powerful  corpo- 
ration. Tliis  post  was  situated  on  the  edge  of  a  beautiful  sloping  plain  on  the 
northern  bank  of  the  Columbia,  about  six  miles  above  the  upper  mouth  of  the 
Wallamet.  At  this  point  the  Columbia  spreads  to  a  great  width,  and  is  divided 
on  the  south  side  into  bayous  by  long  snndy  islands,  covered  with  oak,  ash,  and 
cotton-wood  trees,  making  the  noble  river  more  attractive  still  by  adding  the 
charm  of  curiosity  concerning  its  actual  breadth  to  its  natural  and  ordinary 


DKFENCES   AND   IMPR0VEMP:NTS. 


26 


Tliis  iiffair 
rival  eom- 
and  a  cotn- 
icceeded  in 
;ed  into  the 
.11  the  early 

of  the  con- 
urity  of  all 
t  occupancy 
shall  see 
L^eace  in  all 
•t  to  grants, 
the  courts 
ida  for  trial 
the  trial  of 
civil  causes 

3. 

sioned  such 
une  itself  a 
Dcky  Moun- 

answer  the 
fas  selected 
miet  River, 

igibility  of 
i  upon  good 
)y  the  Com- 
tild  be  upon 
Lastly,  and 
iveen  Great 
controversy 
'  the  United 
onsidered  a 

r  new  fort, 
en  already 
iccession  of 
,  the  center 
'ritory,  over 
erful  corpo- 
)lain  on  the 
outh  of  the 
il  is  divided 
ik,  ash,  and 
adding  the 
id  ordinary 


magnificence.  Back  of  the  fort  the  land  rose  gently,  covered  with  forests  of  fir; 
and  away  to  the  east  swelled  the  tbot-hills  of  the  Cascade  range,  then  the  moun- 
tains themselves,  draped  in  filmy  azure,  and  over-topped  live  thousand  leet  by 
the  snowy  cone  of  Mt.  Hood. 

In  this  lonely  situation  grew  up,  with  the  dispatch  which  characterized  the 
acts  oi"  the  Company,  a  fort  in  most  respects  similar  to  the  original  one  at 
Astoria.  It  was  not,  however,  thought  necessary  to  make  so  great  a  disjilay  of 
artillery  as  had  served  to  keep  in  order  the  subjects  of  Comcouily.  A  stockade 
enclosed  a  space  about  eight  hundred  feet  long  by  five  hundred  broad,  having 
a  bastion  at  one  corner,  where  were  mounted  three  guns,  while  two  eighteen 
pounders  and  two  swivels  were  planted  in  front  of  the  residence  of  the  (Jov- 
ernor  and  chief  factors.  These  commanded  the  main  entrance  to  the  fort, 
besides  which  there  were  two  other  gates  in  front,  and  another  in  the  rear. 
Military  precision  was  observed  in  the  precautions  taken  against  surprises,  as 
well  as  in  all  the  rules  of  the  place.  The  gates  were  opened  and  closed  at 
certain  hours,  and  were  always  guarded.  No  large  number  of  Indians  were 
permitted  within  the  enclosure  at  the  same  time,  and  every  employee  at  the  fort 
knew  and  performed  his  duty  with  punctuality. 

The  buildings  within  the  stockade  were  the  Governor's  and  chief  factors' 
residences,  stores,  offices,  work-shops,  magazines,  warehouses,  &c. 

Year  by  year,  up  to  1835  or  '40,  improvements  continued  t  go  on  in  and 
about  the  fort,  the  chief  of  which  was  the  cultivation  of  the  largo  farm  and 
garden  outside  the  enclosure,  and  the  erection  of  a  hospital  building,  large  barns, 
servants'  houses,  and  a  boat-house,  all  outside  of  the  Ibrt ;  so  that  at  the  period 
when  the  ('olumbia  River  was  a  romance  and  a  mystery  to  the  people  of  the 
United  States,  quite  a  flourishing  and  beautiful  vi"age  adorned  its  northern 
shore,  and  that  too  erected  and  sustained  by  the  enemies  of  American  enter- 
prise on  soil  commonly  believed  to  belong  to  the  United  States :  fair  foes  the 
author  firmly  believes  them  to  have  been  in  those  days,  yet  foes  nevertheless. 

The  system  on  which  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  conducted  its  business  was 
the  result  of  long  experience,  and  was  admirable  for  its  method  and  its  justice  also. 
When  a  ycnng  man  entered  its  service  as  a  clerk,  his  wages  were  small  for  sev- 
eral years,  increasing  only  as  his  ability  and  good  conduct  entitled  him  to  advance- 
ment. When  his  salary  had  reached  one  hundred  pounds  sterling  he  became 
eligible  to  a  chlef-tradership  as  a  partner  in  the  concern,  from  which  position 
he  was  promoted  to  the  rank  of  a  chief  factor.  No  important  business  was 
ever  intrusted  to  an  inexperienced  person,  a  policy  which  almost  certainly  pre- 
vented any  serious  errors.  A  regular  tariff  was  established  on  the  Company's 
goods,  comprising  all  the  articles  used  in  their  trade  with  the  Indians ;  nor  was 
the  quality  of  their  goods  ever  allowed  to  deteriorate.  A  price  was  also  fixed 
upon  furs  according  to  their  market  value,  and  an  Indian  knowing  this,  knew 
exactly  what  he  could  purchase.  No  bai-tcring  was  allowed.  Wlun  skins 
were  offered  for  sale  at  the  fort  they  wei'e  handed  to  the  clerk  through  a  win- 
dow like  a  post-office  delivery-window,  and  their  value  in  the  article  desired, 
returned  through  the  same  aperture.  All  these  regulations  were  of  the  high- 
est importance  to  the  good  order,  safety,  and  profit  of  the  Company.     The  con- 


mi 

mm 


i 


26 


INTOXICATING    LIQUORS. 


■•Jl 


|::^ 


fidence  of  the  Indians  was  pure  to  be  pained  by  the  constancy  and  good  faith 
ahvuys  observed  toward  them,  and  the  Company  obtained  thereby  numerous 
and  poweWul  allies  in  nearly  all  the  tribes. 

As  soon  as  it  was  possible  to  make  the  ehann;e,  the  Indians  were  denied  the 
use  of  intoxicating  drinks,  the  appetite  for  which  had  early  been  introduced 
among  them  by  coasting  vessels,  and  even  continued  by  the  Pacific  Fur  Com- 
pany at  Astoria.  It  would  have  been  dangerous  to  have  suddenly  deprived 
them  of  the  coveted  stimulus  ;  therefore  the  practice  must  be  discontinued  by 
many  wise  arts  and  devices.  A  public  notice  was  given  that  the  sale  of  it 
would  be  stopped,  and  the  reasons  for  this  prohibition  explained  to  the  Indians. 
Still,  not  to  come  into  direct  conflict  with  their  appetites,  a  little  was  sold  to 
the  chiel's,  now  and  then,  by  the  clerks,  who  affected  to  be  running  the  greatest 
risks  in  violating  the  order  of  the  company.  The  strictest  secrecy  was  enjoined 
on  the  lucky  chief  who,  by  the  friendship  of  some  ander-clcrk,  was  enabled  to 
smuggle  off  a  bottle  under  his  blanket.  But  the  canning  clerk  had  generally 
managed  to  get  his  "  good  friend  "  into  a  state  so  cleverly  between  drunk  and 
sober,  before  he  entrusted  him  with  the  precious  bottle,  that  he  was  sure  to 
bi'tray  himself  Leaving  the  shop  with  a  mien  ven  more  erect  than  usual, 
with  a  gait  affected  in  its  majesty,  and  his  blaincet  tightened  around  him  to 
conceal  his  secret  treasure,  the  chuckling  chief  would  start  to  cross  the  grounds 
within  the  fort.  If  he  was  a  new  customer,  he  was  once  or  twice  permitted  to 
play  his  little  game  with  the  obliging  clerk  whose  particular  friend  he  was,  and 
to  escape  detection. 

But  by-and-by,  when  the  officers  had  seen  the  ofTence  repeated  more  than 
once  from  their  purposely  contrived  posts  of  observation,  one  of  them  would 
skillfully  chance  to  intercept  the  guilty  chief  at  whose  comical  endeavors  to 
appear  sober  he  was  inwardly  laughing,  and  charge  him  with  being  intoxicated. 
Wresting  away  the  tightened  blanket,  the  bottle  appeared  as  evidence  that 
could  not  be  controverted,  of  the  u;:plicity  of  the  Indian  and  the  unfaithfulness 
of  the  clerk,  whose  name  was  instantly  demanded,  that  he  might  be  properly 
punished.  AVhen  the  chief  again  visited  the  fort,  his  particular  friend  met  him 
with  a  sorrowful  countenance,  reproaching  him  for  having  been  the  cause  of 
his  disgrace  and  loss.  This  reproach  was  the  surest  means  of  preventing  an- 
other demand  for  rum,  the  Indian  being  too  magnanimous,  probably,  to  wish  to 
get  his  friend  into  trouble ;  while  the  clerk  affected  to  fear  the  consequences 
too  much  to  be  induced  to  take  the  risk  another  time.  Thus  by  kind  and  care- 
ful means  the  traffic  in  liqi-ors  was  at  length  broken  up,  which  otherwise  would 
have  ruined  both  Indian  and  trader. 

To  the  company's  servants  licpior  was  sold  or  allowed  at  certain  times :  to 
those  on  the  sea-board,  one  half-pint  two  or  three  times  a  year,  to  be  used  as 
medicine, — not  that  it  was  always  needed  or  used  for  this  purpose,  but  too  strict 
inquiry  into  its  use  was  wisely  avoided,— and  for  this  the  company  demanded 
pay.  To  their  servants  in  the  interior  no  Itquor  was  sold,  but  they  were  fur- 
nished as  a  gratuity  with  one  pint  on  leaving  rendezvous,  and  another  on  arriv- 
ing at  winter  quarters.     By  this  management,  it  became  impossible  fo"  them  to 


AKRIVAL   OF   "THE   BmCADK. 


27 


1  I 


Tood  faith 
numerous 

cnicd  the 
ntroduccd 
Fur  Com- 

dcprivcd 
tinued  by 

sale  of  it 
I!  Indians, 
as  sold  to 
le  greatest 
IS  enjoined 
enabled  to 

generally 
drunk  and 
as  sure  to 
ban  usual, 
nd  him  to 
le  grounds 
rmitted  to 
e  was,  and 

more  than 
lem  would 
ideavors  to 
ntoxicated. 
dence  that 
faithfulness 
e  properly 
id  met  him 
le  cause  of 
'enting  an- 
,  to  wish  to 
nsequences 
:1  and  eare- 
wise  would 

1  times :  to 
be  used  as 
ut  too  strict 
'  demanded 
y  were  fur- 
er  on  arriv- 
for  them  to 


dispose  of  drink  to  the  Indians ;  their  small  allowance  being  i,1ways  immedi- 
ately consumed  in  a  meeting  or  parting  carouse. 

The  aiTival  of  men  from  the  interior  sit  Fort  Vancouver  usually  took  j)lace 
i»  the  month  of  June,  when  the  Columbia  was  high,  and  a  stirring  scene;  it 
was.  The  chief  traders  generally  c(jntrived  their  march  through  the  upper 
country,  their  camps,  and  their  rendezvous,  so  as  to  meet  the  Express  which 
annually  came  to  Vancouver  from  Canada  and  the  Red  River  settlements. 
They  then  descended  the  Columbia  together,  and  arrived  in  Ibrce  at  the  Fort, 
niis  annual  fleet  went  by  the  name  of  Brigade — a  name  which  suggested  a 
military  spirit  in  the  crews  that  their  appearance  failed  to  vindicate.  Yet, 
though  there  was  nothing  warlike  in  the  scene,  there  was  much  that  was  excit- 
ing, picturesque,  and  even  brilliant ;  for  these  couriers  de  I/oh,  or  wood-rangers, 
and  the  voyageurs,  or  boatmen,  were  the  most  foppish  of  mortals  when  they 
came  to  rendezvous,  llien,  too,  there  was  an  exaltation  of  sjiirits  on  their  safe 
arrival  at  head-fjuarters,  after  their  year's  toil  and  danger  in  wildernesses, 
among  Indians  and  wild  beasts,  exposed  to  famine  and  accident,  that  almost 
deprived  them  of  what  is  called  "  common  sense,"  and  compelled  them  to  the 
most  fantastic  excesses. 

Their  well-understood  peculiarities  did  not  make  them  the  less  welcome  at 
Vancouver.  When  the  cry  was  given — "  the  Rrigade  !  the  Brigade  ! " — there 
was  a  general  rush  to  the  river's  bank  to  witness  the  spectacle.  In  advance 
came  the  chief-trader's  barge,  with  the  company's  flag  at  the  bow,  and  the 
cross  of  St.  George  at  the  stern :  the  fleet  as  many  abreast  as  the  turnings  of 
the  river  allowed.  With  strong  and  skillful  strokes  the  boatmen  governed  their 
richly  laden  boats,  keeping  them  in  line,  and  at  the  same  time  singing  in  chorus 
a  loud  and  not  unmusical  hunting  or  boating  song.  Tlie  gay  ribbons  and  i'eath- 
ers  with  which  the  singers  were  bedecked  took  nothing  from  the  picturesque- 
ness  of  their  appearance.  The  broad,  full  river,  sparkling  in  the  sunlight, 
gemmed  with  emerald  islands,  and  bordered  with  a  rich  growth  of  flowering 
shrubbery ;  the  smiling  plain  surrounding  the  Fort ;  the  distant  mountains, 
where  glittered  the  sentinel  Mt.  Hood,  all  came  gracefully  into  the  picture,  and 
seemed  to  furnish  a  fitting  back-ground  and  middle  distance  for  the  bright  bit 
of  coloring  given  by  the  moving  life  in  the  scene.  As  with  a  skillful  sweep  the 
brigade  touched  the  bank,  and  the  traders  and  men  sprang  on  shore,  the  first 
cheer  which  had  welcomed  their  appearance  was  heartily  repeated,  while  a  gay 
clamor  of  questions  and  answers  followed. 

After  the  business  immediately  incident  to  their  arrival  had  been  dispatched, 
then  took  place  the  regale  of  pork,  flour,  and  spirits,  which  was  sure  to  end  in 
a  carouse,  during  which  blackened  eyes  and  broken  noses  were  not  at  all  un- 
common ;  but  though  blood  was  made  to  flow,  life  was  never  put  seriously  in 
peril,  and  the  belligerent  parties  were  the  best  cif  friends  when  the  fracas  was 
ended. 

The  business  of  exchange  being  completed  in  three  or  four  weeks — the  rich 
stores  of  peltries  consigned  to  their  places  in  the  warehouse,  and  the  boats  re- 
laden  with  goods  for  the  next  year's  trade  with  the  Indians  in  the  upper  country, 
a  parting  carouse  took  place,  and  with  another  parade  of  feathers,  ribbons,  and 


m 
■r 


n 


OTHER  YEARLY   ARRIVALS, 


II 


Other  finery,  the  brirtiide  departed  with  songs  and  cheers  as  it  had  come,  but 
witli  prohiil)!)'  heavier  liearta. 

It  would  be  a  stern  morality  indeed  which  could  look  upon  the  excesses  of 
this  peculiar  class  as  it  would  upon  the  same  excesses  committed  by  men  in  the 
enjoyment  of  all  the  comforts  and  pleasures  of  civilized  life.  For  them,  during 
most  of  the  year,  was  only  an  out-door  life  of  toil,  watchfidness,  peril,  and 
isolation.  When  they  arrived  a'  the  rendezvous,  for  the  brief  periwl  of  their 
stay  they  were  allowed  perfect  license  because  nothing  else  would  content 
them.  Although  at  head-cpuirters  they  were  still  in  the  wilderness,  thousands 
of  miles  from  civilization,  with  no  chance  of  such  recreations  as  men  in  the 
continual  enjoyment  of  life's  sweetest  pleasures  would  naturally  seek.  For 
them  there  was  only  one  method  of  seeking  and  finding  temporary  oblivion  of 
the  accustomed  hardship  ;  and  whatever  may  be  the  strict  rendering  of  man's 
duty  as  an  immortal  being,  we  cannot  help  being  somewhat  lenient  at  times  to 
his  errors  as  a  mortal. 

After  the  departure  of  the  boats,  there  was  another  arriv.al  at  the  Fort,  of 
trappers  from  the  Snake  River  county.  Previous  to  1832,  such  were  the  dan- 
gers of  the  fur  trade  in  this  region,  that  only  the  most  experienced  traders 
were  suffered  to  conduct  a  party  through  it ;  and  even  they  were  frequently 
attacked,  and  sometimes  sustained  serious  losses  of  men  and  animals.  Subse- 
quently, however,  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  obtained  such  an  influence  over 
even  these  hostile  tribes  as  to  make  it  safe  for  a  party  of  no  more  than  two  of 
tlieir  men  to  travel  through  this  much  dreaded  region. 

There  was  another  important  arrival  at  Fort  Vancouver,  usually  in  mid- 
summer. This  was  the  Company's  supply  ship  from  London.  In  the  possible 
event  of  a  vessel  being  lost,  one  cargo  was  always  kept  on  store  at  Vancouver ; 
but  for  which  wise  regulation  much  trouble  and  disaster  might  have  resulted, 
especially  in  the  early  days  of  the  establishment.  Occasionally  a  vessel  foun- 
dered at  sea  or  was  lost  on  the  bar  of  the  Columbia ;  but  these  losses  did  not 
interrupt  the  regular  transaction  of  business.  The  arrival  of  a  ship  from  Lon- 
don was  the  occasion  of  great  bustle  and  excitement  also.  She  brought  not 
only  goods  for  the  posts  throughout  the  district  of  the  Columbia,  but  letters, 
papers,  private  parcels,  and  all  that  seemed  of  so  much  value  to  the  little 
isolated  world  at  the  Fort. 

A  comi)any  conducting  its  business  with  such  mothod  and  regularity  as  has 
been  described,  was  certain  of  success.  Yet  some  credit  also  must  attach  to 
certain  individuals  in  its  service,  whose  faithfulness,  zeal,  and  ability  in  carry- 
ing out  its  designs,  contributed  largely  to  its  welfare.  Such  a  man  was  at  the 
head  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  afl^iirs  in  the  large  and  important  dis- 
trict west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  Tlie  Company  never  had  in  its  service  a 
more  eflicient  man  than  Gov.  John  McLaughlin,  more  commonly  called  Dr. 
McLaughlin. 

'  To  the  discipline,  at  once  severe  and  just,  which  Dr.  McLaughlin  maintained 
in  his  district,  was  due  the  safety  and  prosperity  of  tlie  company  he  s^«i^ed, 
and  the  servants  of  that  company  generally ;  as  well  as,  at  a  later  period,  of 
the  emigration  which  followed  the  hunter  and  trapper  into  the  wilds  of  Oregon. 


PUNISHMENT   OP   INDIAN    OFFENDKH!*. 


29 


Careful  as  were  all  the  officers  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  tliey  could  not 
always  avoid  eontlicts  with  the  Indians ;  nor  was  their  kindness  and  justice 
always  sufficiently  appreciated  to  prevent  the  outbreak  of  savage  instincts. 
Fort  Vancouver  had  been  threatened  in  an  early  day ;  a  vessel  of  two  had 
been  lost  in  which  the  Indians  were  suspected  to  have  been  inij)licated ;  at 
lon<5  intervals  a  trader  was  murdered  in  the  interior ;  or  more  frecpiently, 
Indian  insolence  put  to  the  test  both  the  wisdom  and  courage  of  the  officers  to 
prevent  an  outbreak. 

When  murders  and  robberies  were  committed,  it  was  the  custom  at  Fort 
Vancouver  to  send  a  strong  party  to  demand  the  offenders  from  their  tribe  ; 
Such  was  the  well  known  power  and  influence  of  the  Company,  and  such  the 
wholesome  fear  of  the  '*  King  George  men,"  that  this  demand  was  never  re- 
sisted, and  if  the  murderer  could  be  found  he  was  given  up  to  be  hung  accord- 
ing to  "  King  (Jeorge '  laws.  They  were  almost  equally  impelled  to  good  con- 
duct by  the  state  of  dependence  on  the  company  into  which  they  had  been 
brought.  Once  they  had  subsisted  and  clothed  themselves  from  the  spoils  of 
the  rivers  and  Ibrcst ;  since  they  had  tasted  of  the  tree  of  knowledge  of  good 
and  evil,  they  could  no  more  return  to  skins  for  raiment,  nor  to  game  alone  for 
food.  Blankets  and  flour,  beads,  guns,  and  ammunition  had  become  dear  to 
their  hearts  :  for  all  these  things  they  must  love  and  obey  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Com])any.  Another  fine  stroke  of  policy  in  the  Company  was  to  destroy  the 
chieftain-ships  in  the  various  tribes ;  thus  weakening  them  by  dividing  them 
and  preventing  dangerous  coalitions  of  the  leading  spirits :  for  in  savage  as 
•well  as  civilized  life,  the  many  are  governed  by  the  few. 

It  may  not  be  uninteresting  in  this  place  to  give  a  few  anecdotes  of  the  man- 
ner in  which  conflicts  with  the  Indians  were  prevented,  or  offences  punished 
by  the  Hudson  s  Bay  Company.  In  the  year  1828  the  ship  William  and  Ann 
was  cast  away  just  inside  the  bar  of  the  Columbia,  under  circumstances  which 
seemed  to  direct  suspicion  to  the  Indians  in  that  vicinity.  VVliether  or  not 
tlicy  had  attacked  the  ship,  not  a  soul  was  saved  from  the  wreck  to  tell  how 
she  was  lost.  On  hearing  that  the  ship  had  gone  to  pieces,  and  that  the  In- 
dians had  appropriated  a  portion  of  her  cargo,  Dr.  McLaughlin  sent  a  message 
to  the  chiefs,  demanding  restitution  of  the  stolen  goods.  Nothing  was  returned 
by  the  messenger  excejjt  one  or  two  worthless  articles.  Immediately  an  armed 
force  was  sent  to  the  scene  of  the  robbery  with  a  fresh  demand  for  the  goods, 
which  the  chiefs,  in  view  of  their  spoils,  thought  proper  to  resist  by  firing  upon 
the  reclaiming  party.  But  they  were  not  unprepared  ;  and  a  swivel  was  dis- 
charged to  let  the  savages  know  what  they  might  expect  in  the  way  of  fire- 
arms. Tlie  argument  was  conclusive,  the  Indians  fleeing  into  the  woods. 
While  making  search  for  the  goods,  a  portion  of  which  were  found,  a  chief 
was  observed  skulking  near,  and  cocking  his  gun  ;  on  which  motion  one  of  the 
men  fired,  and  he  fell.  This  prompt  action,  the  justice  of  which  the  Indians 
well  understood,  and  tlio  intimidating  power  of  the  swivel,  put  an  end  to  the  in- 
cipient war.  Care  was  tlien  taken  to  impress  upon  their  minds  that  thev  must 
not  expect  to  profit  by  the  disasters  of  vessels,  nor  be  temj)ted  to  murder  white 
men  for  the  sake  of  i)lunder.     The  Wilhatn  and  Ann  was  supposed  to  have  got 


''4 


m 


80 


INDIAN   STRATEGY. 


» 


apround,  when  tho  savafjes  seeing  her  Rituation,  boarded  her  and  murdered  the 
crew  lor  the  cargo  which  they  knew  her  t«  contain.  Yet  us  there  were  no  jMwi- 
tive  proof's,  only  such  measures  were  taken  as  would  deter  them  from  a  similar 
attc^mpt  in  future.  Tliat  the  lesson  was  not  lost,  was  proven  two  years  later, 
when  the  Imhclln,  from  London,  struck  on  the  bar,  her  erew  desertinj^  her.  In 
this  instance  no  attempt  was  made  to  meddle  with  tho  vessel's  cargo ;  and  as 
the  crew  made  their  way  tc  Vancouver,  the  goods  were  nearly  all  saved. 

In  a  former  voyage  of  the  William  and  Ann  to  the  Columbia  River,  she  had 
been  sent  on  an  exploring  expedition  to  the  Gulf  of  Georgia  to  discover  tho 
mouth  of  Frazier's  Kiver,  having  on  l)oard  a  crew  of  tbrty  men.  Whenever 
the  ship  came  to  anchor,  two  sentries  were  kept  constantly  on  deck  to  guivrd 
against  any  surprise  or  miscondm^t  on  the  part  of  the  Indians;  so  adroit,  how- 
ever, were  they  in  the  light-fingered  art,  that  every  one  of  the  eight  cannon 
with  which  the  ship  was  armed  was  robbed  of  its  ammunition,  as  was  discovered 
on  leaving  the  river !  Such  incidents  as  these  served  to  impress  the  minds  of 
the  Companj's  officers  and  servants  with  the  necessity  of  vigilance  in  their  deal- 
ings with  the  savages. 

Not  all  their  vigilance  could  at  all  times  avail  to  prevent  mischief.  When 
Sir  George  Simpson,  Governor  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  was  on  a  visit 
to  Vancouver  in  1829,  he  was  made  aware  of  this  truism.  The  Governor  was 
on  his  return  to  Canada  by  way  of  the  Red  River  Settlement,  and  had  reached 
the  Dalles  of  the  Columbia  with  his  pjirty.  In  making  the  portage  at  this 
place,  all  the  party  except  Dr.  Tod  gave  their  guns  into  the  charge  of  two  men 
to  prevent  their  being  stolen  by  the  Indians,  who  crowded  about,  and  whose 
well-known  bad  character  made  great  care  needful.  All  went  well,  no  attempt 
to  seize  either  guns  or  other  property  being  made  until  at  the  end  of  the  port- 
age the  boats  had  been  reloaded.  As  the  party  were  about  to  re-embark,  a 
simultaneous  rush  was  made  by  the  Indians  who  had  dogged  their  steps,  to  get 
possession  of  the  boats.  Dr.  Tod  raised  his  gun  immediately,  aiming  at  the 
head  chief,  who,  not  liking  the  prospect  of  so  speedy  dissolution,  ordered  his 
followers  to  desist,  and  the  party  were  suffered  to  escape.  It  was  soon  after 
discovered  that  every  gun  belonging  to  the  party  in  the  boat  had  been  wet, 
excepting  the  one  carried  by  Dr.  Tod ;  and  to  the  fact  that  tho  Doctor  did  carry 
his  gun,  all  the  others  owed  their  lives.  ;-  •:.•,•:  i--  ■ 

The  great  desire  of  the  Indiai  -^  for  guns  and  ammunition  led  to  many  strata- 
gems which  were  dangerous  to  the  possessors  of  the  coveted  articles.  Much 
more  dangerous  would  it  have  been  to  have  allowed  them  a  free  supply  of  these 
things ;  nor  could  an  Indian  purchase  from  the  Company  more  than  a  stated 
supply,  which  was  to  be  used,  not  for  the  purposes  of  war,  but  to  keep  himself 
in  game. 

Dr.  McLaughlin  was  himself  once  quite  near  fivlling  into  a  trap  of  the  Indiana, 
so  cunningly  laid  as  to  puzzle  even  him.  This  was  a  report  brought  to  him 
by  a  deputation  of  Columbia  River  Indians,  stating  the  startling  fact  that  the 
fort  at  Nesqually  had  been  attacked,  and  every  inmate  slaughtered.  To  this 
horrible  story,  told  with  everj-  appearance  of  truth,  the  Doctor  listened  with 
incredulity  mingled  with  apprehension.     The  Indians  were  closely  questioned 


r ' 


A   IIEUO. 


m'' 


iinil  cross-fjiicstinnnd,  hut  did  not  conflict  in  tlioir  toptlmony.  Tlic  mattor  ns- 
hii'iicil  a  very  piiini'iil  iisp(;ct.  Not  to  be  ili-ci'lvod,  tho  I)(«'tor  liiul  the  iinwel- 
coino  nu'ssi'ii^^tTH  conunittcd  to  custody  while  lio  could  brinj^  other  witnesses 
I'roni  their  tribe.  But  ihcy  were  iircpiireil  lor  this,  iiiid  the  whole  tribe  were  as 
IM)sitivc  09  those  who  brou<j;ht  the  tide.  Confounded  by  this  cloud  of  witnesses, 
Dr.  INh'J^uuidirni  h:id  almost  determined  upon  sendin}^  an  anned  tinre  to  Nes- 
qually  to  inijuire  into  the  matter,  and  if  necessary,  punish  the  Indians,  wlien  a 
detachment  of  men  arrived  from  that  jwjst,  and  the  jilot  was  exposed  I  ITio 
design  of  the  Indians  had  been  simply  to  cause  a  division  of  the  force  at  Van- 
couver, after  wliich  they  believed  they  miy;ht  succeed  in  capturing  and  j)lunder- 
hvx,  tlie  fort.  Had  they  truly  been  successful  in  this  undertakin<|,  every  other 
tra<lin<r-post  in  llie  country  would  have  been  destroyed.  But  so  lon<jf  as  tho 
h((ad-(iuarters  of  the  Company  remained  secure  and  powerful,  the  other  stations 
were  comparatively  safe. 

An  incident  which  has  been  several  times  related,  occuiTcd  at  fort  Walla- 
Walla,  and  show;!  how  narrow  escapes  the  interior  traders  sometimes  made. 
The  hero  of  this  anecdote  was  Mr.  McKinlay,  one  of  the  most  estimable  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Com[)any's  officers,  in  charge  of  the  fort  just  named.     An  Indian 
was  one  day  lounging  about  tho  l()rt,  and  seeing  some  timbers  lying  in  a  heap 
that  had  been  scjnarcd  for  pack  saddles,  helped  himself  to  one  and  ctmimenced 
cutting  it  down  into  a  whip  handle  for  his  own  use.     To  this  j)rocedure  Mr. 
McKinlay's  clerk  demurred,  first  telling  the  Indian  its  use,  and  then  ordering 
him  to  resign  the  piece  of  timber.     The  Indian  insolently  replied  that  the  tim- 
ber was  his,  and  he  should  take  it.     At  this  the  clerk,  with  more  temper  than 
prudence,  struck  the  oll'ender,  knocking  him  over,  soon  alter  which  the  savage ■ 
led  the  fort  with  sullen  looks  boding  vengeance.     The  next  day  Mr.  McKinlay, 
not  being  informed  of  what  had  taken  jjlace,  was  in  a  room  of  the  fort  with  his 
clerk  when  a  considerable  party  of  Indians  began  dropj)ing  quietly  in  until 
there  were  fifteen  or  twenty  of  them  inside  the  building.     The  first  intimation 
of  anything  wrong  McKinlay  rec(;ived  was  when  he  observed  the  clerk  pointed 
out  in  a  particular  manner  by  one  of  tho  party.     He   instantly  comprehended 
the  purj)ose  of  his  visitors,  and  with  that  (piickness  of  thought  which  is  habitual 
to  the  student  of  savage  nature,  he  rushed  into  the  store  room  and  returned 
with  a  j)owder  keg,  flint  a!id   steel.     By  this  time  the  unlucky  clerk  was  strug- 
gling for  his  life  with  his  vindictive  ibes.     Putting  down  the  powder  in  their 
midst  and  knocking  out  the  head  of  the  keg  with  a  blow,  McKinlay  stood  over 
it  ready  to  strike  fire  with  his  flint  and  steel.     The  savages  paused  aghast. 
They  knew  the  nature  of  the  "  perilous  stuff,"  and  also  understood  the  trader's 
purpose.     "  Come,"  said  he  with  a  clear,  determinefl  voice,  "  yon  are  twenty 
braves  against  us  two :  now  touch  him  if  you  dare,  and  see  who  dies  first  "    In 
a  moment  tho  fort  was  cleared,  and  McKinlay  was  lefl  to  inquire  the  cause  of 
what  had  so  nearly  been  a  tragedy.     It  is  hardly  a  subject  of  doubt  whether  or 
not  his  clerk  got  a  scolding.     Soon  afler,  such  was  the  powerful  influence 
exerted  by  these  gentlemen,  the  chief  of  the  tribe  flogged  the  pilfering  Indian 
for  the  offence,  and  McKinlay  became  a  great  brave,  a  "  big  heart "  for  his 
courage.  ^ntifi-nn) 


1 


M 


a 


i!  ^1 


•il 


82 


THE   AMERICAN   FUR   COMPANIES. 


i 


It  was  indeed  necessary  to  have  conra^re,  patience,  and  prudence  in  dealing 
witli  tlie  IiKliiins.  These  the  Hudson's  Hay  oHicers  (;('neraily  jMjssessc'd.  I'it- 
hups  tlie  most  irascililc  of  theui  all  in  tlic  Columbia  District,  was  their  chief, 
Dr.  MeLau}j;hlin;  but  such  was  his  (goodness  and  justice  that  even  the  Bava;;«'8 
ri'eo^fuizt'd  it,  and  ho  was  hiias  li/t'e,  or  j^reat  chief,  in  all  respects  to  thetn. 
Beinif  on  out;  occasion  very  much  annoyed  liy  the  pertinacity  of  an  Indian  wlio 
was  continually  demanding  pay  for  some  stones  with  which  the  Doctor  was 
havinir  iv  vt-ssel  ballasted;  he  seized  one  of  some  size,  and  thrust ing  it  in  the 
Indian's  month,  cried  out  in  a  furious  manner,  "pay,  pay!  it  the  stones  are 
yours,  take  them  and  eat  them,  you  rascal !  Pay,  j)ay  I  the  di-vil  I  the  devil  I  " 
ujjon  which  explosion  of  wrath,  the  native  owner  of  the  soil  thought  it  prudent 
to  withdraw  his  innncdiate  claims. 

There  was  more,  however,  in  the  Doctor's  action  than  mere  in(hilgence  of 
wrath.  He  understood  perfectly  that  the  savage  values  only  what  he  can  eat 
and  wear,  and  that  as  lie  could  not  put  the  stones  to  either  of  these  uses,  his 
demand  lor  jjay  was  an  impudent  one. 

Enougli  has  been  said  to  give  the  reader  an  insight  into  Indian  character,  to 
prepare  his  mind  for  events  which  are  to  follow,  to  convey  an  idea  of  the  influ- 
ence of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  and  to  show  on  what  it  was  founded. 
The  Anu'rican  Fur  Comi)anie8  will  now  lu^  sketched,  and  their  modtiof  dealing 
with  the  Indians  contrasted  with  that  of  the  British  Company.  The  compari- 
son will  not  be  favorable ;  but  shoidd  any  inifairness  be  suspected,  a  reference 
to  Mr.  Irving's  Bonneville,  will  show  tliat  the  worthy  Captain  was  forced  to 
witness  against  his  own  countrymen  in  his  narrative  of  his  hunting  and  trading 
adventures  in  the  llocky  Mountains.         --. 


The  dissolution  of  the  Pacific  Fur  Company,  the  refusal  of  the  United  States 
Government  to  protect  Mr.  Astor  in  a  second  attempt  to  carry  on  a  commerce 
with  the  Indians  >.''!)!,  o?  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  the  occupation  of  (hat 
country  by  British  traders,  had  the  effect  to  deter  individual  enterprise  fi-om 
again  attempting  to  t\<tublish  commerce  on  the  Pacific  coast.  Tlio  people 
waited  for  the  Gov<"'ii!M,nt  to  take  some  steps  toward  the  encouragement  of  a 
trans-oontincutal  trade;  the  Government  beliolding  the  lion  (British)  in  the 
way,  waited  for  the  expiration  of  tlie  convention  of  1818,  in  the  Micawber-like 
hope  that  something  would  "turn  up"  to  settle  the  question  of  territorial  sov- 
ereignty. The  w^r  of  1812  had  been  begun  on  the  part  of  Great  Britain,  to 
secure  the  great  western  territories  to  herself  for  the  profits  of  the  fur  trade, 
almost  solely.  Failing  in  this,  she  had  been  compelled,  by  the  treaty  of  Ghent, 
to  restore  to  the  United  States  all  the  places  and  forts  captured  during  that 
war.  Yet  the  forts  and  trading  posts  in  the  west  remained  practically  in  the 
possession  of  Great  Britain  ;  for  her  traders  and  fur  companies  still  roamed  the 
country,  excluding  American  trade,  and  inciting  (so  the  frontiers-men  believed), 
the  Indians  to  acts  of  blood  and  horror. 

Congress  being  importuned  by  the  people  of  the  West,  finally,  in  1815,  passed 
an  act  expelling  British  traders  from  American  territory  east  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains.     Following  the  passage  of  olns  act  the  hunters  and  trapjiers  of  the 


ddj  j!"*f<" 


'■^-'tyfiiii  U}  <nii  ti   (.a£3T->j 


li'  i 


THE   ROCKY   MOUNTAIN    FUR   rOMTANY. 


88 


old  North  American  Compnny,  at  the  head  of  which  Mr.  Astor  still  remained, 
Ik'i^uii  to  run<{e  the  country  about  the  head  waters  of  the  Mi(iHiH!<ii)pi  and  the 
upper  Missouri.  Also  a  ti'w  Ann-rican  traders  liad  ventured  into  the  northern 
provinces  of  Mexico,  {)rcvious  to  tiuf  overthrow  of  the  Spanish  (loverninent; 
and  after  that  event,  a  thriving  traiie  j^rew  up  between  St.  Louis  and  Santu  Fo. 

At  ienj^th,  in  1H2.'{,  Mr.  W.  II.  Asliley,  of  St.  Louis,  a  merchant  for  a  long 
tinu!  en<;ay;cd  in  the  fur  trade  on  the  Missouri  and  its  tributaries,  determined  to 
push  a  tra<lin<^  pJirty  up  to  or  beyond  the  llocicy  Mountains.  Following  up 
flu!  Platte  Kiver,  Mr.  Ashley  proceeded  at  the  head  of  a  largo  party  with  horses 
and  merchandise,  as  far  as  the  northern  branch  of  the  IMatte,  called  the  Sweet- 
water. This  lie  explored  to  its  soin-ce,  situated  in  that  remarkable  depression 
in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  known  as  the  South  Pass — the  same  which  Fremont 
ilhrorereit  twenty  years  later,  durinj;  which  twenty  years  it  was  annually  trav- 
eled by  tradinj:;  parties,  and  just  prior  to  Fremont's  discovery,  by  missionaries 
anil  enii-rrants  destined  to  Ort?gon.  To  Mr.  Ashley  also  belon{];s  the  credit  of 
havin<;  first  explored  the  head-waters  of  the  Colorado,  called  the  Green  River, 
afterwards  a  favorite  rendezvous  of  the  American  Fur  Companies.  The  coun- 
try about  the  South  Pass  proved  to  bo  an  entirely  new  hunting  ground,  and 
very  rich  in  furs,  as  here  many  rivers  take  their  rise,  whose  head-waters  fur- 
nished abundant  beaver.  Here  Mr.  Ashley  spent  the  summer,  returnin<r  to  St. 
Louis  in  the  fall  with  a  valuable  collection  of  skins. 

In  1824,  Mr.  Ashley  repeated  the  expedition,  extending  it  this  time  beyond 
Green  River  as  far  as  Great  Salt  Lake,  near  which  to  the  south  he  discovei*ed 
another  smaller  lake,  which  he  named  Lake  Ashley,  after  himself.  On  the 
."horesof  this  lake  he  built  a  fort  for  trading  with  the  Indians,  and  leaving  in  it 
about  one  hundred  men,  returned  to  St.  Louis  the  second  time  with  a  larsre 
amount  of  furs.  During  the  time  the  fort  was  occupied  by  Mr.  Ashley's  men,  a 
period  of  three  years,  more  than  one  hundred  and  eighty  thousand  dollars  worth 
of  furs  were  collected  and  sent  to  St.  Louis,  In  1827,  the  fort,  and  all  Mr. 
Ashley's  interest  in  the  business,  was  sold  to  the  Rocky  Mountain  Fur  Company, 
at  the  head  of  which  were  Jedediah  Smith,  William  Sublette,  and  David 
Jackson,  Sublette  being  the  leading  spirit  in  the  Company.  'ii-p.trRtr 

The  custom  of  these  enterprising  traders,  who  had  been  in  the  mountains 
since  1824,  was  to  divide  their  force,  each  taking  his  command  to  a  good  hunt- 
ing ground,  and  returning  at  stated  times  to  rendezvous,  generally  appointed 
on  the  head-waters  of  Green  River.  Frequently  the  other  fur  companies,  (for 
there  were  other  companies  formed  on  the  heels  of  Ashley's  enterprise,)  learn- 
ing of  the  place  appointed  for  the  yearly  rendezvous,  brought  their  goods  to 
the  same  resort,  when  an  intense  rivalry  was  exhibited  by  the  several  traders 
as  to  which  company  should  soonest  dispose  of  its  goods,  getting,  of  course,  the 
largest  amount  of  furs  from  the  trappers  and  Indians.  So  great  was  the  com- 
petition in  the  years  between  1826  and  1829,  when  there  were  about  six  hun- 
dred American  trappers  in  and  about  the  Rocky  Mountains,  besides  those  of 
the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  that  it  was  death  for  a  man  of  one  company  to 
dispose  of  his  furs  to  a  rival  association.  Even  a  "  free  trapper  " — that  is,  one 
I  not  indentured,  but  hunting  upon  certain  terms  of  agreement  concerning  th« 


■| 


I  *'  I 


m 


■       I 


34 


ATIAC'K    (.)N    SMITH  S   PAUTY. 


prici'  of  his  furs  and  the  rost  of  his  outfit,  only,  dared  not  sell  to  any  other 
tonii)any  than  the  one  hv.  hud  aj^reed  with. 

Jedediah  Smith,  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  Fur  Company,  during  their  first 
year  in  the  mountains,  took  a  party  of  five  trappers  into  Oregon,  being  the 
first  American,  trader  or  other,  to  cross  into  that  country  since  the  breaking 
uj)  of  Mr.  Astor's  establishment.  He  trapped  on  the  head-waters  of  the  Snake 
lliver  until  autumn,  when  he  fell  in  with  a  party  of  Hudson's  Bay  trappers, 
and  going  Avitli  them  to  their  post  in  the  Flathead  coimtry,  wintered  there. 

Again,  in  1826,  Smith,  Sublette,  and  Jackson,  brought  out  a  large  number  of 
men  to  trap  in  the  Snake  Kiver  country,  and  entered  into  direct  competition 
with  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  whom  they  opposed  with  hardly  a  degree 
more  of  ?eal  than  they  competed  with  riv.al  Amei'icrn  traders  :  this  one  extra 
degree  being  inspired  by  a  "  spirit  of  '76  "  toward  mything  British. 

After  the  liocky  Mountain  Fur  Company  had  extended  its  business  by  the 
purchase  of  Mr.  Ashley's  interest,  the  partners  determined  to  push  their  enter- 
prise to  the  Pacific  coast,  regardless  of  the  opposition  they  were  likely  to  en- 
counter from  the  Hudson's  Bay  traders.  Accordingly,  in  the  spring  of  1827, 
the  Company  was  divided  up  into  three  part",  t^  he  led  separately,  by  different 
routes,  into  the  Indian  Territory,  nearer  the  ocean. 

Smith's  route  was  from  the  Platte  River,  southwards  to  Santa  Fe,  thence  to 
the  bay  of  San  Francisco,  and  thence  along  the  coast  to  the  Columbia  River. 
His  party  were  successful,  and  had  arrived  in  the  autumn  of  the  following  year 
at  the  Umjjqua  River,  about  two  hundred  miles  south  of  the  Columbia,  in 
safety.  Here  one  of  those  sudden  reverses  to  which  the  "  mountain-man  "  is 
liable  at  any  moment,  overtook  him.  His  party  at  tV^f  time  consisted  of  thir- 
teen men,  with  their  horses,  and  a  collection  of  furs  valued  at  twenty  thousand 
dollars.  Arrived  at  the  Umptpia,  they  encamped  for  the  night  on  its  southern 
bank,  unaware  that  tlu'  natives  in  this  vicinity  (the  Shastas)  were  more  fierce 
and  treacherous*  than  the  indolent  tribes  of  California,  for  whom,  probably, 
they  had  a  great  contempt.  All  went  well  until  the  following  morning,  the 
Indians  hanging  about  the  camp,  but  apparently  friendly.  Smith  had  just 
breakfasted,  and  w:;s  ocu-npied  in  looking  for  a  fonling-jilace  for  the  animals, 
being  on  a  raft,  and  having  with  him  a  little  Englishman  and  one  Indian. 
When  they  were  in  the  middle  of  the  river  the  Ip;iian  snateheil  Smith's  gun 
and  jumped  iiH'j  the  water.  At  the  tame  instnut  a  yell  from  the  eainp,  which 
was  'n  sight,  proclaimed  that  it  was  attackctd.  Quick  as  thought  Smith 
snatched  the  Englishman's  gun,  and  shot,  dead  the  Indian  in  the  river. 

To  return  to  the  camp  was  certain  death.  \h'(!ady  several  of  his  men  had 
fallen  ;  overpowered  by  numbers  he  could  not  hope  that  any  would  liseape,  and 
ni.tliing  was  left  him  but  fiight.  He  succeetled  in  getting  to  the  o])posite  shore 
with  his  rafl  Ix'fore  h<>  could  be  intercepted,  and  fled  with  his  companion,  on 
foot  and  with  only  one  gun,  and  no  provisions,  to  the  mountains  tliat  border 
the  river.  With  great  good  fortune  they  were  enabled  to  pass  through  the  re- 
maining two  hundred  miles  of  their  journey  without  accident,  though  not  with- 
out snfTering,  and  reach  Fort  Vancouver  in  a  destitute  condition,  where  they 
were  kindly  cared  for. 


JOSEPH   L.   MEEK. 


ar> 


Of  the  mpn  left  in  camp,  only  two  escaped.  One  man  named  Black  de- 
fondt  (1  himself  until  he  saw  an  ojjportunity  for  flight,  when  he  escapeil  to  the 
cover  of  the  woods,  and  finally  to  a  friendly  tribe  farther  north,  near  the  coast, 
who  piloted  him  to  Vancouver.  The  remaining  man  was  one  Turner,  of  a  very 
powerful  fi'ame,  who  was  doing  camp  duty  as  cook  on  this  eventful  morning. 
When  the  Indians  rushed  upon  him  he  defended  himself  with  a  huge  firebrand, 
or  half-burnt  popiar  stick,  with  which  he  laid  al)Out  him  like  Sampson,  killing 
four  red-skins  before  he  saw  a  chance  of  escape.  Singularly,  for  one  in  his  ex- 
tremity, he  did  escape,  and  also  arrived  at  Vancouver  that  winter. 

Dr.  McLaughlin  received  the  unlucky  trader  and  his  three  surviving  men 
w.'h  every  mark  and  expression  of  kindne"',  and  entertained  them  through  the 
winter.  Not  only  this,  but  he  dispatched  a  strong,  armed  party  to  the  scene 
of  the  disaster  to  punish  the  Indians  and  recover  the  stolen  goods  ;  all  of  which 
was  done  at  his  own  expense,  both  as  an  act  of  friendship  toward  his  Ameri- 
can rivals,  and  as  necessary  to  the  discipune  which  they  everywhere  maintained 
among  the  Indians.  Should  this  offence  go  unpunished,  the  next  attack  might 
be  upon  one  of  his  own  parties  ,"'>ing  annually  down  into  California.  Sir 
George  Simpson,  the  Governo.  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  chanced  to  be 
spending  the  winter  at  Vancouver.  He  offered  to  send  Suuth  to  Londim  the 
following  summer,  in  the  Company's  vessel,  where  he  might  dispose  of  his  fiu-s 
to  advantage ;  but  Smith  declined  this  offer,  and  finally  sold  his  furs  to  Dr. 
AlcLaughlin,  and  returned  in  the  sjOTng  to  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

On  Sublette's  return  from  St.  Louis,  in  the  summer  of  182!),  v.ith  men  and 
merchandise  for  the  year's  trade,  1m)  became  uneasy  on  accoimt  of  Smith's  i)ro- 
tracted  absence.  According  to  a  previous  phin,  he  took  a  large  party  into  the 
Snake  River  country  to  hunt.  Among  the  rc^cruits  fr.iui  St.  Louis  was  Joseph 
L.  Meek,  the  subject  of  ihe  narrative  following  this  ehaptei .  Sublette  not 
meeting  with  Smith's  party  on  its  way  from  the  Columbia,  as  he  still  hoped,  at 
length  detailed  a  party  to  look  for  him  on  the  head-wat<^rs  of  the  Snake.  Mei'k 
was  one  of  the  men  sent  to  look  for  the  missing  partner,  whom  he  discovered 
at  length  in  PieiTc's  Hole,  a  deep  valley  in  the  mountains,  from  which  issues 
the  Snake  River  in  many  living  streams.  Smith  returntid  with  the  men  to 
camp,  where  the  tale  of  his  disasters  was  received  after  the  manner  of  moun- 
tain-men, simply  declaring  with  a  momentarily  sobered  countenance,  that  their 
comrade  has  not  been  "in  luck;"  with  which  briif  and  ecjuivocal  exjjression 
of  sympathy  the  s»dije(;t  is  dismissed.  To  dwell  on  the  dangers  incident  to 
their  calling  woidd  be  to  half  disarm  themselves  of  their  necessary  courage  ; 
and  it  is  only  when  they  are  gathered  about  the  fire  in  their  winter  camp,  that 
they  indulge  in  tiiles  of  wild  advenUire  and  "  hair-breadth  'scapes,"  or  make 
sorrowiid  retorence  to  a  comr.'ulc  lost. 

Influenced  by  the  hospitable  treatment  which  Smith  had  received  at  the 
hands  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  ('ompany,  the  partners  now  determined  to  with- 
draw from  competition  with  them  in  the  Snake  country,  and  to  trap  ".pon  the 
waters  of  the  Colorado,  in  the  neighborhood  of  their  fort.  But  "  luck,"  the 
moimtain-man's  Providence,  seemed  to  have  deserted  Smith.  In  crossing  the^ 
Colorado  River  with  a  considerable  collection  of  skins,  i;e  was  again  attacked 


36 


WYETH  S   EXPEDITIOiNS. 


>'l  i 


by  Indians,  and  only  escaped  by  losing  all  his  property.  lie  then  went  to  St. 
I^ouis  for  a  supply  of  merchandise,  and  fitted  out  a  trading  party  for  Santa  Fe  ; 
but  on  his  way  to  that  place  was  kiLed  in  an  encounter  with  the  savages. 

Turner,  the  man  who  so  valiantly  wielded  the  firebrand  on  the  Umpqua 
River,  several  years  later  met  with  a  similar  adventure  on  the  Rogue  River,  in 
Southern  Oregon,  and  was  the  means  of  saving  the  lives  of  his  party  by  his 
courage,  strength,  and  alertness.  He  finally,  when  trapping  had  become  un- 
profitable, retired  upon  a  f  rm  in  the  Wallamet  Valley,  as  did  many  other 
mountain-men  who  survived  the  dangers  of  their  perilous  trade.         c, 

After  tlie  death  of  Smith,  the  Rocky  Mountain  Fur  Company  continued  its 
operations  under  th3  command  of  Bridger,  Fitzpatrick,  and  ]V'i:tou  Sublette, 
brother  of  William.  In  the  spring  of  1830  they  rece'r,'''- 1  ibi^  ^o  hundred 
recruits,  and  with  litde  variation  kept  up  their  number  ot  r  st  ...  .u  tr  hundred 
men  for  a  period  of  eight  or  ten  years  longer,  o^  'intil  the  beaver  were  hunted 
out  of  every  nook  and  corner  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

Previous  to  1835,  there  were  in  and  about  the  Rocky  Mountiiins,  beside  the 
"  American  "  and  "  Rocky  Mountain  "  companies,  the  St.  Louis  Company,  and 
eight  or  ten  "  lone  traders."  Among  these  latter  were  William  Sublette, 
Robert  Campbell,  J.  O.  Pattie,  Mr.  Pilcher ,  Col.  Charles  Bent,  St.  Vrain, 
W'illiam  Bent,  Mr.  Gant,  and  Mr.  Blackwell.  All  these  companies  and 
traders  more  or  less  frequently  penetrated  into  the  countries  of  New  Mexico, 
Old  Mexico,  Sonora,  and  California ;  returning  sometimes  through  the  moun- 
tain regions  of  the  latter  State,  by  the  Humboldt  River  to  the  head-waters  of 
the  Colorado.  Seldom,  in  all  their  journeys,  did  they  intrude  on  that  portion 
of  the  Indian  Territory  lying  within  three  hundred  miles  of  Fort  Vancouver, 
or  which  forms  the  area  of  the  present  State  of  Oregon. 

Up  to  1832,  the  fur  trade  in  the  West  had  been  chiefly  conducted  h  v-.cr- 
chants  from  the  frontier  cities,  especially  by  those  of  St.  Louia.  i  '  !• 
"North  American "  was  the  only  exception.  But  in  the  spring  of  ti  «  a  . 
Captain  Bonneville,  an  United  States  officer  on  furlough,  led  a  company  ol  > 
hundred  men,  with  a  train  of  wagons,  horses  ai.  niules,  with  merchandise,  into 
the  trapping  grounds  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  His  wagons  ^»rere  the  first  that 
had  ever  crossed  the  summit  of  these  mountains,  though  W'illiam  Sublette  had, 
two  or  three  years  previous,  brought  wagons  as  far  as  the  valley  of  the  Wind 
River,  on  the  east  side  of  the  range.  Captain  Bonneville  remained  nearly 
three  years  in  tlie  hunting  and  trapping  grounds,  taking  parties  of  men  into 
the  Colorado,  Humboldt,  and  Sfvcrameuto  valleys  ;  -  it  ^e  realized  no  profits 
from  his  expedition,  being  opposed  and  competed  .,  '  oy  both  Ii'  ish  and 
American  traders  of  larger  experience. 
*'  But  Captain  Bonneville's  venture  was  a  fortunate  one  compared  i  '^  h  t 
•  of  Mr.  Nathaniel  Wyeth  of  Massachusetts,  who  also  crossed  the  continviit  in 
^'  1832,  with  the  view  of  establishing  a  trade  on  the  Columbia  River  Mr.  Wyeth 
brought  with  him  a  small  party  of  men,  aii  inc  •  -m  ienced  in  frontier  or  moun- 
tain life,  and  destined  for  a  talmon  fisJi  r)  on  tlv;  '  oi'imbia.  He  had  reached 
Independence,  Missouri,  the  last  statio'i  before  plu;,gu,g  into  the  wilderness,  and 
found  himself  somewhat  at  a  loss  how  to  proceed,  uuul,  at  this  juncture,  he  was 


DECLINE  OF  THE  iMERICAN  FUR  TRADE. 


37 


overtaken  by  tba  party  of  William  Sublette,  from  St.  Louis  to  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, with  whom  he  travelled  in  company  to  the  rentlezvous  at  Pierre's  Hole. 

When  Wyeth  arrived  at  the  Columbia  River,  after  tarrying  until  he  had 
acquired  some  mountain  experiences,  he  found  that  his  vessel,  which  was  loaded 
with  mere  'landise  for  the  Columbia  River  trade,  had  not  arrive.].  He  remained 
at  Vancouver  through  the  winter,  the  guest  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company, 
and  either  having  learned  or  surmised  that  his  vessel  was  wrecked,  returned  to 
the  United  States  in  the  following  year.  Not  discouraged,  howe  ver,  he  made 
another  venture  in  1834,  despatching  the  ship  May  Dacre,  Captain  Lambert, 
for  the  Columbia  River,  with  another  cargo  of  Indian  goods,  traveling  himself 
overland  with  a  party  of  two  hundred  men,  and  a  considerable  quantity  of  mer- 
chandise which  he  expected  to  sell  to  the  Rocky  Mountain  Fur  Company.  In 
til's  expectation  he  wus  defeated  by  William  Sublette,  who  had  also  brought  out 
s  large  assortment  of  goods  for  the  Indian  trade,  and  had  sold  out,  supplying 
the  market,  before  Mr.  AVyeth  arrived. 

Wyeth  then  built  a  post,  named  Fort  Hall,  on  Snake  River,  at  the  junction 
of  the  Portneuf,  where  he  stored  his  goods,  and  having  detached  most  of  his 
men  in  trapping  parties,  proceeded  to  the  Columbia  River  to  meet  the  May 
Dacre.  He  reached  the  Columbia  about  the  same  iime  with  his  vessel,  and 
proceeded  at  once  to  erect  a  salmon  fishery.  To  fc  ward  this  purpose  he  built 
a  post,  called  Fort  William,  on  the  lower  end  of  Wapp.itoo  (now  known  as 
Sauvle's)  Island,  near  where  the  Lower  Wallamet  falls  into  the  Columbia.  But 
for  various  reasons  he  found  the  business  on  which  he  had  entered  unprofitable. 
He  had  much  trouble  with  the  Indians,  his  men  were  killed  or  drowned,  so  that 
by  the  time  ho  had  half  a  cargo  of  fish,  he  was  ready  to  abandon  the  effort  to 
establish  a  commerce  with  the  Oregon  Indians,  and  was  satisfied  that  no  enter- 
prise less  stupendous  and  powerful  than  that  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company 
could  be  long  sustainijd  in  that  country. 

Much  complnint  was  subsequently  made  by  Americans,  chiefly  Missionaries, 
of  the  conduct  of  that  company  in  not  allowing  Mr.  Wyeth  to  purchase  beayor 
skins  of  tlid  Indians,  hut  Mr.  Wyeth  himself  made  no  such  complaint.  Person- 
ally, he  was  treated  with  u  iv  \rying  kindnes  j,  courtesy,  and  hospitality.  As  a 
trader,  they  would  not  pen.iit  him  to  undersell  them.  In  truth,  they  no  do«^ 
wished  him  away ;  because  conij^etition  ^.ould  soon  ruin  the  business  of  eithijijf ' 
and  they  liked  not  to  havf,  the  Indim;:.  taught  to  expect  more  than  their  furs 
were  worih,  nor  to  ha. \;  the  Indians'  confidence  in  themselves  destroyed  or 
tampered  with. 

Tlie  Hudson's  Bay  Company  were  hardly  so  unfi-iendly  to  him  as  the  Ameri- 
can companies ;  since  to  the  former  he  was  enabled  to  sell  his  goods  and  fort  on 
the  Snake  River,  before  he  returned  to  the  United  States,  which  he  did  in  1835. 

The  sale  of  Fort  Hall  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  was  a  finishing  blow  at 
the  American  fur  trade  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  which  ailer  two  or  three  years 
of  constantly  declining  profits,  was  entirely  abandoned. 

Something  of  the  dangers  incident  to  the  life  of  the  hunter  and  trapper  may 
be  gathered  from  the  following  statements,  made  by  various  parties  who  have 
been  engaged  in  it.     In  1808,  a  Mis.^ouri   Company  engaged  in  fur  hunting  on 


1  -will 


.III 


\/% 


ili 


^8 


CAUSES   OF   THE   INDIANS     HOSTILITY. 


the  three  forks  of  the  river  IMissouri,  were  attacked  by  Blackfeet,  losing  twenty- 
seven  men,  and  being  compelled  to  abandon  the  country.  In  1823,  Mr.  Ashley 
was  attacked  on  the  same  river  by  the  Arickaras,  and  had  twenty-six  men 
killed.  About  the  same  time  the  Missouri  company  lost  seven  men,  and  fifteen 
thousand  dollars'  worth  of  merchandise  on  the  Yellowstone  River.  A  few  years 
previous,  Major  Henry  lost,  on  the  Missouri  River,  six  men  and  fifty  horses. 
In  the  sketch  tjiven  of  Smith's  trading  adventures  is  shown  how  uncertain  were 
life  anil  property  at  a  later  period.  Ot  the  two  hundred  men  whom  Wyeth 
•"^  i-to  the  Indian  country,  only  about  forty  were  alive  at  the  end  of  three 
Tliere  was,  indeed,  a  constant  state  of  warfare  betwcien  the  Indians 
ai..  ,.e  whites,  wherever  the  American  Companies  hunted,  in  which  great 
numbers  of  both  lost  their  lives.  Add  to  this  cause  of  decimation  the  perils 
from  wild  beasts,  famine,  cold,  and  all  manner  of  accidents,  and  the  trapper's 
chance  of  life  was  about  one  in  three. 

Of  the  causes  which  have  produced  the  enmity  of  the  Indians,  there  are 
about  as  many.  It  was  found  to  be  the  case  almost  universally,  that  on  the 
first  visit  of  the  whites  the  natives  were  friendly,  after  their  natural  fears  had 
been  allayed.  But  by  degrees  their  cupidity  was  excited  to  possess  themselves 
of  the  much  coveted  dress,  arms,  and  goods  of  their  visitors.  As  they  had 
little  or  nothing  to  offer  in  exchange,  which  the  white  man  considered  an  equiva- 
lent, they  took  Jie  only  method  remaining  of  gratifying  their  desire  of  possess- 
ion, and  stole  the  coveted  articles  which  they  could  not  purchase.  When  they 
learned  that  the  white  men  punished  theft,  they  murdered  to  preveni  the  pun- 
ishment. Often,  also,  they  had  wrongs  of  their  own  to  avenge.  White  men 
did  not  always  regard  their  property-rights.  They  were  guilty  of  infamous 
conduct  toward  Indian  women.  What  one  party  of  whites  told  them  was  true, 
another  plainly  contradicted,  leaving  the  lie  between  them.  They  were  over- 
bearing toward  the  Indians  on  their  own  soil,  exciting  to  irrepressible  hostility 
the  natural  jealousy  of  the  inferior  toward  the  superior  race,  where  both  are 
fi-ee,  which  characterizes  all  people.  Jn  short,  the  Indians  were  not  without 
their  grievances ;  and  from  barbarous  ignorance  and  wrong  on  one  side,  and 
intelligent  tArrong-doing  on  the  other,  together  with  the  misunderstandings  likely 
to  arise  between  two  entirely  distinct  races,  gi-ew  constantly  a  thousand  abuses, 
•which  resulted  in  a  deadly  enmity  between  the  two. 

For  several  reasons  this  evil  existed  to  a  greater  degree  among  the  American 
traders  and  trappers  than  among  the  British.  Tlie  American  trapper  was  not, 
like  the  Iludson'f?  Bay  employees,  bred  to  the  i  usiness.  Oftener  than  any 
other  way  he  was  some  wild  youth  who,  after  an  ct  capade  in  the  society  of  his 
native  place,  sought  safety  from  reproach  or  punishment  in  the  wildernc^  Or 
he  was  some  disappointed  man  who,  with  feelings  embittered  towards  his  fellows, 
preferred  the  seclusion  of  the  forest  and  mountain.  Many  were  of  a  class  dis- 
reputable everywhere,  who  gladly  embraced  a  life  not  subject  to  social  laws. 
A  few  were  brave,  independent,  and  hardy  spirits,  who  delighte<l  in  the  hard- 
ships and  wild  adventures  their  calling  made  necessary.  All  these  men,  the 
best  with  the  worst,  were  subject  to  no  will  but  their  own ;  and  all  experience 
goes  to  prove  that  a  life  of  perfect  liberty  is  apt  to  degenerate  into  a  life  of 


•1-  '.>''■' 


HEAVY  LOSS   OP  LIFE. 


39 


license.  Even  their  own  lives,  and  those  of  their  companions,  when  it  depended 
uj)on  their  own  prudence,  were  but  liglitly  considered.  The  constant  presence 
of  danger  made  them  reckless.  It  is  easy  to  conceive  how,  under  these  cir- 
cumstances, the  natives  and  the  foreigners  grew  to  hate  each  other,  in  the 
Indian  country ;  especially  after  tha  Americans  came  to  the  determination  to 
"  shoot  an  Indian  at  sight,"  unless  he  belonged  to  some  tribe  with  whom  they 
had  intermarried,  after  the  manner  of  the  traj)pers. 

On  the  other  hand,  the  employees  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  were  many 
of  them  half-breeds  or  full-blooded  Indians  of  the  Iroquois  nation,  towards 
whom  nearly  all  the  tribes  were  kindly  disposed.  Even  the  Frenchmen  who 
trapped  for  this  company  were  well  liked  by  the  Indians  on  account  of  their 
suavity  of  manner,  and  the  ease  with  which  they  adapted  themselves  to  savage 
life.  Besides  most  of  them  had  native  wives  and  half-breed  children,  and  were 
regarded  as  relatives.  They  were  trained  to  the  life  of  a  trapper,  were  subject 
to  the  will  of  the  Company,  and  were  generally  just  and  equitable  in  their  deal- 
ings with  the  Indians,  according  to  that  company's  will,  and  the  dictates  of 
prudence.     Here  was  a  wide  difference. 

Notwithstanding  this,  there  were  many  dangers  to  be  encoimtered.  The 
hostility  of  some  of  the  tribes  could  never  be  overcome;  nor  has  it  ever  abated. 
Such  were  the  Ci'ows,  the  Blackfeet,  the  Cheyennes,  the  Apaches,  the  Caman- 
ches.  Only  a  superior  force  could  compel  tlie  friendly  offices  of  these  tribes 
for  any  white  man,  and  then  their  treachery  wr  5  ae  dangerous  as  their  open 
hostility. 

It  happened,  therefore,  that  although  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  lost  com- 
paratively few  men  by  the  hands  of  the  Indians,  they  sometimes  found  them 
inipl.acable  foes  in  common  with  the  American  trappers ;  and  frequently  one 
party  was  very  glad  of  the  others'  assistance.  Altogether,  as  has  before  been 
stated,  the  loss  of  life  was  immense  in  proportion  to  the  number  employed. 

Very  few  of  those  who  had  spent  years  in  the  Rocky  Mountains  ever  returned 
to  the  United  States.  With  their  Indian  wives  and  half-breed  children,  they 
scattered  themselves  throughout  Oregon,  until  when,  a  number  of  years  after 
the  abandonment  of  the  fur  trade.  Congress  donated  large  tracts  of  land  to 
actual  settlers,  they  laid  claim,  each  to  his  selected  portion,  and  became  active 
citizens  of  their  adopted  state. 


'  ¥ 

;;'';-il; 


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f:  1 1'-'-'  :  '<•'-■•    c 


il 


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boiXiif'^J  -.mI,V;\,),      ■■^J^^i.';     .l;?*!    •'';:•;,•;>    iJi-lU    ..,>■:,     ; 


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t 

■ 

EAULY   LIFE    OF   JOaEPH   L.    MEEK. 


m 


i.,:i 


'■'  '  .  ' 


■I...,  -'j: 


CHAPTER    I. 


I ;. ;  . 


Ill 


As  has  been  stated  in  the  Introduction,  Joseph  L.  Meek 
was  a  native  of  Washington  Co.,  Va.  Born  in  the  early- 
part  of  the  present  century,  and  brought  up  on  a  planta- 
tion where  the  utmost  liberty  was  accorded  to  the  "young 
raassa;"  preferring  out-door  sports  with  the  youthful 
bondsmen  of  his  father,  to  study  with  the  bald-headed 
schoolmaster  who  furnished  him  the  alphabet  on  a  paddle ; 
possessing  an  exhaustless  fund  of  waggish  humor,  united 
to  a  spirit  of  adventure  and  remarkable  personal  strength, 
he  unwittingly  furnished  in  himself  the  very  material  of 
which  the  heroes  of  the  wilderness  were  made.  Virginia, 
"the  mother  of  Presidents,"  has  furnished  many  such  men, 
who,  in  the  early  days  of  the  now  populous  Western  States, 
became  the  hardy  frontiers-men,  or  the  fearless  Indian 
fighters  who  were  the  bone  and  sinew  of  the  land. 

When  young  Joe  was  about  eighteen  years  of  age,  he 
wearied  of  the  monotony  of  plantation  life,  and  jumping 
into  the  wagon  of  a  neighbor  who  was  going  to  Louis, 
ville,  Ky.,  started  out  in  life  for  himself  He  "reckoned 
they  did  not  grieve  for  him  at  home;"  at  which  conclu- 
sion others  besides  Joe  naturally  arrive  on  hearing  v.f  his 
heedless  disposition,  and  utter  contempt  for  the  ordinary 
and  useful  employments  to  which  other  men  ap})ly  them- 
selves. This  truly  Virginian  and  chivalric  contempt  for 
"  honest  labor  "  has  continued  to  distinguish  him  through- 
out his  eventful  career,  even  while  performing  the  most 
arduous  duties  of  the  life  hd  had  chosen. 


^   r) 


m 


•:hm 


4! 


HE    ENLISTS   IN   A   FUIt    COMPANY, 


Joe  probably  believed  that  should  his  lather  grieve  for 
him,  his  step-mother  would  be  able  to  console  him;  this 
step-mother,  though  a  pious  and  good  Avoman,  not  being 
one  of  the  lad's  favorites,  as  might  easily  be  conjectured. 
It  was  such  thoughts  as  these  that  kept  up  his  resolution 
to  seek  the  far  west.  In  the  autumn  of  1828  he  arrived 
in  St.  Louis,  and  the  following  sprihg  he  fell  in  with  Mr. 
Wm.  Sublette,  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  Fur  Company,  who 
was  making  his  annual  visit  to  that  frontier  town  to  pur- 
chase merchandise  for  the  Indian  country,  and  pick  up  re- 
cruits for  the  fur-hunting  service.  To  this  experienced 
leader  he  offered  himself.  :'{* ^;,,lw.„:.'^v^t,■,. 


■iiiu: 


V^>':" 


^^'■  f^v 


■  ■',   i>Kv   f/i'i-y  ^^\in'(:,. 


THE   ENLISTMENT. 


"  How  old  are  you  ?"  asked  Sublette. 
'^-  "  A  little  past  eighteen." 

"  And  you  want  to  go  to  the  Rocky  Mountains  ?" 
"Yes." 


ON   THE   MARCH — CAMP  LIFE. 


43 


"You  don't  know  what  you  are  talking  about,  boy. 
You'll  be  killed  before  you  get  half  way  there."  ' 

"If  I  do,  I  reckon  I  can  die!"  said  Joe,  with  a  flash  of 
his  full  dark  eyes,  and  throwing  back  his  shoulders  to  show 
their  breadth. 

"  Come,"  exclaimed  the  trader,  eyeing  the  youthful  can- 
didate with  admiration,  and  perhaps  a  touch  of  pity  also ; 
"that  is  the  game  spirit.  I  think  you'll  do,  after  all. 
Only  be  prudent,  and  keep  your  wits  about  you." 

"Where  else  should  they  be?"  laughed  Joe,  as  he 
maiched  off,  feeling  an  inch  or  two  taller  than  before. 

Then  commenced  the  business  of  preparing  for  the  jour- 
ney— making  acquaintance  with  the  other  recruits — enjoy- 
ing the  novelty  of  owning  an  outfit,  being  initiated  into 
the  mysteries  of  camp  duty  by  the  few  old  hunters  who 
were  to  accompany  the  expedition,  and  learning  some- 
thing of  their  swagger  and  disregard  of  civilized  observ- 
ances. 

On  the  17th  of  March,  1829,  the  company,  numbering 
about  sixty  men,  left  St.  Louis,  and  proceeded  on  horses 
and  mules,  with  pack-horses  for  the  goods,  up  through  the 
state  of  Missouri.  Camp-life  commenced  at  the  start ;  and 
this  being  the  season  of  the  year  when  the  weather  is 
most  disagreeable,  its  romance  rapidly  melted  away  with 
the  snow  and  sleet  which  varied  the  sharp  spring  wind 
and  the  frequent  cold  rains.  The  recruits  went  through 
all  the  little  mishaps  incident  to  the  business  and  to  their 
inexperience,  such  as  involuntary  somersaults  over  the 
heads  of  their  mules,  bloody  noses,  bruises,  dusty  faces, 
bad  colds,  accidents  in  fording  streams, — yet  withal  no 
very  serious  hurts  or  hindrances.  Rough  weather  and  se- 
vere exercise  gave  them  wolfish  appetites,  which  sweet- 
ened the  coarse  camp-fare  and  amiteur  cooking. 

Getting  up  at  four  o'clock  of  a  March  morning  to  kmdle 


i 


m 


■M 


44 


A    WARNING    VOICE. 


:»'»iaj 


M; 


li-i 


fires  and  attend  to  the  animals  was  not  the  most  delect- 
able duty  that  our  labor-despising  young  recruit  could 
have  chosen ;  but  if  he  repented  of  the  venture  he  had 
made  nobody  was  the  wiser.  Sleeping  of  stormy  nights 
in  corn-cribs  or  under  sheds,  could  not  be  by  any  stretch 
of  imagination  converted  into  a  highly  romantic  or  heroic 
mode  of  lodging  one's  self  The  squalid  manner  of  living 
of  the  few  inhabitants  of  Missouri  at  this  period,  gave  a 
forlorn  aspect  lo  the  country  which  is  lacking  in  the  wil- 
derness itself; — a  thought  which  sometimes  occurred  to 
Joe  like  a  hope  for  the  future.  Mountain-fare  he  began 
to  think  must  be  better  than  the  boiled  corn  and  pork  of 
the  Missourians.  Antelope  and  buffalo  meat  were  more 
suitable  viands  for  a  hunter  than  coon  and  opossum. 
Thus  those  very  duties  which  seemed  undignified,  and 
those  hardships  without  danger  or  glory,  which  marked 
the  beginning  of  his  career  made  him  ambitious  o^  a  more 
free  and  hazardous  life  on  the  plains  and.  in  the  moun- 
tains. 

Among  the  recruits  was  a  young  man  not  far  from  Joe's 
own  age,  named,  Robert  Newell,  from  Ohio.  One  morn- 
ing, when  the  company  was  encamped  near  Boonville,  the 
two  young  men  were  out  looking  for  their  mules,  when 
they  encountered  an  elderly  woman  returning  from  the 
milking  yard  with  a  gourd  of  milk.  Newell  made  some 
remark  on  the  style  of  vessel  she  carried,  when  she  broke 
out  in  a  sharp  voice, — 

"Young  chap,  I'll  bet  you  run  oiF  from  your  mother! 
Who'll  mend  them  holes  in  the  elbow  of  your  coat? 
You're  a  purty  looking  chap  to  go  to  the  mountains, 
among  them  Injuns !  They'll  Icill  you.  You'd  better  go 
back  home!" 

Considering  that  these  h'ontier  people  knew  what  In- 
dian fighting  was,  this  was  no  doubt  sound  and  disinter- 


m 


^ 


LAST    VEariOR    OF    CIVILIZATION. 


^m 


osted    advice,   notwithstanding  it  was    given    somewhat 
.sharply.     And  so  the  young  men  felt  it  to  be ;  but  it  waa  , 
not  in  the  nature  of  either  of  them  to  turn  buck  from  a 
course  because  there  was  danger  in  it.     The  thought  of  r 
home,   and  somebody  to  mend  their  coats,  was,  however,  i 
for  the  time  strongly  presented.     But  the  company  moved  , 
on,  with  undiminished  numbers,  stared  at  by  the  few  in-  :; 
habitants,  and  having  their  own  little  adventures,  until  , 
they  came  to  Independence,  the  last  station  before  com-  {, 
mitting  themselves  to  the  wilderness.  , 

At  this  place,  which  contained  a  dwelling-hcuse,  cotton-  . 
gin,  and  grocery,  the  camp  tarried  for  a  few  days  to  adjust  j 
the  packs,  and  prepare  for  a  final  start  across  the  plains,   i 
On  Sunday  the  settlers  got  together  for  a  shooting-match,  . 
iu  which  some  of   the  travelers  joined,  without  winning  ,' 
many     laurels.       Coon-skins,     deer-skins,   and    bees-wax  . 
changed  hands  freely  among  the  settlers,  whose  skill  with  .; 
the  rifle  was  greater  than  their  hoard  of  silver  dollars. 
This  was  the  last  vestige  of  civilization  which  the  com- 
pany could  hope  to  behold  for  years ;  and  rude  as  it  was, 
yet  won  from  them  many  a  parting  look  as  they  finally 
took  their  way  across  the  plains    toward  the  Arkansas 
River. 

Often  on  this  part  of  the  march  a  dead  silence  fell  upon 
the  party,  which  remained  unbroken  for  mil<  -  c "  the  way. 
Many  no  doubt  were  regretting  homes  by  them  abandoned, 
or  wondering  dreamily  how  many  and  whom  of  that  com- 
pany would  ever  see  the  Missouri  country  again.  Many 
indeed  went  the  way  the  woman  of  the  gourd  had  prophe- 
sied;  but  not  the  hero  of  this  story,  nor  his  comrade 

Newell.  ^  ..  Ktfisji?u  ■<i^tiSi- 

The  route  of  Captain  Sublette  led  across  the  country 
from  near  the  mouth  of  the  Kansas  River  to  the  River  Ar- 
kansas ;  thence  to  the  South  Fork  of  the  Platte ;  thence 


:/' 


it 


4» 


CAMP   SrnntlSKD    by    IXDIAXfl. 


/'■ 


on  to  tlio  North  Fork  of  that  Rivor,  to  Avhoro  Ft.  Lin-junifl 
now  .stauda;  tlieiico  up  the  Mmth  Fork  to  the  Sweetwater, 
and  theiiee  across  in  a  still  northwesterly  direction  to  the 
head  of  Wind  River. 

The  manner  of  camp-travel  is  now  so  well  known 
through  the  writings  of  Irving,  and  still  more  from  the 
great  numbers  which  have  crossed  the  plains  since  Astoria 
and  Bonneville  were  written,  that  it  would  be  superfluous 
here  to  enter  upon  a  particular  description  of  a  train  on 
that  journey.  A  strict  half-military  discipline  had  to  be 
maintained,  regular  duties  assigned  to  each  person,  pre- 
cautions taken  against  the  loss  of  animals  c  'er  by  stray- 
ing or  Indian  stampeding,  etc.  Some  ol  men  Averc 
appointed  as  cam[)-keepers,  who  had  all  tncse  things  to 
.look  after,  besides  standing  guard.  A  few  were  se- 
lected as  hunters,  and  these  were  free  to  come  and  go,  as 
their  calling  required.  None  but  the  most  experienced 
were  chosen  for  hunters,  on  a  march;  therefore  our  re- 
cruit could  not  aspire  to  that  dignity  yet. 

The  first  adventure  the  company  met  with  worthy  of 
m,ention  after  leaving  Independence,  was  in  crossing  the 
country  between  the  Arkansas  and  the  Platte.  Here  the 
camp  Wi'.3  surprised  one  morning  by  a  band  of  Indians  a 
thousand  strong,  that  came  sweoy)ing  down  upon  them  in 
such  -warlike  style  that  even  Captniii  Sublette  was  fiin  to 
believe  it  his  last  battle.  Upon  the  open  prairie  there  is 
no  such  thing  as  flight,  nor  any  cover  under  which  to  con- 
ceal a  party  even  for  a  few  moments.  It  is  always  ^^hi 
or  die,  if  the  assailants  are  in  the  humor  for  war. 

Happily  on  this  occasion  the  band  proved  to  be  more 
peaceably  disposed  than  their  appearance  indicated,  being 
the  warriors  of  several  tribes — the  Sioux,  Arapahoes,  Kio- 
was,  and  Cheyennes,  who  had  been  holding  a  council  to 
consider  probably  what  mischief  they  could  do  to  some 


A    riUM    FUONT — A    PAHLKY. 


4t 


utluM-  tribos.  The  spectacle  they  presented  as  they  (^aine 
lit  full  speed  on  horseback,  armed,  painted,  brandisliing 
tlieir  weaj)ons,  and  yellinfj^  in  lirst  rate  Indian  style,  was 
one  which  might  well  strike  with  a  palsy  the  stoutest 
heart  and  arm.  What  were  a  band  of  sixty  men  against 
a  thousand  armed  warrioi-s  in  full  lighting  trim,  with 
s[)ears,  shields,  bows,  battle-axes,  and  not  a  few  guns? 

But  it  is  the  rule  of  the  mountain-men  to  pjht — and 
that  there  is  a  chance  for  life  until  the  breath  is  out  of  the 
l)()(ly ;  therefore  Captain  Sublette  had  his  little  force 
drawn  up  in  line  of  battle.  On  came  the  savages,  whoop- 
ing and  swinging  their  weapons  above  their  heads.  Sub- 
lette turned  to  his  men.  "When  you  hear  my  shot,  then 
lire."  Still  they  came  on,  until  within  about  fifty  paces 
of  the  line  of  wail  ing  men.  Sul^lette  turned  his  head,  and 
saw  his  command  with  their  guns  all  up  *to  their  faces 
leady  to  fire,  then  raised  his  own  gun.  Just  at  this  mo- 
ment the  principal  chief  sprang  off  his  horse  and  laid  his 
weapon  on  the  ground,  making  signs  of  peace.  Then  fol- 
lowed a  talk,  and  after  the  giving  of  a  considerable  pres- 
ent, Sublette  was  allowed  to  depart.  This  he  did  with  all 
dispatch,  the  company  putting  as  much  distance  as  possi- 
ble between  themselves  and  their  visitors  before  making 
their  next  camp.  Considering  the  warlike  character  of 
these  tribes  and  their  superior  numbers,  it  was  as  narrow 
an  escape  on  the  part  of  the  company  as  it  was  an  excep- 
tional freak  of  generosity  on  the  part  of  the  savages  to 
allow  it.  But  Indians  have  all  a  great  respect  for  a  man 
who  shows  no  fear ;  and  it  was  most  probably  the  warlike 
movement  of  Captain  Sublette  and  his  party  which  in- 
'^pired  a  willingness  on  the  part  of  the  chief  to  accept  a 
present,  when  he  had  the  power  to  have  taken  the  whole 
train.  Besides,  according  to  Indian  logic,  the  present 
cost  him  nothing,  and  it  might  cost  him  many  warriors  ta 


'if 

m 


.  /| 


'  1 


i,  i  1 


\;4 


m»v' 


48 


THE    SUMMER    RENDEZVOUS. 


capture  the  train.  Ilud  there  been  the  least  wavering  on 
Sublette's  part,  or  fear  in  the  countenances  of  his  men,  the 
end  of  the  affair  would  have  been  different.  This -adven- 
ture was  a  grand  initiation  of  the  raw  recruits,  giving 
them  both  an  insight  into  savage  modes  of  attack,  and  an 
opportunity  to  t-ist  their  own  nerve. 

The  company  proceeded  without  accident,  and  arrived, 
about  the  first  of  -Tuly,  at  the  rendezvous,  which  was  ap- 
pointed for  this  year  on  the  Popo  Agie,  one  of  the  streams 
which  form  the  head-waters  of  Bighorn  River. 

Now,  indeed,  young  Joe  hdd  an  opportunity  of  seeing 
something  of  the  life  upon  which  he  had  entered.  As 
customary,  when  the  traveling  partner  arrived  at  rendez- 
vous with  the  year's  merchandise,  there  was  a  meeting  of 
ail  the  partners,  if  they  were  within  rea^'h  of  the  appcmted 
place.  On  this  occasion  Smith  was  ivbsent  on  his  tour 
through  California  and  Western  Oregon,  as  h.is  been 
related  in  the  prefator}'"  chapter.  Jackson,  the  resident 
partner,  and  commander  for  the  p/'^vious  year,  was  not 
yet  in ;  and  Sublette  had  just  arrived  witlv  the  goods 
from  St.  Louis. 

All  the  different  hunting  and  trapping  parties  and  In- 
dian allies  were  gathered  together,  so  that  the  camp  con- 
tained several  hundred  men,  with  their  riding  and  pack- 
horses.  Nor  were  Indian  women  and  children  wanting  to 
give  variety  and  an  appearance  of  domesticity  to  the 
scene. 

The  Summer  reridezvous  was  always  chosen  in  some 
valley  where  there  was  grass  for  the  aiiimals,  and  game 
for  the  camp.  The  plnins  along  the  Popo  Agie,  besides 
furnishing  these  necessary  bounties,  were  bordered  by  pic- 
turesque mountain  ranges,  whose  naked  bluffs  of  red  sand- 
stone glowed  in  the  morning  and  evening  sun  with  a  mel- 
lowness of  coloring  charming  to  the  eye  of  the  Virginia 


1 


<9f 


Si! 


si 

N 


i 


L 


i 


I  .ia 


recruit 
wild  f 
wliite  ( 
ing  ani 
the  i?i 
motley 
murmn 
ited  an 


cou 


^1 


Bit 

All  ve 
full  an 
genera 
very  c( 
year's 
huiidre 

The 
greatly 
regulai 
trap  fo 
quired 
the  pa 
his  con 
load  th 
do  any 
vice  he 
horses, 
outfit,  ] 
dollars 

Ther 
nishcd 
and  wl 

*  Loadt 
from  the  ( 


AN    ENCHANTING   PICTURE. 


49 


recruit.  The  waving  grass  of  the  plain,  variegated  with 
wild  flowers;  the  clear  summer  heavens  flecked  with 
white  clouds  that  threw  soft  shr,dows  in  passing ;  the  graz- 
ing animals  scattered  about  the  meadows;  the  lodges  of 
the  Booshivay.%^  around  which  clustered  the  camp  in 
motley  garb  and  brilliant  coloring ;  gay  laughter,  and  the 
murmur  of  soft  Indian  voices,  all  made  up  a  most  spir- 
ited and  enchanting  picture,  in  which  the  eye  of  an  artist 
couM  not  fail  to  delight. 

B'lt  as  the  goods  were  opened  the  scene  grew  livelier. 
All  T/ere  eager  to  purchase,  most  of  the  trappers  to  the 
full  amount  of  their  years  wages;  and  some  of  them, 
generally  free  trappers,  went  in  debt  to  the  company  to  a 
very  considerable  amount,  after  spending  the  value  of  a 
year's  labor,  privation,  and  danger,  at  the  rate  of  several 
hundred  dollars  in  a  single  flay. 

The  difFerence  between  .4  hired  and  a  free  trapper  wns 
greatly  in  favor  of  the  latter.  Th<>  liired  trapper  was 
regularly  indentured,  and  bound  aot  only  to  hunt  and 
trap  for  his  employers,  but  also  to  peiform  any  duty  re- 
quired of  him  in  camp.  The  Booshway,  or  the  trad<  ,  or 
the  partisan,  (leader  of  the  detachment,)  harl  him  under 
his  command,  to  make  him  take  charge  of,  ioad  and  un- 
load the  horses,  stand  guard,  cook,  hunt  fuel,  or,  in  short, 
do  any  and  every  duty.  In  return  for  this  toil^'  ^e  ser- 
vice he  received  an  outfit  of  traps,  arms  and  fc  amnition, 
horses,  rnd  whatever  his  service  required.  Besides  his 
outfit,  he  received  no  more  than  three  or  four  hundred 
dollars  a  year  as  wages. 

There  was  also  a  class  of  free  trappers,  who  were  fur- 
nished with  their  outfit  by  the  company  they  trapped  for, 
and  who  were  obliged  to  agree  to  a  certain  stipulated 


p!rtKrT73 


*  Leaders  or  cliiufs — corrupted  from  the  Freiwih  of  Bourgc  is,  and  borrowed 
from  the  Canadians. 


ii  ^ 


50 


THK    FREE    TUAPPER  S    INDIAN    WIFE, 


{jrice  for  their  furs  before  the  hunt  commenced.  Blut  the 
g-enuine  free  trapper  regarded  himself  as  greatly  the  su- 
perior of  either  of  the  foregoing  classes.  He  had  his  own 
horses  and  accoutrements,  arms  and  ammunition.  He 
took  what  route  he  thought  ft,  hunted  and  trapped  when 
and  'where  he  chose ;  traded  with  the  Indians ;  sold  his 
furs  to  whoever  offered  highest  for  them ;  dressed  fiaunt- 
ingly,  and  generally  had  an  Indian  wife  and  half-breed 
children.  They  prided  themselves  on  their  hardihood 
and  courage ;  even  on  their  recklessness  and  profligacy. 
Each  claimed  to  own  the  best  horse;  to  have  had  the 
wildest  adventures;  to  have  made  the  most  nairow  es- 
capes ;  to  have  killed  the  greatest  number  of  bears  and  In- 
dians ;  to  be  the  greatest  favorite  with  the  Indian  belles, 
the  greatest  consumer  of  alcohol,  and  to  have  the  most 
money  to  spend,  ?.  e.  the  largest  credit  on  the  books  of 
the  company.  If  his  hearers  did  not  believe  hi:n,  he  was 
ready  to  run  a  race  wnth  him,  to  beat  him  at  "old  sledge," 
or  to  fight,  if  fighting  was  preferred, — ready  to  prove 
what  he  affirmed  in  any  manner  the  company  pleased. 

If  the  free  trapper  had  a  wife,  she  moved  wnth  the 
camp  to  ^vhich  lie  attached  himself,  being  furnished  with 
a  fine  horse,  caparisoned  in  the  gayest  and  costliest  man- 
ner. Her  dress  was  of  the  finest  goods  the  market  af- 
forded, and  was  suitably  ornamented  with  beads,  ribbons, 
fringes,  and  feathers.  Her  rark,  too,  as  a  free  trapper's 
wife,  gave  her  consequence  not  only  in  her  own  eyes,  but 
in  those  of  her  tribe,  and  protected  her  from  that  slavish 
drudgery  to  which  as  the  ife  of  an  Indian  hunter  or  war- 
rior she  would  have  beon  subject.  The  cnly  authority 
which  the  free  trapper  nc-knowledged  was  that  of  his  In- 
dian spouse,  who  generally  ruled  in  the  lo.lge,  i:owever 
her  lord  blustered  outside. 

One  of  the  free  trapper's  special  delights  was  to  take  in 


WILD    CAROUSALS. 


I     'H-iT 


51 


^and  the  raw  recruits,  to  gorge  their  wonder  with  his 
boastful  tales,  and  to  amuse  himself  with  shocking  his  pu- 
pil's civilized  notions  of  propriety.  Joe  Meek  did  not 
escape  this  sort  of  "breaking  in;"  and  if  it  should  appear 
in  the  course  of  this  narrative  that  he  proved  an  apt 
scholar,  it  will  but  illustrate  a  truth — that  high  spirits  and 
fine  talents  tempt  the  tempter  to  win  them  over  to  his 
ranks.  But  Joe  was  not  won  over  all  at  once.  He  be- 
held the  beautiful  spectacle  of  the  encampment  as  it  has 
been  described,  giving  life  and  enchantment  to  the  sum- 
mer landscape,  -changed  into  a  scene  of  the  wildest  ca- 
rousal, going  from  bad  to  .worse,  until  from  harmless 
noise  and  bluster  it  came  to  fighting  and  loss  of  life.  At 
this  first  rendezvous  he  was  shocked  to  behold  the  revolt- 
ing exhibition  of  four  trappers  playing  at  9  game  of  cards 
with  the  dead  body  of  a  comrade  for  a  card-table !  Such 
was  the  indifference  to  all  the  natural  and  ordinary  emo- 
tions which  these  veterans  of  the  wilderness  cultivated  in 
themselves,  and  inculcated  in  those  who  came  under  their 
influence.  Scenes  like  this  at  first  had  the  effect  to  bring 
feelings  of  home-sickness,  while  it  inspired  by  contrast  a 
sort  of  penitential  and  religious  feeling  also.  According 
to  Meek's  account  of  those  early  days  in  the  mountains, 
he  said  some  secret  prayers,  and  shed  some  secret  tears. . 
But  this  did  not  last  long.  The  force  of  example,  and  es- 
pecially the  force  of  ridicule,  is  very  potent  with  the 
young ;  nor  are  we  quite  free  fi'om  their  influence  later  in 
life. 

If  the  gambling,  swearing,  drinking,  and  fighting  at 
first  astonished  and  alarmed  the  unsophisticated  Joe,  he 
found  at  the  same  time  something  to  admire,  and  that  he 
felt  to  1)0  congenial  with  his  own  disposition,  in  the  fearless- 
ness, the  contempt  of  sordid  gain,  the  hearty  merriment 
and  frolicsome  abandon  of  the  better  portion  of  the  men 


f  t  n 


i'TI 


hi 


iri 


;  * 


M 


52 


ROUTINE    OF    CAMP    LIFE. 


about  him.  A  spirit  of  emulation  arose  in  him  to  become 
as  brave  as  the  bravest,  as  hardy  as  the  hardiest,"  and  as 
gay  as  the  gayest,  even  while  his  feelings  still  revoHed  at 
many  things  which  his  heroic  models  were  openly  guilty  of 
If  at  any  time  in  the  future  course  of  this  narrative,  Joe  is 
discovered  to  have  taken  leave  of  his  early  scruples,  the 
reader  will  considerately  remember  the  associations  by 
which  he  was  surrounded  for  years,  until  the  memory  of 
the  pious  teachings  of  his  childhood  was  nearly,  if  not 
quite,  obliterated.  To  "nothing  extenuatp:,  nor  set  down 
aught  in  malice,"  should  be  the  frame  of  mind  in  which 
both  the  writer  and  reader  of  Joe's  adventures  should 
strive  to  maintain  himself 

Before  our  hero  is  ushered  upon  the  active  scenes  of  a 
trapper's  life,  it  may  be  well  to  present  to  j;he  reader  a 
sort  of  cjuide  to  camp  life^  in  order  that  he  may  be  able 
to  understand  some  of  its  technicalities,  as  they  may  be 
casually  mentioned  hereafter. 

When  the  large  camp  is  on  the  march,  it  has  a  leader, 
generally  one  of  the  Booshways,  who  rides  in  advance,  or 
at  the  head  of  the  column.  Near  him  is  a  led  mule,  chosen 
for  its  qualities  of  speed  and  trustworthiness,  on  which 
are  packed  two  small  trunks  that  balance  each  other  like 
panniers,  and  which  contain  the  company's  books,  papers, 
and  articles  of  agreement  with  the  men.  Then  follow 
the  pack  animals,  each  one  bearing  three  packs — one  on 
each  side,  and  one  on  top — so  nicely  adjusted  as  not  to  slip 
in  traveling.  These  are  in  charge  of  certain  men  called 
camp-keepers,  who  have  each  three  of  these  to  look  after. 
The  trappers  and  hunters  have  two  horses,  or  mules,  one 
to  ride,  and  one  to  pack  their  traps.  If  there  are  women 
and  children  in  the  train,  all  are  mounted.  Where  the 
country  is  safe,  the  caravan  moves  in  single  file,  often 
stretching  out  for  half  or  three-quarters  of  a  mile.     At 


CAMPING    AT    NIGHT. 


53 


the  end  of  the  <'olumii  rides  the  second  man,  or  "little 
I3ooshway,"  as  the  men  call  him ;  usually  a  hired  officer, 
whose  business  it  is  to  look  after  the  order  and  condition 
of  the  Avhole  camp.  „ , 

On  arriving  at  a  suitable  spot  to  make  the  night  camp, 
the  leader  stops,  dismounts  in  the  particular  space  which 
is  to  be  devoted  to  himself  in  its  midst.  The  others,  as 
they  come  up,  form  a  circle  ;  the  "  second  man"  bringing 
up  the  rear,  to  be  sure  all  are  there.  He  then  proceeds 
to  appoint  every  man  a  place  in  the  circle,  and  to  exam- 
ine the .  horses'  backs  to  see  if  any  are  sore.  The  horses 
are  then  turned  out,  under  a  guard,  to  graze ;  but  before 
darkness  comes  on  are  placed  inside  the  ring,  and  pick- 
eted by  a  stake  driven  in  the  earth,  or  with  two  feet 
so  tied  together  as  to  prevent  easy  or  free  locomotion. 
The  men  are  divided  into  mosses  :  so  many  trappers  and 
so  many  c  keepers  to  a  mess.  The  business  of  eating 
is  not  a  very  elaborate  one,  where  the  sole  article  of  diet 
is  meat,  either  dried  or  roasted.  By  a  certain  hour  all  is 
c|uiet  in  camp,  and  only  the  guard  is  awake.  At  times 
during  the  night,  the  leader,  or  the  officer  of  the  guard, 
gives  the  guard  a  challenge — 'all's  well !  "  which  is  an- 
swered by  "  all's  well !  " 

In  the  morning  at  daylight,  or  sometimes  not  till  sun- 
rise, according  to  the  safe  or  dangerous  locality,  the  sec- 
ond man  comes  forth  from  his  lodge  and  cries  in  French, 
"  Zeye,  leve,  leve,  leve,  level''''  fifteen  or  twenty  times,  which 
is  the  command  to  rise.  In  about  five  minutes  more  he 
cries  out  again,  in  French,  "Zec/te  Zer/o,  leche  lego!''''  or 
turn  out,  turn  out ;  at  which  command  all  come  out  from 
the  lodges,  and  the  horses  are  turned  loose  to  feed  ;  but 
not  before  a  horseman  has  galloped  all  round  the  camp  at 
some  distance,  and  discovered  every  thing  to  be  safe  in 
the  neighborhood.     Again,  when  the  horses  have  been 


% 


^i 


DIVIDING    THE    vJAME. 


sufficiently  fed,  under  the  eye  of  a  guard,  they  are  driven 
up,  the  pucks  rc})laced,  the  train  mounted,  and  once  more 
it  moves  off,  in  the  order  before  mentioned. 

In  a  settled  camp,  as  in  winter,  there  are  other  regula- 
tions. The  leader  and  the  second  man  occupy  the  same 
relative  positions ;  but  other  minor  regulations  are  ob- 
served. The  duty  of  a  trapper,  for  instance,  in  the  trap- 
ping season,  is  only  to  trap,  and  take  care  of  hi3  own 
horses.  When  he  comes  in  at  night,  he  takes  his  beaver 
to  the  clerk,  and  the  nuuiber  is  counted  offi  and  placed  to 
his  credit.  Not  he,  but  the  camp-keepers,  tiil  <^  off  the 
skins  and  dry  them.  In  the  winter  camp  there  are  six 
persons  to  a  lodge :  four  trappers  and  two  camp-ke(;pers  ; 
therefore  the  trappers  are  well  waited  upon,  theii'  only 
duty  being  to  hunt,  in  turns,  for  the  camp.  When  a  piece 
of  game  is  brought  in, — a  deer,  an  antelope,  or  buffalo 
meat, — it  is  thrown  down  on  the  heap  which  accumulates 
in  front  of  the  Booshway's  lodge  ;  and  the  second,  man 
stands  by  and  cuts  it  up,  or  has  it  cut  up  for  him.  The 
first  man  who  chances  to  come  along,  is  ordered  to  stand 
still  and  turn  his  bapk  to  the  pile  of  game,  while  the 
"little  Booshway  "  lays  hold  of  a  piece  that  has  been  cut 
oif,  and  asks  in  a  loud  voice — "who  will  have  this?" — 
and  the  man  answering  for  him,  says,  "  the  Booshway," 
or  perhaps  "number  six,"  or  "number  twenty" — mean- 
ing certain  messes  ;  and  the  number  is  called  to  come  and 
take  their  meat.  In  this  blind  w^ay  the  meat  is  portioned 
off;  strongly  reminding  one  of  the  game  of  "button, 
button,  who  has  the  button?"  In  this  chance  game  of 
the  meat,  the  Booshway  fares  no  better  than  his  men ; 
unless,  in  rare  instances,  the  little  Booshway  should  indi- 
cate to  the  man  who  calls  off,  that  a  certain  choice  piece 
is  designed  for  the  mess  of  the  leader  or  the  second  man. 

A  gun  is  never  allowed  to  be  fired  in  camp  under  any 


HMOKED    MOCCASINS. 


m 


provocation,  short  of  an  Indian  raid ;  but  the  guns  are 
IVoiiuently  inspected,  to  see  if  tlicy  are  in  order ;  and 
woe  to  the  careless  camp-keeper  who  neglects  this  or  any 
other  duty.  When  the  second  man  conies  around,  and 
linds  a  piece  of  work  imperfectly  done,  whether  it  be 
cleaning  the  firearms,  making  a  hair  rope,  or  a  skin  lodge, 
or  washing  a  horse's  back,  he  does  not  threaten  the 
offender  with  personal  chastisement,  but  calls  up  another 
man  and  asks  him,  "  Can  t/oii  do  this  properly  ? '' 

"Yes,  sir."         •    '  ■■■  i-;  ■,;,.;;,,  .   i^  ,,, 

"  I  will  give  you  ten  dollars  to  do  it ; "  and  the  ten 
dollars  is  set  down  to  the  account  of  the  inefficient  camp- 
keeper.  But  he  does  not  risk  forfeiting  another  ten  dol- 
lars in  the  same  manner. 

In  the  spring,  when  the  camp  breaks  up,  the  skins 
which  have  been  used  all  winter  for  lodges  are  cut  up  to 
make  moccasins :  because  from  their  having  been  thor- 
oughly smoked  by  the  lodge  fires  they  do  not  shrink  in 
wetting,  like  raw  skins.  This  is  an  important  quality  in  a 
moccasin,  as  a  trapper  is  almost  constantly  in  the  water, 
and  should  not  his  moccasins  be  smoked  they  will  close 
upon  his  feet,  in  drying,  like  a  vice.  Sometimes  after 
trapping  all  day,  the  tired  and  soaked  trapper  lies  down 
in  his  blankets  at  night,  still  wet.  But  by-and-by  he  is 
wakened  by  the  pinching  of  his  moccasins,  and  is  obliged 
to  rise  and  seek  the  water  again  to  relieve  himself  of  the 
pain.  For  the  same  reason,  when  spring  comes,  the  trap- 
per is  forced  to  cut  off  the  lower  half  of  his  buckskin 
breeches,  and  piece  them  down  with  blanket  leggins, 
which  he  wears  all  through  the  trapping  season. 

Such  were  a  few  of  the  peculiarities,  and  the  hardships 
also,  of  a  life  in  the  Rocky  Mountains.  If  the  camp  dis- 
cipline, and  the  dangers  and  hardships  to  which  a  raw  re- 
cruit was  exposed,  failed  to  harden  him  to  the  service  in 


!    ■»  tl, 


f  , ' 


"n»^ 


56 


A    "TRIFLING    FELLOW." 


one  year,  he  was  rejected  as  a  "trifling  follow,"  and  sent 
back  to  the  settlement  the  next  year.  It  was  riot  prob- 
able, therefore,  that  the  mountain-man  often  was  detected 
in  complaining  at  his  lot.  If  he  was  miserable,  he  was 
laughed  at ;  and  he  soon  learned  to  laugh  at  his  own  mis- 
eries, as  well  as  to  laugh  back  at  his  comrades. 


)i:a' 


\     >', 


n      :  1  .  ;-i. 


ii^.i-iiA'n-- 


\T->i\V 


''  •,'» 


■[••':(OvV    -CU- 


'IV    -X' 


■V    r::i/.-U,fU  t 


b'. 


;:>,/; 


'i,  ■    •;>)'<..'jn,| 


iw 


.'f:. 


?j;r' 


■i:m  ,  '»i:^''.r'> 


K'C- 


1 '.>;"■     I.! 


,)j,.,.,).j,_ 


•  .-.(■ 


^       ■■    c.i 


i:i<\'  ■  '■',      'Ki.  h'!i,    i  ;.>nr  x 


♦r    '■.«!    'VA 


':>  '-nul 


(<? 


)  V-  '■;': 


;'!?,.;  "?t 


0  ■    -}■' 


U'Ur.--*: 


V)  ?;:;; 


f^'  >  ■:^■',: 


i-ii 


^.;A,:•.)i 


'>(T';i-.-.'i.i 


ts;i$oi!»  v: 


j.;  i;.!.  V 


■'.^wr^;.;. 


is  Ai.-y' 


'  -J  V 


:iji''r 


i>j<n  TiM.MiU'^^ 


»-. 


iH    riji 


■„?  V 


hid 


>r.  :*r 


,.ri-. 


^j  )r:i 


uaij* 


THE   CAMP   IN   MOTION. 


57 


''I.'!':    , 


■M.'.i 


.1 


CHAPTEU    II 


^' 


The  business  of  the  rendezvous  occupied  about  e 
month.  In  this  period  the  men,  Indian  allies,  and  other 
Indian  parties  who  usually  visited  the  camp  at  this  time, 
were  all  supplied  with  goods.  The  remaining  merchandise 
was  adjusted  for  the  convenience  of  the  different  traders 
who  should  be  sent  out  through  all  the  country  traversed 
by  the  company.  Sublette  then  decided  upon  their  routes, 
dividing  up  his  forces  into  camps,  which  took  each  its  ap- 
pointed course,  detaching  as  it  proceeded  small  parties  of 
trappers  to  all  the  hunting  grounds  in  the  neighborhood. 
These  smaller  camps  were  ordered  to  meet  at  certain  times 
and  places,  to  report  progress,  collect  and  cache  their  furs, 
and  "count  noses."  If  certain  parties  failed  to  arrive, 
others  were  sent  out  in  search  for  them. 

This  year,  in  the  absence  of  Smith  and  Jackson,  a  con- 
siderable party  was  dispatched,  under  Milton  Sublette, 
brother  of  the  Captain,  and  two  other  free  trappers  and 
traders,  Frapp  and  Jervais,  to  traverse  the  country  down 
along  the  Bighorn  River.  Captain  Sublette  took  a  large 
party,  among  whom  was  Joe  Meek,  across  the  mount.-iins 
to  trap  on  the  Snake  River,  in  opposition  to  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company.  The  Rocky  Mountain  Fur  Company  had 
hitherto  avoided  this  country,  except  when  Smith  had 
once  crossed  to  the  head-waters  of  the  Snake  with  a  small 
party  of  five  trappers.  But  Smith  and  Sublette  had 
determined  to  oppose   themselves  to  the    British  traders 


!   ■( 


^ll 


wfrnjT'r  -r 


58 


THK    LOrtT    FOUND BEAUTIFUL    8UENERY. 


who  occupied  ho  large  an  extent  of  territory  presumed  to 
be  American ;  and  it  had  been  agreed  between  them  to 
meet  this  year  on  Snake  River  on  Sublette's  rctui'u  I'roni 
St.  Louis,  and  Smith's  from  his  California  tour.  What 
befel  Smith's  party  bclbre  reaching  the  (,\jliimbi;i,  hius 
already  boon  related;  also  his  reception  by  the  1'  i  Ison'a 
Bay  Company,  and  his  (le[)arture  from  Vancouver. 

Sublette  led  his  comi)any  up  the  valley  of  the  Wind 
River,  acro.ss  the  mountains,  and  on  to  the  very  head-waters 
of  the  Lewis  or  Snake  River.  Here  he  fell  in  with  Jack- 
son, in  the  valley  of  Lewis  Lake,  called  Jackson's  JIule, 
and  remained  on  the  borders  of  this  lake  for  some  time, 
waiting  for  Smith,  whose  non-appearance  began  to  ^'^eate 
a  good  deal  of  uneasiness.  At  length  runners  wc  e  dis- 
patched in  all  directions  looking  for  the  lost  Boo.shway. 

The  detachment  to  which  Meek  was  assigned  had  the 
pleasure  and  honor  of  discovering  the  hiding  place  of  the 
missing  partner,  which  was  in  Pierre's  Hole,  a  mountain 
Viilley  about  thirty  miles  long  and  of  half  that  width, 
which  subsequently  was  much  frequented  by  the  camps  of 
the  various  fur  companies.  He  was  found  trapping  and 
exploring,  in  company  with  four  men  only,  one  of  whom 
was  Black,  who  with  him  escaped  from  the  Umpqua  In- 
dians, as  before  related.  •--.    •'         ,.■'•• 

Notwithstanding  the  excitement  and  elation  attendant 
upon  the  success  of  his  party.  Meek  found  time  to  admire 
the  magnificent  scenery  of  the  valley,  which  is  bounded 
on  two  sides  by  broken  and  pictui-esque  ranges,  and  over- 
looked by  that  magnificent  group  of  mountains,  called 
the  Three  Tetons,  towering  to  a  height  of  fourteen  thou- 
sand feet.  This  emerald  cup  set  in  its  rim  of  amethystine 
mountains,  was  so  pleasant  a  sight  to  the  mountain-men 
that  camp  was  moved  to  it  without  delay,  where  it  re- 
mained until  some  time  in  September,  recruiting  its  ani- 
mals and  preparing  for  the  fall  hunt. 


UKJoiciNOrt    IN  i;ami'. 


■') 


'■lit''' 


59 


IFcro  agiiiii  tlie  tnip{)c:-)  in(lul<,fod  in  Ihoir  noisy  sports 
and  ivjoicin;^',  ostensibly  on  account  of  tlie  return  of  th(; 
long-Jibsent  liooshway.  There  was  little  said  of  the  in(ni 
who  had  perished  in  that  nnforiunatc  expcMlition.  "Poor 
fellow!  out  of  luck;"  was  the  usual  burial  rite  which 
I  lie  memory  of  a  dead  comrade  received.  So  much  and 
no  more.  They  could  indidge  in  noisy  rejoicings  over  a 
lost  comrade  restored ;  but  the  dead  one  was  not  men- 
tioned. Nor  was  this  ajjparcntly  heartless  and  heedless 
manner  so  irrational  or  unfeeling  as  it  seemed.  Every- 
body understood  one  thing  in  the  mountains — that  ho  must 
keep  his  life  by  his  own  courage  and  valor,  or  at  the  least 
by  his  own  prudence.  Unseen  dangers  always  lay  in 
wait  for  him.  The  arrow  or  tomahawk  of  the  Indian,  tin; 
blow  of  the  grizzly  bear,  the  mis-step  on  the  dizzy  or  slip- 
pery height,  the  rush  of  boiling  and  foaming  floods,  freez- 
ing cold,  famine — these  were  the  most  common  forms  of 
peril,  yet  did  not  embrace  even  then  all  the  forms  in  which 
Death  sought"  his  victims  in  the  wilderness.  The  avoid- 
ance of  painful  reminders,  such  as  the  loss  of  a  party  of 
men,  was  a  natural  instinct,  involving  also  a  principle  of 
self  defence — since  to  have  weak  hearts  would  be  the 
surest  road  to  defeat  in  the  next  dangerous  encounter. 
To  keep  their  hearts  "big,"  they  must  be  gay,  they  must 
not  remember  the  miserable  fate  of  many  of  their  one-time 
comrades.  Think  of  that,  stern  moralist  and  martinet  in 
propriety !  Your  fur  collar  hangs  in  the  gas-lighted  hall. 
In  your  luxurious  dressing  gown  and  slippers,  by  the 
warmth  of  a  glowing  grate,  you  muse  upon  the  depravity 
of  your  fellow  men.  But  imagine  yourself,  if  you  can,  in 
the  heart  of  an  interminable  wilderness.  Let  the  snow 
be  three  or  four  feet  deep,  game  scarce,  Indians  on  your 
track :  escaped  from  these  dangers,  once  more  beside  a 
camp  fire,  with  a  roast  of  buffalo  meat  on  a  stick  before  it, 

JiUuf  fU;')  9rfj  7ol  giffhiiqrmj  l:»n,fi  afi'.n/ 


ill 


>3 


\  I 


60 


THE    trapper's    PHILOSOPHY. 


V  *  ■ 


and  Bevcral  of  your  companions  similarly  escaped,  uid 
destined  for  the  same  chances  to-morrow,  around  you.  Do 
you  fancy  you  should  give  much  time  to  lamenting  the  less 
Ipcky  fellov/s  who  were  left  behind  frozen,  starved,  or 
scalped?  Not  you.  You  would  be  fortifying  yourself 
against  to-morrow,  when  the  same  terrors  might  lay  in 
wait  for  you.  Jedediah  Smith  was  a  pious  man ;  one  of 
the  few  that  ever  resided  in  the  Rocky  j\fountains,  and  led 
a  band  of  reckltss  trappers ;  but  he  did  not  turn  back 
to  his  camp  whon  he  SdW  it  attacked  on  the  Umpqua, 
nor  stop  to  lament  his  murdered  men.  The  law  of  self 
preservation  is  strong  in  the  wilderness.  "Keep  up  your 
heart  to-day,  for  to-moriow  yr-u  may  die,"  is  the  raotto 
of  the  tra})per. 

In  the  conference  which  took  place  between  Smith  and 
Sublette,  the  former  insisted  that  on  recount  of  the  kind 
services  of  the  Hudson's  Bjiy  Company  toward  himself 
and  the  three  other  survivors  of  his  ptaty,  they  should 
withdraw  their  trappers  and  traders  from  th^  western  side 
of  the  niountains  for  the  present,  so  as  not  to  have  them 
come  in  conflict  with  those  of  that  company.  To  this 
proposition  Sublette  reluctantly  consented,  and  orders 
were  issued  for  moving  once  more  to  the  east,  before  go- 
ing into  winter  camp,  which  was  appointed  for  the  Wind 
River  Valley. 

In  the  meantime  Joe  Meek  was  sent  out  with  a  party  to 
take  his  first  hunt  fo':  beaver  as  a  hired  trapper.  The 
detaclrnient  to  which  he  belonged  trav'^eled  down  Pierre's 
fork,  the  4ream  which  watered  the  valley  of  Pierre's  Hole, 
to  its  junction  w^lh  Lewis'  and  Henry's  forks  where  they 
unite  to  form  the  great  Snake  River.  While  trapping  in 
this  locality  the  party  became  aware  of  the  vicinity  of  a 
roving  band  of  Biackfeet,  and  in  consequence,  redoubled 
their  usual  precautions  while  on  the  march. 


"the  devil's  own." 


The  Blackfeet  were  the  tribe  most  dreaded  in  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  and  went  by  the  name  of  "Bugs  Boys,"  which 
rendered  into  good  English,  meant  "the  devil's  own." 
Tliey  are  now  so  well  Icnown  that  to  mention  their  charac- 
teristics seems  like  repeating  a  "  twice-told  tale ;  "  but  as 
they  will  appear  so  often  in  this  narrative,  Irving'?  account 
of  them  as  he  had  it  from  Bonneville  wdien  he  was  fresh 
from  the  mountains,  will,  after  all,  not  be  out  of  place. 
■'  These  savages,"  he  says,  "  are  the  most  dangerous  ban- 
ditti of  the  mountains,  and  the  inveterate  foe  of  the  trap 
per.  They  are  Ishmaelites  of  the  first  order,  always  with 
\vcapon  in  hand,  ready  for  action.  The  young  braves  of 
the  tribe,  who  are  destitute  of  property,  go  to  war  for 
booty ;  to  gain  horses,  and  acquire  the  means  of  setting 
up  a  lodge,  supporting  a  family,  and  entitling  themselves 
to  a  seat  in  the  public  councils.  The  veteran  warriors 
light  merely  for  the  love  of  the  thing,  and  the  conse- 
quence which  success  gives  them  among  their  joeople. 
They  are  capital  horseir.en,  and  are  generally  well  mounted 
on  short,  stout  horses,  similar  to  the  prairie  ponies,  to  be 
met  with  in  St.  Louis.  When  on  a  war  party,  however, 
they  go  on  foot,  to  enable  them  to  skulk  through  the 
country  with  greater  secrecy;  to  keep  in  thickets  and  ra- 
vines, and  use  more  adroit  subterfuges  and  stratagems. 
Their  mode  of  warfare  is  entirely  by  ambush,  surprise, 
and  sudden  assaults  in  the  night  time.  If  they  succeed 
in  causing  a  panic,  they  dash  forward  with  headlong  fury ; 
if  the  enemy  is  on  the  alert,  and  shows  no  signs  of  fear, 
they  become  wary  and  deliberate  in  their  movements. 

Some  of  them  are  armed  in  the  primitive  style,  with 
bows  and  arrows ;  the  greater  part  have  American  fusees, 
made  after  the  fashion  of  those  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany. These  they  procure  at  the  trading  post  of  the 
American   Fur    Company,  on  Maria's   River,  where  they 


«-,5- 


J' 


62 


CIIAHACTEKISTICS    OF    THE    BLACKFEET. 


traftiC  tlieir  peltries  for  arms,  ammunition,  clothing,  and 
trinl'Cts.  They  are  extremely  fond  of  spirituous  liquors 
and  tobacco,  for  which  nuisances  they  are  ready  to  exchange, 
not  merely  their  guns  and  horses,  but  even  their  wives 
and  daughters.  As  they  are  a  treacherous  race,  and  have 
cherished  a  lurking  hostility  to  the  whites,  ever  since  one 
of  their  tribe  was  killed  by  Mr.  Lewis,  the  associate  of 
General  Clarke,  in  his  exploring  expedition  across  the 
Rocky  jMountains.  the  American  Fur  Company  is  obliged 
constantly  to  keep  at  their  post  a  garrison  of  sixty  or  sev- 
enty men." 

"  Under  the  general  name  of  Blackfeet  are  compre- 
hended several  tribes,  such  as  the  Surcies,  the  Peagans, 
the  Blood  Indians,  and  the  Gros  Ventres  of  the  Prairies, 
who  roam  about  the  Southern  branches  of  the  Yellow- 
stone and  Missouri  Rivers,  together  with  some  other  tribes 
further  north.  The  bands  infesting  the  Wind  River 
Mountains,  and  the  country  adjacent,  at  the  time  of  which 
we  are  treating,  were  Gros  Ventres  of  the  Praines,  which 
are  not  to  be  confounded  with  the  Gros  Ventres  of  the 
Missouri^  who  keep  aboul:  the  lower  part  of  that  river,  and 
are  friendly  to  the  white  men." 

"  This  hostile  band  ke(ips  about  the  head-waters  of  the 
Missouri,  and  numbers  about  nine  hundred  fighting  men. 
Once  in  the  course  of  two  or  three  j'Cars  they  abandon 
their  usual  abodes  and  make  a  visit  to  the  Arapahoes  of 
the  Arkansas.  Their  roi7.te  lies  either  through  the  Crow 
country,  and  the  Black  Hills,  cr  through  the  lands  of  the 
Nez  Perces,  Flatheads,  Bannacks,  and  Shoshonies.  As 
they  enjoy  their  fiivorite  state  of  hostilitj''  with  all  these 
tribes,  their  expeditions  are  prone  to  be  conducted  m  the 
most  lawless  and  predatory  style ;  nor  do  they  hesitate  to 
extend  their  maraudings  to  any  party  of  white  men  they 
meet   with,  following   thinr   trail,  hovering   about   their 


CHAUACTKRISTICS    OP    THE    BLACKFEET. 


63 


camps,  waylaying  and  dogging  the  caravans  of  the  free 
traders,  and  murdering  the  solitary  trapper.  The  conse- 
quences are  frequent  and  desperate  fights  between  them 
and  the  mountaineers,  in  the  wild  defiles  and  fastnesses  of 
the  Itocky  Mountains."  Such  were  the  Blackfeet  at  the 
period  of  which  we  are  writing ;  nor  has  their  character 
changed  at  this  day,  as  many  of  the  Montana  miners  know 
to  their  cost. 


'■•i'-'-.'  ■  hM 


n 


f;     h 


'■  i', 


64 


HOW    THE   BE4.VER   IS   TAKEN. 


CHAPTER    III. 


1830.  Sublette's  camp  commenced  moving  back  to  the 
east  side  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  in  October.  Its  conrse 
was  up  Henry's  fork  of  the  Snake  River,  througli  the  North 
Pass  to  Missouri  Lake,  in  which  rises  the  Madison  fork  of 
tne  Missouri  River.  The  beaver  were  very  plenty  on 
Henry's  fork,  and  our  young  trapper  had  gresit  success  in 
making  u])  his  packs ;  having  learned  the  art  of  setting 
his  traps  very  readily.  The  manner  in  which  the  trapper 
takes  his  game  is  as  follows : — 

He  has  an  ordinary  steel  trap  weighing  five  pounds,  at- 
tached to  a  chain  five  feet  long,  with  a  swivel  and  ring  at 
the  end,  which  plays  round  what  is  called  the  floaty  a  dry 
stick  of  wood,  about  six  feet  long.  The  trapper  wades 
out  into  the  stream,  which  is  shallow,  and  cuts  with  his 
knife  a  bed  for  the  trap,  five  or  six  inches  under  water. 
He  then  takes  the  float  out  the  wliole  length  of  the  chain 
in  the  direction  of  the  centre  of  the  stream,  and  drives  it 
into  the  mud,  so  fast  that  the  beaver  cannot  draw  it  out ; 
at  the  same  time  tying  the  other  end  by  a  thong  to  the 
bank.  A  small  stick  or  twig,  dipped  in  musk  or  castor, 
serves  for  bait,  and  is  placed  so  as  to  hang  directly  above 
the  trap,  which  is  now  set.  The  trapper  then  throws  wa- 
ter plentifully  over  the  adjacent  bank  to  conceal  any  foot 
prints  or  scent  by  which  the  beaver  would  be  alarmed, 
and  going  to  some  distance  wades  out  of  the  stream. 

In  setting  a  trap,  several  things  are  to  be  observed  with 
care : — first,  that  the  trap  is  firmly  fixed,  and  the  proper 


WONDERFUL    INSTIN'CT    OF    THE    BEAVER. 


65 


distance  from  the  bank — for  if  the  beaver  can  get  on 
shore  with  the  trap,  he  will  cut  off  his  foot  to  escape :  sec- 
ondly, that  the  float  is  of  dry  wood,  for  should  it  not  be, 
the  little  animal  will  cut  it  off  at  a  stroke,  and  SAvimming 
with  the  trap  to  the  middle  of  the  dam,  be  drowned  by 
its  weight.  In  the  latter  case,  Avhen  the  hunter  visits  his 
traps  in  the  morning,  he  is  under  the  necessity  of  plung- 
ing into  the  water  and  swimming  out  to  dive  for  the  mis- 
sing trap,  and  his  game.  Should  the  morning  be  frosty 
and  chill,  as  it  very  frequently  is  in  the  mountains,  diving 
for  traps  is  not  the  pleasantcst  exercise.  In  placing  the 
bait,  care  must  be  taken  to  fix  it  just  where  the  beaver  in 
reaching  it  will  spring  the  trap.  If  the  bait-stick  be 
placed  high,  the  hind  foot  of  the  beaver  will  be  caught : 
if  low,  his  fore  foot. 

The  manner  in  which  the  beavers  make  their  dam, 
and  construct  their  lodge,  has  lor.g  been  reckoned  among 
the  "wonders  of  the  animal  creation;  and  while  some 
observers  have  claimed  for  the  little  creature  more  sa- 
gacity than  it  really  possesses,  its  instinct  is  still  suffi- 
ciently wonderful  It  is  certainly  true  that  it  knows  how 
to  keep  the  water  of  a  stream  to  a  certain  level,  by  means 
of  an  obstruction ;  and  that  it  cuts  down  trees  for  the  pur- 
pose of  backing  up  the  water  by  a  dam.  It  is  not  true, 
however,  that  it  can  always  fell  a  tree  in  the  direction  re- 
quired for  this  purpose.  The  timber  about  a  beaver  dam 
is  felled  in  all  directions ;  but  as  trees  that  grow  near  the 
water,  generally  lean  towards  it,  the  tree,  when  cut,  takes 
the  proper  direction  by  gravitation  alone.  The  beaver 
then  proceeds  to  cut  up  the  fallen  timber  into  lengths  of 
al)out  three  feet,  and  to  convey  them  to  the  ?,[;ot  where 
the  dam  is  to  be  situated,  securing  them  in  their  places 
by  means  of  mud  and  stones.  The  work  is  commenced 
when  the  water  is  low,  and  carried  on  as  it  rises,  until  it 


P^ 


:  iiil 


!  m 


m 


'fl 


M 


i .}. 


6'6 


BKAVEK    DAMS FOUMATION    OF    MEADOWS. 


has  attained  the  desired  height.  And  not  only  is  it  made 
of  the  requisite  height  and  strengtli,  but  its  shape  is  suited 
exactly  to  the  nature  of  tlie  stream  in  which  it  is  built. 
If  the  water  is  sluggish  the  dam  is  straight;  if  rapid  and 
turbulent,  the  barrier  is  constructed  of  a  convex  form,  the 
better  to  resist  the  action  of  the  water. 


BEAVEK-1>AM. 


When  the  beavers  have  once  commenced  a  dam,  its  ex 
tent  and  thickness  are  continually  augmented,  not  only  by 
their  labors,  but  by  accidental  accumulations ;  thus  accom- 
modating itself  to  the  size  of  the  growing  community. 
At  length,  after  a  lapse  of  many  yoar.s,  the  water  being- 
spread  over  a  considerable  tract,  and  filled  up  by  yearly 
accumulations  of  drift-wood  and  earth,  seeds  take  root 
in  the  new  made  ground,  and  the  old  beaver-dams  be- 
come green  meadows,  or  thickets  of  cotton-wood  and 
willow. 

The  food  on  which  the  beaver  subsists,  is  the  bark  of 
the  young  trees  in  its  neighborhood;  and  when  laying  up 
a  winter  store,  the  whole  community  join  in  the  labor  of 
selecting,  cutting  up,  and  carrying  the  strips  to  their  store- 


'.:i/. 


IJKAVER    LODGES. 


67 


houses  under  water.  They  do  not,  as  some  writers  have 
affirmed,  when  cutting  wood  for  a  dam  strip  off  the  bark 
and  store  it  in  their  hjdges  for  Avintcr  consumption ;  but 
only  carry  under  water  the  stick  with  the  bark  on. 

"  Tlic  bcivver  has  two  incisors  and  ciffht  niolnrs  in  oach  jaw  ;  and  empty  hol- 
lows where  the  canine  teeth  iniizht  be.  'Ilie  upper  pair  of  cuttiiij^'  teeth  extend 
far  into  tlic  jaw,  with  a  curve  of  rather  more  than  a  semicircle;  and  the  lower 
pair  of  incisors  form  rather  less  than  a  semicircle.  Sometimes,  one  of  these 
teeth  gets  broken  and  then  the  opposite  tooth  continues  growing  until  it  i'orms  a 
nearly  complete  circle.  TJie  chewing  nmsclc  of  the  beaver  is  strengthened  by 
tendons  in  such  a  way  as  to  give  it  great  power.  But  more  is  needed  to  enable 
the  beaver  to  eat  wood.  'ITie  insalivation  of  the  dry  iood  is  provided  for  ijy  the 
extraordinary  size  of  the  salivary  glands. 

"  Now,  every  part  of  these  instniments  is  of  vital  importance  to  the  l)eavers. 
The  loss  of  an  incisor  involves  the  formation  of  an  obstructive  circular  tooth ; 
deficiency  of  saliva  renders  the  food  indigeslibL> ;  and  when  old  age  comes  and 
the  enamel  is  worn  down  faster  than  it  is  renewed,  the  beaver  is  not  longer  able 
to  cut  branches  for  its  support.  Old,  feeble  and  poor,  unable  to  borrow,  and 
ashamed  to  beg,  he  steals  cuttings,  and  subjects  himself  to  the  penalty  assigned 
to  theft.  Aged  beavers  are  often  found  dead  with  gashes  in  their  bodies,  show- 
ing that  they  have  been  killed  by  their  mates.  In  the  fall  of  18G4,  a  very  aged 
beaver  was  caught  in  one  of  the  dams  of  the  E.»conawba  River,  and  this  was  the 
reflection  of  a  great  authority  on  the  occasion,  one  Ah-she-goes,  an  Ojibwa  trap- 
per:  •  Had  he  escapi'd  the  trap  he  would  have  been  killed  before  the  winter  was 
over,  by  other  beavers,  for  stealing  cuttings.' 

When  the  beavers  are  about  two  or  three  years  old,  their  teeth  are  in  their 
best  condition  for  cutting.  On  the  Upper  Missouri,  they  cut  the  cotton  tree  and 
the  willow  bush ;  aroiind  Hudson's  Bay  and  Lake  Superior,  in  addition  to  the 
willow  tliey  cut  the  poplar  and  maple,  hendock,  spruce  and  pine.  The  cutting 
is  round  and  round,  and  deepest  uiK)n  the  side  on  which  they  wish  the  tree  to 
fall.  Indians  and  trappers  liavc  seen  beavers  cutting  trees.  The  felling  of  a 
tree  is  a  family  affair.  No  more  than  a  single  pair  with  two  or  three  young 
ones  are  engaged  at  a  time.  The  adults  take  the  cutting  in  turns,  one  gnawing 
and  the  other  watching;  and  occasionally  a  yoimgster  trying  his  incisors. 
The  beaviT  whilst  gnawing  sits  on  his  plantigrade  hind  legs,  which  keep  liini 
conveniently  upright.  When  the  tree  begins  to  crackle  the  beavers  work  cau- 
tiously, and  when  it  crashes  down  they  i)limge  into  the  pond,  fearful  lest  the 
noise  should  attract  an  enemy  to  the  spot.  After  the  tree-fall,  comes  the  lopping 
of  the  bi-anches.  A  single  tree  may  be  winter  provision  f()r  a  family.  Branches 
five  or  six  inches  thick  have  to  be  cut  into  proper  lengths  for  transport,  and  are 
then  taken  home." 

The  lodge  of  a  beaver  is  generally  about  six  feet  in  di- 


6» 


BACHELOR  B    HALL— TRAPPING    IN    WINTER. 


araeter,  on  the  inside,  and  about  Imlf  as  high.  They  are 
rounded  or  dome-shaped  on  the  outside,  with  very  thick 
walls,  and  communicate  with  the  land  by  subterranean 
])assages,  below  the  depth  at  which  tiie  water  freezes  in 
winter.  Each  lodge  is  made  to  accommodate  several  in- 
mates, who  have  their  beds  ranged  round  the  walls,  nnich 
as  the  Indian  does  in  his  tent.  They  are  very  cleanly, 
too,  and  after  eating,  carry  out  the  sticks  that  have  been 
stripped,  and  either  use  them  in  repairing  their  dam,  or 
throw  them  into  the  stream  below. 

During  the  summer  months  the  beavers  abandon  their 
lodges,  and  disport  themselves  about  the  streams,  some- 
times going  on  long  journeys ;  or  if  any  remain  at  home, 
they  are  the  mothers  of  young  families.  About  the  Ijist 
of  August  the  connnunity  returns  to  its  home,  and  begins 
preparations  for  the  domestic  cares  of  the  long  winter 
months. 

An  exception  to  this  rule  is  that  of  certain  individuals, 
who  have  no  families,  make  no  dam,  and  never  live  in 
lodges,  but  burrow  in  subterranean  tunnels.  They  are  al- 
ways found  to  be  males,  whom  the  French  trappers  call 
"les  parasseux,"  or  idlers;  and  the  American  trappers, 
"bachelors."  Several  of  them  are  sometimes  found  in 
one  abode,  which  the  trappers  facetiously  denominate 
"bachelor's  hall."  Being  taken  with  l.-ss  difficulty  than 
the  more  domestic  beaver,  the  trapper  is  always  glad  to 
come  upon  their  habitations. 

The  trapping  season  is  usually  in  the  spring  and  au- 
tumn. But  should  the  hunters  find  it  necessary  to  con- 
tinue their  work  in  winter,  they  capture  the  beaver  by 
sounding  on  the  ice  until  an  aperture  is  discovered,  when 
the  ice  is  cut  away  and  the  opening  closed  up.  lleturning 
to  the  bank,  they  search  for  the  subterranean  passage,  trac- 
\ng  its  connection  with  the  lodge ;  and  by  patient  watching 


"UP    TO   TRAP    — FIRST    BATTLE    WITH   BLACKFEET. 


69 


succeed  in  catching  the  beaver  on  some  of  its  journeys 
between  the  water  and  the  land.  This,  however,  is  not 
often  resorted  to  when  the  hunt  in  the  fall  has  been  suc- 
cessful ;  or  when  not  urged  by  famine  to  take  the  beaver 
for  food.  '  •  i   >  ^j 

"Occasionally  it  happens,"  says  Captain  Bonneville, 
"  that  several  members  of  a  beaver  family  are  trapped  in 
succession.  The  survivors  then  become  extremely  shy, 
and  can  scarcely  be  "brought  to  medicine,"  to  use  the 
trappers'  phrase  for  "taking  the  bait."  In  such  case,  the 
trapper  gives  up  the  use  of  the  bait,  and  conceals  his  traps 
in  the  usual  paths  and  crossing  places  of  the  household. 
The  be?ver  being  now  completely  "up  to  trap,"  ap- 
[)roaches  them  cautiously,  and  springs  them,  ingeniously, 
^\'ith  a  stick.  At  other  times,  he  turns  the  traps  bottom 
1 1[) wards,  by  the  same  means,  and  occasionally  even  drags 
tliem  to  the  barrier,  and  conceals  them  in  the  mud.  The 
trapper  now  gives  up  the  contest  of  ingenuity,  and  shoul- 
dering his  traps,  marches  off,  admitting  that  he  is  not  yet 
"up  to  beaver."  r..    ., 

Before  the  camp  moved  from  the  forks  of  the  Snake 
River,  the  haunting  Blackfeot  made  their  appearance 
openly.  It  was  here  that  Meek  had  his  first  battle  with 
that  nation,  with  whom  he  subsequently  had  many  a  sav- 
age contest.  They  attacked  the  camp  early  in  the  morn- 
ing, just  as  the  call  to  turn  out  had  sounded.  But  they 
had  miscalculated  their  opportunity :  the  design  having  evi- 
dently been  to  stampede  the  horses  and  mules,  at  the  hour 
and  moment  of  their  being  turned  loose  to  graze.  They 
had  been  too  hasty  by  a  few  minutes,  so  that  when  they 
charged  on  the  camp  pell-mell,  firing  a  hundred  guns  at 
once,  to  frighten  both  horses  and  men,  it  happened  that 
only  a  few  of  the  animals  had  been  turned  out,  and  they 
had  not  yet  got  far  off.  The  noise  of  the  charge  only 
turned  them  back  to  camp. 


I'l.'ji 


H 

PA 


m 


iM 


70 


ON    GUARD — THE   TRAPPERS    RISK. 


Tn  an  instant's  time,  Fitzpatrick  was  mounted,  and  com- 
manding the  men  to  follow,  ho  galloped  at  headlong 
speed  round  and  round  the  eamp,  to  drive  b.ick  such  of  the 
horses  as  were  straying,  or  had  been  frightened  from  their 
pickets.  In  this  race,  two  horses  were  shot  under  him; 
but  he  escaped  and  the  camp-horses  were  saved.  The 
battle  now  was  to  punish  the  thieves.  They  took  their 
position,  as  usual  with  Indian  fighters,  in  a  narrow  ravine; 
from  whence  the  camp  was  forced  to  dislodge  them,  at  a 
great  disadvantage  This  they  did  do,  at  last,  after  six 
hours  of  hard  fighting,  in  which  a  few  men  were  wounded, 
but  none  killed.  The  thieves  skulked  off,  through  the 
canyon,  when  they  found  themselves  defeated,  and  were 
seen  no  more  until  the  camp  came  to  the  woods  which 
cover  the  western  slope  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

But  as  the  camp  moved  eastward,  or  rather  in  a  north- 
easterly direction,  through  the  pine  forests  between  Pier- 
re's Hole  and  the  head-watei's  of  the  Missouri,  it  was  con- 
tinually harrassed  by  Blackfeet,  and  required  a  strong 
guard  at  night,  when  these  marauders  delighted  to  make 
an  attack.  The  weather  by  this  time  was  very  cold  in 
the  mountains,  and  chilled  the  marrow  of  our  young  Vir- 
ginian. The  travel  was  hard,  too,  and  the  recruits  pretty 
well  Avorn  out. 

One  cold  night,  Meek  was  put  on  guard  on  the  further 
side  of  the  camp,  with  a  veteran  named  Reese.  But 
neither  the  veteran  nor  the  youngster  could  resist  the  ap- 
proaches of  "  tired  Nature's  sweet  restorer,"  and  went  to 
sleep  at  their  post  of  duty.  When,  during  the  night, 
Sublette  came  out  of  his  tent  and  gave  the  challenge — 
"  All's  well !  "  there  was  no  reply.  To  quote  Meek's  own 
language,  "  Sublette  came  round  the  horse-pen  swearing 
and  snorting.  He  was  powerful  mad.  Before  he  got  to 
where  Reese  was,  he  made  so  much  noise  that  he  waked 


CLIMMING    TWO    TREES, 


Til 


him;  and  Reose,  in  a  loud  wliisper,  called  to  him,  '  Down, 
Billy!  IndiaiKs!'  Sniblotto  got  down  on  hia  belly  mighty 
(jiiick.     '  Whar '?  whar  V '  he  asked. 

"  '  They  were  right  there  when  you  hollered  so,'  said 
Reese. 

"  'Where  is  Meek?'  whispered  Sublette. 

"  '  He  is  trying  to  shoot  one,'  answered  Reese,  still  in  a 
whisper. 

"  Reese  then  crawled  over  to  whar  I  war,  and  told  me 
what  had  been  said,  and  informed  me  what  to  do.  In  a 
few  niinutts  I  crept  cautiously  over  to  Reese's  post,  when 
Sublette  asked  me  how  many  Indians  had  been  thar,  and 
I  told  him  I  couldn't  make  out  their  number.  In  the 
morning  a  pair  of  Indian  moccasins  war  ibund  whar  Reese 
saio  the  Indians^  which  I  had  taken  care  to  leave  there ; 
and  thus  confirmed,  our  story  got  us  the  credit  of  vigi- 
lance, instead  of  our  receiving  our  just  dues  for  neglect 
of  duty." 

It  was  sometime  during  the  fall  hunt  in  the  Pine  Woods, 
on  the  west  side  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  that  Meek  had 
one  of  his  earliest  adventures  with  a  bear.  Two  com- 
rades, Craig  and  Nelson,  and  himself,  while  out  trapping, 
left  their  horses,  and  traveled  up  a  creek  on  foot,  in  search 
of  beaver.  They  had  not  proceeded  any  great  distance, 
before  they  came  suddenly  face  to  face  with  a  red  bear ; 
so  suddenly,  indeed,  that  the  men  made  a  spring  for  the 
nearest  trees.  Craig  and  Meek  ascended  a  largo  pine, 
which  chanced  to  be  nearest,  and  having  many  limbs,  was 
easy  to  climb.  Nelson  happened  to  take  to  one  of  two 
small  trees  that  grew  close  together  ;  and  the  bear,  fixing 
upon  him  for  a  victim,  undertook  to  climb  after  him. 
With  his  back  against  one  of  these  small  trees,  and  his 
feet  against  the  other,  his  bearship  succeeded  in  reaching 
a  point  not  far  below  Nelson's   perch,   when   the  trees 


■ 

I 
1 

'  1 

f  ' 

'l 

,\        ■ 
1' 

1 

i 

■I 

1   ■( 

72 


A    DlHAIM'OlNTED    BEAU. 


oponod  with  liis  weight,  and  down  ho  wont,  Avitli  a  shock 
tliat  liiiriy  sliook  tlic  ^n-oiind.  Ihit  this  bud  luck  only 
soeiiied  to  iiiruriatu  the  beast,  iiiid  iij)  lio  wont  n^^niii,  with 
tlie  samo  result,  each  time  ahnost  reaching  his  oiioniy. 
With  tlio  second  tumble  he  was  not  the  least  discouraged; 
but  started  up  the  third  time,  only  to  be  diished  once 
more  to  the  ground  when  he  had  attained  a  certain  height. 
At  the  third  I'all,  however,  he  became  thoroughly  dis- 
irusted  with  his  want  of  success,  and  turned  and  ran  at 
lull  speed  into  the  woods.  t  <:  •/ 

"  Then,"  says  Meek,  "  Craig  began  to  sing,  and  T  began 
to  laugh  ;  but  Nelson  took  to  swearing.  '  0  yes,  you  can 
laugh  and  sing  now,'  says  Nelson;  'but  you  war  quiet 
enough  when  the  bear  was  around.'  '  Why,  Nelson,'  I 
answered,  'you  wouldn't  have  us  noisy  before  that  dis- 
tinguished guest  of  yours  ? '  But  Nelson  damned  the 
wild  beast ;  and  Craig  and  1  laughed,  and  said  he  didn't 
seem  wild  a  bit.  That's  the  way  we  hector  each  other  in 
the  mountains.  If  a  man  gets  into  trouble  he  is  only 
laughed  at :  'let  him  keep  out ;  let  him  have  better  luck,' 
is  what  we  say."  '.?-• 

The  country  traversed  by  Sublette  in  the  fall  of  1829, 
was  unknown  at  that  period,  even  to  the  fur  companies, 
they  having  kept  either  farther  to  the  south  or  to  the 
north.  Few,  if  any,  white  men  had  passed  through  it 
since  Lewis  and  Clarke  discovered  the  headwaters  of  the 
Missouri  and  the  Snake  Rivers,  which  flow  from  the  oppo- 
site sides  of  the  same  mountain  peaks.  Even  the  toils 
and  hardships  of  passing  over  mountains  at  this  season  of 
the  year,  did  not  deprive  the  tra})per  of  the  enjoyment 
of  the  magnificent  scenery  the  region  aflbrded.  Splendid 
views,  however,  could  not  long  beguile  men  who  had 
little  to  eat,  and  who  had  yet  a  long  journey  to  accom- 


AI.ONE    IN    THK    MOUNTAINS. 


plish  in  cold,  and  surrounded  by  (lungers,  before  reaching 


111!  \vnil('rni<^'  ground. 


'   I 


III  November  the  ciini|)  left  Missouri  Lake  on  the  east 
side  of  the  mountains,  and  crossed  over,  still  northeasterly, 
oil  to  the  (lallatin  fork  of  the  Missouri  River,  passing  over 
;i  very  rough  and  broken  country.  They  were,  in  fact, 
still  in  the  midst  of  mounlains,  being  sj)urH  of  the  great 
Rocky  range,  and  (MiUiilly  high  aiul  rugged.  A  ])artic- 
iilarly  high  mountain  lay  b(!tween  them  and  the  main 
Yellowstone  River.  This  they  had  just  crossed,  Avith 
^reat  fatigue  and  dilficulty,  and  were  resting  the  camp 
and  horses  for  a  few  days  on  the  river's  bank,  when  the 
Blackfeet  once  more  attacked  them  in  considerable  num- 
l)ors.  Two  men  were  killed  in  this  fight,  and  the  camp 
thrown  into  confusion  by  the  suddenness  of  the  alarm. 
Cai)t.  Sublette,  however,  got  off,  with  most  of  his  men, 
still  pursued  by  the  Indians.  '  "    -  ■  '  * 

Not  so  our  Joe,  who  this  time  was  not  in  luck,  but  was 
cut  of!'  from  camp,  alone,  and  had  to  flee  to  the  high 
mountains  overlooking  the  Yellowstone.  Here  was  a  sit- 
uation for  a  nineteen-year-old  raw  recruit !  Knowing  that 
the  Blackfeet  were  on  the,  trail  of  the  camp,  it  was  death 
to  proceed  in  that  direction.  Some  other  route  must  be 
taken  to  come  up  with  them  ;  the  country  was  entirely 
unknov,m  to  him  ;  the  cold  severe  ;  his  mule,  blanket,  and 
gun,  his  only  earthly  possessions.  On  the  latter  he  de- 
pended for  food,  but  game  was  scarce ;  and  besides,  he 
thought  the  sound  of  his  gun  would  frighten  himself,  so 
alone  in  the  wilderness,  swarming  with  stealthy  foes. 

Hiding  his  mule  in  a  thicket,  he  ascended  to  the  moun- 
tain top  to  take  a  view  of  the  country,  and  decide  upon 
his  course.  And  what  a  scene  was  that  for  the  miser- 
able boy,  whose  chance  of  meeting  with  his  comrades 
again  was  small  indeed !     At  his  feet  rolled  the  Yellow- 


4- 


k 


I 

Hi 


A  miserabir;  night. 


stone  River,  coursing  away  through  the  great  plain  to  the 
eastward.  To  the  north  his  eye  follows  the  windings  of 
the  Missouri,  as  upon  a  map,  but  playing  at  hide-and-seek 
in  amongst  the  mountains.  Looking  back,  he  saw  the 
River  Snake  stretching  its  serpentine  length  through  I'^.va 
plains,  far  away,  to  its  junction  with  the  Columbia.  To 
the  north,  and  to  the  south,  one  white  mountain  rose 
above  another  as  far  as  the  eye  could  r'>ach.  What  a 
mighty  and  magnilicent  world  it  seemed,  to  be  alone  in  ! 
Poor  Joe  succumbed  to  the  influence  of  the  thought,  and 
wept. 

Having  indulged  in  this  sole  remaining  luxury  of  life, 
Joe  picked  up  his  resolution,  and  decided  upon  his  course. 
To  the  southeast  lay  the  Crow  country,  a  land  of  plenty, 
—  as  the  mountain-man  regards  plenty,  —  and  there  he 
could  at  least  live  ;  provided  the  Crows  permitted  him  to 
do  3o.  Besides,  he  had  some  hopes  of  falling  in  with  one 
of  the  camps,  by  taking  that  course. 

Descending  the  mountain  to  the  hiding-place  of  his 
mule,  by  which  time  it  was  dark  night,  hungry  and  freez- 
ing, Joe  still  could  not  light  a  fire,  for  fear  of  revealing  his 
whereabouts  to  the  Indians  ;  nor  could  he  remain  to  per- 
ish with  cold.  Travel  he  must,  and  travel  he  did,  going 
he  scarcely  knew  whither.  Looking  back  upon  the  terrors 
and  discomforts  of  that  night,  the  veteran  mountaineer 
yet  regards  it  as  about  the  most  miserable  one  of  his 
life.  When  day  at  length  broke,  he  had  made,  as  well  as 
he  '  ;iild  estimate  the  distance,  about  thirty  miles.  Trav- 
eling on  toward  the  southeast,  he  had  crossed  the  Yellow- 
stone River,  and  still  among  the  mountains,  was  obliged 
to  abandon  his  mule  and  accoutrements,  retaining  only 
one  blardsct  and  his  gun.  Neither  the  mule  nor  himself 
had  broken  fast  in  the  last  two  days.  j<ec!ping  a  south- 
erly  course   f<-)r  twenty  miles  more,   over  a  rough  and 


AWFUL    SOLITUDE. A    SINGULAR    DISCOVERY. 


75 


elevated  country,  he  came,  ou  the  evening  of  the  third 
(lav,  upon  a  band  of  mountain  slieep.  With  what  eager- 
iK^ss  did  he  hasten  to  kill,  cook,  and  eat !  Three  days  of 
fasting  was,  for  a  novice,  v^^uite  sutiicient  to  provide  him 
with  an  appetite. 

Having  eaten  voraciously,  and  being  quite  overcome 
with  fatigue,  Joe  fell  asleep  in  his  blanket,  and  slumbei'ed 
(|uite  deeply  until  morning.  With  the  morning  came 
biting  blasts  from  the  north,  that  made  motion  necessary 
if  not  pleasant.  Refreshed  by  sleep  and  food,  our  trav- 
eler hastened  on  upon  h^s  solitary  way,  taking  with  him 
whnt  sheep-meat  he  could  carry,  traversing  the  same 
rough  and  mountainous  country  as  before.  No  incidents 
nor  alarms  varied  the  horriljle  and  monotonous  solitude 
of  the  wilderness.  The  very  absence  of  anything  to 
alarm  w^as  awful ;  for  the  bravest  man  is  wretchedly  nerv- 
ous in  the  solitary  presence  of  sublime  Nature.  Even 
the  veteran  hunter  of  the  mountains  can  never  e'.itircly 
divest  himself  of  this  feeling  of  awe,  when  his  single  soul 
comes  face  to  face  with  God's  wonderful  and  beautiful 
handiwork.  ' 

At  the  close  of  the  fourth  df  ^ ,  Joe  made  his  lonely 
ciunp  in  a  deep  ddile  of  the  mcuntains,  where  a  little  fire 
and  some  roasted  mutton  again  comforted  his  inner  and 
outer  man,  and  another  night's  sleep  still  farther  refreshed 
his  wearied  frame.  On  the  following  morning,  a  very 
bleak  and  windy  one,  having  breakfjisted  on  his  remain- 
ing piece  of  mutton,  being  desirous  to  learn  something  of 
the  piogress  he  had  made,  he  ascended  a  low  mountain  in 
the  neighborhood  of  his  camp — and  behold  !  the  whole 
country  beyond  was  smoking  with  the  vapor  from  boiling 
s[)rings,  and  burning  with  gasses,  issuirig  from  small  cra- 
ters, each  of  which  was  emitting  a  sharp  whistling  sound. 

Waen  the   first  surprise  of  this  astonishing  scene  had 


WM«|»H|I 


76 


A    HELL    ON    EARTH. 


passed,  Joe  began  to  admire  its  effect  in  an  artistic  point 
of  view.  The  morning  being  clear,  with  a  sharp  frost,  he 
thonght  himself  reminded  of  the  city  of  Pittsburg,  as  he 
had  beheld  it  on  a  winter  morning,  a  couple  of  years  be- 
fore. This,  however,  related  only  to  the  rising  smoke  and 
vapor  ;  for  the  extent  of  the  volcanic  region  was  immense, 
reaching  far  out  of  sight.  The  general  face  of  the  coun- 
try was  smooth  and  rolling,  being  a  level  plain,  dotted 
with  cone-shaped  mounds.  On  the  sunmiits  of  these 
mounds  were  small  craters  from  four  to  eight  fc.  '  in  di- 
ameter. Interspersed  among  these,  on  the  lev\;i  plain, 
were  larger  craters,  some  of  them  from  four  to  six  miles 
across.  Out  of  these  craters  issued  blue  flames  and  molten 
})rimstone. 

For  some  minutes  Joe  gazed  and  wondered.  Curious 
thoughts  came  into  his  head,  about  hell  and  the  day  of 
doom.  With  that  natural  tendency  to  reckless  gayety 
and  humorous  absurdities  which  some  temperaments  are 
sensible  of  in  times  of  great  excitement,  he  began  to  solilo- 
quize. kSaid  he,  to  himself,  "I  have  been  told  the  sun 
would  be  blown  out.  and  the  earth  burnt  up.  If  this  in 
fernal  wind  keeps  up,  I  shouldn't  be  surprised  if  the  sun 
war  blown  out.  If  the  earth  is  not  burning  up  over  thar, 
then  it  is  that  place  tlie  old  Methodist  preacher  used  to 
threaten  me  with.  Any  way  it  suits  me  to  go  and  seo 
what  it's  like." 

On  descending  to  the  plain  described,  the  eav(h  was 
found  to  have  a  hollow  sound,  and  seemed  thivateniug  to 
break  through.  But  Joe  found  the  warmth  v>f  the  place 
most  delightful,  after  the  freezing  cold  of  the  >nountains. 
and  remarked  to  himself  again,  that  ''if  \t  war  hell,  it  war 
a  more  agreeable  climate  than  he  H;^d  hvow  in  for  some 
time." 

He  had  thought  the  couut»'y  i^^li^vlt)  desolate,  as  not  a 


OLD   JOE 


-A   JOYFUL   RECOGNITION. 


77' 


living  creature  had  been  seen  in  the  vicinity ;  but  while 
he  stood  gazing  about  him  in  curious  amazement,  he  was 
startled  by  the  report  of  two  guns,  followed  by  the  Indian 
yell.  While  making  rapid  preparations  for  defence  and 
flight,  if  either  or  both  should  be  necessary,  a  familiar 
voice  greeted  him  with  the  exclamation,  "It  is  old  Joe! " 
When  the  adjective  "old"  is  applied  to  one  of  Meek's 
age  at  that  time,  it  k  generally  understood  to  be  a  term 
of  endearment.  "  My  feelings  you  may  imagine,"  says  the 
''old  Uncle  Joe"  of  the  present  time,  in  recalling  the 
adventure. 

Being  joined  by  these  two  associates,  who  had  been  look- 
ing for  him,  our  traveler,  no  longer  simply  a  raw  recruit, 
but  a  hero  of  wonderful  adventures,  as  well  as  the  rest  of 
the  men,  proceeded  with  them  to  camp,  which  they  over- 
took the  third  day,  attempting  to  cross  the  high  moun- 
tains between  the  Yellowstone  and  the  Bighorn  Rivers. 
If  Meek  had  seen  hard  times  in  the  mountains  alone,  he 
did  not  find  them  much  improved  in  camp.  The  snow 
was  so  deep  that  the  men  had  to  keep  in  advance,  and 
break  the  road  for  the  animals ;  and  to  make  their  condi- 
tion still  more  trying,  there  were  no  pro\  in  camp, 
nor  any  prospect  of  plenty,  for  men  or  animai8,  until  they 
should  reach  the  buffalo  country  beyond  the  mountains. 

During  this  scarcity  of  provision's,  some  of  those  amus- 
ing incidents  took  place  witli  which  the  mountainet.'r  will 
contrive  to  lighten  his  own  and  his  comrades'  spirits,  even 
in  periods  of  the  greatest  suilering.  One  Avhich  we  have 
})ermission  to  relate,  has  reference  to  what  Joe  Meek  calls 
the  "meanest  act  of  his  life." 

While  the  men  wero  starvirig,  a  negro  boy,  belonging  to 
Jedediah  Smith,  by  some  meaiis  was  ho  fortunate  as  to 
have  caught  a  porcupine,  which  he  was  roasting  l>^ore  the 
lire.     Happening  to  turn  his  back  for  a  monw-^nt,  to  '^liji^jfve 


wi'wir 


18 


CRAIG  S  RABBIT. 


something  in  camp,  Meek  and  Reese  snatched  the  tempt- 
ing- viuiul  and  made  off*  with  it,  before  the  darkey  discov- 
ered his  loss.  But  when  it  was  discovered,  what  a  wail 
went  up  for  the  embezzled  porcupine  !  Suspicion  lixed 
upon  the  guilty  parties,  but  as  no  one  would  'peach  on 
white  men  to  save  a  "nigger's"  rights,  the  poor,  disap- 
pointed boy  could  do  nothing  but  lament  in  vain,  to  the 
great  amusement  of  the  men,  who  upon  the  principle  that 
'  miseiy  loves  company,"  rather  chuckled  over  than  con- 
demned Meek's  "mean  act." 

Th.ere  was  a  sequel,  hoAvever,  to  this  little  story.  So 
much  did  the  negro  dwell  upon  the  eveat,  and  the  heart- 
lessness  of  the  men  towards  him,  that  in  the  following 
summer,  when  Smith  was  in  St.  Louis,  he  gave  the  boy  his 
freedom  and  two  ^lundred  dollars,  and  left  him  in  that  city; 
so  that  it  became  a  saying  in  the  mountahis,  that  "the  nig- 
ger got  his  freedom  for  a  porcupine." 

During  this  same  march,  a  similar  joke  was  played  upon 
one  of  the  men  named  Craig.  He  had  caught  a  rabbit 
and  put  it  up  to  roast  before  the  fire — a  tempting  looking 
morsel  to  starving  mountaineers.  Some  of  his  associates 
determined  to  see  how  it  tasted,  and  Craig  was  told  that 
the  Booshways  wished  to  speak  with  him  at  their  lodge. 
While  he  obeyed  this  snjiposed  command,  the  rabbit  w;is 
spirited  away,  never  more  to  be  seen  by  mortal  man. 
When  Craig  returned  to  the  camp-fire,  and  beheld  the 
place  vacant  where  a  rabbit  so  late  was  nicely  roasting,  his 
passion  knew  no  bounds,  and  he  declared  his  intention  of 
cutting  it  out  of  the  stomach  that  contained  it.  But  as 
finding  the  identical  stomach  which  contained  it  involved 
the  cutting  open  of  many  that  probably  did  not,  in  the 
search,  he  was  fain  to  relinquish  that  mode  of  vengeance, 
together  with  his  hopes  of  a  supper.  As  Craig  is  still  liv- 
ing, and  is  tormented  by  the  belief  that  he  knows  the  man 


WHAT   THE   RCOUT   SAW. 


7^ 


who  stole  his  rabbit,  Mr.  Meek  takes  this  opportunity  of 
assuring  him,  upon  the  word  of  a  gentleman,  that  he  is 
not  the  man.  '         .  . 

While  on  the  nr  arch  over  these  mountains,  owing  to  the 
depth  of  the  snow,  the  company  lost  a  hundred  head  of 
horses  and  mules,  which  sank  in  the  yet  unfrozen  dril'ts, 
and  could  not  be  extricated.  In  despair  at  their  situation, 
Jedediah  Smith  one  day  sent  a  man  named  Harris  to  the 
top  of  a  high  peak  to  take  a  vie^^  of  the  country,  and  ascer- 
tain their  position.  After  a  toilsome  scramble  the  scout 
returned. 

"Well,  what  did  you  see,  Harris?"  asked  Smith  anx- 
iously. 

"I  saw  the  city  of  St.  Louis,  and  one  fellow  taking  a 
drink !  "  replied  Harris ;  prefacing  the  assertion  with  a 
shocking  oath. 

Smith  asked  no  more  questions.  He  understood  by  the 
man's  answer  that  he  had  made  no  pleasing  discoveries ; 
and  knew  that  they  had  still  a  weary  way  before  them  to 
reach  the  plains  below.  Besides,  Smith  was  a  religious 
man,  and  the  coarse  profanity  of  the  mountaineers  was 
very  distasteful  to  him.  "  A  very  mild  man,  and  a  christ- 
ian ;  and  there  were  very  few  of  them  in  the  mountains," 
is  the  account  given  of  him  by  the  mountaineers  ther:'>- 
selves. 

The  camp  finally  arrived  without  loss  of  life,  except  to 
the  animals,  on  the  plains  of  the  Bigliorn  River,  and  came 
upon  the  waters  of  the  Stinking  Fork,  a  })ranch  of  this 
river,  which  derives  its  unfortunate  appellation  from  the 
fact  liiat  it  flows  through  a  volcanic  tract  similar  to  the 
one  discovered  by  Meek  on  the  Yellowstone  plains.  This 
place  afforded  as  much  food  for  wonder  to  the  whole  camp, 
as  the  former  one  had  to  Joe;  and  the  men  unanimously 
pronounced  it  the  "back  du«)r  to  that  country  which  divines 


•'    A 


80 

4 


AN  ALARM — CROW  WAR  PARTY. 


preach  about."  As  this  volcanic  district  had  previously 
been  seen  by  one  of  Lewis  and  Clarke's  men,  named  Col- 
ter, while  on  ?  solitary  hunt,  and  by  him  also  denominated 
"  hell,"  there  must  certainly  have  been  something  very 
suggestive  in  its  appearance. 

If  the  mountains  had  proven  barren,  and  inhospitably 
cold,  this  hot  and  sulphurous  country  offered  no  greater 
hospitality.  In  fact,  the  fumes  which  pervaded  the  air 
rendered  it  exceedingly  noxious  to  every  living  thing, 
and  the  camp  was  fain  to  push  on  to  the  main  stream  of 
the  Bighorn  River.  Here  signs  of  trappers  became  appa- 
rent, and  spies  having  been  sent  out  discovered  a  camp  of 
about  forty  men,  under  Milton  Sublette,  brother  of  Captain 
William  Sublette,  the  same  that  had  been  detached  the 
previous  summer  to  hunt  in  that  country.  Smith  and  Sub- 
lette then  cached  their  furs,  and  moving  up  the  river  joined 
the  camp  of  M.  Sublette. 

The  manner  of  caching  furs  is  this :  A  pit  is  dug  to  a 
depth  of  five  or  six  feet  in  which  to  stand.  The  men  then 
drift  froiri  this  under  a  bank  of  solid  earth,  a,nd  excavate  a 
room  of  considerable  dimensions,  in  which  the  furs  are 
deposited,  and  the  apartment  closed  up.  The  pit  is  then 
filled  up  with  earth,  and  the  traces  of  digging  obliterated 
or  concealed.  These  caches  are  the  only  storehouses  of 
the  wilderness. 

While  the  men  were  recruiting  themselves  in  the  Joint 
camp,  the  alarm  of  "Indians!"  was  given,  and  hurried 
cries  of  "shoot!  shoot!"  were  uttered  on  the  instant. 
Captain  Sublette,  however,  checked  this  precipitation,  and 
ordering  the  men  to  hold,  allowed  the  Indians  to  approach, 
making  signs  of  peace.  They  proved  to  be  a  war  party 
of  Crows,  who  after  smoking  the  pipe  of  peace  with  the 
Captain,  received  from  him  a  preaent  of  some  tobacco,  and 
departed^ 


CHRISTMAS. 


81 


As  soon  as  the  camp  was  sufficiently  recrnitod  for  irav- 
eliiig,  the  united  companies  set  out  again  toward  the  south, 
and  crossed  the  Horn  mountains  once  more  into  Wind  River 
Valley ;  having  had  altogether,  a  successful  fall  lunit,  and 
made  some  important  explorations,  notwithstanding  the 
severity  of  the  weather  and  the  difficulty  of  mountain  trav- 
eling. It  was  about  Christmas  when  the  camp  arrived  on 
Wind  River,  and  the  cold  intense.  While  the  men  cele- 
brated Christmas,  as  best  they  might  under  the  circum- 
stances, Capt.  Sublette  started  to  St.  Louis  with  one  man, 
Harris,  called  among  mountain  ineu  Black  Harris,  on  snow- 
shoes,  with  a  train  of  pack-dogs.  Such  was  the  indomita- 
ble energy  and  courage  of  this  famous  leader ! 


^  i 


82 


A   HUNTERS   TAUADISE. 


CHAPTER    IV. 


1830.  The  furs  collected  by  Jackson's  company  were 
cached  on  the  Wind  River ;  and  the  cold  still  being  very 
severe,  and  game  scarce,  the  two  remaining  leaders.  Smith 
and  Jackson,  set  out  on  the  first  of  January  with  the 
whole  camp,  for  the  buffalo  country,  on  the  Powder 
River,  a  distance  of  about  one  hundred  aixd  fifty  miles. 
"  Times  were  hard  in  camp,"  when  mountains  had  to  be 
crossed  in  the  depth  of  winter. 

The  animals  had  to  be  subsisted  on  the  bark  of  the 
sweet  cotton-wood,  which  grows  along  the  streams  and  in 
the  valleys  on  the  east  side  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  but 
is  nowhere  to  be  found  west  of  that  range.  This  way  of 
providing  for  his  horses  and  mules  involved  no  trifling 
amount  of  labor,  when  each  man  had  to  furnish  food  for 
several  of  them.  To  collect  this  bark,  the  men  carried 
the  smooth  limbs  of  the  cotton-wood  to  camp,  where,  be- 
side the  camp-fire,  they  shaved  off  the  SAveot,  green  bark 
with  a  hunting-knif  transformed  into  a  drawing  knife  l)y 
fastening  a  piece  o.  wotitl  tti  Its  point;  or,  incase  the 
cotton-wcod  was  noi,  convenient,  the  bark  was  peeled  off", 
and  carried  to  camp  in  a  blanket.  Ho  nutritious  is  it, 
that  animals  fatten  upon  it  quite  as  well  ns  upon  oats. 

In  the  large  cotton-wood  botionm  nn  tlH5  YellowKtniio 
River,  it  sometimes  became  necessary  to  station  a  doiililo 
guard  to  keep  the  buifalo  out  of  camp,  so  numerous  were 
they,  when  the  severity  of  the  coUl  drove  llioni  from  the 
prairies  to  these  cotton-wood  thickets  for  subsistence.     It 


THE    TRANSFORMATION    IN    THE    WILDERNESS. 


83 


was,  therefore,  of  double  importance  to  make  the  winter 
camp  where  the  cotton-wood  was  plenty ;  since  not  only 
did  it  furnish  the  animals  of  the  camp  with  food,  but  h}' 
attracting  buffalo,  made  game  plenty  for  the  men.  To 
such  a  hunter's  paradise  on  Powder  River,  the  (amp  was 
now  traveling,  and  arrived,  after  a  hard,  cold  march, 
about  the  middle  of  January,  when  the  whole  encamp- 
ment went  into  winter  quarters,  to  remain  u,util  the  open- 
ing of  spring. 

This  was  the  occasion  when  the  mountain-man  "  lived 
flit"  and  enjoyed  life:  a  season  of  plenty,  of  relaxation, 
of  amusement,  of  acquaintanceship  with  all  the  compan)'-, 
of  gayety,  and  of  "  busy  idleness."  Through  the  da}--, 
hunting  parties  were  coming  and  going,  moi  were  cook- 
ing, drying  meat,  making  moccasins,  cleaning  their  arms, 
wrestling,  playing  games,  and,  in  short,  everything  that 
an  isolated  community  of  hardy  men  could  resort  to  for 
occupation,  was  resorted  to  by  these  mountaineers.  Nor 
was  there  wanting,  in  the  appearance  of  the  camp,  the 
variety,  and  that  picturesque  air  imparted  by  a  mingling 
of  the  native  element ;  for  what  with  their  Indian  allies, 
their  native  wives,  and  numerous  children,  the  mountain- 
eers' camp  was  a  motley  assemblage ;  and  the  trappers 
themselves,  with  their  affectation  of  Indian  coxcombry, 
not  the  least  pictui'esque  individuals. 

The  change  wrought  in  a  wilderness  landscape  by  the 
arrival  of  the  grand  camp  was  wonderful  indeed.  Instead 
of  Nature's  superb  silence  and  majestic  loneliness,  there' 
was  the  sound  of  men's  voices  in  boisterous  laughter,  or 
Iho  busy  hum  of  conversation  ;  the  loud-resounding  stroke 
of  the  axe  ;  the  sharD  report  of  the  rifle  ;  the  neighing 
of  horses,  and  braying  of  mules ;  the  Indian  whoop  and 
yell ;  and  all  that  not  unpleasing  confusion  of  sound  which 
accompanies  the  movements  of  the  creature  man.     Over 


I  ■■  .til 


84 


TUB    ENCAMPMENT    BY    NIGHT. 


the  plain,  only  dotted  until  now  with  shadows  of  clouds, 
or  the  transitory  passage  of  the  deer,  the  antelope,  or  the 
bear,  were  scattered  hundreds  of  lodges  and  immense 
herds  o*"  grazing  aninuils.  Even  the  atmosphere  itself 
seemed  changed  from  its  original  purity,  and  became 
clouded  with  the  smoke  from  many  camp-fires.  And  all 
this  change  might  go  as  quickly  as  it  came.  The  tent 
struck  and  the  march  resumed,  solitude  reigned  once 
more,  and  only  the  cloud  dotted  the  silent  landscape. 

If  the  day  was  busy  and  gleesome,  the  night  had  its 
charms  as  well.  Gathered  about  the  shining  fires,  groups 
of  men  in  fantastic  costumes  told  tales  of  marvelous  ad- 
ventures, or  sung  some  old-remembered  song,  or  were 
absorbed  in  games  of  chance.  Some  of  the  better  edu- 
cated men,  who  had  once  known  and  loved  books,  but 
whom  some  mishap  in  life  had  banished  to  the  wilderness, 
recalled  their  favorite  authors,  and  recitod  passages  once 
treasured,  now  growing  unfamiliar  ;  or  v  liispercd  to  some 
chosen  confrere  the  saddened  history  of  his  eai-lier  years, 
and  charged  him  thus  and  thus,  should  ever-ready  death 
sur])rise  himself  in  the  next  spring's  hunt. 

It  will  not  be  thought  discreditable  to  our  young  trap- 
per, Joe,  that  he  learned  to  read  by  the  light  of  the  camp- 
fire.  Becoming  sensible,  even  in  the  wilderness,  of  the 
deficiencies  of  his  early  education,  he  found  a  teacher  in 
a  comrade,  named  Green,  and  soon  acquired  sufficient 
knowledge  to  enjoy  an  old  copy  of  Shakspeare,  which, 
with  a  Bible,  was  carried  about  with  the  property  of  the 
camp. 

In  this  life  of  careless  gayety  and  plenty,  the  whole 
company  was  allowed  to  remain  without  interruption, 
until  the  first  of  April,  when  it  was  divided,  and  once 
more  started  on  the  march.  Jackson,  or  "  Davey,"  as  he 
was  called  by  the  men,  with  about  half  the  company,  left 


HEAVY    LOSB    OF    lIOIWEa   AND    TUAPS- 


85 


for  the  Snake  country.  The  remainder,  among"  whom 
was  Meek,  started  north,  with  Smith  lor  commander,  and 
James  Bridger  as  })ih)t. 

Crossing  the  mountains,  ranges  of  which  divide  the 
tributary  streams  of  tiie  Yellowstone  from  each  other,  the 
iirst  halt  was  made  on  Tongue  River.  From  thence  tlie 
camp  proceeded  to  the  Jiighorn  River.  Tiirough  all  this 
country  game  was  in  abundance, — buffalo,  elk,  and  bear, 
and  beaver  also  plenty.  In  mountain  })hrase,  "  times 
were  good  on  this  hunt:  "  beaver  packs  increased  in  num- 
ber, and  both  men  and  animals  were  in  excellent  condi- 
tion. 

A  large  party  usually  hunted  out  the  beaver  and  fright- 
ened away  the  game  in  a  few  weeks,  or  days,  from  any 
one  locality.  When  this  happened  the  camp  moved  on  ; 
or,  should  not  game  be  plenty,  it  kept  constantly  on  the 
move,  the  hunters  and  trappers  seldom  remaining  out 
more  than  a  day  or  two.  Should  the  country  be  consid- 
ered dangerous  on  account  of  Indians,  it  was  the  habit  of 
the  men  to  return  every  night  to  the  encampment. 

It  was  the  design  of  Smith  to  take  his  command  into 
the  Blackfoot  country,  a  region  abounding  in  the  riches 
which  he  sought,  could  they  only  be  secured  without 
coming  into  too  frequent  conflict  with  the  natives :  always 
a  »!  vi>tful  question  concerning  these  savages.  He  had 
p  ococ'.ed  in  this  direction  as  far  as  Bovey's  Fork  of  the 
Bi'  iior.t,  when  the  camp  was  overtaken  by  a  heavy  fall 
of  snow,  wjiich  made  traveling  extremely  diflicult,  and 
which,  when  melted,  caused  a  sudden  great  rise  in  the 
mountain  streams.  In  attempting  to  cross  Bovey's  Fork 
during  the  high  water,  he  had  thirty  horses  swept  away, 
with  three  hundred  traps :  a  serious  loss  in  the  business 
of  hunting  beaver. 

In  the  manner  described,   pushing  on  through  an  uu- 


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23  W6ST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  NY.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


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86 


ROBBED    AND    INSULTED    BY    A   BEAR. 


1/' 


known  country,  hunting  and  trapping  as  they  moved,  the 
company  proceeded,  passing  another  low  chain  of  moun- 
tains, through  a  pass  called  Pryor's  Gap,  to  Clark's  Fork 
of  the  Yellowstone,  thence  to  Rose-Bud  River,  and  finally 
to  the  main  Yellowstone  River,  where  it  makes  a  great 
bend  to  the  east,  enclosing  a  large  plain  covered  with 
grass,  and  having  also  extensive  cotton-wood  bottoms, 
wliich  subsequently  became  a  favorite  wintering  ground 
of  the  fur  companies. 

It  was  while  trapping  up  in  this  country,  on  the  Rose- 
Bud  River,  that  an  amusing  adventure  befel  our  trapper 
Joe.  Being  out  with  two  other  trappers,  at  some  distance 
from  the  great  camp,  they  had  killed  and  supped  oft'  a  fat 
bufialo  cow.  The  night  was  snowy,  and  their  camp  was 
made  in  a  grove  of  young  aspens.  Having  feasted  them- 
selves, the  remaining  store  of  choice  pieces  was  divided 
between,  and  placed,  hunter  fashion,  under  the  heads  of 
the  party,  on  their  betaking  themselves  to  their  blanket 
couches  for  the  night.  Neither  Indian  nor  wild  beast  dis- 
t\irbed  their  repose,  as  they  slept,  with  their  guns  beside 
them,  filled  with  comfort  and  plenty.  But  who  ever 
dreams  of  the  presence  of  a  foe  under  such  circum- 
stances ?  Certainly  not  our  young  trapper,  v/ho  was  only 
awakened  about  day-break  by  something  very  large  and 
heavy  walking  over  him,  and  snuffing  about  him  with  a 
most  insulting  freedom.  It  did  not  need  Yankee  powers 
of  guessing  to  make  out  who  the  intruder  in  camp  might 
be :  in  truth,  it  was  only  too  disagreeably  certain  that  it 
was  a  full  sized  grizzly  bear,  whose  keenness  of  smell  had 
revealed  to  him  the  presence  of  fat  cow-meat  in  that 
neighborhood. 

"  You  may  be  sure,"  says  Joe,  "  that  I  kept  very  quiet, 
while  that  bar  helped  himself  to  some  of  my  buffalo  meat, 
tuid  went  a  little  way  off"  to  eat  it.     But  Mark  Head,  one 


'■  ,;.:iif!i!u;i  v/i^ 


v#- 


A   NOVliL   FEHUIAUE. 


8T 


of  the  men,  raised  up,  and  back  came  the  bar.  Down 
went  our  heads  under  the  bhankets,  and  I  kept  mine  cov- 
ered pretty  snug,  while  the  beast  took  another  walk  over 
the  bed,  but  finally  went  off  again  to  a  little  distance. 
Mitchel  then  wanted  to  shoot ;  but  I  said,  '  no,  no  ;  hold 
on,  or  the  brute  will  kill  us,  sure.'  When  the  bar  heard 
our  voices,  back  he  run  again,  and  jumped  on  the  bed  as 
before.  I'd  have  been  happy  to  have  felt  myself  sinking 
ten  feet  under  ground,  while  that  bar  promenaded  over 
and  around  us  !  However,  he  couldn't  quite  make  out  our 
style,  and  finally  took  fright,  and  ran  oft'  down  the  moun- 
tain. Wanting  to  be  revenged  for  his  impudence,  I  went 
after  hira,  and  seeing  a  good  chance,  shot  hhn  dead. 
Then  I  took  my  turn  at  running  over  him  awhile !  " 

Such  are  the  not  infrequent  incidents  of  the  trapper's 
life,  which  furnish  him  with  material,  needing  little  em- 
bellishment to  convert  it  into  thosr-  wild  tales  with  which 
the  nights  are  whiled  away  around  the  winter  camp-fire. 

Arrived  at  the  Yellowstone  with  his  company.  Smith 
found  it  necessary,  on  account  of  the  high  water,  to  con- 
struct Bull-boats  for  the  crossing.  These  are  made  by 
stitching  together  bufflilo  hides,  stretching  them  over  light 
frames,  and  paying  the  seams  with  elk  tallow  and  ashes. 
In  these  light  wherries  the  goods  and  people  were  ferried 
over,  while  the  horses  and  mules  were  crossed  by  swim- 
mhig. 

The  mode  usually  adopted  in  crossing  large  rivers,  was 
to  spread  the  lodges  on  the  ground,  throwing  on  them  the 
light  articles,  saddles,  etc.  A  rope  was  then  run  through 
the  pin-holes  around  the  edge  of  each,  when  it  could  bo 
drawn  up  like  a  reticule.  It  was  then  filled  with  the 
heavier  camp  goods,  and  being  tightly  drawn  up,  formed  a 
perfect  ball.  A  rope  being  tied  to  it,  it  was  launched  on 
the  water,  the  children  of  the  camp  on  top,  and  the  wo- 
men swimming  after  and  clinging  to  it,  while  a  man,  who 


n\ 


lippBnir''^ 


88' 


RETURN    MARCH RUDE    BURIAL    SERVICE. 


1  uf 


had  the  rope  in  his  hand,  swam  ahead  holding  on  to  his 
horse's  niane.  In  this  way,  dancing  like  a  cork  on  the 
waves,  the  lodge  was  piloted  across;  and  passengers  as 
well  as  freight  consigned,  undamaged,  to  the  opposite 
shore.  A  large  camp  of  three  hundred  men,  and  one 
hundred  women  and  children  were  frequently  thus  crossed 
in  one  hour's  time. 

The  camp  was  now  in  the  excellent  but  inhospitable 
country  of  the  Blackfeet,  and  the  commander  redoubled 
his  precautions,  moving  on  all  the  while  to  the  Mussel  Shell, 
and  thence  to  the  Judith  River.  Beaver  were  plenty 
and  game  abundant ;  but  the  vicinity  of  the  large  village 
of  the  Blackfeet  made  trapping  impracticable.  Their 
■•./ar  upon  the  trappers  was  ceaseless ;  their  thefts  of  traps 
and  horses  ever  recurring :  and  Smith,  finding  that  to  re- 
main w;is  to  be  involved  in  incessant  warfare,  without 
hope  of  victory  or  gain,  at  length  gave  the  command  to 
turn  back,  which  was  cheerfully  obeyed :  for  the  trappers 
had  been  very  successful  on  the  spring  hunt,  and  thinking 
discretion  some  part  at  least  of  valor,  were  glad  to  get 
safe  out  of  the  Blackfoot  country  with  their  rich  harvest 
of  beaver  skins. 

The  return  march  was  by  the  way  of  Pryor's  Gap,  and 
up  the  Bighorn,  to  Wind  River,  where  the  cache  was 
made  in  the  previous  December.  The  furs  were  now 
taken  out  and  pressed,  ready  for  transportation  across  the 
plains.  A  party  was  also  dispatched,  under  Mr.  Tullock, 
to  raise  the  cache  on  the  Bighorn  River.  Among  this 
party  was  Meek,  and  a  Frenchman  named  Ponto.  While 
digging  to  come  at  the  fur,  the  bank  above  caved  in,  fal- 
ling upon  Meek  and  Ponto,  killing  the  latter  almost  in- 
stantly. Meek,  though  severely  hurt,  was  taken  out  alive : 
while  poor  Ponto  was  "rolled  in  a  blanket,  and  pitched 
into  the  river."  So  rude  were  the  burial  services  of  the 
trapper  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.        •-  .  '  ,f 


THE    OLD    PARTNERS   TAKE    LEAVE. 


89 


Meek  was  packed  back  to  camp,  along  with  the  furs, 
whore  he  soon  recovered.  Sublette  arrived  from  St. 
Louis  with  fourteen  wagons  loaded  with  merchandise,  and 
two  hundred  additional  men  for  the  service.  Jackson  also 
arrived  from  the  Snake  country  with  plenty  of  beaver, 
and  the  business  of  the  yearly  rendezvous  began.  Then 
the  scenes  previously  described  were  re-enacted.  Beaver, 
the"  currency  of  the  mountains,  was  plenty  that  year,  and 
goods  were  high  accordingly.  A  thousand  dollars  a  day 
was  not  too  much  for  some  of  the  most  reckless  to  spend 
on  their  squaws,  horses,  alcohol,  and  themselves.  For 
"alcohol"  was  the  beverage  of  the  mountaineers.  Liquors 
could  not  be  furnished  to  the  men  in  that  country.  Pure 
alcohol  was  what  they  "got  tight  on;"  and  a  desperate 
tight  it  was,  to  be  sure ! 

An  important  change  took  place  in  the  affairs  of  the 
Rocky  Mountain  Company  at  this  rendezvous.  The  three 
partners,  Smith,  Sublette,  and  Jackson,  sold  out  to  a  new 
firm,  consisting  of  Milton  Sublette,  James  Bridger,  Fitz- 
patrick,  Frapp,  and  Jervais ;  the  new  company  retaining 
the  same  name  and  style  as  the  old.      :^'.v.'.".-  -•;,••  fi/ .iij<;  6'ft-3 

The  old  partners  left  for  St.  Louis,  with  a  company  of 
seventy  men,  to  convoy  the  furs.  Two  of  them  never  re- 
turned to  the  Rocky  Mountains ;  one  of  them.  Smith,  be- 
ing killed  the  following  year,  as  will  hereafter  be  related ; 
and  Jackson  remaining  in  St.  Louis,  where,  like  a  true 
mountain-man,  he  dissipated  his  large  and  hard-earned 
fortune  in  a  few  years.  Captain  Sublette,  however,  con- 
tinued to  make  his  annual  trips  to  and  from  the  mountains 
for  a  number  of  years ;  and  until  the  consolidation  of  an- 
other wealthy  company  with  the  Rocky  Mountain  Com- 
pany, continued  to  furnish  goods  to  the  latter,  at  a  profit 
on  St.  Louis  prices ;  his  capital  and  experience  enabling 
him  to  keep  the  new  firm  under  his  control  to  a  large 

"i-  ^  it  'to  TdqqiiX} 


loffree. 


hi? 

:     If.-* 


1 

1; 

! 
I 

t 
i 

|i 

m 


m^mmr 


90 


ABUNDANCE    OF    GAME — THE    GRIZZLY    BEAU. 


I/' 


CHAPTER    V. 


1830.  The  whole  country  lying  upon  the  Yellowstone 
and  its  tributaries,  and  about  the  head-waters  of  theMissouri, 
at  the  time  of  which  we  are  writing,  abounded  not  only  in 
beaver,  but  in  buffido,  bear,  elk,  antelope,  and  many  smaller 
kinds  of  game.  Indeed  the  buftalo  used  then  to  cross 

the  mountains  into  the  valleys  about  the  head-waters  of  the 
Snake  and  Colorado  Rivers,  in  such  numbers  that  at  cer- 
tain seasons  of  the  year,  the  plains  and  river  bottoms 
swarmed  with  them.  Since  that  day  they  have  quite  dis- 
appeared from  the  western  slope  of  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
and  are  no  longer  seen  in  the  same  numbers  on  the  east- 
ern side.  - 

Bear,  although  they  did  not  go  in  herds,  were  rather 
uncomfortably  numerous,  and  sometimes  put  the  trapper 
to  considerable  trouble,  and  fright  also ;  for  very  few  were 
brave  enough  to  willingly  encounter  the  formidable  griz- 
zly, one  blow  of  whose  terrible  paw,  aimed  generally  at 
the  hunter's  head,  if  not  arrested,  lays  hi-.ii  senseless  and 
torn,  an  easy  victim  to  the  wrathful  monster.  A  gunshot 
wound,  if  not  directed  with  certainty  to  some  vulnerable 
point,  has  only  the  eifect  to  infuriate  the  beast,  and  make 
him  trebly  dangerous.  From  the  fact  that  the  bear  al- 
ways bites  his  wound,  and  commences  to  run  with  his 
head  thus  brought  in  the  direction  from  which  the  ball 
comes,  he  is  pretty  likely  to  make  a  straight  wake  towards 
his  enemy,  whether  voluntarily  or  not ;  and  woe  be  to  the 
hunter  who  is  not  prepared  for  him,  with  a  shot  for  his 


AN    ADVENTURE    WITH    A   GUIZZLY. 


91 


eye,  or  the  apot  just  behind  the  car,  wheie  ccrtiiin  death 
enters. 

In  the  frequent  encounterR  of  the  mountain -men  with 
these  huf?c  beasts,  many  aets  of  wonderful  bravery  were 
performed,  while  some  tragedies,  and  not  a  few  comedies 
were  enacted. 

From  something  humorous  in  Joe  Mcelc's  organization, 
or  some  wonderful  ''luck"  to  which  he  was  born,  or  both, 
the  greater  part  of  his  adventures  with  bears,  as  with  men, 
were  of  a  humorous  complexion ;  enal)ling  him  not  only 
to  have  a  story  to  tell,  but  one  at  which  his  companions 
were  bound  to  laugh.  One  of  these  which  happened  dur- 
ing the  fall  hunt  of  1830,  we  will  let  him.  tell  for  himself: 

"  The  first  fall  on  the  Yellowstone,  Hawkins  and  myself 
were  coming  up  the  river  in  search  of  camp,  when  we  dis- 
covered a  very  large  bar  on  the  opposite  bank.  We  shot 
across,  and  thought  we  had  killed  him,  fur  he  laid  quite 
still.  As  we  wanted  to  take  some  tro})hy  of  our  victory 
to  camp,  we  tied  our  mules  and  left  our  guns,  clothes,  and 
everything  except  our  knives  and  belts,  and  swum  over  to 
whar  the  bar  war.  But  instead  of  being  dead,  as  we  ex- 
pected, he  sprung  up  as  we  come  near  him,  and  took  after 
us.  Then  you  ought  to  have  seen  two  naked  men  run ! 
It  war  a  race  for  life,  and  a  close  one,  too.  But  we  made 
che  river  first.  The  bank  war  about  fifteen  feet  high  above 
the  water,  and  the  river  ten  or  twelve  feet  deep ;  but  we 
didn't  halt.  Overboard  we  went,  the  bar  after  us,  and  in 
the  stream  about  as  quick  as  we  war.  The  current  war 
very  strong,  and  the  bar  war  about  half  way  between 
Hawkins  and  me.  Hawkins  was  trying  to  swim  down 
stream  faster  than  tne  current  war  carrying  tlie  bar,  and  I 
war  a  trying  to  hold  back.  You  can  reckon  that  I  swam  ! 
Every  moment  I  felt  myself  being  washed  into  the  yawn- 
ing jaAvs  of  the  mighty  beast,  whose  head  war  up  the 


''  ■  I 


I 

I 


i 


i      M 


.yim.'W''^ 


92 


nirXY,    DAVKV,    AND    OLD    OABB. 


1/ 


stronm,  and  his  eyes  on  mo.  But  tho  current  war  too  strong 
lor  him,  and  swept  liim  along  as  fast  as  it  did  mo.  All  this 
tinio,  not  a  long  ono,  wo  Avar  looking  for  some  place  to 
land  where  the  bar  could  not  overtake  us.  Hawkins  Avar 
the  first  to  make  the  shore,  unknoAvn  to  the  bar,  Avhose 
head  AA'ar  still  up  stream ;  and  he  set  up  such  a  whooping 
and  yelling  that  the  bar  landed  too,  but  on  the  opposite 
side.  I  made  haste  to  folloAV  ITaAvkins,  Avho  had  landed 
on  the  side  of  the  ri\'er  aa'^o  started  from,  either  by  design 
or  good  luck :  and  then  Ave  traveled  back  a  mile  and  more 
to  Avhar  our  mules  war  left — a  bar  on  one  side  of  the  river, 
and  iwo  hares  on  the  other  !  " 

NotAvithstanding  that  a  necessary  discipline  was  observed 
and  maintained  in  the  fur  traders'  camp,  there  was  at  the 
same  time  a  freedom  of  manner  betAvecn  the  BoosliAvavs 
and  the  men,  both  hired  and  free,  Avhich  could  not  obtain 
in  a  purely  military  organization,  nor  even  in  the  higher 
walks  of  civilized  life  in  cities.  In  the  mountain  commu- 
nity, motley  as  it  was,  as  in  other  communities  more  refined, 
were  some  men  Avho  enjoyed  almost  unlimited  freedom  of 
speech  and  action,  and  others  who  Avere  the  butt  of  every- 
body's ridicule  or  censure.  The  leaders  themselves  did 
not  escape  the  critical  judgment  of  the  men ;  and  the  es- 
timation in  which  they  Avere  held  could  be  inferred  from 
the  manner  in  Avhich  they  designated  them.  Captain  Sub- 
lette, whose  energy,  courage,  and  kindness  entitled  him  to 
the  adnn'ration  of  the  mountaineers,  went  by  the  name  of 
Billy :  his  partner  Jackson,  was  called  Daveij  •  Bridger, 
old  Gahe^  and  so  on.  In  the  same  manner  the  men  distin- 
guished favorites  or  oddities  amongst  themselves,  and  to 
have  the  adjective  old  prefixed  to  a  man's  name  signified 
nothing  concerning  his  age,  but  rather  that  he  was  an 
object  of  distinction ;  though  it  did  not  always  indicate, 
except  by  the  tone  in  which  it  was  pronounced,  whether 
that  distinction  were  an  enviable  one  or  not. 


)o  strong 

All  tliis 

place  to 

kins  wiir 

ir,  wliosi' 

t'hoopiiii^' 

oppositi; 

i  laiidcil 

)y  design  s 

iiid  more 

the  river, 

observed 
van  at  tlie 
ooshwavs 
lot  obtain 
he  higher 
n  coramu- 
'e  refined, 
eedom  of 
;  of  every- 
elves  did 
lid  the  es- 
rred  from 
)tain  Sub- 
ed  him  to 
3  name  of 

Bridger, 
len  distin- 
es,  and  to 
)  signified 
ic  was  ail 
i  indicate, 

,  whether 


Hi 


now    SUULliTTK    CLIMBED    A    COTTON  WOOD. 


93 


Whoncv(3r  a  trapper  could  jj^ct  liold  of  any  sort  of  story 
rollccling  on  the  c()iira<j^e  of  a  leader,  lie  was  sure  at  some 
time  to  make  him  aware  of  it,  and  these  aiK^cdotc.'S  were 
sometimes  sharp  answers  in  the  mouths  of  careless  camp- 
keepers.  ]irid<;er  was  once  waylaid  by  Black  feel,  wiio 
shot  at  him,  hittiu'j;'  his  horse  in  several  })lace8.  The 
wounds  caused  the  animal  to  n^ar  and  pitch,  by  reason  of 
which  violent  movements  Bridger  dropped  his  gun,  and 
the  Indians  snatched  it  up;  after  which  there  was  nothing 
to  do  except  to  run,  which  Bridger  accordingly  did.  Not 
long  after  this,  as  was  customary,  the  leader  was  making 
a  circuit  of  the  camp  examining  the  camp  keeper's  guns, 
to  see  if  they  were  in  order,  and  found  that  of  one  Ma- 
loney,  an  Irishman,  in  a  very  dirty  condition. 

"  What  would  you  do,"  asked  Bridger,  "with  a  gun  like 
that,  if  the  Indians  were  to  charge  on  the  camp?" 

— ,  I  would  throw  it  to  them,  and  run  the  way 


[)e 


ye  did,"  an.swered  Maloney,  quickly.  It  was  sometime 
after  this  incident  before  Bridger  again  examined  Malo- 
iioy's  gun. 

A  laughable  story  in  this  way  wont  the  rounds  of  the 
camp  in  this  fall  of  1830.  Milton  Sublette  was  out  on  a 
hunt  with  Meek  after  buffalo,  and  they  were  just  approach- 
ing the  band  on  foot,  at  a  distance  apart  of  about  fifty  yards, 
when  a  lai'ge  grizzly  bear  came  out  of  a  thicket  and  made 
after  Sublette,  who,  when  he  perceived  the  creature,  ran 
for  the  nearest  cotton-wood  tree.  Meek  in  the  meantime, 
seeing  that  Sublette  was  not  likely  to  escape,  had  taken 
sure  aim,  and  fired  at  the  bcpr,  fortunately  killing  him. 
On  running  up  to  the  spot  where  it  laid,  Sublette  was  discov- 
ered sitting  at  the  foot  of  a  cotton-wood,  with  his  legs  and 
arms  clasped  tightly  around  it. 

?  "  asked  Meek. 


you  always 


way 


94 


A    Bl'CCEBHFlTL    HUNT. 


"T  reckon  you  took  the  wrong  end  of  it,  that  timo, 
Milton!" 

"  I'll  l»e    ,  M?ok,  if  1  didn't  think  I  was   twenty 

feet  uj)  that  tree  when  you  shot;"  answered  thi;  IVi'j^htcned 
Booshway ;  and  from  that  time  the  men  never  tired  of 
alludiu''  to  Milton's  numner  of  climbiuf'  a  tree. 


V'-V'N^ 


•IIIK    WnONO     EM)   OF   THE   TUEE. 


These  were  some  of  the  mirthful  ineidents  whieh  gave 
occasion  for  a  gayety  which  had  to  be  substituted  for  hap- 
piness, in  the  checkered  life  of  the  trapper ;  and  there 
were  like  to  be  many  such,  where  there  were  two  hun- 
dred men,  each  almost  daily  in  the  way  of  adventures  by 
flood  or  field. 

On  the  change  in  the  management  of  the  Company 
which  occurred  at  the  rendezvous  this  year,  three  of  the 
new  partners,  Fitzpatrick,  Sublette,  and  Bridger,  conducted 
a  large  party,  numbering  over  two  hundred,  from  the  Wind 
River  to  the  Yellowstone ;  crossing  thence  to  Smith's  River, 
the  Falls  of  the  Missouri,  three  forks  of  the  Missouri,  and 
to  the  Big  Blaekfoot  River.  The  hunt  proved  very  suc- 
cessful ;  beaver  were  plentiful ;  and  the  Blackfeet  shy  of 
so  large  a  traveling  party.  Although  so  long  in  their 
country,  there  were  only  four  men  killed  ou*  !"  the  whole 
company  during  this  autumn. 


Mi:i;TiN(i   WITH    iuvai,  traitehs. 


95 


From  tlio  BliK'kl'oot  Klvcr  the  coinimiiy  proceeded  down 
the  west  side  of  the  mountains  to  the  I'orks  of  the  Snake 
ilivcr,  and  iirter  liappin^^  for  a  short  time  in  tiiis  locality, 
continued  their  march  southward  us  far  as  0^'den's  Hole, 
11  small  valley  amon^  the  Bear  River  Mountains. 

At  this  place  they  fell  in  with  a  trading  and  trap])innr 
party,  under  Mr.  Peter  Skceu  ()<;'den,  (^i  .'io  Hudson's  liay 
Company.  And  now  commenced  that  irritating  and  rep- 
rehensible style  of  rivalry  witii  whi  h  th<>  dillerent  com- 
panies were  accustomed  to  annoy  owe  anoth'jr.  Accom- 
,r:.}nig  Mr.  Ogden's  trading  jKirty  wcrf:  ii  party  of  Rock- 
wiiy  Indians,  who  were  from  the  North,  and  who  were 
(inployed  by  the  Hudson's  lh\y  Company,  as  the  Iroquois 
and  Crows  were,  to  trap  for  them,  b'itzpatrick  and  jisso 
I'iates  camped  in  the  neighborhood  of  Ogden's  company, 
luid  immediately  set  about  endeavoring  to  })urchase  from 
the  Rockways  and  others,  the  furs  collected  ibr  Mr.  Ogden. 
Not  succeeding  by  fair  means,  if  the  means  to  such  an  end 
could  be  called  fair, — they  opened  a  keg  of  whiskey,  which, 
when  the  Indians  had  got  a  taste,  soon  drew  them  away 
iVoin  the  Hudson's  Bay  trader,  the  regulations  of  whose 
company  forbade  the  selling  or  giving  of  liquors  to  the 
Indians.  Under  its  influence,  the  furs  were  disposed  of  to. 
the  Rocky  Mountain  Company,  who  in  this  manner  obtained 
nearly  the  whole  product  of  their  year's  hunt.  This  course 
of  conduct  was  naturally  exceedingly  disagreeable  to  Mr. 
Otrden,  as  well  as  unprofitable  also;  and  a  feeling  of  hos- 
tility grew  up  and  increased  between  the  two  camps. 

While  matters  were  in  this  position,  a  stampede  one  day 
occurred  among  the  horses  in  OgdenV.  camp,  and  two  or 
three  of  the  animals  ran  away,  and  ran  into  the  camp  of 
tlie  rival  company.  Among  them  was  the  horse  of  Mr. 
Ogden's  Indian  wife,  which  had  escaped,  with  her  babe 
liiiiiging  to  the  saddle.  .  ,.<:•.-•« 


:  Li 


i!i 


i    i 

■  "''' 

^^^^K=  ■ 

9e 


OGDEN  S   INDIAN    WIFE. 


f 


Not  many  minutes  elapsed,  before  the  mother,  following 
lier  child  and  horse,  entered  the  camp,  passing  right 
through  it,  and  catching  the  now  halting  steed  by  the  bri- 
dle. At  the  same  moment  she  espied  one  of  her  com- 
pany's pack-horses,  loaded  with  beaver,  which  had  also 
run  into  the  enemy's  c;amp.  The  men  had  already  begun 
to  exult  over  the  circumstance,  considering  this  chance 
load  of  beaver  as  their:?,  by  the  laws  of  war.  But  not  so 
the  Indian  woman.  Mounting  her  own  horse,  she  fearlessly 
seized  the  pack-horse  by  the  halter,  and  led  it  out  of  camp, 
with  its  costly  burden. 

At  this  undaunted  action,  some  of  the  baser  sort  of  men 
cried  out  "shoot  her,  shoot  her !  "  but  a  majority  interfered, 
with  opposing  cries  of  "let  her  go ;  let  her  alone;  she's 
a  brave  Avoman :  I  glory  in  her  pluck ;"  and  other  like 
admiring  expressions.  While  the  clamor  continued,  the 
wife  of  Ogden  had  galloped  away,  with  her  baby  and 
her  pack-horse.   '     '  Mv-nf    ;k;  ;       .'v,-f.-r 

As  the  season  advanced,  Fitzpatrick,  with  his  other  part- 
ners, returned  to  the  east  side  of  the  mountains,  and  went 
into  winter  quarters  on  Powder  river.  In  this  trapper's 
"land  of"  Canaan"  they  remained  between  two  and  three 
months.  The  other  two  partners.  Frapp  and  Jervais,  who 
were  trapping  far  to  the  south,  did  not  return  until  the 
following  year. 

While  wintering  it  became  necessary  to  send  a  dispatch 
to  St.  Louis  on  the  company's  business.  Meek  and  a 
Frenchman  named  Legarde,  were  chosen  for  this  service, 
which  was  one  of  trust  and  peril  also.  They  proceeded 
without  accident,  however,  until  the  Pawnee  villages  were 
reached,  when  Legarde  was  taken  ])risoner.  Meek,  more 
cautious,  escaped,  and  proceeded  alone  a  few  days'  travel 
beyond,  who^n  he  fell  in  with  an  express  on  its  way  to  St. 
Louis,  to  whom  he  delivered  his  dispatches,  and  returned 


CROW    HOKSE-THIEVES. 


97 


to  camp,  iicconipaniccl  only  by  a  Frencliniau  named  Cabe- 
iieaii ;  thus  proving  liimself  an  efficient  mountaineer  at 
twenty  years  of  age.     i    .'/.■,/    ,,,  <  .,,,   ,  ..,       ,,,  -,   ,, ......vwii 

18;U.  x\s  soon  as  the  spring  opened,  sometime  in 
March,  the  whole  company  started  north  again,  for  the 
blackfoot  country.  IJut  on  the  night  of  the  tliird  day  out, 
llicy  fell  unawares  into  the  neighborhood  of  a  party  of 
Crow  Indians,  whose  spies  discovered  the  company's 
horses  feeding  on  the  dry  grass  of  a  little  bottom,  and 
succo(!ded  in  driving  oif  about  three  hundred  head.  Here 
was  a  dilemma  to  be  in,  in  the  heart  of  an  enemy's  coun- 
try! To  send  the  remaining  horses  after  these,  might  be 
•'sending  the  axe  after  the  belv" ;"  besides  most  of  them 
hehingcd  to  the  free  trappers,  and  could  not  be  pressed 
into  the  service. 

The  only  course  remaining  was  to  select  the  best  men 
and  dispatch  them  on  foot,  to  overtake  and  retake  the 
stolen  horses.  Accordingly  one  hundred  trappers  were 
ordered  on  this  expedition,  among  whom  were  Meek, 
Newell,  and  Antoine  Godin,  a  half-breed  and  brave  fellow, 
who  was  to  lead  the  party.  Following  the  trail  of 
the  Crows  for  two  hundred  miles,  traveling  day  and  night, 
on  tlie  third  day  they  came  up  with  them  on  a  branch  of 
the  Bighorn  river  The  trappers  advanced  cautiously, 
and  being  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  stream,  on  a  wooded 
bluff"  were  enabled  to  approach  close  enough  to  look  into 
their  fort,  and  count  the  unsuspecting  thieves.  There 
were  sixty  of  them,  line  young  braves,  who  believed  that 
now  they  had  made  a  start  in  life.  Alas,  for  the  vanity 
of  human,  and  especially  of  Crow  expectations !  Even 
then,  while  they  were  grouped  around  their  fires,  congratu- 
lating themselves  on  the  sudden  wc  alth  which  had  descend- 
ed u})on  them,  as  it  were  from  the  skies,  an  envious  fete, 
in  the  shape  of  several  roguish  white  trappers,  was  li^ugh,- 


7i'P!HB ' I 


f>8 


NIGHT    ATTACK    ON    THE    INDIAN    FORT. 


I- J' 


ing  at  them  aiid  their  hopes,  from  the  overhanging  bhifi' 
opposite  them.  And  hy  and  by,  when  they  were  wrapped 
ill  a  satisfied  shiniber,  two  of  these  hiughing  rogues,  Rob- 
ert Newell,  and  Antoine  Godin,  stole  under  the  very 
walls  of  their  fort,  and  setting  the  horses  free,  drove  them 
across  the  creek.  . 

The  Indians  were  awakened  by  the  noise  of  the  tramp- 
ling horses,  and  sprang  to  arms.  But  Meek  and  his  fellow- 
trappers  on  the  bluff'  fired  into  the  fort  with  such  effect 
that  the  Crows  were  appalled.  Having  delivered  their 
first  volley,  they  did  not  wait  for  the  savages  to  recover 
from  their  recoil.  Mounting  in  hot  haste,  the  cavalcade 
of  bare-back  riders,  and  their  drove  of  horses,  were  soon 
far  away  from  the  Crow  fort,  leaving  the  ambitious  braves 
to  finish  their  excursion  on  foot.  It  was  afterwards  ascer- 
tained that  the  Crows  lost  seven  men  by  that  one  volley 
of  the  trappers.     '''■■■  f-'   -^  '  !;' 

Flushed  with  success,  the  trappers  yet  found  the  back- 
ward journey  more  toilsome  than  the  outward ;  for  what 
with  sleeplessness  and  fiitiguc,  and  bad  traveling  in  melted 
snow,  they  were  pretty  well  exhausted  when  they  reached 
camp.  Fearing,  however,  another  raid  from  the  thieving 
Crows,  the  camp  got  in  motion  again  with  as  little  delay 
as  possible.  They  had  not  gone  far,  when  Fitzpatrick 
turned  back,  with  only  one  man,  to  go  to  St.  Louis  for 
supplies.         -.V.-. .. . 

After  the  departure  of  Fitzpatrick,  Bridger  and  Sublette 
completed  their  spring  and  summer  campaign  without  any 
material  loss  in  men  or  animals,  and  with  considerable 
gain  in  beaver  skins.  Having  once  more  visited  the  Yel- 
lowstone, they  turned  to  the  south  again,  crossing  the 
mountains  into  Pierre'a  Hole,  on  to  Snake  river ;  thence 
to  Salt  river  ;  thence  to  Bear  river ;  and  thence  to  Green 
river,  to  rendezvous. 


A    ••  MEDICINE    MAN       CONSULTED. 


99 


It  was  expected  that  Fitzpatrick  would  have  arrived 
from  St.  Louis  with  the  usual  annual  recruits  and  supplies 
of  merchandise,  in  time  for  the  summer  rendezvous ;  but 
after  waiting  for  some  time  in  vain,  Bridger  and  Sublette 
determined  to  send  out  a  small  party  to  look  for  hini. 
The  large  number  of  men  now  employed,  had  exhausted 
the  stock  of  goods  on  hand.  The  camp  was  without 
blankets  and  without  ammunition  ;  knives  were  not  to  be 
had;  traps  were  scarce;  but  worse  tlian  all,  the  tobacco 
liad  given  out,  and  alcohol  was  not !  In  such  a  case  as 
this,  what  could  a  mountain- man  do'? 

To  seek  the  missing  Booshway  became  not  only  a  dut", 
but  a  necessity ;  and  not  only  a  necessity  of  the  physical 
man,  but  in  an  equal  degree  a  need  of  the  moral  and  spir- 
itual man,  which  was  rusting  with  the  tedium  of  waiting. 
In  the  state  of  uncertainty  in  which  the  minds  of  the  com- 
pany were  involved,  it  occurred  to  that  of  Frapp  to  'Con- 
sult a  great  "'medicine-man"  of  the  Crows,  one  of  those 
recruits  filched  from  Mr._  Ogden's  party  by  whiskey  the 
previous  year.     '  ■-  -■'  '•    ..-i^.n  c.^^  „. „^f  ...„i..    .^^. 

Like  all  eminent  professional  men,  the  Crow  chief  re- 
quired a  generous  fee,  of  the  value  of  a  horse  or  two, 
before  he  would  begin  to  make  "medicine."  This  pecul- 
iar ceremony  is  pretty  much  alike  among  all  the  different 
tribes.  It  is  observed  first  in  the  making  of  a  medicine 
man,  «^  e.,  qualifying  him  for  his  profession;  and  after- 
wards is  practiced  to  enable  him  to  heal  the  sick,  to 
prophecy,  and  to  dream  dreams,  or  even  to  give  victory 
to  his  people.  To  a  medicine-man  was  imputed  great 
power,  not  only  to  cure,  but  to  kill ;  and  if,  as  it  some- 
times happened,  the  relatives  of  a  sick  man  suspected  the 
medicine-mau  of  having  caused  his  death,  by  the  exercise 
of  evil  powers,  one  of  them,  or  all  of  them,  pursued  him 


100 


HOW    MEDICINE    MEN    ARE    MADE. 


::: 


to  the  death.     Therefore,  although  it  might  bo  honorable, 
it  was  not  always  safe  to  be  a  great  "medicine."  m 

The  Indians  placed  a  sort  of  religious  value  upon  the 
practice  of  fasting ;  a  somewhat  curious  fact,  when  it  is 
remembered  how  many  compulsory  fasts  they  are  obliged 
to  endure,  which  must  train  them  to  think  lightly  of  the 
deprivation  of  food.  Those,  however,  who  could  endure 
voluntary  abstinence  long  enougli,  were  enabled  to  be- 
come very  wise  and  very  brave.  The  manner  of  maldng 
a  "medicine"  among  some  of  the  interior  tribes,  is  in  cer- 
tain respects  similar  to  the  practice  gone  through  with  by 
some  preachers,  in  making  a  convert.  A  sort  of  camp- 
meeting  i^  held,  for  several  nights,  generally  about  five, 
during  which  various  dances  are  performed,  with  cries, 
and  incantations,  bodily  exercises,  singing,  and  nervous 
excitement ;  enough  to  make  many  patients,  instead  of 
one  doctor.  But  the  native's  constitution  is  a  strong  one, 
and  he  holds  out  well.  At  last,  however,  one  or  more 
are  overcome  with  the  mysterious  poiver  which  enters  into 
them  at  that  time :  making,  instead  of  a  saint,  only  a  su- 
perstitious Indian  doctor.  "■'     •"  "iil.Ji.JO.V: 

The  same  sort  of  exercises  which  had  made  the  Crec 
man  a  doctor  were  now  resorted  to,  in  order  that  he  might 
obtain  a  more  than  natural  sight,  enabling  him  to  see  vis- 
ions of  the  air,  or  at  the  least  to  endow  him  with  pro- 
phetic dreams.  After  several  niglits  of  singing,  dancing, 
hopping,  screeching,  beating  of  drums,  and  other  more 
violent  exercises  and  contortions,  the  exhausted  medicine- 
man fell  off  to  sleep,  and  when  he  awoke  he  announced 
to  Frapp  that  Fitzpatrick  was  not  dead.  He  was  on  the 
road;  some  road;  but  not  the  right  one;  etc.,  etc. 

Thus  encouraged.  Frapp  determined  to  take  a  party, 
and  go  in  search  of  him.  Accordingly  Meek,  Reese, 
Ebarts,  and  Nelson,  volunteered  to  accompany  him.     This 


THE    MISSING   TKADEIl   FOUND. 


101 


party  set  out,  first  hi  the  direction  of  Wind  River ;  but 
not  discovering  any  signs  of  the  lost  Booshwaj  in  thnt 
([uarter,  crossed  over  to  the  Sweetwater,  and  kept  along 
down  to  the  North  Fork  of  the  Platte,  and  thence  to  the 
Black  Hills,  where  they  found  a  beautiful  country  full  of 
game;  but  not  the  hoped-for  train,  with  supplies.  After 
waiting  for  a  short  time  at  the  Black  Hills,  Frapp's  party 
returned  to  the  North  Fork  of  the  Platte,  and  were 
rejoiced  to  meet  at  last,  the  long  absent  partner,  Avith  his 
[)ack  train.  Urged  by  Frapp,  Fitzpatrick  hastened  for- 
ward, and  came  into  camp  on  Powder  River  after  winter 
had  set  in. 

Fitzpatrick  had  a  tale  to  tell  the  other  partners,  in  ex- 
l)lanation  of  his  unexpected  delay.  When  he  had  started 
for  St.  Louis  in  the  month  of  March  previous,  he  had 
hoped  to  have  met  the  old  partners,  Capt.  Sublette  and 
Jedediah  Smith,  and  to  have  obtained  the  necessary  sup- 
plies from  them,  to  furnish  the  Summer  rendezvous  with 
plerity.  But  these  gentlemen,  when  he  fell  in  with  them, 
used  certain  arguments  which  induced  him  to  turn  back, 
and  accompany  them  to  Santa  Fe,  where  they  prom- 
ised to  furnish  him  goods,  as  he  desired,  and  to  procure 
for  him  an  escort  at  that  place.  The  journey  had  proven 
tedious,  and  unfortunate.  They  had  several  times  been 
aUacked  by  Indians,  and  Smith  had  been  killed.  While 
they  were  camped  on  a  small  tributary  of  the  Simmaron 
River,  Smith  had  gone  a  short  distance  from  camp  to  pro- 
cure water,  and  while  at  the  stream,  was  surprised  by  an 
ambush,  and  murdered  on  the  spot,  his  murderers  escaping 
unpunished.  Sublette,  now  left  alone  in  the  business, 
finally  furnished  him ;  and  he  had  at  Ijist  made  his  ^vyay 
back  to  his  Rocky  Mountain  camp. 

But  Fitzpatrick's  content  at  being  once  more  with  his 
company  was  poisoned  by  the  disagreeable  proximi1:y  of  a 


<ii 


'    1 


"piWWII  !"    n. 


102 


EXPEDITION    ON    SNOW    SHOES. 


rival  company.  If  he  had  annoyed  Mr.  Ogden  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company,  in  the  previous  autumn,  Major 
Vandcrburg  and  Mr.  Dripps,  of  the  American  Company, 
J  in  their  turn  annoyed  him.  Tiiis  com})}i,ny  had  been  on 
their  heels,  from  the  Platte  River,  and  now  were  camped 
in  the  same  neighborhood,  using  the  Rocky  Mountain 
Company  as  pilots  to  show  them  the  country.  As  this 
was  just  what  it  was  not  for  their  interest  to  do,  the 
Hocky  Mountain  Company  raised  camp,  and  fairly  ran 
away  from  them ;  crossing  the  mountains  to  the  Forks  of 
ihe  Snake  River,  where  they  wintered  among  the  Nez  Per- 
ces  and  Flathead  Indians.  ,,[oy^ 

Some  time  during  this  winter,  Meek  and  Legarde,  who 
had  escaped  from  the  Pawnees,  made  another  expedition 
together ;  traveling  three  hundred  miles  on  snowshoes,  to 
the  Bitter  Root  River,  to  look  for  a  party  of  free  trappers, 
whose  beaver  the  company  wished  to  secure.  They  were 
absent  two  months  and  a  half,  on  this  errand,  and  were 
entirely  successful,  passing  a  Blackfoot  village  in  the 
night,  but  having  no  adventures  worth  recounting. 


'ioff      ftr    I-:'  'I'l     >■(-!;[:   ■  fl  ■■  -of !: 


hr:r 


■/U,M.;.  ■ 


V'l.f'iU'}:      'j'''i' 


■"t "  -:.  '  'f. 


■  :      ■  r  ■: 


•■,'•'■  I 


lU 


.,^  !h-^^ 


.'  >,?!''-   f-.,*  ->.->■;:- 


?i 


f ",  I 


7n'|-;.^;S;'j^*  ; 


ii'T-i/irrt  .iuj-j,'  ",: 


Y^ 


•d  •>  !        1     '- 


'■\:^;        '■■■■ 


»  !•'  ;..  V'.':.    Iv"*'!-  ,  "i'    •■'    ■• 


1 


'<    ANNOYING    COMPETITION. 


103 


CHAPTER    VI. 


1832.  In  the  following  spring,  the  Rocky  Mountain  Fur 
Company  commenced  its  march,  first  up  Lewis'  Fork,  then 
on  to  Salt  River,  thence  to  Gray's  River,  and  thence  to 
Bear  River.  They  fell  in  with  the  North  American  Fur 
Company  on  the  latter  river,  with  a  large  lot  of  goods, 
but  no  beaver.  The  American  Company's  resident  part- 
ners were  ignorant  of  the  country,  and  were  greatly  at  a 
loss  where  to  look  for  the  good  trapping  grounds.  These 
gentlemen,  Vanderburg  and  Dripps,  were  therefore  in- 
clined to  keep  an  eye  on  the  movements  of  the  Rocky 
Mountain  Company,  whose  leaders  were  acquainted  with 
the  whole  region  lying  along  the  mountains,  from  the 
head-waters  of  the  Colorado  to  the  northern  branches  of 
the  Missouri.  On  the  other  hand,  the  Rocky  Mountain 
Company  were  anxious  to  "shake  the  dust  from  off  their 
feet,"  which  was  trodden  by  the  American  Company,  and 
to  avoid  the  evils  of  competition  in  an  Indian  country. 
But  they  found  the  effort  quite  useless ;  the  rival  company 
had  a  habit  of  turning  up  in  the  most  unexpected  places, 
and  taking  advantage  of  the  hard-earned  experience  of 
the  Rocky  Mountain  Company's  leaders.  They  tampered 
with  the  trappers,  and  ferreted  out  the  secret  of  their  next  ren- 
dezvous ;  they  followed  on  their  trail,  making  them  |:ilots 
to  the  trapping  grounds ;  they  sold  goods  to  the  Indians, 
and  what  was  worse,  to  the  hired  trappers.  In  this  way 
grew  up  that  fierce  conflict  of  interests,  which  made  it  "as 
much  as  his  life  was  worth"  for  a  trapper  to  suffer  himself 


Hi 


'^'l 


104 


THE    CHIEF  S   DAUGHTER — SUBLETTE    WOUNDED. 


■  1                                                                 ■  :i 

r                                                 -V   1 

i     ' 

to  be  inveigled  into  the  service  of  a  rival  company,  which 
about  this  time' or  a  little  later,  was  at  its  highest,  and 
which  finally  ruined  the  fur-trade  for  the  American  cofli- 
panics  in  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

Finding  their  rivals  in  possession  of  the  ground,  Bridger 
and  Milton  Sublette  resolved  to  spend  but  a  few  days  in 
that  country.  But  so  far  as  Sublette  was  concerned,  cir- 
cumstances ordered  differently.  A  Rockway  Chief,  named 
Gray,  and  seven  of  his  people,  had  accompanied  the  camp 
from  Ogden's  Hole,  in  the  capacity  of  trappers.  But  dur- 
ing the  sojourn  on  Bear  River,  there  was  a  quarrel  in 
camp  on  account  of  some  indignity,  real  or  fancied,  which 
had  been  offered  to  the  chief's  daughter,  and  in  the  affray 
Gray  stabbed  Sublette  so  severely  that  it  was  thought  he 
must  die.     •"'    ■■•■■'■■■■■ 

It  thus  fell  out  that  Sublette  had  to  be  left  behind ;  and 
Meek  who  was  his  favorite,  was  left  to  take  care  of  him 
while  he  lived,  and  bury  him  if  he  died ;  which  trouble 
Sublette  saved  hira,  however,  by  getting  well.  But  they 
had  forty  lonesome  days  to  themselves  after  the  camps 
had  moved  off, — one  on  the  heels  of  the  other,  to  the 
great  vexation  of  Bridger.  Time  passed  slowly  1^  Sub- 
lette's lodge,  while  waiting  for  his  wound  to  heal  Day 
passed  after  day,  so  entirely  like  each  other  that  the  mo- 
notony alone  seemed  sufficient  to  invite  death  to  an  easy 
conquest.  But  the  mountain-man's  blood,  like  the  In- 
dians, is  strong  and  pure,  and  his  flesh  heals  readily,  there- 
fore, since  death  would  not  have  him,  the  wounded  man 
was  forced  to  accept  of  life  in  just  this  monotonous  form. 
To  him  Joe  Meek  was  everything, — hands,  feet,  physician, 
guard,  caterer,  hunter,  cook,  companion,  friend.  What 
long  talks  they  had,  when  Sublette  grew  better :  what 
stories  they  told ;  what  little  glimpses  of  a  secret  chamber 
in  their  hearts,  and  a  better  than  the  every-day  spirit,  in 


CAPTURED    BY    SNAKE    INDIANS, 


105 


their  bosoms,  was  revealed, — as  men  will  revoiil  such 
things  in  the  isolation  of  sea-voyages,  or  the  solitary  pres- 
ence of  majestic  Nature.  '  r        I     ,M,.|.l    :'.<.,/ 

To  the  veteran  mountaineer  there  must  have  been 
something  soothing  in  the  care  and  friendshij)  of  the 
youth  of  twenty-two,  with  his  daring  dis])osition,  his  frank- 
ness, his  cheerful  humor,  and  his  gixKl  looks; — for  our  Joe 
was  growing  to  be  a  maturely  handsome  man — tall,  broad- 
shouldered,  straight,  with  plenty  of  flesh,  and  none  too 
much  of  it;  a  Southerner's  olive  complexion;  fnmk,  dark 
eyes,  and  a  classical  nose  and  chin.  What  though  in  the 
matter  of  dres.^  he  was  ignorant  of  the  latest  styles? — 
grace  imparts  elegance  even  to  the  trapper's  beaver-skin 
cap  and  blanket  capote. 

At  the  end  of  forty  days,  as  many  as  it  took  to  drown 
a  world,  Sublette  found  himself  well  enough  to  ride ;  and 
the  two  set  out  on  their  search  for  camp.  But  now  other 
adventures  awaited  them.  On  a  fork  of  Green  River, 
they  came  suddenly  upon  a  band  of  Snake  Indians  feed- 
ing their  horses.  As  soon  as  the  Snakes  discovered  the 
white  men,  they  set  up  a  yell,  and  made  an  instinctive 
rush  for  their  horses.  Now  was  the  critical  moment. 
One  word  passed  between  the  travelers,  and  they  made  a 
dash  past  the  savages,  right  into  the  village,  and  never 
slacked  rein  until  they  threw  themselves  from  their  horses 
at  the  door  of  the  Medicine  lodge.  This  is  a  large  and  fan- 
cifully decorated  lodge,  which  stands  in  the  centre  of  a  vil- 
lage, and  like  the  churches  of  Christians,  is  sacred.  Once 
inside  of  this,  the  strangers  were  safe  for  the  present ;  their 
blood  could  not  be  shed  there. 

The  warriors  of  the  village  soon  followed  Sublette  and 
Meek  into  their  strange  house  of  refuge.  In  half  an 
hour  it  was  filled.  Not  a  word  was  addressed  to  the 
strangers ;  nor  by  them  to  the  Indians,  who  talked  among 


rr-\ 


I         |:? 


i. 


i  i 


i 


1 

I   i 


lOG 


A    80LEMN    COUNCIL — 8ENTENCK    OF    DEATU. 


themselves  with  a  solemn  eagerness,  while  they  smoked 
the  medieine  pipe,  as  inspiration  in  tiieir  conncils.  (ireat 
was  the  excitement  in  the  mitids  of  tiie  listeners,  who  un- 
derstood the  Snake  tongue,  as  the  qu(;stion  of  their  life  or 
death  was  gravely  tliscussed;  yet  in  their  countenances 
appeared  only  the  utmost  serenity.  To  show  fear,  is  to 
whet  an  Indian's  appetite  lbrl)lood:  coolness  confounds 
and  awes  him  when  anything  will. 

If  Sublette  had  longed  for  excitement,  while  an  invalid 
in  his  lonely  lodge  on  B(,'ar  River,  he  longed  equally  now 
for  that  blissful  seclusion.  Listening  for,  and  hearing 
one's  death-warrant  from  a  band  of  blood-thirsty  savages, 
could  only  prove  with  bitter  sharpness  how  sweet  was  life, 
even  the  most  uneventful.  For  liours  the  council  continued, 
and  the  majority  favored  the  death-sentence.  But  one  old 
chief,  called  the  good  Gofia,  argued  long  for  an  acquittal: 
he  did  not  see  the  necessity  of  murdering  two  harmless 
travelers  of  the  white  race.  Nothing  availed,  however, 
and  just  at  sunset  their  doom  was  fixed.  i  ,  -  ,,  ,^^ 
.'.+  The  only  hope  of  escape  was,  that,  favored  by  darkness, 
they  might  elude  the  vigilance  of  their  jailers ;  and  night, 
although  so  near,  seemed  ages  away,  even  at  sundown. 
Death  being  decreed,  the  warriors  left  the  lodge  one  by 
one  to  attend  to  the  preparation  of  the  prelimiriary  cere- 
monies. Gotia,  the  good,  was  the  last  to  depart.  As  he 
left  the  Medicine  lodge  he  made  sigDs  to  the  captives  to 
remain  quiet  until  he  should  return ;  pointing  upwards  to 
signify  that  there  was  a  chance  of  life ;  and  downwards 
to  show  that  possibly  they  must  die. 

What  an  age  of  anxiety  was  that  hour  of  waiting !  Not 
a  word  had  been  exchanged  between  the  prisoners  since 
the  Indians  entered  the  lodge,  until  now ;  and  now  very 
little  was  said,  for  speech  would  draw  upon  them  the  vigi- 
lance of  their  enemy,  by  whom  they  desired  most  ar- 
dently to  be  forgotten. 


A    KESCUIK — UMKNTUL'KEN,    TUM    MOI'NTAIN    L\MH. 


10' 


About  dusk  thoro  was  a  groat  iioiso,  and  confusion,  and 
clouds  of  (lust,  in  the  south  end  of  the  vilhige.  Some 
thing  was  going  wrong  among  tlio  Indian  liorscs.  Ininie- 
(lintoly  all  tin;  village  ran  to  the  scene  of  the  disorder, 
iiiid  at  the  same  moment  (Jotia,  tlie  good,  appeared  at  the 
(luoriof  the  M(!(licino  lodge,  l)eekoning  the  prisoners  to 
tollow  liim.  With  alacrity  they  sprang  up  and  after  him, 
iuul  were  led  across  the  stream,  to  a  tliicket  on  the  oppo- 
site side,  where  their  horses  stood,  ready  to  mount,  in  the 
charge  of  a  young  Indian  girl.  They  did  not  stop  for 
coni])linionts,  though  had  time  been  less  precious,  they 
might  well  have  bestowed  some  moments  of  it  in  admira- 
tion of  Umentiicken  l^nkuisey  Undcicatsef/,  the  Mountain 
ijumb.  Soon  after,  the  beautiful  Snake  girl  became  the  wife 
of  Milton  Sublette ;  and  after  his  return  to  the  States,  of  the 
subject  of  this  narrative ;  from  which  circumstance  the 
incident  above  related  takes  on  something  of  the  rosy  hue 
of  ronvmce  ''■'^^■■'  ■    '•ffi)'i/»yi       'imut  e\i}i{\,r  uii>  'l-   •j-f.^r.-.-.-iv  . 

As  each  released  captive  received  his  bridle  from  the 
delicate  hand  of  the  Mountain  Lamb,  he  sprang  to  the 
saddle.  Bv  this  time  the  chief  had  discovered  that  the 
strangers  understood  the  Snake  dialect.  "Ride,  if  you 
wish  to  live,"  said  he:  "ride  without  stopping,  all  night: 
and  to-morrow  linger  not."  With  hurried  thanks  our 
mountain-men  replied  to  this  advice,  and  striking  into  a 
gallop,  were  soon  far  away  from  the  Snake  village.  The 
luxt  day  at  noon  found  them  a  hundred  and  fifty  miles  on 
their  way  to  camp.  Proceeding  without  further  accident, 
thoy  crossed  the  Teton  Mountains,  and  joined  the  com- 
pany at  Pierre's  Hole,  after  an  absence  of  nearly  four 
months. 

Here  they  found  the  ubiquitous  if  not  omnipresent 
American  Fur  Company  encamped  at  the  rendezvous  of 
the  Rocky  Mountain  Company.     The  partners  being  anx 

•pol  od  oJ  i^nob 


108 


AN    OHSTINATK    ItlVAL. 


ioufi  to  be  freed  from  this  sort  of  ospionnp^o,  and  ol)stinatc 
competition  on  their  own  ground,  miul(»  u  proj)()sition  to 
VundiThnri:;  and  Dripps  to  divide  the  country  with  tlieiii, 
each  company  to  keep  on  its  own  territory.  Tiiis  ijropo.si- 
tion  was  refused  l)y  the  American  Company;  ))eriiaps  be- 
cause they  feared  having  tlic  poorer  portion  set  (^(1'  to 
tliemselves  by  tlieir  mon^  experienced  rivals.  On  this  re- 
fusal, the  Uocky  Mountain  Company  determined  to  send 
ail  express  to  meet  Capt.  William  riublette,  who  was  ou 
his  way  out  with  a  heavy  stock  of  merchandise,  and  hurry 
him  forward,  lest  the  American  Com])any  should  have  the 
opportunity  of  disposing  of  its  goods,  when  the  usual 
gathering  to  rendezvous  began.  On  this  decision  being 
formed,  Fitzpatrick  determined  to  go  on  this  errand  him- 
self; which  he  accordingly  did,  falling  in  with  Sublette, 
and  Campl)ell,  his  associate,  somewhere  near  the  Black 
Hills.  To  them  he  imparted  his  wishes  and  designs,  and 
receiving  the  assurance  of  an  early  arrival  at  rendezvous, 
parted  from  them  at  the  Sweetwater,  and  hastened  back, 
alone,  as  he  came,  to  prepare  for  business. 

Captain  Sublette  hurried  forward  with  his  train,  which 
consisted  of  sixty  men  with  pack-horses,  three  to  a  man. 
In  company  with  him,  was  Mr.  Nathaniel  Wyeth,  a  history 
of  wdiose  fur-trading  and  salmon-fishing  adventures  has 
already  been  given.  Captain  Sublette  had  fallen  in  with 
Mr.  Wyeth  at  Independence,  Missouri ;  and  finding  him 
ignorant  of  the  undertaking  on  which  he  was  launched, 
offered  to  become  pilot  and  traveling  compajuion,  an  offer 
which  was  gratefully  accepted. 

The  caravan  had  reached  the  foot-hills  of  the  Wind 
River  Mountains,  when  the  raw  recruits  belonging  to  both 
these  parties  were  treated  to  a  slight  foretaste  of  what 
Indian  fighting  would  be,  should  they  ever  have  to  en- 
counter it.     Their  camp  was  suddenly  aroused  at  midnight 


t 


iit/patiuck's  auvkntdre  in  thk  vointains.      109 

by  the  siiniiltiUR'OUH  discliarf^o  of  p:uiis  and  arrowH,  and 
the  IVi^'litful  wlioojjs  uiul  yoils  with  which  the  savages 
make  an  attack.  Nobody  was  wounded,  liowever;  but 
on  s|>riii^^iiig  to  arms,  the  Indians  lied,  lal<iii<,^  with  them 
a  few  liorses  wliich  their  yells  had  lri^ht(;iied  (Voiii  tlieir 
pickets.  These  niarau(h)rs  were  Jilaclvrcet,  as  Captain 
Siiljlette  e.\[)lained  to  Mr.  VVyetli,  tlieir  nioecasin  tracks 
haviuj^-  b(!trayed  th(.'m;  lor  as  each  tribe  has  a  peculiar 
wav  of  making  or  shaping  the  moccasin,  the  ex})ert  in 
liuliaii  habits  can  detect  the  nationality  t)t"  an  Indian  thief 
by  his  i'oot-print.  After  this  episode  of  the  night  assault, 
the  leaders  redoubled  their  watchfulness,  and  reached 
their  destination  in  Pierre's  hole  about  the  iirst  of  July.  ^  . 

When  Sublette  arrived  in  camp,  it  was  found  that  Fitz- 
|)atrick  was  missing.  If  the  other  })!irtner8  had  believed 
liini  to  be  with  the  Captain,  the  Captain  expected  to  find 
liini  with  them;  but  since  neither  could  account  to  the 
otfier  for  his  non-appearance,  much  anxiety  was  fell,  and 
Sublette  remembered  with  apprehension  the  visit  he  had 
received  from  Blackfeet.  However,  before  any'thing  had 
been  determined  upon  with  regard  to  him,  he  jnade  his 
appearance  in  camp,  in  com])any  with  two  Iroquois  half- 
breeds,  belonging  to  the  camp,  who  had  been  out  on  a 
hunt. 

ritz[)at:ick  had  met  with  an  adventure,  as  had  been 
conjectured.  While  coming  up  the  Green  river  valley, 
ho  descried  a  snudl  party  of  mounted  men,  wliom  he  mis- 
took for  a  company  of  trappers,  and  stopped  to  recon- 
noitre; l)ut  almost  at  the  same  moment  the  supposed 
trappers,  perceiving  him,  set  up  a  yell  that  cpuckly  unde- 
ceived him,  and  conipelh.Ml  him  to  "".^ht.  Abandoning 
liis  pack-horse,  he  put  the  other  io  its  topmost  speed 
and  succeeded  in  gaining  the  mountains,  where  in  a  deep 
and  dark  defile  he  secretca  himself  until  he  judged  the 


'7     I 


110 


ROUGH   SPORTS. 


Indians  had  left  tliat  part  of  the  valley.  In  tliis  he  was 
deceived,  for  no  sooner  did  he  emerge  again  into  the  open 
country,  than  he  was  once  more  pursued,  and  had  to 
abandon  his  horse,  to  take  refuge  among  the  cliffs  of  the 
mountains.  Here  he  renuiined  for  several  days,  without 
blankets  or  provisions,  and  with  only  one  charge  of  am- 
munition, wliich  was  in  his  rifle,  and  kept  for  self  defense. 
At  length,  howevei',  by  frequent  reconnoitoring,  he  man- 
aged to  elude  his  enemies,  traveling  by  night,  until  he 
fortunately  met  Avitli  the  two  hunters  from  camp,  and  was 
conveyed  by  them  to  the  rendezvous. 

All  the  parties  were  now  safely  in.  Tiic  lonely  moun- 
tain Aalley  was  populous  with  the  diifei'ent  camps.  The 
Rocky  Mountain  and  American  companies  had  their  sep- 
arate camps ;  Wyeth  had  his ;  a  company  of  free  trappers, 
fifteen  in  number,  led  by  a  man  named  Sinclair,  from  Ar- 
kansas, had  the  fourth ;  the  Nez  Perccs  and  Flatheads,  the 
allies  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  company,  and  the  friends  of 
the  whites,  had  their  lodges  along  all  the  streams ;  so  that 
altogetlier  there  could  not  have  beeu  less  than  one  thou- 
sand souls,  and  two  or  three  thousand  horses  ;ind  mules 
gathered  in  this  ])lace. 

"When  the  pie  was  opened  then  the  birds  began  to 
sing."  When  Captsiin  Sublette's  goods  were  opened  and 
distributed  among  the  trappers  and  Indians,  then  began 
the  usual  gay  carousal;  and  the  "fast  young  men"  of  the 
mountains  outvied  each  other  in  all  manner  of  mad  pranks. 
In  the  beginning  of  their  spree  many  feats  of  horseman- 
ship and  personal  strength  were  exhibited,  which  were 
regarded  witli  admiring  wonder  by  the  sober  and  inexpe- 
rienced New  Englanders  under  ^Ir.  Wj^eths  command. 
And  as  nothing  stimulated  the  vanity  of  the  mountain- 
men  like  an  audience  of  this  sort,  the  feats  they  performed 
were  apt  to  astonish  themselves.     In  exhibitions  of  the 


-^^ 


A    MAN    ON    in:E — AX    EXPEDITION    TO    THE    SOUTH-WEBT.   lii 


kind,  the  free  trappers  took  the  lend,  and  usually  carried 
off  the  palm,  like  the  privileged  class  that  they  were. 

But  the  horse-racing,  fine  riding,  wrestling,  and  all  the 
manlier  sports,  soon  degenerated  into  the  baser  exhibi- 
tions of  a  ''cra>.y  drunk  "  condition.  The  vessel  in  which 
the  trapj)er  received  and  carried  about  his  supply  of  alco- 
hol was  one  of  the  small  camp  kettles.  "Passing  round" 
this  clumsy  goblet  very  freely,  it  was  not  long  before  a 
yoodly  number  were  in  the  condition  just  named,  and 
ready  for  any  mad  freak  whatever.  It  is  reported  by  sev- 
eral of  the  mountain-men  that  on  the  occasion  of  one  of 
these  "frolics,"  one  of  their  number  seized  a  kettle  of  al- 
cohol, and  poured  it  over  the  head  of  a  tall,  lank,  red- 
headed fellow,  repeating  as  he  did  so  the  baptismal  cere- 
mony. No  sooner  had  he  concluded,  than  another  man 
with  a  lighted  stick,  touched  him  wish  the  blaze,  vrhen  in 
an  instant  he  was  enveloped  in  flames.  Luckily  some  of 
the  company  had  sense  enough  left  to  perceive  his  danger, 
and  begaii  beating  him  with  pack-saddles  to  put  out  the 
bhize.  I>ut  between  the  burning  and  the  beating,  the 
unhappy  wretch  nearly  lost  his  life,  and 'never  recovered 
i'roiu  the  effects  of  his  baptism  by  fire.  .  .    , 

Beaver  being  plenty  in  camp,  business  was  correspond- 
ingly lively,  there  being  a  great  demand  for  goods.  When 
this  demand  was  supplied,  as  it  was  in  the  course  of  about 
three  weeks,  the  different  brigades  were  set  in  motion. 
One  ^i'  the  earliest  to  move  was  a  small  party  under  Mil- 
ton bubleUe,  including  his  constant  companion.  Meek. 
With  this  company,  no  more  than  thirty  in  number,  Sub- 
lette intended  to  explore  the  country  to  the  south-west, 
then  unknown  to  the  fur  companies,  and  to  proceed  as  far 
as  the  Humboldt  river  in  tliat  direction. 

On  the  17th  of  July  they  set  oat  toward  the  south  end 
of  the  valley,  and  having  made  but  about  eight  miles  the 


8 


i'i' 


■•ymrw'^!!^ — '^ 


112 


BLACKFEET   CARAVAN PEACEFUL   OVERTURES. 


first  day,  camped  that  niglit  near  a  pass  in  the  mountains. 
Wyeth's  party  of  raw  New  Englanders,  and  Sinclair's  free 
trappers,  had  johied  themselves  to  the  company  of  Milton 
Sublette,  and  swelled  the  number  in  camp  to  about 
sixty  men,  many  of  them  new  to  the  business  of  mountain 
life. 

Just  as  the  men  were  raising  camp  for  a  start  the  next 
i..orning,  a  caravan  was  observed  moving  down  the  moun- 
tain pass  into  the  valley.  No  alarm  was  at  first  felt,  as  an 
arrival  was  daily  expected  of  one  of  the  American  com- 
pany's partisans,  Mr.  Fontenelle,  and  his  company.  But 
on  reconnoitering  with  a  glass,  Sublette  discovered  them 
to  be  a  large  party  of  Blackfeet,  consisting  of  a  few 
mounted  men,  and  many  more,  men,  women,  and  children, 
on  foot.  At  the  instant  th'  r  were  discovered,  they  set  up 
the  usual  yell  of  defiance,  and  rushed  down  like  a  moun- 
tain torrent  into  the  valley,  flourishing  their  weapons,  and 
fluttering  their  gay  blankets  and  feathers  in  the  wind. 
There  was  no  doubt  as  to  the  warlike  intentions  of  the 
Blackfeet  in  general,  nor  was  it  for  a  moment  to  be  sup- 
posed that  any  peaceable  overture  on  their  part  meant 
anything  more  than  that  they  were  not  prepared  to  fight  at 
that  particular  juncture ;  therefore  let  not  the  reader  judge 
too  harshl}^  of  an  act  which  under  ordinary  circumstances 
would  have  been  infamous,  in  Indian  fighting,  every 
man  is  his  own  leader,  and  the  bravest  take  the  front 
rank.  On  this  occasion  there  were  two  of  Sublette's  men, 
one  a  half-breed  Iroquois,  the  other  a  Flathead  Indian, 
who  had  wrongs  of  their  own  to  avenge,  and  they  never 
let  slip  a  chance  of  killing  a  Blackfoot.  These  two  men 
rode  forth  alone  to  meet  the  enemy^  as  if  to  hold  a  "talk" 
with  the  principal  chief,  who  advanced  to  meet  them, 
bearing  the  pipe  of  peace.  When  the  chief  extended 
his  iiand,  Antonio  Godin,  the  half-breed,  took  it,  but  Q,t  the 


A    BATTLE REINFORCEMENTS. 


113 


same  moment  lie  ordered  the  Flathead  to  fire,  and  the 
chief  fell  dead.  The  two  trappers  galloped  back  to  camp, 
Antoine  bearing  for  a  trophy  the  scarlet  blanket  of  his 
enemy. 

This  action  made  it  impossible  to  postpone  the  battle, 
as  the  dead  chief  had  meant  to  do  by  peaceful  overtures, 
until  the  warriors  of  his  nation  came  up.  The  Blackfeet 
immediately  betook  themselves  to  a  swamp  formed  by  an 
old  beaver  dam,  and  thickly  overgrown  with  cotton -v,'ood 
and  willow,  matted  together  with  tough  vines.  On  the 
edge  of  this  dismal  covert  the  warriors  skulked,  and  shot 
with  their  guns  and  arrows,  while  in  its  very  midst  the 
women  emploj'^ed  themselves  in  digging  a  trench  and 
throwing  up  a  breastwork  of  logs,  and  whatever  came  to 
hand.  Such  a  defence  as  the  thicket  afforded  was  one  not 
easy  to  attack ;  its  unseen  but  certain  dangers  being  suffi- 
cient to  appal  the  stoutest  heart. 

Meantime,  an  express  had  been  sent  off  to  inform  Cap- 
tain Sublette  of  the  battle,  and  summon  assistance.  Sin- 
clair and  his  free  trappers,  with  Milton  Sublette's  small 
company,  were  the  only  fighting  men  at  hand.  Mr.  Wyeth, 
knowing  the  inefficiency  of  his  men  in  an  Indian  fight, 
had  them  entrenched  behind  their  packs,  and  there  left 
them  to  take  care  of  themselves,  but  charged  them  not  to 
appear  in  open  field.  As  for  the  fighting  men,  they  sta- 
tioned themselves  in  a  ravine,  where  they  could  occasion- 
ally pick  off  a  Blackfoot,  and  waited  for  reinforcements. 

Great  was  the  astonishment  of  the  Blackfeet,  who  be- 
lieved they  had  only  Milton  Sublette's  camp  to  fight,  when 
they  beheld  first  one  party  of  white  men  and  then  an- 
other ;  and  not  only  whites,  but  Nez  Perces  and  Flatheads 
came  galloping  up  the  valley.  If  before  it  had  been  a 
battle  to  destroy  the  whites,  it  was  now  a  battle  to  defend 
themselves.     Previous  to  the  arrival  of  Captain  Sublette, 


'1  'ijS 

■1 


114 


DEATH    OF    SINCfAIK. 


the  opposing  forces  had  kept  up  only  a  scattering  fire,  in 
which  nobody  on  the  side  of  the  trappers  had  been  either 
killed  or  wounded.  But  when  the  impetuous  captain 
arrived  on  the  battle-field,  he  prepared  for  less  guarded 
warfare.  Stripped  as  if  for  the  prize-ring,  and  armed 
cap-a-pie^  he  hastened  to  the  scene  of  action,  accompanied 
by  his  intimate  friend  and  associate  in  business,  Robert 
Campbell. 

At  sight  of  the  reinforcements,  and  their  vigorous 
movements,  the  Indians  at  the  edge  of  the  swamp  fell 
back  within  their  fort.  To  dislodge  them  was  a  danger- 
ous undertaking,  but  Captain  Sublette  was  determined  to 
make  the  effort.  Finding  the  trappers  generally  disin- 
clined to  enter  the  thicket,  he  set  the  example,  together 
with  Campbell,  and  thus  induced  some  of  the  free  trap- 
pers, with  their  leader,  Sinclair,  to  emulate  his  action. 
However,  the  others  took  courage  at  this,  and  advanced 
near  the  swamp,  firing  at  random  at  their  invisible  foe, 
who,  having  the  advantage  of  being  able  to  see  them,  in- 
flicted some  wounds  on  the  party. 

The  few  white  "braves"  who  had  resolved  to  enter  the 
swamp,  made  their  wills  as  they  went,  feeling  that  they 
were  upon  perilous  business.  Sublette,  Campbell,  and 
Sinclair  succeeded  in  penetrating  the  thicket  without 
jilarming  the  enemy,  and  came  at  length  to  a  more  open 
.s[)ace  from  whence  they  could  get  a  view  of  the  fort. 
From  this  they  learned  that  the  women  and  children  had 
retired  to  the  mountdns,  and  that  the  fort  was  a  slight 
affair,  covered  with  buffalo  robes  and  blankets  to  keep  out 
prying  eyes.  Moving  slowly  on,  some  slight  accident 
betrayed  their  vicinity,  and  the  next  moment  a  shot  struck 
Sinclair,  wounding  him  mortally.  He  spoke  to  Campbell, 
requesting  to  be  taken  to  his  brother.  By  this  time  some 
of  the  men  had  come  up,  and  he  was  given  in  charge  to 


SUBLETTE    WOUNDED. — A    FALSE   ALARM. 


115 


be  tal^en  back  to  camp.  Sublette  then  pressed  forward, 
and  seeing  an  Indian  looking  through  an  aperture,  aimed 
at  hini  with  fatal  effect.  No  sooner  had  he  done  so,  and 
pointed  out  the  opening  ^jPCampbell,  than  he  was  struck 
with  a  ball  in  the  shoul(^^,  which  nearly  prostrated  him, 
and  turned  him  so  faint  that  wmpbell  took  him  in  his 
arms  and  carried  him,  assisted  by  Meek,  out  of  the  swamp. 
At  the  same  time  one  of  the  men  received  a  wound  in  the 
head.  The  battle  was  now  carried  on  with  spirit,  although 
from  the  difficulty  of  approaching  the  fort,  the  firing  was 
very  irregular. 

The  mountaineers  who  followed  Sublette,  took  up  their 
station  in  the  woods  on  one  side  of  the  fort,  and  the  Nejj 
Perces,  under  Wyeth,  on  the  opposite  side,  which  acci- 
dental arrangement,  though  it  was  fatal  to  many  of  the 
Blackfeet  in  the  fort,  was  also  the  occasion  of  loss  to 
themselves  by  the  cross-fire.  The  whites  being  constantly 
reinforced  by  fresh  arrivals  from  the  rendezvous,  were 
soon  able  to  silence  the  guns  of  the  enemy,  but  they  were 
not  aljle  to  drive  them  from  their  fort,  where  they  re- 
mained silent  and  sullen  after  their  ammunition  was  ex- 
hausted. 

Seeing  that  the  women  of  the  Nez  Perces  and  Flat- 
heads  were  gathering  up  sticks  to  set  fire  to  their  breast- 
work of  logs,  an  old  chief  proclaimed  in  a  loud  voice 
from  within,  the  startling  intelligence  that  there  were 
four  hundred  lodges  of  his  people  close  at  hand,  who 
would  soon  be  there  to  avenge  their  deaths,  shonld  the 
whites  choose  to  reduce  them  to  ashes.  This  harangue, 
delivered  in  the  usual  high-flo-wn  style  of  Indian  oratory, 
either  was  not  clearly  understood,  or  was  wrongly  inter- 
preted, and  the  impression  got  abroad  that  an  attach  was 
being  made  on  the  great  encampment.  This  intelligence 
occasioned  a  diversion,  and  a  division  of  forces  ;  for  while 


*f 


.*«f(*ri'fn»|  ! 


IIG 


AN   EMPTY    FORT. 


"4 


a  small  party  was  left  to  watch  tlie  foi't,  the  rest  galloped 
in  hot  haste  to  the  rescue  of  the  m;aii  camp.  When  they 
arrived,  they  found  it  had  been  a  lalse  alarm,  but  it  wab 
too  late  to  return  that  night,  and  the  several  camps  re- 
mained where  they  were  until  the  next  day. 

Meantime  the  trappers  loft  to  guard  the  fort  remained 
stationed  within  the  wood  all  night,  firmly  believing  they 
had  their  enemy  "corraled,"  as  the  horsemen  of  the 
plains  would  say.  On  the  return,  in  the  morning,  of  their 
comrades  from  the  main  camp,  they  advanced  cautiously 
up  to  the  breastwork  of  logs,  and  behold !  not  a  buffalo 
skin  nor  red  blanket  was  to  be  seen !  Through  the  crevi- 
ces among  the  logs  was  seen  an  empty  ^jrt.  On  making 
this  discovery  there  was  much  chagrin  among  the  white 
trappers,  and  much  lamentation  among  the  Indian  allies, 
who  had  abandoned  the  burning  of  the  fort  expressly  to 
save  for  themselves  the  fine  blankets  and  other  goods  of 
their  hereditary  foes.  ^^^ 

From  the  reluctance  displayed  by  the  trappers,  in  the 
beginning  of  the  battle,  to  engage  with  the  Indians  while 
under  cover  of  the  woods,  it  must  not  be  inferred  that 
they  were  lacking  in  courage.  They  were  too  well  in- 
formed in  Indian  modes  of  warfare  to  venture  recklessly 
into  the  den  of  death,  which  a  savage  ambush  was  quite 
sure  to  bo.  The  very  result  which  attended  the  impetu- 
osity of  their  leaders,  in  the  death  of  Sinclair  and  the 
wounding  of  Captain  Sublette,  proved  them  not  over 
cautious. 

On  entering  the  fort,  the  dead  bodies  of  ten  Blackfeet 
were  found,  besides  others  dead  outside  the  fort,  and  over 
thirty  horses,  some  of  which  were  recognized  as  those 
stolen  from  Sublette's  night  camp  on  the  other  side  of 
the  mountains,  besides  those  abandoned  by  Fitzpatrick 
Doubtless  the  rascals  had  followed  his  trail  to  Pierre's 


THE    BLACKFOOT    WOMAN. 


117 


Hole,  not  thinking,  however,  to  come  upon  so  large  a 
camp  as  they  found  at  last.  The  savage  garrison  which 
had  so  cunningly  contrived  to  elude  the  guard  set  upon 
them,  carried  off  some  of  their  wounded,  and,  perhaps,  also 
some  of  their  dead  ;  for  they  acknowledged  afterwards  a 
much  larger  loss  than  appeared  at  the  time.  Besides  Sin- 
clair, there  were  five  other  white  men  killed,  one  half- 
breed,  and  seven  Nez  Perces.  About  the  same  number 
of  whites  and  their  Indian  allies  were  wounded. 

An  instance  of  female  devotion  is  recorded  by  Bonne- 
ville's liistorian  as  having  occurred  at  this  battle.  On  the 
morning  following  it,  as  the  whites  were  exploring  the 
tliickets  about  the  fort,  they  discovered  a  Blackfoot 
woman  leaning  silent  and  motionless  against  a  tree.  Ac- 
cording to  Mr.  Irving,  whose  fine  feeling  for  the  sex 
would  incline  him  to  put  faith  in  this  bit  of  romance, 
'■  their  surprise  at  her  lingering  here  alone,  to  fall  into  the 
hands  of  her  enemies,  was  dispelled  when  they  saw  the 
corpse  of  a  warrior  at  her  feet.  Either  she  was  so  lost  in 
grief  as  not  to  perceive  their  approach,  or  a  proud  spirit 
kept  her  silent  and  motionless.  The  Indians  set  up  a  yell 
on  discovering  her,  and  before  the  trappers  could  inter- 
fere, her  mangled  body  fell  upon  the  corpse  which  she  had 
refused  to  abandon."  This  version  is  true  in  the  main  in- 
cidents, but  untrue  in  the  sentiment.  The  woman's  leg 
had  been  broken  by  a  ball,  and  she  was  unable  to  move 
from  the  spot  where  she  leaned.  When  the  trappers  ap- 
proached her,  she  stretched  out  her  hands  supplicatingly, 
crying  out  in  a  wailing  voice,  "  kill  me !  kill  me !  0  white 
men,  kill  me !  " — but  this  the  trappers  had  no  disposition 
to  do.  While  she  was  entreating  them,  and  they  refusing, 
a  ball  from  some  vengeful  Nez  Perce  or  Flathead  put  an 
end  to  her  sufferings. 

Still  remembering  the  threats  of  the  Blackfoot  chief, 


« 


1  f 

I  I 


"'f^^rnm^r- 


US 


AN    EXPECTED    BATTLE. 


that  four  hundred  lodges  of  liis  brethren  were  advancing 
on  the  valley,  all  the  com  panics  returned  to  rendezvous, 
and  remained  for  several  days,  to  see  whether  an  attack 
should  take  place.  But  if  there  had  ever  jjeen  any  such 
intention  on  the  part  of  the  Blackfoot  nation,  the  timely 
lesson  bestowed  on  their  advance  guard  had  warned  them 
to  quit  the  neighborhood  of  the  whites. 

Captain  Sublette's  wound  was  dressed  by  Mr.  Wyeth's 
physician,  and  although  it  hindered  his  departure  for  St. 
Louis  for  some  time,  it  did  not  prevent  his  making  his 
usual  journey  later  in  the  season.  It  was  as  well,  per- 
haps, that  he  did  not  set  out  earlier,  for  of  a  party  of 
seven  who  started  for  St.  Louis  a  few  days  after  the  battle, 
three  were  killed  in  Jackson's  Hole,  where  they  fell  in 
with  the  four  hundred  wai'riors  with  whom  the  Blackfoot 
chief  threatened  the  whites  at  the  battle  of  Pierre's  Hole. 
From  the  story  of  the  four  survivors  who  escaped  and  re- 
turned to  camp,  there  could  no  longer  be  any  doubt  that 
the  big  village  of  the  Blackfeet  had  actually  been  upon 
the  trail  of  Capt.  Sublette,  expecting  an  easy  victory 
when  they  should  overtake  hi  in.  How  they  were  disap 
pointed  by  the  reception  met  with  by  the  advance  camp, 
has  already  been  related. 


MARCH    TO    THE    HUMBOLDT. 


119 


CHAPTER    VII. 


1832.  On  the  23d  of  July,  Milton  Sublette's  brigade 
and  the  company  of  Mr.  Wyeth  again  sot  out  for  the 
southwest,  and  met  no  more  serious  interruptions  while 
tliey  traveled  in  company.  On  the  head-waters  of  the 
Humboldt  River  they  separated,  Wyeth  proceeding  north 
to  the  Columbia,  and  Sublette  continuing  on  into  a  coun- 
try hitherto  untraversed  by  American  trappers. 

It  was  the  custom  of  a  camp  on  the  move  to  depend 
chiefly  on  the  men  employed  as  hunters  to  supply  them 
with  game,  the  sole  support  of  the  mountaineers.  When 
this  failed,  the  stock  on  hand  was  soon  exhausted,  and  the 
men  reduced  to  famine.  This  was  what  happened  to 
Sublette's  company  in  the  country  where  they  now  found 
themselves,  between  the  Owyhee  and  Humboldt  Rivers. 
Owing  to  the  arid  and  barren  nature  of  these  plains,  the 
largest  game  to  be  found  was  the  beaver,  whose  flesh 
proved  to  be  poisonous,  from  the  creature  having  eaten 
of  the  wild  parsnip  in  the  absence  of  its  favorite  food. 
The  men  were  made  ill  by  eating  of  beaver  flesh,  and  the 
horses  were  greatly  reduced  from  the  scarcity  of  grass 
and  the  entire  absence  of  the  cotton-wood. 

In  this  plight  Sublette  found  himself,  and  finally  re- 
solved to  turn  north,  in  the  hope  of  coming  upon  some 
better  and  more  hospitable  country.  The  sufferings  of 
the  men  now  became  terrible,  both  from  hunger  and 
thirst.  In  the  effort  to  appease  the  former,  everything 
was  eaten  that  could  be  eaten,  and  many  things  at  which 


i  il 


i 

i 


'  I  'I 


I 


120 


TP^RUIBLE    SUFFERING    FROM    HUNGER    AND    THIRST. 


the  woll-fed  man  would  .sicken  with  disgust.  "  I  have," 
says  Joe  Meek,  "held  my  hands  in  an  ant-hill  until  they 
were  covered  with  the  ants,  then  greedily  licked  them  off, 
[  have  taken  the  soles  (jfV  my  moccasins,  crisped  them  in 
the  fire,  and  eaten  them.  In  our  extremity,  the  largo 
black  crickets  which  are  found  in  this  country  were  con 
sidered  game.  We  used  to  take  a  kettle  of  hot  water, 
catch  the  crickets  and  throw  them  in,  and  when  they 
stopped  kicking,  eat  them.  That  was  not  what  we  called 
cant  fid'up  ko  hanch^  (good  meat,  my  friend),  but  it  kept 
us  alive."  '''^ 

Equally  abhorrent  exjiedients  were  resorted  to  in  order 
to  quench  thirst,  some  of  which  would  not  bear  mention. 
In  this  conditicm,  and  exposed  to  the  burning  suns  and 
the  dry  air  of  the  desert,  the  men  now  so  nearly  exhausted 
began  to  prey  upon  their  almost  equally  exhausted  ani- 
mals. At  night  when  they  made  their  camp,  by  mutual 
consent  a  mule  was  bled,  and  a  soup  made  from  its  blood. 
About  a  pint  was  usually  taken,  when  two  or  three  would 
mess  together  upon  this  reviving,  but  scanty  and  not  very 
palatable  dish.  But  this  mode  of  subsistence  could  not 
be  long  depended  on,  as  the  poor  mules  could  ill  alFord  to 
lose  blood  in  their  famishing  state ;  nor  could  the  men  af- 
ford to  lose  their  mules  where  there  was  a  chance  of  life: 
therefore  hungry  as  they  were,  the  men  were  cautious  in 
this  matter ;  and  it  genera,  ly  caused  a  quarrel  when  a  man's 
mule  was  selected  for  bleeding  by  the  others, 

A  few  times  a  mule  had  been  sacrificed  to  obtain  meat; 
and  in  this  case  the  poorest  one  was  always  selected,  so  h.'^ 
to  economise  the  chances  for  life  for  the  whole  band.  In 
this  extremity,  after  four  days  of  almost  total  abstinence 
and  several  weeks  of  famine,  the  company  reached  the 
Snake  River,  about  fifty  miles  above  the  fishing  falls,  where 
it  boils  and  dashes  over  the  rocks,  forming  very  strong 


t 


THE    COUNTRY    OF    TIIK    DlfJGEUH. 


121 


nipids.  Here  the  company  camped,  rejoiced  at  the  sight 
(if  the  ])ure  mountain  water,  but  still  in  want  of  food. 
During  the  inarch  a  horse's  back  had  become  sore  from 
some  cause;  probal)ly,  his  rider  thought,  because  the  sad- 
dle did  not  set  well;  and,  although  that  particular  animal 
was  selected  to  be  sacriliced  on  the  morrow,  as  one  that 
could  best  be  spared,  he  set  about  taking  the  stulling  out 
of  his  saddle  and  re-arranging  the  padding.  While  en- 
gaged in  this  considerate  labor,  he  uttered  a  cry  of  delight 
and  held  u})  to  view  a  large  brass  pin,  which  had  acciden- 
tally got  into  the  stuffing,  when  the  saddle  was  nuide,  and 
had  been  the  cause  of  all  the  mischief  to  his  horse. 

The  same  thought  struck  all  who  saw  the  pin:  it  was 
soon  converted  into  a  fish-hook,  a  line  was  spun  from  horse- 
hair, and  in  a  short  time  there  were  trout  enough  caught 
to  furnish  them  a  hearty  and  a  most  delicious  repast.  "In 
the  morning,"  says  Meek,  "we  went  on  our  way  rejoicing;" 
each  man  with  the  "five  fishes"  tied  to  his  saddle,  if  with- 
out any  "loaves."  This  was  the  end  of  their  severest  suf- 
fering, as  they  had  now  reached  a  country  where  absolute 
starvation  was  not  the  normal  condition  of  the  inhabitants; 
and  which  was  growing  more  and  more  bountiful,  as  they 
neared  the  Rocky  Mountains,  where  they  at  length  joined 
camp,  not  having  made  a  very  profitable  expedition. 

It  may  seem  incredible  to  the  reader  that  any  country 
so  poor  as  that  in  which  our  trappers  starved  could  have 
native  inhabitants.  Yet  such  was  the  fact ;  and  the  peo- 
ple who  lived  in  and  who  still  inhabit  this  barren  waste, 
were  called  Diggers^  from  their  mode  of  obtaining  their 
food — a  few  edible  roots  growing  in  low  grounds,  or  marshy 
places.  When  these  fail  them  they  subsist  as  did  our  trap- 
pers, by  hunting  crickets  and  field  mice.    .-...    ".    .  -..  !,.-.: 

Nothing  can  be  more  abject  than  the  appearance  of  the 
Digger  Indian,  in  the  faU,  as  he  roams  about,  without  food 


122 


SOMi:    ACCOUNT    OF    TUB    DIOOKKS 


and  witliout  woapoiiH,  save  porliaps  a  bow  and  arrows, 
with  his  (>ye8  fixed  upon  the  ground,  looi<ing  lor  crickets! 
So  des[)ical)le  Is  he,  tliat  lie  has  neitiiHr  enemies  nor  friends; 
and  tlie  neighboring  tribes  do  not  condescend  to  notice  his 
existence,  unless  indeed  he  should  come  in  their  way, 
when  they  would  not  think  it  nu)re  than  a  mirthful  act  to 
put  an  end  to  his  miserable  existence.  And  so  it  must  be 
confessed  the  trappers  regarded  him.  When  Sublette's 
party  first  struck  the  Humboldt,  Wyeth's  being  still  with 
tliem,  Joe  Meek  one  day  shot  a  Digger  who  was  prowling 
about  a  stream  where  his  traps  were  set. 

"  Why  did  you  shoot  him  V  "  asked  Wyeth. 

"To  keep  him  from  stealing  traps." 

"Had  he  stolen  any?" 

"  No  :  but  he  looked  as  if  lie  ivas  going  to  !  " 

This  recklessness  of  life  very  properly  distressed  the  just 
minded  New  Englander.  Yet  it  was  hard  for  the  trappers 
to  draw  lines  of  distinction  so  nice  as  his.  If  a  tribe  wa.s 
not  known  to  be  friendly,  it  was  a  rule  of  necessity  to  con 
sider  it  unfriendly.  The  abjectnoss  and  cowardice  of  the 
Diggers  was  tl:"fc  (Vuit  of  their  own  helpless  condition.  That 
they  had  the  savage  instinct,  held  in  check  only  by  cir- 
cumstances, '^  -t:-.  demonstrated  about  the  same  time  that 
Meek  shot  one,  by  his  being  pursued  by  four  of  them  when 
out  trapping  alone,  and  only  escaping  at  last  by  the  assis- 
tance of  one  of  his  comrades  who  came  to  the  rescue. 
They  could  not  fight,  like  the  Crows  and  Blackfeet,  but 
they  could  steal  and  murder,  when  they  had  a  safe  oppor 
tunity. 

It  would  be  an  interesting  study,  no  doubt,  to  the  phi- 
lanthropist, to  ascertain  in  how  great  a  degree  the  habits, 
manners,  and  morals  of  a  people  are  governed  by  their 
resources,  especially  by  the  f^aality  and  quantity  of  their 


COMl'AltlrtOX    OF    TUIHKH. 


123 


diet.     Hut  wlion  diet  and  cliiimte  are  both  taken  into  con- 
sideration, the  result  is  strikin*^. 

The  cliaracter  of  the  nhickf'eot  wlio  inhal)itod  the  pfood 
hijiitiii^^  fjironiuls  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
is  already  pretty  well  ^iven.  They  wore  tall,  sinewy,  well- 
iiia(k!  I'ellows;  p^ood  horsemen,  and  f^ood  li;:]^litcMS,  tiiough 
iiudinod  to  marauding  iind  murdering.  They  dressed  com- 
fortably and  even  hantlsomely,  as  dress  goes  amongst  sava- 
ges, and  altogether  were  more  to  be  feared  tlian  despised. 

The  rr<>ws  resembled  the  Blackfeet,  whose  enemies  they 
were,  in  all  tlie  before-mentioned  traits,  but  were  if  pos- 
sible, even  nu)re  ])redatory  in  their  habits.  Unlike  the 
Mla(;kfeet,  however,  they  were  not  the  enemies  of  all 
in.'uikind ;  and  even  were  disposed  to  cultivate  some  friend- 
liness with  the  white  traders  and  trappers,  in  order,  as 
they  acknowledged,  to  strengthen  their  own  hands 
against  the  Blackfeet.  They  too  inhabited  a  good  coun- 
try, full  of  game,  and  had  horses  in  abundance.  These 
were  the  mountain  tribes,  • 

(Comparing  these  with  the  coast  tribes,  there  was  a  strik- 
ing difference.  The  natives  of  the  Columbia  were  not  a 
t;dl  and  robust  people,  like  those  east  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, who  lived  by  hunting.  Their  height  rarely  exceeded 
five  feet  six  inches ;  their  forms  were  good,  rather  inclin- 
ing to  fatness,  their  faces  round,  features  coarse,  but 
complexion  light,  and  their  eyes  large  and  intelligent. 
The  custom  of  flattening  their  heads  in  infancy  gave  them 
a  grotesque  and  unnatural  appearance,  otherwise  they 
could  not  be  called  ill-looking.  On  the  first  advent  of 
white  men  among  them,  they  were  accustomed  to  go  en- 
tirely naked,  except  in  winter,  when  a  panther  skin,  or  a 
mantle  of  other  skins  sewed  together,  served  to  protect 
them  from  the  cold:  or  if  the  weather  was  rainy,  as  it 
generally  was  in  that  milder  climate,  a  long  mantle  of  rush 


124 


THE    INDIANS    OF    THE   LOWER   COLUMBIA. 


tA'^   . 


mats,  like  the  toga  of  the  ancient  Romans,  took  the  place 
of  that  made  of  skins.  To  this  was  added  a  conical  hat, 
woven  of  fibrous  roots,  and  gaily  painted. 

For  defensive  armor  they  were  provided  with  a  tunic 
of  elkskin  double,  descending  to  the  ankles,  with  holes  in 
it  for  the  arms,  and  quite  impenetrable  to  arrows.  A  hel- 
met of  similar  ma.,orial  covered  ib^  head,  rendering  them 
like  Achilles,  invulnerable  except  in  the  heels.  In  this 
secure  r'ress  they  went  to  battle  in  their  canoes,  notice 
being  first  given  to  the  enemy  of  the  intended  attack. 
Their  battles  might  therefore  be  termed  compound  duels, 
in  which  each  party  observed  great  punctiliousness  and 
decorum.  Painted  and  armor-encased,  the  warriors  in  two 
flotillas  of  canoes  were  rowed  to  the  battle  ground  by 
their  women,  when  the  battle  raged  furiously  for  some 
time ;  not,  however,  doing  any  great  harm  to  either  side. 
If  any  one  chanced  to  be  killed,  that  side  considered  itself 
beaten,  ard  retired  ^^'om  the  conflict  to  m.ourn  over  and 
bury  the  estimable  and  departed  brave.  If  the  case  was  a 
stubborn  one,  requiring  several  days  fighting,  the  oppo- 
nents encamped  near  each  other,  keeping  up  a  confusion 
of  cries,  taunts,  menaces,  and  raillery,  during  the  whole 
night ;  after  which  they  resumed  the  conflict,  and  contin- 
ued it  until  one  was  beaten.  If  a  village  was  to  be  at- 
tacked, notice  Ijeing  received,  thv-;  wo^rien  and  children 
were  removed :  and  if  the  village  was  beaten  they  made 
presents  to  their  conquerors.  Such  v,'"ere  the  decorous 
habits  of  the  warriors  of  the  lower  Columbia. 

These  were  the  people  who  lived  almost  exclusively  by 
fishing,  and  whose  climate  was  a  mild  and  moist  one.  Fish- 
ing, in  which  both  sexes  engaged  about  equally,  was  an  im- 
portant accomplishment,  since  it  was  by  fish  they  lived  in 
this  world ;  and  by  being  good  fishermen  that  they  had  hopes 
of  the  next  one.     The  houses  in  which  they  lived,  instead 


THEIR   HABITS,    CUSTOMS   AND    DRESS. 


125 


of  being  lodges  made  of  bufifalo  skins,  were  of  a  large 
size  and  very  well  constructed,  being  made  out  of  cedar 
planks.  An  excavation  was  first  made  in  the  earth  two  or 
three  feet  deep,  probably  to  secure  greater  warmth  in 
winter.  A  double  row  of  cedar  posts  was  then  planted 
firmly  all  round  the  excavation,  and  between  these  the 
planks  were  laid,  or,  sometimes  cedar  bark,  so  overlapped 
as  to  exclude  the  rain  and  wind.  The  ridge-pole  of  the 
roof  Avas  supported  on  a  row  of  taller  posts,  passing 
through  the  centre  of  the  buildin^',  and  notched  to  receive 
it.  The  rafters  were  then  covered  with  planks  or  bark, 
fastened  d^wn  with  ropes  mc.de  of  the  fibre  of  the  cedar 
bark.  A  house  made  in  this  manner,  and  often  a  hundred 
feet  long  by  thirty  or  forty  wide,  accommodated  several 
families,  who  each  had  their  separate  entrance  and  fire- 
place ;  the  entrance  being  by  a  low  oval-shaped  door,  and 
a  flight  of  steps.  -  ,< 

The  canoes  of  these  people  were  each  cut  out  of  a  single 
log  of  cedar ;  and  were  often  thirty  feet  long  and  five 
wide  at  midships.  They  were  gaily  painted,  and  their 
shape  was  handsome,  with  a  very  long  bow  so  constructed 
as  to  cut  the  surf  in  landing  with  the  greatest  ease,  or  the 
more  readily  to  go  through  a  rough  sea.  The  oars  were 
about  five  feet  long,  and  bent  in  the  shape  of  a  crescent ; 
which  shape  enabled  them  to  draw  them  edgewise  through 
the  water  with  little  or  no  noise 
an  important  quality  in  hunting  th 
always  caught  sleeping  on  the  rocks. 

The  single  instrument  which  sufT'ced  to  build  canoes 
and  houses  was  the  chisel ;  generally  being  a  piece  of  old 
iron  obtained  from  some  vessel  and  fixed  in  a  wooden 
handle.  A  stone  mallet  aided  them  in  using  the  chisel ; 
and  with  this  simple  ''kit"  of  tools  they  contrived  to 
manufacture  plates,  bowls,  carved  oars,  and  many  orna- 
mental thinffa  '      ^  -' 


this  noiselessness  being 
sea  otter,  which  is 


126 


INDIAN    COMMERCE. 


Like  the  men  of  all  savage  nations,  they  made  slaves  of 
their  captives,  and  their  women.  The  dress  of  the  latter 
consisted  merely  of  a  short  petticoat,  manufactured  from 
the  fibre  of  the  cedar  bark,  previously  soaked  and  pre- 
pared. This  material  was  worked  into  a  fringe,  attached 
to  a  girdle,  and  only  long  enough  to  reach  the  middle  of 
the  thigh.  When  the  season  required  it,  they  added  a 
mantle  of  skins.  Their  bodies  were  anointoc"'  Avi  '  ^ish  oil, 
and  sometimes  painted  with  red  ochre  in  inj  .'  >f  the 
men.  For  ornaments  they  wore  st"!ngs  of  glass  beads, 
and  also  of  a  white  shell  found  on  the  northern  coast,  called 
haiqua.  Such  were  the  ChinooJcs^  who  lived  upon  the 
coast. 

Farther  up  the  river,  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  Cascade 
range  of  mountains,  a  people  lived,  the  same,  yet  different 
from  the  Chinooks.  They  resembled  them  in  form,  fea- 
tures, and  manner  of  getting  a  living.  But  they  were 
more  warlike  and  more  enterprising ;  they  even  had  some 
notions  of  commerce,  being  traders  between  the  coa 
Indians  and  those  to  the  east  of  them.  They  too  v  t:  • 
great  fishermen,  but  used  the  net  instead  of  fishing  '*■■ 
boats.  Great  scaffoldings  were  erect  "d  every  year  at  the 
narrows  of  the  Columbia,  known  as  the  Dalles,  where,  as 
the  salmon  passed  i;p  the  river  in  the  spring,  in  incredible 
numbers,  they  were  caught  and  dried.  After  drying,  the 
fish  were  then  pounded  fine  between  two  stones,  pressed 
tightly  into  packages  or  bales  of  about  ?  ,  >: '  Ired  pounds, 
covered  with  matting,  and  corded  up  for  transporij  :»» 
The  bales  were  then  placed  in  storehouses  built  to  re.(  ^'" 
them,  where  they  awaited  customers. 

By  and  by  there  came  from  the  ''oast  other  Indians, 
with  different  varieties  of  fish,  lo  ejvch;  »'re  for  the  salmon 
in  the  Wish-ram  warehouses.  And  by  end  by  there  came 
from  the  plains  to  the  eastward,  others  who  had  horses, 


'■^K 


5  'iS   lied  01 

'■'■'■       lay  be 


i!     ' 


THE   INDIANS    OF    THE    PLAINS. 


127 


i    •!■   i 


laves  of 
le  latter 
ed  from 
.nd  pre- 
ittached 
iddle  of 
added  a 
'Ish  oil, 
>'(  the 
3  beads, 
st,  called 
pon  the 

Cascade 
different 
orm,  fea- 
ley  were 
lad  some 
he  coa 
too  vt  • 
shiii^  •: 
ar  at  the 
v^here,  as 
icredible 
yring,  the 
pressed 
pounds, 
lori  .1  ■ '  yp 

Indians, 
e  salmon 
ere  came 
horses, 


camiis-root,  bear-grass,  fur  rones,  and  whatever  constituted 
the  wealth  of  the  mountains  and  plains,  to  exchange  for 
the  rich  and  nutritious  salmon  of  the  Columbia.  These 
Wish-ram  Indians  were  sharp  traders,  and  usually  made 
something  by  their  exchanges;  so  that  they  grew  rich 
and  insolent,  and  it  was  dangerous  for  the  unwary 
stranger  to  pass  their  way.  Of  all  the  tribes  of  the  Co- 
hnnbia,  they  perpetrated  the  most  outrages  upon  their 
neighbors,  the  passi^-.g  traveler,  and  the  stranger  within 
their  gates. 

Still  farther  to  the  east,  on  the  great  grassy  plains,  wa- 
tered by  beautiful  streams,  coming  down  from  the  moun- 
tains, lived  the  Cayuses,  Yakimas,  Nez  Perces,  Wallah- 
Wallahs,  and  Flatheads ;  as  different  in  thrir  appearance 
and  habits  as  their  different  modes  of  living  would  nat- 
urally make  them.  Instead  of  having  many  canoes,  they 
had  many  horses ;  and  in  place  of  drawing  the  fishing  net, 
or  trolling  lazily  along  with  hook  and  line,  or  spearing 
fish  from  a  canoe,  they  rode  pell-mell  to  the  chase,  or  sal- 
lied out  to  battle  with  the  hostile  Blackfeet,  whose  country 
lay  between  them  and  the  good  hunting-grounds,  where 
he  great  herds  of  buffalo  were.  Being  Nimrods  by  na- 
ture, they  were  dressed  in  complete  suits  of  skins,  instead 
of  going  naked,  like  their  biethren  \a  the  lower  country. 
Being  wandering  nnd  pastoral  in  their  habits,  they  lived 
in  loc'ges,  which  could  Le  planted  every  night  and  raised 
every  morning.       ..-,.,.-     ., ., 

TYSir  women,  too,  were  good  riders,  and  comfortably 
clad  in  dressed  skins,  kept  white  with  chalk.  So  wealthy 
wore  some  of  the  chiefs  that  they  could  count  their  fifteen 
hundred  head  of  horses  grazing  on  their  graGsy  uplands. 
Horse-racing  was  their  delight,  and  betting  on  them  their 
besetting  vice.  For  bridles  they  used  horse-hair  cords, 
attached  around  the  animal's  mouth.     This  was  sufl&cient 


rii: 


H 


WTf^ 


128 


THE    HORSES   OF    THE    PLAINS. 


rj. 


to  check  him,  and  by  laying  a  hand  on  this  side  or  that  of 
the  horse's  neck,  the  rider  could  wheel  him  in  either  direc- 
tion. The  simple  and  easy-fitting  saddle  was  a  stuffed 
deer-skin,  Avith  stirrups  of  Avood,  resembling  in  shape  those 
used  by  the  Mexicans,  and  covered  with  deer-skin  sewed 
•  a  wet,  so  as  to  tighten  in  drying.  The  saddles  of  the 
wc  were  furnished  with  a  pair  of  deer's  antlers  for  the 
pomix^ol. 

In  many  things  their  customs  and  accoutrements  resem- 
bled those  of  the  Mexicans,  from  whom,  no  doubt,  they 
were  borrowed.  Like  the  Mexican,  they  threw  the  lasso 
to  catch  the  wild  horse.  Their  horses,  too,  were  of  Mex- 
ican stock,  and  many  of  them  bore  the  brand  of  that 
country,  having  been  obtained  in  some  of  their  not  infre- 
quent journeys  into  California  and  New  Mexico. 

As  all  the  wild  horses  of  America  are  said  to  have 
spnmg  from  a  small  band,  turned  loose  upon  the  plains 
by  Cortez,  it  would  be  interesting  to  know  at  what  time 
they  came  to  be  used  by  the  northern  Indians,  or  whether 
the  horse  and  the  Indian  did  not  emigrate  together.  If  the 
horse  came  to  the  Indian,  great  must  have  been  the  change 
effected  by  the  advent  of  this  new  element  in  the  savage's 
life.  It  is  impossible  to  conceive,  however,  that  the  In- 
dian ever  could  have  lived  on  these  immense  plains,  barren 
of  everything  but  wild  grass,  without  his  horse.  With 
him  he  does  well  enough,  for  he  not  only  "lives  on  horse- 
back," by  which  means  he  can  quickly  reach  a  country 
aboundhig  in  game,  but  he  literally  hves  on  horse-fleeh, 
when  other  game  is  scarce. 

Curious  as  the  fact  may  seem,  the  Indians  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Columbia  and  those  of  New  Mexico  speak  languages 
similar  in  construction  to  that  of  the  Aztecs;  and  from 
this  fact,  and  the  others  before  mentioned,  it  may  be  very 
fairly  inferred  that  difference  of  circuin stances  and  locali- 
ties have  made  of  the  different  tribes  what  they  are. 


THE   INDIAN  S   MORAL   NATURE. 


129 


As  to  the  Indian's  moral  nature,  that  is  pretty  much  alike 
everywhere ;  and  with  some  rare  exceptions,  the  rarest  of 
wliich  is,  perhaps,  the  Flathead  and  Nez  Perces  nations, 
all  are  cruel,  thieving,  and  treacherous.  The  Indian  gos- 
pel is  literally  the  "gospel  of  blood";  an  "eye  for  an 
eye,  and  a  tooth  for  a  tooth."  Vengeance  is  as  much  a 
commandment  to  him  as  any  part  of  the  decalogue  is  to 
the  Christian.  But  we  have  digressed  far  from  our  narra- 
tive; and  as  it  will  be  necessary  to  refer  to  the  subject  of 
the  moral  code  of  savages  further  on  in  our  narrative,  we 
leave  it  for  the  present. 

After  the  incident  of  the  pin  and  the  fishes,  Sublette's 
party  kept  on  to  the  north,  coursing  along  up  Payette's 
River  to  Payette  Lake,  where  he  camped,  and  the  men 
went  out  trapping.  A  party  of  four,  cc  nsisting  of  Meek, 
Antoine  Goclin,  Louis  Leaugar,  and  Small,  proceeded  to  the 
north  as  far  as  the  Salmon  river  and  beyond,  to  the  head 
of  one  of  its  tributaries,  where  the  present  city  of  Flor- 
ence is  located.  While  camped  in  this  region,  three  of 
the  men  went  out  one  day  to  look  for  their  horses,  which 
had  strayed  away,  or  been  stolen  by  the  Indians.  During 
their  absence.  Meek,  who  remained  in  camp,  had  killed  a 
fine  fot  deer,  and  was  cooking  a  portion  of  it,  when  he 
saw  a  band  of  about  a  hundred  Indians  approaching,  and 
so  near  were  they  that  flight  was  almost  certainly  useless ; 
yet  as  a  hundred  against  one  was  very  great  odds,  and 
running  away  from  them  would  not  increase  their  number, 
while  it  gave  him  something  to  do  in  his  own  defence,  he 
took  to  his  heels  and  ran  as  only  a  mountain-man  can  run. 
Instead,  however,  of  pursuing  him,  the  practical-minded 
braves  set  about  finishing  his  cooking  for  him,  and  soon 
had  the  whole  deer  roasting  before  the  fire.  .  _ .  / 

This  procedure  provoked  the  gastronomic  ire  of  our 
trapper,  and  after  watching  them  for  some  time  from  his 


\i'H 


>  I    'I 


(    '  ^4  . : 


n;   h 


m 


It  - 


'y/imtf: 


130 


A   TRAP    SET    FOR   A    RIVAL. 


hiding-place,  lie  determined  to  return  and  share  the  feast. 
On  reaching  camp  again,  and  introducing  hunself  to  his 
not  over -scrupulous  visitors,  he  found  they  were  from  the 
Nez  Perces  tribe  inhabiting  that  region,  who,  having  been 
so  rude  as  to  devour  his  stock  of  provisions,  invited  him 
to  accompany  them  to  their  village,  not  a  great  way  off, 
where  they  would  make  some  return  for  his  involvntary 
hospitality.  This  he  did,  and  there  found  his  three  com- 
rades and  all  their  horses.  While  still  visiting  at  the  Nez 
Perces  village,  they  were  joined  by  the  remaining  portion 
of  Sublette's  command,  when  the  whole  company  started 
south  again.  Passing  Payette's  lake  to  the  east,  traversing 
the  Boise  Basin,  going  to  the  head-waters  of  that  river, 
thence  to  the  Malade,  thence  to  Godin's  river,  and  finally 
to  the  forks  of  the  Salmon,  where  they  found  the  main 
camp.  Captain  Bonneville,  of  whose  three  years  wander- 
ings in  the  wilderness  Mr.  Irving  has  given  a  full  and  in- 
teresting account,  was  encamped  in  the  same  neighbor- 
hood, and  had  built  there  a  small  lort  or  trading-house, 
and  finally  wintered  in  the  neighborhood. 

An  exchange  of  men  now  took  place,  and  Meek  went 
east  of  the  mountains  under  Fitzpatrick  and  Bridger. 
When  these  famous  leaders  had  first  set  out  for  the  sum- 
mer hunt,  after  the  battle  of  Pierre's  Hole,  their  course 
had  been  to  the  head-waters  of  the  Missouri,  to  the  Yeh 
lowstone  lake,  and  the  forks  of  the  Missouri,  some  of  the 
best  beaver  grounds  known  to  them.  But  finding  their 
steps  dogged  by  the  American  Fur  Company,  and  not 
wishing  to  be  made  use  of  as  pilots  by  their  rivals,  they 
had  flitted  about  for  a  time  like  an  Arab  camp,  in  the  en- 
deavor to  blind  them,  and  finally  returned  to  the  west  side 
of  the  mountains,  where  JVTeek  fell  in  with  them. 

Exasperated   by   the   perseverance  of   the   American 
Company,  they  had  come  to  the  determination  of  leading 


A    CRUEL   DEVICE. 


131 


them  a  march  which  should  tiro  them  of  the  practice  of 
k'eeping  at  their  heels.  They  therefore  planned  an  expe- 
dition, from  which  they  expected  no  other  profit  than  that 
of  hakiiig  off  their  rivals.  Taking  no  pains  to  conceal 
then-  expedition,  they  rather  held  out  the  bait  to  the 
American  Company,  who,  unsuspicious  of  their  purpose, 
took  it  readily  enough.  They  led  them  along  across  the 
mountains,  and  on  to  the  head-waters  of  the  Missouri. 
Here,  packing  up  their  traps,  they  tarried  not  for  beaver, 
nor  even  tried  to  avoid  the  Blackfeet,  but  pushed  right 
ahead,  into  the  very  heart  of  their  country,  keeping  away 
from  any  part  of  it  where  beaver  might  be  found,  and 
going  away  on  beyond,  to  the  elevated  plains,  quite  des- 
titute of  that  small  but  dcbirable  game,  but  followed 
through  it  by  their  rivals. 

However  justifiable  on  the  part  of  trade  this  move- 
ment of  the  Rocky  Mountain  Company  might  have  been, 
it  was  a  cruel  device  as  concerned  the  inexperienced  lead- 
ers of  the  other  company,  one  of  whom  lost  his  life  in 
consequence.  Not  knowing  of  their  danger,  they  only 
discovered  their  situation  in  the  midst  of  Blackfeet, 
after  discovering  the  ruse  that  had  been  played  upon 
them.  They  then  halted,  and  being  determined  to  find 
beaver,  divided  their  forces  and  set  out  in  opposite  direc- 
tions for  that  purpose.  Unhappily,  Major  Vanderburg 
took  the  worst  possible  direction  for  a  small  party  to  take, 
and  had  not  traveled  far  when  his  scouts  came  upon  the 
still  smoking  camp-fires  of  a  band  of  Indians  who  were 
returning  from  a  buffalo  hunt.  From  the  "signs"  left 
behind  them,  the  scout  judged  that  they  had  become 
aware  of  the  near  neighborhood  of  white  men,  and  from 
their  having  stolen  off,  he  judged  that  they  were  only 
gone  for  others  of  their  nation,  or  to  prepare  for  war. 

But  Vanderburg,  with  the  fool-hardiness  of   one  not 


m 


11 


132 


AN    AMBUSH — DEATH   OF    VAjnDEIIBURG. 


"up  to  Blackfect,"  determined  to  ascertain  for  himself 
wluit  there  was  to  fear ;  and  taking  with  him  half  a  score 
of  his  followers,  put  himself  upon  their  trail,  galloping 
hard  after  them,  until,  in  his  rashness,  he  found  himself 
being  led  through  a  dark  and  deep  defile,  rendered  darker 
and  gloomier  by  overhanging  trees.  In  the  midst  of  this 
dismal  place,  just  where  an  ambush  might  have  been  ex- 
pected, he  was  attacked  by  a  horde  of  savages,  who 
rushed  upon  his  little  party  with  whoops  and  frantic  ges- 
tures, intended  not  only  to  appal  the  riders,  but  to  frighten 
their  horses,  and  thus  make  surer  their  bloody  butchery. 
It  was  but  the  work  of  a  few  minutes  to  consummate  their 
demoniac  purpose.  Yanderburg's  horse  was  shot  down 
at  once,  falling  on  his  rider,  whom  the  Indians  quickly 
dispatched.  One  or  two  of  the  men  were  instantly  toma- 
hawked, and  the  others  wounded  while  making  their  es- 
cape to  camp.  The  remainder  of  Yanderburg's  company, 
on  learning  the  fate  of  their  leader,  whose  place  there 
was  no  one  to  fill,  immediately  raised  camp  and  fled  with 
all  haste  to-  the  encampment  of  the  Pends  Oreille  Indians 
for  assistance.  Here  they  waited,  while  those  Indians,  a 
friendly  tribe,  made  an  eiFort  to  recover  the  body  of  their 
unfortunate  leader ;  but  the  remains  were  never  recovered, 
probably  having  first  been  fiendishly  mutilated,  and  then 
left  to  the  wolves. 

Fitzpatrick  and  Bridger,  finding  they  were  no  longer 
pursued  by  their  rivals,  as  the  season  advanced  began  to 
retrace  their  steps  toward  the  good  trapping  grounds. 
Being  used  to  Indian  wiles  and  Blackfeet  mn'  'udings  and 
ambushes,  they  traveled  in  close  columns,  and  never 
camped  or  turned  out  their  horses  to  feed,  without  the 


greatest  caution. 


Morning  and  evening  scouts  were  sent 


out  to  beat  up  every  thicket  or  ravine  that  seemed  to 
offer  concealment  to  a  foe,  and  the  horizon  was  searched 


AN   AFFRAY — THE    WOMAN    INTERPRETER. 


133 


in  every  (lircction  for  signs  of  an  Indian  attack.  The 
complete  salbty  of  the  camp  being  settled  almost  beyond 
a  peradventure,  the  horses  were  turned  loose,  though 
never  left  unguarded. 

It  was  not  likely,  however,  that  the  camp  should  pass 
through  the  Blackfoot  country  without  any  encounters 
with  that  nation.  When  it  had  reached  the  head-waters 
of  the  Missouri,  on  the  return  march,  a  party  of  trappers, 
including  Meek,  disco-  'red  a  small  band  of  Indians  in  a 
bend  of  the  lake,  and  thinking  the  opportunity  for  sport 
a  good  one,  commenced  firing  on  them.  The  Indians, 
who  were  without  guns,  took  to  the  lake  for  refuge,  while 
the  trappers  entertained  themselves  with  the  rare  amuse- 
ment of  keeping  them  in  the  water,  by  shooting  at  them 
occasionally.  But  it  chanced  that  these  were  only  a  few 
stragglers  from  th^  main  Blackfoot  camp,  which  soon 
came  up  and  put  an  end  to  the  sport  by  putting  f.hc  trap- 
pers to  flight  in  their  turn.  The  trappers  fled  to  camp, 
the  Indians  pursuing,  until  the  latter  discovered  that  they 
had  been  led  almost  into  the  large  camp  of  the  whites. 
This  occasioned  a  halt,  the  Blackfeet  not  caring  to  engage 
with  superior  numbers. 

In  the  p'tuse  which  ensued,  one  of  the  chiefs  came  out 
into  th-^  open  space,  bearing  the  peace  pipe,  and  Bridger 
also  advanced  to  meet  him,  but  carrying  his  gun  across 
the  pommel  of  his  saddle.  He  was  accompanied  by  a 
young  Blackfoot  woman,  wife  of  a  Mexican  in  his  service, 
as  interpreter.  The  chief  extended  his  hand  in  token  of 
amity ;  but  at  that  moment  Bridger  saw  a  movement  of 
the  chiefs,  which  he  took  to  mean  treachery,  and  cocked 
his  rifle.  But  the  lock  had  no  sooner  clicked  than  the 
chief,  a  large  and  powerful  man,  seized  the  gun  and 
turned  the  muzzle  downward,  when  the  contents  were 
discharged  into  the  earth.     With  another  dexterous  move- 


134 


BRAVERY    OF    HEIt    HUSBAND — HAPPY    FINALE, 


ment  ho  wrested  it  from  Bi-idj^er's  hand,  and  struck  him 
with  it,  i'eiliii<^  liim  to  the  ground.  In  an  instant  all  was 
confusion.  The  noise  of  whoops,  yells,  of  fire-arms,  and 
of  running  hither  and  thither,  gathered  like  a  tempest. 
At  the  lirst  burst  of  this  demoniac  blast,  the  horse  of  the 
interpreter  became  frightened,  and,  by  a  sudden  move- 
ment, unhorsed  her,  wheeling  and  running  back  to  camp. 
In  the  melee  which  now  ensued,  the  woman  was  carried 
off  by  the  Blackfeet,  and  Bridger  was  wounded  twice  in 
the  back  with  arrows.  A  chance  medley  fight  now  ensued, 
continuing  until  night  put  a  period  to  the  contest.  So 
well  matched  were  the  opposing  forces,  that  each  fought 
with  caution  firing  from  the  cover  of  thickets  and  from 


'O 


behind  rocks,  neither  side  doing  much  execution.  The 
loss  on  the  part  of  the  Blackfeet  was  nine  warriors,  and 
on  that  of  the  whites,  three  men  and  six  horses. 

As  for  the  young  Blackfoot  woman,  whose  people  re- 
tained her  a  prisoner,  her  lamentations  and  struggles  to 
escape  and  return  to  her  husband  and  child  so  wrought 
upon  the  young  Mexican,  who  was  the  pained  witness  of 
her  grief,  that  he  took  the  babe  in  his  arms,  and  galloped 
with  it  into  the  heart  of  the  Blackfoot  camp,  to  place  it 
in  the  arms  of  the  distracted  mother.  This  daring  act, 
which  all  who  witnessed  believed  would  cause  his  death, 
so  excited  the  admiration  of  the  Blackfoot  chief,  that  he 
gave  him  permission  to  return,  unharmed,  to  his  own 
camp.  Encouraged  by  this  clemency,  Loretta  begged  to 
have  his  wife  restored  to  him,  relating  how  he  had  res- 
cued her,  a  prisoner,  from  the  Crows,  who  would  certainly 
have  tortured  her  to  death.  The  wife  added  her  entreat- 
ies to  his,  but  the  chief  sternly  bade  him  depart,  and  as 
sternly  reminded  the  Blackfoot  girl'  that  she  belonged  to 
his  tribe,  and  could  not  go  with  his  enemies.     Loretta 


THE  MOUNTAIN  LAMB  AND  HER  CHH.D. 


135 


iged  to 
joretta 


was  therefore  compelled  to  abandon  his  wife  and  child, 
and  return  to  camp. 

It  is,  however,  gratifying  to  know  that  so  true  an  in- 
stance of  aOection  in  savage  life  was  linully  rinvarded  ; 
and  that  when  the  two  rival  fur  companies  united,  as  they 
(hd  in  the  following  year,  Loretta  was  p(Mmitted  to  go 
to  the  American  Company's  fort  on  the  Missouri,  in  the 
Blackfoot  country,  where  he  was  employed  as  interpreter, 
assisted  by  his  Blackfoot  wife. 

Such  were  some  of  the  incidents  that  signalized  this 
campaign  in  the  wilderness,  where  two  equally  persistent 
rivals  were  trying  to  outwit  one  another.  Subse(]uently, 
when  several  years  of  rivalry  had  somewhat  exiiausted 
both,  the  Rocky  Mountain  and  American  companies  con- 
solidated, using  all  their  strategy  thereafter  against  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company,  and  any  new  rival  that  chanced 
to  enter  their  hunting  grounds. 

After  the  fight  above  described,  the  Blackfcet  drew  off 
in  the  night,  showing  no  disposition  to  try  their  skill  next 
day  against  such  experienced  Indian  fighters  as  Bridger's 
brigade  had  shown  themselves.  The  company  continued 
in  the  Missouri  country,  trapping  and  taking  many  beaver, 
until  it  reached  the  Beaver  Head  Valley,  on  the  head- 
waters of  the  Jefferson  fork  of  the  Missouri.  'ir;e  the 
lateness  of  the  season  compelled  a  return  to  winter-quar- 
ters, and  by  Christmas  all  the  wanderers  were  gathered 
into  camp  at  the  forks  of  the  Snake  River. 

1833.  In  the  latter  part  of  January  it  became  neces- 
sary to  move  to  the  junction  of  the  Portneuf  to  subsist 
the  animals.  The  main  body  of  the  camp  had  gone  on 
in  advance,  while  some  few,  with  pack  horses,  or  women 
with  children,  were  scattered  along  the  trail.  Meek,  with 
five  others,  had  been  left  behind  to  gather  up  some  horses 
that  had  strayed.     When  about  a  half  day's  journey  from 


'f 


I  •• 


136 


INTENSE    COLU — NOUTllEUN    LIUIllU 


camp,  ho  overtook  ITmcNfuclm,  the  Mountain  Lamb,  now 
the  wife  of  Milton  Sublette,  with  her  child,  on  horseback. 
The  weather  was  terribly  cuhl,  and  seeming  to  grow 
cohler.  The  naked  plains  a  Horded  no  slielter  from  the 
piercing  winds,  and  the  air  I'airly  gUttered  with  frost, 
Poor  Umentueken  was  freezing,  but  more  troubled  about 
her  babe  than  herself  The  camp  was  far  ahead,  with  all 
the  extra  blankets,  and  the  prospect  was  imminent  that 
they  would  jjcrish.  Our  gallant  trapper  had  thought 
himself  very  cold  until  this  moment,  but  what  were  his 
sulferings  com])ared  to  those  of  the  Mountain  Lamb  and 
her  little  Laml)kin'?  Without  an  instant's  1  itatiou,  he 
divested  himself  of  his  blanket  capote,  whic  wrappedi 

rourd  the  mother  and  child,  and  urged  her  to  hasteu  to 
camp.  For  himself,  he  could  not  hasten,  as  he  had  the 
horses  in  charge,  but  all  that  fearful  afternoon  rode  naked 
above  the  waist,  exposed  to  the  wind,  and  the  line,  dry, 
icy  hail,  which  filled  the  air  as  with  diamond  needles,  to 
pierce  the  skin ;  and,  probably,  to  the  fact  that  the  hail 
was  so  stinging,  was  owing  the  fact  that  his  blood  did  not 
couQ-eal. 

O 

"  0  what  a  day  was  that!  "said  Meek  to  the  writer; 
"  why,  the  air  war  thick  with  fine,  sharp  hail,  and  the  sun 
shining,  too !  not  one  sun  only,  but  three  suns — there 
were  three  suns !  And  when  night  came  on,  the  northern 
lights  blazed  up  the  sky  !  It  was  the  most  beautiful  sight 
I  ever  saw.     That  is  the  country  for  northern  lights! " 

When  some  surprise  was  expressed  that  he  should  have 
been  obliged  to  expose  his  naked  skin  to  the  weather,  in 
order  to  save  Umentueken — "  In  the  mountains,"  he  an- 
swered, "we  do  not  have  many  garments.  Buckskin 
breeches,  a  blanket  capote,  and  a  beaver  skin  cap  makes 
up  our  rig."  .^    ,  ,.      .;    ;,;r,-      ,  :.:^ev:r.  55 ' 


SCARCITY    OF    FUEL — TUREATENKU    UV    FAMINE. 


U7 


"  You  do  not  ncod  a  liumdress,  tlicu  V  Hut  with  such 
dotliiiig  how  could  you  keep  f'roc  of  vuriuiu?" 

"We  didu't  ulwiiys  do  tluit.  l)o  you  want  to  know 
lioW  we  got  rid  of  lico  iu  the  niountaius  V  Wo  just  took 
otV  our  ch)thes  and  kid  thoiu  ou  an  ant-hill,  and  you 
oiif^'lit  to  see  how  the  ants  would  carry  oU'  the  lice ! " 

Hut  to  return  to  our  hero,  frozen,  or  nearly  ko.  When 
he  reached  camp  at  night,  so  desperate  was  his  condition 
that  the  men  had  to  roll  him  and  rub  him  in  the  snow  for 
some  time  before  allowing  him  to  a[)proach  the  lire.  But 
Uinentucken  was  saved,  and  he  bee;'  le  heroic  in  her  eyes. 
Whether  it  was  the  glory  acquired  by  the  gallant  act  just 
'  recorded,  or  whether  our  hero  had  now  arrived  at  an  age 
when  the  tender  jiassion  has  strongest  sway,  the  writer  is 
iuii)rej)ared  to  allirm  :  for  your  mountain-man  is  shy  of 
revealing  his  past  gallantries  ;  but  from  this  time  on,  there 
arc  evidences  of  considerable  susceptibility  to  the  charms 
of  the  dusky  beauties  of  the  mountains  and  the  plains. 

The  cold  of  this  winter  was  very  severe,  insomuch  that 
men  and  mules  were  frozen  to  death.  "  The  frost,"  says 
Meek,  "used  to  hang  from  the  roofs  of  our  lodges  in  the 
morning,  on  first  waking,  in  skeins  two  feet  long,  and  our 
blankets  and  whiskers  were  white  with  it.  But  we  trap- 
pers laid  still,  and  called  the  camp-keepers  to  make  a  lire, 
and  in  our  close  lodges  it  was  soon  warm  enough. 

"  The  Indians  suffered  very  much.  Fuel  war  scarce  on 
the  Snake  River,  and  but  little  fire  could  be  afibrded — 
just  sufficient  for  the  children  and  their  mothers  to  get 
warm  by,  for  the  fire  was  fed  only  with  buftiilo  fat  torn  in 
strips,  which  blazed  up  quickly  and  did  not  last  long. 
Many  a  time  I  have  stood  off,  looking  at  the  fire,  but  not 
venturing  to  approach,  when  a  chief  would  say,  '  Are  you 
cold,  my  friend?  come  to  the  fire' — so  kind  are  these 
Nez  Perces  and  Flatheads."    . 


■iiUJafi 


.■■I  ji] 


'i* 


\  lii 


!    f1 


I    1 


n 

& 
uti 


1  i'l 


^fmm 


138 


THE   DEN   OF   GRIZZLYS PUTNAM    OUTDONE. 


The  cold  was  not  the  only  enemy  in  camp  that  winter, 
but  famine  threatened  them.  The  buffalo  had  been  early 
driven  east  of  the  mountains,  and  other  game  was  scarce. 
Sometimes  a  party  of  hunters  were  absent  for  days,  even 
weeks,  without  anoing  more  game  than  woukl  subsist 
themselves.  As  the  trappers  were  all  hunters  in  the  win- 
ter, it  frequently  happened  that  Meek  and  one  or  more 
of  his  associates  went  on  a  hunt  in  company,  for  the  bene- 
fit of  the  camp,  which  was  very  hungry  at  times. 

On  one  of  these  hunting  expeditions  that  winter,  the 
party  consisting  of  Meek,  Hawkins,  Doughty,  and  Anioiiie 
Claymore,  they  had  been  out  nearly  a  fortnight  without 
killing  anything  of  consoquence.,  and  had  clambered  up 
the  side  of  the  m.oun tains  on  the  frozen  snow  in  hopes  o? 
finding  some  mountain  sheep.  As  they  traveled  along 
under  a  projecting  ledge  of  rocks,  they  came  to  a  place 
where  there  were  the  impressions  in  the  snow  of  enor- 
mous grizzly  bear  feet.  Close  by  was  c;n  opening  in  the 
rocks,  revealing  a  cavern,  and  to  this  the  tracks  ^n  the 
snow  conducted.  Evidcsntly  the  creature  had  conif  oat 
of  its  winter  den,  and  made  just  one  circuit  back  again. 
At  these  signs  of  game  the  hunters  hesitated — certain  it 
was  there,  but  doubtful  how  to  obtain  it. 

At  length  Doughty  proposed  to  get  up  on  the  rocks 
above  the  mouth  of  the  cavern  and  shoot  the  bear  as  he 
came  out,  if  somebody  would  go  in  and  dislodge  him. 

"  I'm  your  man,"  answered  Meek. 

"And  I  too,"  said  Claymore. 

"  111  be if  we  are  not  as  brave  as  you  are,"  said 

Hawkins,  as  he  prepared  to  follow.  ^   -i 

On  entering  the  cave,  which  was  sixteen  or  twenty  feet 
square,  and  high  enough  to  stand  erect  in,  instead  of  one, 
three  bears  were  discovered.  They  were  standing,  the 
largest  one  m  the  middle,  with  their  eyes  staring  at  th^ 


SECOND   DANIELS. 


139 


\,  winter, 
en  early 
s  scarce. 
ys,  even 
[  subsist 
the  win- 
or  more 
ho  bene- 

iter,  the 
Anioine 
without 
)ered  up 
hopes  0? 
^d  along 
»  a  }.ltice 
of  enor- 
13:  in  the 
'S  "n  the 

0111 P  O'lt 

;k  again, 
certain  it 

he  rocks 
ar  as  hp 
him. 


re 


"  said 


Mity  feet 
1  of  one, 
iiig,  the 
g  at  th-J 


entrance,  but  quite  quiet,  greeting  the  hunters  only  with 
a  low  growl.  Finding  that  there  was  a  bear  apiece  to  be 
disposed  of,  the  hunters  kept  close  to  the  wall,  and  out  of 
the  stream  of  light  from  the  entrance,  while  they  ad- 
vanced a  little  way,  cautiously,  towards  their  game,  which, 
however,  seemed  to  take  no  notice  of  them.  After  ma- 
neuvering a  few  minutes  to  get  nearer,  Meek  finally  struck 
the  large  bear  on  the  head  with  his  wiping-stick,  when  it 
immediately  moved  oiF  and  ran  out  of  the  cave.  As  it 
canK  out,  Doughty  shot,  but  only  wounded  it,  and  it 
came  rushing  back,  snorting,  and  running  around  in  a 
circle,  till  the  well  directed  shots  from  all  three  killed  it 
(111  the  spot.  Two  more  bears  now  remv^ined  to  be  dis- 
,'osed  of.  ■  ■     ' 

The  successful  shot  put  Hawkins  in  high  spirits.  He 
began  to  hallo  and  laugh,  dancing  around,  and  with  the 
others  striking  the  next  largest  bear  to  make  him  run  out, 
which  he  soon  did,  and  was  shot  by  Doughty.  By  this 
time  their  guns  were  reloaded,  the  men  growing  more 
and  more  elated,  and  Hawkins  declaring  they  were  "all 
Daniels  in  the  lions'  den,  and  no  mistake."  This,  and 
similar  expressions,  he  constantly  vociferated,  while  they 
drove  out  the  third  and  smallest  bear.  As  it  reached  the 
cave's  mouth,  three  simultaneous  sho*  ^  put  an  end  to  the 
last  one,  when  Hawkins'  excitement  knew  no  bounds. 
" Daniel  v/as  a  humbug,"  said  he.  "Daniel  in  the  lions' 
deu !  Of  course  it  was  winter,  and  the  lions  were  sucking 
their  paws!  Tvll  me  no  more  of  Daniel's  exploits.  We 
are  as  good  Daniels  as  he  ever  dared  to  be.  Hurrah  fci- 
these  Daniels ! "  With  these  expressions,  and  playing 
many  antics  by  way  of  rejoicing,  the  delighted  Hawkina 
tinally  danced  himself  out  of  his  *'  lion's  den,"  and  set  to 
work  with  the  others  to  prepare  for  a  return  to  camp. 

Sleds  were  soon  constructed  out  of  the  branches  of  the 


m 


m 


140 


THE   RETURN   TO   CAMP. 


mountain  willow,  and  on  these  light  vehicles  the  fortunate 
find  of  bear  meat  was  soon  conveyed  to  the  hungry  camp 
in  the  plain  below.  And  ever  after  this  liingular  exploit 
of  the  party,  Hawkins  continued  to  aver,  in  language 
more  strong  than  elegant,  that  the  Scripture  Daniel  was  a 
humbug  compared  to  himself,  and  Meek,  and  Claymore. 


•I  •'^..1! 


iH: 


-i<. 


H'';-i>^ 


\1    ■!         '■        lij 


»        II     •      .        / 


.'       ■>'  ;•' 


^^ii 


iiCiSf. 


■•>'-     '•    i.      I'.l: 


",  t   :i 


.).•) 


Iff. 


::i;   ,iiSjj 


V;i'.-V/      -.ii,i:'^u'^fm 


■iu:r"i,n    vm;.-;    S'v 


liW'Ohm 


'■  .'i"U.n 


..I'Mll     iHt'i!        ;llO!i      oil)      ''.("i!^i 


:!         jlJioi/Al     '.. 


\>n  jui'ti^ii-^u^'/- 


-}'\l 


■•■.'!!  ,!.b'.)l 


•1  v-!'.-lL.iMc:,l:iii.!;  bvixU  .al 


ij  c>;    .ij,.i>  m;  i.af  >^J'.M!rf  ■•'/i<.»^iAi;]lbifi>r;  :<:)ni.f  Aiub 


%>:nt.fon    ^.'if    7;'ji(:*    jtn;/ij.'>;i 


••((1*. 


;i    ?nt;    fl'    ir/)iw,fi 


i*(>a  -ncvw  fjiioj 


'«fK' 


HK\'rt.di:,ti  >  i. 


iWv 


;.?«>T):!r 


■'  ■  v tf >7f^ »■;; 


^'  -&i* 


liV?  :,jnr\  ■:['.>: 


h?r'i-:i'> -^V 


iUi 


ii.1^    ■)' 


,.    ..  Kh^:>Bl<l    K 


iio^iod  ■)c^j-!j  JuvjIjIv/ 


4rtu]: 


"r  (.. 


i 


A  VISIT   FROM   BLACKFEET. 


141 


CHAPTER    VIII. 


1833.  l.f  the  spring  the  camp  was  visited  by  a  party 
of  twenty  Blackfeet,  who  drove  off  most  of  the  horses ; 
and  among  the  stolen  ones,  Bridger's  favorite  race-horse, 
Grohean,  a  Camanche  steed  of  great  speed  and  endurance. 
To  retake  the  horses,  and  if  possible  punish  the  thieves, 
a  company  of  the  gamest  trappers,  thirty  in  number,  i:i- 
cluding  Meek,  and  Kit  Carson,  who  not  long  before  had 
joined  the  Rocky  Mountain  Com  ny,  was  dispatched  on 
their  trail.  They  had  not  traveled  long  before  they  came 
up  with  the  Blackfeet,  but  the  horses  weio  nowhere  to  be 
seen,  having  been  secreted,  after  the  manner  of  these  thieves, 
in  some  defile  of  the  mountains,  until  the  skirmish  was 
over  which  they  knew  well  enough  to  anticipate.  Accord- 
ingly when  the  trappers  came  up,  the  wily  savages  .ere 
prepared  for  them.  Their  numbers  were  inferior  to  that 
of  tlie  whites ;  accordingly  they  assumed  an  innocent  and 
peace-desiring  air,  while  their  head  man  advanced  wil 
inevitable  peace-pipe,  to  have  a  "talk."  But  as  their  talk 
was  a  tissue  of  lies,  the  trappers  soon  lost  patience,  and  a 
quarrel  (piickly  arose.  The  Indians  betook  themselves  to 
the  defences  which  were  selected  beforehand,  and  a  fight 
began,  which  without  giving  to  either  party  the  victory 
of  arms,  ended  in  the  killing  of  two  or  three  of  the  Black- 
feet,  and  the  wounding  very  severely  of  Kit  Carson. 
The  firing  ceased  with  nightfall;  and  when  morning  came, 
as  usual  the  Blackfeet  were  gone,  and  the  trappers  re- 
turned to  camp  without  their  horses. 


i   H 


I  fimiv  «"' ' 


142 


THE   GREEN   RIVER   RENDEZVOUS. 


The  lost  animals  wer'^  soon  replaced  by  purchase  from 
the  Nez  Perces,  and  the  company  divided  up  into  brigades, 
some  destined  for  the  country  east  of  the  mountains,  and 
others  for  the  south  aid  west.  In  this  year  Meek  rose  a 
grade  above  the  hired  trapper,  and  became  one  of  the 
order  denominated  skin  trappers.  These,  like  the  hired 
trappers,  depend  upon  the  company  to  furnish  them  an 
outfit ;  but  do  not  receive  regular  wages,  as  do  the  others. 
They  trap  for  themselves,  only  agreeing  to  sell  their  bea- 
ver to  the  company  which  furnishes  the  outfit,  and  to  no 
other.  In  this  capacity,  our  Joe,  and  a  few  associates, 
hunted  this  spring,  in  the  Snake  River  iind  Salt  Lake  coun- 
tries; returning  as  usual  to  the  annual  rendezvous,  which 
was  appointed  this  summer  to  meet  on  Green  River.  Here 
were  the  Rocky  Mountain  and  American  Companies;  the 
St.  Louis  Company,  under  Capt,  Wm.  Sublette  and  his 
friend  Campbell ;  the  usual  camp  of  Indian  allies  ;  and,  a 
%w  miles  distant,  that  of  Captain  Bonneville,  ^n  addition 
to  all  these,  was  a  small  company  belonging  to  Capt.  Stuart, 
an  Englishman  of  noble  family,  who  was  traveling  in  the 
far  west  only  to  gratify  his  own  love  of  wild  adventure, 
and  admiration  of  all  that  is  grand  and  magnificent  in  na- 
ture. With  him  was  an  artist  named  Miller,  and  several 
servants;  but  he  usually  traveled  in  company  with  one  or 
another  of  the  fur  companies;  thus  enjoying  their  protec- 
tion, and  at  the  same  time  gaining  a  knowledge  of  the 
habits  of  mountain  life. 

The  rendezvous,  at  this  time,  furnished  him  a  striking 
example  of  some  of  the  ways  of  mountain-men,  least  to 
their  honorable  fame;  and  we  fear  we  must  confess  that 
our  friend  Joe  Meek,  who  had  been  gathering  laurels?  as  a 
valiant  hunter  and  trapper  during  the  three  or  four  years 
of  his  apprenticeship,  was  also  becoming  fitted,  by  frequent 
practice,  to  graduate  in  some  of  the  vices  of  camp  life, 


it 


A   MAD   WOLF. 


143 


especially  the  one  of  conviviality  during  rendezvous.  Had 
he  not  given  his  permission,  we  should  not  perhaps  have 
said  what  he  says  of  himself,  that  he  was  at  such  times  of- 
ten very  "powerful  drunk." 

During  the  indulgence  of  these  excesses,  while  at  this 
rendezvous,  there  occurred  one  of  those  incidents  of  wil- 
derness life  which  make  the  blood  creep  with  horror. 
Twelve  of  the  men  were  bitten  by  a  mad  wolf,  which  hung 
about  the  camp  for  two  or  three  nights.  Twc  of  these 
were  seized  with  madness  in  camp,  sometime  afterwards, 
and  ran  off  into  the  mountains,  where  they  perished.  One 
was  attacked  by  the  paroxysm  while  on  a  hunt ;  when, 
throwing  himself  off  his  horse,  he  struggled  and  foamed 
at  the  mouth,  gnashing  his  teeth,  and  barking  like  a  wolf. 
Yet  he  retained  consciousness  enough  to  warn  away  his 
companions,  who  hastened  in  search  of  assistance ;  but 
when  they  returned  he  was  nowhere  to  be  found.  It  was 
thought  that  he  was  seen  a  day  or  two  afterwards,  but  no 
one  could  come  up  with  him,  and  of  course,  he  too,  per- 
ished. Another  died  on  his  journey  to  St.  Louis ;  and 
several  died  at  different  times  within  the  next  two  years. 

At  the  time,  however,  immediately  following  the  visit 
of  the  wolf  to  camp,  Captain  Stuart  was  admonishing 
Meek  on  the  folly  of  his  ways,  telling  him  that  the  wolf 
might  easily  have  bitten  him,-  he  was  so  drunk. 

"It  would  have  killed  him, — sure,  if  it  hadn't  cured ^ 
him !  "  said  Meek, — alluding  to  the  belief  that  alcohol  is  a^ 
remedy  for  the  poison  of  hydrophobia. 

AVhen  sobriety  returned,  and  work  was  once  more  to  be 
resumed.  Meek  returned  with  three  or  four  associates  to 
the  Salt  Lake  country,  to  trap  on  the  numerous  streams 
that  flow  down  from  the  mountains  to  the  east  of  Salt  Lake. 
He  had  not  been  long  in  this  region  when  he  fell  in  on 
Bear  River  with  a  company  of  BonneviUe's  men,  one  huii« 
10 


i 


144 


JO    WALKERS    CALIFORNIA    EXrEDITION. 


dred  and  eighteen  in  number,  under  Jo  Walker,  who  had 
been  sent  to  explore  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  and  the  adja- 
cent country ;  to  make  charts,  keep  a  journal,  and,  in  short, 
make  a  thorough  discovery  of  all  that  region.  Great  ex- 
pectations were  cherished  by  the  Captain  concerning  this 
favorite  expedition,  which  were,  however,  utterly  blighted, 
as  his  historian  has  recorded.  The  disappointment  and  loss 
which  Bonneville  suffered  from  it,  gave  a  tinge  of  preju- 
dice to  his  delineations  of  the  trapper's  character.  It  was 
true  that  they  did  not  explore  Salt  Lake ;  and  that  they 
made  a  long  and  expensive  journey,  collecting  but  few 
peltries.  It  is  true  also,  that  they  caroused  in  true  moun- 
tain style,  while  among  the  Californians :  but  that  the  ex- 
pedition was  unprofitable  was  due  chiefly  to  the  difficul- 
ties attending  the  exploration  of  a  new  country,  a  large 
portion  of  which  was  desert  and  mountain. 

But  let  us  not  anticipate.  When  Meek  and  his  compan- 
ions fell  in  with  Jo  Walker  and  his  company,  they  resolved 
to  accompany  the  expedition ;  for  it  was  "  a  feather  in  a 
man's  cap,"  and  made  his  services  doubly  valuable  to  have 
become  acquainted  with  a  new  country,  and  fitted  himself 
for  a  pilot. 

On  leaving  Bear  River,  where  the  hunters  took  the  pre- 
caution to  lay  in  a  store  of  dried  meat,  the  company  passed 
down  on  the  west  side  of  Salt  Lake,  and  found  themselves 
in  the  Salt  Lake  desert,  where  their  store,  insufficiently 
large,  soon  became  reduced  to  almost  nothing.  Here  was 
experienced  again  the  sufferings  to  which  Meek  had  once 
before  been  subjected  in  the  Digger  country,  ^vhich,  in 
fact,  bounded  this  desert  on  the  northwest.  "  There  was," 
says  Bonneville,  "  neither  tree,  nor  herbage,  nor  spring, 
nor  pool,  nor  running  stream ;  nothing  but  parched  wastes 
of  sand,  where  horse  and  rider  were  in  danger  of  perish- 
ing." Many  an  emigrant  has  since  confirmed  the  truth  of 
this  account. 


INSTINCT    OF   THE   MULE. 


145 


It  could  not  be  expected  that  men  would  continue  on 
in  such  a  country,  in  that  direction  which  offered  no  change 
for  the  better.  Discerning  at  last  a  snowy  range  to  the 
northwest,  they  traveled  in  that  direction ;  pinched  with 
famine,  and  with  tongues  swollen  out  of  their  mouths  with 
thirst.  They  came  at  last  to  a  small  stream,  into  which 
both  men  and  animals  plunged  to  quench  their  raging 


The  instinct  of  a  mule  on  these  desert  journeys  is  some- 
thing wonderful.  We  have  heard  it  related  by  others  be- 
sides the  monntain-men,  that  they  will  detect  the  neighbor- 
hood of  water  long  before  their  riders  have  discovered  a 
sign ;  and  setting  up  a  gallop,  when  before  they  could 
hardly  walk,  will  dash  into  the  water  up  to  their  necks, 
drinking  in  the  life-saving  moisture  through  every  pore  of 
the  skin,  while  '  j  prudently  refrain  from  swallowing 
much  of  it.  If  ;ie  of  a  company  has  been  off  on  a  hunt 
for  water,  and  on  finding  it  has  let  his  mule  drink,  when 
he  returns  to  camp,  the  other  animals  will  gather  about 
it,  and  snuff  its  breath,  and  even  its  body,  betraying 
the  liveliest  interest  and  envy.  It  i.  easy  to  imagme  that 
in  the  case  of  Jo  Walker's  company,  not  only  the  animals 
but  the  men  were  eager  to  steep  themselves  in  the  reviv- 
ing waters  of  the  first  stream  which  they  found  on  the 
border  of  this  weary  desert. 

It  proved  to  be  a  tributary  of  Mary's  or  Ogden's  River, 
along  which  the  company  pursued  their  way,  trapping  as 
they  went,  and  living  upon  the  flesh  of  the  beaver.  They 
had  now  entered  upon  the  same  country  inhabited  by 
Digger  Indians,  in  which  Milton  Sublette's  brigade  had  so 
nearly  perished  with  famine  the  previous  year.  It  was 
unexplored,  and  the  natives  were  as  curious  about  the 
movements  of  their  white  visitors,  as  Indians  always  are 
on  the  first  appearance  of  civilised  men. 


T^pim" 


146 


MASSACRE   OF    DIGGERS   AT    MARYS    RIVER. 


i,^-' 


They  hung  about  the  camps,  offering  no  ollences  by  day, 
but  contriving  to  do  a  great  deal  of  thieving  during  the 
night-time.  Each  day,  for  several  days,  theii*  numbers 
increased,  until  the  army  which  dogged  the  trappers  by 
day,  and  filched  from  them  at  night,  numbered  nearly  a 
thousand.  They  had  no  guns;  but  carried  clubs,  and 
some  bows  and  arrows.  The  trappers  at  length  became 
uneasy  at  this  accumulation  of  force,  even  though  they 
had  no  fire-arms,  for  was  it  not  this  very  style  of  people, 
armed  with  clubs,  that  attacked  Smith's  party  on  the 
Umpqua,  and  killed  all  but  four  ? 

"We  must  kill  a  lot  of  them,  boys,"  said  Jo  Walker. 
"It  will  never  do  to  let  that  crowd  get  into  camp."  Ac- 
cordingly, as  the  Indians  crowded  round  at  a  ford  of  Mary's 
River,  always  a  favorite  time  of  attack  with  the  savages, 
Walker  gave  the  cider  to  fire,  and  the  whole  company 
poured  a  volley  into  the  jostling  crowd.  The  effect  was 
terrible.  Seventy -five  Diggers  bit  the  dust;  while  the 
others,  seized  with  terror  and  horror  at  this  new  and  instan- 
taneous mode  of  death,  fled  howling  away,  the  trappers 
pursuing  them  until  satisfied  that  they  were  too  much 
frightened  to  return.  This  seemed  to  Captain  Bonneville, 
when  he  came  to  hear  of  it,  like  an  unnecessary  and  fero- 
cious act.  But  Bonneville  was  not  an  experienced  Inuian 
fighter.  His  views  of  their  character  were  much  governed 
by  his  knowledge  of  the  Flatheads  and  Nez  Perces ;  and 
also  by  the  immunity  from  harm  he  enjoyed  among  the 
Shoshonies  on  the  Snake  River,  where  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company  had  brought  them  into  subjection,  and  where 
even  two  men  might  travel  in  safety  at  the  time  of  his 
residence  in  that  country. 

Walker's  company  continued  on  down  to  the  main  or 
Humboldt  River,  trapping  as  they  went,  both  for  the  furs, 
and  for  something  to  eat  j  and  expecting  to  find  that  the 


I  f 


1 


CROSP'NG    THE    SIERRA    NEVADAS. 


147 


river  whose  course  they  were  following  through  these  bar- 
ren plains,  would  lead  them  to  some  more  important  river, 
or  to  some  large  lake  or  inland  sea.  This  was  a  country 
entirely  unknown,  even  to  the  adventurous  traders  and 
trappers  of  the  fur  companies,  who  avoided  it  because  it 
was  out  of  the  buffalo  range ;  and  because  the  borders  of 
it,  along  which  they  sometimes  skirted,  were  found  to  be 
wanting  i;i  water-courses  in  which  beaver  might  be  looked 
for.  Walker's  company  therefore,  now  determined  to 
prosecute  their  explorations  until  they  came  to  some  new 
and  profitable  beaver  grounds.  ...  > 

But  after  a  long  march  through  an  inhospitable  country 
they  came  at  last  to  where  the  Humboldt  sinks  itself  in  a 
great  swampy  lake,  in  the  midst  of  deserts  of  sage-brush. 
Here  was  the  end  of  their  great  expectations.  To  the 
west  of  them,  however,  and  not  far  of!"  rose  the  lofty  sum- 
mits of  the  Sierra  Nevada  range,  some  of  whose  peaks 
were  covered  with  eternal  snows.  Since  they  had  already 
made  an  unprofitable  business  of  their  expedition,  and 
failed  in  its  principal  aim,  that  of  exploring  Salt  Lake, 
they  resolved  upon  crossing  the  mountains  into  California, 
and  seeking  new  fields  of  adventure  on  the  western  side 
of  the  Nevada  mountains.        ^'i  .;«:    i-.?.;  i^   :.sX;i;      .. 

Accordingly,  although  it  was  already  late  in  the  autumn, 
the  party  pushed  on  toward  the  west,  until  they  came  to 
Pyramid  Lake,  another  of  those  swampy  lakes  which  are 
frequently  met  with  near  the  eastern  base  of  these  Sierras. 
Lito  this  flowed  a  stream  similar  to  the  Humboldt,  which 
came  from  the  south,  and,  they  believed,  had  its  rise  in 
the  mountains.  As  it  was  important  to  find  a  good  pass, 
they  took  their  course  along  this  stream,  which  they 
named  Trucker's  River,  and  continued  along  it  to  its 
head-waters  in  the  Sierras. 

And  now  began  the  arduous  labor  of  crossing  an  un- 


^J«,.(<'>W''<P"^F 


148 


DELIGHT    OF   THE   TRAPPEUB. 


<fXt. 


)/' 


known  range  of  lofty  mountains.  Mountaineers  as  they 
were,  they  found  it  a  difficult  undertaking,  and  one^ at- 
tended with  considerable  peril.  For  a  period  of  more 
than  three  weeks  they  were  struggling  with  these  dangers; 
hunting  paths  for  their  mules  and  horses,  traveling  around 
canyons  thousands  of  feet  deep;  sometimes  sinking  ia 
new  fallen  snow ;  always  hungry,  and  often  in  peril 
from  starvation.  Sometimes  they  scrambled  up  almost 
smooth  declivities  of  granite,  that  offered  no  foothold 
save  the  occasional  seams  in  the  rock;  at  others  they 
traveled  through  pine  forests  made  nearly  impassable  by 
snow ;  and  at  other  times  on  a  ridge  which  wind  and  sun 
made  bare  for  them.  All  around  rose  rocky  peaks  and 
pinnacles  fretted  by  ages  of  denudation  to  very  spears 
and  needles  of  a  bui'nt  looking,  red  colored  rock.  Below, 
were  spread  out  immense  fields,  or  rather  oceans,  of 
granite  that  seemed  once  to  have  been  a  molten  sea,  whose 
waves  were  suddenly  congealed.  From  the  fissures  be- 
tween these  billows  grew  stunted  pines,  which  had  found 
a  scanty  soil  far  down  in  the  crevices  of  the  rock  for  their 
hardy  roots.  Following  the  course  of  any  stream  flowing 
in  the  rijht  direction  for  their  purpose,  they  came  not  in- 
frequently to  some  small  fertile  valley,  set  in  amidst  the 
rocks  like  a  cup,  and  often  containing  in  its  depth  a  bright 
little  lake.  These  are  the  oases  in  the  mountain  deserts. 
But  the  lateness  of  the  season  made  it  necessary  to  avoid 
the  high  valleys  on  account  of  the  snow,  which  in  winter 
accumulates  to  a  depth  of  twenty  feet. 

Great  was  the  exultation  of  the  mountaineers  when 
they  emerged  from  the  toils  and  dangers,  safe  into  the 
bright  and  sunny  plains  of  California;  having  explored 
almost  the  identical  route  since  fixed  upon  for  the  Union 
Pacific  Railroad.  -    " 

They  proceeded  down  the  Sacramento  valley,  toward 


■   1 


ESCORTED    BY   SPANIs^lI    SOLDIERS   TO   MONTEREY.        149 


tliG  coast,  after  recruiting  tlicir  horses  on  the  ripe  wild  oats, 
and  the  freshly  springing  grass  which  the  December  rains 
harl  staried  into  life,  and  themselves  on  the  plentiful  game 
of  the  foot-hills.  Something  of  the  stimulus  of  the  Cali- 
foniian  climate  seemed  to  be  imparted  to  the  ever  buoy- 
ant blood  of  these  hardy  and  danger-despising  men. 
They  Avere  mad  with  delight  on  finding  themselves,  after 
crossing  the  stern  Sierras,  in  a  land  of  sunshine  and  plenty; 
a  beautiful  land  of  verdant  hills  and  tawny  plains;  of 
streams  winding  between  rows  of  alder  and  willow,  and 
valleys  dotted  with  picturesque  groves  of  the  evergreen 
oak.  Instead  of  the  wild  blasts  which  they  were  used  to 
encounter  in  December,  they  experienced  here  only  those 
dainty  and  wooing  airs  which  poets  have  ascribed  to  spring, 
but  which  seldom  come  even  with  the  last  May  days  in  an 
eastern  climate. 

In  the  San  Jose  valley  they  encountered  a  party  of  one 
hundred  soldiers,  which  the  Spanish  government  at  Mon- 
terey had  sent  out  to  take  a  party  of  Indians  accused  of 
stealing  cattle.  The  soldiers  were  native  Californians,  de- 
scendants of  the  mixed  blood  of  Spain  and  Mexico,  a  wild, 
jaunty  looking  set  of  fellows,  who  at  first  were  inclined 
to  take  Walker's  party  for  a  band  of  cattle  thieves,  and  to 
inarch  them  off  to  Monterey.  But  the  Rocky  Mountain 
trapper  was  not  likely  to  be  taken  prisoner  by  any  such 
brigade  as  the  dashing  cabelleroa  of  Monterey. '   -,  ;  ■     " 

After  astonishing  them  with  a  series  of  whoops  and 
yells,  and  trying  to  astonish  them  with  feats  of  horseman- 
ship, they  began  to  discover  that  when  it  came  to  the  lat- 
ter accomplishment,  even  mountain-men  could  learn  some- 
thing from  a  native  Californian.  In  this  latter  frame  of 
mind  they  consented  to  be  conducted  to  Monterey  as  pris- 
oners or  not,  just  as  the  Spanish  government  should  here- 
after be  pleased  to  decree ;  and  they  had  confidence  in 


m 

'■'i 


•M  I 


^••n.ir- 


150 


A   nOSPITAHLE    HECKPTION. 


themselves  that  they  shouhl  be  abl'e  to  bend  that  hiyh  and 
mighty  autliority  to  their  own  purposes  tliereaftcr. 

Nor  were  they  mistaken  in  their  calcuhitions.  Their 
fearless,  free  and  easy  style,  united  to  their  coni})lete  fur- 
nishing of  arms,  their  numbers,  and  their  superior  ability 
to  stand  up  under  the  demoralizing  efl'cct  of  the  favorto 
aguadlente^  soon  so  far  influenced  the  soldiery  at  least,  tliat 
the  trappers  were  allowed  perfect  freedcnn  under  the  very 
eyes  of  the  jealous  Spanish  government,  and  were  treated 
with  all  hospitality. 

The  month  which  the  trappers  spent  at  Monterey  was 
their  "red  letter  day"  for  along  time  after.  The  habits 
of  the  Californians  accorded  with  their  own,  with  just  d. 
ference  enough  to  furnish  them  with  novelties  and  exci^i 
ments  such  as  gave  a  zest  to  their  intci'course.  The 
Californian,  and  the  mountain-men,  were  alike  centaurs. 
Horses  were  their  necessity,  and  their  deliglit;  and  the 
plains  swarmed  with  them,  as  also  with  wild  cattle,  de- 
scendants of  those  imported  by  the  Jesuit  Fathers  in  the 
early  days  of  the  Missions.  These  horses  and  cattle  were 
placed  at  the  will  and  pleasure  of  the  trappers.  They 
feasted  on  one,  and  bestrode  the  other  as  it  suited  them, 
They  attended  bull-fights,  ran  races,  threw  the  lasso,  and 
played  moute,  with  a  relish  that  delighted  the  inhabitants 
of  Monterey. 

The  partial  civilization  of  the  Californians  accorded 
with  every  feeling  to  which  the  mountain-men  could  be 
brought  to  confess.  To  them  the  refinements  of  cities 
would  have  been  oppressive.  The  adobe  houses  of  Mon- 
terey were  not  so  restraining  in  their  elegance  as  to  trou- 
ble the  sensations  of  men  used  to  the  heavens  for  a  root 
in  summer,  and  a  skin  lodge  for  shelter  in  winter.  Some 
fruits  and  vegetables,  articles  not  tasted  for  years,  they 
obtained  at  the  missions,  where  the  priests  received  them 


''i 

fl 

T 

!     .  . 

lifr 

4  .' 

1 
i 

i^ 

; 

Rjfj 

■^;.iii 


THE    NATIVE   CALIFORNIANS. 


151 


courteously  and  hospitably,  as  they  had  done  Jedediah 
Smith  and  his  company,  live  years  before,  when  on  their 
lon<'  and  disastrous  journey  they  found  themselves  almost 
destitute  of  the  necessaries  of  life,  upon  their  arrival  in 
Cahfornia.  There  was  something  too,  in  the  dress  cf  the 
people,  both  men  and  women,  which  agreed  with,  while 
differing  from,  the  dress  of  the  mountaineers  -xnd  their 
now  absent  Indian  dulcineas. 

The  men  wore  garments  of  many  colors,  consisting  of 
blue  velveteen  breeches  and  jacket,  the  jac/Ket  having  a 
scarlet  collar  and  cuff?,  and  the  breeches  being  open  at 
the  knee  to  display  the  stocking  of  white.  Beneath  these 
were  displayed  high  buskins  made  of  deer  skin,  fringed 
down  the  outside  of  the  ankle,  and  laced  with  a  cord  and 
tassels.  On  the  head  was  Avorn  a  broad  brimmed  sombrero^ 
and  over  the  shoulders  the  jaunty  Mexican  sarajje.  When 
tliey  rode,  the  Californirus  wore  enormous  spurs,  fastened 
on  by  jingling  chains.  'xLeir  saddles  were  so  shaped  that 
it  was  difficult  to  dislodge  the  rider,  being  high  before  and 
behind ;  and  the  indispensable  lasso  hung  coiled  from  the 
pommel.  Their  stirrups  were  of  wood,  broad  on  the  bot- 
tom, with  a  guard  of  leather  that  protected  the  fancy  bus- 
kin of  the  horseman  from  injury.  Thus  accoutred,  and 
mounted  on  a  wild  horse,  the  Californian  was  a  suitable 
comrade,  in  appearance,  at  least,  for  the  buckskin  clad  trap- 
per, with  his  high  beaver-skin  cap,  his  gay  scarf,  and  moc- 
casins, and  profusion  of  arms. 

The  dress  of  the  women  was  a  gown  of  gaudy  calico 
or  silk,  and  a  bright  colored  shawl,  which  served  for  man- 
tlla  and  bonnet  together.  They  were  well  formed,  with 
languishing  eyes  and  soft  voices ;  and  doibtless  appeared 
charming  in  the  eyes  of  our  band  of  trappers,  with  whom 
they  associated  freely  at  fandangoes,  buil-iights,  or  bear- 
baitings.     In  such  company,  what  wonder  that  Bonneville's 


-■xm 


|! 


^(JW»I^^ 


152 


THE   MQQUIS   yiLL.'..GE—INFAMOX[S   AFFAIR. 


men  lingered  for  a  whole  month !  What  wonder  that  the 
Califorria  expedition  was  a  favorite  theme  by  camp-fires, 
for  along  time  subsequent?  ?i-  fui 

1834.  In  February  the  trappers  bethought  themselves 
of  returning  to  the  mountains.  The  route  fixed  upon  was 
one  which  should  take  them  through  Southern  California, 
and  New  Mexico,  along  the  course  of  all  the  principal 
rivers.  Crossing  the  coast  mountains,  into  the  valley  of 
the  San  Joaquin,  they  followed  its  windings  until  they 
came  to  its  rise  in  the  Lulare  Lake.  Thence  turning  in  a 
southeasterly  course,  they  came  to  the  Colorado,  at  the 
Mohave  villages,  where  they  traded  with  the  natives, 
whom  they  found  friendly.  Keeping  on  down  the  Colo- 
rado, to  the  mouth  of  the  Gila,  they  turned  back  from 
that  river,  and  ascended  the  Colorado  once  more,  to  Wil- 
liams' Pork,  and  up  the  latter  stream  to  some  distance, 
when  they  fell  in  with  a  company  of  sixty  men  under 
Frapp  and  Jervais,  two  of  the  partners  in  the  Rocky 
Mountain  Company.  The  meeting  was  joyful  on  all 
sides ;  but  particularly  so  between  Meek  and  some  of  his 
old  comrades,  with  whom  he  had  fought  Indians  and  griz- 
zly bears,  or  set  beaver  traps  on  some  lonely  stream  in 
the  Blackfoot  country.  A  lively  exchange  of  quostious 
and  answers  took  place,  while  gaiety  and  good  feeling 
reigned. 

Frapp  had  been  out  quite  as  long  as  the  Monterey  party. 
It  was  seldom  that  the  brigade  which  traversed  the  south- 
ern country,  on  the  Colorado,  and  its  large  tributaries, 
returned  to  winter  quarters;  for  in  the  region  where  they 
trapped  winter  was  unknown,  and  the  journey  to  the  north- 
ern country  a  long  and  hazardous  one.  But  the  reunited 
trappers  had  each  their  own  experiences  to  relate. 

The  two  companies  united  made  a  party  nearly  two  hun- 
dred strong.     Keeping  with  Frapp,  they  crossed  over  from 


THE   RETURN   MARCH. 


•153 


Williams'  Fork  to  the  Colorado  Chiquito  river,  at  the  Mo- 
quis  village,  where  some  of  the  men  disgraced  themselves 
far  more  than  did  Jo  Walker's  party  at  the  crossing  of 
Mary's  River.  For  the  Moquis  were  a  half-civilized  nation, 
^v'lio  had  houses  and  gardens,  and  conducted  themselves 
kindly,  or  at  the  worst  peaceably,  toward  properly  behaved 
strangers.  These  trappers,  instead  of  approaching  them 
with  offers  of  purchase,  lawlessly  entered  their  gardens, 
rilling  them  of  whatever  fruit  or  melons  were  ripe,  and 
not  hesitating  to  destroy  that  which  v/tus  not  ripe.  To  this, 
as  might  be  expected,  the  Moquises  objected ;  and  were 
shot  down  for  so  doing.  In  this  truly  infamous  affair  fif- 
teen or  twenty  of  them  were  killed. 

"I  didn't  belong  to  that  crowd,"  says  Joe  Meek,  "  I  sat 
on  the  fence  and  saw  it,  though.     It  was  a  shameful  thing." 

From  the  Moquis  village,  the  joint  companies  crossed 
the  country  in  a  northeasterly  direction,  crossing  several 
branches  of  the  Colorado  at  their  head-waters,  which 
course  finally  brought  them  to  the  head-waters  of  the  Rio 
Grande.  The  journey  from  the  month  of  the  Gila,  though 
long,  extended  over  a  country  comparatively  safe.  Either 
farther  to  the  south  or  east,  the  caravan  would  have  been 
in  danger  of  a  raid  from  the  most  dangerous  tribes  on  the 
continent.       .;  r.    v   -.,.->?  .■-.^.wv.   .    .       .:.".'3     .      -      ..  .» 


■  ■  ,  ■-) 


ji 


'■  ''.       ■■■'  j.j>.;j,.-..i-v-;>     ■:>:j^>  ;ji''i' ■■■      -   •  • '' 

,;,  :  -i.i  "i, :'■-.■}■■: r't]:,rr^  "r.^r.  ri'^/i;  n^ic  :::■■':.■  '"  "a.:pv;' 


^PfS^"^' 

, 

M 

i  J'  i 

1%^ 

154 


IN  THE  CAMANCHE  COUNTRY. 


CHAPTER    IX. 


1834,  But  Joe  Meek  was  not  destined  to  return  to  the 
Rocky  Mountains  without  having  had  an  Indian  fight.  If 
adventures  did  not  come  in  his  way  he  was  the  man  to  put 
himself  in  the  way  of  adventures. 

While  the  camp  was  on  its  way  from  the  neighborhood 
of  Grande  River  to  the  New  Park,  Meek,  Kit  Carson, 
and  Mitchell,  with  three  Delaware  Indians,  named  Tom 
Hill,  Manhead,  and  Jonas,  went  on  a  hunt  across  to  the 
east  of  Grande  River,  in  the  country  lying  between  the 
Arkansas  and  Cimarron,  where  numerous  small  branches 
of  these  rivers  head  together,  or  within  a  small  extent  of 
country. 

They  were  about  one  hundred-and  fifty  miles  from  camp, 
and  travehng  across  the  open  plain  between  the  streams, 
one  beautiful  May  morning,  when  about  five  miles  otF  they 
descried  a  large  band  of  Indians  mounted,  and  galloping 
toward  them.  As  they  were  in  the  Camanche  country, 
they  knew  what  to  expect  if  they  allowed  themselves 
to  be  taken  prisoners.  They  gave  but  a  moment  to  the 
observation  of  their  foes,  but  that  one  moment  revealed 
a  spirited  scene.  Fully  two  hundred  Camanches,  their 
warriors  in  front,  large  and  well  formed  men,  mounted  on 
fleet  and  powerful  horses,  armed  with  spears  and  battle 
axes,  racing  like  the  wind  over  the  prairie,  their  feather 
head-dresses  bending  to  the  breeze,  that  swept  past  them 
in  the  race  with  double  force ;  all  distinctly  seen  in  the 


1     \ 

1 

'1 

I                  1 
t                  , 
'■                  1 

.\ 

[r'^iW^fTr 


clear  a 

fear  mi 

The 

was  ei 

WilS  US( 

take  th 
covert 
niountf 
change 
our  mil 

That 
wlio  nc 
be  thoi 
this  pi 
one.  [ 
mules, 
their  tJ- 
bridles 
Then  : 
knives, 
for  eac 

Inle 
them : 
ing,  aiK 
carried 
the  rati 
the  litt 
CaniaiK 
upon  tl 
for  thai 

This 
were  c 
wroug] 
more  tl 


THE  MULE  FORT — A  CAMANCHE  CHARGE. 


155 


clear  air  of  the  prairie,  and  giving  the  beholder  a  thrill  of 
fear  mingled  with  admiration. 

The  first  moment  given  to  this  spectacle,  the  second  one 
was  employed  to  devise  some  means  of  escape.  To  run 
was  useless.  The  swift  Camanche  steeds  would  soon  over- 
take them ;  and  then  their  horrible  doom  was  fixed.  No 
covert  was  at  hand,  neither  thicket  nor  ravine,  as  in  the 
mountains  there  might  have  been.  Carson  and  Meek  ex- 
changed two  or  three  sentences.  At  last,  "  we  must  kill 
our  mules !  "  said  they. 

That  seems  a  strange  devise  to  the  uninitiated  reader, 
who  no  doubt  believes  that  in  such  a  case  their  mules  must 
be  their  salvation.  And  so  they  were  intended  to  be.  In 
this  plight  a  dead  mule  was  far  more  useful  than  a  live 
one.  To  the  ground  sprang  every  man ;  and  placing  their 
nuiles,  seven  in  number,  in  a  ring,  they  in  an  instant  cut 
their  throats  with  their  hunting  knives,  and  held  on  to  the 
bridles  until  each  animal  fell  dead  in  its  appointed  place. 
Then  hastily  scooping  up  what  earth  they  could  with 
knives,  they  made  themselves  a  fort — a  hole  to  stand  in 
for  each  man,  and  a  dead  mule  for  a  breastwork. 

In  less  than  half  an  hour  the  Camanches  charged  on 
them;  the  medicine-man  in  advance  shouting,  gesticulat- 
ing, and  making  a  desperate  clatter  with  a  rattle  which  he 
carried  and  shook  violently.  The  yelling,  the  whooping, 
the  rattling,  the  force  of  the  charge  were  appalling.  But 
the  little  garrison  in  the  mule  fort  did  not  waver.  The 
Camanche  horses  did.  They  could  not  be  made  to  charge 
upon  the  bloody  carcasses  of  the  mules,  nor  near  enough 
for  their  riders  to  throw  a  spear  into  the  fort. 

This  was  what  the  trappers  had  relied  upon.  They 
were  cool  and  determined,  while  terribly  excited  and 
wrought  up  by  their  vsituation.  It  was  agreed  that  no 
more  than  three  should  fire  at  a  time,  the  other  three  re- 


■I 


•ym 


156 


REPEATED    ATTACKS — THE    SQUAWS  '  WEAPON. 


serving  their  fire  while  the  empty  guns  could  be  reloaded 
They  were  to  pick  their  men,  and  kill  one  at  every  shot, 

They  acted  up  to  their  regulations.  At  the  charge  the 
Camanche  horses  recoiled  and  could  not  be  urged  upon 
the  fort  of  slaughtered  mules.  The  three  whites  fired  first, 
and  the  medicine-man  and  two  other  Camanches  fell, 
When  a  medicine-man  is  killed,  the  others  retire  to  hold  a 
council  and  appoint  another,  for  without  their  "medicine" 
they  could  not  expect  success  in  battle.  This  was  time 
gained.  The  warriors  retired,  while  their  women  came 
up  and  carried  ofi'  the  dead. 

After  devoting  a  little  time  to  bewailing  the  departed, 
another  chief  was  appointed  to  the  head  place,  and  another 
furious  charge  was  made  with  the  same  results  as  before. 
Three  more  warriors  bit  the  dust;  while  the  spears  of  their 
brethren,  attached  to  long  hair  ropes  by  which  they  could 
be  withdrawn,  fell  short  of  reaching  the  men  in  the  fort. 
Again  and  again  the  Camanches  made  a  fruitless  charge, 
losing,  as  often  as  they  repeated  it,  three  warriors,  either 
dead  or  wounded.  Three  times  that  day  the  head  chief 
or  medicine-man  was  killed;  and  when  that  happened, 
the  heroes  in  the  fort  got  a  little  time  to  breathe.  While 
the  warriors  held  a  council,  the  women  took  care  of  the 
wounded  and  slain. 

As  the  women  approached  the  fort  to  carry  off  the  fallen 
warriors,  they  mocked  and  reviled  the  little  band  of  trap- 
pers, calling  them  "women,"  for  fighting  in  a  fort,  and 
resorting  to  the  usual  Indian  ridicule  and  gasconade. 
Occasionally,  also,  a  warrior  raced  at  full  speed  past  the 
fort  apparently  to  take  observations.  Thus  the  battle  con- 
tinued through  the  entire  day. 

It  was  terrible  work  for  the  trappers.  The  burning  sun 
of  the  plains  shone  on  them,  scorching  them  to  faintness. 
Their  faces  were  begrimed  with  powder  and  dust ;  their 


THE    ESCAPE   BY    NIGIIT THE    SOUTH    PARK. 


157 


throats  parched,  and  tongues  swollen  with  thirst,  and  their 
whole  frames  aching  from  their  cramped  positions,  as  well 
the  excitement  and  fatigue  oi"  the  battle.     But  they 


as 


dared  not  relax  their  vigilance  for  a  moment.  They  were 
fighting  for  their  lives,  and  they  meant  to  win. 

At  length  the  sun  set  on  that  bloody  and  wearisome 
day.  Forty-two  Camanches  were  killed,  and  several  more 
wounded,  for  the  charge  had  been  repeated  fifteen  or 
twenty  times.  The  Indians  drew  o£f  at  nightfall  to  mourn 
over  their  dead,  and  hold  a  council.  Probably  they  had 
lost  faith  in  their  medicines,  or  believed  tliat  the  trappers 
possessed  one  far  greater  than  any  of  theirs.  Under  the 
friendly  covc^  of  the  night,  the  six  heroes  who  had  fought 
successfully  more  than  a  hundred  Camanches,  took  each 
his  blanket  and  his  gun,  and  bidding  a  brief  adieu  to  dead 
mules  and  beaver  packs,  set  out  to  return  to  camD.         • 

When  a  mountain-man  had  a  journey  to  perform  on  foot,' 
to  travel  express,  or  to  escape  from  an  enemy,  he  fell  into 
Avhat  is  called  a  dog  trot,  and  ran  in  that  manner,  some- 
times, all  day.  On  the  present  occasion,  the  six,  escaping 
for  life,  ran  all  night,  and  found  no  water  for  seventy-five 
mile  .  When  they  did  at  last  come  to  a  clear  running 
stream,  their  thankfulness  was  equal  to  their  necessity, 
"for,"  says  Meek,  "thirst  is  the  greatest  suffering  I  ever 
experienced.     It  is  far  worse  than  hunger  or  pain." 

Having  rested  and  refreshed  themselves  at  the  stream, 
they  kept  on  without  much  delay  until  they  reached  camp 
in  that  beautiful  valley  of  the  Eocky  Mountains  called  the 
New,  or  the  South  Park.      ..    .  ^  ..  ^  >   s>^:  --^^.-k-;,,,  ,.  • 

While  they  remained  in  the  South  Park,  Mr.  Guthrie, 
one  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  Company's  traders,  was  killed 
by  lightning.  A  number  of  persons  were  collected  in  the 
lodge  of  the  Booshway,  Frapp,  to  avoid  the  rising  tempest, 
when  Guthrie,  who  was  leaning  against  the  lodge  pole, 


I  n 


rm^ppaatammm 


158      DEATH    OF    GUTIIHIE. — MEETING    WITH    BONNEVILLE. 

was  struck  by  a  flash  of  the  electric  current,  and  fell  dead 
instantly.  Frapp  rushed  out  of  the  lodge,  partly  bewil- 
dered himself  by  the  shock,  and  under  the  impression  that 
(luthrie  had  been  shot.  Frapp  was  a  German,  and  spoice 
English  somcAvhat  imperfectly.     In  the  excitement  of  the 

moment    he    shouted    out,    "  Py  ,    who   did  shoot 

Guttery !  " 

"    —  a' ,  T  expect:  He's  a  firing  into  camp;" 

drawled  out  Hawkins,  whose  ready  wit  was  very  disregard- 
ful  of  sacred  names  and  subjects. 

The  mountaineers  acre  familiar  with  the  most  awful 
aspects  of  nature ;  and  if  their  familiarity  had  not  bred 
contempt,  it  had  at  least  hardened  them  to  those  solemn 
impressions  which  other  men  would  have  felt  under  theu" 
influence. 

From  New  Park,  Meek  traveled  north  with  the  main 
camp,  passing  first  to  the  Old  Park ;  thence  to  the  Little 
Snake,  a  branch  of  Bear  River;  thence  to  Pilot  Butte; 
and  finally  to  Green  River  to  rendezvous ;  having  traveled 
in  the  past  year  about  three  thousand  miles,  on  horseback, 
through  new  and  often  dangerous  countries.  It  is  easy  to 
believe  that  the  Monterey  expedition  was  the  popular 
theme  in  camp  during  rendezvous.  It  had  been  difficult 
to  get  volunteers  for  Bonneville's  Salt  Lake  Exploration: 
but  such  was  the  wild  adventure  to  which  it  led,  that  vol- 
unteering for  a  trip  to  Monterey  would  have  been  exceed- 
ingly popular  immediately  thereafter.  ' 

On  Bear  River,  Bonneville's  men  fell  in  with  their  com- 
mander, Captain  Bonneville,  whose  disappointment  and 
indignation  at  the  failure  of  his  plans  was  exceedingly 
great.  In  this  indignation  there  was  considerable  justice; 
yet  much  of  his  disappointment  was  owing  to  causes  which 
a  more  experienced  trader  would  have  avoided.  The  only 
conclusion  which  can  be  arrived  at  by  an  impartial  ob- 


RUINOUS  COMPETITION. 


159 


server  of  the  events  of  1832-35,  is,  that  none  but  certain 
men  of  long  experience  and  liberal  means,  could  siicecetl 
ill  the  business  of  the  fur-trade.  There  were  too  many 
chances  of  loss;  too  many  wild  elements  to  be  mingled 
ill  amity ;  and  too  powerful  opposition  from  the  old  estab- 
lished compa^iies.  Captain  Bonneville's  experience  was 
110  diflcrent  from  Mr.  Wyeth's.  In  both  cases  there  was 
iimch  cfTort,  outlay,  and  loss.  Nor  was  their  failure  owing 
to  any  action  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  different 
from,  or  more  tyrannical,  than  the  action  of  the  American 
companies,  as  has  frequently  been  represented.  It  was 
the  American  companies  in  the  Rocky  Mountains  that 
drove  both  Bonneville  and  Wyeth  out  of  th-  field.  Their 
inexperience  could  not  cope  with  the  thorough  knowledge 
of  the  business,  and  the  country,  which  their  older  rivals 
possessed.  Raw  recruits  were  no  match,  in  trapping  or 
fighting,  for  old  mountaineers:  and  those  veterans  who 
had  served  long  under  certain  leaders  could  not  be  in- 
veigled from  their  service  except  upon  the  most  extrava- 
gai;t  otFers;  and  these  extravagant  wages,  which  if  one 
paid,  the  other  must,  would  not  allow  a  profit  to  either  of 
the  rivals.  *  . 

"How  much  does  your  company  pay  you?"  asked  Bon- 
neville of  Meek,  to  whom  he  was  complaining  of  the  con- 
duct of  his  men  on  the  Monterey  expedition. 

"Fifteen  hundred  dollars,"  answered  Meek. 

'Yes:  and  /will  give  it  to  you,"  said  Bonneville  with 
bitterness. 

It  was  quite  true.  Such  was  the  competition  aroused 
by  the  Captain's  ^efforts  to  secure  good  men  and  pilot.s, 
that  rather  than  lose  them  to  a  rival  company,  the  Rocky 
Mountain  Company  paid  a  few  of  their  best  men  the  wa- 
ges above  named. 

■     11  ••    "  '    '  ■•■■■■■■"    ■-■•    -■■^■' 


IGO 


AUVENTUHE8    IN    THE    fUOW    (."OUNTHY. 


CHAPTER    X. 

1834.  The  gossip  at  rendezvous  wiis  this  year  of  an 
unusually  exciting  character.  Of  the  brigad(3H  which  left 
for  different  parts  of  the  country  the  previous  suminor, 
the  Monterey  travelers  were  not  the  only  ones  who  had 
met  with  adventures.  Fitzpatrick,  who  had  led  a  party 
into  the  Crow  country  that  autumn,  had  met  with  a  char 
acteristic  reception  from  that  nation  of  cunning  vaga- 
bonds. 

Being  with  his  party  on  Lougue  River,  in  the  early  part 
of  September,  he  discovered  that  he  was  being  dogged 
by  a  considerable  band  of  Crows,  and  endeavored  to  elude 
their  spying ;  but  all  to  no  purpose.  The  Crow  chief 
kept  in  his  neighborhood,  and  finally  expressed  a  desire 
to  bring  his  camp  alongside  that  of  Fitzpatrick,  pretend- 
ing to  the  most  friendly  and  honorable  sentiments  toward 
his  white  neighbors.  But  not  feeling  any  confidence  in 
Crow  friendship,  Fitzpatrick  declined,  and  moved  camp  a 
few  miles  away.  Not,  however,  wishing  to  offend  the  dig- 
nity of  the  apparently  friendly  chief,  he  took  a  small  es- 
cort, and  went  to  pay  a  visit  to  his  Crow  neighbors,  that 
they  might  see  that  he  was  not  afraid  to  trust  them. 
Alas,  vain  subterfuge !  ;. 

While  he  was  exchanging  civilities  with  the  Crow  chief 
a  party  of  the  young  braves  stole  out  of  camp,  and  taking 
advantage  of  the  leader's  absence,  made  an  attack  on  his 
camp,  so  sudden  and  successful  that  not  a  horse,  nor  any. 
thing  else  which  they  could   make  booty  of  was  left 


UONOU   AMONG    TIIIKVES. 


IGl 


I'lveri  Captain  Stuart,  who  was  traveling  with  Fitzpatrick, 
and  will)  was  an  active  officer,  was  powerless  to  resist  the 
iittiick,  and  had  to  consent  to  see  the  camp  rifled  of  every- 
thing valuable. 

in  the  meantime  Fitzpatrick,  after  concluding  his  visit 
ill  the  most  amicable  manner,  was  returning  to  camp,  when 
111!  was  met  by  the  exultant  braves,  who  added  insult  to 
injiny  by  robbing  him  of  his  horse,  gun,  and  nearly  all 
his  clothes,  leaving  him  to  return  to  his  party  in  a  de- 
plorable condition,  to  the  great  amusement  of  the  trap- 
pers, and  his  own  chagrin. 

However,  the  next  day  a  talk  was  held  with  the  head 
cliiof  of  the  Crows,  to  whom  Fitzpatrick  represented  the 
infuniy  of  such  treacherous  conduct  in  a  very  strong  light. 
Ill  answer  to  this  reproof,  the  chief  disowned  all  knowl- 
edge of  the  affair;  saying  that  he  could  not  always  con- 
trol the  conduct  of  the  young  men,  who  would  be  a  little 
wihl  now  and  then,  in  spite  of  the  best  Crow  precepts : 
l)iit  that  he  would  do  what  he  could  to  have  the  property 
restored.  Accordingly,  after  more  talk,  and  much  elo- 
quence on  the  part  of  Fitzpatrick,  the  chief  part  of  the 
plunder  was  returned  to  him,  including  the  horses  and 
rifles  of  the  men,  together  with  a  little  ammunition,  and  a 
few  beaver  traps. 

Fitzpatrick  understood  the  meaning  of  this  apparent 
fairness,  and  hastened  to  get  out  of  the  Crow  country  be- 
fore another  raid  by  the  mischievous  young  l)raves,  at  a 
time  when  their  chief  was  not  "honor  bound,"  should  de- 
prive him  of  the  recovered  property.  That  his  conjecture 
was  well  founded,  was  proven  by  the  numerous  petty 
thefts  which  were  committed,  and  by  the  loss  of  several 
horses  and  mules,  before  he  could  remove  them  beyond 
the  limits  of  the  Crow  territory. 

While  the  trappers  exchanged  accounts  of  their  indi- 


Jl.^.*l.lii..!UJllii 


162 


l.Nl'Allt    JIIEATMKNT    OF    WVETH. 


vicinal  experiences,  the  leaders  liad  more  important  mat- 
ters to  gossip  ovei'.  The  ri\'ahy  between  tlie  several  fur 
companies  was  now  at  its  climax.  Tiirough.  Hie  enerj^^y 
and  ability  of  Captain  Sublette  of  the  St.  Louis  Company, 
and  the  experience  and  industry  of  the  liocky  Mountain 
Company,  which  Captain  Sublette  still  continued  to  con- 
trol iri  a  measure,  the  power  still  remained  with  them 
The  American  (.V)nipany  had  never  been  able  to  cope  with 
them  in  the  Uocky  Mountains ;  and  the  St.  Louis  Com- 
pany were  already  invading  their  territory  on  the  Missouri 
Hiver,  by  carrying  goods  up  that  river  in  boats,  to  trade 
with  the  Indians  under  the  very  walls  of  the  American 
('ompany's  forts. 

In  August  of  the  previous  year,  when  Mr.  Nathaniel 
Wyeth  had  started  on  his  return  to  the  states,  he  was  ac- 
companied as  far  as  the  mouth  of  the  Yellowstone  by 
Milton  Sublette ;  and  had  engaged  with  tliat  gentleman 
to  furnish  him  with  goods  the  following  year,  as  he  be 
lieved  he  could  do,  cheaper  than  the  St.  Louis  Compai'y, 
who  purchased  their  goods  in  St.  Louis  at  a  great  advance 
on  Boston  prices.  But  Milton  Sublette  fell  in  with  h's 
brother  the  Captain,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Yellowstone, 
with  a  keel-boat  loaded  with  merchandise ;  and  while 
Wyeth  pursued  his  way  eastward  to  purchase  the  Indian 
goods  which  were  intended  to  supply  the  wants  of  the 
fur  traders  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  at  a  profit  to  him,  and 
an  advantage  to  them,  the  Captain  was  persuading  his 
brother  n  t  to  encourage  any  interlopers  in  the  Indian 
trade ;  but  to  continue  to  buy  goods  fi'om  himself,  as  for- 
merly. So  potent  were  his  arguments,  that  Milton  yielded 
to  tliem,  in  spite  of  his  engagement  with  Wyeth,  Thus 
during  the  autumn  of  1833,  while  Bonneville  was  being 
wronged  ai'.d  robbed,  as  he  afterwards  became  convinced, 
by  his  men  under  Walker,  and  n  n ticipated  in  the  hunting- 


BONNEVILLE  S    VISIT    TO    WALLAH-WALLAH. 


1G3 


(rronnd  selected  for  himself,  in  the  Crow  country,  by  Fitz- 
patrick,  as  he  had  previously  been  in  the  Snake  country 
by  Milton  Sublette,  Wyetb  was  proceeding  to  Boston  in 
pood  faith,  to  execute  what  proved  to  be  a  fool's  errand. 
Houncville  also  had  gone  on  another,  when  after  the  trap- 
ping season  was  over  he  left  his  camp  to  winter  on  the 
SiKikc  River,  and  started  with  a  small  escort  to  visit  the 
Columbia,  and  select  a  spot  for  a  trading-post  on  the  lower 
jjortioii  of  that  river.  On  arriving  at  Wallah- Wallah,  af- 
ter a  hard  journey  over  the  Blue  Mountains  in  the  winter, 
the  agent  at  that  post  had  refused  to  supply  him  v;ith  pro- 
visions to  prosecute  his  journey,  and  given  him  to  under- 
stand that  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  might  be  polite 
and  hospitable  to  Captain  Bonneville  as  the  gentleman, 
but  that  it  was  against  their  regulations  to  encourage  the 
advent  of  other  traders  who  would  interfere  with  their 
business,  and  unsettle  the  minds  of  the  Indians  in   that 


region. 


This  reply  so  annoyed  the  Captain,  that  he  refused  the 
well  meant  advice  of  Mr.  Pambi'un  that  he  should  not  un- 
dertake to  recross  the  Blue  Mouiitair-  in  March  snows,  but 
travel  under  the  escort  of  Mr.  F.i  'ctte,  one  of  the  Hud- 
son's  Bay  Company's  leaders,  who  was  about  starting  foi' 
the  Nez  Perce  country  by  a  safer  if  more  circuitous  route. 
He  therefore  set  out  to  return  by  the  route  he  came, 
aiid  only  arrived  at  camp  in  May,  lS'.ic,  after  many  dan- 
gers and  difficulties.  From  the  Portne«^'  Jliver,  he  then 
proceeded  with  his  camp  to  explore  the  Little  Snake 
Rivor,  and  Snake  Lake ;  and  it  was  while  so  doing  that 
he  fell  in  with  his  men  just  returned  from  Monterey. 

Such  was  the  relative  position  of  the  several  fur  com- 
panies in  the  Rocky  Mountains  in  1834  ;  and  it  w^as  of 
such  matters  that  the  leaders  talked  in  the  lodge  of  the 
Boosliways,  at  rendezvous.     In  the  nifantime  Wyeth  ar- 


fi  I 


>^i  Y/        *","•• 


.164 


wvKTii  ri  tjii;kat — fout  hall. 


rived  in  the  mountains  with  his  goods,  <as  he  had  con- 
tracted with  Milton  Sublette  in  the  previous  year.  But 
on  his  heels  came  Captain  Sublette,  also  with  goods,  and 
the  Ptocky  Mountain  Company  violated  their  contract  with 
Wyeth,  and  purchased  of  their  old  leader. 

Thus  was  Wyeth  left,  with  his  goods  on  his  hands,  in  a 
country  where  it  was  impossible  to  sell  them,  and  useless 
to  undertake  an  opposition  to  the  already  established  fur- 
traders  and  trappers.  His  indignation  was  great,  and  cer- 
tainly Avas  just.  In  his  interview  with  the  Rocky  '  i 
tain  Company,  in  re])ly  to  their  excuses  for,  and  vniuica 
tion  of  their  conduct,  his  answer  Avas: 

"Gentlemen,  1  will  roll  a  stone  into  your  garden  that 
you  will  never  be  able  to  get  out." 

And  he  kept  his  promise ;  for  that  same  autumn  he 
moved  on  to  tlie  Snake  River,  and  built  Fort  Hall,  storing 
his  goods  therein.  The  next  year  he  sold  out  goods  and 
fort  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company ;  and  the  stone  was  in 
the  garden  <^f  tlie  Rocky  Mountain  Fur  Com})any  that 
they  were  never  able  to  dislodge.  When  Wyeth  had  built 
his  fort  and  h.'ft  it  in  cliarge  of  an  agent,  he  dispatched  a 
party  of  trappers  to  hunt  in  the  Big  Blackfoot  countrv. 
under  Joseph  Gale,  who  had  previously  been  in  the  ser 
vice  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  Company,  and  of  whom  we 
shall  learn  more  hereafter,  while  he  set  out  for  the  Co- 
lumbia to  meet  his  vessel,  and  establish  a  salmon  fishery 
The  fate  of  ihat  enterprise  has  already  been  recordtni 

As  for  Bonneville,  he  made  one  more  effort  to  ivach  tk 
lower  Coluraoia;  failing,  however,  a  second  tinK\  f^vr  th«' 
same  reason  as  before — he  could  not  subs^i^^t  himself  and 
company  in  a  country  where  even  evcrv  Indian  refused  to 
sell  to  him  either  furs  or  provisions.  After  hv^ir.g  redui^v 
to  horse-flesh,  and  finding  no  enoou)^v*W<^'^  that  his  con 
dition  would   be  improved   farthvM'  d*,v^u  the  river,  be 


HP 


DIVISION    OF    TERRITORY. 


165 


turned  back  once  more  from  about  Wallah- Wallali,  and 
returned  to  the  mountains,  and  from  there  to  the  east  in 
the  following  year.  A  company  of  his  trappers,  liowever, 
continued  to  hunt  for  him  east  of  the  mountains  for  two 
or  three  years  longer. 

The  rivahy  between  the  Rocky  Mountain  and  American 
Companies  was  this  year  diminished  by  their  mutually 
agi'ociug  to  confine  themselves  to  certain  parts  of  the 
country,  which  treaty  continued  for  two  years,  when  they 
united  in  one  company.  They  were  then,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  a  few  lone  traders,  the  only  competitors  of  the 
Iludsion's  IJay  Company,  for  the  fui'-trade  of  the  West. 


i 


166 


A    VISIT    TO    WYETH'S    TRAPPERS. 


CHAPTER    XI. 


1834.  The  Rocky  Mountain  Company  now  confined 
themselves  to  the  country  lying  east  of  the  mountains, 
and  upon  the  head-waters  and  tributaries  of  the  Missouri, 
a  country  very  productive  in  furs,  and  furnishing  abund- 
ance 01  game.  But  it  was  also  the  moL '.  dangerous  of 
all  the  northern  fur-hunting  territory,  as  it  was  the  home 
of  those  two  nations  of  desperadoes,  the  Crows  and 
Blackfoct.  During  the  two  years  in  which  the  company 
may  have  been  said  almost  to  reside  there,  desperate  en 
counters  and  hair-breadth  escapes  were  incidents  of  daily 
occurrence  to  some  of  the  numerous  trapping  parties. 

The  camp  had  reached  the  Blackfoot  country  in  the 
autumn  of  this  year,  and  the  trappers  were  out  in  all 
directions,  hunting  beaver  in  tlo/d  numerous  small  streams 
that  flow  into  the  Missouri.  On  a  small  branch  of  the 
Gallatin  Fork,  some  of  the  trappers  fell  .in  with  a  party 
of  Wyetli's  men,  under  Joseph  Gale.  When  their  neigh- 
borhood became  known  to  the  Rocky  Mountain  camp, 
Meek  and  a  party  of  sixteen  of  his  associates  immediately 
resolved  to  pay  them  a  visit,  and  inquire  into  their  expe- 
rience since  leaving  rendezvous.  These  visit,:  between 
dilferent  camps  are  usually  seasons  of  great  interest  and 
general  rejoicing.  But  glad  as  Gale  and  his  men  were 
to  meet  with  old  friends,  when  the  first  burst  of  hearty 
greeting  was  over,  they  had  but  a  sorry  experience  to  re- 
late. They  had  been  out  a  long  time.  The  Blackfeet 
had   used   them  badly  —  several   men  had  been  killed. 


THE   VISITORS    BECOME    DKFENDEHS. 


167 


Their  f'S'nns  were  out  of  order,  their  Jimniunition  all  but 
exliaiisted ;  they  were  destitute,  or  nearly  so,  of  traps, 
bliiukets,  knives,  everything.  They  were  what  the  Indian 
and  the  mountain-man  call    "very  poor," 

Half  the  night  was  spent  in  recounting  all  that  had 
passed  in  both  companies  since  the  fall  hunt  began.  Little 
sympathy  did  Wyeth's  men  receive  for  their  forlorn  con- 
dition, lor  sympathy  is  repudiated  by  your  true  moun- 
taineer for  himself,  nor  will  he  fui-nish  it  to  others.  The 
absurd  and  humorous,  or  the  daring  and  reckless,  side  of 
a  story  is  the  only  one  which  is  dwelt  upon  in  narrating 
Ink  adventures.  The  laugh  which  is  raised  at  his  ex})ense 
when  he  has  a  tale  of  woes  to  communicate,  is  a  better 
tonic  to  his  dejected  spirits  than  the  gentlest  pity  would 
be.  Thus  lashed  into  courage  again,  he  is  ready  to  de- 
clare that  all  his  troubles  were  or^y  so  much  pastime. 

It  was  this  sort  of  cheer  which  the  trapping  p.irty  con- 
veyed to  Wyeth's  men  on  this  visit,  and  it  was  gratefully 
received,  as  being  of  the  true  kind. 

In  the  morning  the  party  set  out  to  return  to  camp. 
Meek  and  Liggit  starting  in  advance  of  the  others.  I'hey 
had  not  proceeded  far  whcii  they  were  fii»ed  on  by  a  large 
band  of  Blackfeet,  who  came  upon  them  quite  suddenly, 
and  thinking  these  two  trappers  easy  game,  set  up  a  yell 
and  dashed  at  them.  As  Meek  and  Liggit  turned  back 
and  ran  to  Gale's  camp,  the  Indians  in  full  chase  chained 
on  them,  and  rushed  pell-mell  into  the  midst  of  camp, 
almost  before  tiiey  had  time  to  discover  that  they  had 
surprised  so  large  a  party  of  whites.  So  sudden  was 
th(Mr  advent,  that  they  had  almost  taken  the  camp  before 
the  whites  could  recover  from  the  confusion  of  the  charge. 

It  was  but  a  momentary  shock,  however.  In  another 
instant  the  roar  of  twenty  guns  reverbtH-ated  from  the 
mountains  that  rose  high  on  either  siiW  of  eiunp.     The 


,   ,       Ji)pi  1^* »  I      r  III    P|  I 


168 


FIGHTING    FOR   LIFE. 


Blackfect  were  taken  in  a  snare  ;  but  they  rallied  and  fell 
hack  beyond  the  grove  in  which  the  camp  was  situated, 
setting  on  (ire  the  dry  grass  as  they  went.  The  fire 
quickly  spread  to  the  grove,  and  shot  up  the  pine  trees  in 
splendid  columns  of  flame,  that  seemed  to  lick  the  face 
of  heaven.  The  Indians  kept  close  behind  the  fire,  shoot- 
ing into  camp  whenever  they  could  approach  near  enough, 
the  trappers  replying  by  frequent  volleys.  The  yells  of 
the  savages,  the  noise  of  the  flames  roaring  in  the  trees, 
the  bellowing  of  the  giais,  whose  echoes  rolled  among 
the  hills,  and  the  excitement  of  a  battle  for  life,  made  the 
scene  one  long  to  be  remembered  with  distinctness. 

Both  sides  fought  with  desperation^.  The  Blackfoot 
blood  was  up — the  trapper  blood  no  less.  Gale's  men, 
from  having  no  ammunition,  nor  guns  that  were  in  order, 
c(mld  do  little  more  than  take  charge  of  the  horses,  which 
they  led  out  into  the  bottom  land  to  escape  the  fire,  fight 
the  flames,  and  look  after  the  camp  goods.  The  few 
whose  guns  were  available,  showed  the  game  spirit,  and 


the 


fight 


hecame  mterestmg 


as  an   exhibition  of  what 


mountain  wliite  men  could  do  in  a  contest  of  one  to  ten, 
with  the  crack  warriors  of  the  red  race.  It  was,  at  any 
time,  a  game  party,  consisting  of  Meek,  Carson,  HaAvkins, 
Gale,  Liggit,  Rider,  Robinson,  Anderson,  Russel,  Larison, 
Ward,  Parmaley,  Wade,  Michael  Head,  and  a  few  others 
wl¥)se  names  have  been  forgotten. 

The  trappers  being  driven  out  of  the  grove  by  the  fire, 
were  forced  to  take  to  the  open  ground.  The  Indians, 
following  the  fire,  had  the  advantage  of  the  shelter 
all'orded  by  the  trees,  and  their  shots  made  havoc  among 
the  horses,  most  of  which  were  killed  because  they  could 
not  be  taken.  As  for  the  trappers,  they  used  the  horses 
for  defence,  making  rifie-pitG  behind  them,  when  no  other 
covert  could  be  found.     In  this  manner  the  battle  was 


THE   TRAPPERS     VICTORY. 


!(;9 


siistiiincd  until  tliroc  o'clock  in  the  aftcM-noon,  witlioni  l(»s?i 
of  lite  to  the  whites,  though  severul  incsn  were  wounded. 

At  three  in  the  ufternoon,  the  Blaekfoot  chief  ordered 
a  retreat,  calling  out  to  the  tra])per8  that  they  would  {i<i:ht 
110  more.  Though  their  loss  had  been  heavy,  they  still 
rrrcatly  outnumbered  the  whites  ;  nor  would  the  condition 
of  the  arms  and  the  small  amount  of  ammunition  left 
j)ormit  the  trappers  to  pursue  them.  The  Indians  were 
severely  beaten,  and  no  longer  in  a  condition  to  fight,  all 
of  which  was  irighly  satisfactory  to  the  victors.  The  oidy 
regret  was,  that  Bridger's  camp,  widen  had  become  aware 
during  the  day  that  a  battle  was  going  on  in  the  neigh- 
borhood, did  not  arrive  early  enough  to  exterminate  the 
whole  band.  As  it  was,  the  big  ■.,.  .i.-p  only  came  up  in 
time  to  assist  in  taking  care  of  the  wounded.  The  de- 
struction of  their  horses  put  an  end  to  the  independent 
existence  of  Gale's  brigade,  which  joined  itself  and  its 
fortunes  to  Bridger's  ccmmand  for  the  remainder  of  the 
year.  Had  it  not  been  for  the  fortunate  visit  of  the  trap- 
pers to  Gale's  camp,  without  doubt  every  man  in  it  would 
have  perished  at  the  hands  of  the  Blackfcet :  a  [)iece  of 
had  fortune  not  unaecordant  with  that  which  seemed  to 
[lUi'sue  the  enterprises  set  on  foot  by  the  active  but  un- 
Kicky  New  England  trader. 

Not  long  after  this  battle  with  the  Blackfeet,  Meek  and 
a  trapper  named  Crow,  with  two  Shawnees,  went  over 
into  the  Crow  Country  to  trap  on  Pryor's  River,  a  branch 
of  the  Yellowstone.  On  coming  to  the  pass  in  the  moun- 
tains between  the  Gallatin  Fork  of  the  Missouri  and  the 
great  bend  in  the  Yellowstone,  called  Pryor's  Gap,  Meek 
rode  forward,  with  the  mad-cap  spirit  strong  in  him,  to 
■  have  a  little  fun  with  the  boys,"  and  advancing  a  short 
distance  into  the  pass,  wheeled  suddenly,  and  came  racing 
back,  whooping  and  yelling,  to  make  his  comrades  think 


* 


m 


■^m 


JJiu.'i  tJ  11  i.uimw>  ' 


170 


CHASED    BY    INDIANS — A    BLACKFOOT    AMBUSH, 


he  had  di.scovered  Indians.  And  lo!  as  if  his  yells  had 
invoked  them  Ironi  the  roeks  and  trees,  a  war  party  sud- 
denly emerged  from  the  pass,  on  the  heels  of  the  jester, 
and  what  had  been  sport  speedily  became  earnest,  as  the 
trajjpers  turned  their  horses'  heads  and  made  oft'  in  the 
direction  of  camj).  Tiiey  had  a  line  race  of  it,  and  heard 
other  yells  and  war-whoops  besides  their  own  ;  but  they 
contrived  to  elude  their  .pursuers,  returning  safe  to  camp. 

This  freak  of  Meek's  was,  after  all,  a  fortunate  ins])irii 
tion,  for  had  the  four  trappers  entered  the  pass  and  coiiio 
upon  the  war  party  of  Crows,  they  would  never  have  es- 
caped alive. 

A  few  days  after,  the  same  party  set  out  again,  and 
succeeded  in  reaching  Pryor's  River  unmolested,  and  set- 
ting their  traps.  They  remained  some  time  in  this  neigh- 
borhood trap})ing,  but  the  season  had  become  prott^'  well 
advanced,  and  they  were  thinking  of  returning  to  camp 
for  the  winter.  The  Shawnees  set  out  in  one  direction 
to  take  up  their  traps.  Meek  and  Crow  in  another.  The 
stream  where  thiur  traps  were  set  was  bordered  by  thick- 
ets of  willow,  wild  cherry,  and  plum  trees,  and  the  hank 
was  about  ten  feet  above  the  water  at  this  season  of  the 


uir. 


yei 

Meek  had  his  traps  set  in  the  stream  about  midway  be 
tween  two  thickets.  As  he  approached  the  river  he  ob 
served  with  the  qui(  c  eye  of  an  experir  iced  moantain- 
man,  certain  signs  wh  ;!»  giive  him  little  satisfaction.  The 
bulValo  Avere  moving  olf  as  if  disturbed ;  a  bear  ran  sud- 
denly out  of  its  covert  among  the  willows.     "^ 

"1  told  Crow,"  said  Meek,  'Mluit  I  didn't  like  l>  go  in 
there,  lie  laughed  at  mo,  and  called  me  acoAvard.  'All 
the  same,'  T  said ;  I  had  no  ftmcy  for  the  place  just  then 
— 1  didn't  like  the  indications.  But  he  kept  jeering  me, 
and  at  last  1  got  nuid  and  started  in.     Just  as  I  got  to  my 


A    RUNNIN(}    FKiHT. 


171 


traps.  1  (li>!COverc(l  tliut  two  red  dovila  war  u  wiitchiii<>-  mo 
I'roiii  the  shelter  of  the  thicket  to  my  h'lt,  about  two  rods 
,)(V.  W'hvn  lliey  saw  that  they  war  discovered  they  raised  • 
tlieir  guns  and  tired.  I  turned  my  horse's  head  at  the 
sunc  instant,  and  one  ball  ])assed  tliroui;h  liis  neck,  under 
the  neck  bone,  and  the  other  through  his  Avithers,  just 
forward  of  my  saddle. 

"Seeing  that  they  had  not  hit  me,  one  of  them  ran  up 
with  a  s])  1'  to  spear  me.  My  horse  war  rearing  and  pitch- 
ing from  the  pain  of  his  wounds,  so  that  I  could  withdiih- 
culty  govern  him ;  but  I  had  my  gun  laid  across  my  arm, 
and  wh(!n  1  tired  I  killed  the  rascal  with  the  sjjear.  Up 
to  that  moment  I  had  supposed  that  them  two  war  all  1 
had  to  deal  with.  But  as  1  got  my  horse  turned  round, 
with  my  arm  raised  to  fire  at  the  other  red  devil,  I  encoun- 
tered the  main  party,  forty-nine  of  them,  Avho  war  in  the 
bed  of  the  stream,  and  had  been  covered  by  the  bank. 
They  fired  a  volley  at  me.  Eleven  balls  passed  through 
my  blanket,  nnder  my  arm,  Avhich  war  raised.  I  thought 
it  time  to  run,  and  run  I  did.  Crow  war  about  two  hun- 
dred yards  off.  So  quick  had  all  this  happened,  that  he 
had  not  stirred  from  the  spot  whar  I  left  him.  When  I 
came  up  to  him  I  called  out  that  I  must  get  on  behind 
him,  for  my  horse  war  sick  and  staggering. 

"  'Try  him  again,'  said  Crow,  who  war  as  anxious  to  be 
off  as  I  war.  I  did  try  him  agin,  and  sure  enough,  he  got 
tip  a  gallop,  jind  away  we  went,  the  Blackfeet  after  us. 
But  being  mounted,  we  had  the  advantage,  and  soon  dis- 
taiieed  them.  Before  we  had  run  a  mile,  I  had  to  disniount 
■iiid  bi'ciithe  my  horse.  We  war  in  a  narrow  ])ass  whar  it 
war  iinpossible  to  hide,  so  when  the  Indians  came  up  with 
us,  as  they  did,  while  I  war  dismounted  we  took  sure  aim 
and  killed  the  two  foremost  ones.  Before  the  others  could 
get  close  enough  to  fire  we  war  off  agin.     It  didn't  take 


iMj|i»^rMH  ■!  ■■ 


172 


f:HCAPE. 


miu'li  \\r<^\n<f  to  mako  my  horse  go  then,  for  the  yolls  of 
them  Hliicklbet  spurred  liim  on. 

"Wlieii  we  had  run  another  mile  I  dismounted  agin,  for 
fear  that  my  horse  would  give  out,  and  agin  we  war  over- 
taken. Them  Blackleetare  powerful  runners: — no  better 
than  us  mountain-men,  though.  This  time  we  served 
them  just  as  we  did  before.  We  picked  off  two  of  the 
foremost,  and  then  went  on,  the  rest  whooping  after  us, 
We  war  overtaken  a  third  time  in  the  same  manner ;  and 
the  third  time  two  lilackfeet  fell  dead  in  advance.  At  this, 
they  took  the  hint.  Six  warriors  already  gone  for  two 
white  scalps  and  two  horses;  they  didn't  know  how  mam- 
more  would  go  in  the  same  way.  And  I  reckon  they  bad 
run  about  all  they  wanted  to,  anyway." 

It  is  only  necessary  to  add  that  Meek  and  Crow  arrived 
safely  at  camp;  and  that  the  Shawnees  came  in  after  a  day 
or  two  all  right.  Soon  after  the  whole  command  under 
Bridgcr  moved  on  to  the  Yellowstone,  nnd  went  into  win- 
ter camp  in  the  great  bend  of  that  ri/er,  where  buffalo 
were  plenty,  and  cotton-wood  was  in  abundance.        '^^^^  ^^ 

1835.  Towards  spring,  however,  the  game  had  nearly 
all  disappearc  i  from  the  neighborhood  of  the  camp ;  and 
the  hunters  were  forced  to  follow  the  buffalo  in  their  mi- 
gration eastward.  On  one  of  these  expeditions  a  party 
of  six  trappers,  including  Meek,  and  a  man  named  Bose, 
made  their  camp  on  Clarke's  fork  of  the  Yellowstone. 
The  first  night  in  camp  Rose  had  a  dream  with  which  he 
was  very  much  impressed.  He  dreamed  of  shaking  hands 
with  a  large  white  bear,  which  insisted  on  taking  his  right 
hand  for  that  friendly  ceremony.  He  had  not  given  it 
very  willingly,  for  he  knew  too  much  about  bears  in  gen- 
eral to  desire  to  be  on  very  intimate  terms  with  them. 

Seeing  that  the  dream  troubled  Rose,  who  was  supersti- 
tiously  inclined,  Meek  resorted  to  that  "  certain  medicine 


A   SIN(5ULAR    DREAM    AND    ITS    INTKItl'HKTATION. 


\7:) 


lor  iniiids  disciiscd"  which  was  in  use  in  the  nioimtains,  and 
added  to  the  distress  of  Hose  his  interpretation,  in  the 
s|)iril  (d'  ridiewle,  tellinj^'  liiin  that  he  was  an  adept  in  the 
matter  ol' dreams,  and  that  unless  lie,  Rose,  was  very  niind- 
t'ul  of  himself  that  day,  he  would  shake  hands  with  IJcel- 
ZL'bul)  before  he  slept  again. 

With  tins  conU()rtin<^-  assurance.  Rose  set  out  with  the 
rcinaiiidcr  of  the  party  to  hunt  hidhdo.  They  liad  pro 
cooded  alfout  three  miles  from  eanij).  Rose  riding  in  ad- 
vance, when  they  suddenly  encountered  a  company  of 
Biackfeet,  nine  in  number,  spies'from  a  war  party  of  one 
hundred  and  fifty,  that  was  prowling  and  marauding 
dirough  the  country  on  the  lookout  for  small  parties  fi'om 
tbo  camp  of  Bridgcr.  The  Jilackfeet  lired  on  the  i)arty 
as  it  came  up,  from  their  place  of  concealment,  a  ball  strik- 
ing Rose's  right  arm,  and  breaking  it  at  the  elbow.  This 
caused  his  gun  to  fall,  and  an  Indian  sprang  forward  and 
raised  it  up  quickly,  aiming  it  at  Meek.  The  ball  passed 
through  his  cap  without  doing  any  other  harm.  By  this 
time  the  trappers  were  made  aware  of  an  ambuscade;  but 
how  numerous  the  enemy  was  they  could  not  determine. 
However,  as  the  rest,  who  were  well  mounted,  turned  to 
lly,  Meek,  who  was  riding  an  old  mule  that  had  to  be  beaten 
over  tlie  head  to  make  it  go,  seeing  that  he  was  going  to 
l)e  left  behind,  called  out  lustily,  "  hold  on,  boys !  There's 
not  m;(iiy  f>F  thera.  Let's  stop  and  fight  'em;"  at  the 
same  tine  poinding  the  mule  over  the  head,  but  without 
effect,  i'lie  Indians  saw  the  predicament,  and  ran  up  to 
seize  tlie  mule  by  the  bridle,  but  the  moment  the  mule  got 
wind  of  the  savages,  away  h'^  went,  racing  like  a  thorough- 
bred, jumping  impediments,  and  running  right  over  a  ra- 
vine, which  was  fortunately  filled  with  snow.  This  move- 
ment brought  Meek  out  ahead. 

The  other  men  then  began  to  call  out  to  Meek  to  stop 


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174 


MEEK  8  MULE   STORY. 


and  fight.  "Run  for  your  lives,  boys,"  roarod  Meek  back 
at  them,  ''  there's  ten  thousand  of  them ;  tliey'll  kill  every 
one  of  you !  " 

The  mule  had  got  his  head,  and  there  was  no  more  stop 
ping  him  than  there  had  been  starting  him.  On  he  went 
in  the  direction  of  the  Yellowstone,  while  th(;  others  made 
for  Clarke's  Fork.  On  arriving  at  the  former  river,  Meek 
found  that  some  of  the  pack  hor.ses  had  followed  him, 
and  others  the  rest  of  the  party.  This  had  divided  the 
Indians,  three  or  four  of  whom  were  on  his  trail.  Spring 
ing  off  his  mule,  he  threw  his  blankets  down  on  the  ice, 
and  by  moving  them  alternately  soon  crossed  the  mule 
over  to  the  opposite  side,  just  in  time  to  avoid  a  bullet  that 
came  whistling  after  him.  As  the  Indians  could  not  fol 
low,  he  pursued  his  way  to  camp  in  safety,  arriving  late 
that  evening.  The  main  party  were  already  in  and  expect 
ing  him.  Soon  after,  the  buffalo  hunters  returned  to  the 
big  camp,  minus  some  pack  horses,  but  with  a  good  story 
to  tell,  at  the  expense  of  Meek,  and  which  he  enjoys  tell- 
ing of  himself  to  this  day. 


T 


FIIIST    LOVE. — liEAUTl    OF    UMENTUCKEN. 


175 


CHAPTER    XII. 


1835.  Owing  to  the  high  rate  of  pay  which  Meek  was 
now  able  to  command,  he  began  to  think  of  imitating  the 
t'xaniplc  of  that  distinguished  order,  the  free  trappers,  to 
wliieli  he  now  belonged,  and  setting  up  a  lodge  to  himself 
as  a  family  man.  The  writer  of  this  veracious  history  has 
never  been  able  to  obtain  a  full  and  particular  account  of 
our  hero's  earliest  love  adventures.  This  is  a  subject  on 
wliich,  in  common  with  most  mountain-men,  he  observes  a 
hi'coming  reticence.  But  of  one  thing  we  feel  quite  well 
assured:  that  from  the  time  when  the  young  Shoshonie 
hcauty  assisted  in  the  rescue  of  himself  and  Sublette  from 
the  execution  of  the  death  sentence  at  the  hands  of  her 
|)onple,  Meek  had  always  cherished  a  rather  more  than 
tViendly  regard  for  the  "Mountain  Lamb." 

But  Sublette,  with  wealth  and  power,  and  the  privileges 
of  a  Booshway,  had  hastened  to  secure  her  for  himself; 
and  Meek  had  to  look  and  long  from  afiir  off,  until,  in  the 
year  of  which  wo  are  writing,  Milton  Subletie  was  forced 
to  leave  the  mountains  and  repair  to  an  eastern  city  for 
surgical  aid ;  having  received  a  very  troublesome  wound 
in  the  leg,  which  was  only  cured  at  last  by  amput^ition. 

Whether  it  was  the  act  of  a  gay  Lothario,  or  whether 
the  law  of  divorce  is  even  more  easy  in  the  mountains 
than  in  Indiana,  we  have  always  judiciously  refrained  from 
iiKjuiring;  but  this  we  do  know,  upon  the  word  of  Meek 
linnscir,  no  sooner  was  Milton's  back  turned,  than  his  friend 
12 


i 


4 


i 


ITG 


IIEIl    DRESa,    FIOHSE,    AND    KQUIPMRNTS, 


SO  insinuated  himself  into  the  good  graces  of  his  Isabel 
as  Sublette  was  wont  to  name  the  lovely  Umentuckcn,  that 
she  consented  to  join  her  fortunes  to  those  of  the  handsome 
young  trapper  without  even  the  ceremony  of  ser\  ing  a 
notice  on  her  former  lord.  As  their  season  of  bliss  only 
extended  over  one  brief  year,  this  chapter  shall  be  entirely 
devoted  to  recording  such  facts  as  have  been  imparted  to 
us  concerning  this  free  trapper's  wife. 

"  She  was  the  most  beautiful  Indian  woman  I  ever  saw,'' 
says  Meek:  "and  when  she  was  mounted  on  her  dapple 
gray  horse,  which  cost  me  three  hundred  d(;llars,  she 
made  a  fine  show.  She  wore  a  skirt  of  beautiful  blue 
broadcloth,  and  a  bodice  and  leggins  of  scarlet  cloth,  of 
the  very  finest  make.  Her  hair  was  braided  and  fell  over 
her  shoulders,  a  scarlet  silk  handkerchief,  tied  on  hood 
fashion,  covered  her  head;  and  the  finest  embroidered 
moccasins  her  feet.  She  rode  like  all  the  Indian  women, 
astride,  and  carried  on  one  side  of  the  saddle  the  toma- 
hawk for  war,  and  on  the  other  the  pipe  of  peace. 

"The  name  of  her  horse  was  "All  Fours."  His  accou- 
trements were  as  fine  as  his  rider's.  The  saddle,  crupper, 
and  bust  girths  cost  one  hundred  and  fifty  dollars;  the 
bridle  fifty  dollars;  and  the  mu.sk-a-moots  fifty  dollars  more. 
All  those  articles  were  ornamented  with  fine  cut  glass  beads, 
porcupine  quills,  and  hawk's  bells,  that  tinkled  at  every  step. 
Her  blankets  were  of  scarlet  and  blue,  and  of  the  finest 
quality.  Such  was  the  outfit  of  the  trapper's  wife,  Umen- 
tucken^  Tnkutey  Undevivatsj/^  the  Lamb  of  the  Mountains." 

Although  Umentuckcn  was  beautiful,  and  had  a  name 
signifying  gentleness,  she  was  not  without  a  will  and  a 
spirit  of  her  own,  when  the  occasion  demanded  it.  Whili; 
the  camp  was  on  the  Yellowstone  River,  in  the  summer  of 
1835,  a  party  of  women  left  it  to  go  in  search  of  berries, 
which  were  often  dried  and  stored  for  winter  use  by  the 


accou- 
upper, 
■s;  the 
s  more, 

beads, 
ry  step. 
iG  finest 

Umen- 
ntains." 
a  name 
I  and  a 

While 
nmer  of 
berries, 
3  by  the 


v'^: 


■'   M 


UMENTUCKEN'S   QUARKEL   WITH    TUE    TRAPPER. 


177 


riulian  women.  Umcntucken  accom])anied  this  party, 
which  was  attacked  by  a  band  of  Blaekfect,  some  of  the 
s([uaws  being  taken  prisoners.  But  Umentucken  saved 
liersclf  by  flight,  and  by  swimming  the  Yellowstone  while 
a  hundred  guns  were  leveled  on  her,  the  bullets  whistling 
about  licr  cars. 

At  another  time  she  distinguished  herself  in  camp  by  a 
quarrel  with  one  of  the  trappers,  in  which  she  came  oft' 
with  flying  colors.  The  trapper  was  a  big,  bullying  Irish- 
man named  O'Fallen,  who  had  purchased  two  prisoners 
from  the  Snake  Indians,  to  be  kept  in  a  state  of  slavery, 
after  the  manner  of  the  savages.  The  prisoners  were 
Utes,  or  Utahs,  who  soon  contrived  to  escape.  O'Fallen, 
imagining  that  Umentucken  had  liberated  them,  threatened 
to  whip  her,  and  armed  himself  with  a  horsewhip  for  that 
purpose.  On  hearing  of  these  threats  Umentucken  re- 
paired to  her  lodge,  and  also  armed  herself,  but  with  a 
pistol.  When  O'Fallen  approached,  the  whole  camp  look- 
ing on  to  see  the  event,  Umentucken  slipped  out  at  the 
back  of  the  lodge  and  coming  around  confronted  him  be- 
fore he  could  enter.  '  ''f^-- 

"Coward!"  she  cried.  "You  would  whip  the  wife  of 
Meek.  He  is  not  here  to  defend  me  ;  not  here  to  kill  you. 
But  I  ^hall  do  that  for  myself,"  and  with  that  she  presented, 
the  pistol  to  his  head.  O'Fallen  taken  by  surprise,  and 
having  every  reason  to  believe  she  would  keep  her  word, 
and  kill  him  on  the  spot,  was  obliged  not  only  to  apologize, 
but  to  beg  to  have  his  life  spared.  This  Umentucken  con- 
sented to  do  on  condition  of  his  sufficiently  bumbling  him- 
self, which  he  did  in  a  very  shame-faced  manner ;  and  a  shout 
then  went  up  from  the  whole  camp — "  hurrah  for  the 
Mountain  Lamb!"  for  nothing  more  delights  a  mountain- 
eer than  a  show  of  pluck,  especially  in  an  unlooked  for 
quarter. 


\vl 


it* 


trij 


\  n 


1  !^ 


i   rl 

i 


&,:. 


178     UMENTUCKEN    CAPTUUED    BV  CROWS. — HKR    KE80UE. 


Tho  Indian  wives  of  tlio  trappers  wore  often  in  great 
peril,  as  well  as  their  lords.  Whenever  it  was  eonveniout 
they  followed  them  on  their  lon<^  marehes  through  dun- 
fijerous  countries.  But  if  the  trapper  was  only  f^oing  out 
for  a  few  days,  or  if  the  march  before  him  was  more  than 
usually  dangerous,  the  wife  remained  with  the  main  camp. 

During  this  year  of  which  we  are  writing,  a  considera- 
ble party  had  been  out  on  Powder  River  hunting  buffalo, 
taking  their  wives  along  with  them.  When  on  the  return, 
just  before  reaching  camp,  Umentueken  was  missed  from 
the  cavalcade.  She  had  fallen  behind,  and  been  taken 
prisoner  by  a  ])arty  of  twelve  Crow  Indian.s.  As  soon  as 
she  wa«  missed,  a  volunteer  party  mounted  their  buffalo 
horses  in  such  haste  that  they  waited  not  for  .saddle  or  bri- 
dle, but  snatched  only  a  halter,  and  started  back  in  pursuit. 
They  had  not  run  a  very  long  distance  when  they  discov- 
ered poor  Umentueken  in  the  midst  of  her  jubilant  captors, 
who  were  delighting  their  eyes  with  gazing  at  her  fine 
feathers,  and  promising  themselves  very  soon  to  pluck  the 
gay  bird,  and  a])propriate  her  trinkets  to  their  own  use. 

Their  delight  was  premature.  Swift  on  their  heels  came 
an  avenging,  as  well  as  a  saving  spirit.  Meek,  at  the 
head  of  his  six  comrades,  no  sooner  espied  the  drooping 
form  of  the  Lamb,  than  he  urged  his  horse  to  the  top  of 
its  speed.  The  horse  was  a  spirited  creature,  that  seeing 
something  wrong  in  all  these  hasty  maneuvers,  took  fright 
and  adding  terror  to  good  will,  ran  with  the  speed  of  mad- 
ness right  in  amongst  the  startled  Crows,  who  doubtless 
regarded  as  a  great  "  medicine  "  so  fearless  a  warrior.  It 
was  now  too  late  to  be  prudent,  and  Meek  began  the  bat- 
tle by  yelling  and  firing,  taking  care  to  hit  his  Indian. 
The  other  trappers,  emulating  the  bold  example  of  their 
leader,  dashed  into  the  melee  and  a  chance  medley  fight 
was  carried  on,  in  which  Umentueken  escaped,  and  another 


^^  i 


4 


AN    INHULT    TO    UMENTUCKEN    AVENGED    HY    MEEK.       17!) 


n 


Crow  bit  the  dust.  Finding  th:it  thoy  wore  getting  the 
worst  of  the  light,  the  liuliuns  at  length  took  to  fiiglit, 
and  the  tra[)pers  retnrned  to  eamp  rejoicing,  and  conipli- 
inciiling  Meek  on  his  galhuitry  in  attacking  the  Crows 
siiij;lo -handed. 

"1  took  their  compliments  quite  naturally,"  says  Meek, 
"nor  did  I  think  it  war  worth  while  to  explain  to  them 
that  1  couldn't  hold  my  horse." 

The  Indians  are  lordly  and  tyrannical  in  their  treatment 
of  women,  thinking  it  no  shame  to  beat  them  cruelly  ; 
even  taking  the  liberty  of  striking  other  women  than  those 
belonging  to  their  own  families.  While  the  camp  wjis  trav- 
eling through  the  Crow  country  in  the  spring  of  183G,  a 
party  of  that  nation  paid  a  visit  to  Bridger,  bringing  skins 
to  trade  for  blankets  and  ammunition.  The  bargaining 
went  on  quite  pleasantly  for  some  time ;  but  one  of 
the  braves  who  was  promenading  about  camp  inspecting 
whatever  came  in  his  way,  chanced  to  strike  Umentucken 
with  a  whip  he  carried  in  his  hand,  by  way  of  displaying 
his  sui)eriority  to  squaws  in  general,  and  trappers'  wives 
in  particular.  It  was  an  unlucky  blow  for  the  brave,  for 
in  another  instant  he  rolled  on  the  gro  rnd,  shot  dead  by 
a  bullet  from  Meek's  gun. 

At  this  rash  act  the  camp  was  in  confusion.  Yells  from 
the  Crows,  who  took  the  act  as  a  signal  for  war;  hasty 
questions,  and  cries  of  command  ;  arming  and  shooting. 
Il  was  some  time  before  the  case  could  be  explained  or 
understood.  The  Crows  had  two  or  three  of  their  party 
shot ;  the  whites  also  lost  a  man.  After  the  unpremedita- 
ted tight  was  over,  and  the  Crows  departed  not  thoroughly 
satisfied  with  the  explanation,  Bridger  went  round  to 
Mi'ek's  lodge.    '   •   • 

"  Well,  you  raised  a  hell  of  a  row  in  camp ; "  said  the 
commander,  rolling  out  his  deep  bass  voice  in  the  slow 


I 


^"■1 


% 


i  .in 


lilf 


180       THK    FKMALK    KLKMKNT — DEATH    OF    UMENTUCKEN.' 

monotonous  tonos  which  mountain  men  very  ({uickly  ac- 
quire from  the  Indians. 

"  Very  sorry,  Bridger ;  but  coukln't  help  it.  No  devil 
of  an  Indian  shall  strike  Meek's  wife." 

"  But  you  got  a  man  killed." 

"  Sorry  for  the  man  ;  couldn't  help  it,  though,  Bridger." 

And  in  truth  it  was  too  late  to  mend  the  matter.  Fear- 
ing, however,  that  the  Crows  would  attempt  to  avenge 
themselves  for  the  losses  they  had  sustained,  13ridger  hur- 
ried his  camp  forward,  and  got  out  of  their  neighborhood 
as  quickly  as  possible. 

So  much  for  the  female  clement  in  the  camp  of  the 
Rocky  Mountain  trapper.  Wonum,  it  is  said,  has  held  the 
apple  of  discord,  from  mother  Eve  to  Umentucken,  and 
in  consonance  with  this  theory,  Bridger,  doubtless,  con 
sidered  the  latter  as  the  primal  cause  of  the  unfortunate 
"  row  in  camp,"  rather  than  the  brutality  of  the  Crow,  or 
the  imprudence  of  Meek. 

But  Umontucken's  career  was  nearly  run.  In  the  fol- 
lowing summer  she  met  her  death  by  a  Bannack  arrow; 
dying  like  a  warrior,  although  living  she  was  only  a  woman. 


^/^^V,.m 


\ 


-  i 


ADVENT   OF   TWO   MISSIONAHIES. 


181 


CHAPTER    XIII. 


1835.  The  rondozvous  of  the  Hooky  Mountain  Com- 
])iuiy  scUlom  took  place  without  combining  with  its  many 
wild  elements,  some  other  more  civilized  and  refined. 
Arti.'^ts,  botanists,  travelers,  and  hunters,  from  the  busy 
world  outside  the  wilderness,  frequently  claimed  the  com- 
j)iUiioiishi[),  if  not  the  hospitality  of  the  fur  companies,  in 
tliL'ir  wanderin<:;s  over  prairies  and  among  mountains.  Up 
to  the  year  1835,  these  visitors  had  been  of  the  classes 
just  named ;  men  traveling  either  for  the  love  of  adven- 
ture, to  prosecute  discoveries  in  science,  or  to  add  to  art 
the  treasure  of  new  scenes  and  subjects. 

]3ut  in  this  year  there  appeared  at  rendezvous  two  gen- 
tleinoii,  who  had  accompanied  the  St.  Louis  Company  in 
its  outward  trip  to  the  mountains,  whose  object  was  not 
the  procurement  of  pleasure,  o^  the  improvement  of  sci- 
ence. They  had  come  to  found  missions  among  the  In- 
dians ;  the  Rev.  Samuel  Parker  and  Rev.  Dr.  Marcus 
\\' hit  man  ;  the  first  a  scholarly  and  fastidious  man,  and 
the  other  possessing  all  the  boldness,  energy,  and  contempt 
of  fastidiousness,  which  would  have  made  him  as  good  a 
mountain  leader,  as  he  was  an  energetic  servant  of  the 
Anierican  Board  of  Foreign  Missions. 

The  cause  which  had  brought  these  gentlemen  to  the 
wilfl(!rness  was  a  little  incident  connected  with  the  fur 
trade.  Four  Flathead  Indians,  in  the  year  1832,  having 
lieard  enough  of  the  Christian  religion,  from  the  few  de- 


tl  ■:     \ 


RV.  ' 


'v! 


M 


'  m 


I     ,  :    ■ 


. )   4 


182 


HONNKVILLE  8   ACCOUNT    OF    TlIK   NEZ    I'KIICKS. 


l.i 


vout  men  connected  with  llic  fur  eonipaiiies,  to  desire  to 
know  more,  performed  u  v-inter  journey  to  St.  Louis,  and 
there  made  iiujuiry  about  the  white  nuuTs  reli<^don.  This 
incident,  wliich  to  any  one  ae(iuuinted  with  Indiun  ehan.v;- 
ter,  would  a))|)ear  a  very  natural  one,  when  it  became 
known  to  Chri.stian  churches  in  the  United  States,  excited 
a  very  lively  interest,  and  seemed  to  call  upon  them  like 
a  voice  out  of  heaven,  to  fly  to  the  rescue  of  ])erisliing 
heathen  souls.  The  Methodist  Church  Avas  the  lirst  to  re- 
81)on(l.  When  W'ycth  returned  to  the  mountains  in  1834, 
four  missionaries  ,iccom])anied  him,  destined  for  the  vallc) 
of  the  Wallamet  River  in  Urej^^on.  In  the  Ibllowing  year, 
the  Presbyterian  Church  sent  out  its  a^^ents,  the  two  ^m- 
tlemen  above  mentioned;  one  of  whom,  Dr.  Whitman, 
subsequently  located  near  Fort  Walla-AValla. 

The  account  given  by  Capt.  Bonneville  of  the  Flatheads 
and  Nez  Perces,  as  he  found  them  in  1832,  before  mission 
ary  labor  had  been  among  them,  throws  some  light  on  the 
incident  of  the  journey  to  St.  Louis,  which  so  touched  tlic 
Christian  heart  in  the  f  nited  States.  After  relating  his 
surprise  at  finding  that  the  Nez  Perces  observed  certain 
sacred  days,  he  continues  :  "  A  few  days  afterwards,  fonr 
of  them  signified  that  they  were  about  to  hunt.  '  What!" 
exclaimed  the  captain,  '  without  guns  or  arrows ;  and 
with  only  one  old  spear  ?  What  do  you  expect  to  kill? 
They  smiled  among  themselves,  but  made  no  answer. 
Preparatory  to  the  chase,  they  performed  some  religious 
rights,  and  offered  up  to  the  Great  Spirit  a  few  short 
prayers  for  safety  and  success;  then  having  received  the 
blessing  of  their  wives,  they  leaped  upon  their  horses  and 
departed,  leaving  the  wdiole  party  of  Christian  spectators 
amazed  and  rebuked  by  this  lesson  of  faith  and  depend- 
ence on  a  supreme  and  benevolent  Being.  Acii  imied 
as  I  had  heretofore  been  to  find  the  wretched  ludii':;  rev- 


AN    ENTHUHIAflTIC    VIEW    OK    INDIAN    CIIAUACTEIl. 


1H3 


cling  in  l)l()(»(l,  and  stiiiiKMl  by  every  viee  whicli  can  dc- 
..•iiulc  limniuj  nature,  1  could  scarcely  realize  the  .sc(Mie 
wliirli  1  liiid  witnessed.  Wonder  at  such  unalVectetl  ten- 
derness and  pi(*ty,  where  it  was  least  to  have  been  sought, 
contended  in  all  our  bosoms  with  shame  and  confusion,  at 
ren,ivin<jf  such  pure  and  wholesome  insuu  Mens  IVom 
creatures  so  far  below  us  in  all  the  arts  and  comforts 
of  life. 

"  Siinjdy  to  call  these  people  relifi^ious,'  continaed  Hornie- 
ville,  '  ^  wuld  convey  but  a  faint  idea  of  th'  deep  hue  of 
niety  and  devotion  which  pervades  their  whole  conduct. 
'flieir  honesty  is  immaculate,  and  their  purity  of  purpose, 
and  their  observance  of  the  rites  of  their  relijjfion,  are 
most  uniform  and  remarkable.  They  are  certainly  more 
like  a  iKition  of  saints  than  a  horde  of  savage.«." 

This  was  a  very  enthusiastic  view  to  take  of  the  Nez 
Perce  character,  which  appeared  all  the  bri^rhter  to  the 
Captain,  by  contrast  with  the  savage  life  which  he  had 
witnessed  in  other  places,  and  even  by  cimtrast  with  the 
conduct  of  the  white  trappers.  But  the  Nez  Perces  and 
Flatheads  were,  intellectually  and  morally,  an  exception 
to  all  the  Indian  tribes  west  of  the  Missouri  River.  Lewis 
and  Clarke  found  them  different  from  any  others  ;  the  fur- 
traders  and  the  mi^Liionaries  found  them  different;  and 
tliey  remain  at  this  day  an  honorable  example,  for  probity 
and  piety,  to  both  savage  and  civilized  peoples 

To  account  for  this  superiority  is  indeed  difficult.  The 
only  clue  to  the  cause  is  in  the  followdng  stat-^mcnt  of 
Bonneville's.  "  It  would  appear,"  he  says,  '  that  they  had 
imbibed  some  notions  of  the  Christian  faith  from  Catholic 
missionaries  and  traders  who  had  been  among  them.  They 
even  had  a  rude  calender  of  the  fasts  and  festivals  of  the 
Uomish  Church,  and  some  traces  of  its  ceremonials.    These 


184 


THE    INDUNS   IDEA   OF   A   GOD. 


have  become  blended  with  their  own  wild  rites,  and  pre- 
sent a  strange  medley,  civilized  and  barbarous." 

Poinding  that  these  people  among  whom  he  was  thrown 
exhibited  such  remarkable  traits  of  charactler,  Captain 
Bonneville  exerted  himself  to  make  them  acquainted  with 
the  history  and  spirit  of  Christianity.  To  these  explana- 
tions they  listened  with  preat  eagerness.  "  Many  a  time," 
he  says,  "  was  my  litde  lodge  thronged,  or  rather  piled 
with  hearers,  for  they  lay  on  the  ground,  one  leaning  over 
the  other,  until  there  was  no  further  room,  .all  listening 
with  greedy  ears  to  the  wonders  which  the  Great  Spirit 
had  revealed  to  the  wdiite  man.  No  other  subject  gave 
them  half  the  satisfaction,  or  commanded  half  the  atten- 
tioi; ;  and  but  few  scenes  of  my  life  remain  so  freshly  on 
my  memory,  or  are  so  pleasurably  recalled  to  my  contempla- 
tion, as  these  hours  of  intercourse  with  a  distant  and  be- 
nighted race  in  the  midst  of  the  desert." 

It  was  the  interest  awakened  by  these  discourses  of 
Captain  Bonneville,  and  possibly  by  Smith,  and  other 
traders  who  happened  to  fall  in  with  the  Nez  Perces  and 
Flatheads,  that  stimulated  those  four  Flatheads  to  under- 
take the  journey  to  St.  Louis  in  search  of  information; 
and  this  it  was  which  resulted  in  the  establishment  of 
missions,  both  in  western  Oregon,  and  among  the  tribes 
inhabiting  the  country  between  the  two  great  branches  of 
the  Columbia. 

The  trait  of  Indian  character  which  Bonneville,  in  his 
pleased  surprise  at  the  apparent  piety  of  the  Nez  Perces 
and  Flatheads,  fiiiled  to  observe,  and  which  the  missiona- 
ries themselves  for  a  long  time  remained  oblivious  to,  was 
the  material  nature  of  their  religious  views.  The  Indian 
judges  of  all  things  by  the  material  results.  If  he  is  pos- 
sessed of  a  good  natural  intelligence  and  powers  of  obser- 
vation, he  soon  discovers  that  the  God  of  the  Indian  is 


THE  Indian's  religion — material  good  desired.    185 


])Ut  a  feeble  deity ;  for  does  he  not  perg^t  the  Indian  to 
be  defeated  in  war  ;  to  starve,  and  to  freeze  ?  Do  not  the 
hidian  medicine  men  often  fail  to  save  life,  to  win  battles, 
to  curse  their  enemies  ?  The  Indian's  God,  he  argues, 
must  be  a  good  deal  of  a  humbug.  He  sees  the  white 
men  faring  much  better.  They  have  guns,  ammunition, 
blankets,  knives,  everything  in  plenty ;  and  they  are  suc- 
cessful in  war ;  are  skillful  in  a  thousand  things  the  Indian 
knows  nothing  of.  To  be  so  blest  implies  a  very  wise  and 
powerful  Deity.  To  gain  all  these  things  they  are  eager 
to  learn  about  the  white  man's  God ;  are  willing  to  do 
whatever  is  necessary  to  please  and  propitiate  Him.  Hence 
their  attentiveness  to  the  white  man's  discourse  about  his 
religion.  Naturally  enough  they  were  struck  with  won- 
der at  the  doctrine  of  peace  and  good  will;  a  doctrine  so 
different  from  the  law  of  blood  by  which  the  Indian,  in 
his  natural  state,  lives.  Yet  if  it  is  good  for  the  white 
men,  it  must  be  good  for  him ;  at  all  events  he  is  anxious 
to  try  it. 

That  is  the  course  of  reasoning  by  which  an  Indian  is 
led  to  inquire  into  Christianity.  It  is  a  desire  to  better 
his  physical,  rather  than  his  spiritual  condition ;  for  of  the 
latter  he  has  but  a  very  faint  conception.  He  was  accus- 
tomed to  desire  a  material  Heaven,  such  a  world  beyond 
the  grave,  at.  he  could  only  imagine  from  his  earthly  ex- 
perience. Heaven  was  happiness,  and  happiness  was 
plenty;  thciofore  the  most  a  good  Indian  could  desire 
was  to  go  where  there  should  forevermore  be  plenty. 

Such  was  the  Indian's  view  of  religion,  and  it  coulO  be 
no  other.  Until  the  wants  of  the  body  have  been  sup- 
plied by  civilization,  the  wants  of  the  soul  do  not  develop 
themselves :  and  until  then  the  savage  is  not  prepared 
to  understand  Christianity.  This  is  the  law  of  Nature  and 
of  God.     Primeval  man  was  a  savage ;  and  it  was  little 


1    >'3l 


;rii 


!    n 


186        THE    FIRST    SERMON   IN    TUE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS. 


m 


by  little,  throngh  thousands  of  years,  that  Christ  was  re- 
vealed. P]vcry  child  born,  even  now,  is  a  savage,  and  has 
to  be  taught  civilization  year  after  year,  until  he  arrives 
at  the  possibility  of  comprehending  spiritual  religion.  So 
every  full  grown  barbarian  is  a  clild  in  moral  develop 
ment;  and  to  expect  him  to  comprehend  those  mysteries 
over  which  the  world  has  agonized  for  centuries,  is  to 
commit  the  gravest  error.  Into  this  error  fell  all  the  mis- 
sionaries who  came  to  the  wilds  that  lay  beyond  the  Rocky 
Mountains.  They  undertook  to  teach  religion  first,  and 
more  simple  matters  afterward — building  their  edifice  like 
the  Irishman's  chimney,  by  holding  up  the  top  brick,  and 
putting  the  others  under  it.  Failure  was  the  result  of 
such  a  process,  as  the  record  of  the  Oregon  Missions  suffi- 
ciently proves.     . 

The  reader  will  pardon  this  digression — made  necessary 
by  the  part  which  one  of  the  gentlemen  present  at  tliis 
year's  rendezvous,  was  destined  to  take  in  the  history 
which  we  are  writing.  Shortly  after  the  arrival  of  Messrs. 
Parker  and  Whitman,  rendezvous  broke  up.  A  party,  to 
which  Meek  was  attached,  moved  in  tlie  direction  of  tlie 
Snake  River  head-waters,  the  missionaries  accompanying 
them,  and  after  making  two  camps,  came  on  Saturday  eve 
to  Jackson's  Little  Hole,  a  small  mountain  valley  near  the 
larger  one  commonly  known  as  Jackson's  Hole. 

On  the  following  day  religious  services  were  held  in  the 
Rocky  Mountain  Camp.  A  scene  more  unusual  could 
hardly  have  transpired  than  that  of  a  company  of  trap- 
pers listening  to  the  preaching  of  the  Word  of  God, 
Very  little  pious  reverence  marked  the  countenances  of 
that  wild  and  motley  congregation.  Curiosity,  incredulit)'. 
sarcasm,  or  a  mocking  levity,  were  more  plainly  percepli 
ble  in  the  expression  of  the  men's  faces,  than  either  devo 
tion  or  the  longing  expectancy  of  men  habitually  deprived 


1 


THE    REV.  DK.  WHITMAN. 


187 


of  what  they  once  highly  valued.  The  Indians  alone 
showed  by  their  eager  listening  that  they  desired  to  be- 
come acquainted  with  the  mystery  of  the  "Unknown 
(lod. 

Tlic  Rev.  Samuel  Parker  preached,  and  the  men  were 
;i.s  politely  attentive  as  it  was  in  their  reckless  natures  to 
he,  until,  in  the  midst  of  the  discourse,  a  band  of  buifalo 
apiJOfircd  in  the  valley,  when  the  congregation  incon- 
tinently broke  up,  without  staying  for  a  bchcdiction,  and 
every  man  made  haste  after  his  horse,  gun,  and  rope, 
leaving  ^Ir.  Parker  to  discourse  to  vacant  ground.  i 

The  run  was  both  exciting  and  successful.  About 
twenty  fine  buffaloes  were  killed,  and  the  choice  pieces 
brought  to  camp,  cooked  and  eaten,  amidst  the  merriment, 
mixed  Avith  somel'  "ng  coarser,  of  the  hunters.  On  this 
noisy  rejoicing  Mr  Parker  looked  Avith  a  sober  aspect: 
;ind  following  the  dictates  of  his  religious  feeling,  he  re- 
buked the  sabbath-breakers  quite  severely.  Better  for  his 
influence  among  the  men,  if  he  had  not  done  so,  or  had 
not  eaten  so  heartily  of  the  tender-loin  afterwards,  a  cir- 
cumstance wdiicli  his  irreverent  critics  did  not  fail  to  re- 
mark, to  his  prejudice ;  and  upon  the  principle  that  the 
"partaker  is  as  bad  as  the  thief,"  they  set  down  his  lecture 
on  sabbath-breaking  as  nothing  better  than  pious  humbug. 

Dr.  Marcus  Whitman  was  another  style  of  man.  What- 
ever ho  thought  of  the  wald  ways  of  the  mountain-men 
he  discreetly  kept  to  himself,  preferring  to  teach  by  ex- 
inn{)le  rather  than  precept;  and  ohowing  no  fastidious 
contempt  for  any  sort  of  rough  duty  he  might  be  called 
ui)on  to  perform.  So  aptly  indeed  had  he  turned  his  hand 
to  all  manner  of  camp  service  on  the  journey  to  the  moun- 
tains, that  this  abrogation  of  clerical  dignity  had  become 
a  source  of  solicitude,  not  to  say  disapproval  and  displeas- 
ure on  the  '-  rt  of  his  colleague ;  and  it  was  agreed  be- 


vt  tl 


188 


THE   MISSIONARIES   REXUllN   TO    THE   STATES. 


tween  them  that  the  Doctor  should  return  to  the  states 
vnih  the  St.  Louis  Company,  to  procure  recruits  for  the 
promising  field  of  labor  which  they  saw  before  them, 
while  Mr.  Parker  continued  his  journey  to  the  Columbia 
to  decide  upon  the  location  of  the  missionary  stations. 
The  difference  of  character  of  the  two  men  was  clearly 
illustrated  by  the  results  of  this  understanding.  Parlcer 
went  to  Vancouver,  where  he  was  hospitably  entertained, 
and  where  he  could  in(piire  into  the  workings  of  the  mis- 
sionary system  as  pursued  by  the  Methodist  missionaries. 
His  investigations  not  proving  the  labor  to  his  taste,  he 
sailed  the  following  summer  for  the  Sandwich  Islands,  and 
thence  to  New  York ;  leaving  only  a  brief  note  for  Doctor 
Whitman,  when  he,  with  indefatigable  exertions,  arrived 
that  season  among  the  Nez  Perces  with  a  missionary  com- 
pany, eager  for  the  work  which  they  hoped  to  make  as 
great  as  they  believed  it  to  be  good. 


>•/■  ... 


MEEK    FALLS   INTO    THE    HANDS   OF    CKOWS. 


189 


CHAPTER    XIV. 

From  the  mountains  about  the  head-waters  of  the 
Snake  River,  Meek  returned,  with  Bridger's  brigade  to 
the  Yellowstone  country,  where  he  fell  into  the  hands  of 
the  Crows.     The  story  as  he  relates  it,  is  as  follows: 

"I  war  trapping  on  the  Rocky  Fork  of  the  Yellowstone. 
I  had  been  out  from  camp  five  days ;  and  war  solitary  and 
alone,  when  I  war  discovered  by  a  war  party  of  Crows. 
They  had  the  prairie,  and  I  war  forced  to  run  for  the 
Creek  bottom ;  but  the  beaver  had  throwed  the  water  out 
and  made  dams,  so  that  my  mule  mired  down.  While  I 
war  struggling  in  the  marsh,  the  Indians  came  after  me, 
with  tremendous  yells;  firing  a  random  shot  now  and 
then,  as  they  closed  in  on  me. 

"  When  they  war  within  about  two  rods  of  me,  I  brought 
old  Sail//,  that  is  my  gun,  to  my  face,  ready  to  fire,  and 
then  die;  for  I  knew  it  war  death  this  time,  unless  Provi- 
dence interferec^  tQ-'^save  me :  and  I  didn't  think  Provi- 
dence wo;il(i  do  it.  But  the  head  chief,  when  he  saw  the 
warlike  looks  of  Sally,  called  out  to  me  to  put  down  my 
gun,  and  I  should  live. 

"Well,  I  liked  to  live, — being  then  in  the  prime  of  life; 
and  though  it  hurt  me  powerful,  I  resolved  to  part  with 
Salhj.  I  laid  her  down.  As  I  did  so,  the  chief  picked  her 
lip,  and  one  of  the  braves  sprang  at  me  with  a  spear,  and 
would  have  run  me  through,  but  the  chief  knocked  him 
down  with  the  butt  of  my  gun.  Then  they  led*  me  forth 
to  the  high  plain  on  the  south  side  of  the  stream.     There 


M 


'1i 


190 


QUESTIONED    BY    THE    CHIEF. 


\ : 


they  called  a  halt,  and  I  was  p,iven  in  charge  of  throe  wo- 
men, while  the  warriors  formed  a  ring  to  smoke  and  con- 
sult. This  gave  me  an  op])ortnnity  to  count  them:  they 
numbered  one  hundred  and  eighty-seven  men,  nine  boys, 
and  three  women. 

'"After  a  smoke  of  three  long  hours,  the  chief,  who  war 
named  'The  Bold,'  called  me  in  the  ring,  and  said: 
•    "  '  I  have  known  the  whites  for  a  long  time,  and  I  know 
them   to  be  great  liars,  deserving  death ;  but  if  you  will 
tell  the  truth,  you  shall  live.' 

"Then  I  thought  to  myself,  they  will  fetch  the  truth 
out  of  me,  if  thar  is  any  in  me.  But  his  highness  con- 
tinued : 

" '  Tell  me  whar  are  the  whites  you  belong  to ;  and  what 
is  your  captain's  name.' 

"I  said  'Bridger  is  my  captain's  name;  or,  in  the  Crow 
tongue,  Casapy^''  the  'Blanket  chief  At  this  answer  the 
chief  seemed  lost  in  thought.     At  last  he  asked  me — 

" '  How  many  men  has  he  ?' 

"I  thought  about  telling  the  truth  and  living;  but  I 
said  'forty,'  which  war  a  tremendous  lie;  for  thar  war 
two  hundred  and  forty.     At  this  answer  The  Fold  laughed: 

"'We  will  make  them  poor,' said  he;  'and  you  shall 
live,  but  they  shall  die.' 

"I  thought  to  myself,  'hardly ;'  but  I  said  nothing.  He 
then  asked  me  whar  I  war  to  meet  the  camp,  and  I  told 
him:— and  then  how  many  days  before  the  camp  would 
be  thar ;  which  I  answered  truly,  for  I  wanted  them  to 
find  the  camp. 

-  "It  war  now  late  in  t  le  afternoon,  and  thar  war  a  great 
bustle,  getting  ready  fc  the  march  to  meet  Bridger.  Two 
big  Indians  mounted  my  mule,  but  the  women  made  me 
pack  moccasins.  The  spies  started  first,  and  after  awhile 
the  main  mrty.     Seventy  warriors  traveled  ahead  of  me: 


BRIDGERS   CAMP    DISCOVERED. 


191 


I  ^var  placed  with  the  women  and  boys ;  and  after  lis  the 
balance  of  the  braves.  As  we  traveled  along,  the  women 
would  prod  me  with  sticks,  and  laugh,  and  say  'Masta 
Shecla,'  (which  means  white  man,)  'Masta  sheela  very 
poor  now.'     The  fair  sex  war  very  much  amused. 

"We  traveled  that  way  till  midnight,  the  two  big  bucks 
riding  my  mule,  and  I  packing  moccasins.  Then  we 
camped ;  the  Indians  in  a  ring,  with  me  in  the  centre,  to 
k(>ep  me  safe.  I  didn't  sleep  very  well  that  night.  I'd  a 
heap  ratlier  been  in  some  other  -place. 

"The  next  morning  we  started  on  in  the  same  order  as 
l)efoic :  and  the  squaws  making  fun  of  me  all  day  ;  but  I 
kept  mighty  quiet.  When  we  stopped  to  cook  that  eve- 
ning, I  Avar  set  to  work,  and  war  head  cook,  and  head 
Avaiter  too.  The  third  and  the  fourth  day  it  war  the  same. 
I  felt  pretty  bad  when  we  struck  camp  on  the  last  day:  for 
I  kncAV  we  must  be  coming  near  to  Bridger,  and  that  if 
any  thing  should  go  wrong,  my  life  would  pay  the  forfeit. 

"On  the  afternoon  of  the  fourth  day,  the  spies,  who 
war  in  advance,  looking  out  from  a  high  hill,  made  a  sign 
to  the  main  party.  In  a  moment  all  sat  down.  Directly 
they  got  another  sign,  and  then  they  got  up  and  moved 
on.  I  war  as  well  up  in  Indian  signs  as  they  war ;  and  I 
knew  they' had  discovered  white  men.  What  war  worse, 
I  knew  they  would  soon  discover  that  I  had  been  lying  to 
them.  All  I  had  to  do  then  war  to  trust  to  luck.  Soon  we 
came  to  the  top  of  the  hill,  which  overlooked  the  Yellow- 
stone, from  which  I  could  see  the  plains  below  extending 
as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  and  about  three  miles  off, 
the  camp  of  my  friends.  My  heart  beat  double  quick 
about  that  time  ;  and  I  once  in  a  while  put  my  hand  to 
my  head,  to  feel  if  my  scalp  war  thar. 

"While  I  war  watching  our  camp,  I  discovered  that  the 
hoi&u  guard  had  seen  us,,  for  I  knew  the  sign  he  would 
13  .■^ 


I 


■'in 


192 


SIGNALING    THE    HORSE    GUARD. 


■JK 


make  if  he  discovered  Indians.  I  thought  the  camp  a 
splendid  sight  that  evening.  It  made  a  powerful  show  to 
me,  who  did  not  expect  ever  to  see  it  after  that  day.  And 
it  loar  a  fine  sight  any  how,  from  the  hill  whar  I  stood. 
About  two  hundred  and  fifty  men,  and  women  and  chil- 
dren in  great  numbers,  and  about  a  thousand  horses  and 
mules.  Then  the  beautiful  plain,  and  the  sinking  sun; 
and  the  herds  of  buffalo  that  could  not  be  numbered; 
and  the  cedar  hills,  covered  with  elk, — I  never  saw  so  fine 
a  sight  as  all  that  looked  to  me  then ! 

"When  I  turned  my  eyes  on  that  savage  Crow  band, 
and  saw  the  chief  standing  with  his  hand  on  his  mouth,  lost 
in  amazement ;  and  beheld  the  warriors'  tomahawks  and 
spears  glittering  in  the  sun,  my  heart  war  very  little, 
Directly  the  chief  turned  to  me  with  a  horrible  scowl. 
Said  he : 

"  'I  promised  that  you  should  live  if  you  told  the  truth; 
but  you  have  told  me  a  great  lie.' 

"  Then  the  warriors  gathered  around,  with  their  toma- 
hawks in  their  hands ;  but  I  war  showing  off  very  brave, 
and  kept  my  eyes  fixed  on  the  horse-guard  who  war  ap- 
proaching the  hill  to  drive  in  the  horses.  This  drew  th'' 
attention  of  the  chief,  and  the  warriors  too.  Seeing  the 
the  guard  war  within  about  two  hundred  yards  of  us,  the 
chief  turned  to  me  and  ordered  me  to  tell  him  to  come 
up.  I  pretended  to  do  what  he  said;  but  instead  of  that 
I  howled  out  to  him  to  stay  off,  or  he  would  be  killed; 
and  to  tell  Bridger  to  try  to  treat  with  them,  and  get  me 
away. 

"As  quick  as  he  could  he  ran  to  camp,  and  in  a  few 
minutes  Bridger  appeared,  on  his  large  white  horse.  He 
came  up  to  within  three  hundred  yards  of  us,  and  called 
out  to  me,  asking  who   the   Indians  war.     I  answered 


SUCCESSFUL   STRATEGY — CAPTURE    OF    LITTLE-GUN.      193 


'Crou'S.'  He  then  told  me  to  say  to  the  chief  he  wished 
him  to  send  one  of  his  sub-chiefs  to  smoke  with  him. 

"All  this  time  my  he.art  beat  terribly  hard.  I  don't 
know  now  why  they  didn't  kill  me  at  once ;  but  the  head 
chief  seemed  overcome  with  surprise.  When  I  repeated 
to  him  what  Bridger  said,  he  reflected  a  moment,  and  then 
ordered  the  second  chief,  called  Little-Gun,  to  go  and 
smoke  Avith  Bridger,  But  they  kept  on  preparing  for 
war;  getting  on  their  paint  and  feathers,  arranging  their 
scalp  locks,  selecting  their  arrows,  and  getting  their  am- 
munition ready. 

"While  this  war  going  on,  Little-Gun  had  approached 
to  within  about  a  hundred  yards  of  Bridger;  w  icn,  ac- 
cording to  the  Crow  laws  of  war,  each  war  forced  to  strip 
himself,  and  proceed  the  remaining  distance  in  a  state  of 
nudity,  and  kiss  and  embrace.  While  this  interesting  cere- 
mony war  being  performed,  five  of  Bridger's  men  had 
followed  him,  keeping  in  a  ravine  until  they  got  within 
shooting  distance,  when  they  showed  themselves,  and  cut 
off  the  return  of  Little-Gun,  thus  making  a  prisoner  of 
him.  ''  "      ■   ■  '  •  "         '■'■ 

"If  you  think  my  heart  did  not  jump  up  when  I  saw 
that,  you  think  wrong.  I  knew  it  war  kill  or  cure,  now. 
Every  Indian  snatched  a  weapon,  and  fierce  threats  war 
howled  against  me.  But  all  at  once  about  a  hundred  of 
our  trappers  appeared  on  the  scene.  At  the  same  time 
Bridger  called  to  me,  to  tell  me  to  propose  to  the  chief  to 
exchange  me  for  Little-Gun.  I  explained  to  The  Bold 
what  Bridger  wanted  to  do,  and  he  sullenly  consented : 
for,  he  said,  he  could  not  afford  to  give  a  chief  for  one 
white  dog's  scalp.  I  war  then  allowed  to  go  towards  my 
camp,  and  Liitle-Gun  towards  his;  and  the  rescue  I  hardly 
hoped  for  war  accomplished. 

"In  the  evening  the  chief,  with  forty  of  his  braves,  vis- 


!*■-■>- 


■M 


-  i*«- 


194 


13ESEIGED    BVr    BEARS A   LAZY    TUAPrEll. 


itcd  Bridgcr  and  made  a  treaty  of  tlircc  inontlis.  Thoj' 
said  they  war  formerly  at  war  Avitli  the  wliites ;  but  that 
they  desired  to  be  friendly  with  them  now,  so  that  to- 
gether they  might  fight  the  lUaekfeet,  who  war  every- 
body's enemies.  As  for  ine,  they  returned  me  my  mule, 
gun,  and  beaver  paeks,  and  said  my  name  slumld  bo 
Shiam  Sha.spusia^  for  I  could  out-lie  the  Crows." 

In  December,  Bridgcr's  commnnd  went  into  wintor 
quarters  in  the  bend  of  the  Yellowstone.  Bufl'alo,  elk, 
and  bear  were  in  great  abundance,  all  that  fall  and  winter. 
Before  they  went  to  camp,  Meek,  Kit  Carson,  Hawkins, 
and  Doughty  w^erc  trapping  together  on  the  Yellowstone, 
about  sixty  miles  below.  They  had  made  their  temporary 
camp  in  the  ruins  of  an  old  fort,  the  walls  <jf  which  were 
about  six  feet  high.  One  evening,  after  coming  in  from 
setting  their  traps,  they  discovered  three  large  grizzly 
bears  in  the  river  bottom,  not  more  than  half  a  mile  oil" 
and  Hawkins  went  out  to  shoot  one.  lie  was  successful 
in  killing  one  at  the  first  shot,  when  the  other  two,  taking 
fright,  ran  towards  the  fort.  As  they  came  near  enougii 
to  show  that  they  were  likely  to  invade  camp,  Meek  and 
Carson,  not  caring  to  have  a  bear  fight,  clanbered  up  a 
cotton-wood  tree  close  by,  at  the  same  time  advising 
Doughty  to  do  the  same.  But  Doughty  was  tired,  and 
lazy  besides,  and  concluded  to  take  his  chances  where  lie 
was ;  so  he  rolled  himself  in  his  blanket  and  laid  quite 
still.  The  bears,  on  making  the  fort,  reared  up  on  their 
hind  legs  and  looked  in  as  if  mcdit'\ting  taking  it  for  a 
defence. 

The  sight  of  Doughty  lying  rolled  in  his  blanket,  and 
the  monster  grizzlys  inspecting  the  fort,  caused  the  tw 
trappers  who  were  safely  perched  in  the  cotton-wood  to 
make  merry  at  Doughty's  expense ;  saying  all  the  mirtli- 
provoking  things  they  could,  and  then  advising  him  not 


-'I 


1 


TlIK    DECOY    OF    THE   DELAWARES. 


195 


to  liiuLcli,  Tor  fciir  the  boars  sliould  seize  him.  Poor 
Dounlity,  agoni/iug  l)etwcen  suppressed  laughter  and 
growing  fear,  contrived  to  lie  still  however,  while  the 
iKiirs  gazed  upward  at  the  s})eakers  in  wcjnder,  and  aller- 
iKitely  at  the  suspicious  looking  bundle  inside  the  fort. 
Not  being  able  to  nud^e  out  the  meaning  of  either,  they 
giive  at  last  a  grunt  of  dissatisfaction,  and  ran  off  into  a 
thicket  to  consult  over  these  strange  appearances ;  leaving 
tlic  trappers  to  enjoy  the  incident  as  a  very  good  joke. 
For  a  long  time  after,  Doughty  was  reminded  how  close 
to  the  ground  he  laid,  when  the  grizzlys  paid  their  com- 
pliments to  him.  Such  were  the  every-day  incidents  from 
which  the  nu)un tain-men  contrived  to  derive  their  rude 
jests,  aiul  laughter-provoking  reminiscences. 

A  few  days  after  this  incident,  while  the  same  party 
were  trapping  a  few  miles  farther  down  the  river,  on  their 
wtiy  to  camp,  they  ^ell  in  with  some  Delaware  Indians, 
who  said  they  had  discovered  signs  of  Blackfeet,  and 
wanted  to  borrow  some  horses  to  decoy  them.  T  this 
the  trappers  very  willingly  agreed,  and  they  were  fur- 
nished with  two  horses.  The  Delawares  then  went  to  the 
spot  where  signs  had  been  discovered,  and  tying  the 
horses,  laid  flat  down  on  the  ground  near  them,  concealed 
by  the  grass  or  willows.  They  had  not  long  to  wait  be- 
fore a  Blackfoot  was  seen  stealthily  advancing  through  the 
thicket,  confident  in  the  belief  that  he  should  gain  a  cou- 
ple of  horses  while  their  supposed  owners  were  busy  with 
their  traps. 

But  just  as  he  laid  his  hand  on  the  bridle  of  the  first 
one,  crack  went  the  rifles  of  the  Delawaies,  and  there  was 
one  less  Blackfoot  thief  on  the  scent  after  trappers.  As 
soon  as  they  could,  after  this,  the  party  mounted  and  rode 
to  camp,  not  stopping  by  the  way,  lest  the  main  body  of 
Blackfeet  should  discover  the  deed  and  seek  for  vengeance. 


19G 


THK    IHIIMAELITE    OF    THE    WILDEllNErtB. 


Truly  indeed,  was  the  Blackfoot  the  Ishmaol  of  the  wil 
deriiesH,  whose  hand  was  against  every  man,  and  every 
man's  liand  against  him. 

The  Rocky  Mountain  Company  passed  the  first  part  of 
the  winter  in  peace  and  plenty  in  the  Yellowstone  camp, 
unannoyed  either  by  enemies  or  rivals.  Hunting  buft'alo, 
feeding  their  horses,  playing  games,  and  telling  stories,  oc- 
cupied the  entire  leisure  of  these  months  of  rei)ose.  Not 
only  did  the  mountain-men  recount  their  own  adventures, 
but  when  these  were  exhausted,  those  whose  memories 
served  them  rehearsed  the  tales  they  had  read  in  their 
youth.  Robinson  Crusoe  and  the  Arabian  Nights  Enter- 
tainment, were  read  over  again  by  the  light  of  memory; 
and  even  Bunyan's  Pilgrim's  Progress  was  made  to  recite 
like  a  sensation  novel,  and  was  quite  as  well  enjoyed. 

1836.  In  January,  however,  this  repose  was  broken  in 
upon  by  a  visit  from  the  Blackfeet.  As  their  visitations 
were  never  of  a  friendly  character,  so  then  they  were  not 
bent  upon  pacific  rites  and  ceremonies,  such  as  all  the  rest 
of  the  world  find  pleasure  in,  but  came  in  full  battle  array 
to  try  their  fortunes  in  war  against  the  big  camp  of  the 
whites.  They  had  evidently  made  great  preparation. 
Their  warriors  numbered  eleven  hundred,  got  up  in  the 
top  of  the  Blackfoot  fashions,  and  armed  with  all  manner 
of  savage  and  some  civilized  weapons.  But  Bridger  was 
prepared  for  them,  although  their  numbers  were  so  over- 
whelming. He  built  a  fort,  had  the  animals  corraled,  and 
put  himself  on  the  defensive  in  a  prompt  and  thorough  man- 
ner. This  made  the  Blackfeet  cautious ;  they  too  built 
forts  of  cotton-wood  in  the  shape  of  lodges,  ten  men  to 
each  fort,  and  carried  on  a  skirmishing  fight  for  two  days, 
when  finding  there  was  nothing  to  J)e  gained,  they  de- 
parted, neither  side  having  sustained  much  loss;  the 
whites  losing  only  two  men  by  this  grand  Blackfoot  army. 


MAUCH    TllltOUUU    THE    CUOW    COINTUV 


197 


Soon  after  this  attack  Bridgcr  broke  camp,  nnd  traveled 
ii|)  tliL'  VcllowHtoiio,  through  tlie  Crow  country.  It  was 
wliili!  on  this  inarch  that  (Iniontucken  was  struck  by  a 
Crow,  and  Meek  put  the  whole  camp  in  peril,  by  shooting 
him.  They  passed  on  to  the  Big  Horn  and  Little  Horn 
rivers,  down  through  the  Wind  River  valley  and  through 
the  South  Pass  to  (Jreeu  River. 

While  in  that  country,  there  occurred  the  fight  with  the 
l)iiniiiieks  in  which  Umentucken  was  killed.  A  small  party 
of  Nez  Perces  had  lost  their  horses  by  the  thieving  of  the 
Bannacks.  They  came  into  camp  and  complained  to  the 
whites,  who  promised  them  their  protection,  should  they 
l)e  able  to  recover  their  horses.  Accordingly  the  Ncz  Per- 
ces started  after  the  thieves,  and  by  dogging  their  camp, 
succeeded  in  re-capturing  their  horses  and  getting  back 
to  Bridgcjr's  camp  with  them.  In  order  to  divert  the 
vengeance  of  the  Bannacks  from  themselves,  they  pre- 
sented their  horses  to  the  whites,  aud  a  very  fine  one  to 
Bridger. 

All  went  well  for  a  time.  The  Bannacks  went  on  their 
way  to  hunt  buffalo ;  but  they  treasured  up  their  wrath 
arrainst  the  supposed  white  thieves  who  had  stolen  the 
liorses  which  they  had  come  by  so  honestly.  On  their  re- 
turn from  the  huut,  having  learned  by  spies  that  the  horses 
were  in  the  camp  of  the  whites,  they  prepared  for  war. 
Early  one  morning  they  made  their  appearance  mounted 
and  armed,  and  making  a  dash  at  the  camp,  rode  through 
it  with  the  usual  yells  and  frantic  gestures.  The  attack 
was  entirely  unexpected.  Bridger  stood  in  front  of  his 
lodge,  holding  his  horse  by  a  lasso,  and  t'  ^.  liCad  chief 
rode  over  it,  jerking  it  out  of  his  hand.  At  this  unprece- 
dented insult  to  his  master,  a  negro  named  Jim,  cook  to 
the  Booshways,  seized  a  rifle  and  shot  the  chief  dead.  At 
the  same  timCj  an  airow  shot  at  random  struck  Umen- 


i 


I 


V! 


if 


V  :i 


198 


PUNISHMENT    OF    TilE    BANNACKS. 


tucken  in  the  breast,  and  the  joys  and  sorrows  of  the 
Mountain  Lamb  were  over  forevermore. 

The  killing  of  a  head  chief  always  throws  an  Indian 
war  party  into  confusion,  and  negro  Jim  was  greatly  elated 
at  this  signal  feat  of  his.  The  trappers,  who  were  as 
much  surprised  at  the  suddenness  of  the  assault  as  it  k  in 
the  mountain-man's  nature  to  be,  quickly  recovered  them- 
selves. In  a  few  moments  the  men  were  mounted  and  in 
motion,  and  the  disordered  Baunacks  were  obliged  to  fly 
towards  their  village,  Bridger's  company  pursuing  them. 

All  the  rest  of  that  day  the  trappers  fought  the  Ban- 
nacks,  driving  them  out  of  their  village  and  plundering 
it,  and  forcing  them  to  take  refuge  on  an  island  iu  the 
river.  Even  there  they  were  not  safe,  the  guns  of  the 
mountain-men  picking  them  off,  from  their  stations  on  the 
river  banks.     Umentucken  was  well  avenged  that  day. 

All  night  the  Indians  remained  on  the  island,  where 
sounds  of  wailing  were  heard  continually ;  and  when 
morning  came  one  of  their  old  women  appeared  bearing  the 
pipe  of  peace.  "  You  have  killed  all  our  warriors,"  she 
said;  "do  you  now  want  to  kill  the  women?  If  you 
wish  to  smoke  with  women,  I  have  the  pipe." 

Not  caring  either  to  fight  or  to  smoke  with  so  feeble  a  rep- 
resentative of  the  Bannacks,  the  trappers  withdrew.  But 
it  was  the  last  war  party  that  nation  ever  sent  against  the 
mountain-men ;  though  in  later  times  they  have  by  their 
atrocities  avenged  the  losses  of  that  day. 

While  awaiting,  in  the  Green  River  valley,  the  arrival 
of  the  St.  Louis  Company,  the  Rocky  Mountain  and  North 
American  companies  united ;  after  which  Captain  Sublette 
and  his  brother  returned  no  more  to  the  mountains.  The 
new  firm  was  known  only  as  the  American  Fur  Company, 
the  other  having  dropped  its  title  altogether.  The  object 
of  their  consolidation  was  by  combiiiiug  their  capital 


AN    EXCURSION. 


199 


experience  to  strengthen  their  hands  against  the  Ilndson's 
Bay  Company,  which  now  had  an  establisliment  at  Fort 
Hall,  on  the  Snake  River.  By  this  new  arrangement, 
Brivlger  and  Fontenelle  commanded ;  and  Dripps  was  to 
be  the  traveling  partner  who  was  to  go  to  St.  Louis  for 


goods. 


After  the  conclusion  of  this  agreement,  Dripps,  with  the 
restlessness  of  the  true  mountain-man,  decided  to  set  out, 
with  a  small  party  of  equally  restless  trappers,  always 
eager  to  volunteer  for  any  undertaking  promising  either 
danger  or  diversion,  to  look  for  the  St.  Louis  Company 
which  was  presumed  to  be  somewhere  between  the  Black 
Hills  and  Green  Uiver.  According  to  this  determination 
Dripps,  Meek,  Carson,  Newell,  a  Flathead  chief  named 
Victor,  and  one  or  two  others,  set  o  it  on  the  search  for 
the  expected  company. 

It  happened,  however,  that  a  war  party  of  a  hundred 
Crows  were  out  on  the  trr  il  Ixifore  them,  looking  perhaps 
for  the  same  party,  and  the  trappers  had  not  made  more 
than  one  or  two  camps  before  they  discovered  signs  which 
satisfied  them  of  the  neighborhood  of  an  enemy.  At 
their  next  camp  on  the  Sandy,  Meek  and  Carson,  with  the 
caution  and  vigilance  peculiar  to  them,  kept  their  saddles 
on  their  horses,  and  the  horses  tied  to  themselves  by  a 
long  rope,  so  that  01  the  least  unusual  motion  of  the  ani- 
mals they  should  be  r'^adily  informed  of  the  disturbance. 
Their  i)recaution  was  not  lost.  Just  after  midnight  had 
given  place  to  tne  first  faint  kindling  of  dawn,  their  ears 
were  stunned  by  the  simultaneous  discharge  of  a  hundred 
[,uns,  and  the  usual  furious  din  of  the  war-whoop  and  yell. 
A  stampede  immediately  took  place  of  all  the  horses  ex- 
cepting those  of  Meek  and  Carson.  "  Every  man  for  himself 
and  God  for  u'  all,"  is  the  motto  of  the  mountain-man  in 
case  of  an  Indian  attack  ;  nor  did  our  trappers  forget  it 


200 


INTERCEPTED  BY  CROWS A    SCATTERED  CAMP. 


on  this  occasion.  Quickly  mounting,  they  put  their  horses 
to  their  speed,  which  was  not  checked  until  they  had  left 
the  Sandy  t'xv  behind  them.  Continuing  on  in  the  direc- 
tion of  the  proposed  meeting  with  the  St.  Louis  Company, 
they  made  their  first  camp  on  the  Sweetwater,  where  they 
fell  in  with  Victor,  the  Flathead  chief,  who  had  made  his 
way  on  foot  to  this  place.  One  or  two  others  came  into 
camp  chat  night,  and  the  following  day  this  portion 
of  the  party  traveled  on  in  company  until  within  about 
five  miles  of  Independence  Rock,  when  they  were  once 
more  charged  on  by  the  Indians,  who  surrounded  them  in 
such  a  manner  that  they  were  obliged  to  turn  back  to 
escape.  ^-s-*' 

Again  Meek  and  Carson  made  off,  leaving  their  dis- 
mounted comrades  to  their  owr  best  devices.  Finding 
that  with  so  many  Indians  on  the  trail,  and  only  two  horses, 
there  was  little  hope  of  being  able  to  accomplish  their 
journey,  these  two  lucky  ones  made  all  haste  back  to  camp. 
On  Horse  Creek,  a  few  hours  travel  from  rendezvous,  they 
came  up  wath  Newell,  who  after  losing  his  horse  had  fled 
in  the  direction  of  the  main  camp,  but  becoming  bewil- 
dered had  been  roaming  about  until  he  was  quite  tired 
out,  and  on  the  point  of  giving  up.  But  as  if  the  Creek 
where  he  was  found  meant  to  justify  itself  for  having  so 
inharmonious  a  name,  one  of  their  own  horses,  which  had 
escaped  from  the  Cro<vs  was  found  quietly  grazing  on  its 
banks,  and  the  worn  out  fugitive  at  once  remounted. 
Strange  as  it  may  appear,  not  one  of  the  party  was  killed, 
the  others  returning  to  camp  two  days  later  than  Meek 
and  Carson,  the  worse  for  their  expedition  only  by  the  loss 
of  their  horses,  and  rather  an  unusually  fatigued  and  for- 
lorn aspect. 


THE  APPROACH    OF   MISSIONARIES   ANNOUNCED. 


201      \ 


*ir 


CHAPTER    XV. 


■yAfei^WP-^'M^^'^'^J**^  " 


1836.  While  the  resident  partners  of  the  consolidated 
company  waited  at  the  rendezvous  for  the  arrival  of  the 
supply  trains  from  St.  Louis,  word  came  by  a  messenger 
sent  forward,  that  the  American  Company  under  Fitzpat- 
rick,  bad  reached  Independence  Rock,  and  was  pressing 
forward.  The  messenger  also  brought  the  intelligence 
that  two  other  parties  were  traveling  in  company  with  the 
fur  company ;  that  of  Captain  Stuart,  who  had  been  to 
New  Orleans  to  winter,  and  that  of  Doctor  Whitman,  one 
of  tlie  missionaries  who  had  visited  the  mountains  the  year 
previous.  In  this  latter  party,  it  was  asserted,  there  were 
two  white  ladies. 

This  exhilarating  news  immediately  inspired  some  of  the 
trappers,  foremost  among  whom  was  Meek,  with  a  desire 
to  be  the  first  to  meet  and  greet  the  on-coming  caravan  ; 
and  especially  to  salute  the  two  white  women  who  were 
bold  enough  to  invade  a  mountain  camp.  In  a  very  short 
time  Meek,  with  half-a-dozen  comrades,  and  ten  or  a  dozen 
Xez  Perces,  were  mounted  and  away,  on  their  self-imposed 
errand  of  welcome  ;  the  trappers  because  the}-  were 
"spoiling"  for  a  fresh  excitement;  and  the  Nez  Perces 
because  the  missionaries  were  bringing  them  informntion 
concerning  the  powerful  and  beneficent  Deity  of  ihe  white 
men.  These  latter  also  were  charged  with  a  letter  to 
Doctor  Whitman  from  his  former  associate,  Mr.  Parker. 

On  the  Sweetwater  about  two  days'  travel  from  camp 


m 


kl 


^pw 


202  THE  CARAVAN  WELCOMED  BY  A  PARTY  OF  TRAPPERS. 

the  caravan  of  the  advancing  company  was  discovered, 
and  the  trappers  prepared  to  give  them  a  characteristic 
greeting.  To  prevent  mistakes  in  recognizing  them,  a 
white  flag  was  hoisted  on  one  of  their  guns,  and  the  word 
was  given  to  start.  Tlien  over  the  brow  of  a  hill  they 
made  their  appearance,  riding  with  that  mad  speed  only 
an  Indian  or  a  trapper  can  ride,  yelling,  whooping,  dash- 
ing forward  with  frantic  and  threatening  gestures ;  their 
dress,  noises,  and  motions,  all  so  completely  savage  that 
the  white  men  could  not  have  been  distinguished  from 
the  red.  -■- 

The  first  effect  of  their  onset  was  what  they  probably 
intended.  The  uninitiated  travelers,  including  the  mis- 
sionaries, believing  they  were  about  to  be  attacked  by 
Indians,  prepared  for  defence,  nor  could  be  persuaded  that 
the  preparation  was  unnecessary  until  the  guide  pointed 
out  to  them  the  white  flag  in  advance.  At  the  assurance 
that  the  flag  betokened  friends,  apprehension  was  changed 
to  curiosity  and  intense  interest.  Every  movement  of  the 
wild  brigade  became  fascinating.  On  they  came,  riding 
faster  and  faster,  yelling  louder  and  louder,  and  gesticu- 
lating more  and  more  madly,  until,  as  they  met  and  passed 
the  caravan,  they  discharged  their  guns  in  one  volley  over 
the  heads  of  the  company,  as  a  last  finishmg  feu  dejoie; 
and  suddenly  wheeling  rode  back  to  the  front  as  wildly 
as  they  had  come.  Nor  could  this  first  brief  display  con- 
tent the  crazy  cavalcade.  After  reaching  the  front,  they 
rode  back  and  forth,  and  around  and  around  the  caravan, 
which  had  returned  their  salute,  showing  off  their  feats  of 
horsemanship,  and  the  knowing  tricks  of  their  horses  to- 
gether ;  hardly  stopping  to  exchange  questions  and  an- 
swers, but  seeming  really  intoxicated  with  delight  at  the 
meeting.  What  strange  emotions  filled  the  breasts  of  the 
lady  missionaries,  when  they  beheld  among  whom  their 


CURIOSITY    OF    THE   INDIANS. 


203 


lot  ^^as  cast,  may  now  be  faintly  outlined  by  a  vivid 
imagination,  but  have  never  been,  perhaps  never  could  be 
put  into  words. 

The  caravan  on  leaving  the  settlements  had  consisted 
of  nineteen  laden  carts,  each  drawn  by  two  mules  driven 
taadcni,  and  one  light  wagon,  belonging  to  the  American 
Company ;  two  wagons  with  two  mules  to  each,  belonging  to 
Capt.  Stuart;  and  one  light  two-horse  wagon,  and  one  foiir- 
liorse  freight  wagon,  belonging  to  the  missionaries.  How- 
ever, all  the  wagons  had  been  left  behind  at  Fort  Laramie, 
except  those  of  the  missionaries,  and  one  of  Capt.  Stuart's ; 
so  that  the  three  that  remained  in  the  train  when  it  reached 
the  S\veetwater  were  alone  in  the  enjoyment  of  the  Nez 
Pcrces'  curiosity  concerning  them;  a  curiosity  which  they 
divided  between  them  and  the  domesticated  cows  and 
calves  belonging  to  the  missionaries:  another  proof,  as 
they  considered  it,  of  the  superior  power  of  the  white 
man's  God,  who  could  give  to  the  whites  the  ability  to  tame 
■wild  animals  to  their  uses. 

But  it  was  towards  the  two  missionary  ladies,  Mrs.  Whit- 
man and  Mrs.  Spalding,  that  the  chief  interest  was  directed; 
an  interest  that  was  founded  in  the  Indian  mind  upon  won- 
der, admiration,  and  awe ;  and  in  the  minds  of  the  trappers 
upon  the  powerful  recollections  awakened  by  seeing  in 
their  midst  two  refined  Christian  women,  with  the  complex- 
ion cand  dress  of  their  own  mothers  and  sisters.  United 
to  this  startling  effect  of  memory,  was  respect  for  the  re- 
ligious devotion  which  had  inspired  them  to  undertake  the 
long  and  dangerous  journey  to  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and 
also  a  sentiment  of  pity  for  what  they  knew  only  too  well 
yet  remained  to  be  encountered  by  those  delicate  women 
in  the  prosecution  of  their  duty. 

Mrs.  Whitman,  who  was  in  fine  health,  rode  the  greater 
part  of  the  journey  on  horseback.    She  was  a  large,  stately, 


204 


THE    MISSIONARY    LADIES. 


fair-skinned  woman,  with  blue  eyes  and  light  auburn,  al- 
most golden  hair.  Her  manners  were  at  once  dignified 
and  gracious.  She  was,  both  by  nature  and  education  a 
lady;  and  had  a  lady's  appreciation  of  all  that  was  cour- 
teous and  refined;  yet  not  without  an  clement  of  romance 
and  heroism  in  her  disposition  strong  enough  to  have 
impelled  her  to  undertake  a  missionary's  life  in  the  wil- 
derness. "'  rf 

Mrs.  Spalding  was  a  different  type  of  woman.  Talented, 
and  refined  in  her  nature,  she  was  less  pleasing  in  exterior, 
and  less  attached  to  that  which  was  superficially  pleasing 
in  others.  But  an  indifference  to  outside  appearances  was 
in  her  case  only  a  sign  of  her  absorption  in  *\ie  work  she 
had  taken  in  hand.  She  possessed  the  true  missionaiy 
spirit,  and  the  talent  to  make  it  useful  in  an  eminent  de- 
gree; never  thinking  of  herself,  or  the  impression  she 
made  upon  others;  yet  withal  very  firm  and  capable  of 
command.  Her  health,  which  was  always  rather  delicate, 
had  suffered  much  from  the  fatigue  of  the  journey,  and 
the  constant  diet  of  fi'csh  meat,  and  meat  only,  so  that  she 
was  compelled  at  last  to  abandon  horseback  exercise,  and 
to  keep  almost  entirely  to  the  light  wagon  of  the  mission- 
aries. ■» 

As  might  be  expected,  the  trappers  turned  from  the  con- 
templation of  the  pale,  dark-haired  occupant  of  the  wagon, 
with  all  her  humility  and  gentleness,  to  observe  and 
admire  the  more  striking  figure,  and  more  affably  attractive 
manners  of  Mrs.  Whitman.  Meek,  who  never  lost  an 
opportunity  to  see  and  be  seen,  was  seen  riding  alongside 
Mrs.  Whitman,  answering  her  curious  inquiries,  and  enter- 
taining her  with  stories  of  Blackfeet  battles,  and  encoun- 
ters with  grizzly  bears.  Poor  lady !  could  she  have  looked 
into  the  future  about  which  she  was  then  so  curious,  she 
would  have  turned  back  appalled,  and  have  fled  with  fran- 


PREPARATIONS   IN    THE    INDIAN    VILLAGE. 


205 


tic  fear  to  the  home  of  her  grieving  parents.  How  could 
she  then  behold  in  the  gay  and  boastful  mountaineer, 
whose  peculiarities  of  dress  and  speech  so  much  diverted 
her,  the  very  messenger  who  was  to  bear  to  the  home  of 
her  girlhood  the  sickening  tale  of  her  bloody  sacrifice  to 
savage  superstition  and  revenge  ?  Yet  so  had  fate  de- 
creed it. 

When  the  trappers  and  Nez  Perces  had  slaked  their  thirst 
for  excitement  by  a  few  hours'  travel  in  company  with  the 
Fur  Company's  and  Missionary's  caravan,  they  gave  at 
length  a  parting  display  of  horsemanship,  and  dashed  off 
on  the  return  trail  to  carry  to  camp  the  earliest  news.  It 
was  OP  their  arrival  in  camp  that  the  Nez  Perce  and  Flat- 
head village,  which  had  its  encampment  at  the  rendezvous 
ground  on  Green  River,  began  to  make  preparations  for 
the  reception  of  the  missionaries.  It  was  then  that  Indian 
finery  was  in  requisition !  Then  the  Indian  women  combed 
and  braided  their  long  black  hair,  tying  the  plaits  with 
gay-colored  ribbons,  and  the  Indian  braves  tied  anew 
their  streaming  scalp-locks,  sticking  them  full  of  flaunting 
eagle's  plumes,  and  not  despising  a  bit  of  ribbon  either. 
Paint  was  in  demand  both  for  the  rider  and  his  horse.  Gay 
blankets,  red  and  blue,  buckskin  fringed  shirts,  worked 
with  beads  and  porcupine  quills,  and  handsomely  embroi- 
dered moccasins,  were  eagerly  sought  after.  Guns  were 
cleaned  and  burnished,  and  drums  and  fifes  put  in  tune. 

After  a  day  of  toilsome  preparation  all  was  ready  for 
the  grand  reception  in  the  camp  of  the  Nez  Perces.  Word 
was  at  length  given  that  the  caravan  was  in  sight.  There 
was  a  rush  for  horses,  and  in  a  few  moments  the  Indians 
were  mounted  and  in  line,  ready  to  charge  on  the  advanc- 
ing caravan.  When  the  command  of  the  chiefs  was  given 
to  start,  a  simulta,neous  chorus  of  yells  and  whoops  burst 
forth,  accompanied  by  the  deafening  din  of  the  war-drum, 


:j 


!        II 


206 


ENTHUSIASTIC    RECEPTION. 


the  discharge  of  fire-arms,  and  the  chatter  of  the  whole 
cavalcade,  which  was  at  once  in  a  mad  gallop  toward  the 
on-coming  train.  Nor  did  the  yelling,  whooping,  drum- 
ming, and  firing  cease  until  within  a  few  yards  of  the 
train. 

All  this  demoniac  hub-bub  was  highly  complimentary 
toward  those  for  whom  it  was  intended ;  but  an  unfortu- 
nate ignorance  of  Indian  customs  caused  the  missionaries 
to  fail  in  appreciating  the  honor  intended  them.  Instead 
of  trying  to  reciprocate  the  noise  by  an  attempt  at  imitat- 
ing it,  the  missionary  camp  was  alarmed  at  the  first  burst 
and  at  once  began  to  drive  in  their  cattle  and  prepare  for 
an  attack.  As  the  missionary  party  was  in  the  rear  of  the 
train  they  succeeded  in  getting  together  their  loose  stock 
before  the  Nez  Perces  had  an  opportunity  of  making  them- 
selves known,  so  that  the  leaders  of  the  Fur  Company,  and 
Captain  Stuart,  had  the  pleasure  of  a  hearty  laugh  at  their 
expense,  for  the  fright  they  had  received. 

A  general  shaking  of  hands  followed  the  abatement  of 
the  first  surprise,  the  Indian  women  saluting  Mrs.  Whitman 
and  Mrs.  Spalding  with  a  kiss,  and  the  missionaries  were 
escorted  to  their  camping  ground  near  the  Nez  Perce  en- 
campment. Here  the  whole  village  again  formed  in  line, 
and  a  more  formal  introduction  of  the  missionaries  took 
place,  after  which  they  were  permitted  to  go  into  camp. 

When  the  intention  of  the  Indians  became  known,  Dr. 
Whitman,  who  was  the  leader  of  the  missionary  party,  was 
boyishly  delighted  with  the  reception  which  had  been 
given  him.  His  frank,  hearty,  hopeful  nature  augured 
much  good  from  the  enthusiasm  of  the  Indians.  If  his 
estimation  of  the  native  virtues  of  the  savages  was  much 
too  high,  he  suffered  with  those  whom  he  caused  to  suifer 
for  his  belief,  in  the  years  which  followed.  Peace  to  the 
ashes  of  a  good  man !     Aud  honor  to  his  associates,  whose 


li 


f 


MR.    J^M)    MRS.    SPALULVG — MU.    GHAY. 


207 


hearts  -were  in  tho  cause  they  had  iindortakon  of  Christian- 
ixinu:  tho  Iiulians.  Two  of  them  still  live — one  of  whom, 
Mr,  Spalding,  has  conscientiously  labored  and  deeply  suf- 
fered for  the  faith.  Mr.  Gray,  who  was  an  unmari-ied  man, 
retnrnod  the  following  year  to  the  States,  for  a  wife,  and 
settled  for  a  time  among  the  Indians,  but  finally  abandoned 
the  missionary  service,  and  removed  to  the  Wallamet  val- 
ley. These  five  persons  constituted  the  entire  force  of 
teaehors  Avho  could  be  induced  at  that  time  to  devote 
tlieir  lives  to  the  instruction  of  the  savages  in  the  neigh- 
horliood  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

The  trappers,  and  gentlemen  of  the  Fur  Company,  and 
Captain  Stuart,  had  been  passive  but  interested  s])ectators 
of  the  scene  between  the  Indians  and  the  missionaries. 
When  the  excitement  had  somewhat  subsided,  and  the 
various  camps  had  become  settled  in  tlieir  places,  the  tents 
of  the  white  ladies  were  beseiged  with  visitors,  both  civil- 
ized and  savage.  These  ladies,  who  were  making  an  en- 
deavor to  acquire  a  knowledge  of  the  Nez  Perce  tongue 
in  order  to  commence  their  instructions  in  the  language 
of  the  natives,  could  have  made  very  little  progress,  had 
their  purpose  been  less  strong  than  it  was.  Mrs.  Spalding 
perhaps  succeeded  better  than  Mrs.  Whitman  in  the  diffi- 
cult study  of  the  Indian  dialect.  She  seemed  to  attract 
the  natives  about  her  by  the  ease  and  kindness  of  her 
luaiiiicr,  especially  the  native  women,  who,  seeing  she  was 
an  invalid,  clung  to  her  rather  than  to  her  more  lofty  and 
self-assorting  associate. 

On  the  contrary,  the  leaders  of  the  American  Fur  Com- 
pany, Captain  Wyeth  and  Captain  Stuart,  paid  Mrs.  Whit- 
man the  most  marked  and  courteous  attentions.  She  shone 
the  bright  particular  star  of  that  Rocky  Mountain  encam  p- 
m(;nt,  softening  the  hearts  and  the  manners  of  all  who 
came  within  her  womanly  influence.  Not  a  gentlcmau 
14 


Hi 


'^ 


208       WOMANLY  INFLUENCES  IN  THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS. 


umoiig  tlicm  but  felt  her  siltMit  eommaiul  upon  him  to  be 
his  better  sell'  wliile  she  rciiuiined  in  his  vieinity ;  not  a 
trapper  or  ciunp-kceper  but  respected  the  presence  of 
womanliood  and  piety.  But  while  the  leaders  paid  court 
to  her,  the  bashful  trappers  contented  themselves  with 
promenading  before  her  tent.  Should  they  succeed  in 
catching  her  eye,  they  never  failed  to  touch  their  beaver- 
skin  ca[)s  in  their  most  studiously  graceful  manner,  though 
that  should  prove  so  dubious  as  to  bring  a  mischievous 
smile  to  the  blue  eyes  of  the  observant  lady. 

But  our  friend  Joe  Meek  did  not  belong  by  nature  to 
the  bashi'ul  brigade.  He  was  not  content  Avith  disporting 
himself  in  his  best  trapper's  toggery  in  front  of  a  lady  s 
tent.  lie  became  a  not  infrequent  visitor,  and  amused 
Mrs.  Whitman  with  the  best  of  his  mountain  adventures, 
related  in  his  soft,  slow,  yet  smooth  and  firm  utterance, 
and  with  many  a  merry  twinkle  of  his  mirthful  dark  eyes. 
In  more  serious  moments  he  spoke  to  her  of  the  future, 
and  of  his  determination,  sometime,  to  "settle  down.' 
When  she  inquired  if  he  liad  fixed  upon  any  spot  which 
in  his  imagination  he  could  regard  as  "home"  he  replied 
that  he  could  not  content  himself  to  return  to  civilized  life, 
but  thought  that  when  he  gave  up  "bar  fighting  and  In- 
jun fighting"  he  should  go  down  to  the  Wallamet  valley 
and  see  what  sort  of  life  he  c  mid  make  of  it  there.  How 
he  lived  up  to  th!s  determination  will  be  seen  hereafter. 

The  missionaries  remained  at  the  rendezvous  long  enough 
to  recruit  their  own  strength  and  that  of  their  stock,  and 
to  restore  to  something  like  health  the  invalid  Mrs.  Spald- 
ing, who,  on  changing  her  diet  to  dried  meat,  which  the 
resident  partners  were  able  to  supply  her,  commenced  rap- 
idly to  improve.  Letters  were  written  and  given  to  Capt 
Wyeth  to  carry  home  to  the  States.  The  Captain  had 
completed  his  sale  of  Fort  ITall  and  the  goods  it  contained 


1  i 


S 


TIIK    MISSTOXAUIKS    RKNEW    TIIKIU    JOURNEY. 


200' 


lollic  Hudson's  Bay  Company  only  a  sliort  time  provioiis, 
and  was  now  about  to  abandon  tlui  effort  to  establisli  any 
riitorprise  cither  on  the  Cohimbia,  or  in  tlie  Itocky  Alonn- 
tiiius.  He  had,  liowevcr,  executed  his  threat  of  the  year 
previous,  and  punislied  the  bad  faith  of  the  Kocky  Moun- 
tain Company  by  placing  them  in  direct  competition  with 
ihc  Hudson's  Bay  Company. 

Tlio  missionaries  now  prepared  for  their  journey  to  the 
Columbia  River.  According  to  the  advice  of  the  moun- 
tain-men the  heaviest  wagon  was  left  at  the  rendezvous, 
together  with  every  heavy  article  that  could  be  dispensed 
with.  But  Dr.  Whitman  refused  to  leave  the  light  wagon, 
although  assured  he  would  never  be  able  to  get  it  to  the 
Columbia,  nor  even  to  the  Snake  River.  The  good  Doc- 
tor had  an  immense  fund  of  determination  when  there  was 
an  object  to  be  gained  or  a  principle  involved.  The  only 
per.sons  Avho  did  not  oppose  wagon  transportation  were 
the  Indians.  They  sympathised  with  his  determination, 
and  gave  him  their  assistance.  The  evidences  of  a  differ- 
ent and  higher  civilization  than  they  had  ever  seen  were 
held  in  great  reverence  by  them.  The  wagons,  the  do- 
mestic cattle,  especially  the  cows  and  calves,  were  always 
objects  of  great  interest  with  them.  Therefore  they  freely 
gave  their  assistance,  and  a  sufficient  number  remained 
behind  to  hel])  tlie  Doctor,  while  the  main  party  of  both 
missionaries  and  Indians,  having  bidden  the  Fur  Company 
and  others  farewell,  proceeded  to  join  the  camp  of  two 
Ilndson's  Bay  traders  a  few  miles  on  their  way. 

The  two  traders,  whose  camp  they  now  joined,  were 
named  McLeod  and  McKay.  The  latter,  Thomas  McKay, 
was  the  half-breed  son  of  that  unfortunate  McKav  in  Mr. 
Aster's  service,  who  perished  on  board  the  Tonquin^  as  re- 
lated in  Irving's  Astoria.  He  was  one  of  the  bravest 
and  most  skillful  partisans  in  the  employ  of  the  Hudson's 


i- 


!il^ 


210 


TIIK    CAMP    OF    TllK    IHDtlUN  S    1!AV    TllADKHH. 


Bay  Company.  McLcod  liad  mot  tlio  missionaries  at  the 
Amoricaii  rciidozvoiis  and  invited  tluMU  to  travel  in  his 
company;  an  oiler  wliich  they  were  glad  to  aecept,  as  it 
secured  tluMu  ample  protection  and  other  more  triflinir 
benefits,  besides  some  society  other  than  the  Indians. 

By  dint  of  great  i)orseverance,  Doctor  Whitman  con- 
trived to  keep  up  Avitli  the  camp  day  after  day,  though 
often  coming  in  very  late  and  very  weary,  until  the  party 
arrived  at  Fort  Hall.  At  the  fort  the  l)aggage  was  again 
reduced  as  much  as  possible  ;  and  Doctor  Whitman  was 
compelled  by  the  desertion  of  his  teamster  to  take  off  two 
wheels  of  his  wagon  and  transform  it  into  a  cart  wliicli 
could  be  more  easily  propelled  in  diOicult  places.  With 
this  he  proceeded  as  far  as  the  Boise  River  where  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company  had  a  small  fort  or  trading-post; 
but  here  again  he  was  so  strongly  urged  to  relinquish  the 
idea  of  taking  his  wagon  to  the  Columbia,  that  after  much 
discussion  he  consented  to  leave  it  at  Fort  Boise  until 
some  future  time  when  unencumbered  by  goods  or  pas- 
sengers he  mighi  :^e  ■  urn  for  it. 

Arrived  at  the  cios^sing  of  the  Snake  River,  Mrs.  Whit- 
man and  Mrs.  Spaldin  x  were  treated  to  a  new  mode  of  fer- 
riage, which  even  ni  their  varied  experience  they  had 
never  before  met  with.  This  new  ferry  was  nothing  more 
or  less  than  a  raft  made  of  bundles  of  bulrushes  woven 
together  by  grass  ropes.  Upon  this  frail  flat-boat  the 
passengers  were  obliged  to  stretch  themselves  at  length 
while  an  Indian  swam  across  and  drew  it  after  him  by  a 
rope.  As  the  waters  of  the  Snake  River  are  rapid  and 
often  "  dancing  mad,"  it  is  easy  to  conjecture  that  the 
ladies  were  ill  at  ease  on  their  bulrush  ferry. 

On  went  the  party  from  the  Snake  River  through  the 
Grand  Ronde  to  the  Blue  Mountains.  The  crossing  here 
was  somewhat  difficult  but  accomplished  in  safety.    The 


THE    MISSIONAIUKH     LAND    OF    rUOMlSK. 


211 


descent  from  tlie  Blue  ^roiintiiiiis  on  the  west  sitlo  jfnvG 
tlie  missionaries  their  first  view  of  the  country  they  lnui 
come  to  ])Ossess,  and  to  civilize  ami  Christianize.  That 
view  was  beautiful  and  grand — as  goodly  a  [)r()S|)eet  as 
loiijj;iiig  eyes  ever  beheld  this  side;  of  Canaan.  Hcfoi-e 
tlieia  lay  a  country  .s])read  out  like  a  map,  with  the  wind- 
ings of  its  rivers  nmrked  by  fringes  of  trees,  and  its  bound- 
nries  li.xed  by  mountain  ranges  above  which  towered  the 
snowy  peaks  of  ^,    ■  -;  ,k;,~-,  . 

Mt.  ih)od,  Mt. 
Adiuns,  and  Mt. 
Riiinier.  Far 
iiway  could  be 
traced  the 
course  of  the 
Cohnnbia ;  and 
overall  themag- 
iiilieeiit  scene 
glowed  the  red 
rays  of  sunset, 
tinging  the  dis- 
tant blue  of  the 
mountains  until 
they  seemed 
shrouded  in  a 
veil  of  violet 
mist.     Tt   Avere 

not  strange  that 

with  the  r(»con-  descending  the  blue  mountains. 

tion  given  them  by  the  Indians,  and  with  this  bird's-eye 
view  of  their  adopted  country,  the  hearts  of  the  missiona- 
ries beat  high  with  hope. 

The  descent  from  the  Blue  Mountains  brought  the  party 
out  on  the  Umatilla  River,  where  they  camped,  Mr.  McLeod 


'M. 


212 


A   VISIT    TO    FORT    VANCOUVER — KIND    RECEPTION. 


!>' 


parting  company  with  tliem  at  this  place  to  hasten  for- 
ward to  Fort  Walla- Walla,  and  prepare  for  their  recep- 
tion. After  two  more  days  of  slow  and  toilsome  travel 
with  cattle  whose  feet  were  cut  and  sore  from  the  sharp 
rocks  of  the  mountains,  the  company  arrived  safely  at 
Walla- Walla  fort,  on  the  third  of  September.  Here 
they  found  Mr.  McLeod,  and  Mr.  Panbram  who  had  charge 
of  that  post. 

]\Ir.  Panbram  received  the  missionary  party  with  every 
toker.  of  respect,  and  of  pleasure  at  seeing  ladies  among 
therj.  The  kindest  attentions  were  lavished  upon  them 
from  the  first  moment  of  their  arrival,  when  the  ladies 
were  lifted  from  their  horses,  to  the  time  of  their  depar- 
ture ;  the  apartments  belonging  to  the  fort  being  assigned 
to  them,  and  all  that  the  place  aiforded  of  comfortable 
living  placed  at  their  disposal.  Here,  for  the  first  time  in 
several  months,  they  enjoyed  the  luxury  of  bread — a  favor 
for  which  the  suffering  Mrs.  Spalding  was  especially  grate- 
ful. 

At  Walla- Walla  the  missionaries  were  informed  that 
they  were  expected  to  visit  Vancouver,  the  head-quarters 
of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  on  the  Lower  Columbia, 
After  resting  for  two  days,  it  was  determined  to  make  this 
visit  before  selecting  places  for  mission  work  among  the 
Indians.  Accordingly  the  party  embarked  in  the  compa- 
ny's boats,  for  the  voyage  down  the  Columbia,  which 
occupied  six  days,  owing  to  strong  head  winds  which  were 
encountered  at  a  point  on  the  LoTv'cr  Columbia,  called 
Cape  Horn.  They  arrived  safely  on  the  eleventh  of  Sep- 
tember, at  Vancouver,  where  they  were  again  received 
with  the  warmest  hospitality  by  the  Governor,  Dr.  John 
McLaughlin,  and  his  associates.  The  change  from  the 
privations  of  wilderness  life  to  the  luxuries  of  Fort  Van 
couver  was  very  great  indeed,  and  two  wov^ks  passed  rap- 


ii 


SELECTION    OF    MISSIONARY    STATIONS. 


213 


idlv  iway  ill  the  enjoyment  of  refined  society,   and  all 
the  oiher  elegancies  of  the  highest  civilization. 

At  Uie  enl  of  two  weeks,  Dr.  Whitman,  Mr.  Spalding, 
and  ^^r.  Gray  returned  to  the  Upper  Columbia,  leaving 
the  ladies  at  Fort  Vancouver  while  they  determined  upon 
their  several  locations  in  the  Indian  country.  After  an 
absence  of  several  weeks  they  returntid,  having  made  their 
selections,  and  on  the  thi^'d  day  of  November  the  ladies 
once  more  embarked  to  ascend  the  Columbia,  to  take  up 
their  residence  in  Indian  wigwams  while  their  husbands 
prepared  rude  dwellings  by  the  assistance  of  the  natives. 
The  spot  fixed  upon  by  Dr.  Whit:'^an  for  his  mission  was 
on  the  Walla- Walla  River  about  thirty  miles  from  the  fort 
of  that  name.  It  was  called  Waiilatpuj  and  the  tribe 
chosen  for  his  pupils  were  the  Cayuses,  a  hardy,  active, 
intelligent  race,  rich  in  horses  and  pasture  lands. 

Mr.  Spalding  selected  a  home  on  the  Clearwater  River, 
among  the  Nez  Perces,  of  whom  we  already  know  so 
much.  His  mission  was  called  Lapivai.  Mr.  Gr.iy  went 
among  the  Flatheads,  an  equally  friendly  tribe  ;  and  here 
\vc  shall  leave  the  missionaries,  to  return  to  the  Rocky 
Mountains  and  the  life  of  the  hunter  and  trapper.  At  a 
futnre  date  we  shall  fall  in  once  more  with  these  devoted 
people  and  learn  whac  success  attended  their  efforts  to 
Christianize  the  Indians. 


i 


M 


^'   ■'It 
!  am 


'^M 


\-       -"I 


't 

'■   ^  m§k 

rr 

1 

'           ■  1 

'a 

1 

• 

214 


THE    DEN   OF    RATTLESNAKES. 


'  "Mi] 


).. 


CHAPTER    XVI. 


183o,  The  company  of  men  who  went  north  'ir*-!  ■■■ 
under  Bridger  and  Fontenclle,  numbered  nearly  three 
hundred.  Rendezvous  with  all  its  varied  excitemei.t;;; 
being"  over,  this  important  brigade  commenced  its  march. 
According  to  custom,  the  trappers  commenced  business 
ou  the  head-waters  of  various  rivers^  fullowing  them  down 
as  the  early  frosts  of  the  mountains  forced  them  to  do, 
until  finally  they  wintered  in  the  plains,  at  the  most 
ftivored  spots  they  could  find  in  which  to  subsist  them- 
selves and  animals. 

From  Green  River,  Meek  proceeded  with  Bridger's  com- 
mand to  LeAvis  River,  Salt  River,  and  other  tributaries  of 
the  Snake,  and  camped  with  them  in  Pierre's  Hole,  that 
favorite  mountain  valley  which  every  yenr  was  visited  by 
the  dilTerent  fur  companies. 

Pie?Te's  Hole,  notwithstanding  its  beauties,  had  some  re- 
pulsive features,  or  rather  perhaps  one  repulsive  feature, 
which  was,  its  great  numbers  of  rattlesnakes.  Meek  relates 
that  being  once  caught  in  a  very  violent  thi  >r'r  storm, 
he  dismounted,  and  holding  his  horse,  u  fine  c.j,  by  the 
bridle,  himself  took  shelter  under  a  narrow  shelf  of  rock 
projecting  from  a  precipitous  blull".  Directly  he  observed 
an  enormous  rattlesnake  hastening  close  by  him  to  its  den 
in  the  mountain.  Congratulating  hin:seij  '  i.  his  snake- 
ship's  haste  to  get  out  of  the  storm  and  !'..s  vicinity,  he 
had  only  time  to  have  one  rejoicing  thought  when  two  or 


-r«r 


THE    OLD    FRENCHMAN. 


215 


)le,  that     .1; 
ted  by 


ome  re- 

cature, 

relates 

storm, 

by  tlio 

of  roc; 

jsorved 

its  del) 

snake- 

lity,  be 

two  01" 


m 


t1ii-ec  others  follow  id  the  trail  of  the  first  one.  Thev  were 
scekiiig  the  same  rocky  den,  of  whose  proximity  M(>ek 
now  felt  uncomfortably  assured.  Before  these  were  out 
of  sight,  there  came  instead  of  twos  and  threes,  tens  and 
twenties,  and  then  hundreds,  and  finally  Meek  believjs 
tliousands,  the  ground  being  literally  alive  with  them. 
Not  daring  to  stir  after  he  discovered  the  nature  of  his 
situation,  he  was  obliged  to  remain  and  endure  the  dis- 
gusting anrl  frightful  scone,  while  he  exerted  himself  to 
keep  bis  horse  quiet,  lest  the  reptiles  should  attack  him. 
By  and  by,  when  there  were  no  more  to  come,  but  all 
were  safe  in  their  holes  in  the  rock.  Meek  hastily  mounted 
and  galloped  in  the  fiice  of  the  tempest  in  preference  to 
remaining  longer  in  so  unpleasant  a  neighborhood. 

There  Avas  an  old  Frenchman  among  the  trappers  who 
used  to  charm  rattlesnakes,  and  handling  them  freely, 
place  them  in  his  bosom,  or  allow  them  to  wind  about  his 
arras,  several  at  a  time,  their  flat  heads  extending  in  all 
I'ircctions,  and  their  bodies  waving  in  the  air,  in  the  most 
':  ;aky  and  nerve-shaking  nianner,   to  the  infinite  disgust 

'    '11  the  camp,  and  of  Hawkins  and  Meek  in  particular. 

br'  kins  oi'teii  became  so  nervous  that  he  threatened  to 
shoot  the  Frenchman  on  the  ir.stant,  if  he  did  not  desist ; 
and  great  was  the  dislike  he  entertained  for  what  he  term- 
ed the  "    infernal  old  wizard." 

It  was  often  the  case  in  th,;  mountains  and  on  the  plains 
that  the  camp  was  troubled  with  rattlesnakes,  so  that 
each  man  on  laying  down  to  sleep  found  it  necessary  to 
encivc'ic  his  bed  with  a  hair  rope,  thus  effectually  fencing 
out  the  reptiles,  which  are  too  fastidious  and  sensitive  of 
touch  to  crawl  over  a  hair  rope.  But  for  this  precaution, 
the  trapper  must  often  have  shared  his  blanket  couch 
with  this  foe  to  the  "  seed  of  the  woman,"  who  being 
asleep  would  have  neglected  to  "  crush  his  head,"  recciv- 


216 


THE    PRAIRIE    DOG    AND    HIS    TENANTS. 


ing  instead  the  serpent's  fang  in  "his  heel,"  if  not  in  some 
nol)ler  portion  of  his  body. 

There  is  a  common  belief  abroad  that  the  prairie  clog 
liarl)()rs  the  rattlesnake,  and  the  owl  also,  in  his  subterra- 
nean house,  in  a  more  or  less  friendly  manner.  Meek, 
liov,  ^ver,  who  has  had  many  opportunities  of  observing 
the  Lj  >f  these  three  ill-assorted  denizens  of  a  comraon 

abode,  ^  .s  it  as  his  opinion  that  the  prairie  dog  consents 
to  the  invasion  of  his  premises  alone  through  his  inability 
to  prevent  it.  As  these  prairie  dog  villages  are  always 
found  on  the  naked  prairies,  where  there  is  neither  rocky 
den  for  the  rattlesnake,  nor  shade  for  the  blinking  eyes  of 
the  owl,  these  two  idle  and  impudent  foreigners,  availing 
themselves  of  the  labors  of  the  industrious  little  animal 
which  builds  itself  a  cool  shelter  from  the  sun,  and  a  safe 
one  from  the  storm,  whenever  their  own  necessities  drive 
them  to  seek  refuge  from  either  sun  or  storm,  enter  unin- 
vited and  take  possession.  It  is  probable  also,  that  so  far 
from  being  a  welcome  guest,  the  rattlesnake  occasionally 
gorges  himself  with  a  young  prairie-dog,  when  other  game 
is  not  conveniently  nigh,  or  that  the  owl  lies  in  wait  at  the 
door  of  its  borrowed-without-leave  domicile,  and  succeeds 
in  nabbing  a  careless  field-mouse  more  easily  than  it  could 
catch  the  same  game  by  seeking  it  as  an  honest  owl  should 
do.  The  owl  and  the  rattlesnake  are  like  the  Sioux  when 
they  go  on  a  visit  to  the  Oniahas — the  visit  being  always 
timed  so  as  to  be  identical  in  date  with  that  of  the  Gov- 
ernment Agents  who  are  distributing  food  and  clothing. 
They  arc  very  good  friends  for  the  nonce,  the  poor  Oraa- 
has  not  daring  to  be  otherwise  for  fear  of  the  ready  ven- 
geance on  the  next  summer's  buffiilo  hunt ;  therefore  they 
conceal  iheir  grimaces  and  let  the  Sioux  eat  them  up ;  and 
when  summer  comes  get  massacred  on  their  builalo  hunt, 
all  the  same. 


ii 


IP 


THE   BLACKFEET    ATTACKED   IN    THEIll    CAMP. 


217 


r.ut  to  return  to  our  brigade.  About  the  last  of  October 
Bridii'c.'r's  company  moved  down  on  to  the  Yellowstone  by 
a  circuitous  route  through  the  North  Pass,  now  known  as 
Hell  Gate  Pass,  to  Judith  River,  Mussel  Shell  River,  Cross 
Creeks  of  the  Yellowstone,  Three  Forks  of  Missouri,  Mis- 
souri Lake,  Beaver  Head  country.  Big  Horn  River,  and 
thence  east  again,  and  north  again  to  the  wintering  ground 
iu  the  great  bend  of  the  Yellowstone. 

The  company  had  not  proceeded  far  in  the  Blackfeet 
country,  between  Hell  Gate  Pass  and  the  Yellowstone, 
before  they  were  attacked  by  the  Blackfeet.  On  arriving 
at  the  Yellowstone  they  discovered  a  considerable  encamp- 
ment of  the  enemy  on  an  island  or  bar  in  the  river,  and 
proceeded  to  open  hostilities  before  the  Indians  should 
have  discovered  them.  Making  little  forts  of  sticks  or 
l)uslies,  each  man  advanced  cautiously  to  the  bank  over- 
looking the  island,  pushing  his  leafy  fort  before  him  as  he 
crept  silently  nearer,  until  a  position  was  reached  whence 
firing  could  commence  witli  effect.  The  first  intimation 
the  luckless  savages  had  of  the  neighborhood  of  the  whites 
was  a  volley  of  shots  discharged  into  their  camp,  killing 
several  of  their  number.  But  as  this  was  their  own  mode 
of  attack,  no  reflections  were  likely  to  be  wasted  upon  the 
unfairness  of  the  assault;  quickly  springing  to  their  arms 
the  firing  was  returned,  and  for  several  hours  was  kept  up 
on  both  sides.  At  night  the  Indians  stole  off,  having  lost 
nearly  thirty  killed;  nor  did  the  trappers  escape  quite  un- 
hurt, three  being  killed  and  a  few  others  wounded. 

Since  men  were  of  such  value  to  the  fur  companies,  it 
■would  seem  strange  that  they  should  deliberately  enter 
upon  an  Indian  fight  before  being  attacked.  But  unfortu- 
nate as  these  encounters  really  were,  :hey  knew  of  no 
other  policy  to  be  pursued.  They,  (the  American  Com- 
panies,) were  not  resident,  with  a  long  acquaintance,  and 


•  I 


f<4' 


1 1 


!   I 
I 


218 


THE    TRAPPERS     POLICY    OF    WAR. 


settled  policy,  such  as  rendered  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany so  secure  amongst  the  savages.  They  knew  that 
among  these  unfriendly  Indians,  not  to  attack  was  to  bo 
attacked,  and  consequently  little  time  was  ever  given  for 
an  Indian  to  discover  his  vicinity  to  a  trapper.  The  trap- 
per's shot  informed  him  of  that,  and  afterwards  the  race 
was  to  the  swift,  and  the  battle  to  the  strong.  Besides 
this  acknowledged  necessity  for  fighting  whenever  and 
wherever  Indians  were  met  with  in  the  Blackfeet  and  Crow 
countries,  almost  every  trapper  had  some  private  injury  to 
avenge — some  theft,  or  wound,  or  imprisonment,  or  at  the 
very  least,  some  terrible  fright  sustained  at  the  hands  of 
the  universal  foe.  Therefore  there  was  no  reluctance  to 
shoot  into  an  Indian  camp,  provided  the  position  of  the 
man  shooting  was  a  safe  one,  or  more  defensible  than  that 
of  the  win  shot  at.  Add  to  this  that  there  was  no  law  in 
the  mountains,  only  license,  it  is  easy  to  conjecture  that 
might  would  have  prevailed  over  right  with  far  less  incen- 
tive to  the  exercise  of  savage  practices  tlian  actually  did 
exist.  Many  a  trapper  undoubtedly  shot  his  Indian  "for 
the  fun  of  it,"  feeling  that  it  was  much  better  to  do  so  than 
run  the  risk  of  being  shot  at  for  no  better  reason.  Of  this 
class  of  reasoners,  it  must  be  admitted.  Meek  was  one. 
Indian-fighting,  like  bear -fighting,  had  come  to  be  a  sort 
of  pastime,  in  which  he  was  proud  to  be  known  as  highly 
accomplished.  Having  so  many  opportunities  for  the  dis- 
play of  game  qualities  in  encounters  with  these  two  by-no- 
means-to-be  despised  foes  of  the  trapper,  it  was  not  often 
that  they  quarreled  among  themselves  after  the  grand  frolic 
of  the  rendezvous  was  over. 

It  happened,  however,  during  this  autumn,  that  while 
the  main  camp  was  in  the  valley  of  the  Yellowstone,  a 
party  of  eight  trappers,  including  Meek  and  a  comrade 
named  Stanberry,  were  trapping  together  on  the  Mussel 


aj  Com- 
lew  that 
t^as  to  be 
^iven  for 
Che  trap- 
the  race 
Besides 
3ver  and 
md  Crow 
injury  to 
or  at  the 
hands  of 
ctance  to 
Qn  of  the 
than  that 
no  law  in 
ture  that 
ess  incen- 
;ually  did 
lian  "for 
.0  so  than 

Of  this 

was  one. 

je  a  sort 

as  highly 

the  dis- 
,vo  bv-no- 
not  often 
and  frolic 

at  while 

wstone,  a 

comrade 

e  Mussel 


4 


r... 


''i; ' 


A   DUEL    AVERTED, 


219 


Shell,  wlioii  the  question  as  to  Avliicli  was  the  bravest  man 
rrot  istiirtod  between  them,  and  at  length,  in  the  heat  of 
controversy,  assumed  such  importance  that  it  was  agreed 
to  settle  tlie  matter  on  the  following  day  according  to  the 
Vii'it'i Ilia  code  of  honor,  i.  6.,  by  fighting  a  duel,  and  shoot- 
ing at  each  other  Avith  guns,  which  hitherto  had  only  done 
execution  on  bears  and  Indians. 

but  some  listening  spirit  of  the  woods  determined  to 
avert  the  danger  from  these  two  equally  brave  trappers, 
aiul  save  their  ammunition  for  its  legitimate  use,  by  giving 
tlieni  occasion  to  [)rove  their  courage  almost  on  the  instant. 
While  sitting  around  the  camp-fire  discussing  the  coming 
event  of  the  duel  at  thirty  paces,  a  huge  bear,  already 
Avounded  by  a  shot  from  the  gun  of  their  hunter  who  was 
out  looking  for  game,  came  running  furiously  into  camp, 
giving  each  man  there  a  challenge  to  fight  or  fly. 

''Now,"  spoke  up  one  of  the  men  quickly,  ''let  Meek 
and  Stanberry  prove  Avhich  is  bravest,  by  fighting  the 
bear!"  "Agreed,"  cried  the  two  as  quickly,  and  both 
sprang  with  guns  and  wiping-sticks  in  hand,  charging  upon 
the  infuriated  beast  as  it  reached  the  spot  where  they  were 
awaiting  it.  Stanberry  was  a  small  man,  and  Meek  a  large 
one.  Perhaps  it  was  owing  to  this  difference  of  stature 
that  ^leek  was  first  to  reach  the  bear  as  it  advanced.  Run- 
ning up  with  reckless  bravado  Meek  struck  the  creature 
two  or  three  times  over  the  head  with  his  wiping-stick 
before  aiming  to  fire,  which  however  he  did  so  quickly 
and  so  surely  that  the  beast  fell  dead  at  his  feet.  This  act 
settled  the  vexed  question.  Nobody  was  disposed  to  dis- 
pute the  point  of  courage  with  a  man  who  would  stop  to 
strike  a  grizzly  before  shooting  him :  therefore  Meek  was 
proclaimed  by  the  common  voice  to  be  "coc  v  of  the  walk" 
in  that  camp.  The  pipe  of  peace  was  solemnly  smoked 
by  himself  and  Stanberry,  and  the  tomahawk  buried  never 


•  \ 


220 


A   RUNAWAY    BEAU. 


more  to  be  resurrected  between  them,  while  a  fat  snpper 
of  bear  meat  celebrated  the  compact  of  everlasting  amity, 

It  was  not  an  unfreqiicnt  occurrence  for  a  grizzly  bear 
to  be  run  into  camp  by  the  hunters,  in  the  Yellowstone 
country  where  this  creature  abounded.  An  amusing  inci- 
dent occurred  not  long  after  that  just  related,  when  tiio 
whole  camp  was  at  the  Cross  Creeks  of  the  Yellowstone, 
on  the  south  side  of  that  river.  The  hunters  were  out, 
and  had  come  upon  two  or  three  bears  in  a  thicket.  As 
these  animals  sometimes  Avilldo,  they  started  off'  in  a  great 
fright,  running  toward  camp,  the  hunters  after  them,  yell- 
ing, frightening  them  still  more.  A  runaway  bear,  like  a 
runaway  horse,  appears  not  to  see  where  it  is  going,  but 
keeps  right  on  its  course  no  matter  what  dangers  lie  in 
advance.  So  one  of  these  animals  having  got  headed  for 
the  middle  of  the  encampment,  saw  notliing  of  Avhat  lay 
in  its  way,  but  ran  on  and  on,  apparently  taking  note  of 
nothing  but  the  yells  in  pursuit.  So  sudden  and  unex- 
pected Avas  the  charge  which  he  made  ui)on  camp,  that 
the  Indian  women,  wdio  were  sitting  on  the  ground  engaged 
in  some  ornamental  work,  had  no  time  to  escape  out  of  the 
way.  One  of  them  Avas  thrown  down  and  run  over,  and 
another  was  struck  Avith  such  violence  that  she  was  thrown 
twenty  feet  from  the  spot  where  she  was  hastily  attemptin?' 
to  rise.  Other  objects  in  camp  were  upset  and  thrown  out 
of  the  way,  but  without  causing  so  much  merriment  as  the 
mishaps  of  the  two  women  who  were  so  rudely  treated  by 
the  monster. 

It  was  also  while  the  camp  was  at  the  Cross  Creeks  of 
the  Yellowstone  that  Meek  had  one  of  his  best  fought  bat- 
tles with  a  grizzly  bear.  He  was  out  with  two  compan- 
ions, one  Gardiner,  and  Mark  Head,  a  Shawnee  Indian. 
Seeing  a  very  large  bear  digging  roots  in  the  creek  bot- 
tom, Meek  proposed  to  attack  it,  if  the  others  would  hold 


A    (jlUIZZLV    AT    CLOSE    Ql'AUTElJS. 


221 


his  horse  ready  to  mount  if  he  failed  to  kill  the  creature. 
Tliis  l)oiiig  agreed  to  he  advanced  to  within  about  forty- 
paces  of  his  game,  when  he  raised  his  gun  and  Jittempted. 
to  fire,  but  the  cap  bursting  he  only  roused  the  beast, 
which  turned  on  him  with  a  terrific  noise  between  a  snarl 
and  a  growl,  showing  some  fearful  looking  teeth.  Meek 
turned  to  run  for  his  horse,  at  the  same  time  trying  to  put 
a  cap  on  his  gun  ;  but  when  he  had  almost  reached  his 
comrades,  their  horses  and  his  own  took  fright  at  the  bear 
now  close  on  his  heels,  and  ran,  leaving  him  alone  with  the 
i^ow  fully  infuriated  beast.  Just  at  the  moment  he  suc- 
ceeded in  getting  a  cap  on  his  gun,  the  teeth  of  the  bear 
closed  on  his  blanket  capote  which  was  belted  around  the 
waist,  the  suddenness  and  force  of  the  seizure  turning  him 
around,  as  the  skirt  of  his  capote  yielded  to  the  strain 
and  tore  off  at  the  belt.     Being  now  nearly  face  to  face 


SATISFIED   WITH    BEAR    FIGHTING. 


f     t 


with  his  foe,  the  intrepid  trapper  thrust  his  gun  into  the 


b.STlSFIKD    WITH    IJKAll    I'KJHTINO. 


croaturc's  mouth  and  attempted  again  to  fire,  but  the  gun 
being  doubh^  triggered  and  not  sot,  it  failed  to  go  oil'. 
Perceiving  the  dilViculty  he  managed  to  set  tlic  triggers 
with  the  gun  still  in  the  bear's  mouth,  yet  no  sooner  was 
this  done  than  the  bear  succeeded  in  knocking  it  out,  and 
firing  as  it  sli})ped  out,  it  hit  her  too  low  dcjwn  to  inflict  a 
fatal  wound  and  only  served  to  irritate  her  still  farther. 

In  this  desperate  situation  when  Meek's  brain  was  rap- 
idly working  on  the  problem  of  live  !Meek  or  live  bear, 
two  fresh  actors  appeared  on  the  scene  in  the  persons  of 
two  cubs,  who  seeing  their  mother  in  dilhculty  ^enicd 
desirous  of  doing  something  to  assist  her.  Tliei  near- 
ance  seemed  to  excite  the  bear  to  new  exeriiuiis,  for 
she  made  one  desperate  blow  at  Meek's  empty  gun  with 
which  he  was  defending  himself,  and  knocked  it  out  of  his 
hands,  and  fiir  down  iha  bank  or  sloping  hillside  whore 
the  struggle  was  now  going  on.  Then  being  partially 
blinded  by  rage,  she  seized  one  of  her  cubs  and  began  to 
box  it  about  in  a  most  unmotherly  fashion.  This  diversion 
gave  j\Ieck  a  chance  to  draw  his  knife  from  the  scabbard, 
with  wliich  he  endeavored  to  stab  the  bear  behind  the 
ear :  but  she  was  too  quick  for  him,  and  with  a  blow  struck 
it  out  of  his  hand,  as  she  had  the  gun,  nearly  severing  his 
forefinger. 

At  this  critical  juncture  the  second  cub  interfered,  and 
got  a  boxing  from  the  old  bear,  as  the  first  one  had  done. 
Tills  too,  gave  Meek  time  to  make  a  movement,  and  loosen- 
ing his  tomahawk  from  his  belt,  he  made  one  tremen- 
dous effort,  taking  deadly  aim,  and  struck  her  just  behind 
the  ear,  the  tomahawk  sinking  into  the  brain,  and  his 
powerful  antagonist  lay  dead  before  him.  When  the  blow 
was  struck  he  stood  with  his  back  against  a  little  bluff  of 
rock,  beyond  which  it  was  impossible  to  retreat.  It  was 
his  last  chance,  and  his  usual  good  fortune  stood  by  him. 


WINTEU-QUAUTEUa    ON   POWDEJl   KlVEll. 


22J 


When  tlio  struggle  was  over  the  weary  victor  mounted 
the  rock  behind  him  and  k)oked  down  upon  his  enemy 
sliiiu;  and  ''came  to  the  couulusiuii  that  he  was  satisfied 
with  bar-lighting." 

But  renown  had  sought  him  out  even  here,  alone  with 
hi*  lifeless  antagonist.  Ca|)t.  Stuart  with  his  artist,  Mr. 
Miller,  chanced  upon  this  very  spot,  while  yet  the  con- 
([iiei'ur  contemplated  his  slain  enemy,  and  taking  posses- 
sion at  once  of  the  bear,  whose  skin  was  afterward  preserved 
and  sliitruil,  made  a  portrait  of  the  "sat'  lied"  slayer.  A 
picture  was  subsequently  painted  by  Miller  of  this  scene, 
;uid  was  copied  in  wax  for  a  museum  in  St.  Louis,  where 
it  probably  remains  to  this  day,  a  monument  of  Meek's 
best  bear  fight.  As  for  Meek's  runaway  horse  and  run- 
away comrades,  they  returned  to  the  scene  of  action  too 
late  to  be  of  the  least  service,  except  to  furnish  our  hero 
with  transportation  to  camp,  which,  considering  the  weight 
of  his  newly  gathered  laurels,  was  no  light  service  after 
all 

lu  November  Bridger's  camp  arrived  at  the  Bighorn 
River,  expecting  to  winter ;  but  finding  the  buffalo  all  gone, 
were  obliged  to  cross  the  mountains  lying  between  the 
Bighorn  and  Powder  rivers  to  reach  the  bulHilo  country 
on  the  latter  stream.  The  snow  having  already  fallen 
quite  deep  on  these  mountains  the  crossing  was  attended 
with  great  difficulty ;  and  many  horses  and  mules  were 
lost  by  sinking  m  the  snow,  or  falling  down  precipices 
made  slippery  by  the  melting  and  freezing  of  the  snow  on 
the  narrow  ridges  and  rocky  benches  along  which  they 
were  forced  to  travel. 

About  Christmas  all  the  company  went  into  winter-quar- 
ters on  Powder  River,  in  the  neighborhood  of  a  company 
of  Bonneville's  men,  left  under  the  command  of  Antoine 
Montero,  who  had  established  a  trading-post  and  fort  at 
15 


I 


i:    ,1 


!    i 


1 


■■j:.^ 


224 


BONNEVILLE  S   MSN   ROBBED. 


t    ' 


this  place,  h  jping,  no  doubt,  that  here  they  should  be 
comparatively  safe  from  the  injurious  competition  of  the 
older  companies.  The  appearance  of  three  hundred  men, 
who  had  the  winter  before  them  in  which  to  do  mischief, 
was  therefore  as  unpleasant  as  it  was  unexpected;  and 
the  result  proved  that  evcnMontero,  who  was  Bonneville's 
experienced  trader,  could  not  hold  his  own  agaiiicl  so 
numerous  and  expert  a  band  of  marauders  as  Bridgtr's 
men,  assisted  by  the  Crows,  proved  themselves  to  be ;  for 
by  the  return  of  spring  Montero  had  very  little  remaining; 
of  the  property  belonging  to  the  fort,  nor  anything  to  sho\v 
for  it.  This  mischievous  war  upon  Bonneville  was  promrt- 
ed  partly  by  the  usual  desire  to  cripple  a  rival  trader, 
which  the  leaders  encouraged  in  tlieir  men  ;  but  in  some 
individual  instances  far  more  by  the  desire  for  revengp 
upon  Bonneville  personally,  on  account  of  his  censurej 
passed  upon  the  members  of  the  Monterey  expedition, 
and  on  the  v/ays  of  mountain-men  generally. 

About  the  first  of  January,  Fontenelle,  wUh  four  men, 
and  Captain  Stuart's  party,  left  camp  to  go  to   St.  Lci 
for  supplies.     At  Fort  Laramie  Fontenelle  committed  sui- 
cide, in  a  fit  of  mania  apotu,  and  his  men  returned  to 
camp  with  the  news. 


DISSIPATION   IN   CAMP. 


225 


!  :i 


CHAPTER    XVII. 


1837.  The  fate  of  Fonteiielle  should  have  served  as  a 
warnins:  to  his  associates  and  fellows.  '  Should  have  done  ' 
however,  are  often  idle  words,  and  as  sad  as  they  are  idle ; 
they  match  the  poets  'might  have  been,'  in  their  regret- 
ful 'inpotency.  Perhaps  there  never  was  a  winter  camp 
in  tiie  mountams  more  thoroughly  demoralized  than  that 
of  Bridger  during  the  months  of  January  ond  February. 
Added  to  the  whites,  who  were  reckless  enough,  were  a 
considerable  party  of  Delaware  and  Shawnee  Indians,  ex- 
cellent allies,  and  skillful  hunters  and  trappers,  but  having 
the  Indian's  love  of  strong  drink.  "  Times  were  pretty 
good  in  the  mountains,"  according  to  the  mountain-man's 
notion  of  good  tines ;  that  is  to  say,  beaver  was  plenty, 
caraji  large,  and  alcohol  abundant,  if  dear.  Under  these 
fivorable  circumstarce  much  alcohol  was  consumed,  and 
its  ir^uence  was  felt  in  the  manners  no<  only  of  the  trap- 
pers, white  and  red,  but  also  upon  the  neighboring  In- 
dians. 

The  Crows,  who  had  for  two  years  been  on  terms  of  a 
sort  of  semi-amity  with  the  whites,  found  it  to  their  in- 
terest to  conciliate  so  powerful  an  enemy  as  the  American 
Fur  Company  was  now  become,  and  made  frequent  visits 
to  the  camp,  on  which  occasion  they  usually  succeeded  in 
obtaining  a  taste  of  the  fire-water  oi'  which  they  were  in- 
ordinately fond.  Occasionally  a  trader  was  permitted  to 
sell  licjuor  to  the  whole  village,  when  a  scene  took  place 


r 

'iji 

f — 


'1 ' 

If 


22G 


A    CROW    CAROUSAL — PICKED    CROWS. 


whose  peculiar  horrors  wore  wholly  iudcscribablo,  from  the 
inability  of  language  to  convey  an  adequate  idea  of  its 
hellisli  degradation.  When  a  trader  sold  alcohol  to  a 
village  it  was  understood  both  by  himself  and  the  Indians 
what  was  to  follow.  And  to  secure  the  trader  against  in- 
jury a  certain  number  of  warriors  were  selected  out  of 
the  village  to  act  as  a  police  force,  and  to  guard  the  trader 
during  the  'drunk'  from  the  insane  passions  of  his  cus- 
tomers.    To  the  police  not  a  drop  was  to  be  given. 

This  being  arranged,  .^nd  the  village  disarmed,  the  ca- 
rousal began.  Every  individual,  man,  woman,  and  child, 
w^as  permitted  to  become  intoxicated.  Every  form  of 
drunkenness,  from  the  simple  stupid  to  the  silly,  the  he- 
roic, the  insane,  the  beastly,  the  murderous,  displayed 
itself  The  scenes  which  were  then  enacted  beggared  de- 
scription, as  they  .shocked  the  senses  of  even  the  hard- 
drinking,  license-loving  trappers  who  witnessed  them. 
That  they  did  not  "point  a  moral"  for  these  men,  is  the 
strangest  part  of  the  whole  transaction.  "  .tl"" 

When  everybody,  police  excepted,  was  drunk  as  drunk 
could  h(\  the  trader  began  to  dilute  his  alcohol  with  water, 
until  finally  his  keg  contained  water  only,  slightly  flavored 
by  the  washings  of  the  keg,  and  as  they  continued  to 
drink  of  it  without  detecting  its  weak  quality,  they  finally 
drank  themselves  sober,  and  were  able  at  last  to  sum  up 
the  cost  of  their  intoxication.  This  was  generally  nothing 
less  than  the  whole  property  of  the  village,  added  to  which 
were  not  a  few  personal  injuries,  and  usually  a  few  mur- 
ders. The  village  now  being  poor,  the  Indians  were  cor- 
respondingly humble  ;  and  were  forced  to  begin  a  system 
of  reprisal  by  stealing  and  making  war,  a  course  for  which 
the  traders  were  prepared,  and  which  they  avoided  by 
leaving  that  neighborhood.  Such  were  some  of  the  sins 
and  sorrows  for  which  the  American  fur  companies  were 


mm 


NIGHT    VISIT    TO    THE    BLACKFOOT    VILLAGE. 


227 


answerable,  and  which  detracted  seriously  from  the  re- 
spect that  the  courage,  and  other  good  qualities  of  the 
morntain-mcn  freely  commanded. 

By  the  first  of  March  these  scenes  of  wrong  and  riot 
v,'evc  over,  for  that  season  at  least,  and  camp  commenced 
moving  back  toward  the  Blackfoot  country.  After  re- 
crossing  the  mountains,  passing  the  Bighorn,  Clarke's,  and 
Rosebud  rivers,  they  came  upon  a  Blackfoot  village  on 
the  Yellowstono^  which  as  usual  they  attacked,  and  a  bat- 
tle ensued,  in  which  Manhead,  captain  of  the  Delawares 
was  killed,  another  Delaware  named  Tom  Hill  succeeding 
him  in  command.  The  fight  did  not  result  in  any  great 
loss  or  gain  to  either  party.  The  camp  of  Bridger  fought 
its  way  past  the  village,  which  was  what  thoy  must  do,  in 
order  to  proceed. 

Meek,  however,  was  not  quite  satis^'^d  with  the  punish- 
ment the  Blackfeet  had  received  foi  ihc  killing  of  Man- 
head, who  had  been  in  the  fight  with  him  when  the  Ca- 
mancbes  attacked  them  on  the  plains.  Desirous  of  doing 
something  on  his  own  account,  he  induced  a  comrade 
named  LeBlas,  to  accompany  him  to  the  village,  after  night 
had  closed  over  the  scene  of  the  late  contest.  Stealing 
into  the  village  with  a  noiselessness  equal  to  that  of  one 
of  Fcnniraore  Cooper's  Indian  scouts,  these  two  daring 
trappers  crept  so  near  that  they  could  look  into  the  lodges, 
and  see  the  Indians  at  their  favorite  game  of  Hand.  In- 
ferring from  this  that  the  savages  did  not  feel  their  losses 
very  severely,  they  determined  to  leave  some  sign  of  their 
visit,  and  wound  their  enemy  in  his  most  sensitive  part, 
the  horse.  Accordingly  they  cut  the  halters  of  a  number 
of  the  animals,  fastened  in  the  customary  manner  to  a 
stake,  and  succeeded  in  getting  oiF  with  nine  of  them, 
which  property  they  proceeded  to  appropriate  to  their 
own  use.  ^  '     :■   ■  ••  ■  -.    '  •      -^ 


:0\4l 


^PP' 


228 


STANLEY,    THE   INDIAN   PAINTER. 


As  the  spring  and  summer  advanced,  Bridger's  brigade 
advanced  into  the  mountains,  passing  the  Cross  Creek  of 
the  Yellowstone,  Twenty-five- Yard  River,  Cherry  River, 
and  coming  on  to  the  head-waters  of  the  Missouri  spent  the 
early  part  of  the  summer  in  that  locality.  Between  Gal- 
latin and  Madison  forks  the  camp  struck  the  great  trail  of 
the  Blackfeet.  ^leek  and  Mark  Head  had  fallen  four  or 
five  days  behind  camp,  and  being  on  this  trail  felt  a  good 
deal  of  uneasiness.  This  feeling  was  not  lessened  by 
seeing,  on  coming  to  Madison  Fork,  the  skeletons  of  two 
men  tied  to  or  suspended  from  trees,  the  flesh  eaten  off 
their  bones.  Concluding  discretion  to  be  the  safest  pari 
of  valor  in  this  country,  they  concealed  themselves  by  dny 
and  traveled  by  night,  until  camp  was  finally  reached 
near  Henry's  Lake.  On  this  march  they  forded  a  flooded 
river,  on  the  back  of  the  same  mule,  their  traps  placed  on 
ihe  other,  and  escaped  from  pursuit  of  a  dozen  yell'.ijg 
savages,  who  gazed  after  them  in  astonishment;  "taking 
their  mule,"  said  Mark  Head,"  to  be  a  beaver,  and  them- 
selves great  medicine  men.  "  That,"  said  Meek,  "is  what 
I  call  'cooning'  a  river." 

From  this  point  Meek  set  out  wath  a  party  of  thirty  or 
forty  trappers  to  travel  up  the  river  to  head-waters,  accom- 
panied by  the  famous  Indian  painter  Stanley,  whose  party 
was  met  with,  this  spring,  traveling  among  the  mountains. 
The  party  of  trappers  were  a  day  o^  two  ahead  of  the 
main  camp  when  they  found  themselves  following  close 
after  the  big  Blackfoot  village  which  had  recently  passed 
over  the  trail,  as  could  be  seen  l)y  the  usual  signs;  and 
also  by  the  dead  bodies  strewn  .'long  the  trail,  victims  of 
that  horrible  scourge,  the  small  pox.  The  village  was  evi- 
dently fleeing  to  the  mountains,  lioping  to  rid  itself  of  the 
plague  in  their  colder  and  more  salubrious  air. 

Not  long  after  coming  upon  these  evidences  of  prox- 


brigade 
Ureck  of 
y  River, 
ipent  the 
een  Gal- 
t  trail  of 
a  four  or 
it  a  good 
ened  by 
IS  of  two 
3aten  off 
ifest  pari 
;s  by  dny 

reached 
[I  flooded 
)laced  on 
1  yeir.iig 

"taking 
id  them- 

"is  what 

thirty  or 

s,  accom- 

Dse  party 

ountains. 

.  of  the 

11  g  close 

y  passed 

lis;  and 

ctlms  of 

was  evi- 

'If  of  the 

of  prox- 


DESPERATE    FIGHT    WITH   BLACKFEET. 


229 


■1  '' 

[ 

1 

1 

1  5 

1  ^ 
1  ^ 

s 

,  ■< 

ii   T; 

mm 

'1. 

1^ 

1  W 

^ 

Hyii 

^    V, 

iiiiity  to  an  enemy,  a  party  of  a  hundred  and  fifty  of  their 
warriors  were  discovered  encamped  in  a  defile  or  narrow 
hottoiii  enclosed  by  high  blulfs,  through  which  the  trap- 
pers Avould  have  to  pass.  Seeing  that  in  order  to  pass  this 
war  i)arty,  and  the  village,  which  was  about  half  a  mile  in 
tidvance,  there  would  have  to  be  some  fighting  done,  the 
trappers  resolved  to  begin  the  battle  at  once  by  attacking 
their  enemy,  who  was  as  yet  ignorant  of  their  neighbor- 
hood In  pursuance  of  this  determination,  Meek,  Newell, 
Mansfield,  and  Le  Bias,  commenced  hostilities.  Leaving 
their  horses  in  camp,  they  crawled  along  on  the  edge  of 
tlie  overhanging  bluff  until  opposite  to  the  encampment 
uf  Blackfect,  fii'ing  on  them  from  the  shelter  of  some 
buslies  which  grew  among  the  rocks.  But  the  Blackfeet, 
though  ignorant  of  the  number  of  their  enemy,  were  not 
to  be  dislodged  so  easily,  and  aftef  an  hour  or  two  of  ran- 
dom shooting,  contrived  to  scale  the  bluff  at  a  point  higher 
up,  and  to  get  upon  a  ridge  of  ground  still  higher  than 
that  occupied  by  the  four  trappers.  This  movement  dis- 
lodged the  latter,  and  they  hastily  retreated  through  the 
bushes  and  returned  to  camp. 

The  next  day,  the  main  camp  having  come  up,  the  fight 
was  renewed.  While  the  greater  body  of  the  company, 
with  the  pack-horses,  were  passing  along  ti.e  high  bluff 
ovcrlianging  them,  the  party  of  the  day  before,  and  forty 
or  fifty  others,  undertook  to  drive  the  Indians  out  of  the 
bottom,  and  by  keeping  them  engaged  allow  the  train  to 
pass  in  safety.  The  trappers  rode  to  the  fight  on  this  oc- 
casion, and  charged  the  Blackfeet  furiously,  they  having 
joined  the  village  a  little  farther  on.  A  general  skirmish 
now  took  place.  Meek,  who  was  mounted  on  a  fine  horse, 
was  in  the  thickest  of  the  fight.  He  had  at  onci  time  a 
side  to  side  race  with  an  Indian  who  strung  his  bow  so 


,■'■6. 


230 


THE   TRAPPERS   LAST    SHOT. 


hard  that  tlie  an'ow  dropped,  just  as  Mock,  who  had  loaded 
his  giin  ruiiiiiiig,  was  ready  to  fire,  and  the  Indian  dropped 
after  his  arrow. 

Newell  too  had  a  desperate  conflict  with  a  half-dead 
warrior,  who  having  fallen  from  a  wound,  he  thought  dead 
and  was  trying  to  scalp.  Springing  from  his  liorse  he 
seized  the  Indian's  long  thick  hair  in  one  hand,  and  with 
his  knife  held  in  the  other  made  a  pass  at  the  scalp,  when 
the  savage  roused  up  knife  in  hand,  and  a  struggle  took 
place  in  which  it  was  for  a  time  doubtful  which  of  the 
combatants  would  part  with  the  coveted  scalp-lock.  New- 
ell might  have  been  glad  to  resign  the  trophy,  and  leave 
the  fallen  warrior  his  tuft  of  hair,  but  his  fingers  were  in 
some  way  caught  by  some  gun-screws  with  which  the  sav- 
age had  ornamented  his  coiffure^  and  would  not  part  com- 
pany. In  this  dilemma  there  was  no  other  alternative  but 
fight.  The  miserable  savage  was  dragged  a  rod  or  two  in 
the  struggle,  and  finally  dispatched.  "i-;^ 

Mansfield  also  got  into  such  close  quarters,  surrounded 
by  the  enemy,  that  he  gave  himself  up  for  lost,  and  called 
out  to  his  comrades:  "Tell  old  Gabe,  (Bridgcr,)  that  old 
Cotton  (his  own  sobriquet)  is  gone."  He  lived,  however, 
to  deliver  his  own  farewell  message,  for  at  this  critical 
juncture  the  trappers  were  re-inforced,  and  relieved.  Still 
the  fight  went  on,  the  trappers  gradually  working  their 
way  to  the  upper  end  of  the  enclosed  part  of  the  valley, 
past  the  point  of  danger. 

Just  before  getting  clear  of  this  entanglement  Meek  be- 
came the  subject  of  another  picture,  by  Stanley,  who  was 
viewing  the  battle  from  the  heights  above  the  valley. 
The  picture  which  is  well  known  as  "The  Trapper's  Last 
Shot,"  represents  him  as  he  turned  upon  his  horse,  a  fine 
and  spirited  animal,  to  discharge  his  last  shot  at  an  Indian 


■.  i 


A   TALK   WITH   LITTLE-ROHE. 


231 


pursuing,  wliile  in  the  bottom,  at  a  little  distance  away, 
other  Indians  arc  seen  skulking  in  the  tall  reedy  grass. 

The  last  shot  having  been  discharged  with  fatal  effect, 
our  trapper,  so  persistently  lionized  by  painters,  put  his 
horse  to  his.  utmost  speed  and  soon  after  overtook  the 
camp,  which  had  now  passed  the  strait  of  danger.  But 
the  Blackfeet  were  still  unsatisfied  with  the  result  of  the 
contest.  They  followed  after,  reinforced  from  the  village, 
and  attacked  the  camp.  In  the  fight  which  folloAved  a 
Blackfoot  woman's  horse  was  shot  down,  and  Meek  tried 
to  take  her  prisoner :  but  two  or  three  of  her  people  com- 


■i 


4j 


"AND    THEREBY   HANGS    A   TAIL. 


ing  to  the  rescue,  engaged  his  attention ;  and  the  woman 
was  saved  by  seizing  hold  of  the  tail  of  her  husband's 
horse,  which  setting  off  at  a  run,  carried  her  out  of 
danger. 

The  Blackfeet  found  the  camp  of  Bridger  too  strong 
for  them.  They  were  severely  beaten  and  compelled  to 
retire  to  their  village,  leaving  Bridger  free  to  move  on. 
The  following  day  the  camp  reached  the  village  of  Little- 
Robe,  a  chief  of  the  Peagans,  who  held  a  talk  with  Bridger, 


'■iyf^-.} 


"^.a.. 


232 


AN   INDUN   IN   THE   WIIONQ    CAMP. 


complaining  that  his  nation  were  all  perishing  from  the 
Hniall-[)ox  which  had  been  given  to  them  by  the  whites. 
Bridgcr  was  able  to  explain  to  Little-Robe  his  error;  in- 
asmuch as  although  the  disease  might  have  originated 
among  the  whites,  it  was  conununicated  to  the  Blackfeet 
by  Jim  Bcckwith,  a  negro,  and  principal  chief  of  their 
enemies  the  Crows.  This  unscrupulous  wretch  had  caused 
two  infected  articles  to  be  taken  from  a  Mackinaw  boat, 
up  from  St.  Louis,  and  disposed  of  to  the  Blackfeet— 
whence  the  horrible  scourge  under  which  they  were  suf- 
fering. 

This  matter  being  explained,  Little-Robe  consented  to 
trade  horses  and  skins ;  and  the  two  camps  parted  amica- 
bly. The  next  day  after  this  friendly  talk,  Bridger  being 
encamped  on  the  trail  in  advance  of  the  Blackfeet,  an  In- 
dian came  riding  into  camp,  with  his  wife  and  daughter, 
pack-horse  and  lodge-pole,  and  all  his  worldly  goods,  un- 
aware until  he  got  there  of  the  snare  into  which  he  had 
fallen.  The  French  trappers,  generally,  decreed  to  kill 
the  man  and  take  possession  of  the  woman.  But  Meek, 
Kic  Carson,  and  others  of  the  American  trappers  of  the 
better  sort,  interfered  to  prevent  this  truly  savage  act 
Meek  took  the  woman's  horse  by  the  head,  Carson  the 
man's,  the  daughter  following,  and  led  them  out  of  camp. 
Few  of  the  Frenchmen  cared  to  interrupt  either  of  these 
two  men,  and  they  were  suffered  to  depart  in  peace. 
When  at  a  safe  distance.  Meek  stopped,  and  demanded  as 
some  return  for  having  saved  the  man's  life,  a  present  of 
tobacco,  a  luxury  which,  from  the  Indian's  pipe,  he  sus- 
pected him  to  possess.  About  enough  for  two  chews  was 
the  result  of  this  demand,  complied  with  rather  grudg- 
ingly, the  Indian  vieing  with  the  trapper  in  his  devotiou 
to  the  weed.     Just  at  this  time,  owing  to  the  death  of 


,.»  i 


n 


MR.  GRAY    AND    UlS   ADVENTURK8. 


233 


Fontcncllo,  and  a  consequent  delay  in  receiving  supplies, 
tobacco  was  scarce  among  the  mountaineers. 

Bridgcr's  brigade  of  trappers  met  with  no  other  serious 
iulerniptions  on  their  summer's  march.  They  proceeded 
to  Henry's  Lake,  and  crossing  the  Rocky  Mountains,  trav- 
eled tlu-ough  the  Pine  Woods,  always  a  favorite  region,  to 
Lewis'  Lake  on  Lewis'  Fork  of  the  Snake  River;  and 
linally  up  the  Grovant  Fork,  recrossing  the  mountains  to 
Wind  River,  where  the  rendezvous  for  this  year  was  ap- 
pointed. 

Here,  once  more,  the  camp  was  visited  by  a  last  years' 
acquiuutance.  This  was  none  other  than  Mr.  Gray,  of  the 
Flathead  Mission,  who  was  returning  to  the  States  on  bus- 
iness connected  with  the  missionary  enterprise,  and  to 
provide  himself  with  a  helpmeet  for  life, — a  co-laborer 
and  sull'erer  in  the  contemplated  toil  of  teaching  savages 
the  rudiments  of  a  religion  difficult  even  to  the  compre- 
liensiou  of  an  old  civilization. 

Mr.  Gray  was  accompanied  by  two  young  men  (whites) 
who  wished  to  return  to  the  States,  and  also  by  a  son  of 
one  of  the  Flathead  chiefs.  Two  other  Flathead  Indians, 
and  one  Iroquois  and  one  Snake  Indian,  were  induced  to 
accompany  Mr.  Gray.  The  undertaking  was  not  without 
danger,  and  so  the  leaders  of  the  Fur  Company  assured 
him.  But  Mr.  Gray  was  inclined  to  make  light  of  the 
danger,  having  traveled  with  entire  safety  when  under  the 
protection  of  the  Fur  Companies  the  year  before.  He 
proceeded  without  interruption  until  he  reached  Ash  Hol- 
low, iu  the  neighborhood  of  Fort  Laramie,  when  his  party 
was  attacked  by  a  large  band  of  Sioux,  and  compelled  to 
accept  battle.  The  five  Indians,  with  the  whites,  fought 
bravely,  killing  fifteen  of  the  Sioux,  before  a  parley  was 
obtained  by  the  intervention  of  a  French  trader  who 


4:  !,i 


1    i'i 


234 


WASHACUE    OF    Mil.    GRAY  H    INDIAN    ALLIES. 


chanced  to  be  am()n«^  the  Sioux.  When  Mr.  Graywaa 
able  to  hold  a  'talk'  with  the  attacking  party  he  was  as- 
sured that  his  life  and  that  of  his  two  white  associates 
would  be  spared,  but  that  they  wanted  to  kill  the  strange 
Indians  and  take  their  fine  horses.  It  is  not  at  all  proba- 
ble that  Mr.  Gray  consented  to  this  sacrifice;  though  he 
has  been  accused  of  doing  so. 

No  doubt  the  Sioux  took  advantage  of  some  hesi- 
tation on  his  j)art,  and  rushed  upon  his  Indian  allies  in  an 
unguarded  moment.  However  that  may  be,  his  allies 
were  killed  and  he  was  allowed  to  escape,  after  giving  up 
the  property  belonging  to  them,  and  a  portion  of  his  own. 

This  affair  was  the  occasion  of  much  ill-feeling  towarti 
."Mr.  Gray,  when,  in  the  following  year,  he  returned  to  the 
mountains  with  the  talc  of  massacre  of  his  friends  and  his 
own  escape.  The  mountain-men,  although  they  used  theii 
influence  to  restrain  the  vengeful  feelings  of  the  Flathead 
tribe,  whis[)ercd  amongst  themselves  that  Gray  had  pre- 
ferred his  own  life  to  that  of  his  friends.  The  old  Flat- 
head chief  too,  who  had  lost  a  son  by  the  massacre,  was 
hardly  able  to  check  his  impulsive  desire  for  revenge;  for 
he  held  Mr.  Gray  rcsponsiljle  for  his  son's  life.  Nothing  more 
serious,  however,  grew  out  of  this  unhappy  tragedy  than  a 
disaffection  among  the  tribe  toward  Mr.  Gray,  which  made 
his  labors  useless,  and  finally  determined  him  to  remove  to 
the  Wallamet  Valley. 

There  were  no  outsiders  besides  Gray's  party  at  the  ren- 
dezvous of  this  year,  except  Captain  Stuart,  and  he  was 
almost  as  good  a  mountaineer  as  any.  This  doughty 
English  traveler  had  the  bad  fortune  together  with  that 
experienced  leader  Fitzpatrick,  of  being  robbed  by  the 
Crows  in  the  course  of  the  fall  hunt,  in  the  Crow  country. 
These  expert  horse  thieves  had  succeeded  in  stealing 


CAPT.    STUART    IIOHIIKD   MY    THE    CUOWS. 


235 


noarly  all  the  horsos  holDiiging  to  tho  joint  camp,  and  had 
so  di.siil>l(!d  tho  company  that  it  could  not  procc(;d.  In 
this  einergoncy,  Newell,  who  had  long  been  a  sub-trader 
1111(1  was  wise  in  Indian  arts  and  wiles,  was  sent  to  hold  a 
talk  with  the  thieves.  The  talk  was  held,  according  to 
custom,  in  the  the  Medicine  lodge,  and  the  usual  amount 
of  smoking,  of  long  silences,  and  grave  looks,  had  to  be 
piirtic'ipatcd  in,  before  the  subject  on  hand  could  be  ©on- 
sidercd.  Then  the  chiefs  complained  as  usual  of  wrongs 
at  tho  hands  of  the  white  men  ;  of  their  fear  of  small-pox, 
from  which  some  of  their  tribe  had  suffered ;  of  friends 
killed  in  battle  with  tho  whites,  and  all  the  list  of  ills  that 
Cr(  w  flesh  is  heir  to  at  the  will  of  their  white  enemies. 
Tho  women  too  had  their  complaints  to  proffer,  and  the 
number  of  widows  and  orphans  in  the  tribe  was  pathetic- 
ally sot  forth.  The  chiefs  also  made  a  strong  point  of 
this  latter  complaint ;  and  on  it  the  wily  Newell  hung 
his  hopes  of  recovering  the  stolen  property. 

"  It  is  true,"  said  he  to  the  chiefs,  "  that  you  have  sus- 
tained heavy  losses.  But  that  is  not  the  fault  of  the  Blan- 
ket chief  (Bridger.)  If  your  young  men  have  been  killed, 
they  were  killed  when  attempting  to  rob  or  kill  our  Cap- 
tain's men.  If  you  have  lost  horses,  your  young  men  have 
stolen  five  to  our  one.  If  you  are  poor  in  skins  and  other 
property,  it  is  because  you  sold  it  all  for  drink  which  did 
you  no  good.  Neither  is  Bridger  to  blame  that  you  have 
had  the  small-pox.  Your  own  chief,  in  trying  to  kill  your 
enemies  the  Blackfeet,  brought  that  disease  into  the  coun- 
try. 

"  But  it  is  true  that  }  ou  have  many  widows  and  orphans 
to  support,  and  that  is  bad.  I  pity  the  orphans,  and  will 
help  you  to  support  them,  if  you  will  restore  to  my  cap- 
tain the  property  stolen  from  his  camp.  Otherwise 
Bridger  will  bring  more  horses,  and  plenty  of  ammuni- 


I'*) 


mf^ 


236 


newf:ll's  address  to  the  chow  chiefs. 


tion,  and  there  will  bo  more  widows  and  orphans  amonc 
the  Crows  than  evb^  before." 

This  was  a  kind  of  logic  easy  to  understand  and  cjiiick 
to  conviii  e  among  savages.  The  bribe,  backed  by  a  threat, 
settled  the  question  of  the  restoration  of  the  horses,  which 
were  returned  w^ithout  further  delay,  and  a  present  of 
blankets  arif]  trinkets  was  given,  ostensibly  to  the  bereaved 
women,  really  to  the  covetous  v^'^iefs. 


■;»■• 


■;/f»" 


DECLINE  OF  THE  FUR  TRADE. 


23T 


CHAPTER    XVIII. 


■.•/4  ■ 


1837.  The  decline  of  the  business  of  hunting  furs  be- 
gftii  to  be  quite  obvious  about  this  time.  Besides  the 
American  and  St.  Louis  Coippanies,  and  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company,  there  "weic  rxumerous  lone  traders  with  whom 
the  ground  was  divided.  The  autumn  of  this  year  was 
spent  hy  the  American  Company,  as  formerly,  in  trapping 
beaver  on  the  streams  issuing  from  the  eastern  side  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains.  When  the  cold  weather  finally  drove 
the  Fur  Company  to  the  plains,  they  went  into  winter 
quarters  once  more  in  the  r.eip-bborhood  of  the  Crows  on 
Powder  River.  Here  were  re-enacted  the  wild  scenes  of 
the  previous  winter,  both  trappers  and  Indians  being 
given  up  to  excesses. 

On  the  return  of  spring,  Bridger  again  led  his  brigade 
all  through  the  Yellowstone  country,  to  the  streams  on 
the  north  side  of  the  Missouri,  to  the  head-waters  of  that 
rivev;  and  finally  rendezvoused  on  the  north  fork  of  the 
Yellowstone,  near  Yellowstone  Lake.  Though  the  amoiint 
of  furs  taken  on  the  spring  hunt  was  considerable,  it  was 
hy  no  means  equal  to  former  years.  The  fact  was  becom- 
ing apparent  that  the  beaver  was  being  rapidly  extermin- 
ated. 

However  there  was  beaver  enough  in  camp  to  furnish 
the  means  for  the  usual  profligacy.  Horse-racing,  betting, 
gamhling,  drinking,  were  freely  indulged  in.  In  the 
midst  of  this  "  fun,"  there  appeared  at  the  rendezvous  Mr. 


S  '^kH' 


!  K  a 


fi.   '      %  J!i- 


238 


A   MISSIONARY    PART  f — A    WAR   DANCE. 


Gray,  novf  accompanied  by  ^Irs.  Gray  and  six  other  mission- 
ary ladies  I'nd  gentlemen.  Here  also  were  two  gentlemen 
from  the  ]\'L'thodist  mission  on  the  Wallamet,  who  were 
returning  to  the  States.  Captain  Stuart  was  still  traveling 
with  the  Fur  Company,  and  was  also  present  with  hi? 
party ;  besides  which  a  Hudson's  Bay  trader  named  Ema- 
tinger  was  encamped  near  by.  As  if  actuated  to  extra- 
ordinary displays  by  the  unusual  number  of  visitors,  espe- 
cially the  four  ladies,  both  trappers  and  Indians  conducted 
themselves  like  the  mad-caps  they  were.  The  Shawnees 
and  Delawares  danced  their  great  war-dance  before  the 
tents  of  the  missionaries ;  and  Joe  Meek,  not  to  be  out- 
done, arrayed  himself  in  a  suit  of  armor  belonging  to  Cap- 
tain Stuart  and  strutted  about  the  encampment ;  then 
mounting  his  horse  played  the  part  of  an  ancient  kiiight, 
^  lib.  a  good  deal  of  eclat. 

Meek  had  not  abstained  from  the  alcohol  kettle,  but  had 
oifered  it  and  partaken  of  it  rather  more  freely  than  usual; 
so  that  when  rendezvous  was  broken  up,  the  St.  Louis 
Company  gone  to  the  Popo  Agio,  and  the  American  Com- 
pany going  to  Wind  River,  he  found  that  his  wife,  a  Nez 
Perce  who  had  succeeded  Umentucken  in  his  affections, 
had  taken  offence,  or  a  fit  of  homesickness,  which  wui 
synonymous,  and  departed  with  the  party  of  Ematinger 
and  the  missionaries,  intending  to  visit  her  people  at 
Walla- Walla.  This  desertion  wounded  Meek's  feelings; 
for  he  prided  himself  on  his  courtes^'  to  the  sex,  and  did 
not  like  to  think  that  he  had  not  behaved  handsomely. 
All  the  more  was  he  vexed  with  himself  because  his  spouse 
had  carried  with  her  a  pretty  and  sprightly  baby-daugh- 
ter, of  whom  the  father  was  fond  and  proud,  and  who  had 
been  christened  Helen  Mar,  after  one  of  the  heroines  of 
Miss  Porter's  Scottish  Chiefs — a  book  much  admired  in 
the  mountain^,  as  it  has  been  elsewhere. 


PURSUIT    OF    A   RUNAWAY   SPOUSE. 


239 


Tlicroforc  at  the  first  camp  of  the  American  Company, 
Meek  resolved  to  turn  his  back  on  the  company,  and  go 
after  the  motlicr  and  daughter.  Obtaining  a  fresh  kettle 
of  alcohol,  to  keep  up  his  spirits,  he  left  camp,  returning 
toward  the  scene  of  the  late  rendezvous.  But  in  the  eftbrt 
to  keep  up  his  spirits  he  had  drank  too  much  alcohol,  and 
the  result  was  that  on  the  next  morning  he  found  himself 
alone  on  the  Wind  River  Mountain,  with  his  horses  and 
pack  mules,  and  vciy  sick  indeed.  T.alving  a  little  more 
alcohol  to  brace  up  his  nerves,  he  stnrted  on  again,  pass- 
ing around  the  mountain  on  to  the  Sweetwater ;  thence  to 
the  Sand}',  and  thonce  across  a  country  without  water  for 
seventy-live  miles,  to  Green  River,  where  the  camp  of  Ema- 
tingcr  was  overtaken. 

The  heat  'was  excessive ;  and  the  absence  of  water  made 
the  journey  across  the  arid  plain  between  Sandy  and 
Green  Rivers  one  of  great  suffering  to  the  traveler  and 
his  animals ;  and  the  more  so  as  the  frequent  references  to 
the  alcohol  kettle  only  increased  the  thirst-fev(5r  instead 
of  allaying  it.  But  Meek  was  not  alone  in  suffering. 
About  half  way  across  the  scorching  plain  he  discovered  a 
solitaiy  woman's  figure  standing  in  the  trail,  and  two 
riding  horses  near  her,  whose  drooping  heads  expressed 
their  dejection.  On  coming  up  with  this  strange  group, 
Mock  found  the  woman  to  be  one  of  the  missionary  ladies, 
a  Mrs.  Smith,  and  that  her  husband  was  lying  on  the 
ground,  djing,  as  the  poor  sufferer  believed  himself,  for 
water. 

Mrs.  Smith  made  a  weeping  appeal  to  Meek  for  water 
for  her  dying  husband ;  and  truly  the  poor  woman's  situ- 
ation was  a  pitial)le  one.  Behind  camp,  with  no  protec- 
tion from  the  perils  of  the  desert  and  wilderness — only  a 
terrible  care  instead — the  necessity  of  trying  to  save  her 
husband's  life.  A  3  no  water  was  to  be  had,  alcohol  was 
16 


.i:l 
■..% 


'■.(-    1;- 


240 


MKEK   ABUSKS   A    MISSIONAllV 


ofleretl  to  the  famishing  man,  who,  however,  could  not  Lo 
aroused  from  his  stupor  of  wretchedness.  Seeing  that 
death  really  awaited  the  unlucky  missionary  unless  some- 
thing could  be  done  to  cause  him  to  exert  himself,  Meek 
commenced  at  once,  and  with  unction,  to  abuse  the  man 
for  his  unm.inliness.  His  style,  thougli  not  very  refined, 
was  certainly  very  vigorous. 

"You're  a     pretty  fellow  to  be  lying  on  the 

ground  here,  lolling  your  tongue  out  of  your  mouth,  and 
trying  to  die.  Die,  if  you  want  to,  you're  of  no  account 
and  will  never  be  missed.  Here's  your  wife,  who  you 
are  keeping  standing  here  in  the  hot  sun ;  why  don't  she 
die  ?  She's  got  more  pluck  than  a  white-livered  chap  like 
you.  But  I'm  not  going  to  leave  her  waiting  here  for 
you  to  die.  Thar's  a  band  of  Indians  behind  on  the  trail, 
and  I've  been  riding  like  —  to  keep  out  of  their  way. 
If  you  want  to  stay  here  and  be  scalped,  you  can  stay; 
Mrs.  Smith  is  going  with  me.  Come,  modam,"  continued 
Meek,  leading  up  her  horse,  "  let  me  help  you  to  mount, 
for  we  must  get  out  of  this  cursed  country  as  fast  as  pos- 
sible." 

Poor  Mrs.  Smith  did  not  wish  to  leave  her  husband;  nor 
did  she  relish  the  notion  of  staying  to  be  scalped.  Despair 
tugged  at  her  heart-strings.  She  would  have  sunk  to  the 
ground  in  a  passion  of  tears,  but  Meek  was  too  much  in 
earnest  to  permit  precious  time  to  be  thus  wasted.  "  Get 
on  your  horse,"  said  he  rather  roughly.  "  You  can't  save 
your  husband  by  staying  here,  crying.  It  is  better  that 
one  should  die  than  two ;  and  he  seems  to  be  a  worthless 
dog  anyway.     Let  the  Indians  have  him." 

Almost  lifting  her  upon  the  horse.  Meek  tore  the  dis- 
tracted woman  away  from  her  husband,  who  had  yet 
strength  enough  to  gasp  out  an  entreaty  not  to  be  left 


AND    KIDNAPS    HIS    WIFE. 


211 


"You  can  fcjllow  us  if  you  chouse,"  said  the  apparently 
merciless  trapper,  "or  you  can  stay  where  you  arc.  Mrs. 
Smith  can  find  plenty  of  better  men  than  you.  Come, 
in;i(liuu !  "  and  he  gave  the  horse  a  stroke  with  his  riding- 
whip  which  started  him  into  a  rapid  pace. 

The  unhnppy  wife,  whose  conscience  reproached  her 
for  leaving  her  husband  to  die  alone,  looked  back,  and 
saw  liim  raising  his  head  to  gaze  ai>-er  them.  Her  grief 
broke  out  afresh,  and  she  would  ha^e  gone  back  even 
then  to  remain  with  him :  but  Meek  was  firm,  and  again 
started  up  her  horse.  Before  they  were  quite  out  of  sight. 
Meek  turned  in  his  saddle,  and  beheld  the  dying  man  sit- 
ting up.  "Hurrah;"  said  he:  "he's  all  right.  He  Avill 
overtake  us  in  a  little  Avhilc  :  "  and  as  he  predicted,  in 
little  over  an  hour  Smith  came  riding  up,  not  more  than 
half  dead  by  this  time.  The  party  got  into  camp  on 
Green  River,  about  eleven  o'clock  that  night,  and  Mrs. 
Smith  having  told  the  story  of  her  adventures  with  the 
unknown  trapper  who  had  so  nearly  kidnaped  her,  the 
laugh  and  the  cheer  went  round  among  the  company. 
"That's  Meek,"  said  Ematinger,  "you  may  rely  on  that. 
He's  just  the  one  to  kidnap  a  woman  in  that  way."  When 
Mrs.  Smith  fully  realized  the  service  rendered,  she  was 
ahuridantly  grateful,  and  profuse  were  the  thanks  which 
oiu'  trapper  received,  even  from  the  much-abused  husband, 
who  Avas  noAV  thoroughly  alive  again.  Meek  failed  to 
persuade  his  Avife  to  return  with  him.  She  was  homesick 
for  her  people,  and  Avould  go  to  them.  But  instead  of 
turning  back,  he  kept  on  Avith  Ematinger's  camp  as  far  as 
Fort  Hall,  Avhich  post  Avas  then  in  charge  of  Courtenay 
Walker. 

While  the  camp  was  at  Soda  Springs,  Meek  observed 
the  missionary  ladies  baking  bread  in  a  tin  reflector  before 
ii  lire.     Bread  Avas  a  luxu'y  unknown  to  the  mountain- 


242 


MEEKS    BLACK-EYED    DAT'OHrEK. 


man, — and  as  a  sudden  recollection  of  liis  boyhood,  and 
the  days  of  bread-and-butter  came  over  him,  his  month 
began  to  water.  Almost  against  his  will  he  continued  to 
hang  round  the  missionary  camp,  thinking  about  the  bread. 
At  length  one  of  the  Nez  Perces,  named  James,  whom  the 
missionary  had  taught  to  sing,  at  their  request  struck  up 
a  hymn,  which  he  sang  in  a  very  creditable  manner.  As 
a  reward  of  his  pious  proficiency,  one  of  the  ladies  gave 
James  a  biscuit.  A  bright  thought  struck  our  longing 
hero's  brain.  ''Go  back,"  said  ho  to  James,  "and  sing 
another  hymn  ;  and  when  the  ladies  give  you  another  bis- 
cuit, bring  it  to  me."  And  in  this  manner,  he  obtained  a 
taste  of  the  coveted  luxury,  bread — of  which,  during  nine 
years  in  the  mountains  he  had  not  eaten. 

At  Fort  Hall,  Meek  parted  company  with  the  missiona- 
ries, and  with  his  wife  and  child.  As  the  little  black-eyed 
daughter  took  her  departure  in  company  with  this  new 
element  in  savage  life, — the  missionary  society, — her  fa- 
ther could  have  had  no  premonition  of  the  fate  to  whieli 
the  admixture  of  the  savage  and  the  religious  elements 
was  step  by  step  consigning  her.  -  ii>^,. 

After  remaining  a  few  days  at  the  fort.  Meek,  who  found 
some  of  his  old  comrades  at  this  place,  went  trapping  Avith 
them  up  the  Portneuf,  and  soon  made  up  a  pack  of  one 
hundred  and  fifty  beaver-skins.  These,  on  returning  to 
the  fort,  he  delivered  to  Jo.  Walker,  one  of  the  American 
Company's  traders  at  that  time,  and  took  Walker's  receipt 
for  them.  He  then,  with  Mansfield  and  Wilkins,  set  out 
about  the  first  of  September  for  the  Flathead  country, 
where  Wilkins  had  a  wife.  In  their  company  was  an  old 
Flathead  woman,  who  wished  to  return  to  her  people,  and 
took  this  opportunity. 

The  weather  was  still  extremely  warm.  Tt  had  been 
a  season  of  great  drought,  and  the  streams  were  nearly 


A    FKXnVlih   MARCH — INTKIv'Sl^    ISUFFEIMXG. 


243 


nil  on(ir(ily  dried  up.  The  first  night  out,  the  horses, 
(,ii;lit  ill  iiuiidtcr,  stra}'ed  olF  in  search  of  water,  and  were 
1((>,',.  Now  coininenced  a  day  of  fearful  sufferings.  No 
water  had  been  found  since  leaving  the  fort.  The  loss  of 
llic  hoi-scs  made  it  necessary  for  the  company  to  separate 
1(1  look  for  them;  Mansfield  and  Wilkins  going  in  one  di- 
rection, Meek  and  the  old  Flathead  woman  in  another. 
The  little  coolness  and.  moisture  which  night  had  imparted 
to  the  atmosphere  was  quickly  dissipated  by  the  unchecked 
ravs  of  th*^'  pitiless  sun  shining  on  a  dry  and  barren  plain, 
wiili  not  a  vestige  of  verdure  anywhere  in  sight.  On 
aiitl  on  went  the  old  Flathead  woman,  keeping  always  in 
tiic  advance,  and  on  and  on  followed  Meek,  anxiously 
scanning  the  horizon  for  a  chance  sight  of  the  horses. 
Higher  and  higher  mounted  the  sun,  the  temperature  in- 
creasing in  intensity  until  the  great  plain  palpitated  with 
radintod  heat,  and  the  horizon  flickered  almost  like  a 
llame  where  the  burning  heavens  met  the  burning  earth. 
Meek  had  been  drinking  a  good  deal  of  rum  at  the  fort, 
which  circumstance  did  not  lessen  the  ten'ible  consuming 
thirst  that  was  torturing  him.  , 

Noini  came,  and  passed,  and  still  the  heat  and  the  suffer- 
ing  increased,  the  fever  and.  craving  of  hunger  being  now 
added  to  that  of  thirst.  On  and  on,  through  the  whole 
of  that  long  scorching  afternoon,  trotted  the  old  Flathead 
woman  in  the  peculiar  traveling  gait  of  the  Indian  and  the 
mountaineer,  Meek  following  at  a  little  distance,  and  go- 
ing mad,  as  he  thought,  for  a  little  water.  And  mad  he 
probably  was,  as  famine  sometimes  makes  its  victims. 
When  night  at  last  closed  in,  he  laid  down  to  die,  as  the 
missionary  Smith  had  done  before.  But  he  did  not  re- 
member Smith:  he  only  thought  of  water,  and  heard  it 
running,  and  fancied  the  old  woman  was  lapping  it  like  a 
\volf.     Then  he  rose  to  follow  her  and  find  it ;  it  was  al- 


f 


244 


TKE    OLD    FLATHEAD    WOMAN — WATER   AT    LAST. 


ways  just  ahead,  aud  the  woman  was  howling  to  him  to 
show  him  the  trail. 

Thus  the  night  passed,  and  in  the  cool  of  the  early 
morning  he  experienced  a  little  relief.  lie  was  really 
following  his  guide,  wlio  as  on  the  day  before  was  trottiiifj 
on  ahead.  Then  the  thought  possessed  him  to  overtake 
and  kill  her,  hoping  from  her  shriveled  body  to  obtain  a 
morsel  of  ft)od,  and  drop  of  moisture.  But  his  strength 
was  failing,  and  his  guide  so  far  ahead  that  he  gave  np 
the  thought  as  involving  too  great  exertion,  continuing 
to  follow  her  in  a  helpless  aud  hopeless  kind  of  way. 

At  last !  There  was  no  mistake  this  time :  he  heard 
running  water,  and  the  old  woman  loas  lapping  it  like  a 
wolf  With  a  shriek  of  joy  he  ran  and  fell  on  his  face 
in  the  water,  which  was  not  more  than  one  foot  in  depth, 
nor  the  stream  more  than  fifteen  feet  wide.  But  it  had  a 
white  pebbly  bottom ;  and  the  water  was  clear,  if  not  very 
cool.  It  was  something  to  thank  God  for,  which  the  none 
too  religious  trapper  acknowledged  by  a  fervent  "  Thank- 
God!" 

For  a  long  time  he  lay  in  the  water,  swallowing  it,  and 
by  thrusting  his  linger  down  his  throat  vomiting  it  up 
again,  to  prevent  surfeit,  his  whole  body  taking  in  the 
welcome  moisture  at  all  its  million  pores.  The  fever 
abated,  a  feeling  of  health  returned,  and  the  late  perish- 
ing man  was  restored  to  life  and  comparative  happiness. 
The  stream  proved  to  be  Godin's  Fork,  and  here  Meek 
and  his  faithful  old  guide  rested  until  evening,  in  the 
shade  of  some  willows,  where  their  good  fortune  was 
completed  by  the  appearance  of  Mansfield  and  Wilkins 
with  the  horses.  The  following  morning  the  men  found 
and  killed  a  fat  buffalo  cow,  whereby  all  their  wants  were 
supplied,  and  good  feeling  restored  in  the  little  camp. 

From  Godin's  Fork  they  crossed  over  to  Salmon  River, 


mm 


m 


ARRIVAL   AT    THE   INDIAN   VILLAGE. 


245 


and  presently  struck  the  Ncz  Perce  trail  which  loads  from 
tliat  river  over  into  the  Beaver-head  country,  on  the 
Dcaver-head  or  .Tellerson  Fork  of  the  Missouri,  where 
tlicre  was  a  Flathead  and  Nez  Perce  village,  on  or  about 
the  present  site  of  Virginia  City,  in  Montana. 

Not  stopping  long  here.  Meek  and  his  companions  went 
on  to  the  Madison  Fork  with  the  Indian  village,  and  to 
the  shores  of  Missouri  Lake,  joining  in  the  fall  hunt  for 
bufliilo. 


n^, 


ih^.y 


24G 


BUFFALO    iiU.NXLNU. 


CHAPTER     XIX. 


u 


h 


i 
1 


"  Tell  me  all  about  a  biiffiilo  hunt,"  said  the  writer  to 
Joe  Meek,  as  we  sat  at  a  \  iiidow  overlooking  the  Colum- 
bia River,  where  it  has  a  beautiful  stretch  of  broad  waters 
and  curving  wooded  shores,  and  talking  about  mouutain 
life,  "  tell  me  how  you  used  to  hunt  buffalo." 

"  Waal,  there  is  a  good  deal  of  sport  in  runnin'  buffalo. 
When  the  camp  discovered  a  band,  then  every  man  that 
wanted  to  run,  made  haste  to  catch  his  bufililo  horse.  We 
sometimes  went  out  thirty  or  forty  strong ;  sometimes  two 
or  three,  and  at  other  times  a  large  party  started  on  the 
hunt ;  the  more  the  merrier.  Wo  alway  had  groat  banter- 
ing about  our  horses,  each  man,  according  to  his  own 
account,  having  the  best  one. 

"  When  we  fwst  start  we  ride  slow,  so  as  not  to  alarm 
the  buffalo.  The  nearer  we  come  to  the  band  the  greater 
our  excitement.  The  horses  seem  to  feel  it  too,  and  are 
worrying  to  be  off  When  we  come  so  near  that  the  band 
starts,  then  the  word  is  given,  our  horses'  mettle  is  up, 
and  away  we  go ! 

"  Thar  may  be  ten  thousand  in  a  band.  Directly  we 
crowd  them  so  close  that  nothing  can  be  seen  but  dust, 
nor  anything  heard  but  the  roar  of  their  trampling  and 
bellowing.  The  hunter  now  keeps  close  on  their  heels  to 
escape  being  blinded  by  the  dust,  which  does  not  rise  as 
high  as  a  man  on  horseback,  for  thirty  yards  behind  the 
animals.     As  soon  as  we  are  close  enough  the  firing  begins, 


I  *  ?    i-! 


'm 


I  -t  r~i 


'i: 


'.:vv' 


;iS? 


THE    PURSUIT — THE    CHAUOE — TUMBLES. 


247 


mid  iIk'  1)1111(1  is  on  tl»o  run;  and  a  In^rdof  buHulocun  run 
iihoiit  iis  last  as  a  good  race-horse.  How  they  do  thunder 
iildiif;!  They  give  us  a  pretty  sliarp  race.  Talce  care! 
Down  <:()es  a  rider,  and  away  goes  his  horse  with  the  band. 
Do  you  think  we  stopped  to  k>ok  after  the  fallen  m.an? 
Not  wo.  Wo  rather  thought  that  war  fun,  and  if  he  got 
killi'il,  why,  'he  war  unlucky,  that  wai*  all.  Plenty  more 
jufii :  couldn't  bother  about  him.' 

"Tliar's  a  fat  cow  ahead.  I  force  my  way  through  tlie 
build  to  come  up  with  her.  The  bulfalo  crowd  around  so 
ditit  I  have  to  put  my  foot  on  them,  now  on  one  side,  now 
the  otiier,  to  keep  them  off  my  horse.  It  is  lively  work, 
1  ciin  tell  you.  A  man  has  to  look  shar[)  not  to  be  run 
down  by  the  band  pressing  him  on ;  builalo  and  horse  at 
the  top  of  their  speed. 

"Look  out ;  thar's  a  ravine  ahead,  as  you  can  see  by  the 
])liiiigc  which  the  band  makes.  Hold  uj) !  or  somebody 
goes  to  the  d — 1  now.  If  the  band  is  large  it  lills  the 
ravine  full  to  the  brim,  and  the  hindmost  of  the  herd  pass 
over  on  top  of  the  foremost.  It  requires  horseman- 
ship not  to  be  carried  over  without  our  own  consent ;  but 
then  we  mountain-men  are  all  good  horsemen.  Over  the 
ravine  we  go ;  but  we  do  it  our  own  way. 

"We  keep  up  the  chase  for  about  four  miles,  selecting  our 
game  as  we  run,  and  killing  a  number  of  flit  cows  to  each 
man ;  some  more  and  some  less.  "When  our  horses  are 
tired  we  slacken  up,  and  turn  back.  We  meet  the  camp- 
keepers  with  pack-horses.  They  soon  ])utchcr,  pack  up 
the  meat,  and  we  all  return  to  camp,  whar  we  laugh  at 
each  other's  mishaps,  and  eat  fat  meat :  and  this  constitutes 
the  glory  of  mountain  life." 

"  But  you  were  going  to  tell  me  about  the  buffalo  hunt 
at  Missouri  Lake  ?" 

"  Thar  isn't  much  to  telL     It  war  pretty  much  like  other 


,'!  .  'ill 


.•*;> 


248 


A    HUNT    WITH    THE    INDIANS. 


Lufluhj  liunts.  Tliar  war  a  lot  of  ns  trappers  happened  to 
l>o  at  a  Ncz  Pei-cc  and  r'latliead  village  in  the  lall  of  '38, 
\v\wi\  they  war  aguiu' te- kill  winter  meat;  and  as  their 
hunt  lay  in  the  direction  we  war  going,  Ave  joined  in.  Tlie 
old  Ncz  Perce  chief,  Kow-e-so-te  hud  command  of  ihe  vil- 
lage, and  W(!  trappers  had  to  obey  him,  too. 

"  We  started  oil'  slow;  nobody  war  allowed  to  go  ahead 
of  camp.  In  this  manner  we  cansed  the  bullalo  'o  move 
on  before  us.  I'ut  not  to  be  alarmed.  AYe  war  eight  or  ien 
days  traveling  from  the  Boa,ver-head  to  Missouri  Lake,  and 
by  the  time  we  got  tiiar,  the  whole  plain  around  the  lake 
war  crowded  with  bufialo,  and  it  war  a  splendid  sight! 

"In  the  morning  the  old  chief  hnrangued  the  men  of  his 
village,  and  ordered  us  all  to  get  ready  for  the  surround, 
.A.bout  nine  o'clock  every  man  war  mounted,  and  we  began 
to  move. 

"That  v^ar  a  sight  to  make  a  man's  blood  warm!  A 
thousand  men,  all  trained  hunters,  on  horseback,  carrying 
their  gMns,  and  with  their  horses  painted  in  the  height  of 
Indians'  fashion.  We  advanced  until  within  about  half  a 
mile  o^  the  herd ;  then  the  chief  ordered  us  to  deploy  to 
the  right  and  left,  until  the  wings  of  the  column  extended 
a  long  way,  and  advance  again. 

"By  this  time  the  buffalo  war  all  moving,  and  we  had 
come  to  within  a  hundred  yards  of  them.  Kow-e-so-te  then 
gave  us  the  word,  and  away  we  went,  pell-mell.  Heavens, 
what  a  charge  !  What  a  rushing  and  roaring — men  shoot- 
ing, buffalo  I  allowing  and  trampling  until  the  earth  shook 
under  them ! 

"It  war  the  work  of  half  an  hour  to  slay  ivfn  thousand 
or  may  be  three  thousand  animals.  When  the  work  was 
over,  we  took  a  view  of  the  field.  Here  and  there  and 
evervwhere,  laid  the  slain  buffalo.  Occasionallv  a  horse 
with  a  broken  leg  war  seen ;  or  a  .an  with  a  broken  arm; 
or  maybe  he  had  fared  worse,  and  hdd  a  broken  head. 


KIT  CARSOX  AND  THE  FRENCHMAN. 


'  219 


"Now  came  out  the  women  of  the  village  to  liolj)  ns 
liiit  •lier  and  pack  np  the  meat.  It  war  a  l)ig  jol) ;  bnt  wo 
war  not  long  about  it.  By  nigl^  the  camp  war  full  of 
meat,  and  everybody  merry.  Bridger's  camp,  which  war 
passing  that  way,  traded  with  the  village  for  lifteen  huu- 
(Irod  buffalo  tongues — the  tongue  l)eing  reckoned  a  choice 
|iart  (if  the  animal.  And  that's  the  way  we  helped  the 
Xcz  Forces  hunt  buffalo." 

''  l)!it  when  you  were  hunting  for  your  own  subsistence 
in  camp,  you  sometimes  went  out  in  small  parties?" 

"  Oh  yes,  it  war  the  same  thing  on  a  smaller  scale.  One 
time  Kit  Carson  and  myself,  and  .1  little  Frenchnum,  named 
Marteau,  went  to  run  buffalo  on  Powder  River.  When 
wc  came  in  sight  of  the  band  it  war  agreed  that  Kit  and 
the  Frenchman  should  do  the  running,  and  I  should  -^tiiy 
witii  the  pack  animals.  The  weather  war  very  cold  and  I 
(.lidii't  like  my  part  of  the  duty  much. 

"The  Frenchman's  horse  couldn't  run;  so  I  lent  h'm 
mine.  Kit  rode  his  own ;  not  a  good  buffalo  horse  eith<;r, 
In  running,  my  horse  fell  with  the  Frenchman,  and  nea.ly 
Idlled  him.  Kit,  who  couldn't  make  his  horse  catch, 
jumped  off,  and  caught  mine,  and  tried  it  again.  This 
time  he  came  up  with  the  band,  and  killed  four  fat  cows. 

"  When  I  came  up  with  the  pack-animals,  I  asked  Kit 
lioAv  ho  came  by  my  horse.  lie  explained,  and  wanted  to 
know  if  I  had  seen  anything  of  Marteau :  said  my  horse 
hail  fallen  with  him,  and  he  thought  killed  him.  '  You 
go  over  the  other  side  of  yon  hill,  and  see,'  said  Kit. 

"  What'U  I  do  with  him  if  he  is  dead  ?"  said  I. 

'•Can't  you  pack  him  to  camp?" 

"  Pack  —  "  said  I ;  "  I  should  rather  pack  a  load  of 
meat." 

"Waal,"  said  Kit,  "  I'll  butcher,  if  you'll  go  over  and 
see,  anyhow." 


250 


MOUNTAIN    MANNERS. 


"So  I  went  over,  and  found  the  dead  man  leaning liis 
head  on  his  hand,  and  groaning ;  for  he  war  pretty  bad 
hurt.  I  got  him  on  his  horse,  though,  after  a  while,  and 
toolv  liim  back  to  whar  Kit  war  at  worlv.  We  soon  finislipd 
the  butchering  job,  and  started  back  to  camp  with  our 
wounded  Frenchman,  and  tliree  loads  of  fat  meat." 

"  You  were  not  very  conipaysionate  toward  each  other, 
in  the  mountains?" 

"  Thjit  war  not  our  business.  We  had  no  time  for  sncli 
things.  Besides,  live  men  war  what  we  wanted;  df.v: 
ones  war  of  no  account." 


r  t 


THE    SOLITARY   TRAPPEU. 


251 


CHAPTER    XX. 


1838.  From  Missouri  Lake,  Monk  started  alone  for  the 
Galliitiu  Fork  of  the  Missouri,  trapping  in  a  mountain 
basin  called  Gardiner's  Hole.  Beaver  were  plenty  here, 
but  it  wu-i  getting  late  in  the  season,  and  the  weather  was 
cold  in  tiic  mountains.  On  his  return,  in  another  basin 
culled  the  Burnt  Hole,  he  found  a  buffalo  skull;  and 
knowing  tba'  Bridgcr's  camp  would  soon  pass  that  way, 
wrote  on  it  the  number  of  beaver  he  had  taken,  and  also 
lii.^  intention  to  go  to  Fort  Hall  to  sell  them. 

In  a  few  days  the  camp  passing  found  the  skull,  which 
grinned  its  threat  at  the  angry  Booshways,  as  the  chuck- 
ling trapper  had  calculated  that  it  would.  To  prevent  its 
execution  runners  were  sent  after  him,  who,  however, 
failed  to  find  him,  and  nothing  was  known  of  the  supposed 
renegade  for  some  time.  But  as  Bridger  passed  through 
Pierre's  Hole,  on  his  way  to  Green  river  to  winter,  he  was 
surjirisod  at  Meek's  appearance  in  camp.  He  was  soon 
invited  to  the  lodge  of  the  Booshways,  and  called  to  ac- 
count tor  his  .supposed  apostacy. 

Meek,  for  a  time,  would  neither  deny  nor  confess,  but 
put  on  his  free  trapper  airs,  and  laughed  in  the  fiice  of 
the  Booshways.  Bridger,  who  half  Huspccted  some  trick, 
took  the  maUor  lightly,  but  Dripps  was  very  much  an- 
noyed, and  n»ade  some  threats,  at  which  Meek  only 
laugluHJ  the  more.  Finally  the  certificate  from  their  own 
imder,  Js>  Walker,  was  produced,   the  irnw  pack  of  furs 


mimm 


252        AMONG    THE    NEZ    PEUCES ASKING    FOR    A    WIFE. 


surrendered,  and  Dripps'  wrath  turned  into  smiles  of  aii- 
proval. 

Here  again  Meek  parted  company  with  the  main  camp, 
and  went  on  an  expedition  Avith  seven  other  trappers,  un. 
der  Jolm  Larison,  lo  the  Sahnon  River:  but  found  the 
cold  very  severe  on  this  journey,  and  the  grass  scarce  and 
poor,  so  that  f.he  company  lost  most  of  their  horses. 

On  arriving  at  the  Nez  Perce  village  in  the  Forks  of 
the  Salmon,  Meek  found  the  old  chief  Kow-e-so-te  full  of 
the  story  of  the  missionaries  and  their  religion,  and  anx- 
ious to  hear  preaching.  Reports  were  continually  arriv- 
ing by  the  Indians,  of  the  wonderful  things  which  were 
Ix'ing  taught  by  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Spalding  at  L^pwai,  on  the 
Clearwater,  and  at  Waiilatpu,  on  the  Walla- Walla  River 
It  was  now  nearly  two  years  since  these  missions  had  been 
founded,  r.nd  the  number  of  converts  among  the  Nez 
Perces  and  Flatheads  was  already  considerable. 

Here  was  an  opening  for  a  theological  student,  such  as 
Joe  Meek  was!  After  some  little  assumption  of  modesty. 
Meek  intimated  that  he  thought  himself  capable  of  giv- 
ing instruction  on  religious  subjects ;  and  being  pressed 
by  the  chief,  finally  consented  to  preach  to  Xoiv-e-so-ta 
people.  Taking  care  first  to  hold  a  private  council  with 
his  associates,  and  binding  them  not  to  betray  him,  Meek 
preached  his  first  sermon  that  evening,  going  regularly 
through  with  the  ordinary  services  of  a  "meeting." 

These  services  were  repeated  whenever  the  Indian- 
se'.nned  to  desire  it,  until  Chrstraas,  Then,  the  village 
being  about  to  start  upon  a  hunt,  the  preacher  took  occa- 
sion to  intimate  to  the  chief  that  a  wife  would  be  an 
agreeable  present.  To  this,  however,  Kow-e-so-te  (de- 
murred saying  that  Spalding's  religion  did  not  perait 
men  to  have  two  wives :  that  the  Nez  Perces  had  many 
of  them  given  up  their  wives  ou  this  account ;  and  that 


rOLYGAMY    DEFENDED — VIKGINF \. 


253 


tlioroi'iio,  since  Meuk  already  had  one  wife  among  the  Nez 
IVircs,  he  conhl  not  have  nnotlicr  witliont  being  i'alsc  to 
tlio  rehgion  he  professed. 

To  this  perfectly  clepr  argument  Meek  replied,  that 
iMiioiig  white  men,  if  a  man's  wife  left  him  without  his 
consent,  as  his  had  done,  he  could  procure  a  divorce,  and 
take  another  wife.  Besides,  he  could  tell  him  how  the 
hihlc  related  many  stories  of  its  best  men  having  several 
wives.  But  Kow-€-so-fe  was  not  easily  convinced.  He 
could  not  see  how,  if  the  Bible  approved  of  polygamy, 
Spalding  should  insist  on  the  Indians  putting  away  all 
l)ut  one  of  their  wives.  "However,"  says  Meek,  "after 
aliout  two  weeks'  explanation  of  the  doings  of  Solomon 
and  David,  I  succeeded  in  getting  the  chief  to  give  me  a 
young  girl,  Avhom  I  called  Virginia ; — my  present  wife, 
and  the  mother  of  seven  children." 

After  acconjpanying  the  Indians  ai  their  hunt  to  the 
Beavor-head  country,  where  they  found  plenty  of  buffalo, 
Meek  remained  with  the  Nez  Perce  village  until  about  the 
first  of  March,  when  he  again  intimated  to  the  chief  that 
it  was  the  custom  of  white  men  to  pay  their  preachers. 
Accordingly  the  people  were  notified,  and  the  winter's 
salary  began  to  arrive.  It  amounted  altogetlier  to  thir- 
tcoii  horses,  and  many  packs  of  beaver,  beside  sheep-skins 
and  buffalo-robes ;  so  that  he  "  considered  that  with  his 
young  wife,  he  had  made  a  pretty  good  winter's  work 

of  it."' 

In  March  ho  net  out  trapping  again,  in  company  with 
ono  of  his  comrades  named  Allen,  a  man  to  whom  he  was 
much  attached.  They  traveled  along  up  and  down  the 
Salmon,  to  Godin's  Biver,  Henry's  Fork  of  the  Sinike,  to 
Pierre's  Fork,  and  Lewis'  Fork,  and  the  Muddy,  and 
liiially  set  their  trap^  on  a  little  stream  that  runs  out  of 
llio  pass  which  leads  to  Pierre's  Hole. 


wm 


n^ 


254 


SURPRISED    BY    RLACKFEET DEATH    OF    ALLEN. 


Leaving  tlieir  camp  one  moniinp^  to  take  up  their  traps, 
they  were  discovered  and  attacked  hy  a  party  of  Black- 
feet  just  as  they  came  near  tlie  trapping  ground.  The  only 
refuge  at  liand  w»s  a  thickest  of  willows  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  creek,  and  towards  this  the  trappers  directed 
their  flight.  Meek,  who  was  in  advance,  succeeded  in 
gaining  the  thicket  without  being  seen  ;  l)ut  Allen  stum- 
bled and  fell  in  crossing  the  stream,  and  wet  his  gun.  He 
cpiickly  recovered  his  footing  and  crossed  (ver;  but  the 
Blackfeet  had  seen  him  enter  the  thicket,  and  came  up  to 
within  a  short  distance,  yet  not  approaching  too  near  the 
place  where  they  knew  he  was  concealed.  Unfortunately, 
Allen,  in  his  anxietj  to  be  ready  for  defense,  commenced 
snapping  caps  on  his  gun  to  dry  it.  The  quick  ears  of  the 
savages  caught  the  sound,  and  understood  the  meaning 
of  it.  Knowing  him  to  be  defenceless,  they  plunged  into 
the  thicket  after  him,  shooting  him  almost  immediately, 
and  dragging  him  out  still  breathing  to  a  small  prairie 
about  two  rods  awny. 

And  now  commenced  a  scene  which  Meek  was  com- 
pelled to  witness,  and  wliich  he  declares  nearly  made  him 
insane  through  sympathy,  fear,  horror,  and  suspense  as  to 
his  own  fate.  Those  devils  incarnate  deliberately  cut  up 
their  still  palpitating  victim  into  a  hundred  pieces,  each 
taking  a  piece;  accompanying  the  horrible  and  inhuman 
butchery  with  every  conceivable  gesture  of  contempt  for 
the  victim,  and  of  hellish  delight  in  their  own  acts. 

Meek,  who  was  only  concealed  by  the  small  patch  of 
willows,  and  a  pit  in  the  sand  hastily  scooped  out  with 
his  knife  until  it  was  deep  enough  to  lie  in,  was  in  a  state 
of  the  most  fearful  excitement.  All  day  long  he  had  to 
endure  the  horrors  of  his  position.  Every  moment  seemed 
an  hour,  eveiy  hour  a  day,  until  Avhen  night  came,  and  the 
Indians  left  the  place,  he  was  in  a  high  state  of  fever. 


THE   LAST    RENDEZVOUS. 


255 


About  nine  o'clock  that  night  ho  vonturod  to  crcop  to 
till'  cdi^e  of  the  little  prairie,  where  he  lay  and  listened  a 
liMiir  time,  without  hearing  anything  but  the  squirrels 
niiiiiiiig  over  the  dry  leaves;  but  which  he  constantly 
loured  was  the  stealthy  approach  of  the  enemy.  At  last, 
however,  he  summoned  courage  to  crawl  out  on  to  the  open 
(rroiiiid,  and  gradually  to  work  his  way  to  .a  wooded  blulT 
not  fur  distant.  The  next  day  he  found  two  of  his  horses, 
and  with  these  set  out  alone  for  Green  River,  where  the 
American  Company  was  to  rendezvous.  After  twenty-six 
(lays  of  solitary  and  cautious  travel  he  r"ached  the  ap- 
])(iinied  place  in  safety,  having  suffered  fearfully  from  the 
recollection  of  the  tragic  scene  lie  had  witnessed  in  the 
death  of  his  friend,  and  also  from  L^oli"  do  and  want  of 
food. 

The  rendezvous  of  this  year  was  at  Bonneville's  old 
fort  on  Green  River,  and  was  the  last  one  held  in  the 
mountains  by  the  American  Fur  Company.  Beaver  was 
crowing  scarce  d  competition  was  strong.  On  the  dis- 
l)anding  of  the  o-jjupany,  some  went  to  Santa  Fe,  some  to 
f'alifurnia,  others  to  the  Lower  Columbia,  and  a  few  re- 
mained in  the  mountains  trap])ing,  and  selling  their  furs 
to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  at  Fort  Hall.  As  to  the 
leaders,  some  of  them  continued  for  a  few  years  longer  to 
trade  with  the  Indians,  and  others  returned  to  the  States, 
to  lose  their  fortunes  more  easily  far  than  they  made  them. 

Of  the  men  who  remained  in  the  mountains  trapping, 

that  year.  Meek  was  one.     Leaving  his  wife  at  Fort  Hall, 

he  set  out  in  company  with  a  Shawnee,  named  Big  Jim, 

to  take  beaver  on  Salt  River,  a  tributary  of  tht  Snake. 

The  two  trappers  had  each  his  riding  and  his  pack  horse, 

and  at  night  generally  picketed  them  all ;  but  one  night 

Big  Jim  allowed  one  of  his  to  remain  loose  to  graze. 

This  horse,  after  eating  for  some  hours,   came  back  and 
17 


'    '  :M 


25G 


COLD    AND    STARVATION. 


laid  down  boliind  the  other  horses,  and  every  now  and 
then  raised  up  liis  head ;  whieh  slight  movement  at  leiigtli 
aroused  Big  Jim's  attention,  and  his  suspicions  also. 

"My  friend,"  said  he  in  a  whisper  to  Meek,  "Indian 
steal  our  horses." 

"Jump  up  and  shoot,"  was  the  brief  answer. 

Jim  shot,  and  ran  out  to  see  the  result.  Directly  he 
came  back  saying:  "My  friend,  I  slioot  my  horse;  break 
him  neck  ;"  and  Big  Jim  became  disconsolate  over  what 
his  white  comrade  considered  a  very  good  joke. 

The  hunt  was  short  and  not  very  remunerative  in  furs. 
Meek  soon  returned  to  Fort  Hall ;  and  when  he  did  so, 
found  his  new  wife  had  left  that  post  in  company  with  a 
party  under  Newell,  to  go  to  Fort  Crockett,  on  Green 
River, — NewelFs  wife  being  a  sister  of  Virginia's,— on 
learning  which  he  started  on  again  alone,  to  join  that  party. 
On  Bear  lliver,  he  fell  in  with  a  portion  of  that  Quixotic 
band,  under  Farnhaui,  which  was  looking  for  paradise  and 
perfection,  something  on  the  Fourier  plan,  somewhere  in 
this  western  wilderness.  They  had  already  made  the  dis- 
covery in  crossing  the  continent,  that  perfect  disinterest- 
edness was  lacking  among  themselves;  and  that  the 
nearer  they  got  to  their  western  paradise  the  farther  olf  it 
seemed  in  their  own  minds. 

Continuing  his  jounT-y  alone,  soon  nfter  parting  from 
Farnhara,  he  lost  the  hi  "nmer  of  Ills  gun,  wiiich  accident 
deprived  him  of  the  m  lans  of  subsisting  himself,  and  he 
had  no  dried  meat,  nor  provisions  of  any  kind.  The 
Aveather,  too,  was  very  cold,  increasing  the  necessity  for 
food  to  support  animal  heat.  llovv(3ver,  the  deprivation 
of  food  was  one  of  the  accidents  to  which  mountain-men 
were  constantly  liable,  and  one  from  which  he  had  often 
suffered  severely;  therefore  ho  pushed  on,  without  feeling 
any  unusual  alarm,  and  had  arrived  within  fifteen  miles 


SETTING    UP   IN   TRADE, 


257 


of  ili(!  fort  before  ho  yielded  to  the  feeling  of  oxhanstion, 
and  laid  down  beside  the  trail  to  rest.  Whether  he  would 
ever  Iiiivc  finished  the  journey  alone  ho  could  not  tell ;  but 
tortimiitcly  for  him,  he  was  discovered  by  Jo  Walker,  and 
Gordon,  another  acquaintance,  who  chanced  to  pass  that 
wav  toward  the  fort. 

Meek  answered  their  hail,  and  inquired  if  they  had  any- 
.'liin'!"  to  eat.  Walker  replied  in  the  affirmative,  and  got- 
tiiif  down  from  his  horse,  produced  some  dried  bulValo 
meat  which  he  gave  to  the  famishing  trapper.  But  seeing 
tlit>  ravenous  manner  in  which  he  began  to  eat.  Walker 
iiKliiirod  how  long  it  had  been  since  he  had  eaten  any- 
thin;^. 

"  Five  days  since  I  had  a  bite." 

"  Then,  my  man,  you  can't  have  any  more  just  now,"  said 
Walker,  seizing  the  meat  in  alarm  lest  Meek  should  kill 
liiinsolf. 

"It  was  hard  to  see  that  meat  packed  away  again,"  says 
Meek  in  relating  his  sufferings,  "  I  told  Walker  that  if  my 
gun  had  a  hammer  I'd  shoot  and  eat  him.  But  he  talked 
very  kindly,  and  helped  me  on  my  horse,  and  we  all  went 
on  to  the  Fort."  ■ 

At  Fort  Crockett  were  Newell  and  his  party,  the  remain- 
der of  Farnham's  party,  a  trading  party  under  St.  Clair,  who 
owned  the  fort.  Kit  Crrson,  and  a  number  of  Meek's  former 
associates,  including  Craig  and  Wilkins.  Most  of  these 
men,  Othello-like,  had  lost  their  occupation  since  the  dis- 
banding of  (ho  American  Fur  Company,  and  were  much  at 
a  loss  concerning  the  futiii'e.  It  was  agreed  betwen  Newell 
and  Meek  to  lake  what  beaver  they  had  to  Fort  Hall,  to 
trade  for  goods,  and  return  to  Fort  Crockett,  where  they 
wonld  commence  business  on  their  own  account  with  the 
Indians. 

Accordingly  they  set  out,  with  one  other  man  belonging 


i'1 


258 


A    CASK    OF    CON'SCIKNCK. 


1 


.  1 


to  Fiirnhairi's  former  adliorcMits.  Tluiv  traveled  t(j  IIonrv'> 
Fork,  to  lilack  Fork,  wliore  Fort  Hri(l<i:cr  now  is,  to  Bear 
River,  to  Soda  Springs,  and  finally  to  Fort  Hall,  siiU'ciiii" 
much  from  cold,  and  finding  very  little  to  eat  l)y  thewav. 
At  Fort  Hall,  which  was  still  in  charge  of  Courteiiav 
Walker,  Meek  and  Newell  remained  a  week,  when,  liaviiifr 
purchased  their  goods  and  horses  to  pack  them,  theyoiuv 
more  set  out  on  the  long,  cold  journey  to  Fort  Crockett, 
They  had  fifteen  horses  to  take  care  of  and  only  one  assist- 
ant, a  Snake  Indian  called  Al.  The  return  proved  lui 
arduous  and  ditTicult  undertaking.  The  cold  was  very  sp 
vere;  they  had  not  been  able  to  lay  in  a  sufiicient  stock  of 
provisions  at  Fort  llall,  and  game  there  was  none,  on  tliu 
route.  By  the  time  they  arrived  at  Ham's  Fork  the  oiilv 
atom  of  food  they  had  left  was  a  small  piece  of  bacon  whicli 
they  had  been  carefully  saving  to  eat  with  any  poor  meat 
they  might  chance  to  find. 

The  next  morning  after  camping  on  Ham's  Fork  was 
stormy  and  cold,  the  snow  filling  the  air ;  yet  Snake  Al, 
with  a  promptitude  by  no  means  characteristic  of  him,  rose 
early  <and  went  out  to  look  after  the  horse.s. 

"By  that  same  token,"  said  Meek  to  Newell,  "Al  lias 
eaten  ihe  bacon."  And  so  it  proved,  on  investigation. 
Al's  uneasy  conscience  having  acted  as  a  goad  to  stir  him 
up  to  begin  his  duties  in  season.  On  finding  his  corijec 
ture  confirined.  Meek  declared  his  intention,  should  no 
game  be  found  before  next  day  night,  of  killing  and  eat- 
ing Al,  to  get  back  the  stolen  bacon.  But  Providence 
interfered  to  save  Al's  bacon.  On  the  following  afternoon 
the  little  party  fell  in  with  another  still  sualler  but  better 
supplied  party  of  travelers,  comprising  a  Frenchman  and 
his  wife.  These  had  plenty  of  fat  antelope  meat,  wliicli 
they  freely  parted  with  to  the  needy  ones,  whom  also  they 
accompanied  to  Fort  Crockett. 


WAR    UPON    HOIIHK    THIKVES. 


259 


It  was  now  ('liristnms;  and  tho  fostivilios  wliicli  look 
pliit'c  iit  the  Fort  were  attended  with  a  good  deal  of  rnni 
tlriiikin,!^',  in  wl)irh  Meek,  aeeording  to  Ills  custom,  joined, 
;iii(l  as  a  considerable  portion  of  their  stock  in  trade 
consisted  of  this  article,  it  may  fairly  be  presumed  that  , 
tlic  hoine  consumption  of  these  two  "h^ne  traders" 
ainoiuitod  to  the  larger  lialf  of  what  they  had  with  so 
imicli  trotd)le  trans[)()rted  from  Fort  Hall.  In  fact,  "times 
were  l)ad  enough  "  among  the  men  so  suddeidy  thrown 
ii])iiii  tlieir  own  resources  among  the  mountains,  at  a  time 
when  tliat  little  creature,  which  had  made  mountain  lii'e 
tolerable,  or  possible,  was  fast  being  exterminated. 

To  make  matters  more  serious,  some  of  the  worst  of  tho 
now  unemployed  trappers  had  taken  to  a  life  of  thieving 
and  iiiischicf  which  made  enemies  of  the  friendly  Indians, 
and  was  likely  to  prevent  the  better  disposed  from  enjoy- 
ing security  among  any  of  the  tribes.  A  party  of  these 
renegades,  under  a  man  named  Thompson,  went  over  to 
Snake  River  to  steal  horses  from  the  Ncz  Pcrees.  Not 
suceoediiig  in  this,  they  robbed  the  Snake  Indians  of  about 
forty  animals,  and  ran  them  off' to  the  Uintee,  the  Indians 
following  and  complaining  to  the  whites  at  Fort  Crockett 
that  their  people  had  been  robbed  by  wdiite  trappers,  and 
deiiKuiding  restitution. 

Aecordin;  .  ■  "^ndian  law,  when  one  of  a  tribe  offends, 
tlie  whole  ti"ibe  i-  responsible.  Therefore  if  whites  stole 
their  horses  tiiey  iuight  take  vengeance  on  any  whites  they 
met,  unless  the  property  was  restored.  In  compliance 
with  this  well  understood  requisition  of  Indian  law,  a  party  ^ 
was  made  up  at  Fort  Crockett  to  go  and  retake  the  horses,  f 
and  restore  them  to  their  rightful  owners.  This  party 
consisted  of  Meek,  Craig,  Newell,  Carson,  and  twenty-five 
others,  under  the  command  of  Jo  Walker. 

The  horses  were  found  on  an  island  in  Green  K-iver,  the 


\^ 


i:.:::t(^^  '^  ' 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


1^    ^ 


120 

1.8 


^25  ill  1.4    IIIIII.6 


v^ 


<^] 


% 


7 


7 


/SS 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  NY.  M580 

(716)  872-4503 


260 


GREEN    RIVER    CANYON. 


robbers  having  domiciled  themselves  in  an  old  fort  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Uintee.  In  order  to  avoid  having  a  fi4t 
with  the  renegades,  whose  white  blood  the  trappers  wero 
not  anxious  to  spill,  Walker  made  an  effort  to  get  the  horses 
off  the  island  undiscovered.  But  while  horses  and  men 
were  crossing  the  river  on  the  ice,  the  ice  sinking  with 
them  until  the  water  was  knee-deep,  the  robbers  discovered 
the  escape  of  their  booty,  and  charging  on  the  trappers 
tried  to  recover  the  horses.  In  this  effort  they  were  not 
successful ;  while  Walker  made  a  masterly  flank  movement 
and  getting  in  Thompson's  rear,  ran  the  horses  into  the 
fort,  where  he  stationed  his  men,  and  succeeded  in  keep- 
ing the  robbers  on  the  outside.  Thompson  then  com- 
menced giving  the  horses  away  to  a  village  of  Utes  in  the 
neighborhood  of  the  fort,  on  condition  that  they  should 
assist  in  retaking  them.  On  his  side,  Walker  threatened 
the  Utes  with  dire  vengeance  if  they  dared  interfere.  The 
Utes  who  had  a  wholesome  fear  not  only  of  the  trappers, 
but  of  their  foes  the  Snakes,  declined  to  enter  into  the 
quarrel.  After  a  day  of  strategy,  and  of  threats  alterna- 
ted with  arguments,  strengthened  by  a  warlike  display, 
the  trappers  marched  out  of  the  fort  before  the  faces  of 
the  discomfitted  thieves,  taking  their  booty  with  them, 
which  was  duly  restored  to  the  Snakes  on  their  return  to 
Fort  Crockett,  and  peace  secured  once  more  with  that 
people. 

Still  times  continued  bad.  The  men  not  knowing  what 
else  to  do,  went  out  in  small  parties  in  all  directions  seek 
ing  adventures,  which  genernlly  were  not  far  to  find.  On 
one  of  these  excursions  Meek  went  with  a  party  down  the 
canyon  of  Green  River,  on  the  ice.  For  nearly  a  hundred 
miles  they  traveled  dov.  n  this  awful  canyon  without  find- 
ing but  one  place  where  they  could  have  come  out;  and 
left  it  at  last  at  the  mouth  of  the  Uintee. 


m^mff^m'^ 


RUNNING  ANTELOPES. 


261 


This  passed  the  time  until  March.  Then  the  company 
of  Nowcll  and  Meek  was  joined  by  Antoine  Rubideau, 
who  had  brought  goods  from  Sante  Fe  to  trade  with  the 
hidians.  Setting  out  in  company,  they  traded  along  up 
Green  River  to  the  mouth  of  Ham's  fork,  and  camped. 
The  snow  was  still  deep  in  the  mountains,  and  the  trappers 
found  great  sport  in  running  antelope.  On  one  occasion 
a  large  herd,  numbering  several  hundreds,  were  run  on  to 
the  ice,  on  Green  River,  where  they  were  crowded  into 
an  air  hole,  and  large  numbers  slaughtered  only  for  the 
cruel  sport  which  they  afforded. 

But  killing  antelope  needlessly  was  not  by  any  means 
the  worst  of  amusements  practiced  in  Rubideau's  camp. 
Thiit  foolish  trader  occupied  himself  so  often  and  so  long 
in  playing  Hand,,  (an  Indian  game,)  that  before  he  parted 
with  his  new  associates  he  had  gambled  away  his  goods, 
his  horses,  and  even  his  wife;  so  that  he  returned  to  Santa 
Fe  nnich  poorer  than  nothing — since  he  was  in  debt. 

On  the  departure  of  Rubideau,  Meek  went  to  Fort  ITall, 
and  remained  in  that  neighborhood,  trapping  and  trading 
for  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  until  about  the  last  of 
June,  when  he  started  for  the  old  rendezvous  places  of  the 
American  Companies,  hoping  to  find  some  divisions  of  them 
at  least,  on  the  familiar  camping  ground.  But  his  journey 
was  in  vain.  Neither  on  Green  River  or  Wind  River, 
where  for  ten  years  he  had  been  accustomed  to  meet  the 
loaders  and  their  men,  his  old  comrades  in  danger,  did  he 
find  a  wand(;ring  brigade  even.  The  glory  of  the  Ameri- 
can eonij)an;es  was  departed,  and  he  found  himself  solitary 
among  his  long  familiar  haunts. 

\\  ith  many  melancholy  reflections,  the  man  of  twenty- 
oiirht  years  of  age  recalled  how,  a  mere  boy,  he  had  fallen 
half  unawares  into   the  kind  of  life  he  had  ever  since 


'.,■1 


262 


REFLECTIONS   AND    UALF-UESOLVES. 


li 


led  amongst  the  mountains,  with  only  other  men  equally 
the  victims  of  circumstance,  and  the  degraded  savages,  for 
his  companions.  The  best  that  could  be  made  of  it, 
such  lil'e  had  been  and  must  be  constantly  deteriorating 
to  the  minds  and  souls  of  himself  and  his  associates. 
Away  from  all  laws,  and  refined  habits  of  living;  awav 
from  the  society  of  religious,  modest,  and  accomplished 
women ;  always  surrounded  by  savage  scenes,  and  forced 
to  cultivate  a  taste  for  barbarous  things — what  had  this 
life  made  of  him  ?  what  was  he  to  do  with  himself  in  the 
future? 

Sick  of  trapping  and  hunting,  with  brief  intervals  of 
carousing,  he  felt  himself  to  be.  And  then,  even  if  he 
were  not,  the  trade  was  no  longer  profitable  enough  to 
support  him.  What  could  he  do?  where  could  he  go? 
Ho  remembered  his  talk  .vith  Mrs.  Whitman,  that  fair, 
tall,  courteous,  and  dignified  lady  who  had  stirred  in  him 
longings  to  return  to  the  civilized  life  of  his  native  state. 
But  he  felt  unfit  for  the  society  of  such  as  she.  Would 
he  ever,  could  he  ever  attain  to  it  now  ?  He  had  prom- 
ised her  he  might  go  over  into  Oregon  and  settle  down. 
But  could  he  settle  down  ?  Should  he  not  starve  at  try- 
ing to  do  what  other  men,  mechanics  and  farmers,  do? 
And  as  to  learning,  he  had  none  of  it;  there  was  no  hope 
then  of  "living  by  his  wits,"  as  some  men  did — missiona- 
ries and  artists  and  school  teachers,  some  of  whom  he  had 
met  at  the  rendezvous.  Heigho!  to  be  checkmated  in 
life  at  twenty-eight,  that  would  never  do. 

At  Fort  Hall,  on  his  return,  he  met  two  more  missiona- 
ries and  their  wives  going  to  Oregon,  but  these  four  did 
not  aflect  him  pleasantly ;  he  had  no  mind  to  go  with 
them.  Instead,  he  set  out  on  what  proved  to  be  his  last 
trapping  expedition,  with  a  Frenchman,  named  Mattileau. 


T 


1 


THE   LAST    TRAPPING    EXPEDITION, 


2G3 


Tlicy  visited  the  old  trapping  grounds  on  Pierre's  Fork, 
Lewis'  Lake,  Jackson's  River,  Jackson's  Hole,  Lewis 
River  and  Salt  River:  but  beaver  were  scarce;  and  it 
was  with  a  feeling  of  relief  that,  on  returning  by  way 
of  Bear  River,  Meek  heard  from  a  Frenchman  whom 
he  met  there,  that  he  was  wanted  at  Fort  llall,  by  his 
fi-iend  Newell,  who  had  something  to  propose  to  him.      .  ■ 


^ 


v/ 


.■M.:^\ 


mmm 


264 


A.  NEW   aTAllI   IN    LliJi. 


CHAPTER    XXI. 


?H' 


1 


1840.  When  Meek  arrived  at  Fort  Hall,  where  Newell 
was  awaiting  liiiii,  he  found  that  the  latter  had  there  the 
two  wagons  whieh  Dr.  Whitman  had  left  at  the  points  on 
the  journey  where  further  transportation  by  their  means 
had  been  pronounced  impossible.  The  Doctor's  idea  of 
finding  a  passable  wagon-road  over  the  lava  plains  and 
the  heavily  timbered  mountains  lying  between  Fort  Hall 
and  the  Columbia  River,  seemed  to  Newell  not  so  wild  a 
one  as  it  wjis  generally  pronounced  to  be  in  the  moun- 
tains. At  all  events,  he  was  prep^ired  to  undertake  tlio 
journey.  The  wagons  were  put  in  traveling  order,  and 
horses  and  mules  purchased  for  the  expedition. 

"  Come,"  said  Newell  to  Meek,  "we  are  done  with  this 
life  in  the  mountains — done  with  wading  in  beaver-dams, 
and  freezing  or  starving  alternately — done  with  Indian 
trading  and  Indian  fighting.  The  fur  trade  is  dead  in  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  and  it  is  no  place  fc*  us  now,  if  ever  it 
was.  We  are  young  yet,  and  have  life  before  us.  We 
cannot  waste  it  here  ;  we  cannot  or  will  not  return  to  the 
States.  Let  us  go  down  to  the  Wallamet  and  take  farms. 
There  is  already  quite  a  settlement  there  made  by  the 
Methodist  Mission  and  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  re- 
tired servants. 

"  I  have  had  some  talk  with  the  Americans  who  have 
gone  down  there,  and  the  talk  is  that  the  country  is  going 
to  be  settled  up  by  our  people,  and  that  the  Hudson's 


THE    MOUNTAIN-MKN    AS    PIONEERS. 


205 


Biiv  Company  are  not  going  to  rule  this  country  niiicli 
loiwer.     What  do  you  say,  Meek  ?     Shall  we  turn  Ameri- 
can settlers  ?" 
"I'll  go  where  you  do,  Newell.     What  suits  you  suits 

me. 

'•  I  thought  you'd  say  so,  and  that's  why  I  sent  for  you, 
Mi'C'k.     In  my  Avay  of  thinking,  a  white  man  is  a  little 

better  than  a  Canadian  Frenchman.     I'll  be    if  I'll 

hang  'round  a  post  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.  So 
you'll  go '?" 

"  I  reckon  I  will !  What  have  you  got  for  me  to  do  ? 
/  haven't  got  anything  to  begin  with  but  a  wife  and 
baby!" 

'•  Well,  you  can  drive  one  of  the  wagons,  and  take  your 
family  and  traps  along.  Nicholas  will  drive  the  other, 
and  rU  play  leader,  and  look  after  the  train.  Craig  will 
go  also,  so  we  shall  be  quite  a  party,  with  what  strays 
we  shall  be  sure  to  pick  up." 

Thus  it  was  settled.  Thus  Oregon  began  to  receive 
her  first  real  emigrants,  who  were  neither  fur-traders  nor 
missionaries,  but  true  frontiersmen  —  border-men.  The 
training  which  the  mountain -men  had  received  in  the 
service  of  the  fur  companies  admirably  fitted  them  to  be, 
what  afterwards  they  became,  a  valuable  and  indispensa- 
ble element  in  the  society  of  that  country  in  whose  pe- 
culiar history  they  played  an  important  part.  But  we 
must  not  anticipate  their  acts  before  we  have  witnessed 
their  gradual  transformation  from  lawless  rangers  of  the 
wilderness,  to  law-abiding  and  even  law-making  and  law- 
c.xecuting  citizens  of  an  isolated  territory. 

In  order  to  understand  the  condition  of  things  in  the 
Wallumet  Valley,  or  Lower  Columbia  country,  it  will  be 
necessary  to  revert  to  the  earliest  history  of  that  territory, 
as  sketched  in  the  first  chapter  of  this  book.     A  history 


l:M 


:  11 


i 


'•M- 


W. 


1  I'lJ 


8 

4*1 


im^x 


266 


CAPTAIN    tJllAY    OF    Tllli    SIIII'    COLUMBIA, 


1 


of  the  fur  companies  is  a  history  of  Oregon  up  to  the 
year  18.'{4,  so  far  as  the  occupation  of  the  country  wus 
concerned.  ]Jut  its  political  history  was  begun  long  be- 
fore— from  the  time  (May  lltli,  1792)  when  the  captain 
of  a  New  EngUind  coasting  and  fur-trading  vessel  entered 
the  great  "  River  of  the  West,"  which  nations  had  boon 
hjoking  for  for  a  hundred  years.  At  the  very  time  when 
the  incpiisitive  Yankee  was  heading  his  little  vessel  through 
the  white  line  of  breakers  at  the  mouth  of  the  long-sought 
river,  a  British  exploring  expedition  was  scanning  the 
shore  between  it  and  the  Straits  of  Fuca,  having  wisely 
declared  its  scientific  opinion  that  there  was  no  such  river 
on  that  coast.  Vancouver,  the  chief  of  that  expedition, 
so  assured  the  Yankee  trader,  whose  views  did  not  agree 
Avith  his  own  :  and,  Yankee-like,  the  trader  turned  back 
to  satisfy  himself 

A  bold  and  lucky  man  was  Captain  Gray  of  the  ship 
Columbia.  No  explorer  he — only  an  adventurous  and, 
withal,  a  prudent  trader,  with  an  eye  to  the  main  chance; 
emulous,  too,  perhaps,  of  a  little  glory !  It  is  impossible 
to  conceive  how  he  could  have  done  this  thing  calmly. 
We  think  his  stout  heart  must  have  shivered  somewhat, 
both  with  anticipation  and  dread,  as  he  ran  for  the  "  open- 
ing," and  plunged  into  the  frightful  tumult — straight 
through  the  proper  channel,  thank  God !  and  sailed  out 
on  to  the  bosom  of  that  beautiful  bay,  twenty-five  miles 
by  six,  which  the  great  river  forms  at  its  mouth. 

We  trust  the  morning  was  fine  :  for  then  Captain  Gray 
must  have  beheld  a  sight  which  a  discoverer  should  re- 
member for  a  lifetime.  This  magnificent  bay,  surrounded 
by  lofty  hills,  clad  thick  with  noble  forests  of  fir,  and 
fretted  along  its  margin  with  spurs  of  the  highlands,  form- 
ing other  smaller  bays  and  coves,  into  which  ran  streams 
whose  valleys  were  hidden  among  the  hills.    From  beyond 


DIHCOVERV    OF    TIIK    COLUMHIA. 


2G7 


(lie  fiuiliost  point,  whoso  dark  ridge  juttod  across  this  in- 
land sea,  ilowod  down  tho  deep,  l)road  river,  whose  course 
and  origin  was  still  a  magnificent  mystery,  hnt  which  in- 
dicated by  its  volnme  that  it  drained  a  mighty  region  of 
niohalde  great  fertility  and  natliral  wealth.  Perhaps  Cap- 
tain (rray  did  not  fully  realize  the  importance  of  his  dis- 
covery. If  the  day  was  line,  with  a  blue  sky,  and  tlie 
purple  shadows  lying  in  among  the  hills,  with  smooth 
water  before  him  and  the  foamy  breakers  behind — if  he 
felt  what  his  discovery  was,  in  point  of  importance,  to 
the  world,  ho  was  a  proud  and  happy  man,  and  enjoyed 
tho  reward  of  his  daiing. 

The  only  testimony  on  that  head  is  the  simple  entry  on 
Ills  log-book,  telling  us  that  he  had  named  the  river  "  Co- 
lumbia s  River ^''  —  with  an   apostrophe,  that  tiny    point 


intimating  much. 


This  was  one  ground  of  the  American 


claim,  though  Vancouver,  after  Gray  had  reported  his 
success  to  him,  sent  a  lieutenant  to  explore  the  river,  and 
then  claimed  the  discovery  for  England  !  The  next  claim 
of  the  United  States  upon  the  Oregon  territory  was  by 
virtue  of  the  Florida  treaty  and  the  Louisiana  purchase. 
These,  and  the  general  one  of  natural  boundaries,  Eng- 
land contested  also.  Hence  the  treaty  of  joint  occupancy 
for  a  term  of  ten  years,  renewable,  unless  one  of  the  parties 
to  it  gave  a  twelve-month's  notice  of  intention  to  with- 
draw. Meantime  this  question  of  territorial  claims  hung 
over  the  national  head  like  the  sword  suspended  by  a 
hair,  which  statesmen  delight  in  referring  to.  We  did 
not  dare  to  say  Oregon  was  ours,  because  we  were  afraid 
England  would  make  war  on  us ;  and  England  did  not 
dare  say  Oregon  was  hers,  for  the  same  reason.  There- 
fore "joint-occupancy"  was  the  polite  word  with  which 
statesmen  glossed  over  the  fact  that  Great  Britain  actually 
possessed  the  country  through  the  monopoly  of  the  Hud- 


-'I 


2G8 


PLANS    FOR    COLONIZING    OllEOON. 


son's  Bay  Company.  That  company  had  a  good  tiling  so 
]()n<^'  as  the  fj^overnincnt  of  (ircat  Britain  prevented  any 
outbreak,  by  simply  renewing  the  treaty  every  ten  years. 
Their  manner  of  doing  business  was  such  as  to  prevent 
any  less  powerful  corporation  from  interfering  with  them, 
wliile  individual  enterprise  was  sure  to  be  crushed  at  the 
start. 

Meanwhile  the  Yankee  nation,  some  members  of  which 
at  one  time  had  vessels  tratling  on  the  northwest  coast, 
became  uneasy  at  this  state  of  affairs.  Since  the  war  of 
1812  and  the  failure  of  Astor's  expedition,  their  vessels 
had  been  driven  oil'  that  coast,  or  had  been  fain  to  con- 
tent themselves  with  picking  up  cargoes  of  hides  and  tal- 
low i'roin  the  Indian  missions  in  California.  It  was  not  in 
Yankee  nature  to  stand  this  foreign  monopoly.  As  if 
they  had  not  land  enough  on  the  eastern  side  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  they  began  to  expatiate  on  the  beau- 
ties and  excellencies  of  the  country  which  lay  beyond. 

As  early  as  1817,  even  before  the  obnoxious  Conven- 
tion, a  Bostonian  school  teacher,  named  Hall  J.  Kelly,  had 
conceived  the  idea  of  colonizing  the  Oregon  territory. 
He  labored  to  impress  others  with  the  views  which  he 
held,  and  formed  many  emigration  schemes,  besides  me- 
morializing Congress  on  the  subject,  as  well  as  the  legisla- 
ture of  his  own  State.  Finally,  in  1831,  he  succeeded  in 
getting  the  Legislature  of  Massachusetts  to  pass  an  act 
incorporating  the  "  American  Society  for  Encouraging  the 
Settlement  of  the  Oregon  Territory^''''  and  a  large  number 
of  persons  became  members.  But  the  fur  companies, 
American  as  well  as  British,  steadily  discouraged  all  efforts 
which  were  directed  towards  the  settlement  of  the  cov- 
eted territory,  so  that  nothing  was  accomplished  by  the 
above  named  society  ;  and  at  length,  in  1832,  Kelly  sent 
out  two  young  men  only,   for  the  country  west  of  the 


■nil)    HUDSON  8    BAY    COMPANY    DKNOl'NCKI). 


209 


Rdckv  Mountains.  On  arriving  at  Fort  Vancouver  tlioy 
IouikI  the  same  diiriculties  in  tlieir  way  which  ])r('ventod 
Wyeth  and  IJonncvilie  from  succeedhig.  In  trulli,  tiieir 
caso  was  worse,  for  there  was  nothing  for  them  to  (h),  and 
if  tliore  had  been,  they  would  not  have  be(Mi  permitted 
tu  do  it,  except  in  the  service  of  the  Hudson's  Hay  Com- 
pany. For  the  first  winter,  one  of  them,  a  Mr.  Ball,  was 
employed  as  teacher  of  the  half-breed  childrcMi  at  the 
Fort.  The  following  spring,  Ball  and  his  companion, 
Tibbits,  began  farming.  This,  however^  proving  unprofit- 
able Ijiisiness  in  a  country  where  there  was  no  market, 
Hall  I'eturncd  to  the  States,  and  Tibbits  remained  to  teach 
the  school  at  Fort  Vancouver.  In  the  meantime,  Kelly 
was  trying  to  organize  an  expedition  to  proceed  by  sea. 
This  also  failed  to  be  successful,  through  the  inaction  of 
the  general  government  and  the  antagonism  of  the  fur 
ooiiipiinios.  Persisting  in  his  plan  of  colonizing  Oregon 
and  ()})oning  commerce  on  the  west  coast,  Kelly  went  to 
Mexico  and  endeavored  to  open  a  trade  between  that  coun- 
try and  Ore^j^on.  But  the  Mexican  revenue  officers  re- 
morsolossly  robbed  him  of  a  large  share  of  the  goods  he 
was  taking  to  Oregon,  so  that  by  the  time  he  arrived  at 
Fort  Vancouver  there  was  little  or  nothing  left  of  his 
stock  in  trade,  while  he  was  broken  down  in  health  and 
spirits.  Like  Wyeth,  he  returned  home  without  having 
been  able  to  realize  any  one  of  his  many  schemes  of 
profit.  .         •-    '    .■■ .  .  ■-..-  •••-■•  -  •;-(* 

Such  was  the  experience  of  all  who  in  that  early  day 
attempted  to  oppose  themselves  to  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company.  For  this  reason  all  these  adventurers  exe- 
crated its  influence,  and  denounced  everything  British. 
The  truth  was,  however,  that  the  case  would  have  been 
just  the  same  had  it  been  an  American  company  which 
occupied  the   Columbia  River,   so  far  as  their  fortunes 


^H 


Ki 


270 


FIRHT    MISSlOXAIUKft    TO    TIIK    WALLAMET. 


were  {'()iic(!rno{l.  Any  conipimy,  to  succeed  in  that  far 
of!*  wiMernesH  eoiuitry,  must  have  done  just  us  the  Vav. 
lisli  conipanv  did  do.  To  enter  into  competition  anions 
the  Indians  was  to  ruin  the  trade  for  all  concerned,  to  in- 
duce misunderstandings  with  the  savage.-*,  and  finally  to 
devastate,  instead  of  settling  up,  the  country.  This  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company  understood,  and  they  would 
rather  lose  money  by  trying  to  keep  other  traders  out, 
than  to  make  it  for  a  little  while  by  competing  with 
them.  • 

But  "man  proposes  and  God  disposes."     In  1834,  the 
Methodist  Episcopal  Board  of  Missions  sent  out  fouv  mis- 
sionaries to  labor  among  the  liidians      These  were  two 
preachers,  the  Rev.  Messrs.   Jason  and  Daniel  Lee,  aud 
two  lay  members,   Cyrus   Shepard  and   P.   L.   Edwards. 
These  gentlemen  were  liberally   furnished  with  all  the 
necessaries  and  comforts  of  life  by  the  Board,  in  addition 
to  which  they  received  the  kindest  attentions  and  consid- 
eration from  the  ofBcers  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  at 
Vancouver.     Their  vessel,  the  May  Dacre,  Captain  Lam- 
bert,  had  arrived  safely  in   the  river  with  the  mission 
goods.     The   gentlemen  at  Vancouver  encouraged  their 
enterprise,  and  advised  them  to  settle  in  the  Wallamet 
valley,  the  most  fertile  tract  of  country  west  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains.     Being  missionaries,  nothing  was  to  be  feared 
from  them  in  the  way  of  trade.     The  Wallamet  valley 
was  a  good  country  for  the  mission — at  the  same  time  it 
was  south  of  the  Columbia  River.     This  latter  considera- 
tion was  not  an  unimportant  one  with  the  Hudson's  B?y 
Company,  it  being  understood  among  those  in  the  confi- 
dence of  the  British  government,  that  in  case  the  Oregon 
territory  had  to  be  divided  with  the  United  States,  the 
Columbia  River  would  probably  be  made  the  northern 
boundary  of  the  American  possesrio  v  .     The  missionaries 


THE   POLITICAL   HISTOUY   OF   ORKOON. 


271 


Wm^f  content  to  settle  south  of  the  Cohiinbia,  all  "went 


wc 


11. 


Tlioso  tliroo  points  were  what  the  Tludson's  Buy  Cnvn- 
pany  must  insist  upon,  so  far  as,  under  the  terms  of  the 
trcjity,  tiu.'y  coukl  do  :  first,  that  the  Americans  occupy- 
in"'  the  country  jointly  with  them,  sliould  not  attempt  to 
triuliMvitli  the  Indians;  secoiullj,,  hat  they  should  con- 
lino  tlnnuselves  to  agricultural  puj'.  nits  and  missioiuiry 
labor;  and  tliirdly,  that  the  set  tiers  should  keep  to  the 
sduthside  of  the  Columbia.  2'.ot  that  the  servants  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company  conlined  themselves  to  the  north 
side  of  this  probable  boundary  ;  f»n  the  contrary,  the  re- 
tired servants  of  that  company  had  begun  to  settle  in  the 
Wallamet  valley  in  1831. 

We  have  said  that  the  political  history  of  Oregon  began 
near  the  close  of  the  last  century.  As  early  as  the  winter 
of  1820-21,  the  first  proposition  was  made  in  Congress 
for  the  occupation  and  settlement  of  the  Columbia  River. 

"It*  was  made  by  Dr.  Floyd,  a  representative  from  Virj^inia,  a  man  of 
ability,  and  stronf^ly  imbued  with  western  feelings,  from  a  long  residence  in 
iuntiicky.  It  refjiiiri'd  both  energy  and  courage  to  embr.ace  a  subj'>ct  which 
Hcmcd  lii(('iy  to  bring  more  riilicule  than  credit  to  its  advm'atc.  lie  took  up 
till'  idi'ii  iiom  s(tni(!  essays  of  Mr.  Benton's,  which  had  been  pul)lished  the  year 
|ii('vi()ii.<.  lie  had  also  made  the  acquaintance  of  Mr.  Russell  Farnham  and 
Mr.  Rnmscy  Crooks,  who  had  been  in  the  emjiloj-mct  of  Astor  in  founrling 
tlio  colony  at  Astoria.  lie  resolved  to  bring  forward  the  question  of  occupa- 
tion, and  did  so.  He  moved  for  a  select  committee  to  consider  and  report  upon 
till'  siilywt.  'llie  conunittee  was  granted  by  the  House,  more  thrtugh  courtesy 
to  a  respected  niembor,  than  with  any  view  to  business  results.  It  was  a  com- 
mittee of  three,  himself  chairman  ai-cording  to  a  parliamentary  rule,  and 
Tliomas  Metcalf  of  Kentucky,  and  Thomas  V.  Sweat-ingen  of  Virginia,  both, 
like  iiiniself,  ardent  men,  and  strong  in  wctern  feeling  Tliey  reported  a  bill 
within  six  days  after  the  committee  was  ruls.  1,  "  to  authorize  the  occupation 
of  the  Columbia  River,  and  to  regtilate  trade  and  intercourse  with  the  Indian 
trihes  thereon."  In  their  report  they  represented  the  advantages  of  the  fur 
trade,  the  Asiatic  trade,  and  the  preservation  of  our  own  territory.     Nothing 


*  From  Benton's  Thirty  Years  in  Congress. 


18 


;  51 


■t   liK'ttil 


"li 


1     i 


27: 


EXTRACTS   FROM 


"  THIRTY    YEARS    IN    CONGRESS." 


furtluT  was  done  at  that  session,  but  enough  had  been  said  to  awaken  public 
attention,  and  the  facts  set  forth  in  the  report  made  a  lodgement  in  the  public 
mind." 

At  a  subsequent  session,  both  Floyd  and  Benton  pur- 
sued the  subject  with  ardor,  and  the  latter  dwelt  strongly 
on  the  danger  of  a  contest  with  Great  Britain,  to  whom 
had  been  granted  joint  occupancy,  and  who  had  already 
taken  possession  ;  and  reminded  the  Government  "  that  a 
vigorous  etFort  of  policy,  and  perhaps  of  arms,  might  be 
necessary  to  break  her  hold."  Unauthorized  or  individual 
occupation  was  intimated  as  a  consequence  of  government 
neglect,  and  what  has  since  taken  place  was  foreshadowed 
in  the  following  sentence  :  "Mere  adventurers  may  enter 
upon  it,  as  ^neus  entered  upon  the  Tiber,  and  as  our 
forafathers  came  upon  the  Potomac,  the  Delaware,  and 
the  Hudson,  and  renew  the  phenomenon  of  individuals 
laying  the  foundations  of  future  empire."  He  predicted 
the  intercourse  with  China  and  Japan  which  has  since  fol- 
lowed, and  prophesied  that  the  overflowing  population  of 
those  countries  would  seek  our  Pacific  shores, 

Mr.  Benton  said,  when  the  subject  of  the  joint  occupa- 
tion treaty  was  before  the  House  in  1825  : — 

"  The  claim  of  Great  Britain  is  nothing  but  a  naked  pretension,  founded  on 
the  double  prospect  of  benefitting  herself  and  injuring  the  United  States.  The 
fur-trader.  Sir  Alexander  McKenzie,  is  at  the  bottom  of  this  policy.  Failiug 
in  his  attempt  to  explore  the  Columbia  River  in  1 793,  he  nevertheless  urged 
upfHi  the  British  government  the  advantages  of  taking  it  to  herself,  and  of  ex- 
pelling the  Americans  from  the  whole  region  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 
lie  recommended  that  the  Hudson's  Bay  and  Northwest  companies  should  be 
united,  and  they  have  been  united.  He  jjroposed  to  extend  the  for  trade  to 
the  Pacific  Ocean,  and  it  has  been  so  extended.  He  proposed  that  a  chain  of 
trading  posts  should  be  formed  through  the  continent,  from  sea  to  sea,  and  it 
has  been  formed.  He  recommended  that  no  boundary  line  should  be  formed 
which  did  not  give  the  Columbia  River  to  the  British,  and  the  British  Min-  try 
declare  that  none  other  shall  be  formed.  He  proposed  to  obtain  the  command 
of  the  fur  trade  from  latitude  45°  North,  and  they  have  it,  even  to  the  Mandan 


BEXTOX    ON    THE    OHEGON    CLAIMS. 


273 


\illa'i<'S  anJ  tli^  nein;l»borhoo(l  V)f  Council  RliifTs.  He  rccommendod  the  expul- 
sion of  ilu'  Anu'rican  tratlcrs  from  tlu-  whole  region  west  of  the  lloeky  ^loun- 
taiiis.  anil  tlK-y  are  expelled  from  it." 

Ill  addition  to  the  influence  of  the  fur  companies,  polit- 
ical considerations  also  governed  Great  Britain  in  acquiring 
possession  of  the  Northwest  coast,  and  the  command  of 
the  Pacific  Ocean. 

In  a  Pacific  Railroad  speech  which  Mr.  Benton  made  at 
Brunswick,  Mo.,  thirty  years  later,  there  occurs  this  para- 
uTii})li: 

"I  oaup;ht  the  idea  (of  a  Paoific  Railroad)  fi-om  Mr.  Jefferson,  who  in  his 
nu'ssajie  to  Congress  proposing  the  expedition  of  Lewis  and  Clarke,  jjresented 
the  commercial  communication  as  the  leading  object,  and  the  one  which  gave 
(oiiiri'ss  the  Constitutional  jurisdiction  in  the  case;  and  the  extension  of  geo- 
.'r.ilihical  science  as  the  incident  to  tiie  pursuit  of  that  main  object.  That  was 
bi't'ore  we  accjuired  Oregon,  or  set  up  any  claim  to  territory  on  the  Pacific 
Ocuan."  .  ■■■.,' 


From  these  extracts  it  will  appear  that  while  the  fur 
Coinpaiiies  were  contending  for  the  occupation  of  the 
Oregon  territory,  and  had  finally  parceled  it  off  as  we  have 
already  seen, — the  American  companies  keeping  in  and 
abuut  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany excluding  them  from  the  country  west  of  the  Blue 
-Mountains,  while  that  which  laid  between  had  been  con- 
tested ground, — two  governments  were  equally  active  and 
studious  in  their  efforts  to  substantiate  their  claims. 

But  it  was  not,  after  all,  either  the  fur  companies  or 
tbe  general  government  which  directed  the  entering 
wedge  in  the  settlement  of  the  much-tc:lked-of  claims. 
It  was  the  missionary  settlements  which  effected  this. 

There  was  nothing  in  the  character  of  the  Christian 
Missionary's  labor  which  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  could 
possibly  object   to  without  a  palpable  violation  of  the 


im 


;     t 


I: 


274 


mi.    JOHN    MCLAUGHLIN. 


THE  MISSIOXAKT 
WEDGE. 


Convention  of  1818.  Therefore,  al- 
though the  Methodist  mission  in  the 
Wulkiniet  Yalley  received  a  large  ac- 
cession to  its  numbers  in  1837,  they 
were  as  kindly  welcomed  as  had  been 
those  of  1834 ;  and  also  those  Pres- 
byterian missionaries  of  1836,  who  had 
settled  in  the  "upper  country." 

Not  an  immigrant  entered  Oregon 
in  that  day  Avho  did  not  proceed  at 
once  to  Vancouver:  nor  was  there 
one,  in  any  way  deserving,  who  did 
not  meet  with  the  most  liberal  and 
hospitable  treatment.  Neither  was  this  hospitality  a  tri- 
fling benefit ;  to  the  weary  traveler  just  arrived  from  a 
long  and  most  fatiguing  journey,  it  was  extremely  wel- 
come and  refreshinp,-.  At  Vancouver  was  the  only  society. 
and  the  only  luxurious  living  to  be  enjoyed  on  the  whole 
Northwest  coast. 

At  the  head  of  the  first  was  Dr.  John  McLaughlin,  al- 
ready mentioned  as  the  Chief  Factor,  and  Deputy  Gov- 
ernor of  the  Hudson's  Ba}'  Company  in  Oregon,  and  all  the 
Northwest.  He  was  of  Scotch  origin,  and  Canadian  birth. 
a  gentleman  bred,  with  a  ciiaracter  of  the  highest  integ- 
rity, to  which  were  united  justice  and  humanity.  His  po- 
sition as  head  of  the  Hudson's  Bny  Company's  affairs,  was 
no  enviable  one  during  that  period  of  Oregon  history 
which  followed  the  advent  of  Americans  in  the  Wallamet 
.  Valley.  Himself  a  British  subject,  and  a  representative 
of  that  powerful  corporation  which  bent  the  British  Gov- 
ernment to  its  will,  he  was  bound  to  execute  its  commands 
when  they  did  not  conflict  too  strongly  with  his  conscious- 
ness of  right  and  justice.     And  while  he  was  williug  and 


^•i«i^^»np 


r 


HOSPITALITIES    OP   FORT    VANCOUVER. 


275 


anxious  to  do  his  duty  towards  the  company  he  served, 
circumstances  arose,  and  occasions  grew  out  of  those  cir- 
cumstances which  tried  his  k)yalty,  integrity,  and  humanity, 
to  tlic  utmost.  One  course,  however,  he  steadily  pursued, 
wliicli  was  that  of  a  beneficent  friend  toward  all  who  de- 
served his  friendship,  and  many  who  did  not,  in  all  private 
and  personal  matters.  Hence  of  the  many  who  went  to 
Vancouver,  all  were  kindly  re'ceived ;  and  every  man  of 
any  intelligence  or  position  among  the  Americans  was 
most  hospitably  treated,  not  only  by  himself  but  by  all  the 
factors,  traders,  and  clerks  of  the  establishment.  It  often 
happened  in  the  early  days  of  Oregon  that  sonif  of  the 
most  prominent  Americans  were  not  decently  clad,  through 
tlieir  inability  to  procure  clothing  suitable  to  their  posi- 
tion. But  the  seat  of  honor  at  the  Chief  Factor's  table 
was  reserved  with  as  much  punctiliousness  for  these  rag- 
ged pioneers,  as  if  thoy  had  come  clad  in  beautiful  rai- 
ment. Nor  were  finger  bowls  and  napkins  withh(3ld  from 
the  use  of  soiled  and  blackened  pioneer  fingers.  Wine, 
and  good  cheer,  and  cultivated  conversation,  were  freely 
offered  and  enjoyed.  There  was  nothing  in  the  line  of  his 
duty  which  prevented  Dr.  McLaughlin  from  exercising 
private  hospitality  and  gentlemanly  courtesy  toward  the 
Americans.  A  man  of  religious  feeling  himself,  he 
fipectcd  the  motive  which  was  presumed  to  actuate  the 
missionaries.  To  be  sure,  he  had  been  educated  in  the 
Ivoman  Catholic  doctrines ;  but  yet  he  was  not  unwilling 
that  the  Protestants  should  entertain  and  disseminate 
their  own  religious  views.  As  a  representative  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company  he  had  one  duty  to  execute :  as  a 
Christian  gentleman,  another.  That  these  separate  dutie=i 
sometimes  conflicted  will  appc  "  ^"^  the  course  of  this  nar- 
rative.    So  far,  however,  as  eucouragiug  the  missionaries 


276 


EARLY   SETTLERS   IN   THE    WALLAMET    VALLEY. 


ill  their  undertakings  was  concerned,  he  did  not  hold  then 
to  be  conflicting ;  not,  at  all  events,  until  they  undeceived 
him,  by  entering  upon  secular  enterprises. 

As  has  been  stated,  the  Methodist  mission  settlement  wi  s 
reinforced  in  1837,  by  the  arrival  of  about  twenty  persons, 
among  whom  were  several  ladies,  and  a  few  children. 
These,  like  those  preceding  them,  were  first  entertained  at 
Fort  Vancouver  before  proceeding  to  the  mission,  which 
was  between  fifty  and  sixty  miles  up  the  Wallamet,  in  the 
heart  of  that  delightful  valley.  These  persons  came  bv  a 
sailing  vessel  around  Cape  Horn,  bringing  with  them  sup- 
plies for  the  mission.  ^[fef.7 

In  the  two  following  years  there  were  about  a  dozen 
missionary  arrivals  overland,  all  of  whom  tarried  a  short 
time  at  the  American  Company's  rendezvous,  as  before  re 
lated.  These  were  some  of  them  designed  for  the  upper 
country,  but  most  of  them  soon  settled  in  the  Wallamet 
valley. 

Durhig  these  years,  between  1834  and  1840,  there  had 
drifted  into  the  valley  various  persons  from  California,  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  and  from  the  vessels  which  sometimes 
appeared  in  the  Columbia ;  until  at  the  time  when  Newell 
and  Meek  resolved  to  quit  the  mountains,  the  American 
settlers  numbered  nearly  one  hundred,  men,  women,  ....J 
children.  Of  these,  about  thirty  belonged  to  the  missions; 
tie  remainder  were  mountain-men,  sailors,  and  adventur- 
ers. The  mountain-men,  most  of  them,  had  native  wives. 
Besides  the  Americans  there  were  sixty  Canadian  French- 
men, who  had  been  retired  upon  farms  by  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company ;  and  who  would  probably  have  occupied 
these  farms  so  long  as  the  II,  B.  Company  should  have 
continued  to  do  business  in  Oregon, 

With  the  American  mountain-men  it  was,  however,  difior- 
ent.     It  was  the   fact  of  the  mission  havina:  been  estab- 


IMPORTATION   OP    CATTLE. 


277 


lisliecl  there,  with  all  the  means  and  appliances  of  a  settle- 
ment iiide})enclent  of  the  H.  B.  Company,  which  induced 
them  to  remain  and  settle  also  upon  farms.  They  looked 
to  the  Mission  to  become  to  them,  what  Fort  Vancouver 
^vns  to  the  Canadians,  a  supply  station ;  an  expectation 
wliic'h  was  only  half  fulfilled,  as  will  be  seen  hereafter. 

Tlie  Missionaries  themselves  had  been  compelled  to  de- 
pond  upon  Fort  Vancouver  for  many  things,  and  among 
otlicrs  for  cattle,  and  milch  cows.  It  was  a  matter  of  seri- 
ous complaint  among  the  American  settlers  that  the  H.  B. 
Company  would  sell  none  of  their  stock.  Lend  it  they 
■ffould ;  sell  it  they  would  not.  This  effort  on  the  part  of 
the  company  to  retain  a  monopoly  in  so  important  an  ele- 
ment of  civilized  comfort  as  oxen,  beef-cattle,  and  milch 
cows,  created  much  ill  feeling  for  a  time,  as  it  cramped 
the  means  of  productive  labor  excessively. 

But  in  1837  there  appeared  in  the  Columbia  river  the 
U.  S.  Brig  Lonof^  Captain  Slocum,  on  an  errand,  of 
observation.  Upon  learning  from  the  settlers  that  no 
cattle  could  be  procured  in  Oregon,  Captain  Slocum 
encouraged  a  plan  which  was  then  on  foot,  of  send- 
ing to  California  for  a  supply  of  Spanish  stock.  To 
further  this  enterprise  he  contributed  fifteen  dollars,  and 
oil'ov^d  a  free  passage  to  such  persons  as  wished  to  go  to 
Cali!uinia  on  this  errand.  The  way  being  thus  opened,  a 
meeting  of  the  settlers  was  held,  and  shares  taken  in  what 
was  called  the  "California  Cattle  Company."  Whatever 
may  have  been  the  feelings  of  the  H.  B.  Company,  they 
olTered  no  direct  opposition :  on  the  contrary,  Dr.  Mc 
Laughlin  took  several  shares  in  the  Cattle  Company,  on 
his  own  account.  The  expedition  was  headed  by  Mr.  P.  L. 
Kdwards  of  the  Methodist  mission,  and  Mr.  Ewing  Young 
of  the  American  settlement.  Young  was  of  the  same 
class  as  the  mountain-men,  and  had  in  fact  been  a  trader 


viHi' 


I 

•■a 


278 


DISTRIBUTION    OV    SETTLERS. 


lit ' 


at  Taos  in  New  Mexico ;  after  which  lie  had  led  a  hniitin? 
and  trapping  party  through  California;  and  had  accompa- 
nied Kelly  in  his  journey  to  Oregon  in  18i}5.  He  was 
just  the  man  to  conduct  an  expedition  such  as  this  one; 
;  though  the  Mission  thought  it  necessary  to  send  ^Ir.  Ed- 
wards along  to  look  out  for  the  funds  of  the  company. 
The  expedition  set  sail  in  January,  and  returned  by  land 
in  the  autumn,  with  several  hundred  head  of  cattle ;  hav- 
ing met  wiuh  some  loss  of  stock,  by  an  attack  from  the 
Rogue  River  Indians,  or  Shastas, — the  same  tribe  who  at- 
tacked Smith's  party  in  1829.  The  cattle  were  then 
divided  up  among  the  settlers  according  to  the  shares  pre- 
viously taken ;  those  who  went  to  California  receiving  pay 
for  their  services  out  of  the  herd.  This  importation  of 
cattle  placed  the  American  colony,  for  such  it  now  really 
was,  on  a  more  independent  footing,  besides  furnishing  a 
means  for  the  rapid  acquisition  of  wealth. 

The  distribution  of  settlers  was  as  follows :  the  mission 
proper,  about  fifty-two  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the 
Wallamet ;  the  Canadian  settlement  ten  or  twelve  miles 
below  the  mission,  and  Wallamet  Falls,  or  as  it  afterwards 
was  called,  Oregon  City.  At  this  latter  place  Dr.  McLaugh- 
lin, as  early  as  1829,  had  begun  the  ereotion  of  a  mill,  and 
had  continued  to  make  improvements  from  time  to  time, 
up  to  1840,  when  some  members  of  the  Mission  applied 
to  him  for  permission  to  erect  a  building  for  mission  pur- 
poses upon  the  land  claimed  and  improved  by  the  Doctor. 
This  request  was  granted,  together  with  another  for  the 
use  of  some  timbers  already  squared  for  building,  which 
had  been  *  itended  for  the  mill.  At  the  same  time  that 
Dr.  McLav  lilin  made  these  generous  concessions  to  the 
mission  gentlemen,  he  notified  them  that  he  intended  to 
claim  the  land  already  improved  by  him,  so  soon  as  the 
boundary  line  was  drawn  by  a  proper  survey. 


WESTWAllD   ho! — TUE   FIRST   WAGON   KOAD. 


279 


CHAPTER    XXII. 


When  it  was  settled  that  Newell  and  Meek  were  to  ero 
to  the  Wallamet,  they  lost  no  time  in  dallying,  but  packed 
the  wagons  with  whatever  they  possessed  in  the  way  of 
worldly  goods,  topped  them  with  their  Nez  Perce  wives 
and  half-breed  children,  and  started  for  "Walla- Walla,  ac- 
companied by  Craig,  another  mountain-ma'i,  and  either 
followed  or  accompanied  by  several  others.  Meek  drove 
a  five-in-hand  team  of  four  horses  and  one  mule.  Nicho- 
kis  drove  the  other  team  of  four  horses,  and  Newell,  who 
owned  the  train,  was  mounted  as  leader. 

The  journey  was  no  easy  one,  extending  as  it  did  over 
immense  plains  of  lava,  round  impassable  canyons,  over 
rapid  unbridged  rivers,  and  over  mountains  hitherto  be- 
lieved to  be  only  passable  for  pack  trains.  TJie  honor 
which  has  heretofore  been  accorded  to  the  Presbyterian 
missionaries  solely,  of  opening  a  wagon  road  from  the 
Piocky  Mountains  to  the  Columbia  River,  should  in  justice 
be  divided  with  these  two  mountaineers,  who  accomplished 
the  most  difficult  part  of  this  difficult  journey. 

Arrived  at  Fort  Boise,  a  post  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany, the  little  caravan  stopped  for  a  few  days  to  rest  and 
recruit  their  animals.  With  the  usual  courtesy  of  that 
Comjxany,  Mr.  Payette,  the  trader  in  charge,  offijred  New- 
ell quarters  in  the  fort,  as  leader  of  his  party.  To  Meek 
and  Craig  who  were  encamped  outside,  be  sent  a  piece  of 
sturgeon  with  his  compliments,  which  our  incipient  Ore- 


,1 


i 
f 

,5 


I;- 
i  ■ 


'  ^  liiv 

'          T 

•T'TBCT; 

"            ■:          '".        T 

'''Hfe 

'"  19!^ 

1 
i         , 

'ti 

jnff 


280 


WAIILATPU IIELKN    MAR. 


gonians  sent  back  again  -vvith  their  compliments.  No 
Hudson's  Bay  distinctions  of  rank  for  them  !  No,  indeed! 
The  moment  tliat  an  American  commenced  to  think  of 
himself  as  a  settler  on  the  most  remote  corner  of  Ameri- 
can soil,  that  moment,  as  if  by  instinct,  he  began  to  defend 
and  support  his  republicanism. 

After  a  few  days'  rest,  the  party  went  on,  encountcriii<r, 
as  might  be  expected,  much  dilliculty  and  toil,  but  arriviiii: 
safely  after  a  reasonable  time  at  the  Columbia  River,  at 
the  junction  of  the  Umatilla.  Here  the  wagons  and  stock 
were  crossed  over,  and  the  party  proceeded  directly  to 
Di".  Whitman's  mission  at  Waiilatpu.  Dr.  Whitman  gave 
them  a  friendly  reception  ;  killing  for  them,  if  not  the  fat- 
ted calf,  the  fattest  hog  he  had ;  telling  Meek  at  the  same 
time  that  "fat  pork  was  good  for  preachers,"  referring  to 
Meek's  missionary  labors  among  the  Nez  Perccs. 

During  the  three  vears  since  the  commencement  of  the 
mission  at  Waiilatpu  considerable  advancement  had  been 
made  in  the  progress  of  civilization  among  the  Cayuses. 
Quite  a  number  of  Indian  children  were  domesticated  with 
Mrs.  Whitman,  who  were  rapidly  acquiring  a  knowledge 
of  housekeeping,  sewing,  reading,  and  writing,  and  farm 
labor.  With  Mrs.  Wliitman,  for  whom  M(  ek  still  enter- 
tained great  admiration  and  respect,  he  resolved  to  leave 
his  little  girl,  Helen  Mar ;  the  fruit  of  his  connexion  with 
the  Nez  Perce  Avoman  who  persisted  in  abandoning  him  in 
the  mountains,  as  already  related.  Having  thus  made 
provision  for  the  proper  instruction  of  his  daughter,  and 
conferred  with  the  Doctor  on  the  condition  of  the  Ameri- 
can settlers  in  Oregon  —  the  Doctor  being  an  ardent 
American — Meek  and  his  associates  started  once  more  for 
the  Wallamet. 

At  Walla- Walla  Newell  decided  to  leave  the  wagons, 
the  weather  having   become  so  rainy  and  disagreeable  as 


-.Jil': 


^^^^m 


THE    DALLES    MISSION — INDIAN    PUAYKKS. 


281 


to  make  it  doubtful  about  fretting  tli(nii  over  the  Casciiilo 
Mouiitiiins  tliat  fall.  Accordingly  the  goods  wore  traus- 
Ibrrc'd  to  pack-horses  for  tlio  remainder  of  the  journey. 
Ill  tlio  following  year,  however,  one  of  the  Wiigons  was 
brougiit  down  by  Newell,  and  taken  to  the  plains  on  the 
Tiialiitiii  River,  being  the  first  vehicle  of  the  kind  in  the 
Wallainet  Valley. 

On  arriving  at  the  Dalles  of  the  Columbia,  our  moun- 
tain inon  found  that  a  mission  had  been  established  at  that 
place  for  the  conversion  of  th.(jse  inconscionable  thieves, 
tlie  Wish-ram  Indians,  renowned  in  Indian  history  for  their 
acquisitiveness.  This  mission  was  under  the  charge  of 
Daniel  Lee  and  a  Mr.  Perkins,  and  was  an  oil'shoot  of  the 
Methodist  Mission  in  the  \Vallamet  Val'  -y.  These  gentle- 
men having  found  the  benighted  condition  of  the  Indians 
to  exceed  their  powers  of  enliglitment  in  any  ordinary 
way,  were  having  recourse  to  extraordinary  efforts,  and 
were  carrying  on  what  is  commonly  termed  a  revival^' 
though  what  piety  there  was  in  the  hearts  of  these  savages 
to  be  revived,  it  would  be  difficult  to  determine.  How- 
over,  they  doubtless  hoped  so  to  wrestle  with  God  them- 
selves, as  to  compel  a  blessing  upon  their  labors. 

The  Indians  indeed  were  not  averse  to  prayer.  They 
could  pray  Avillingly  and  sincerely  enough  when  they  could 
hope  for  a  speedy  and  actual  material  answer  to  their 
prayers.  And  it  was  for  that,  and  that  only,  that  they 
importuned  the  Christian's  God.  Finding  that  their 
prayers  were  not  answered  according  to  their  desire,  it  at 
length  became  difficult  to  persuade  them  to  pray  at  all. 
Sometimes,  it  is  true,  they  succeeded  in  deluding  the  mis- 
sionaries with  the  belief  that  they  were  really  converted, 
for  a  time.  One  of  these  most  hopeful  converts  at  the 
Dalles  mission,  being  in  want  of  a  shirt  and  capote,  volun- 
teered to  "  pray  for  a  whole  year,"  if  Mr.  Lee  would  fur- 
nish him  with  these  truly  desirable  articles. 


lUvJ 


.iij 


!  : 


mmm 


282 


THE    IMPiOUH    CANADIAN. 


It  is  no  wonder  that  with  sudi  h()j)elo.ss  material  to  work 
upon  the  Dalles  niissionarie.s  withdrew  from  them  a  portion 
of  their  zeal,  and  bestowed  it,  where  it  was  quite;  as  much 
needed,  upon  any  "stray  mountain-man"  wlio  ehancedlo 
be  entertained  "within  their  j^ates."  Newell's  purtv, 
among  others,  received  the  well-meant,  but  not  always 
well-received  or  ai)preciated  attentions  of  these  gentlemen. 
The  American  mountaineer  was  not  likely  to  be  suddenly 
surprised  into  praying  in  earnest;  and  he  generally  hml 
too  much  real  reverence  to  be  found  making  a  jest  in  the 
form  of  a  mocking  prayer. 

Not  so  scrupulous,  however,  was  Jandrcau,  a  lively 
French  Canadian,  w:io  was  traveling  in  company  with  the 
Americans.  On  being  repeatedly  importuned  to  prav, 
with  that  tireless  zeal  which  distinguishes  the  Metlicdist 
preacher  above  all  others,  Jandrcau  appeared  suddenly  to 
be  smitten  with  a  consciousness  of  his  guilt,  and  kneeling 
in  the  midst  of  the  'meeting,'  began  with  clasped  hands 
and  upturned  eyes  to  pour  forth  a  perfect  torrent  of  words. 
With  wonderful  dramatic  power  he  appeared  to  confess, 
to  supplicate,  to  agonize,  in  idiomatic  French.  His  tears 
and  ejaculations  touched  the  hearts  of  the  missionaries, 
and  filled  them  with  gladness.  They  too  ejaculated  and 
wept,  with  frequently  uttered  "Amens"  and  "hallelujahs," 
until  the  scene  became  highly  dramatic  and  exciting.  In 
the  midst  of  this  grand  tableau,  when  the  enthusiasm  was 
at  its  height,  Jandrcau  suddenly  ceased  and  rose  to  his  feet, 
while  an  irrepressible  outburst  of  laughter  from  his  asso- 
ciates aroused  the  astonished  missionaries  to  a  partial  cora- 
prehension  of  the  fact  that  they  had  been  made  the  subjects 
of  a  practical  joke,  though  they  never  knew  to  exactly 
how  great  an  extent.  '• , 

The  mischievous  Frenchman  had  only  recited  with  tndy 
artistic  power,  and  with  such  variations  as  the  situation 


-r,^ 


JANDUKAU  CALLED  TO  AN  ACCOUNT. 


283 


oif-rrested,  one  of  the  most  woiKlorful  aiitl  cflcctive  talcs 
from  tliL'  Arahinn  Ni(jhtH  Eidertainmcni,  with  which  lie 
was  wont  to  dchght  and  auiuso  his  comrades  beside  the 
wiiitor  c!iiiip-rirc! 

J)iit  .liuuh'oau  was  called  to  account  when  ho  arrived  at 
Vancouver.  Dr.  McLan<^hlin  had  heard  the  story  from 
poiiio  of  the  party,  and  resolved  to  punish  the  man's  irrev- 
erence, at  tno  same  time  that  he  gave  himself  a  bit  of 
aninsemcnt.  Sending  for  the  Rev.  Father  lUanchet,  who 
was  thou  resident  at  Vancouver,  he  informed  him  of  the 
eircunistance,  and  together  they  arranged  Jandreau's  pun- 
ishment, lie  was  ordered  to  appear  in  their  united  pres- 
ence, and  make  a  true  statement  of  the  aflair.  Jandreau 
conlbssud  that  he  had  done  what  he  was  .iccused  of  do- 
ing— made  a  mock  of  prayer,  and  told  a  tale  instead  of 
oU'ering  a  supplication.  He  was  then  ordered  by  the  Rev. 
Father  to  rehearse  the  scene  exactly  as  it  occurred,  in  or- 
der that  he  might  judge  of  the  amount  of  his  guilt,  and 
apportion  him  his  punishment. 

Trembling  and  abashed,  poor  Jandrc  fell  upon  his 
knees  and  began  the  recital  with  much  trepidation.  But 
as  he  proceeded  he  warmed  with  the  subject,  his  dramatic 
instinct  asserted  itself,  tears  streamed,  and  voice  and  eyes 
snpplicated,  until  this  second  representation  threatened  to 
outdo  the  first.  With  outward  gravity  and  iuAvard  mirth 
bis  two  solemn  judges  listened  to  the  close,  and  when  Jan- 
dreau rose  quite  exhausted  from  his  knees.  Father  Blan- 
chet  hastily  dismissed  him  with  an  admonition  and  a 
h'glit  })cnance.  As  the  door  of  Dr.  McLaughlin's  office 
closed  behind  him,  not  only  the  Doctor,  but  Father  Blan- 
chet  indulged  in  a  burst  of  long  restrained  laughter  at 
the  comical  absurdities  of  this  impious  Frenchman.      mr  Ai 

To  return  to  our  immigrants.  On  leaving  the  Dalles 
they  proceeded  on  down  the  south  side  of  the  river  as  far 


(       ¥.  .A 


I  • 


i 


284 


DOWN- THE   COLUMHTA. 


as  |)rac'ti('itl)lo,  or  opjxjsito  to  iho  Wind  Mountain.  At  tliLs 
point  tlu!  IndiaiiH  assisted  to  cross  tlioni  over  to  the  north 
side,  when  tliey  af^ain  nnide  tiieir  way  ah)ng  the  river  as 
far  as  Tea  J^rairia  above  Vancouver.  The  weatlicr  wiia 
execrable,  with  a  pouring  rain,  and  sky  of  dismal  gray; 
December  being  already  far  advanced.  Our  travelers 
were  not  in  the  best  of  humors:  indeed  a  saint-like  amia- 
bility is  s(>ldom  found  in  conjunction  with  rain,  mud,  fa- 
tigue, and  an  empty  stomach.  Some  ill-natured  susi)icions 
were  uttered  to  the  ed'ect  that  the  Indians  who  were  assist- 
ing to  cross  the  party  at  this  point,  had  stolen  some  ropes 
that  were  missing. 

Upon  this  dishonorable  insinuation  the  Indian  heart  was 
fired,  and  a  light  became  imminent.  This  undesirable  cli- 
max to  emigrant  woes  was  however  averted  by  an  attack 
upon  the  indignant  natives  with  firebrands,  when  they 
})rudently  retired,  leaving  the  travelers  to  pursue  their 
way  in  peace.  It  was  on  Sunday  that  the  weary,  dirty, 
hungiy  little  procession  arrived  at  a  place  on  the  Walla- 
met  River  where  the  present  town  of  Milwaukie  is  situa- 
ted, and  found  here  two  missionaries,  the  Rev.  Messrs. 
Waller  and  Beers,  who  were  preaching  to  the  Indians. 

Meek  immediately  applied  to  Mr.  Waller  for  some  pro- 
visions, and  received  for  answer  that  it  was  "Sunday." 
Mr.  Waller,  however,  on  being  assured  that  it  was  no  more 
agreeable  starving  on  Sunday  than  a  week-day,  finally  al- 
lowed the  immigrants  to  have  a  peck  of  small  potatoes, 
But  as  a  party  of  several  persons  could  not  long  subsist  on 
so  short  allowance,  and  as  there  did  not  seem  to  be  any 
encouragement  to  expect  more  from  the  missionaries,  there 
was  no  course  left  to  be  pursued  but  to  make  an  appeal  to 
Fori  Vancouver. 

To  Fort  Vancouver  then,  Newell  went  the  next  day, 
and  returned  on  the  following  one  with  some  dried  sal- 


1! 


mim^mm 


DEl'KNDEXUE   ON    FOUT    VArCOUVEIl. 


285 


moil,  toa,  sugar,  and  sea-broafcl.  Tt  was  not  (luite  wliat  tlio 
iiioiiiilaiii-nu'ii  could  luivu  wishod,  this  dcpundeiico  on  the 
Hiidsoir.s  Bay  Company  for  iood,  and  did  not  ([uito  af^^roe 
witlnvliat  tiicy  iiad  said  wlicn  thoir  hearts  wr-ro  big  in  the 
iiiounlaiiis.  IJcin^  patriollv;  on  a  full  stomach  is  easy  com- 
pared to  being  the  same  thing  on  an  empty  one;  a  truth 
which  became  more  and  more  apparent  as  tlie  wint(.'r  pro- 
gressed, and  the  new  settlers  found  that  if  they  would  eat 
they  must  ask  food  of  some  person  or  persons  outside  of 
the  iMi^thodist  Mission.  And  outside  of  that  tlun'c  was  in 
all  the  country  only  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  and  a 
lew  mountain-men  like  themselves,  who  had  brought  noth- 
ing into  the  country,  and  could  get  nothing  out  of  it  at 
pres(,'iit. 

There  was  but  short  time  in  which  to  consider  what 
was  to  be  done.  Newell  and  Meek  went  to  Wallamet 
Falls,  the  day  after  Newell's  return  from  Vancouver,  and 
there  met  an  old  comrade.  Doughty,  who  was  looking  for 
a  place  to  locate.  The  three  made  their  camp  together 
on  the  west  side  of  the  river,  on  a  hill  overlooking  the 
Falls.  While  in  camp  they  were  joined  by  two  other 
Rocky  Mountain  men,  Wilkins  and  Ebbarts,  who  were  also 
looking  for  a  place  to  settle  in.  There  were  now  six  of 
the  Rocky  Mountain  men  together ;  and  they  resolved  to 
push  cut  into  the  plains  to  the  west  of  them,  and  see  what 
could  be  done  in  tho  matter  of  selecting  homes. 

As  for  our  hero,  we  fear  we  cannot  say  much  of  him 
here  which  would  serve  to  render  him  heroic  in  criticising 
Yankee  eyes.  He  was  a  mountain-man,  and  that  only. 
He  had  neither  book  learning,  nor  a  trade,  nor  any  knoAvl- 
edge  of  the  simplest  aifairs  apper*  '-^ing  to  the  ordinary 
ways  of  getting  a  living.  He  h;„J.  only  his  strong  hands, 
and  a  heart  naturally  stout  and  light.  •     ,  _;/ 

His  friend  Newell  had  the  advantage  of  him  in  several 


li 


*9 


1 

\    J 

1 

1 

i 
i 

.;>■:■ 

1::.,, 

286 


THE   TUALATIN   PLAINS. 


particulars.  IIg  had  rather  more  book-knowledge,  more 
business  experience,  and  also  more  means.  With  thes^e 
advantages  he  became  a  sort  of  "Booshway"  among  his 
old  comrades,  who  consented  to  follow  his  lead  in  the  im- 
jDortant  movement  about  to  be  made,  and  settle  in  the 
Tualatin  Plains  should  he  decide  to  do  so. 

Accordingly  camp  was  raised,  and  the  party  proceeded 
to  the  Plains,  where  they  arrived  on  Christmas,  and  went 
into  camp  again.  The  hardships  of  mountain  life  were 
light  compared  to  the  hardships  of  this  winter.  For  in 
the  mountains,  when  the  individual's  resources  were  ex- 
hausted, there  was  always  the  Company  to  go  to,  which 
was  practically  inexhaustible.  Should  it  be  necessary,  the 
Company  was  always  willing  to  become  the  creditor  of  a 
good  mountain-man.  And  the  debtor  gave  himself  no 
uneasiness,  because  he  knew  that  if  he  lived  he  could  dis- 
charge his  indebtedness.  But  everything  was  different 
now.  There  was  no  way  of  paying  debts,  even  if  there 
had  been  a  company  willing  to  give  them  credit,  which 
there  was  not,  at  least  among  Americans.  Hard  times 
they  had  seen  in  the  mountains ;  harder  times  they  were 
likely  to  see  in  the  valley ;  indeed  were  already  experi- 


encing. 


Instead  of  fat  buffalo  meat,  antelojie,  and  mountain 
mutton,  which  made  the  plenty  of  a  camp  on  Powder 
River,  our  carniverous  hunters  were  reduced  to  eating 
daily  a  little  boiled  wheat.  In  this  extremity.  Meek  went 
on  aii  expedition  of  discovery  aci  .lis  the  Lighlauds  that 
border  the  Lower  Wallamet,  and  found  on  Wappatoo 
(now  Sauvis)  Island,  a  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Baldra  living,  ^rho 
were  in  the  service  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.,  and 
drew  rations  from  them.  With  great  kindness  they 
divided  the  provisions  on  hand,  furnishing  him  with  dried 
salmon  and  sea-bread,  to  which  he  added  ducks  and  swans 


A    DISAGUEEABLE    WINTER. 


287 


procured  from  the  Indians.  Poor  and  scanty  as  -was  the 
supi>ly  t^^^^^  obtained,  it  was,  after  boiled  wlieat,  compara- 
tive luxury  while  it  lasted. 

1841.  The  winter  proved  a  very  disagreeable  one. 
Considerable  snow  fell  early,  and  went  oft"  with  heavy 
rains,  flooding  the  whole  country.  The  little  camp  on 
the  Tualatin  Plains  had  no  defence  from  the  weather  bet- 
ter than  Indian  lodges,  and  one  small  cabin  built  by 
Donglity  on  a  furmer  visit  to  the  Plains  ;  for  Doughty  had 
been  one  of  the  first  of  the  mountain-men  to  come  to  the 
Wallamet  on  the  breaking  up  of  the  fur  companies.  In- 
dian lodges,  or  no  lodges  at  all,  were  what  the  men  were 
used  to ;  but  in  the  dryer  climate  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains it  had  not  seemed  such  a  miserable  life,  as  it  now 
did,  where,  for  months  together,  the  ground  was  saturated 
with  I'ain,  while  the  air  was  constantly  charged  with 
vapor.  ■.'■• 

As  for  going  anywhere,  or  doing  anything,  either  were 
inrilly  impossible.     No  roads,  the  streams  all  swollen  and 


en 


out  of  banks,  the  rains  incessant,  there  was  nothing  for 
them  but  to  remain  in  camp  and  wait  for  the  return  of 
spring.  When  at  last  the  rainy  season  was  over,  and  the 
sun  shini'jg  once  more,  most  of  the  mountain-men  in  the 
Tualatin  Plains  camp  took  land-claims  and  set  to  work 
improving  them.  Of  those  who  began  farming  that 
spring,  were  Newell,  Doughty,  Wilkins,  and  Walker. 
These  obtained  seed-wheat  from  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany, also  such  farming  implements  as  they  must  have, 
iiiid  even  oxen  to  draw  the  plow  through  the  strong 
prairie  sod.  The  wheat  was  to  be  returned  to  the  com- 
pany— the  cattle  also  ;  and  the  farming  implements  paid 
tor  wlicnever  the  debtor  became  able.  This  was  certainly 
hl)oral  conduct  on  the  part  of  a  company  generally  un- 
derstood to  be  opposed  to  American  settlement. 
19 


288 


WEALTH   OF    THE   METHODlbT    MlCJSlON. 


CHAPTER    XXIII 


We  find,  according  to  tlieir  own  account,  that  about 
1838-9,  "  Jason  Lee  was  lecturing  in  New  England,  on 
the  Oregon  Missions,  and  creating  considerable  zeal  for 
the  cause.  As  the  result  of  his  labors  before  the  Board 
and  elsewhere,  $40,000  were  collected  for  missionary  pur- 
poses, an'1  thirty-six  additional  assistants,  viz:  five  mis- 
sionaries, one  physician,  six  mechanics,  four  farmers,  one 
steward,  four  fem.  .e  teachers,  with  millers  and  others, 
were  sent  out  to  strengthen  the  mission,  besides  a  saw 
mill,  grist  mill,  agricultural  and  mechanical  tools.  This 
last  reinforcement  arrived  in  1840,  some  months  earlier 
than  the  mountain-men.  A  new  mission  was  projected 
about  ten  miles  above  the  old  one,  on  the  present  site  of 
Salem,  the  capital  of  Oregon. 

Here  the  mills  were  to  be  erected,  a  new  school  build- 
ing put  up,  and  other  substantial  improvements  carried 
on.  There  was  no  poverty  among  the  members  of  the 
mission;  on  the  contrary,  according  to  Commodore  Wilkes, 
there  was  wastefulness  and  reprehensible  neglect  of  the 
agricultural  and  mechanical  tools  so  generously  furnished 
by  the  Board  at  home,  who  believed  the  mission  to  be 
doing  a  good  work.  So  far,  however,  from  benefitting 
the  Indians,  they  were  an  actual  injury  to  them.  The 
sudden  and  absolute  change  of  habits  which  the  Indian 
students  were  compelled  to  make  did  not  agree  with 
them.     The  first  oreaking  up  of  the  ground  for  making 


•I'M 


-WHAT    THE    MISSION    HOARD    DID    FOR    OREGON. 


289 


farms  caused  malaria,  and  indncod  much  sickness  amoiic^ 
them.  Many  had  died,  and  many  others  had  gone  back 
to  tlicir  former  habits.  Much  vice  and  disease  also  pre- 
vailed among  the  natives,  which  had  been  introduced  by 
deporting  sailors  and  othc/  profligate  adventurers.  The 
IiidiiUis  coidd  not  be  made  to  comprehend  the  spiritual 
meaning  of  religion,  and  seeing  among  the  whites  thjm- 
selvcs  so  frequent  violations  of  what  was  represented  to 
he  their  belief,  they  ceased  to  regard  their  teachings, 
until  their  moral  condition  became  worse  in  their  half- 
civilized  condition  than  it  had  been  in  their  savage  state. 
The  mission  school  had  degenerated  to  such  a  mere  pre- 
tense of  a  school  that  in  1841,  when  Wilkes  visited  the 
mission,  he  was  not  permitted  to  see  it. 

Hence,  at  the  time  when  other  settlers  began  to  gather 
into  Oregon,  the  Methodist  Mission  was  such  by  courtesy 
only,  and  not  in  fact ;  and  of  this  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany and  the  mountain-men  were  perfectly  aware.  This 
was  a  colony,  an  American  colony,  stolen  in  under  the 
very  nose  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  claiming  their 
friendship  and  their  services  on  account  of  their  holy  call- 
ing. And  if  the  home  Board  was  deceived,  what  mat- 
tered it?  "they  builded  better  than  they  knew:"  they 
furnished  the  means  by  which  an  American  colony  estab- 
lished itself  on  Oregon  soil,  and  being  once  established, 
it  could  not  be  dislodged. 

It  is  no  part  of  the  writer's  design  to  say  that  the  event 
which  happened  was  foreseen.  It  was  the  logical  result 
of  unforeseen  circumstances.  A  few  religious  enthusiasts 
had  undertaken  what  they  could  not  perform — the  Chris- 
tianizing of  a  low  order  of  savages.  They  found  them- 
selves in  a  distant  and  beautiful  country,  where  it  was 
easier  to  remain  than  to  return.  Homes  were  growing 
up  around  them ;  children  were  born  here  ;  it  was  a  mild 


1 


r 


290 


MEMORIAL   TO    CONGRESS, 


and  salubrious  climate  :  why  should  they  desire  to  quit 
it  ?  As  for  the  mission  property,  had  it  not  been  intended 
to  benefit  them  ?  vrhj  should  they  relinquish  it  ?  Let  the 
future  take  care  of  itself 

All  this  is  not  so  very  difficult  to  understand.  "What 
was  ill-looking  and  hard  to  be  comprehended  was  the  re- 
luctance with  which  they  ever  assisted  any  other  American 
settlers.  It  would  seem  natural  that,  in  their  isolated  situ- 
ation, surrounded  by  Indians,  and  subject  most  completely 
to  the  will  of  the  anti- American  Hudson's  Bay  Company, 
they  should  ardently  desire  an  influx  of  their  own  coun- 
trymen, even  at  a  considerable  expense  to  themselves; 
for  they  were  exceeding  jealous  of  the  British  influence, 
and  of  the  designs  of  the  British  government.  Already 
had  they  memorialized  Congress  that  they  had  "settled 
themselves  in  said  Territory,  under  the  belief  that  it  was  a 
part  of  the  public  domain  of  said  States,  (United  States,) 
and  that  they  might  rely  upon  the  government  thereof 
for  the  blessings  of  free  institutions  and  the  protection  of 
its  arms." 

They  had  also  intimated  that  they  had  reason  not  only 
to  fear  the  Indians,  but  "  also  othev^  that  would  do  them 
harm,"  meaning  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.  In  this 
early  memorial  they  set  forth,  in  glowing  colors,  the  nat- 
ural advantages  and  abundant  resources  of  the  Territory, 
and  warned  the  Government  of  the  intention  of  the  Eng- 
lish to  claim  that  portion  of  it,  at  least,  which  laid  north 
of  the  Columbia  River,  and  closed  by  respectfully  asking 
for  the  "  civil  institutions  of  the  American  Republic." 

In  the  main  the  memorial  was  correct  enough,  as  the 
Governmen'^  was  aware.  It  was,  however,  ungenerous 
and  ungrateful  toward  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  oi 
its  representative.  Dr.  McLaughlin,  who  certainly  had 
done  nothing  but  good  to  themselves  and  their  country- 


TRYING    POSlliON    01''    I)U.    MCLAUGIILIX. 


291 


men.  Unless,  indeed,  they  considered  it  evil  for  him  to 
be  faitlifiil  to  the  interests  of  the  Company,  and  the  Brit- 
ish Government,  as  they  meant  to  be  to  the  interests  of 
their  own. 

It  was  truly  an  unenviable  position  which  Dr.  McLaugh- 
lin held  during  those  years  of  waiting  for  the  settlement 
of  the  boundary  question.  Even  in  his  own  particular 
phiee  and  private  dcnnain  he  was  not  left  at  peace.  For 
at  Vancouver  there  were  two  parties,  the  Patriots  or 
Ihitish,  and  the  Philosophers  or  Liberals.*  Of  the  latter 
was  Dr.  ]\IcLaughlin,  "  who  held  that  American  principles 
(if  legislation,  in  commercial  and  civil  matters,  were,  gener- 
ally speaking,  just  and  humane ;  and  from  which  even 
Ilritish  legislation  derived  some  useful  hints."  It  required, 
what  Dr.  McLaughlin  was,  a  man  of  unusual  force  of 
character  and  goodness  of  heart,  to  preserve  the  peace  in 
Oregon  as  he  did  do. 

Had  he  been  what  he  was  continually  suspected  and 
accused  of  being,  the  enemy  of  American  settlement  and 
settlers,  it  would  have  been  an  easy  matter  enough  to  have 
got  rid  of  them  altogether.  Instead  of  entertaining,  help- 
ing, and  succoring  them  on  all  occasions,  if  he  had  sinqoly 
let  them  quite  alone  they  must  have  perished.  No  snuill 
community  like  the  Methodist  Mission  could  have  sustained 
it-elf  in  Oregon  without  a  government,  without  ai'ms, 
without  a  market,  and  surrounded  as  they  were  by  twenty 
thousand  savages.  It  was  Fort  Vancouver  which  kept  the 
Indians  quiet.  It  was  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  who 
settled  all  difficulties  with  the  savages,  and  who  furnished 
means  of  communication,  transportation,  and  protection 
at  the  same  time.  With  unblushing  selfishness  the  mission- 
aries never  ceased  to  accept  and  even  solicit  every  benefit 


*  Oreyon  Territory,  By  John  Dunn  of  the  II.  B.  C 


^=;:^ 


292 


FEAR   OF    CATHOLICISM, 


the  Company  could  bestoy--,  at  the  same  time  they  continu- 
ally uttered  their  suspicions  r.ad  charges  against  the  Com- 
l)any's  principal  agent,  who  continued  with  wonderful 
magnanimity  to  load  them  with  his  favors. 

It  was  not  altogether  because  Dr.  McLaughlin  wavS  a 
representative  of  the  British  influence  in  the  country,  that 
the  missionaries  persisted  in  misconstruing  his  every  action. 
Quite  as  strong  a  reason  was  his  sectarian  belief.  A 
Roman  Catholic  was,  in  those  days  of  religious  prejudice, 
something  totally  abhorrent  in  Protestant  estimation.  The 
Oregon  missionaries,  neither  Methodist  nor  Presbyterian, 
could  ever  quite  rid  themselves  of  the  notion  that  Dr. 
McLaughlin  was  in  some  secret  rnd  mysterious  manner 
implicated  in  a  design  to  overthrow  Protestantism  in  Ore- 
gon, and  by  a  sort  of  second  St.  Bartholomew's  Eve,  to 
exterminate  every  man,  woman,  and  child  who  professed 
it.  What  especially  confirmed  their  suspicions  was  the 
fact  that  after  the  Protestant  missionaries  had  been  some- 
time settled  in  the  country,  the  Doctor  invited  some  priests 
of  his  own  church  to  do  the  same ;  having  one  stationed  at 
"^/"ancouver,  and  another  over  the  Canadian  settlement  at 
Champoeg.  Then,  as  might  be  expected,  others  followed, 
and  settled  among  the  Lidians  in  the  Upper  country. 
That  the  multitude  of  doctrines  afterwards  created  distrust 
in  the  minds  of  the  savages,  there  can  be  no  doubt ;  but 
then,  could  they  not  see  that  the  Protestants  differed 
among  themselves,  and  that  the  Catholics  did  not? 

Besides  the  mission  party,  which  was  inimical  to  the 
British  influence,  and  even  to  the  name  of  anything  British, 
there  was  also  the  American  party,  which  was  made  up  of 
everybody  American  outside  of  the  Mission.  The  moun- 
tain-men were  antagonistic  from  long  habit,  from  the  cus- 
tom of  making  war  upon  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company, 
which  the  leaders  of  the  American  Fur  Companies  incul- 


TIIK    MISSION    PARTY    AND    THE    AMERICAN    PARTY.       293 


cated  (luring  years  of  rivalry  in  the  mountains.  As  for 
the  few  other  adventurers  then  in  Oregon,  most  of  them 
luid  some  personal  quarrel  with  the  H.  B.  Company's 
af^onts,  or  simply  joined  the  American  party  from  a  senti- 
ment of  patriotism. 

Ill  the  case  of  Ewing  Young,  for  example  :  When  he 
first  came  into  the  country  from  California,  he  was  accom- 
panied by  Mr.  Kelly,  whose  history  has  already  been 
ojven.  Besides  Kelly,  tliere  were  a  number  of  sailors, 
deserters  from  vessels,  and  not  having  a  very  reputable 
ippearanco.  This  party  traveled  in  company  with  the 
Iludson's  Bay  trading  party  through  the  most  dangerous 
part  of  the  country,  accompanying  them  to  Vancouver. 

It  so  happened  that  the  trader  from  California  brought 
a  letter  to  Dr.  McLaughlin  from  the  Spanish  governor  of 
California,  warning  him  against  Kelly  and  Young,  say- 
inir  that  they  had  stolen  horses.  On  this  information,  Dr. 
McLaughlin  refused  to  have  anything  to  do  with  Young 
and  his  associates,  except  Kelly,  who  being  ill,  was  placed 
in  u  house  at  the  fort,  and  nursed  and  fed  through  the 
winter,  and  finally  sent  to  the  Sandwich  Islands  in  one  of 
the  Company's  vessels. 

Ill  revenge  for  the  slight  put  upon  him  by  Dr.  McLaugh- 
lin, Young  and  one  of  his  associates,  in  the  following  year, 
started  the  erection  of  a  distillery,  with  the  intention  of 
selling  liquor  to  the  Indians.  But  upon  this  movement 
the  missionaries  took  alarm,  and  oifered  to  pay  Young  the 
full  value  of  his  outlay  if  he  would  give  up  the  business  and 
undertake  something  else.  To  this  Young  and  his  part- 
ner consented  on  being  properly  petitioned  by  nearly  all 
the  white  settlers  in  the  country  outside  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company. 

Shortly  after  this  the  Cattle  Company  was  formed,  and 
the  mission  gave  Young  something  to  do,  by  sending  him 


> /• 


294 


EWINO    YOUNG A    lUriTOHlCAL    ClIAUACTER. 


'l  ) 

!i 


to  California  for  cattle,  and  as  he  received  cattle  for  pay. 
ment,  and  stock  was  immensely  high  in  Oregon,  he  soon 
became  a  man  of  wealth  and  standing.  The  mission  made 
much  of  him,  because  he  was  as  it  were,  a  brand  snatched 
from  the  burning,  and  a  good  hater  of  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company  besides.  In  truth  Mr.  Young  became  a  histori- 
cal character  by  dying  in  the  summer  of  1841,  and  thereby 
causing  to  be  held  the  first  Primary  Meeting  of  the  People 
of  Oregon.  Having  died  possessed  of  considerable  wealth, 
and  no  heirs  appearing  to  claim  it  on  the  spot,  his  frieiuls. 
after  first  prudently  burying  him,  adjourned  from  the  graye 
to  the  shade  of  a  tree,  and  took  prompt  measures  to  "call 
a  public  meeting  for  the  purpose  of  appointing  officers  for 
the  government  of  the  community,  and  ^Mri«C(!</rtW//  to 
provide  for  the  2'>r<>per  disposition  of  the  estate  of  Ew'mj 
Young y  The  legend  runs,  that  the  state,  that  is  to  say 
the  Mission,  divided  the  property  aU'ectionately  among 
themselves,  and  that  afterwards  there  appeared  a  claimant 
who  succeeded  in  regaining  a  portion;  but  that, is  neither 
here  nor  there  in  this  narrative. 

It  is  the  writer's  opinion  that  earthly  perfection  is  far  to 
seek  and  hard  to  find;  and  that  it  does  not  reside  in  Fur 
Companies'  forts,  nor  mission  establishments.  One  thing, 
however,  the  mind  persists  in  asking  itself:  Would  there 
not  have  been  more  unity  among  all  the  American  settlers, 
more  respect  for  religion,  and  more  universal  benevolence 
in  Oregon,  had  the  prominent  men  of  the  mission  party 
shown  themselves  less  selfish  and  grasping  ?  No  wonder 
that  when  the  superior  benevolence  of  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company  put  to  shame  their  avarice,  many  accounted  for 
the  superior  kindness  of  Dr.  McLaughlin  by  calling  it  Jes- 
uitical. A  little  more  of  the  same  Jesuitical  spirit  would 
have  softened  and  brightened  the  character  of  those  mis- 
sionaries to  the  future  historian  of  Oregon. 


ruSlTION    OF    THI>:    MOUNTAIN-MEN    IN   OREGON. 


295 


Yet  1)0  it  not  said  tliat  tlioy  did  no  good  in  tlicir  day 
and  generation.  If  tlioy  were  not  all  eonsistont  Christian 
teachers,  a  few  were.  If  as  a  class  or  i)arty  they  proved 
tlu'iiiselves  selfish  and  illiberal,  they  were  yet  as  a  class 
advocates  of  good  morals,  and  good  order,  of  industry, 
education,  and  free  institutions. 

It  will  be  readily  understood  that  there  could  be  little 
sympathy  between  the  missionaries  and  the  mountain-men, 
I'or  while  one  party  prayed  a  great  deal  and  very  conspicu- 
ously, the  other  never  prayed  at  all,  but  on  the  contrary 
rather  inclined  to  make  a  jest  of  sacred  matters,  and  pious 
observances.  Then  too,  the  mission  party  were  well-to-do, 
and  contiimally  increasing  their  worldly  goods  by  sharp 
bargains  and  general  acquisitiveness,  while  the  mountain- 
men  were  poor,  prodigal,  and  not  always  industrious.  In 
short,  the  aristocracy  of  American  Oregon  was  the  Metho- 
dist mission,  an  aristocracy  second  only  to  that  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company,  while  the  mountain-men,  with 
big,  rebellious  hearts,  were  compelled,  at  the  same  time 
that  they  refused,  to  acccjpt  the  position  thrust  upon  them. 


.in  .:.c:   ,.. 


..•■.;:'•*■'  jH 


:;:.vtvv.-;. 


■^■^T 


29G 


WILKES     EXPLOlllNG    EXPEDITION. 


'1/ 


CHAPTER    XXIV, 


'',('.  ;■ 


1841.  WiiEX  spring  opened,  Meek  assisted  Newell  in 
breaking  the  ground  for  wheat.  This  done,  it  became  nec- 
essary to  look  out  for  sonic  immediately  paying  employ- 
luent.  But  paying  occupations  were  hard  to  liud  in  that 
new  country.  At  last,  like  everybody  else,  Meek  foiiiid 
^  himself,  if  not  "hanging  about,"  at  least  frequently  visit- 
ing Vancouver.  Poor  as  he  was,  and  un})romising  as 
looked  the  future,  he  was  the  same  light-hearted,  reckless, 
and  fearless  Joe  Meek  that  he  had  been  in  the  mountains; 
as  jaunty  and  jolly  a  ragged  mountaineer  as  ever  Avas  seen 
at  the  Fort.  Especially  he  delighted  in  recounting  his  hi- 
dian  fights,  because  the  Company,  and  Dr.  McLaughlin  in 
particular,  disapproved  the  American  Company's  conduct 
with  the  Indians. 

When  the  Doctor  chanced  to  overhear  Meek's  stories, 
as  he  sometimes  did,  he  would  say  "Mr.  Joe,  Mr.  Joe, — (<a 
habit  the  Doctor  had  of  speaking  rapidly,  and  repeating 
his  words,) — Mr.  Joe,  Mr.  Joe,  you  must  leave  off  killing 
Indians,  and  go  to  work."  .  .*;. 

"I  can't  work,"  Meek  would  answer  in  his  impressively 
slow  and  smooth  utterance,  at  the  same  time  giving  his 
shoulders  a  slight  shrug,  and  looking  the  Doctor  pleasantly 
in  the  face. 

During  the  summer,  however,  the  United  States  Explor- 
ing Squadron,  under  Commodore  Wilkes,  entered  the  Co- 
lumbia River,  and  proceeded  to  explore  the  country  in 
several  directions ;  and  it  was  now  that  Meek  found  an 


i\ 


■^r 


-J 


INTEIICIIANGE   OF   COURTESIES   AT   VANCOUVER. 


297 


oinploymcnt  suited  to  him ;  being  ongag-ed  by  Wilkes  as 
pilot  and  servant  while  on  his  several  tours  through  the 
country. 

On  lh(^  arrival  of  three  vessels  of  the  squadron  at  Van- 
couver, and  the  iirst  ceremonious  visit  of  Dr.  l\leLan;  Idin 
aud  his  associates  to  Commodore  Wilkes  on  board,  there 
was  considerable  display,  the  men  in  the  yards,  saluting-, 
aud  all  the  honors  due  to  the  representative  of  a  frientlly 
foreign  power.  After  dinner,  while  the  guests  were  walk- 
ing uu  dock  engaged  in  conversation,  the  talk  turned  up- 
ou  the  loss  of  the  Peacock,  one  of  the  vessels  beloniiinir 
to  the  II.  S.  squadron,  which  was  wrecked  on  the  bar  .at 
the  mouth  of  the  Columbia.  The  English  gentlemen  were 
polite  enough  to  be  expressing  their  regrets  at  the  loss  to 
the  United  States,  when  Meek,  who  had  picked  up  a  little 
history  in  spite  of  his  life  spent  in  the  mountains,  laugh- 
ingly interrupted  with : 

"No  loss  at  all,  gentlemen.  Uncle  Sam  can  get  another 
Peacock  the  way  he  got  that  one." 

Wilkes,  who  probably  regretted  the  allusion,  as  not  be- 
ing consonant  with  the  spirit  of  hospjitality,  passed  over 
tlie  interruption  in  silence.  But  when  the  gentlemen  from 
Vancouver  had  taken  leave  he  turned  to  Meek  with  a 
meaning  twinkle  in  his  eyes : 

"Meek,"  said  he,  "go  down  to  my  cabin  and  you'll  find 
tliere  something  good  to  eat,  and  some  first-rate  brandy." 
Of  course  Meek  went. 

While  Wilkes  was  exploring  in  the  Cowelitz  Valley, 
with  Meek  and  a  Hudson's  Bay  man  named  Forrest,  as 
guides,  he  one  day  laid  down  in  his  tent  to  sleep,  leaving 
his  chronometer  watch  lying  on  the  camp-table  beside 
him.  Forrest,  happening  to  observe  that  it  did  not  agree 
with  his  own,  which  he  believed  to  be  correct,  very  kindl}^, 
as  he  supposed,  regulated  it  to  agree  with  his.     On  awak- 


21)8 


LAND    KXrKDlTlOX    TO    CALIFORNIA. 


cninii:  niul  takiiii!;  u[)  liis  ■yvatcli,  u  puzzled  expression  came 
over  Wilkes'  taee  for  ii  luomeiit,  as  ho  diseovercd  tiie 
ehaiige  in  the  time ;  then  one  of  anger  and  disiippoinf. 
ment,  as  what  had  occurred  Hashed  over  his  mind;  W 
lowed  by  some  rathei"  strong  expressions  of  iiuliffniitiun. 
Forrest  was  penitent  when  he  perceived  the  mischief  done 
by  his  meddling,  but  that  would  not  restore  the  chruiiom- 
eter  to  the  true  time:  and  this  accident  proved  a  serious 
annoyance  and  hindrance  during  the  remainder  of  the 
expedition.  ><< 

After  exploring  the  Cowelitz  Valley,  Wilkes  dispatched 
a  party  undin*  Lieutenant  Eminons,  to  proceed  up  the 
Wallamct  Valley,  thence  south  along  the  old  trail  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company,  to  California.  Meek  was  em- 
ployed to  pilot  this  party,  Avhich  had  reached  the  head  of 
the  valley,  wlicn  it  became  necessary  to  send  for  some  pa- 
pers in  the  possession  of  the  Commodore  ;  and  he  returned 
to  Astoria  upon  this  duty.  On  joining  Emmons  again  lie 
found  that  some  of  his  men  had  become  disaffected  toward 
him:  especially  Jandreau,  the  same  Frenchman  who 
prayed  so  dramatically  at  the  Dalles. 

Jnnclreau  confided  to  ^Meek  that  he  hated  Emmons,  and 
intenci«^'c]  to  kill  him.  The  next  morning  when  Lieut.  E. 
was  examining  the  arms  of  the  party,  he  fired  off  Jau- 
dreau's  gun,  which  being  purposely  overcharged,  flew 
back  and  inflicted  some  injuries  upon  the  Lieutenant. 

"What  do  you  mean  by  loading  a  gun  like  .that?"  in- 
quired Emmons,  in  a  rage. 

"I  meant  it  to  kill  two  Lijuns; — one  before,  and  one 
behind ;"  answered  Jandreau.  •         :,.:V 

As  might  bo  conjectured  Jandreau  was  made  to  fire  his 
own  gun  after  that. 

The  expedition  had  not  proceeded  much  farther  when 
it  again  became  necessary  to  send  an  express  to  Vancou- 


ii 


A    VISIT    TO    THE    NEW   MISSION. 


2'J9 


vcr,  itiid  Me(.'k  was  ordered  njimi  thin  duty,  TTore  he 
found  lliiit  Wilkes  hud  piircliiised  a  small  vessel  which  he 
iiiuiicd  the  On'(/on,  with  which  lie  was  about  to  leave  the 
coiiiitiy.  As  thei-e  was  no  further  use  for  his  services  our 
quuiidiiin  trnpi)er  was  a<^'aiii  thrown  out  of  (!niploynieiit. 
hi  this  e.\i<^eiu'y,  finding  it  necessary  to  make;  some  pi'o- 
visioti  for  the  winter,  he  became  a  gleaner  of  wiieat  in  the 
liclds  of  his  more  provident  neighbors,  by  which  means  a 
suHicicnt  sni)ply  was  secured  to  keep  himself  and  his  small 
fiiiiiilv  in  food  nntil  another  spring. 

When  Avintcr  set  in.  Meek  paid  a  visit  to  the  new  mis- 
sion, lie  had  been  there  once  before,  in  the  spring,  to 
l)iiy  an  axe.  Think,  0  reader,  of  traveling  fifty  or  more 
iiiik's,  on  horseback,  or  in  a  small  boat,  to  procure  so  sim- 
ple iuid  necessary  an  article  of  civilized  life  as  an  axe ! 
But  none  of  the  evory-day  conveniencies  of  living  grow 
spontaneously  in  the  wilderness — more's  the  i)ity  : — else 
life  in  the  wildei'ness  would  bo  thought  more  delightful 
liir  than  life  in  the  most  luxurious  of  cities;  inasmuch  as 
Xatnre  is  more  satisfying  than  art. 

Moek's  errand  to  the  mission  on  this  occasion  was  to 
fnid  whether  he  could  get  a  cow,  and  credit  at  the  same 
time;  for  the  prospect  of  living  for  another  winter  on 
boiled  wheat  was  not  a  cheerful  one.  lie  had  not  suc- 
cocded,  and  was  returning,  when  at  Champoeg  he  met 
a  Mr.  Whitcom,  superintendent  of  the  mission  farm.  A 
conversation  took  place  Avherein  Meek's  desire  for  a  cow 
became  known.  The  missionaries  never  lost  an  opportu- 
nity of  proposing  prayers,  and  Mr.  Whitcom  thought  this 
a  good  one.  After  showing  much  interest  in  the  condi- 
tion of  ^leek's  soul,  it  was  proposed  that  he  should  pray. 

"/can't  pray:  that's  your  business,  not  mine,"  said 
Meek  pleasantly.     :''[;•■■•  ^  *w.  ^w,'i'j^m;.;:  ^^,.U;-.^,;  ■.      ,.;  s-  - 


^^m 


'j^-''  i'ii}i 


m 


300 


PRAYING   FOR    A    COW. 


"It  is  eveiy  man's  business  to  pray  for  himself,"  an- 
swered Whitcom. 

"Very  well;  some  other  time  will  do  for  that.  What 
I  want  now  is  a  cow." 

"How  can  you  expect  to  get  what  you  want,  if  you 
wont  ask  for  it  ?"'  inquired  Whitcom. 

"I  reckon  I  have  asked  you;  and  I  don't  see  nary  cow 
yet."  ^  ^  '..:.. 

"You  must  ask  God,  my  friend:  but  in  the  first  place 
you  must  oray  to  be  forgiven  for  your  sins." 

"I'll  tell  you  what  I'll  do.  If  you  will  furnish  the  cotv, 
I'll  agree  to  pray  for  half  an  hour,  right  here  on  the 
spot."  ...... 

"Down  on  your  knees  then."  ■■  c  •  ;ym 

"  You'll  furnish  the  cow  ?" 

"Yes,"  said  Whitcom,  fairly  cornered. 

Down  on  his  knees  dropped  the  merry  reprobate,  and 
prayed  out  his  half  hour,  with  how  much  earnestness  only 
himself  and  Grod  knew. 

But  the  result  was  what  he  had  come  for,  a  cow ;  for 
Whitcom  was  as  good  as  his  word,  and  sent  him  home  re- 
joicing. And  thus,  with  what  he  had  earned  from  Wilkes, 
his  gleaned  wheat,  and  his  cow,  he  contrived  to  get 
through  another  winter. 

The  summer  had  not  been  altogether  wasted  either,  in 
other  respects.  He  had  seer  nearly  the  whole  of  West- 
ern Oicgon  ;  had  acquired  not  only  an  understanding  of 
its  geography,  but  had  learned  to  appreciate  it,  and  its 
consequence  In  a  national  point  of  view.  He  had  found 
it  lovely,  genial,  and  productive  above  any  country  he  bad 
ever  seen,  excepting  that  portion  of  California  which  he 
had  once  visited ; — in  some  respects  superior  even  to  that. 
He  had  begun  to  comprehend  the  political  }.osition  of  Ore- 
gon more  thoroughly  than  before;  he  thought  he  knew 


'7T'W«P 


THE  GREAT  EVENT  OF  THE  YEAR. 


301 


■what  was  good  and  what  was  bad  about  the  Hudson's  Bay 
('(»in[)any's  iuflueiice,  and  the  mission  influence; — in  short 
lie  liiul  been  learning  to  be  an  American  citizen,  instead 
of  a  mountain  ranger — an  individual  instead  of  a  fraction 
of  a  company. 

The  events  which  he  had  been  a  witness  to,  and  the 
associations  he  had  enjoyed,  had  been  doing  much  to  edu- 
cate in  him  unbiased  Tiews  of  Oregon  affairs.  The  great 
event  of  that  summer,  in  Oregon,  had  been  the  presence 
of  the  American  Squadron  in  Oregon  waters.  It  was  un- 
derstood by  tlie  Americans  to  be  significant  on  the  part 
of  the  Government,  of  some  action  which  it  was  about  to 
take  in  regard  to  thi  treaty  of  joint  occupancy.  So  also 
it  was  understood  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  ConiDany,  The 
A:nericans  Avere  naturally  anxious  to  find  Commodore 
Wilkes  favorably  impressed  with  the  country  and  its  nat- 
ural Avealth.  They  were  also  very  desirous  that  he  should 
sympathize  with  their  desire  to  have  the  United  States 
extend  its  li^overnmeut  over  them. 

As  has  been  elsewhere  stated,  the  death  of  Ewing 
Yonng,  Avliich  occurred  early  in  this  year,  furnished  the 
pretext  lor  the  first  primary  meeting  in  Oregon.  Follow- 
ing up  the  idea  of  a  form  of  laws,  the  mission  party  con- 
sulted with  ohe  United  States  officers  on  the  propriety  of 
establisliing  a  civil  code  for  the  government  of  the  colony, 
and  were  disappointed,  and  not  a  little  hurt,  at  finding 
that  they  did  not  see  the  necessity  for  it.  .    m     ,*  , 

'•  A  committpc  of  five,"  says  Wilkes,  "  priRcipally  lay-members  of  the  mis- 
sion, waited  upon  me  to  consult  and  ask  advice  relative  to  the  establishment 
of  liiws,  etc..  After  hearing  attentively  all  theii-  arguments  and  reasons  for 
this  change,  T  pould  see  none  suflicient'y  strong  to  induce  this  step.  No  crime 
a])iK'ai'.s  yet  to  have  been  committed,  and  the  persons  and  property  of  settlers 
are  secure.  Their  principal  reasons  appear  to  me  to  be,  that  it  Avould  give 
tlu'in  more  importance  in  ihe  eyes  of  others  at  a  distance,  and  induce  settlers 
to  Hock  in,  thereby  r.aising  the  value  of  their  farms  awd  stock.  I  could  not 
view  the  subject  in  such  a  light,  and  differed  with  them  entirely  as  to  the  ne- 
cessity or  policy  of  adopting  the  change." 


|.^i'* 


•    f 


:.f  fi 


302 


THE    "star    of    OREGON." 


^l. 


Commodore  Wilkes  knew,  and  everybody  knew,  tliat 
the  British  interest  rlrcady  felt  itself  threatened  by  the 
presence  of  the  exploring  expedition.  So  sensitive  T\'as 
Wilkes  on  this  subject,  that  he  preferred  camping  outside 
the  Fort  to  accepting  its  hospitalities.  He  felt  that  for 
the  Americans  to  follow  it  up  immediately  with  any  at- 
tempt at  an  independent  government,  would,  or  might  he, 
to  precipitate  upon  the  Government  the  necessity  of 
action  for  which  it  was  not  yet  pro}  ;"ev  ^r  to  provoke 
an  enmity  by  no  means  desirable  in  ilh;.jl  present  weak- 
condition. 

Another  difliculty  was  also  submitted  to  Commodore 
Wilkes.  A  party  of  eight  young  men  from  the  States, 
who  had,  lilvc  other  adventurers,  drifted  into  Oregon  irom 
the  mountains  and  California,  had  determined  to  return 
to  their  homes,  because,  as  they  said,  there  were  no  young 
white  women  in  that  country  to  marry,  and  they  were 
unwilling  to  remain  without  female  society,  or  to  take 
native  wives.  Not  being  able  to  reeross  the  conJiu.nt, 
Oiey  had  determined  to  build  a  vessel  and  to  g-  by  .^ea, 
at  least  so  far  as  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco,  ^  i\  '  ":;y 
might  fall  in  Avith  a  trading  vessel  going  home.  .1'  i  -1/ 
of  them  knew  anything  abou.  navigation,  though  oii  ^ , 
them  was  a  ship-carpenter,  but  they  trusted  they  should 
be  al)le  to  sail  their  little  craft,  which  they  had  named 
the  Star  of  Oregon.,  safely  to  some  port  where  assistance 
could  reach  them.  What  they  wanted  of  the  Commodore 
was  a  sea-letter,  aad  that  he  sh-^  m'  intercede  with  Dr. 
McLaughlin,  who,  through  some  misunder'-'  •:  Jiiig,  had 
refused  them  any  further  supplies.  On  receiv;'  ;i  f  dvlcc 
from  Wilkes  that  they  should  explain  to  Dr.  McLaughlin 
whatever  seemed  wrong  tv^  hip\  they  did  so,  and  obtained 
the  necessary  ropes,  sail.?,  proA  ■'-'-^Tis,  etc.,  for  their  vessel, 
and  linally  made  a  safe  voyage  to  San  Francisco,  where 


^^!W 


CELEBRATION    OF    MARRIAGE. 


303 


Icncw, 
led  by  the 
isitive  was 
ng  outside 
It  that  for 
th  any  at- 
■  might  be, 
cessity  of 
0  provoke 
3sent  weak 

ommodore 
;he  States, 
■egon  iTom 
.  to  return 
)  no  young 
thev  were 
DP  to  take 
con.iucnt, 


-■' 


.:oa. 


they  sold  dieir  vessel  for  a  good  price,  and  took  passage 
home  by  some  larger  one.  Such  were  some  of  the  ex- 
amples of  successful  daring  which  the  early  history  of 
Oregon  furnished. 

During  this  summer,  also,  a  trading  vessel — the  Thomas 
Perkins,  from  Boston,  Yarneij,  master, — entered  the  Co- 
hnubia  with  a  cargo  of  Indian  goods  and  liquor.  To  pre- 
vent the  liquor  being  sold  to  the  Indians,  Dr.  McLaughlin 
liouglit  up  the  \vhole  cargo,  storing  the  liquor  at  Vancou- 
ver, where  it  remained  for  several  years  untasted.  Had 
that  liquor  got  among  the  Indians,  it  is  most  probable 
that  the  American  colony  would  have  been  destroyed,  or 
, riven  into  Fort  Vancouver  for  protection. 

Perhaps  the  most  important  person?!  event  which  dis- 
tinguished this  year  in  Meek's  history,  was  the  celebra- 
tion, according  to  the  rites  of  the  Christian  church,  of  his 
marriage  with  the  Nez  Perce  woman  who  had  already 
borne  him  two  children,  and  who  still  lives,  the  mother 
of  a  family  of  seven. 


gll  Oi.  ^ , ' 
ey  should 
ad  named 
assistance 
3mmodorc 
v/ith  Dr. 
.1'.ig,  had 
V  rdvicc 
cLaughlin 
1  obtained 
pcir  vessel 
ico,  where 


20 


304 


THE   BALANCE    OF   TOWEil   LS'    OKEUON. 


CPIAPTEH    XXV. 


1842.  By  the  opening  of  another  spring,  Meek  had 
so  far  overcome  his  distaste  for  form  labor  as  to  put  in  a 
field  of  wheat  for  himself,  with  Donghty,  and  to  make 
some  arrangements  about  his  future  subsistence.  This 
done,  he  was  ready,  as  usual,  for  anything  in  the  way  of 
adventure  which  might  turn  up.  This  was,  however,  a 
very  quiet  summer  in  the  little  colony.  Important  events 
were  brooding,  but  as  yet  results  were  not  perceptible, 
except  to  the  mind  of  a  prophet.  The  Hudson's  Bay 
Company,  conformably  to  British  policy,  were  at  work 
to  turn  the  balance  of  power  in  Oregon  in  favor  of  Brit- 
ish occupation,  and,  unknown  even  to  the  colonists,  tlie 
United  States  Government  was  taking  what  measures  it 
could  to  shift  the  balance  in  its  own  favor.  Very  little 
was  said  about  the  subject  of  government  claims  among 
the  colonists,  but  a  feeling  of  suspense  oppressed  all 
parties. 

The  work  of  putting  in  wheat  and  improving  of  farms 
had  just  begun  to  slacken  a  little,  when  there  was  an  ar 
rival  in  the  Columbia  River  of  a  vessel  from  Boston— the 
Chenamus^  Captain  Couch.  The  Chenaiim.  brought  a 
cargo  of  goods,  which  were  placed  in  store  at  Wallamet 
Falls,  to  be  sold  to  the  settlers,  being  the  first  successful 
attempt  at  trade  ever  made  in  Oregon,  outside  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  and  Methodist  Mission  stores. 

When  the  Fourth  of  July  came,  the    Chenamm  was 


THE    FOURTH    OF    JULY. 


305 


was  anar- 


Iviu"-  in  the  Wtilliimet,  below  the  Falls,  near  where  the 
nrcseiit  city  of  Portland  stands.  Meek,  who  was  always 
first  to  be  at  any  spot  where  noise,  bustle,  or  excitement 
miu'lit  bu  anticipated,  and  wdiose  fine  humor  and  fund  of 
aiii'cdoto  made  him  always  welcome,  had  borrowed  a  boat 
li'oiu  Cnpt.  Couch's  clerk,  at  the  Falls,  and  gone  down  to 
the  vessel  early  in  the  morning,  before  the  salute  for  the 
(llorious  Fourth  w\as  fired.  There  he  remained  aU  day, 
enjoying  a  patriotic  swagger,  and  an  occasional  glass  of 
something  good  to  drink.  Other  visitors  came  aboard 
during  the  day,  which  was  duly  celebrated  to  the  satisfac- 
tion of  all. 

Towards  evening,  a  party  from  the  Mission,  wishing  to 
return  to  the  Falls,  took  possession  of  Meek's  borrowed 
l.ioat  to  go  off  with.  Now  was  a  good  opportunity  to 
show  tlie  value  of  free  institutions.  Meek,  like  other 
mountain-men,  felt  the  distance  which  the  missionaries 
placed  between  him  and  themselves,  on  the  score  of  their 
moral  and  social  superiority,  and  resented  the  freedom 
with  which  they  appropriated  what  he  had  with  some 
trouble  secured  to  himself  Intercepting  the  party  when 
more  than  half  of  them  were  seated  in  the  boat,  he  in- 
formed them  that  they  were  trespassing  upon  a  piece  of 
property  which  for  the  present  belonged  to  him,  and  for 
which  he  had  a  very  urgent  need.  Vexed  by  the  delay, 
and  by  having  to  relincpiish  the  boat  to  a  man  wdio,  ac- 
cording to  their  view  of  the  case,  could  not  "read  his 
title  clear,"  to  anything  either  on  earth  or  in  heaven,  the 
missionaries  expostulated  somewhat  warmly,  but  Meek  in- 
sisted, and  so  compelled  them  to  wait  for  some  better 
opportunity  of  leaving  the  ship.  Then  loading  the  boat 
with  what  was  much  more  to  the  purpose — a  good  supply 
of  provisions.  Meek  proceeded  to  drink  the  Captain's 
liealth  in  a  very  ostentatious  manner,  and  take  his  leave. 


/K 


i; 


ii  . 
I'" 


1    ).      ',  ■ 

3 

306 


ARRIVAL    OF    AN    INDIAN   AGENT. 


■li 


■il 


This  slight  encounter  is  related  only  to  illustrate  the  sort 
of  feeling  which  made  the  missionaries  and  those  Ameri- 
cans usually  denominated  as  "settlers,"  two  parties  instead 
of  one. 

The  summer  passed  away,  the  harvest  was  gathered, 
and  in  September  there  was  a  fresh  excitement  in  the 
Valley.  Dr.  White,  a  member  of  the  mission,  who  came 
out  in  1840,  quarreled  with  the  superintendent  of  the 
mission,  Mr.  Lee,  and  returned  to  the  States  in  1841,  now 
re-appeared  in  Oregon  as  the  bearer  of  glad  tidings.  It 
appeared  that  Dr.  White,  after  settling  his  affairs  with  the 
Board  at  home,  had  given  such  information  to  the  Gov- 
ernment concerning  Oregon  affairs,  as  had  induced  the 
Executive  to  commission  him  Indian  Agent,  with  certain 
not  very  clearly  defined  powers.  What  these  powers 
were,  did  not  at  first  so  much  interest  the  community,  as 
that  he  had  any  at  all ;  for  the  fact  of  his  holding  any 
commission  from  the  United  States  indicated  to  them  that 
the  Government  was  about  to  take  a  step  in  their  behalf, 
which  their  eager  imaginations  willingly  construed  into  a 
settlement  of  the  boundary  question,  the  erection  of  a 
territorial  government  in  Oregon,  and  the  complete  dis- 
comfiture of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company. 

In  addition  to  the  pleasure  which  Dr.  White's  commis- 
sion gave,  he  was  able  to  furnish  another  and  equally 
good  promise  for  the  future,  in  the  shape  of  a  printed 
copy  of  a  bill,  then  before  the  Senate,  proposing  to  do- 
nate 640  acres  of  ..vud  to  every  white  male  inhabitant, 
half  that  quantity  to  a  wife,  and  one-fourth  to  every  child 
under  eighteen  years  of  age.  That  these  liberal  offers 
were  contained  in  Mr.  Linn's  bill  was  well  understood  to 
be  a  bid  for  settlers,  nor  did  the  colonists  doubt  that  it 
would  induce  emigration. 
•    To  crown  their  satisfaction,  over  a  hundred  immigrants 


5«1 


RECEPTION    OF    THE    IMMIGRANTS. 


307 


liad  accompanied  Dr.  AVliite  on  his  return,  each  with  a 
copy  of  Mr.  Linn's  bill  in  their  hands,  as  it  were  to  show 
their  title  to  the  country.  These  immigrants  had  left 
their  wagons  at  Fort  Hall,  having  been  overtaken  by 
heavy  storms,  and  concluded  their  journey  on  horseback, 
traveling  from  the  Dalles  of  the  Columbia  to  the  Wallamet 
Falls,  by  a  trail  over  the  Cascade  mountains  and  around 
the  base  of  Mt.  Hood,  thus  avoiding  Fort  Vancouver  en- 
tirely. 

To  receive  the  new  comers  properly,  required  some 
considerable  exertion  on  the  part  of  the  colony,  which 
Avas  hardly  prepared  in  matter  of  tenements  and  provis- 
ions for  such  an  influx  of  population.  However,  being 
the  first  invoice,  they  were  made  very  welcome,  and  the 
more  so,  that  there  were  among  them  a  number  of  intelli- 
gent professional  gentlemen,  with  their  families,  and  that, 
fur  the  most  part,  all  were  in  independent  circumstances. 

The  only  thing  that  dampened  the  ardor  of  the  colonists 
was,  that  Dr.  White  affirmed  that 'his  authority  among 
tliem  amounted  to  that  of  governor  of  the  colony.  Now, 
ill  the  first  place,  they  had  not  any  government,  therefore 
could  not  have  any  governor.  True,  there  had  been  cer- 
tain, persons  elected  to  fill  certain  offices,  on  the  occasion 
before  referred  to,  of  the  death  of  Young.  But  there 
had  been  no  occasion  for  the  exercise  of  their  various 
functions,  and  the  whole  matter  was  of  doubtful  substan- 
tiality. Besides,  if  they  were  to  have  a  governor,  which 
they  persisted  they  did  not  need,  they  would  have  desired 
to  signify  their  preference.  After  considerable  contro- 
versy, Dr.  White  was  finally  obliged  to  be  satisfied  with 
liis  Indian  agency,  and  Oregon  got  on  as  before,  without 
a  governor.  .  ^  -       •  .-  ; 

As  might  be  anticipated,  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company 
were  not  well  pleased  with  the  turn  affairs  seemed  taking. 


¥ 


i 


5     *. 


308 


THE    ASIinUTlTON    TREATY. 


They,  on  their  own  part,  wcr-^  watching  the  action  of 
their  own  and  the  United  States  government,  and  had 
their  colonization  schemes  beside,  as  well  as  the  Ameri- 
cans. ISir  George  Simpson,  governor  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company,  had  induced  about  one  hundred  and  fifty 
of  the  French  Canadian  and  Scotch  settlers  of  the  Red 
Kiver  settlement  to  come  down  into  Oregon  and  locate 
on  the  North  side  of  the  Columbia.  Their  arrival  hap- 
pened rather  later  than  that  of  the  American  immigrants, 
and  was  in  no  way  satisfactory,  since  most  of  them  dis- 
liked the  portion  of  country  assigned  to  them,  that  being 
the  gravelly  region  around  Puget  Sound,  and  finally  set- 
tled in  the  Wallamet  Valley. 

In  the  meantime,  however.  Dr.  Whitman,  of  the  Waii- 
latpn  Mission,  in  the  upper  country,  was  so  fearful  of  the 
intentions  of  the  British  government  that  he  set  out  for 
Washington  late  in  the  autumn  of  1842,  to  put  the  Sec- 
retary of  State  on  his  guard  concerning  the  boundary 
question,  and  to  pray  that  it  might  be  settled  conformably 
with  the  wishes  of  the  Americans  in  Oregon.  On  his  ar- 
rival he  found  that  the  treaty  known  as  the  "  Ashburton 
Treaty"  had  been  confirmed  in  the  preceding  summer, 
and  that  it  avoided  all  reference  to  the  Oregon  boundary, 
by  simply  fixing  upon  a  line  for  our  frontier,  extending 
from  the  Atlantic  coast  to  the  Lake  of  the  Woods,  or  less 
than  half-way  across  the  continent.  He,  however,  con- 
ferred with  Mr.  Webster  on  the  subject,  representing  to 
him  the  folly  of  being  persuaded  to  "  swap  off  the  Oregon 
territory  for  a  cod-fishery,"  and  probnl)ly  was  able  to  en- 
lighten him  on  the  value  of  said  territory. 

It  was  in  March,  1843,  that  Dr.  Whitman  arrived  at 
Washington.  On  reaching  the  Missouri  frontier  he  had 
found  that  a  large  number  of  persons  held  themselves  in 
readiness  to  emigrate,  on  the  strength  of  Mr.  Linn's  bill, 


11 


EMIGRATION'    FROM   MISSOURI. 


309 


!ver,  con- 


shoiikl  it  pass.  To  tlicsc  he  spoke  encourngingly,  advising 
thorn  to  go  Avitliout  delay,  as  such  a  bill  "would  certainly 
1)0  passed.  Hastening  over  his  business  at  Washington, 
he  returned  to  the  frontier  early,  joining  the  emigration, 
to  whom  he  proved  a  most  useful  friend,  and  indefatigable 
(Tuidc  and  assistant.  Such  was  the  struggle  for  the  pos- 
session of  the  Oregon  Territory. 

There  was  one  feature,  however,  of  this  otherwise 
rather  cntcrtainiug  race  for  possession,  which  was  becora- 
incr  (|uite  alarming.  In  all  this  strife  about  claiming  the 
country,  the  Indian  claim  had  not  been  considered.  It 
has  been  already  mentioned  that  the  attempt  to  civilize  or 
Christianize  the  Indians  of  western  Oregon  was  practically 
an  entire  failure.  But  they  were  not  naturally  of  a  war- 
like disposition,  and  had  been  so  long  under  the  control 
of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  that  there  was  compara- 
tively little  to  apprehend  from  them,  even  though  they 
felt  some  discontent  at  the  incoming  immigration. 

But  with  the  Indians  of  the  upper  Columbia  it  was  dif- 
fereut ;  especially  so  with  the  tribes  among  whom  the 
Presbyterian  missionaries  were  settled — the  Walla- Wallas, 
Cayuscs,  and  Nez  Perces,  three  brave  and  powerful  na- 
tions, much  united  by  intermarriages.  The  impression 
;vhicli  these  people  had  first  made  on  the  missionaries  was 
very  favorable,  their  evident  intelligence,  inquisitiveness, 
and  desire  for  religious  teachings  seeming  to  promise  a 
good  reward  of  missionary  labor.  Dr.  Whitman  and  his 
associates  had  been  diligent  in  their  efforts  to  civilize  and 
Christianize  them — to  induce  the  men  to  leave  off  their 
migratory  habits  and  learn  agriculture,  and  the  women  to 
learn  spinning,  sewing,  cooking,  and  all  the  most  essential 
arts  of  domestic,  life.  At  the  first,  the  novelty  of  these 
new  pursuits  engaged  their  in.erest,  as  it  also  excited 
their  hope  of  gain.     But  the  task  of  keeping  them  to 


n   .»"■ 


■4 
■j.i , 


t    ,/'!! 


^;% 


$ 


310 


DISCONTENT    OF    THE    INDIANS. 


tlicir  "work  with  sufTieiont  stcudincss,  was  very  great. 
They  re(|uirecl,  like  cliiklren,  to  be  bribed  witli  promises 
of  more  or  less  iinmeditite  reward  of  tlieir  exertions,  nor 
would  tliey  relinquish  the  fiiHiluient  of  a  promise,  even 
though  they  had  failed  to  perform  the  conditions  on  which 
the  promise  became  binding. 

By-and-by  they  made  the  discovery  that  ncitlier  the 
missionaries  could,  nor  the  white  man's  God  did,  confer 
upon  them  what  they  desired — the  enjoyment  of  all  the 
blessings  of  the  Avhite  men — and  that  if  they  wished  to 
enjoy  these  blessings,  they  must  labor  to  obtain  them. 
This  discovery  was  very  discouraging,  inasmuch  as  the 
Indian  nature  is  decidedly  averse  to  steady  labor,  and 
they  could  perceive  that  very  little  was  to  be  expected 
from  any  progress  which  could  be  achieved  in  one  gen- 
eration. As  for  the  Christian  faith,  they  understood  about 
as  much  of  its  true  spirit  as  savages,  with  the  law  of 
blood  written  in  their  hearts,  could  be  expected  to  under- 
stand. Thoy  looked  for  nothing  more  nor  less  than  the 
literal  fulfilment  of  the  Bible  ^jromises  —  nothing  less 
would  content  them ;  and  as  to  the  forms  of  their  new 
religion,  they  liked  them  well  enough — liked  singing  and 
praying,  and  certain  orderly  observances,  the  chiefs  lead- 
ing in  these  as  in  other  matters.  So  much  interest  did 
they  discover  at  first,  that  their  teachers  were  deceived 
as  to  the  actual  extent  of  the  good  they  were  doing. 

As  time  went  on,  however,  there  began  to  be  cause  for 
mutual  dissatisfaction.  The  Indians  became  aware  that 
no  matter  how  many  concessions  their  teachers  made  to 
them,  they  were  still  the  inferiors  of  the  whites,  and  that 
they  must  ever  remain  so.  But  the  thought  which  pro- 
duced the  deepest  chagrin  was,  that  they  had  got  these 
white  people  settled  amongst  them  by  their  own  invita- 
tion and  aid,  and  that  now  it  was  evident  they  were  not 


MISt^ION    STATIONS   OF    THE    UPPEIl    COUNTllY. 


311 


to  be  bcnofited  as  liiul  been  hoped,  as  the  wliites  were 
tiiriiing  their  attention  to  benefiting  themselves. 

As  early  as  1839,  Mr.  Smith,  an  associate  of  Mr.  Spahl- 
iiiij;  in  the  country  of  the  Nez  Perces,  was  forbidden  by 
the  high  chief  of  the  Nez  Perces  to  cultivate  the  ground. 
He  iiad  been  permitted  to  build,  but  was  assured  that  if  ho 
brolvL'  the  soil  for  the  purpose  of  farming  it,  the  ground 
s )  Ijroken  should  serve  to  bury  him  in.  Still  Smith  went 
on  in  tlie  spring  to  prepare  for  ploughing,  and  the  chief 
seeing  him  ready  to  begin,  inquired  if  he  recollected  that 
he  liiul  l)ecn  forbidden.  Yet  persisting  in  his  undertaking, 
several  of  the  Indians  came  to  him  and  takhig  him  by  the 
shoulder  asked  him  again  "if  he  did  not  know  that  the  hole 
he  should  make  in  the  earth  would  be  made  to  serve  for 
his  grave."  Upon  which  third  warning  Smith  left  off,  and 
(jiiitted  the  country.  Other  missionaries  also  left  for  the 
Wallanict  Valley.  •  ^ 

In  1842  there  were  three  mission  stations  in  the  upper 
country;  that  of  Dr.  Whitman  at  Waiilatpu  on  the  Walla- 
Walla  River,  that  of  Mr.  Spalding  on  the  Clearwater  Iliver, 
called  Lapwai,  and  another  on  the  Spokane  River,  called 
Cimakaiu.  These  missions  were  from  one  hundred  and 
twenty  to  three  hundred  miles  distant  from  each  other, 
and  numbered  altogether  only  about  one  ''c  /5en  whites  of 
both  sexes.  At  each  of  these  stations  there  was  a  small 
body  of  land  under  cultivation,  a  few  cattle  and  hogs,  a 
flouring  and  saw  mill,  and  blacksmith  shop,  and  such  im- 
provements as  the  needs  of  the  mission  demanded.  The 
Indians  also  cultivated,  under  the  direction  of  their  teach- 
ers, some  little  patches  of  ground,  generally  but  a  small 
garden  spot,  and  the  fact  that  they  did  even  so  much  was 
very  creditable  to  those  who  labored  to  instruct  them. 
There  was  no  want  of  ardor  or  industry  in  the  Presbyterian 


,\^ 


\ 

:  .l 

i:| 

f-4 

f'-: 

'■'1' 

w 

iL 

i||- 

1 

'  f''*' 

fW ' 

i  1^  ■ 

El^i 

!    'i' 

Ml 

til^'li 

312  THK   MISHIONAUIE8  INSULTED  AND   TlIHEATKxNED. 


miasion;  on  the  contniry  thoy  applied  tliomsclves  conscien- 
tiously to  the  work  they  had  uudertukoii. 

But  this  conscientious  dischari^^c  of  duty  did  not  give 
them  immunity  from  outrnf^e.  Both  Mr.  8[)iddin(]f  and  Dr. 
Whitman  liad  been  rudely  handled  by  the  Indians,  had 
been  struck  and  spat  upon,  and  had  nose  and  oars  pulled 
Even  the  delicate  and  devoted  Mrs.  Spalding  had  been 
grossly  insulted.  Later  the  Cayuses  had  assailed  I)r. Whit- 
man in  his  house  with  war-clubs,  and  broken  down  doors 
of  communication  between  the  private  apartments  and  tlic 
public  sitting  room.  Explanations  and  promises  gencrully 
followed  these  acts  of  outrage,  yet  it  "  aid  seem  that  the 
missionaries  should  have  been  warne( 

The  station  at  Waiilatpu  being  near  fort  Walla- Walla 
was  much  resorted  to  by  visitors  and  travelers.  Dr. Whit- 
man, who  looked  upon  the  country  as  belonging  to  the 
United  States,  and  who  was  actively  ojiposcd  to  British  in- 
fluence from  ])atriotic  motives,  had  frequent  and  long  con- 
versations with  his  visitors  not  only  on  the  subject  of  the 
American  claim,  but  upon  the  natural  advantages  of  the 
country,  the  fertility  of  its  soil,  and  kindred  topics,  much 
of  which  the  Indians,  who  were  always  about  the  mission, 
were  able  to  understand,  and  from  which  they  gathered 
that  the  Americans  intended  to  possess  the  country  which 
they  considered  as  their  own.  They  had  seen  that  year 
by  year,  for  a  long  time,  some  Americans  had  passed 
through  their  country  and  gone  down  to  settle  in  the  Walla- 
met  Valley.  They  had  had  a  fresh  alarm  in  the  recent 
emigration  which  had  accompanied  Dr.  White  from  the 
States.  But  most  conclusive  of  all  was  the  fact  of  Dr. 
Whitman's  visit  to  Washington,  and  his  avowed  inten- 
tion of  bringing  back  with  him  a  large  party  of  settlers 
to  hold  the  country  against  the  English.   •  •,    /. 


l)i;.  WIIITK    VI81TS    THE'  NEZ    PEUCEB   AND   CAYUSEB.      313 


mmm 


Tiikinfjjfi(lvjintagGof  Dr.  Wliitman'sabsonco,  tlio  Cnynsos 
hud  IVi^lilened  ^Irs.  Whilinaii  IVoiri  lu'V  homo  to  tlio  Meth- 
odist mission  at  the  Dulles,  by  breaking  into  her  bcd-cham- 
lici'  at  night,  with  an  infnnious  design  from  -which  she 
hiiiclv  escaped,  and  by  snbseqnently  bnrning  down  the 
mill  and  destroying  a  consid(»rable  qnantity  of  grain. 
About  the  same  time  the  Ncz  Perces  at  the  Jjiipwni  mission 
were  very  insolent,  and  had  tlu'eatened  ^Ir.  Spalding's  life ; 
nil  of  which,  one  would  say,  was  but  a  poor  return  for  the 
care  and  instruction  bestowed  upon  them  during  six  years 
of  patient  effort  on  the  part  <d'  their  teaeliers.  Poor  as  it 
was,  the  Indians  did  not  S(3C  it  in  that  light,  but  only 
tlionglit  of  the  danger  which  threatened  them,  in  the  possi- 
ble loss  of  their  country. 

The  nnonsinoss  among  the  Indians  had  so  much  increased 
since  Dr.  AMntman's  departure,  that  it  became  necessary, 
in  November,  for  the  newly  arrived  Indian  agent  to  make 
a  journey  to  the  upper  coinitry  to  inquire  into  the  cause 
of  the  disturbances,  and  if  j)ossible  to  adjust  the  diflicul- 
tic's.  In  order  the  better  to  succeed  in  this,  Dr.  White 
obtained  the  services  of  Thomas  McKav  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Conq^any — a  son  of  that  ill-fated  McKay  Avho  perished 
onboard  the  Tonquin  in  1811,  and  whose  mother,  a  half- 
breed  woman,  was  afterwards  married  to  Dr.  McLaughlin. 

Both  by  his  Indian  blood,  his  long  service  in  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company,  and  the  natural  urbanity  of  his  dispo- 
sition, Mr.  McKay  was  a  man  of  note  among  the  Indians ; 
understanding  their  peculiarities  better,  and  having  more 
influence  over  thein  than  almost  any  trader  in  the  whole 
country.  Half  a  dozen  well  armed  men,  and  two  inter- 
preters, were  the  only  escort  which,  according  to  McKay, 
ivas  thought  necessary.  With  this  small  party  the  agent 
proceeded  to  the  mission  station  at  Waiilatpu,  where  some 


314 


A  CODE  OP  LAWS  FOR  THE  NEZ  PERCES. 


r  ■■ 

w 


gentlemen  of  the  mission  were  staying,  Mrs.  Whitman 
being  absent  at  the  Dalles.  After  taking  note  of  the  injury 
done  to  the  mission  property  here,  the  party  contiruied  on 
to  the  Lapwai  mission,  where  they  had  sent  word  for  the 
chiefs  of  the  disaffected  tribes  to  meet  them. 

Then  took  place  the  customary  exchange  of  "talks" 
which  always  characterize  the  Indian  council.  The  Indians 
were  grave  and  dignified;  they  heard  the  addresses  of  the 
agent  and  his  friends,  and  received  the  compliments  paid 
to  their  advancement  in  the  arts  and  in  letters,  with  the 
utmost  decorum.  They  professed  themselves  desirous  of 
peace,  and  appeared  satisfied  ^vith  the  promises  made  by 
the  agent  concerning  what  the  Great  Father  of  the  United 
States  intended  doing  for  them. 

As  has  been  stated  in  another  place  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company  had  done  all  it  could  to  destroy  chieftainships 
among  the  tribes,  in  o:  iei.*  to  prevent  coalitions  among 
them.  Dr.  White  restored  i^  among  the  Nez  Perces, 
by  counseling  them  to  elect  one  rJgh  chief,  and  to  have 
besides  a  chief  to  every  village,  in  all  ah  'it  a  dozen. 
to  assist  him  in  the  administration  of  the  ^iws.  A  code 
of  laws  for  their  government  was  then  proposed  and 
agreed  to,  which  made  hanging  the  punishment  for  murder 
or  for  burning  a  dwelling  house.  Theft  was  punishable 
by  double  payment,  and  by  whipping.  Misdemeanor' 
generally  were  left  to  the  discretion  of  the  chiefs,  the 
penalties  being  in  most  cases  fines,  and  in  some  cases 
whipping. 

The  naturally  good  character  of  the  Nez  Perces, 
and  the  presence  and  sanction  of  two  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Compan};,  McKay,  and  McKiniey  of  Walla- Walla, 
made  it  comparatively  easy  for  Dr.  W^hite  to  arrange 
a  peace  with  the  Indians  at  Lapwai.      On  returning  to 


fl 


L 


"^p 


DR.    WHITE .  RETURNS   TO   THE    WALLAMET. 


315 


Whitman 

the  injury 

itinued  on 

•rd  for  the 

)f  "talks" 
he  Indians 
sses  of  the 
nonts  paid 
,  with  the 
[esiroQS  of 
;  made  b) 
the  United 


Waiihitpn,  however,  few  of  the  chiefs  were  found  to  be 
assembled,  Avliile  many  of  them  held  aloof,  and  noth- 
ing satisfactory  was  concluded.  Under  these  circum- 
stances Dr.  White  left  an  appointment  to  meet  thcni 
in  April,  of  the  next  year,  for  the  purpose  of  holdin<^ 
a  council.  He  then  returned  to  the  Wallamct,  to  watch 
the  course  of  events  in  the  colony. 


son's  Bay 
pftain  ships 
ns  among 
ez  Perces, 
id  to  have 

a  dozen, 
A  code 
)0sed  and 
fjr  murder 
punishable 
iemeanor" 

diiefs,  the 
imG  cases 


.4] 


z  Perces, 

Hudson's 
illa-Walla, 
D  arrange 
urning  to 


a 


;  ■■■"'  ' 


316 


THE   PLOT    THICKENS. 


CHAPTER     XXVI. 


^■. 


1842-3.  The  plot  thickened  that  -winter,  in  the  little 
drama  being  enacted  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  As 
much  as  Dr.  McLaughlin  had  felt  it  to  be  his  duty  towards 
his  country  and  the  company  he  served,  to  do  what  he 
could  to  secure  their  interests,  he  had  also  always  acknowl- 
edged the  claims  of  humanity,  hospitality,  and  social  good 
feeling.  So  much,  ni  fact,  did  his  nature  lean  towards  the 
social  virtue  of  brotherly  love,  that  he  became  sometimes 
the  object  of  criticism  bordering  on  censure,  to  his  asso- 
ciates, who  on  their  side  were  as  patriotic  as  the  Ameri- 
cans on  theirs. 

^A,  But  so  rapidly  portentous  events  seemed  hurrying  on 
at  this  particular  juncture,  that  the  good  Doctor  was  led 
to  doubt  almost  that  he  had  done  the  best  thing  in  extend- 
ing the  hand  of  fellowship  so  freely  to  the  political  ene- 
mies of  Gr'^at  Britain.  His  critics  might  with  some  justice 
accuse  him  of  encouraging  American  settlement  in  Oregon, 
and  of  giving  just  that  touch  required,  to  shift  the  balance 
of  power  into  the  hands  of  the  United  States.  Such  a 
suspicion  against  him  would  be  bad  enough  in  the  eyes  of 
his  superiors ;  but  the  pain  it  would  occasion  him  could 
hardly  be  exceeded  by  that  occasioned  by  the  denial  to 
such  a  suspicion  given  by  the  settlers  themselves. 

In  a  memorial  to  the  Congress  of  the  United  States  they 
had  petitioned  for  the  protection  of  Government  upon  the 
express   ground   that  they  apprehended  harm,  not  only 


I.    II  I  "«ilWii» 


FOHMS    OF    GOVERNMENT    DISCUSSED. 


31T 


from  Iho  Indians,  but  from  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  ; 
wliicli  approlicnsion  was  a  direct  insinuation  or  accusation 
niriiinst  Dr.  McLaughlin.  Naturally  of  a  temper  as  irrita- 
ble as  his  heart  was  warm  and  generous,  these  attacks 
u})t)u  his  honor  and  humanity  by  tl.o  very  individuals 
whom  he  had  ever  shown  himself  willing  to  serve,  annoyed 
liim  excessively,  and  occasioned  him  to  say  that  to  those 
individuals  who  had  signed  the  obnoxious  memorial  he 
wo''l'l  never  more  show  favor.  As  might  bo  expected,  this 
parc'onable  show  of  indignation  was  made  to  stand  for  a 
tlircnt  against  the  welfare  of  the  whole  colony. 

To  add  to  the  confusion,  the  subject  of  a  form  of  gov- 
ernment continued  to  be  agitated  in  the  colony.  So  far 
as  legal  forms  were  necessary  to  the  welfare  of  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company,  they  had  in  their  charter  certain  priv- 
ileges of  arrest  and  punishment  suflicient  for  the  preser- 
vation of  good  order  amon^^  i  heir  omphiy^s ;  hence  had  no 
need  for  any  thing  further  in  ihe  way  uf  laws.  Why  ihcn 
should  they  be  desirous  of  joining  any  foreign  organiza- 
tion, or  of  subscribing  to  the  laws  mad^'  by  a  pcw[)le  who 
owed  allegiance  to  a  rival  government,  and  th(  eby 
strengthening  their  hands  against  their  own  government? 
Sueh  was  the  logical  reasoning  of  the  Canadian  settlers 
on  the  Wallamet,  who  at  that  time  rather  out  numbered 
the  Americans. 

On  the  other  hand,  it  was  equally  logical  foi  .e  Ameri- 
cans to  fear  that  a  code  of  laws  intended  only  to  apply  to 
a  portion  of  the  population,  would  prove  of  little  service^ 
and  might  be  provocative  of  frequent  difiiculties;  inas- 
much as  any  criminal  might  take  refuge  under  the  flag  of 
the  Ilndson's  Bay  Company,  and  escape  by  that  Compa- 
ny's denial  of  jurisdiction. 

In  this  interval  of  doubt,  the  colony  managed  to  get 
along  very  well  without  any  laws.     But  the  subject  was 


If/It 


il 


318 


THE    WOLF   ASSOCIATION. 


I    i 


If 


not  allowed  to  rest.  Some  truly  lo7ig-lioadod  politicians 
had  hit  upon  aii  expedient  to  unite  the  population,  Cana- 
dian and  American,  u])on  one  common  ground  of  interest. 

The  forests  which  clad  the  mountains  and  foothills  in 
perpetual  verdure,  and  the  thickets  which  skirted  the  nu- 
merous streams  flowing  into  the  Wallamet,  all  al)ouiiclod 
in  wild  animals,  wdiose  depredations  upon  the  domestic 
cattle,  lately  introduced  into  the  country,  were  a  serious 
drawback  to  their  natural  increase.  Not  a  settler,  owning 
cattle  or  hogs,  but  had  been  robbed  more  or  less  fre- 
quently by  the  wolves,  bears,  and  panthers,  Avhich  prowled 
unhindered  in  the  vicinity  of  their  herds.  ;  rukf 

Tliis  was  a  ground  of  common  interest  to  all  settlers  of 
whatever  allegiance.  Accordingly,  a  notice  was  issued 
that  a  meeting  would  be  held  at  a  certain  time  and  place, 
to  consider  the  best  means  of  preventing  the  destruction 
of  stock  in  the  country,  and  all  persons  'nterestcd  were 
invited  to  attend.  This  meeting  was  held  on  the  2cl  of 
February,  1843,  and  was  well  attended  by  both  classes  of 
colonists.  It  served,  however,  only  as  a  preliminary  step 
to  the  regular  "Wolf  Association"  meeting  which  took 
place  a  month  later.  At  the  meeting,  on  the  4th  of  March, 
there  was  a  full  attendance,  and  the  utmost  harmony  pre- 
vailed, notwithstanding  there  was  a  w^ell-defmed  suspicion 
in  the  minds  of  the  Canadians,  that  they  were  going  to  be 
called  upon  to  furnish  protection  to  something  more  than 
the  cattle  and  hogs  of  the  settlers. 

After  the  proper  parliamentary  forms,  and  the  choosing 
of  the  necessary  offit  'rs  for  the  Association,  the  meeting 
proceeded  to  fix  the  rate  of  bounty  for  each  animal  killed 
by  any  one  out  of  the  Association,  viz.  $3.00  for  a  large 
wolf;  $1.50  for  a  lynx;  $2.00  for  a  boar;  and  $5.00  for 
a  panther.  The  money  to  pay  these  bounties  was  to  be 
raised  by  subscription,  and  handed  over  to  the  treasurer 


A   COMMITTEE    OF    TWELVE    APPOINTED. 


319 


for  (lisbiir?"'ment ;  the  currency  being  drafts  on  Port  Van- 
couver, the  .iission,  and  the  Milling  Company;  besides 
wheat  and  other  commodities. 

This  business  being  arranged,  the  real  object  of  the 
meeting"  was  announced  in  this  wise : 

^'Bcsolvcd, — That  a  committee  be  appointed  to  take  into 
consideration  the  propriety  of  taking  measures  for  the 
civil  and  military  protection  of  this  colony." 

A  committee  of  twelve  were  then  selected,  and  the 
meeting  adjourned.  But  in  that  committee  there  was  a 
most  subtle  mingling  of  all  the  elements — missionaries, 
mountain-men,  and  Canadians — an  attempt  by  an  offer  of 
the  honors,  to  fuse  into  one  all  the  several  divisions  of  po- 
litical sentiment  in  Oregon. 

That  the  Canadians  were  prepared  for  something  of  this 
kind  was  probable  from  several  circumstances.  In  the 
first  place,  the  subject  of  government,  in  several  forms, 
had  been  openly  discussed  that  winter.  The  immigration, 
of  the  previous  autumn  had  added,  much  to  the  social  re- 
sources of  the  colony,  both  in  numbers,  and  in  variety  of 
ideas.  The  colony  was  not  so  much  a  missionary  institu- 
tion as  formerly,  simply  because  there  had  been  an  influx 
of  other  than  missionary  brains ;  and  there  w^ere  people 
now  in  Oregon,  who,  after  studying  the  position  of  affairs, 
were  able  to  see  the  merits  and  demerits  of  the  various 
propositions  brought  up.  Even  in  the  Debating  Society, 
which  was  maintained  by  the  most  able  men  of  the  colony 
and  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  at  the  Wallamet  Falls, 
the  subject  of  a  provisional  form  of  government  was  freely 
and  fully  discussed ; — some  parties  favoring  the  adoption 
of  a  simple  code  of  such  laws  as  were  needful  to  regulate 
society  in  that  isolated  country,  temporarily,  until  the 
United  States  should  recognize  and  adopt  them  into  the 
Union.  Others  wished  for  an  independent  form  of  gov- 
21 


r»,  S 


i 


320 


A   rUOVISIONAL   GOVERNMENT    RECOMMENDED. 


crnment,  acknowledging  no  {illegiancc  to  any  other,  eitlior 
then  or  kiter.  A  few  still  argued  for  no  change  in  the 
then  existing  state  of  things,  feeling  that  no  necessity  had 
yet  arisen  for  manufacturing  governments. 

Of  the  independent  government  party  Dr.  McLaughlin 
was  Lelieved  to  be.  Even  some  of  the  mission  party  fa- 
vored a  separate  government,  if,  after  waiting  a  term  of 
four  years,  the  United  States  had  set  up  no  claim  to  their 
allegiance.  But  the  greater  number  of  the  people,  not 
Canadians,  and  the  mountain-men  especially,  were  for  a 
provisional  government  to  last  as  long  r.s  in  the  course  of 
events  it  was  needed,  after  which  its  pc  wers  were  to  re- 
vert to  the  United  States.  '.     ''■  ■?'" 

In  viev/"  of  all  this  talk,  the  Canadianr,  were  prepared 
with  an  address  which  was  to  express  thei ;  view  of  the 
case,  and  would  have  presented  it  at  the  m.^eting  of  the 
Wolf  Association,  had  not  that  meeting  been  so  thorou?hlv 
"wolfish"  in  its  action  as  almost  to  disarm  suspicion,  and 
quite  prevent  any  reference  to  the  main  topic  of  thought 
in  all  minds.  The  address  was  therefore  reserved  for  a 
more  appropriate  occasion,  which  was  not  long  in  coming. 

On  the  2d  day  of  May,  1843,  the  committee  appointed 
March  4th  to  "take  into  consideration  the  propriety  of  tak- 
ing measures  for  the  civil  and  military  protection  of  the 
colony,"  met  at  Champoeg,  the  Canadian  settlement,  and 
presented  to  the  i3eople  their  ultimatum  in  favor  of  organ- 
izing a  provisional  government. 

On  a  motion  being  made  that  the  report  of  the  commit- 
tee should  be  accepted,  it  was  put  to  vote,  and  lost.  All 
^  -was  now  confusion,  various  expressions  of  disappointment 
or  gratification  being  mingled  in  one  tempest  of  sound. 

When  the  confusion  had  somewhat  subsided,  Mr.  G.  W. 
LeBreton  made  a  motion  that  the  meeting  should  divide; 
those  who  were  in  favor  of  an  organization  taking  their 


M'r 


KEPOIIT   ACCEPTED — THE    DIE    CAST. 


321 


i)ositions  on  the  right  hand ;  and  those  opposed  to  it  on 
the  lelt,  marching  into  lile.  The  propcxsition  carried ;  and 
Joe  Meek,  who,  in  all  this  historical  reminiscence  we  have 
almost  lost  sight  of — though  he  had  not  lost  sight  of 
^.y^>lx[ii — stepped  to  the  front,  with  a  characteristic  air  of 
the  tree-born  American  in  his  gait  and  gestures: — 

'•  Who's  for  a  divide  !  All  in  favor  of  the  Report,  and 
au  Organization,  follow  me!" — then  marched  at  the  head 
of  his  column,  which  speedily  fell  into  line,  as  did  also  the 
op})ositc  party. 

On  counting,  fifty-two  were  found  to  be  ou  the  right 
baud  side,  and  fifty  o]i  the  left, — so  evenly  were  the 
two  parties  balanced  at  that  time.  When  the  result  was 
made  known,  once  more  Mcek's  voice  rang  out — 

"Three  cheers  for  our  side!" 

It  did  not  need  a  second  invitation ;  but  loud  and  long 
the  shout  went  up  for  Fheedom  ;  and  loudest  and  longest 
were  heard  the  voices  of  the  American  •'mountain-men." 
Thus  the  die  was  cast  which  made  Oregon  ultimately  a 
nieiuber  of  the  Federal  Union. 

The  Canadians  were  somewhat  alarmed  ai:  the  demon- 
strations they  had  witnessed,  and  withdrew  from  the  meet- 
ing soon  after  the  last  vote  was  taken,  not,  however,  with- 
out presenting  the  address,  whicn  had  been  previously 
prepared ;  and  which  is  given  here,  both  as  a  curiosity  of 
literature,  and  a  comprehensive  bit  of  Oregon  history. 


•    '•^■'^■ 


ADDRESS 

OF  THE  CANADIAN  CITIZENS  OF  OIIEGON  TO  THE  MEETING  AT  CHAMPOEG. 

MARCH  4th,  1843. 

We,  the  Canadian  citizens  of  the  WiHamette,  considering,  with  interest  and 
iX'llection,  the  subject  which  unites  the  people  at  the  present  meeting,  present  to 
ilii'  AnnTican  citizens,  and  particuhvrly  to  the  gentlemen  who  called  said  meet- 
iiip'.  the  unanimous  expression  of  our  sentiments  of  c./rdiality,  desire  of  imion 
iind  inexhaustible  peace  between  all  the  people,  in  view  of  our  duty  and  the  in- 
terest of  the  new  colony,  and  declare ; — 


i  .  i 


**— ■ 


,U.X.::- 


322 


ADDKESS   OF    THE    CANADIANS. 


It 


1st.  That  wc  wish  for  hiws,  or  reguhitions,  for  the  welfare  of  our  persons 
and  the  security  of  our  property  and  hihors, 

2d.  Tliat  we  do  not  intend  to  rebel  against  the  measures  of  that  kind  taken 
last  yeai',  l)y  a  party  of  the  people ; — although  we  do  not  approve  of  eertaia 
regulations,  nor  certain  modes  of  laws; — let  those  magistrates  finish  their  time, 

3d.  Tiiat  we  will  not  address  a  new  petition  to  the  Government  of  the  Uni- 
ted States,  because  we  have  our  reasons,  till  the  line  be  decided,  and  the  fron- 
tiers of  the  states  are  fixed. 

4th.  That  Ave  are  opposed  to  the  regulations  anticipated,  and  exposed  to 
consequences  for  the  quantity,  direction,  &c.,  of  lands,  and  whatsoever  expiMise 
for  the  same  lands,  because  we  have  no  direct  guarantee  from  the  government 
to  come,  and,  perhaps,  to-morrow,  all  thoj^e  measures  may  be  broken. 

5th.  That  we  do  not  wish  a  provisional  mode  of  government,  too  self-inter- 
ested, and  full  of  degrees,  useless  to  our  j)ower,  and  overloading  the  colony  in- 
stead of  imjjroving  it ;  besides,  men  of  laws  and  science  are  too  scarce,  and 
have  too  much  to  do  in  such  a  new  country. 

Gth.  That  we  wish  either  the  mode  of  senate  jr  council,  to  judge  the  difE- 
culties,  punish  the  crimes,  (except  capital  penalties,)  fid  make  the  regulations 
suitable  to  the  people. 

7th.  That  the  same  council  be  elected,  and  composed  of  members  from  all 
parts  of  the  country,  and  should  act  in  body,  on  the  plan  of  civilized  countries 
in  parliament,  or  as  a  jury,  and  to  be  represented,  for  example,  by  the  president 
of  said  council,  and  another  member,  as  judge  of  peace,  in  each  county,  allow- 
ing the  principle  of  recalling  to  the  whole  senate. 

8th.  Tliat  the  members  should  be  influenced  to  interest  themselves  to  their 
own  welfare,  and  that  of  the  public,  by  the  love  of  doing  good,  rather  than  l)y 
the  hope  of  gain,  in  order  to  take  off  from  the  esteem  of  the  people  all  suspi- 
cions of  interest  in  the  persons  of  their  representatives. 

9th.  Tliat  they  must  avoid  every  law  loading,  and  inexpedient  to  the  peo- 
ple, especially  to  the  new  arrivals.  Unnecessary  taxes,  and  whatever  records 
are  of  that  kind,  we  do  not  want  them. 

10th.  That  the  militia  is  useless  at  present,  and  rather  a  danger  of  bad  sus- 
picion to  the  Indians,  and  a  dcday  for  the  necessary  labors,  in  the  same  time  it 
is  a  load ;  we  do  not  want  it,  either,  at  present. 

11th.  That  we  consider  the  country  free,  at  present  to  all  nations,  till  gov- 
ernment shall  have  decided ;  open  to  every  individual  wishing  to  settle,  without 
any  distinction  of  origin,  and  without  asking  him  anything,  either  to  become  an 
English,  Spanish,  or  American  citizen. 
I  1 2th.  So  we,  English  subjects,  proclaim  to  be  free,  as  well  as  those  who 
came  from  France,  California,  United  States,  or  even  natives  of  this  country; 
and  we  desire  unison  with  all  the  respectable  citizens  who  wish  tg  settle  in  this 
country  *  or,  we  ask  to  be  recognized  as  free  amongst  ourselves,  to  make  r.ich 
regulations  as  appear  suitable  to  our  wants,  save  the  general  interest  of  hanng 
justice  from  all  strangers  who  might  injure  us,  and  that  our  reasonable  customs 
and  pretensions  be  respected. 


ELECTION    OF    OFFICERS — MEEK    CHOSEN    SHERIFF.       323 


l.'ltli.  Tliat  wo  are  willinr;  to  submit  to  any  lawful  govcrnuR'nt,  when  it 
coini's. 

14tii.  That  we,  do  not  iorjrct  that  we  must  make  laws  only  for  nceessary  oir- 
cuins'tances.  llie  more  laws  there  are,  the  more  opportunities  for  ro;,fiierv,  for 
those  who  make  a  practice  of  it,  and,  perhaps,  the  more  alterations  there  "will 
be  ?'>nio  day. 

lath.  That  we  do  not  forget  in  a  trial,  that  before  all  fraud  on  fulfdling  of 
fdiiu'  points  of  law,  the  ordintiry  proofs  of  the  certainty  of  the  fact  ought  to  be 
(liih-  wci'^iicd,  so  that  justice  may  be  done,  and  no  shame  given  for  fraud. 

Itltli,  In  a  new  country,  the  more  men  employed  and  paid  by  the  public,  the 
less  ri'iiiains  for  industry. 

17tli.    That  no  one  can  be  more  desirous  than  we  arc  for  the  prosperity, 
ainclioratioiis,  and  general  peace  of  the  country,  and  especially  for  the  guaran- 
ti'o  of  our  rights  and  liberties ;  and  such  is  the  wish  we  make  for  all  those  who 
are,  or  may  become,  our  fellow<'ountrynien,  &c.,  for  long  years  of  peace. 
[Then  follow  our  names  and  persons.] 


■'if 


The  business  of  the  meeting  was  concluded  by  the  elec- 
tion of  a  Supreme  Judge,  with  probate  powers,  a  clerk 
of  the  court,  a  sheriff,  four  magistrates,  four  constables, 
a  trea.surer,  a  mayor,  and  a  captain, — the  two  latter  offi- 
cers being  instructed  to  form  companies  of  mounted  rifle- 
men. In  addition  to  these  officers,  a  legislative  committee 
^vas  chosen,  consisting  of  nine  members,  who  were  to  re- 
port to  the  people  at  a  public  meeting  to  be  held  at  Cham- 
poeg  on  the  5th  of  July  following.  Of  the  legislative 
committee,  two  were  mountain-men,  with  whose  names  the 
reader  is  familiar — Newell  and  Doughty.  Among  the 
other  appointments,  was  Meek,  to  the  office  of  sheriff;  a 
position  for  which  his  personal  qualities  of  courage  and 
good  humor  admirably  fitted  him  in  the  then  existing  state 
of  society. 

And  thus  was  formed  the  Provisional  Government  of 
Oregon — a  country  without  a  governor,  or  any  magiste- 
rial head ;  and  without  a  treasury,  or  means  to  pay  its  leg- 
islative committee,  except  by  subscription,  and  *  at  the 
rate  of  $1.25  per  day  in  orders  on  some  of  the  few  busi- 
ness firms  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.     On  the  4th  of 


324 


THE    FIRST    OREGON    LEGISLATURE. 


July  the  people  mot  at  Charapoeg  to  celebrate  the  day, 
and  eainped  on  the  ground,  to  be  in  readiness  for  the 
meeting  of  the  5th.  At  this  meeting  the  reports  of  the 
various  committees  of  the  legislature  were  approved  by 
the  people,  Dr.  McLaughlin  voting  with  the  others. 

At  this  meeting  the  Judiciary  Committee  recommeiKled 
that  the  executive  power  should  be  vested  in  a  committee 
of  three  persons^  elected  by  qualified  voters  at  the  aniiuiil 
election,  who  should  have  power  to  grant  pardons  and  re- 
prieve fur  offences  against  the  laws  of  the  territory;  to 
call  out  the  military  force  of  the  territory  to  repel  inva- 
sion or  suppress  insurrection,  to  take  care  that  the  laws 
were  faithfully  executed,  and  to  recommend  such  laws  as 
they  may  consider  necessary,  to  the  representatives  of  the 
people,  for  their  action :  two  members  of  this  committee 
to  constitute  a  quorum  to  transact  business.  ,;  ;.);))-, 

Among  the  most  notable  of  the  acts  of  the  first  Oregon 
legislature,  was  one  which  regarded  a  militia  law,  order- 
ing the  territorial  militia  to  be  formed  into  one  battalion 
consistnig  of  three  companies  of  mounted  riflemen;  and 
another  regarding  marriage,  which  permitted  "All  male 
persons,  of  the  age  of  sixteen  and  upwards,  and  all  fe- 
males of  the  age  of  fourteen  and  upwards"  to  engage  in 
morriage,  provided  the  sanction  of  the  parents  could  be 
obtained.  Unfortunately  for  the  good  of  Oregon  there 
were  too  many  parents,  who,  looking  forward  to  the  pas- 
sage of  the  Donation  Act,  and  being  desirous  of  gaining 
possession  through  their  children  of  large  bodies  of  land, 
were  only  too  eager  to  see  their  children  married  and  as- 
suming the  responsibilities  of  parentage,  before  their  own 
childhood  was  fairly  passed.  r  •■.„;-. 

As  for  the  laws  generally  adopted,  they  were  those  of 
Iowa  and  New  York  mixed,  and  made  suitable  to  the  con- 
dition of  the  colony.  ,   ^  -  -^      ,r^.. 


■i »  ; 


INDIAN    DIRTUUHANCES   IN    THE   UPPER   COUNTRY.        325' 


T 


Tlio  result  of  success  in  the  matter  of  eflfocting  an  or- 
ganization Avas  not  altogether  unalloyed  happiness.  The 
Indians  in  the  upper  country  were  again  in  a  tumult,  and 
freely  expressed  their  dread  of  the  coming  immigration, 
tlicii  on  its  way,  under  the  leadership  of  Dr.  Whitman. 
They  were  not  ignorant  of  what  had  taken  place  in  the 
Wallaniet  Valley ;  neither,  upon  reflection,  did  they  look 
upon  the  visit  of  the  Indian  agent  in  the  previous  autumn 
iis  a  promise  of  good,  but  regarded  it  rather  as  a  token  of 
the  encroachments  of  the  whites.  So  far  as  the  Nez  Per- 
ces  were  concerned,  they  had  kept  the  laws  given  them 
at  that  time,  partly  through  the  natural  prudence  of  their 
dispositions,  and  partly  through  the  wise  counsels  of  their 
head  chief,  Ellis,  who,  having  been  educated  at  the  Red 
River  settlement  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  was  pre- 
pared to  use  a  reasonable  discretion  iu  controling  the  bad 
passions  of  his  people. 

l>nt  the  Cayuses  and  Walla- Wallas,  the  allies  and  rela- 
tives of  the  Nez  Perces,  were  in  a  different  frame  of  mind, 
having  more  immediate  cause  for  alarm,  from  the  fact  that 
their  own  teacher,  Dr.  Whitman,  was  bringing  upon  them 
tlie  curse  they  dreaded.  In  a  state  of  mind  totally  un- 
settled and  rebellious,  they  waited  for  the  promised  visit 
of  Dr.  White  in  the  spring. 

Such  were  the  reports  which  had  reached  the  Wallamet 
from  the  upper  country  of  the  turbulence  of  the  Indians, 
that  it  was  regarded  as  a  dangerous  movement  for  the 
agent  to  go  among  them.  However,  he  resolved  to  un- 
dertake it,  and  accompanied  by  only  one  gentleman  from 
the  mission,  Mr.  Hines,  and  their  servants,  set  out  for  the 
infected  district.  Before  reaching  Vancouver  they  were 
met  by  a  letter  from  Dr.  McLaughlin,  advising  them  not 
to  proceed,  and  informing  them  that,  from  intelligence 
lately  received,  there  was  really  much  to  apprehend.     He 


■  V  ; 

-  i. 
n 


i 

1 

w 

32G      THE   AGENT   STAHTS   FOU   THE   INFECTED   DISTUIOT. 

also  informed  thcui  that  the  IndiauH  had  expressed  their 
deterraiiuitioii  not  to  make  war  upon  the  Hudson's  Iky 
Company,  but  only  upon  the  Americans ;  and  gave  it  as 
his  opinion  that  the  best  way  to  end  the  disturlmuce  was 
to  remain  quietly  at  home. 

Not  agreeing  with  Dr.  McLaughlin  in  rcsi^oct  to  the 
best  manner  of  soothing  the  Indians,  Dr.  White  and  Mr. 
Hines  proceeded  to  the  fort,  where  they  wished  to  obtain 
supplies  of  goods,  provisions,  powder,  and  balls  for  the 
expedition.  This  visit  to  the  fort,  under  the  circumstances, 
was  one  of  those  frequent  acts,  half  cringing  and  half  au- 
dacious, which  the  sensitive  historian  rather  flinches  from 
recording,  as  reflecting  upon  the  honor  and  i.niity  of 
Americans.  In  explanation  we  shall  quote  V.!.  Hines' 
own  words : 


"  Called  on  Dr.  ISIcLaiighlin  for  goods,  provisions,  powder,  lialls,  &c.,  for  our 
accommodation  on  our  voyage  up  the  Columl)la;  anil  altlioujj;li  he  was  greatly 
suprised  that,  under  the  circumstances,  we  should  think  of  going  among  those 
excited  Indians,  yet  he  ordered  his  clerks  to  let  us  have  whatever  we  wantcil. 
However,  we  found  it  rather  squally  at  the  fort,  not  so  much  on  account  of  our 
going  among  the  Indians  of  the  interior,  as  in  consequence  of  a  certain  memo- 
rial having  been  sent  to  the  United  States  Congi'css,  implicatiiu;  the  conduct  of 
Dr.  McLauglilin  and  the  lluihoti's  Bay  Company,  and  hearing  the  signatures  of 
seventy  Americans.  I  inquired  of  the  Doctor  if  he  had  refused  to  grant  sup- 
plies to  those  Americans  who  had  signed  that  document ;  he  replied  that  he 
had  not,  but  that  the  authors  of  the  memorial  need  expect  no  more  favors  from 
him.  Not  being  one  of  the  authors,  hut  merely  a  signer  of  the  petition,  I  did  not 
come  under  the  ban  of  the  company,  consequently  I  obtained  my  outfit  for  the 
expedition,  though  at  first  there  were  strong  indications  that  I  would  be  refused." 

To  the  honor  of  Dr.  McLaughlin  be  it  said,  that  how- 
ever great  the  provocation,  he  never  avenged  his  injuries 
upon  the  American  settlers,  by  refusing  to  aid  them  in 
their  times  of  want  or  peril.  -^^^ 

Arrived  at  the  Dalles,  the  Indian  agent  tarried  only  long 
enough  to  inquire  into  the  working  of  the  system  of  laws 
which  he  had  persuaded  them  to  accept  on  his  previous 


DOIUO,   THK    WICKIJU    IIALI'  llUHHl). 


:m 


visit.     Tlio  report  wliicli  the  Itulians  luul  to  f,nvo  wiis  l)otli 
nieliiiiclii)ly  and  aiiuising.     According  to  Mr.  IT.incs'  Jo  ir- 

iiiil  (if  tlu-  expedition: 

'•Tlu^  cliii'is  li;i(l  fi)iiiiil  niiiclMlilTiciilty  in  rnforciiii^  tli(!  laws;  in  )miii.>*liinf:f 
(Icliiiiim'nts,  some  of  tlic  Imli;iiis  n-<istiii^  cvfii  to  tlu!  point  of  tiui  kiiit^.  'I'iio 
{•liiil's  wluj  were  iippcjintcil  tlirouM;li  the  intliuMico  of  Dr.  Wliili-,  witi!  ilcsirous 
tJKit  tlu'^f  r(';:iil:itioiis  shoiilil  continia',  cvidfiitlv  Ix'Cimsi^  llicy  |)liici'il  llic  people 
uiuiiT  tlicir  iihsoliitc  control,  and  jjavc  tlifui  the  power  to  re;;nlate  all  their 
iiittrcDiirse  with  tlio  whites,  and  with  the  other  Indian  tribes.  IJiit  thi-  other 
iiilliuntial  men,  who  were  not  in  oOice,  desired  to  know  of  Dr.  White,  of  what 
liiiKlif  tlii.-<  whippinjf  system  was  }ioini,'  to  hv.  to  them.  They  said  they  were 
ivilliiiu' it  should  continue,  pr()vi(K'<l  they  were  to  receiver  blankets,  shins,  and 
[lints,  as  a  reward  for  beinj^  whippe(L  'Jliey  had  been  whipped  a  j^ood  many 
tiiiiis,  and  ihey  had  ;i;ot  n()thin<^  Ibr  it,  and  it  had  done  them  no  jjocjd.  if  this 
Mh'  ol'  things  was  to  continue  it  was  all  good  Ibr  nothing,  and  they  would  throw 
it  all  away.  In  reply  they  were  tohl  by  the  Doctor  that  we  could  not  he  de- 
t.iined  to  settle  any  of  their  didiculties  now,  that  wo  were  going  farther  intf)  the 
in'i  rior,  and  were  in  a  very  great  hurry,  and  that  when  wi;  retin-ncd  he  would 
iiiilcav.T  to  make  all  straight.  But  lie  wished  them  to  understand  that  they 
mill  nut  expect  pay  for  being  flogged,  when  they  deserved  it.  They  laughed 
luartily  at  the  idea,  and  dispersed,  giving  us  an  opportunity  to  make  aiTange- 
niiiits  fur  the  continuance  of  our  journey." 

On  leaving  the  Dalles,  Dr.  White  proceeded  as  rapidly 
as  possible,  now  with  horses  instead  of  boats,  to  the  sta- 
tion at  Waiilatpu,  where  Mrs.  Whitman  and  a  Mr.  Giger 
of  the  mission  were  awaiting  them  with  anxious  expecta- 
tion. Dr.  White  found  quite  as  much  uneasiness  as  he 
liiul  anticipated,  and  learned  incidentally  why  he  had  been 
counseled  at  Fort  Vancouver  not  to  attempt  going  among 
the  Indians.  It  appeared  on  investigation  that  a  mischiev- 
ous half-breed,  named  Dorio,  son  of  the  same  Madame 
Dorio  who  figures  as  a  heroine  in  Irving's  Astoria,  being 
well  informed  in  Indian  sentiments,  and  influential  as  an 
interpreter  among  them,  had  wickedly  inflamed  the  pas- 
sions of  the  Indians  by  representing  to  them  that  it  was 
useless  making  farms  and  building  houses,  as  in  a  short 
time  the  whites  would  overrun  their  land,  and  destroy 
everything,  besides  killing  them.  ._,      _ 


328 


YIHTT    OF    YELLOW-SEUPENT    TO   VANCOUVER, 


T^ 


'Ids  evil  counsel  so  well  ngreed  with  what  tliov 
had  seen  and  heard,  and  had  reason  to  apprehend,  tlmt 
much  excitement  was  the  result.  The  Avarriors  amoiiif 
the  Cay  uses  were  eager  to  go  to  war  at  once,  and  exter- 
minate all  the  white  settlements  on  the  Wallamot  and 
elsewhere.  But  the  old  nuvii  counseled  patience  and 
caution,  advising  a  consultation  with  the  Hudsu'^s  Bay 
Company,  who  liad  always  been  their  friends.  They  re- 
membered the  answer  they  had  received,  when  on  the 
first  breaking  out  of  their  fear  of  the  Americans  they  had 
gone  to  Fort  Walla-Walla,  to  ask  McKinley's  o])inior,  of 
the  expediency  of  driving  the  missionaries  away  from  their 
lands.  "You  are  braves,"  said  McKinley,  "and  thc'c  are 
manv  of  you.  It  would  be  c.sv  to  kill  two  men  and  two 
women,  and  a,  few  little  children.  Go  quickly  and  do  it,  if 
you  wish ;  but  remember  if  you  do  so,  that  1  will  have 
you  punished."'     For  that  time  the  subject  Avas  dropped. 

But  now  that  their  fears  were  thoroughly  aroused,  the 
Cayuses  resolved  to  send  a  messenger  to  Dr.  McLaughlin 
at  Vancouver  to  inquire  what  had  better  be  done  in  view 
of  their  difficulties,  and  to  take  obsv^rvations  in  the  lower 
countr3^  for  the  Indians  wei'e  wel]  aware  that  the  -whites 
had  not  been  at  peaije  a,inong  themselves,  and  that  Foit 
Vancouver  had  been  strengthened  in  its  defences,  and  had 
had  a  go\  rnment  vessel  lying  before  it  the  previous  win- 
ter. Seeing  that  there  seemed  more  unity  between  tlie 
Hudson's  Bay  Company  and  the  Americans,  a  new  fear 
entered  into  their  minds  lest  they  might  combine  against 
tliem. 

Full  of  su  jh  feelings,  a  WaUa-Walla  chief,  called  Yellow- 
Serpent,  made  a  journey  to  Vancouver  and  opened  his 
lieart  to  Dr.  McLaughlin.  In  answer  to  his  inquiries  the 
Doctor  assured  him  that  there  was  nothing  to  apprehend 
from  any  class  of  whites ;  that  he  could  not  believe  the 


A    VISIT    TO    LAPWAI. 


329 


Americans  had  any  warlike  designs  tow^ard  tlicm,  and  that 
if  they  should  make  war  on  them,  they  would  not  be  joined 
by  the  Hudson's  Bay  men.  Comforted  by  the  assurances 
of  tlio  great  white  chief,  Yellow-Serpent  returned,  and 
reported  to  his  people,  and  for  a  time  tln^y  were  quiet, 
ami  worked  at  their  little  plantations,  as  ttraght  them  ])j 
Dr.  Wliitman. 

As  wo  have  seen  it  was  but  a  brief  lull  in  the  rising  tem- 
pest. The  wicked  Dorio  still  continued  to  poison  their 
niiiids,  and  to  stir  up  all  the  native  suspiciousness  and  jeal- 
ousy of  the  Indian  character.  Thus  it  happened  that  on 
Dr.  While's  arrival  they  were  full  of  mutiny,  as  difficult  of 
approach  as  in  the  preceding  autumn.  However,  Dr. 
White,  witli  Mr.  Hines,  Mi's.  Whitman  and  Mr.  Giger, 
made  many  friendly  advances,  and  a  meeting  was  finally 
appointed  to  take  place  after  the  agent  had  first  made  a 
vLsit  to  the  Nez  Perces.  v-.-  - 

The  Nez  Percei  were  found  to  have  remembered  their 
promises,  and  to  L.ive  continued  to  profit  by  the  instruc- 
tions of  their  teachers.  They  received  the  agent  in  a  cor- 
dial manner,  entertaining  hhn  and  his  friends  with  a  re- 
hearsal of  a  late  battle  with  the  Blackfeet  in  which  they 
had  been  victorious.  Arrangements  were  then  made  for 
jlr.  S|)alding,  Ellis,  and  several  hundreds  of  men,  women 
and  children  to  visit  Waiilatpu  in  company  with  the  Doc- 
tor, as  the  Cayuses  would  agree  to  nothing  without  first 
consulting  with  the  chief  of  the  Nez  Perces. 

Nor  were  they  all  inclined  to  receive  the  agent  hospita- 
bly, even  in  company  with  Ellis.  The  reception  was 
conducted  in  the  usual  style  of  Indian  welcome,  by  first 
exhibiting  their  warlike  accomplishments  in  a  sham  battle, 
so  well  fought  and  life-like  in  its  representation  that  even 
Olis  was  almost  persuaded  some  real  fighting  would  follow. 
The  (wcitemeiit  was  finally  allayed  by  Mr.  Spalding  pro- 


p» 


330 


THE    CONFERENCE   AT    WAIILATPU. 


posing  to  afljonin.  to  the  house  of  worship  for  eveniiiff 
prayers,  after  which  the  people  scattered  to  their  lodges 
to  await  the  meeting  of  the  next  day. 

On  the  following  morning  the  chiefs  came  together  at 
Dr.  Whitman's,  and  Dr.  White  addressed  them.  He  assured 
them  that  if  they  feared  war  on  the  part  of  the  whites 
they  were  quite  mistaken ;  that  the  Great  Father  of  the 
whites  had  not  sent  him  among  them  for  that  purpose,  but 
to  come  to  some  understanding  about  their  future  inter- 
course. He  promised  them  that  if  they  would  lay  aside 
their  former  practices,  as  they  had  been  instructed  by  the 
missionaries  to  do,  leave  oif  feuds  among  themselves,  and 
cultivate  the  land,  they  might  become  a  great  and  happy 
people.  He  counseled  unity  between  the  chiefs,  and  con- 
sideration and  kindness  towards  the  people,  and  also  coun- 
seled the  people  to  obey  the  chiefs,  and  love  and  pray  for 
them.  ■  !v  •> 

The  subject  of  the  laws  was  then  brought  forward,  and 
the  young  men  were  exhorted  to  accept  and  keep  them, 
that  when  they  became  chiefs  their  people  might  obey 
them.  The  laws  were  then  read  both  in  English  and  Nez 
Perce,  when  the  Wall  a- Walla  chief,  Yellow-Serpent,  arose 
and  said : 

"  1  have  a  message  to  you.  Where  are  these  laws 
from  ?  Are  they  from  God,  or  from  the  earth  ?  I  would 
you  might  say  they  were  from  God.  But  I  think  they  are 
from  the  earth,  because,  what  I  know  of  white  men,  they 
do  not  honor  these  laws."  A  short  speech,  and  to  the 
point. 

When  it  was  explained  to  him  that  in  all  civilized  coun- 
tries men  were  bound  to  honor  the  laws,  he  replied  that 
he  was  "  glad  to  learn  that  it  was  so,  because  many  of 
his  people  had  been  angry  with  him  when  he  had  whipped 
them  for  crime,  and  had  told  him  that  God  would  send 


THE   LAWS   ACCEPTED — A   GRAND   TREAT. 


331 


him  to  bell  for  it,  and  he  was  glad  to  know  that  it  was 
iiot  displeasing  to  God." 

Other  chiefs  then  spoke  in  turn,  one  favoring  the  adop- 
tion of  the  laws,  another  rejecting,  and  giving  as  a  reason 
that  the  chief  in  favor  was  a  Catholic ;  to  which  Doctor 
White  replied  that  religious  belief  had  nothing  to  do  with 
the  making  or  keeping  of  laws.  And  after  this  an  old 
chief,  who  had  seen  Lewis  and  Clarke  when  they  were  in 
the  country,  spoke  of  the  treaty  made  with  them  ;  adding 
that  "  ever  since  that  time  people  had  been  coming  along 
and  promising  lO  do  them  good;  but  that  they  had  all 
|)asse<l  by  and  left  no  blessing  behind  them.  That  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company  had  persuaded  theui  to  keep  good 
friends  with  them,  and  to  let  the  Americans  alone.  But 
if  the  Americans  designed  to  do  good  to  them,  why  did 
they  not  bring  goods  with  them  to  leave  with  their  peo- 
ple. They  were  fools  to  listen  to  the  promises  of  the 
Americans;  they  only  would  talk,  while  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company  gave  presents."  In  reply  to  which  begging 
speech  the  Doctor  reminded  them  that  his  business  with 
them  was  that  neither  of  missionary  or  trader.  , 

After  a  day  spent  in  listening  to  and  answering  speech- 
es the  meeting  adjourned.  In  the  evening  the  Nez  Perce 
chief,  Ellis,  and  his  associate  Sawyer,  held  a  talk  with  Dr. 
White  in  which  they  demanded  a  salary,  as  chiefs ;  and 
thought  that  they  wore  already  entitled  to  enough  to 
malce  them  wealthy.  So  avaricious  is  the  Indian  in  all  his 
feelings  and  pursuits. 

On  the  day  follov/ing  the  speeches  were  resumed,  the 
laws  linally  accepted,  and  the  Catholic  chief  Tan-i-tan  was 
elected  to  the  office  of  head  chief,  but  resigned  it  the 
next  day  in  favor  of  his  brother  Five-Crows,  because,  as 
he  said,  his  religion  differed  from  that  of  most  of  his  na- 
tion, and  Five-Crows  would  be  more  agreeable  to  them. 


i    i 


332 


THE    MISSIONARIES   WARNED. 


His  decision  proved  liis  wisdom  as  well  as  his  generosity; 
for  the  people  declared  themselves  delighted  with  tlie 
change,  tliough  they  had  nothing  against  Tan-i-tan. 

At  the  conclusion   of  each  day  the  Indians  had  been 
feasted  wnth  fat  beef  and  pork,  obtained  from  the  mission; 
and  on  the  last  day  a  grand  feast  was  spread,  to  which  Dr. 
White's  party  were  invited,  and  at  which,  contrary  to  In- 
dian  custom,  the  women  w^ere  permitted  to  appear  and 
partake  ;  Dr.  White  having  made  this  a  special  request, 
and    furnished  them  with  new  dresses  for  the  occasion. 
After   this  happy  conclusion   of  business   in  the   Indian 
country.  Dr.  White  appointed  his  leave-taking  for  the  next 
morning.    Mrs.  Whitman,  who  had  been  an  anxious  and  in- 
terested spectator  of  events,  notwithstanding  the  amicable 
termination  of  the  agent's  efibrts,  thought  it  prudent  to 
return  with  his  part}?-  to  the  lower  country  until  the  time 
approached  for  her  husband's  return.     Better  for  both  had 
they  never  returned  to  Waiilatpu.     Many  were  the  war- 
nings   which    those    missionaries    had,  and    disregarded. 
Many  times  had  the   Indians  said  to  them  "  we  do  not 
wish  to  go  to  war,  but  if  the  Americans  come  to  take  away 
our  lands,  and  reduce  us  to  a  state  of  vassalage,  we  will 
fight  so  long  as  we  have  a  drop  of  blood."     Yet  no  one 
more  than  Dr.  Whitman,  did  everything  in  his  power  to 
encourage  the  settlement  of  the  country.     He  was  an  en- 
thusiast in  the  cause  of  the  American  occupation  of  Ore- 
gon ;  and  like  many  another,  in  all  the  great  questions  of 
time,   his  enthusiasm  won  for  him  only  the  crown  of  a 
martyr.  ■  ^or.iiB^ 

Dr.  White  remained  some  time  at  the  Dalles,  on  his  re- 
turn, endeavoring  to  bring  the  Indians  into  a  cheerful  sub- 
jection to  the  laws  that  had  been  given  them.  The  suc- 
cess of  the  Doctor's  labors  may  be  pretty  correctly  esti- 
mated from  events  which  will  hereafter  be  related. 


A'.': 


^rmmfimmft^ 


THE   IMMIGRATION   OF    1843. 


333 


CHAPTER    XXYII. 


The  immigration  into  Oregon  of  the  year  1843,  was 
the  lirst  since  Newell  and  Mrek,  who  had  brought  wagons 
through  to  the  Columbia  River ;  and  in  all  numbered 
nearly  nine  hundred  men,  women,  and  children.  These 
immigrants  were  mostly  from  Missouri  and  other  border 
States.  They  had  been  assisted  on  their  long  and  peril- 
ous journey  by  Dr.  Whitman,  whose  knowledge  of  the 
route,  and  the  requirements  of  the  undertaking,  made  him 
;in  invalualjlc  counselor,  as  he  was  an  untiring  friend  of 
the  innnigrants. 

At  the  Dalles  of  the  Columbia  the  wagons  were  aban- 
doned ;  it  being  too  late  in  the  season,  and  the  wants  of 
the  immigrants  too  pressing,  to  admit  of  an  effort  being 
made  to  cut  out  a  wagon  road  through  the  heavy  timber 
of  the  Cascade  mountains.  Already  a  trail  had  been  made 
over  them  and  around  the  base  of  Mount  Hood,  by  which 
cattle  could  be  driven  from  the  Dalles  to  the  settlements 
on  the  Wallamet ;  and  by  this  route  the  cattle  belonging  to 
the  train,  amounting  to  thirteen  hundred,  were  passed 
over  into  the  valley. 

But  for  the  people,  especially  the  women  and  children, 
active  and  efficient  help  was  demanded.  There  was  some- 
thing truly  touching  and  pitiable  in  the  appearance  of  these 
hundreds  of  worn-out,  ragged,  sun-burnt,  dusty,  emaciated, 
yet  indomitable  pioneers,  who,  after  a  journey  of  nearly 
two  thousand  miles,  and  of  several  months  duration,  over 


pp* 


334      PITIABLE    CONDITION    OF   THE   WOMEN   AND    CHlLDRra. 

fertile  plains,  barren  deserts,  and  rugged  mountains,  stood 
at  last  beside  the  grand  and  beautiful  river  of  theiv  hopes, 
exhausted  by  the  toils  of  their  pilgrimage,  dejected  and 
yet  rejoicing. 

Much  they  would  have  liked  to  rest,  even  here ;  but 
their  poverty  admitted  of  no  delay.  The  friends  to 
whom  they  were  going,  and  from  whom  they  must  exact 
and  receive  a  temporary  hospitality,  were  still  separated 
from  them  a  weary  and  dangerous  way.  They  delayed  as 
little  as  possible,  yet  the  fall  rains  came  upon  them,  and 
snow  fell  in  the  mountains,  so  as  seriously  to  impede  the 
labor  of  driving  the  cattle,  and  hunger  and  sickness  began 
to  affright  them. 

In  this  unhappy  situation  they  might  have  remained  a 
long  time,  had  there  been  no  better  dependence  than  the 
American  settlers  already  in  the  valley,  with  the  Metho- 
dist Mission  at  their  head  ;  for  from  them  it  does  not  ap- 
pear that  aid  came,  nor  that  any  provision  had  been  made 
by  them  to  assist  the  expected  immigrants.  As  usual  in 
these  crises,  it  was  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  who  came 
to  the  rescue,  and,  by  the  offer  of  boats,  made  it  possible 
for  those  Jlimilies  to  reach  the  Wallamet.  Not  only  were 
the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  boats  all  required,  but  canoes 
and  rafts  were  called  into  requisition  to  transport  passen- 
gers and  goods.  No  one,  never  having  made  the  voyage 
of  the  Columbia  from  above  the  Dalles  to  Vancouver, 
could  have  an  adequate  idea  of  the  perils  of  the  passage, 
as  it  was  performed  in  those  days,  by  small  boats  and  the 
flat-bottomed  "Mackinaw"  boats  of  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company.  The  Canadian  "  voyageurs,"  who  handled  a 
boat  as  a  good  rider  governs  a  horse,  were  not  always 
able  to  make  the  passage  without  accident :  how,  then, 
could  the  clumsy  landsmen,  who  were  more  used  to  the 
feel  of  a  plow  handle  than  an  oar,  be  expected  to  do  so? 


PERILS   OF    THE    COLUMniA, 


335 


Numerous  have  been  the  victims  suddenly  clutched  from 
life  by  the  grasp  of  the  whirlpools,  or  dashed  to  death 
among  the  fearful  rapids  of  the  beautiful,  but  wild  and 
pitiless,  Columbia. 

The  immigration  of  1843  did  not  escape  without  loss 
and  bereavement.  Three  brothers  from  IMissouri,  by  the 
name  of  Applegate,  with  their  families,  were  descending 
the  river  together,  when,  by  the  striking  of  a  boat  on  a 
rock  in  the  rapids,  a  number  of  passengers,  mostly  child- 
ren of  these  gentlemen,  were  precipitated  into  the  fright- 
ful current.  The  brothers  each  had  a  son  in  this  boat, 
one  of  whom  was  lost,  another  injured  for  life,  and  the 
third  escaped  as  by  a  miracle.  This  last  boy  was  only 
ton  years  of  age,  yet  such  was  the  presence  of  mind  and 
courage  displayed  in  saving  his  own  and  a  companion's 
life,  that  the  miracle  of  his  escape  might  be  said  to  be  his 
own.  Being  a  good  swimmer,  he  kept  himself  valiantly 
above  the  surface,  while  being  tossed  about  for  nearly  two 
miles.  Succeeding  at  last  in  grasping  a  feather  bed  which 
was  floating  near  him,  he  might  have  passed  the  remain- 
ing rapids  without  serious  danger,  had  he  not  been  seized, 
as  it  were,  by  the  feet,  and  drawn  down,  down,  into  a 
seething,  turning,  roaring  abyss  of  water,  where  he  was 
hold,  whirling  about,  and  dancing  up  and  down,  striking 
now  and  then  upon  the  rocks,  until  death  seemed  not 
only  imminent  but  certain.  After  enduring  this  violent 
whirling  and  dashing  for  what  seemed  a  hopelessly  long 
period  of  timic,  he  was  suddenly  vomited  forth  by  the 
whirlpool  once  more  upon  the  surface  of  the  rapids,  and, 
notwithstanding  the  bruises  he  had  received,  was  able,  by 
great  exertion,  to  throw  himself  near,  and  seize  upon  a 
ledge  of  rocks.  To  this  he  clung  with  desperation,  until, 
by  dint  of  much  effort,  he  finally  drew  himself  out  of  the 
^ater,  and  stretched  himself  on  the  narrow  shelf,  where, 
22 


■m 


I 


336 


WONDERFUL    ESCAPE   OF    YOUNG    ArPLEGATE. 


for  a  moment,  ho  swooned  away.  But  on  opening  his 
eyes,  lie  beheld,  struggling  in  the  foaming  flood,  a  youii<' 
man  who  had  been  a  passenger  in  the  wreeked  boat  with 
himself,  and  who,  though  older,  was  not  so  good  a  swim- 
mer. Calling  to  him  with  all  his  might,  to  make  his  voice 
heard  above  the  roar  of  the  rapids,  he  at  last  gained  his 
attention,  and  encouraged  him  to  try  to  reach  the  lodge 
of  rocks,  where  he  would  assist  him  to  climb  up  ;  and  the 
almost  impossible  feat  was  really  accomplishe*!  by  their 
united  eflbrts.  This  done,  young  Applegate  sank  again 
into  momentary  unconsciousness,  while  poor  exhausted 
Nature  recruited  her  forces. 

But,  although  they  were  saved  from  immediate  destruc- 
tion, death  still  stared  them  in  the  face.  That  side  of  tlie 
river  on  which  they  had  found  lodgment,  was  bounded 
by  precipitous  mountains,  coming  directly  down  to  the 
water.  They  could  neither  ascend  nor  skirt  along  them, 
for  foot-hold  there  v/as  none.  On  the  other  side  was  level 
ground,  but  to  reach  it  they  must  pass  through  the  rapids 
— an  alternative  that  looked  like  an  assurance  of  destruc- 
tion. 

In  this  extremity,  it  was  the  boy  who  resolved  to  risk 
his  life  to  save  it.  Seeing  that  a  broken  ledge  of  rock 
extended  nearly  across  the  river  from  a  point  within  his 
reach,  but  only  coming  to  the  surface  here  and  there,  and 
of  course  very  slippery,  he  nevertheless  determined  to  at- 
tempt to  cross  on  foot,  amidst  the  roaring  rapids.  Starting 
alone  to  make  the  experiment,  he  actuall}'  made  the  cross- 
ing in  safety,  amid  ihe  thundering  roar  and  dizzying  rush 
of  waters — not  only  made  it  once,  but  returned  to  assure 
his  companion  of  its  practicability.  The  young  man,  how- 
ever, had  not  the  courage  to  undertake  it,  until  he  had 
repeat' dly  been  urged  to  do  so,  and  at  last  only  by  being 
pursuaded  to  go  before,  while  his  younger  comrade  fol- 


\TE. 


opening  bis 
J(l,  a  yuuiig 
1  boat  with 
)od  a  swim- 
kc  his  voice 
gained  his 
li  tho  ledge 
p ;  and  the 
ed  by  their 
!  sank  again 
'  exliausted 


ate  destruc- 
;  side  of  the 
as  bounded 
own  to  the 
dong  them, 
Ic  was  level 
1  the  rapids 
of  destruc- 

ved  to  risk 
ige  of  rock 
within  his 
I  there,  and 
iiined  to  at- 
Starting 
e  the  cross- 
zzying  rush 
d  to  assure 
r  man,  how- 
til  he  had 
ly  by  being 
omrade  fol- 


m 


!■•* 


4 

■^W*^ 


1%, 


TRIALS    OF    THK    NEW    C0L0NI8TS. 


337 


lowod  after,  not  to  lose  si^ht  of  liim,  (for  it  was  impos- 
sihle  to  turn  around,)  and  diroct(Ml  him  where  to  place 
his  steps.  In  this  manner  that  which  appears  incredible 
WHS  accomplished,  and  the  two  arrived  in  safety  on  the 
()]»i)osite  side,  where  they,  were  ultimately  discovered  by 
their  distressed  relatives,  who  had  believed  them  to  be 
lost  Such  was  the  battle  which  young  Applegate  had 
with  the  rocks,  that  the  flesh  was  torn  from  the  palms  of 
his  hands,  and  his  whole  body  bruised  and  lacerated. 

So  it  was  with  sorrow,  after  all,  that  the  immigrants 
arrived  in  the  valley.  Nor  were  their  trials  over  when 
tliey  had  arrived.  The  worst  feature  about  this  long  and 
cxhiHisting  journey  was,  that  it  could  not  be  accomplished, 
so  as  to  allow  time  for  recruiting  the  strength  of  the  trav- 
elers, and  providing  them  with  shelter  before  the  rainy 
season  set  in.  Either  the  new  arrivals  must  camp  out  in 
the  Aveather  until  a  log  house  was  thrown  up,  or  they 
must,  if  they  were  invited,  crowd  into  the  small  cabins 
of  the  settlers  until  there  was  scarce  standing  room,  and 
thus  live  for  months  in  an  atmosphere  which  would  have 
bred  pestilence  in  any  other  less  healthful  climate. 

Not  only  was  the  question  of  domiciles  a  trying  one, 
but  that  of  food  still  more  so.  Some,  who  had  families 
of  boys  to  help  in  the  rough  labor  of  building,  soon  be- 
came settled  in  houses  of  their  own,  more  or  less  com- 
fortable ;  nor  was  anything  very  commodious  required 
for  the  frontiers-men  from  Missouri ;  but  in  the  matter  of 
something  to  eat,  the  more  boys  there  were  in  the  family, 
the  more  hopeless  the  situation.  They  had  scarcely  man- 
aged to  bring  with  them  provisions  for  their  summer's 
journey — it  was  not  possible  to  bring  more.  In  the 
colony  was  food,  but  they  had  no  money — few  of  them 
had  much,  at  least ;  they  had  not  goods  to  exchange  ; 
labor  was  not  in  demand :    in  short,  the  first  winter  in 


.^1 


f-:    [  I 


w 


338 


THE    OKNKROUS   SAVAGE, 


Oregon  was,  to  nearly  all  the  new  colonists,  a  time  of 
trial,  if  not  of  actual  Huflbring.  Many  families  now  occu- 
pying positions  of  eminence  on  the  Pacific  coast,  knew 
what  it  was,  in  those  early  days,  to  feel  the  pangs  of 
hunger,  and  to  want  for  a  sufficient  covering  for  their 
nakedness. 

Two  anecdotes  of  this  kind  come  to  the  writer's  mem- 
ory, as  related  by  the  parties  themselves :  the  Indians, 
who  are  everywhere  a  begging  race,  were  in  the  habit  of 
visiting  the  houses  of  the  settlers  and  demanding  food. 
On  one  occasion,  one  of  them  came  to  the  house  of  a  now 
prominent  citizen  of  Oregon,  as  usual  petitioning  for  some- 
thing to  eat.  The  lady  of  the  house,  and  mother  of  sev- 
eral young  children,  replied  that  she  had  nothing  to  give. 
Not  liking  to  believe  her,  the  Indian  persisted  in  his  de- 
mand, when  the  lady  pointed  to  her  little  children  and 
said,  "Go  away;  I  have  nothing — not  even  for  those." 
The  savage  turned  on  his  heel  and  strode  quickly  away, 
as  the  lady  thought,  offended.  In  a  short  time  he  reap- 
peared with  a  sack  of  dried  venison,  which  he  laid  at  her 
feet.  "Take  that,"  he  said,  "and  give  the  tenas  tillkum 
(little  children)  something  to  eat."  From  that  day,  as 
long  as  he  lived,  that  humane  savage  was  a  "  friend  of  the 
family. 

The  other  anecdote  concerns  a  gentleman  who  was 
chief  justice  of  Oregon  under  the  provisional  govern- 
ment, afterwards  governor  of  California,  and  at  present  a 
banker  in  San  Francisco.  He  lived,  at  the  time  spoken 
of,  on  the  Tualatin  Plains,  and  was  a  neighbor  of  Joe 
Meek.  Not  having  a  house  to  go  into  at  first,  he  was  per- 
mitted to  settle  his  family  in  the  district  school-house, 
with  the  understanding  that  on  certain  days  of  the  month 
he  was  to  allow  religious  services  to  be  held  in  the  build- 
ing.    In  this  he  assented.     Meeting  day  came,  and  the 


THE    IlAIMC-FOOTKn    I   WVYER. 


339 


family  put  on  tlioir  best  a];)f)iirol  to  make  tliomsclvos  tidy 
ill  tho  eyes  of  th(;ir  noighbora     Only  one  (lilliculty  wiis 

hard  to  get  over  :   Mr.  had  oidy  one  shoe,  tlie  otlier 

foot  was  bare.  But  ho  considered  tho  matter  for  some 
time,  and  tlien  resolved  that  he  mij^dit  take  a  sheltered 
position  behind  the  teacher's  desk,  where  his  deficiency 
would  be  hidden,  and  when  the  house  lillt'd  up,  as  it 
would  do  very  rapidly,  he  could  not  be  expected  to  stir 
for  want  of  space.  However,  that  happened  to  the  ambi- 
tions young  lawyer  which  often  does  happen  to  the  "  best 
laid  schemes  of  mice  and  men" — his  went  "all  aglee." 
In  the  midst  of  the  services,  the  speaker  needed  a  cup  of 

water,  and  requested  Mr,     to  furnish  it.     Tlusre  was 

no  refusing  so  reasonable  a  request.  Out  before  all  the 
congregation,  walked  the  abashed  and  blushing  i)ioneer, 
with  his  ill-matched  feet  exposed  to  view.  This  mortify- 
ing exposure  was  not  without  an  agreeable  result ;  for 
next  day  he  received  a  present  of  a  pair  of  moccasins, 
and  was  enabled  thereafter  to  appear  with  feet  that  bore 
a  brotherly  resemblance  to  each  other. 

About  this  time,  the  same  gentleman,  who  was,  as  has 
been  said,  a  neighbor  of  Meck's,  was  going  to  Wallamet 
Falls  with  a  wagon,  and  Meek  was  going  along.  "Take 
something  to  eat,"  said  he  to  ^feek,  "  for  I  have  nothing;" 
and  Meek  promised  that  he  would. 

Accordingly  when  it  came  time  to  camp  for  the  night. 
Meek  Avas  requested  to  produce  his  lunch  basket.  Going 
to  the  wagon.  Meek  unfolded  an  immense  pumpkin,  and 
brought  it  to  the  fire. 

"What!"  exclaimed  Mr. ,  "is  that  all  we  have  for 

Slipper  ?" 

"  Roast  pumpkin  is  not  so  bad,"  said  Meek,  laughing 
back  at  him ;  "  I've  had  worse  fare  in  the  mountains. 
It's  buffalo  tongue  compared  to  ants  or  moccasin  soles." 


V. 


' 

*■      } 

- 

i 

mm 


340 


SHOPPING    UNDEK   DIFFICULTIES. 


And  Si.  with  much  merriment  they  proceeded  to  cut  up 
their  puriipk'"  and  roast  it,  linding  it  as  Meek  had  said— 
'^not  so  bad"  when  there  was  no  better. 

Those  anecdotes  illustrate  what  a  volume  could  only  do 
scribe — the  perils  and  privations  endured  by  the  colonists 
in  Oregon,  If  we  add  that  there  were  only  two  flouring 
mills  in  the  Walhimet  Valley,  and  these  two  not  conven- 
ient for  most  of  the  settlers,  both  belonging  to  the  mis- 
si(m,  and  that  to  get  a  few  bushels  of  wheat  ground  in- 
volved the  taking  of  a  journey  of  from  four  to  six  days, 
for  many,  and  that,  too,  over  half-broken  roads,  destitute 
of  bridges,  it  will  be  seen  how  difficult  it  was  to  obtain 
the  commonest  comforts  of  life.  As  for  such  luxuries  as 
groceries  and  clothing,  they  had  to  wait  for  better  times. 
Lucky  was  the  man  who,  "by  hook  or  by  crook,"  got 
hold  of  an  order  on  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  the 
Methodist  Mission,  or  the  Milling  Company  at  the  Falls. 
Were  he  thus  fortunate,  he  had  much  ado  to  dende  how 
to  make  it  go  farthest,  and  obtain  the  most  Not  far 
would  it  go,  at  the  best,  for  fifty  per  cent,  profit  on  all 
sales  was  what  was  demanded  and  obtained.  Perhaps  the 
holder  of  a  ten  dollar  draft  made  out  his  list  of  ne(;essa- 
ries,  and  presented  himself  at  the  store,  expecting  to  get 
them.  He  wanted  some  unbleached  cotton,  to  be  dyed  to 
make  dresses  for  the  children  ;  he  would  buy  a  pair  of 
calf-skin  shoes  if  he  could  afford  them ;  and — yes — he 
would  indulge  in  the  luxury  of  a  little — a  very  little— 
su?:ar,  just  for  that  once  ! 

Arrived  at  the  store  after  a  long,  jolting  journey,  in 
the  farm  wagon  which  had  crossed  the  continent  the  year 
before,  he  makes  his  inquiries :  "Cotton  goods?"  "No; 
just  out."  "Shoes?"  "Got  one  pair,  rather  small— 
wouldn't  fit  you."  "  What  have  you  got  in  the  way  of 
goods  ?"     "  Got  a  lot  of  .«ilk  handkerchiefs  and  twelve 


^iwfif':^; 


EDUCATION    AND    LITERARY    SOCIETIES. 


341 


dozen  straw  lials."  "  Any  pins  ?"  "No;  a  few  knittinf^ 
mrdlos/'  "Any  yarn?"  "Yes,  there's  a  pretty  good 
lot  of  yarn  ,  but  don't  yon  want  some  sugar?  the  last 
ship  tliat  was  in  left  a  ^-lantity  of  sugar."  So  the  holder 
of  the  draft  exchanges  it  for  some  yarn  and  a  few  nails, 
and  takes  the  balance  in  sugar .  fairly  conii)elled  to  be 
luxuiious  in  one  article,  for  the  reason  that  others  were 
not  to  be  had  till  some  other  ship  came  in. 

No  mails  reached  the  colony,  and  no  letters  left  it,  ex- 
cept such  as  were  carried  by  private  hand,  or  were  sent 
once  a  year  in  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  express  to 
Canada,  and  thence  to  the  States.  Newspapers  arrived 
in  the  same  manner,  or  by  vessel  from  the  Sandwich 
Inlands.  Notwithstanding  all  these  drawbacks,  education 
was  encouraged  even  from  the  very  beginning  ;  a  library 
was  started,  and  literary  societies  formed,  and  this  all  the 
iiioro.  perhaps,  that  the  colony  was  so  isolated  and  depend- 
ent on  itself  for  intellectual  pleasures.  Such  was  the  state 
of  the  colony  when  the  Indian  Agent  returned  from  the 
upper  country,  when  the  Provisional  Government  was 
foniK'd,  and  when  the  emigration  arrived  at  the  close  of 
1H43. 

The  spring  of  1844  saw  the  colony  in  a  state  of  some  ex- 
eI;oment  on  account  of  an  attempt  to  introduce  the  manu- 
facture of  ardent  spirits.  This  dangerous  article  had  al- 
ways been  carefully  excluded  from  the  country,  first  by 
die  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  and  secondly  by  the  Meth- 
odist Mission  ;  and  since  the  time  when  Ewing  Young 
had  bi'en  induced  to  relinquish  its  manufacture,  no  seri- 
ous oifort  had  been  made  to  introduce  it. 

It  does  not  appear  from  the  Oregon  archives,  that  any 
law  against  its  manufacture  existed  at  that  time  :  it  had 
pn.bably  been  overlooked  in  the  proceedings  of  the  leg- 
islative committee  of  the  previous  summer ;  neither  waa 


342 


A    (iUEAT    CALAMITV    TIIUEATENED. 


there  yd  any  executive  liead  to  the  Provisional  Govern- 
ment, the  election  not  having  taken  jjlace.  In  this  di- 
lemma the  pe(jple  found  themselves  in  the  month  of  Ful> 
ruary,  when  one  James  Conner  had  been  discovered  to  be 
erecting  a  distillery  at  the  Falls  of  the  Wallamot. 

Now  when  Dr.  White  had  so  speedily  returned  from 
the  States,  whither  he  had  as  speedily  gone,  after  a  few 
months  residence  in  Oregon,  and  a  quarrel  with  the  mis- 
sion to  which  he  was  surgeon — with  a  commission  from 
the  United  States  wliich  he  Avished  to  coust'''ie  as  confer- 
ring on  him  the  authority  of  governor  of  <"  olony,  his 
pretentions  were  regarded  as  insuiferable,  and  he  was 
given  to  understand  that  he  would  do  well  to  confine  him- 
self to  his  duties  as  Indian  agent.  There  was  a  great  deal 
that  was  absurd  about  the  whole  matter,  and  the  United 
States  had  as  little  right  to  appoint  an  Indian  agent  as  a 
governor — neither  being  consistent  with  the  terms  of  the 
treaty  of  joint  occupation.  But  it  was  not  that  question 
which  the  settlers  regarded ;  t.hey  were  willing  enough  to 
acknowledge  the  authority  of  the  United  States  to  do 
anything ;  and  were  constantly  petitioning  the  govern- 
ment to  do  those  things  which  threatened  to  involve  the 
country  in  war;  in  which  case  they  would  doubtless  have 
been  immediately  exterminated ;  for  it  only  required  a 
hint  to  the  Indians  that  the  "  King  George  men  "  and  the 
"Bostons"  were  at  war,  to  bring  them  down  upon  the 
settlers  in  one  fell  swoop. 

What  the  colonists,  and  especially  the  mission,  did  not 
like  abcnit  the  matter,  was  Dr.  White  hiuvAvlf  They 
would  have  })een  glad  enough  to  have  hnd  a  governor  ap- 
pointed ;  bu'.  there  were  other  wkhv  in  and  out  of  the 
mission,  more  pleasing  to  them  tKaw  the  Doctor  for  gov- 
ernor ;  and  perhaps  the  movst  pUMkx»^g  man  of  all  to  each 
one,  was  himself     But  a^*  they  v>>uKl  not  all  be  govern 


A    DILEMMA — MEEK    DEST1UJY8    TlIK    DISTILLEHY. 


343 


ors,  it  \v;is  decided  at  the  meeting  iii  tiie  previous  July 
thai  ii  Iriiiity  of  governors  would  answer  their  purpose, 
1111(1  divide  the  honors. 

It  happened,  however,  that  an  occasion  for  the  exer- 
cise of  executive  power  liad  occurred  before  the  election 
of  ilie  executive  committee,  and  now  what  was  to  be 
tlidiey  It  was  a  case  too,  which  required  absolute  power, 
for  tluM-e  was  no  law  on  the  subject  of  distilleries.  After 
Niiiu;  deliberation  it  was  decided  to  allow  the  Indian  agent 
temporary  power,  and  several  letters  were  addressed  to 
liiiii,  informing  him  of  the  calamity  which  threatened  the 
c'Oiiiinunity  at  the  Falls.  "  Now,  wo  believe  that  if  there 
is  anything  which  calls  your  attention  in  your  oHif^ial  ca- 
pacity, or  anything  in  which  you  would  be  most  cordially 
supported  by  the  good  sense  and  prompt  action  of  the 
better  part  of  community,  it  is  the  present  case.  We  do 
not  wish  to  dictate,  but  we  hope  for  the  best,  begging 
pardon  for  intrusions."  So  read  the  closing  paragraph 
of  one  of  the  letters. 

Perhaps  this  humble  petition  touched  the  Doctor's  he<a*t ; 
perhaps  he  saw  in  the  circumstance  a  possible  means  of 
acijiiiring  influence;  at  all  events  he  hastened  to  the  Falls, 
a  distance  of  fifty  miles,  and  entered  at  once  upon  the  dis- 
charge of  the  executive  duties  thus  thrust  upon  hira  in. 
the  hour  of  danger.  Calling  upon  Meek,  who  had  entered 
upon  his  duties  as  sheriflF  the  previous  summer,  he  gave 
him  his  orders.  Writ  in  hand,  Meek  proceeded  to  the 
distillery,  frightened  the  poor  sinner  into  quiet  submission 
with  a  display  of  nis  mountain  manners ;  madie  a  bugle  of 
the  worm,  and  blew  it,  to  announce  to  the  Doctor  his  cora- 
piote  success ;  after  which  he  tumVded  the  distillery  appa- 
ratus into  the  river,  and  retired.  Connor  was  put  under 
throe  hundred  dollar  bonds,  and  so  the  case  ended 

But  there  were  other  occasions  on  which  the  Doctor's 


'"-'"  -"''•^-  '       '■''''•rW^i 


344   ANECDOTE  OF  DR.  WHITE  AND  MADAM  COOPER. 


autliority  was  put  in  roqnisition.  It  happened  that  a  ves- 
sel i'roin  Australia  had  been  in  the  river,  and  left  one  Mad 
am  Cooper,  who  was  said  to  have  brought  w4th  her  a  bar- 
rel of  whisky.  Her  cabin  stood  on  the  east  bank  of  the 
Wallamct,  opposite  the  present  city  ot  Portland.  Nut 
thinking  it  necessary  to  send  the  sheriiF  to  deal  with  a 
woman,  the  Doctor  went  in  person,  accompanied  by  a 
couple  of  men.  Entering  the  cabin  the  Doctor  remarked 
blandly,  "  you  have  a  barrel  of  whisky,  I  believe." 

Not  knowing  but  her  visitor's  intention  was  to  purchase, 
and  not  having  previously  resided  in  a  strictly  temperance 
community,  Madam  Cooper  replica .  frankly  that  she  had, 
and  pointed  to  the  barrel  in  question. 

The  Doctor  then  stepped  forward,  and  placing  his  foot 
on  it,  said-  "In  the  name  of  the  United  States,  I  levy 
execution  on  it!" 

At  this  unexpected  declaration,  the  English  woman 
stared  wildly  one  moment,  then  recovering  herself  quickly, 
seized  the  poker  from  the  chimney  corner,  and  raising  it 
over  the  Doctor's  head,  exclaimed — ''In  the  name  of 
Great  Britain,  Ireland,  and  Scotland,  I  levy  execution  on 
you!" 

But  when  the  stick  descended,  the  Doctor  was  not  there. 
He  had  backed  out  at  the  cabin  door ;  nor  did  he  after- 
wards attempt  to  interfere  with  a  subject  of  the  crown  of 
Great  Britain 

On  the  following  day,  hov/ever,  the  story  having  got 
afloat  at  the  Falls,  Meek  and  a  young  man  highly  esteem- 
ed at  the  mission,  by  the  name  of  Le  Breton,  set  out  to 
pay  their  respects  to  Madam  Cooper.  Upon  entering  the 
cabin,  the  two  callers  cast  their  eyes  about  until  they 
rested  on  the  whiskv  barrel. 

''Have  you  come  to  levy  on  my  whisky?"  inquired  the 
now  suspicious  Madam. 


PER. 


A    LEVI'    ON    WIIIBKY. 


345 


that  a  vos- 
ft  one  Mad- 
her  a  bar- 
tuik  of  the 
land.  Nut 
loiil  with  a 
mied  by  a 
:'  remarked 
ve." 

3  purchase, 
lemperance 
at  she  hud, 

ng  his  foot 
:es,  I  levy 

,  - . .  i 

ish  woman 
ill  quickly, 
1.  raising  it 
;  name  of 
:ecutiou  on 

s  not  tfiere. 
id  he  after- 
[3  crown  01 

laving  got 
ily  esteem- 
,  set  out  to 
titering  the 
until  they 


"Yes,"  said  Meek,  "I  have  come  to  levy  on  it;  Init  as 
I  am  not  quite  so  high  in  authority  as  Doctor  White,  I 
(Idii't  intend  to  levy  on  the  whole  of  it  at  once.  I  think 
ahout  a  (piart  ox  it  will  do  me." 

Comprehending  by  the  twinkle  in  Meek's  eye  that  she 
had  now  a  customer  more  to  her  mind,  Madam  Coo})er 
made  haste  to  set  before  her  visitors  a  bottle  and  tin  cup, 
upon  which  invitation  they  proceded  to  levy  frequently 
upon  the  contents  of  the  bottle ;  and  we  fear  that  the 
icni^th  of  time  spent  there,  and  the  amount  of  whisky 
(hank  must  have  strongly  reminded  Meek  of  past  rendez- 
vous times  in  the  mountains  ;  nor  can  we  doubt  that  he 
entei'tained  Le  Breton  and  Madam  Cooper  with  many  rem- 
iniscences of  those  times.  However  that  may  be,  this 
\vas  not  the  last  visit  of  Meek  to  Madam  Cooper's,  nor  his 
last  levy  on  her  whisky. 

The  sheriff,  despite  his  natural  antagonism  to  what  is 
usually  denominated  the  better  portion  cf  the  community," 
or  putting  it  more  correctly,  despite  their  antagonism  to 
h'm,  on  account  of  his  mountain  ways  and  Indian  vfife, 
was  becoming  a  man  of  note  amongst  them.  They  might 
ilenominate  him  amongst  themselves  as  "  old  Joe  Meek  " 
at  thirty-four  years  of  age,  because  he  cared  nothing  what- 
ever for  their  pious  prejudices,  and  broke  througii  their 
s)kMnn  prohibitions  as  if  they  had  been  ropes  of  sand ; 
ct  when  courage  and  firmness  were  required  to  get  them 
mt  of  a  difficulty,  they  appealed  deferentially  enough  to 
Mr.  Meek." 

Shortly  after  his  election  as  sheriff  he  had  been  called 
pen  to  serve  a  writ  upon  a  desperate  character,  for  an 
tttempt  to  kill.  Many  persons,  hoAvever,  fearing  the  re- 
sult of  trying  to  enforce  the  law  upon  desperadoes,  in  the 
llieo  defenceless  condition  of  the  <x>lony,  advised  him  to 
wait  for  the  imiuigration  to  come  in  beforo  attempting  the 


»>■'  !' 


34G 


FIRST    OFFICIAL   ACT    OF    THE   SHRRIFF. 


arrest.  But  Meek  preferred  to  do  his  duty  then,  and  wont 
■with  the  writ  to  arrest  him.  The  man  resisted,  iiiakinrr 
an  attack  on  the  sherifll'  witli  a  carpenter's  axe ;  but  Aleok 
coolly  presented  a  pistol,  assuring  the  culprit  of  the  use- 
lessness  of  such  demonstrations,  and  soon  brought  him  to 
terms  of  compliance.  Such  coolness,  united  with  a  fine 
physi(pio,  and  a  mountain-man's  reputation  for  recklo<^ 
courage,  made  it  very  desira])le  that  Meek  should  con- 
tinue to  hold  the  office  of  sherill  during  that  stage  of  the 
colony's  development. 


EXCITEMENT   AMONG   THE    SETTLERS. 


347 


CHAPTER    XXVIII. 


J!' 


1844.  As  has  before  been  mentioned,  the  Indians  of 
the  Wallamct  valley  were  by  no  means  so  formidaljle  as 
those  of  the  npper  country :  vet  considering  tlioir  nuni- 
hers  and  the  condition  of  tho  settlers,  they  were  quite  for- 
midable enough  to  occasion  considerable  alarm  when  any 
one  of  them,  or  any  nurube c  '>r  them  betrayed  the  savage 
]i;i-sions  by  which  they  were  tein])orarily  overcome.  Con- 
jiJerable  excitement  had  prevailed  among  the  more  scat- 
tered settlers,  ever  since  the  reports  of  the  disaffection 
among  the  up-country  tribes  had  reached  them ;  and  Dr. 
Will'  id  been  importuned  to  throw  up  a  strong  fortifi- 
catioh  111  the  most  central  part  of  the  colony,  and  to  pio- 
eure  arms  for  their  defence,  at  the  expense  of  the  United 
States. 

This  excitement  had  somewhat  subsided  when  an  event 
occurred  which  for  a  time  renewed  it:  a  house  was  plun- 
dered and  some  horses  stolen  from  the  neighborhood  of 
the  Falls.  An  Indian  from  the  Dalles,  named  Cockstock^ 
was  at  the  bottom  of  the  mischief,  and  had  been  commit- 
ting or  instigating  others  to  commit  depredations  upon  the 
settlers,  for  a  year  previous,  because  he  had  been,  as  he 
fancied,  badly  treated  in  a  matter  between  himself  and  a 
negro  in  the  colony,  in  which  the  latter  had  ■  aken  an  un- 
fair advantage  of  him  in  a  Vjargain. 

To  crown  his  injuries  Dr.  White  had  caused  a  relative 
of  his  to  be  flogged  by  the  Dalles  chief,  for  entering  the 


III 


348 


INDIAN    REVENGE RAID    OF    THE    KLAMATH8. 


house  of  the  Methodist  missionary  at  that  place,  and  tyinc 
liiiii,  with  the  purpose  of  flogging  him.  (It  was  a  poor 
hiw,  he  thought,  that  would  not  work  both  ways.) 

In  revenge  for  this  insult  Cockstock  came  to  the  Doc- 
tor's house  in  the  Wallaniet,  threatening  to  shoot  him  al 
sight,  but  not  linding  him  at  home,  contented  himself 
for  that  time,  by  smashing  all  the  windows  in  the  dwell- 
ing and  ofllce  of  the  Doctor,  and  nearly  liightening  to 
death  a  young  man  on  the  premises. 

When  on  the  Doctor's  return  in  the  evening,  the  extent 
of  the  outrage  became  known,  a  party  set  out  in  pursuit 
of  Cockstock  and  his  band,  but  Allied  to  overtake  thcni, 
and  the  settlers  remained  in  ignorance  concerning  the 
identity  of  the  marauders.  About  a  month  later,  how- 
ever, a  party  of  Klamath  and  Molalla  Indians  from  the 
south  of  Oregon,  numbering  fifteen,  came  riding  into  the 
settlement,  armed  and  painted  in  true  Indian  war-style, 
They  made  their  way  to  the  lodge  of  a  Calapooya  chief 
in  the  neighborhood — the  Calapooyas  being  the  Indians 
native  to  the  valley.  Dr.  White  fearing  these  mischiev- 
ous visitors  might  infect  the  mind  of  the  Calapooya  chief, 
stmt  a  message  to  him,  to  bring  his  friends  to  call  upon 
him  in  the  morning,  as  he  had  something  good  to  say  to 
them. 

This  they  did,  when  Dr.  White  explained  the  laws  of  the 
Nez  Perces  1  »  them,  and  loki  them  how  much  it  would  he 
to  their  advn  tage  to  adopt  such  laws.  He  gave  the  Cal- 
apooya chief  a  tine  fat  ox  to  feast  his  friends  with,  well 
knowing  that  an  Indian's  humor  depends  much  on  the 
state  of  his  stonnich,  whether  shrunken  or  distended.  Af 
ter  the  feast  there  was  some  more  talk  about  the  laws,  in 
the  midst  of  which  the  Indian  Cockstock  made  his  appear 
ance,  armed,  and  sullen  in  his  demeanor.  But  as  Dr. 
White  did  not  know  him  for  the  perpetrator  of  the  out- 


MASSACHK    OF    UNDIAXS. 


U9 


ni^'c  on  his  preinisos,  he  took  no  notice  of  him  more  tlian 
of  ihe  otlu'i's.  The  Mohillas  and  Khuuuths  finally  a;j;rc(Hl  to 
receive  the  laws;  departing  in  high  good  hnmor,  singing 
1111(1  shouting.     So   little    may  one   know   of  the  navage 


liiMit  Irdin  the  savage  professions!  Some  of  these  In- 
(liiius  were  boiling  over  with  secret  wrath  at  the  weakness 
of  ilicir  brethren  in  consenting  to  laws  of  the  Agent's  dic- 
liitidii;  and  while  they  were  crossing  a  stream,  fell  upon 
and  iTiassacrcd  them  without  mercy,  Cockstock  taking  an 
active  part  in  the  murder. 

The  whites  were  naturally  much  excited  by  the  villianous 
and  horrible  affray,  and  were  for  taking  and  hanging  the 
iiiunlorers.  The  Agent,  however,  was  more  cautious,  and 
learning  that  there  had  been  feuds  among  these  Indians 
long  unsettled,  decided  not  to  interfere. 

Ill  February,  1844,  fresh  outrages  on  settlers  having 
been  committed  so  that  some  were  leaving  their  claims 
and  coming  to  stop  at  the  Falls  through  fear.  Dr.  White 
was  petitioned  to  take  the  case  in  hand.  He  accordingly 
raised  a  party  of  ten  men,  who  had  nearly  all  suffered 
some  loss  or  outrage  at  Cockstor-liV  hands,  and  set  out  in 
search  of  him,  but  did  not  succeed  in  finding  him.  His 
next  step  was  to  offer  a  reward  of  a  hundred  dollars  for 
his  arrest,  meaning  to  send  hira  to  the  upper  country  to 
be  tried  and  punished  by  the  Cayuse'3  and  Nez  Perces,  the 
Doctor  prudently  desiring  to  have  them  bear  the  odium, 
and  suffer  the  punishment,  should  any  follow,  of  executing 
justice  on  the  Indian  desperado.  Not  so  had  the  fates  or- 
dained. 

About  a  week  after  the  reward  was  offered,  Cockstock 
came  riding  into  the  settlement  at  the  Falls,  at  mid-day, 
accompanied  by  five  other  Indians,  all  well  armed,  and 
fright  fully  painted.  Going  from  house  to  house  on  their 
horses,  they  exhibited  their  pistols,  and  by  look  and  ges- 


2-  S- 


350       AFI'UAY    AT    THE    FALLS — DEATH    OF    COCKSTOCK. 


tiii'o  socmod  to  defy  the  settlers,  who,  however,  kept  quiol 
througli  ])rii(lenti{il  motives.  Not  siiecoediiig  in  provok- 
ing' th(!  wliilcs  to  commoncc  the  fray,  Cockstock  finally  re- 
tired to  an  Indian  villa^a*  on  the  other  side  of  the  river 
where  he  labored  to  get  np  an  insnrrection,  and  procure 
the  burning  of  the  settlement  houses. 

Meantime  the  people  at  the  Falls  were  thoroughly 
alai'm(;d,  and  bent  u\)()n  the  capture  of  this  desperate  sav- 
age. When,  after  an  absence  of  a  few  hours,  they  saw 
him  reerossing  the  river  with  his  party,  a  crowd  of  per- 
sons ran  down  to  the  landing,  some  with  oflers  of  large 
reward  to  any  person  who  would  attempt  to  take  him, 
while  others,  more  courageous,  were  determined  upon 
earning  it.  No  definite  plan  of  capture  or  concert  of  ac- 
tion was  decided  on,  but  all  was  confusion  and  doubt.  In 
this  frame  of  mind  a  collision  was  sure  to  take  place ;  both 
the  whites  and  Indians  firing  at  the  moment  of  landing. 
Mr.  LeBreton,  the  young  man  mentioned  in  the  previous 
chapter,  after  firing  ineffectually,  rushed  unarmed  upon 
Cockstock,  whose  pistol  was  also  empty,  but  who  still  had 
his  knife.  In  the  struggle  both  fell  to  the  ground,  when 
a  mulatio  man,  who  had  wrongs  of  his  own  to  avenge,  ran 
up  and  struck  Cockstock  a  blow  on  the  head  with  the  butt 
of  his  gun  which  dispatched  him  at  once. 

Thus  the  colony  was  rid  of  a  scourge,  yet  not  without 
lo.ss  which  counterbalanced  the  gain.  Young  LeBreton 
besides  having  his  arm  shattered  by  a  ball,  was  wounded 
by  a  poisoned  arrow,  which  occasioned  his  death;  and 
Mr.  Rogers,  another  esteemed  citizen,  died  »from  the  same 
cause ;  while  a  third  was  seriously  injured  by  a  slight 
wound  from  a  poisoned  arrow.  As  for  the  five  friends  of 
C"»ckstock,  they  escaped  to  the  bluffs  overlooking  the  set- 
tlement, and  commenced  firing  down  upon  the  people. 
But  fire-arms  were  mustered  sufficient  to  dislodge  them, 


HKTTLKMKXT    OK    TlIK    IUFFICIUMV. 


3.n 


and  thus  tho  alTair  (Midori;  oxcopt  that  tho  Ap^ont  had 
smiio  trouble  to  sotlle  it  with  tlic  Dalles  Indijins.  who  carno 
,l(,\vii  in-a  body  to  demand  payment  for  the  h).s8  of  their 
Kidtlicr.  After  mueh  talk  and  ex})lanation,  a  ])resent  to 
the  widow  of  the  dead  Indian  was  made  to  smooth  over 
the  (lillieulty. 

Meek,  who  at  i\w  time  of  tho  eollision  was  raftint]^  tim- 
ber for  Dr.  AfeLaughlin's  mill  at  the  Falls,  as  might  have 
been  expected  was  appealed  to  in  the  melee  by  eitizens 
wiu)  knew  less  about  Indian  fighting. 

A  ])rominent  citizen  and  merchant,  who  probably  sel- 
dom spoke  of  him  as  Mr.  Meek,  came  running  to  him  in 
irrcat  alTright:— "Mr.  Meek!  Mr.  Meek!  Mr.  Meek!— I 
want  to  send  my  wife  down  to  Vancouver.  Can  you  as- 
sist me?     Do  you  think  the  Indians  will  take  tho  town?" 

"It  '])ears  like  half-a-dozen  Injuns  might  do  it,"  retorted 
Me  'k,  going  on  with  his  Avoik. 

''What  do  you  think  we  had  better  do,  Mr.  Meek? — 
What  do  you  advise  ?" 

"I  think  yoii'd  better  run." 

In  all  dilTicuIties  between  the  Indians  and  settlers.  Meek 
usually  refrained  from  taking  sides — especially  from  taking 
sides  against  the  Indians.  For  Indian  slayer  as  he  had 
once  been  when  a  ranger  of  the  mountains,  he  had  too 
much  compassion  for  the  poor  wretches  in  the  Wallamet 
'  ,i'!  y,  as  well  as  too  much  knowledge  of  the  savage  na- 
ture, 'o  like  to  make  unnecessary  war  upon  them.  Had 
'lo  I'cen  sent  to  take  Cockstock,  very  probably  he  would 
have  done  it  with  little  uproar ;  for  he  had  sufficient  influ- 
ence among  the  Calapooyas  to  have  enlisted  them  in  the 
undertaking.  But  this  was  the  Agent's  business  and  he 
let  him  manage  it ;  for  Meek  and  the  Doctor  were  not  in 
love  with  one  another ;  one  was  solemnly  audacious,  the 
other  mischievously  so.  Of  the  latter  sort  of  audacity, 
23 


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O^ 


352 


SOLEMN    AUDACITY AMBITIOUS   DESIGNS. 


here  is  an  example.  Meek  wanted  a  liorse  to  ride  out  to 
the  Plains  where  his  family  were,  and  not  knowing  how 
else  to  obtain  it,  helped  himself  to  one  belonging  to  Dr. 
White ;  which  presumption  greatly  incensed  the  Doctor, 
and  caused  him  to  threaten  vrrious  punishments,  hanging 
among  the  rest.     But  the  Indians  overhearing  him  replied 

"  Wake  71  ilea  caintux — You  dare  not. — You  no  put  rope 
round  Meek's  neck.     lie  tyee  (chief) — no  hang  him." 

Upon  which  the  Doctor  thought  better  of  it,  and  having 
vented  his  solemn  audacity,  received  smiling  audacity  with 
apparent  good  humor  when  he  came  to  restore  the  bor- 
rowed horse.  --  0  /itrifp*..!; 

While  Indian  affairs  occupied  so  much  of  the  attention 
of  the  colony,  other  topics  of  interest  were  not  overlooked, 
and  colonial  politics  were  as  jealously  guarded  as  ever  by 
the  American  party.  The  unique  form  of  government  hit 
upon  by  the  genius  of  the  American  people,  which  con- 
sisted of  a  legislative  committe  who  might  frame  laws  for 
the  people  to  vote  upon  at  the  ensuing  election,  and  an 
executive  committee,  equally  under  the  control  of  the  peo- 
ple, promised  to  prove  a  success  However,  that  passion 
by  which  "  the  angels  fell,"  did  not  sleep  in  Oregon  more 
than  in  other  portions  of  the  globe,  and  there  were  those 
in  the  legislative  committee  for  1844,  and  in  the  executive 
committee  also,  who  were  revolving  in  their  minds  the  ques- 
tion of  an  independent  government ;  that  is,  a  govemmeut 
owning  no  allegiance  either  to  the  United  States  or  Great 
Britain,  but  which  should  lay  the  foundations  of  empire  ou 
the  Pacific  coast. 

The  first  message  of  the  executive  committee  recom- 
mended the  vesting  of  the  executive  power  in  a  single 
individual,  the  appointment  of  several  judges,  and  d  gen- 
eral amendment  of  the  organization  with  a  view  to  increas- 
ing its  strength.  It  was  also  decided  this  year  to  increase 
the  legislative  committee,  so  that  it  should  number  no  less 


^^r 


%'t 


NEGFiOES   AND    LIQUOR   INTEUDICTBD. 


353 


than  tliii'tcon,  nor  more  than  sixty  members.  An  assessor 
was  appointed  as  a  preliminary  measure  to  imposing  taxes: 
an  act  passed  to  exclude  slavery  from  Oregon,  and  also  an 
act  to  prevent  the  manufacture  or  sale  of  intoxicating 
drinks.  On  the  two  latter  acts  the  people  were  generally 
very  well  agreed,  seeing  that  temperance  was  necessary  to 
the  preservation  of  the  colony;  and  the  majority  favoring 
the  exclusion  of  negroes  from  Oregon.  That  there  should 
have  been  so  general  a  sentiment  against  the  introduction 
of  blacks  seems  rather  remarkable,  when  it  is  remembered 
that  a  large  proportion  of  the  settlers  were  from  the  bor- 
der slave  states.  Perhaps,  having  experienced  the  disad- 
vantages of  being  "  poor  whites  "  in  a  slave-holding  com- 
munity, and  being  without  the  means  of  procuring  slaves, 
they  resolved  to  prevent  any  future  influx  of  slave-holders, 
who  should  reduce  them  to  the  condition  of  "poor  whites" 
in  the  country  of  their  adoption.  So  fearful  were  they 
that  the  negro  element  might  be  introduced  into  their  so- 
cial and  political  affairs  that  it  was  made  an  offence  even 
for  a  free  negro  to  be  found  in  the  territory,  for  which  of- 
fence he  was  ordered  to  be  sold  to  the  lowest  bidder,  who 
was  obligated  to  send  the  unfortunate  black  out  of  the 
territory,  as  soon  as  he  had  paid  himself  for  the  expense 
of  doing  so,  out  of  his  services.  ■  •  •  -  -    ^  — 

But  on  the  matter  of  taxes  the  people  were  not  so  well 
ap^reed,  the  general  determination  being,  however,  to  pay 
the  expenses  of  the  government  only  by  subscription,  as 
agreed  to  by  a  vote  of  the  people  the  previous  year. 

Tlic  American  settlers  were  averse  to  being  taxed  for 
the  support  of  a  government  which  might  become  a  bur- 
den to  them  in  this  way;  and  the  most  politic  of  the  poli- 
ticians in  the  American  party  feared  that  by  taxing  the 
people  they  should  alarm  the  Canadians,  whom  they  had 
again  invited  to  join  the  organization.     As  there  were  dis- 


4 


t-  -!,l 


354 


DEFEAT    OF    THE   INDEl'ENDEX'l    PAUTY. 


I'S 


son  tors  among  the  voters,  there  were  also  two  parties  in 
the  legislature  on  this  subject. 

However,  an  issue  was  started  this  year  in  the  legisla- 
ture, which  governed  the  election  of  the  next  year's  legis- 
lature. Its  purpose  was  pretty  clearly  shadowed  forth  in 
the  following  paragraph  from  the  message  of  the  executive 
committee : 

"And  we  sincerely  hope  that  Oregon,  by  the  special  aid  of  Divine  Providence, 
may  set  an  unprecedented  example  to  the  world,  of  industry,  morality,  and  vir- 
tue. And,  although  we  may  now  be  unknown  as  a  state  or  power,  yet  we  have 
the  advantages  by  united  efforts  of  our  increasing  population,  in  a  diligent 
attention  to  agriculture,  arts,  and  literature,  of  attaining,  at  no  distant  day,  to 
as  conspicuous  an  elevation  as  any  state  or  power  on  the  continent  of  America." 

This  feeler  put  forth  by  the  executive  committee,  one  of 
whom  was  the  candidate  for  Governor,  of  the  Independ- 
ent party,  while  it  struck  a  responsive  chord  in  the  hearts 
of  a  portion  of  the  legislative  committee,  had  the  effect  to 
alarm  the  patriotism  of  the  loyal  American ;  an  alarm 
which  spread,  and  which  expressed  itself  in  the  choice  of 
the  legislature  of  1845,  as  well  as  in  the  choice  of  a  gov- 
ernor, defeating  entirely  the  hopes  and  designs  of  ihe 
would-be  founders  of  an  Independent  Government. 

■ •.■•^■;'iJ'  ■'  ;?}•,.■ 


I! 


? 


THE   OIIEGON   CITY  LAND-CLAIM. 


355 


CHAPTER    XXIX. 


1842-4.  In  all  the  movements  which  had  been  made  by 
either  party  in  Oregon  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  had  not 
been  lost  sight  of.  Each  one  had  something  to  gain  or  lose 
by  the  approval  or  disapproval  of  that  company.  A  few 
individuals,  however,  belonging  to  the  mission,  under  the 
pretence  of  taking  care  of  the  rights  of  American  citizens, 
made  continual  war  on  Dr.  McLaughlin  as  the  represent- 
ative of  the  Company,  and  scrupled  not  to  set  his  rights 
at  defiance. 

The  Rev.  Father  Waller,  who  had  in  1840  obtained  the 
Doctor's  permission  to  build  a  mission  school  and  store- 
house on  the  land  claimed  by  him  since  1830,  found  so 
many  points  of  merit  in  the  situation  of  the  land  that  he 
resolved  to  set  up  a  counter  claim,  and  hold  it  by  posses- 
sion. The  first  intimation  that  the  Doctor  had  of  such  an 
intention  was  in  1842,  when  a  rumor  of  that  kind  was 
afloat.  On  inquiring  of  the  superintendent  of  the  mission 
concerning  the  truth  of  the  matter,  he  was  told  that  Mr. 
Waller  denied  setting  up  any  claim  to  the  land.  Yet  whe;i 
the  Doctor,  a  few  days  later  wished  to  give  a  lot  to  a  set- 
tler, Mr.  Waller  would  not  allow  it  to  be  given  away,  say- 
ing he  was  "  very  much  obliged  to  Dr.  McLaughlin  for 
disposing  of  his  property."  Then  commenced  a  tedious 
and  irritating  struggle  with  the  Reverend  claim-jumper. 
On  appealing  to  the  superintendent  a  second  time  the 
Doctor  was  informed  that  Mr.  Lee  had  "  understood  Mr. 


0       I 


-;fl 


356 


ATTEMPTS   AT    A   SETTLKMENT. 


Waller  to  say  that  he  had  set  up  no  claim  in  opposition  to 
the  Doctor's,  but  that  if  the  Doctor's  claim  i'ailed,  and  the 
mission  did  not  put  in  a  claim,  he  (Waller)  considered  that 
^  he  had  a  better  right  than  any  other  man,  and  should 
•  secure  the  title  if  he  could."  It  was  evident  from  this 
admission  that  Mr.  Waller  expected  that  the  mission  would 
put  in  a  claim,  failing  to  do  which  he  should  do  so  for 
himself. 

Again,  Mr.  Lee  informed  the  Doctor  that  "  a  citizen  of 
the  United  States,  by  becoming  a  missionary,  did  not  re- 
nounce any  civil  or  political  rights,"  therefore  he  could 
not  control  his  associates  in  such  matters.  Upon  which 
information.  Dr.  McLaughlin  called  upon  Mr,  Waller  in 
order  to  seek  an  adjustment  of  the  difficulty.  In  the  in- 
terview which  followed,  Mr.  Waller  again  by  implication 
denied  his  intention  to  wrong  the  Doctor,  and  agreed 
that  if  he  were  allowed  to  retain  possession  of  that  portion 
of  the  Doctor's  land  which  he  had  cleared  and  improved, 
he  would  give  in  exchange  for  it  an  equal  amount  of  land 
out  of  his  claim  which  adjoined  the  Doctor's.  To  this  Dr. 
McLaughlin  consented,  and  sent  a  man  to  survey  and  meas- 
ure the  lots  which  Mr.  Waller  had  improved,  or  given 
away  to  his  friends,  in  order  to  mark  out  an  equal  portion 
for  himself  on  that  portion  of  Waller's  claim  adjoining 
his.  But  no  sooner  had  he  done  this  than  Mr.  Waller  "- 
clared  that  he  would  not  consent  to  the  arrangement,  say- 
ing, "  keep  you  yours,  I  will  keep  mine ;"  a  mode  of 
settlement  most  agreeable  to  the  Doctor,  only  that  while 
Mr.  Waller  kept  his  own,  he  kept  the  Doctor's  also. 

A  few  months  later  there  came  to  the  Falls  a  lawyer,  who 
was  on  his  way  to  the  Sandwich  Islands,  a  Mr.  llicord. 
This  gentleman,  in  a  conversation  with  Mr.  McLaughlin, 
gave  it  as  his  opinion  that  the  Doctor  could  not  hold  his 
claim  at  the  Falls,  because  he  was  a  British  subject.    Here 


■■-Y- 


opposition  to 
iled,  and  the 
iisidered  that 
,  and  should 
snt  from  this 
lission  would 
Id  do  so  for 

'  a  citizen  of 
.  did  not  re- 
•re  he  could 
Upon  which 
[r.  Waller  in 
HJ,  In  the  in- 
f  implication 
and  agreed 
that  portion 
d  improved, 
cunt  of  laud 

To  this  Dr. 
ey  and  meas- 
sd,  or  given 
qua]  portion 
tn  adjoining 

Waller  "^- 
gement,  say- 

a  mode  of 
r  that  while 
I  also. 

lawyer,  who 
Mr.  llicord. 
McLaughlin, 
not  hold  his 
3ject.    Here 


MR.   RICORD  8  PROPOSITION   DECLINED. 


357 


then,  was  another  and  an  unexpected  bar  to  his  rights, 
and  the  Doctor  was  fain  to  offer  Mr.  Ricord  a  fee  if  ho 
could  show  him  any  way  by  which  he  could  hold  his  claim. 
This  proposition  after  some  deliberation,  and  consultation 
with  the  mission  gentlemen,  was  entertained  on  the  follow- 
ing terms :  That  the  Doctor  was  to  relinquish  his  claim 
to  an  island  in  the  river  whereon  the  mission  had  erected 
a  gristmill,  that  Mr.  Waller  was  to  retain  two  lots  on  the 
town  site  of  Oregon  City,  already  occupied  by  him,  and 
other  lots  besides,  to  the  amount  of  five  acres,  to  be  chosen 
by  himself:  that  Rev.  Jason  Lee  should  be  in  like  manner 
secured  in  regard  to  certain  town  lots,  in  behalf  of  the 
Methodist  mission,  and  that  for  his  services  in  bringing  about 
this  exceedingly  just  and  equitable  arrangement,  and  giv- 
in":  his  advice,  Mr.  Ricord  was  to  receive  the  sum  of  three 
hundred  pounds  sterling.  To  such  a  proposition  the 
Doctor  declined  to  give  his  assent,  and  the  matter  rested 
for  a  time. 

However,  before  Mr.  Ricord  left  the  colony,  which  he 
did  on  one  of  the  Company's  vessels,  another  conversation 
was  had  with  him,  and  also  with  Mr.  Lee,  in  which  the 
Doctor  submitted  another  proposition,  in  which  he  oil'ered 
the  mission  two  lots  for  a  church,  two  lots  for  the  clergy- 
man, two  lots  for  the  school-house,  and  two  lots  for  the 
school-master ;  said  lots  to  be  taken  out  of  a  specified  por- 
tion of  the  town  site.  He  also  offered  to  pay  for  the 
huilding  occupied  by  Mr.  Abernethy,  a  member  of  the 
mission,  and  subsequently  Governor  of  the  colony,  but  not 
for  that  portion  of  Mr.  Waller's  house  wiiich  had  been 
built  out  of  his  own  squared  timbers,  lent  for  that  purpose 
and  never  returned  or  paid  for,  but  for  all  other  improve- 
ments which  had  been  made  on  those  lots  which  he  wanted 
for  business  purposes. 

He  further  offered  to  let  the  milling  company  go  on  as  they 


■mi 


■  :':|t 


».Kt 


mm 


w 


hi 


358 


MR.    R1C011D8   CAVEAT. 


were  doing,  until  the  boundary  line  was  settled,  when,  if 
his  claim  was  admitted,  he  would  pay  them  for  the  work 
done  and  the  fair  value  of  the  mill  as  decided  by  arbitra- 
tors To  this  proposition  Mr.  Lee  and  Mr.  Ricord  gave 
their  approval,  expressing  their  sense  of  the  Doctor's  fair- 
ness and  generosity.  As  Mr.  Lee  was  about  to  set  out  for 
Wfishington,  he  requested  the  Doctor  to  leave  the  mission 
in  possession  until  his  return,  which  was  agreed  to  without 
8us})icion. 

Nearly  four  months  subsequently,  Mr.  McLaughlin  was 
presented  with  a  copy  of  a  caveat,  made  out  against  him 
three  days  previous  to  the  last  mentioned  conversa- 
tion, the  original  of  which  was  in  the  pocket  of  one  of 
these  gentlemen  at  the  very  moment  they  were  expressing 
their  sense  of  his  generosity,  and  asking  for  a  little  time 
before  disturbing  the  mission,  and   which  ran  as  follows: 


"  You  will  please  to  take  notice  that  my  client,  Mr.  A.  F.  Waller,  has  taken 
formal  measures  at  Washinj];ton  to  substantiate  his  ckiin  as  a  preomptor  and  ac- 
tual settler  upon  the  tract  of  land,  sometimes  called  the  Wallamet  Falls  settle- 
nunt  and  sometimes  Oie^^on  City,  comprising  six  hundred  and  forty  acres ;  and 
being  aw.ire  that,  although  a  foreigner,  you  claim  to  exercise  acts  of  ownership 
over  said  land,  this  notice  is  given  to  apprise  you  that  all  sales  you  may  make 
of  lots  or  other  subdivisions  of  said  farm,  after  the  receipt  hereof,  will  be  re- 
garded by  my  client,  and  by  the  government,  as  absolutely  fraudulent,  and  will 
be  mailc  at  your  peril."  Tlien  followed  the  grounds  upon  which  the  Doctor's 
claim  was  denied.  Firtl,  that  he  was  an  alien  ;  Sccomibj,  that  he  was  the  chief 
of  a  foreign  corporate  monopoly  ;  'J'hirdli/,  that  he  had  not  resided  upon  the 
land  in  (juostion  for  a  year  previous  ;  Foiirthh/,  that  he  did  not  hold  the  land 
for  himself  but  the  company;  Fifilily.  that  his  claim,  if  he  had  any,  arose  two 
years  subsequent  to  Mr.  Waller's  settlement  thereon.  This  flattering  docu- 
ment closed  with  Mr.  Ricord's  regrets  that  he  had  » faded  to  make  an  amicable 
compromise  '  of  the  matter  between  the  Doctor  and  his  client,  and  also  that 
his  "  client  had  been  driven  to  the  vexatious  proceedings  of  the  law,  in  order 
to  establish  his  rights  as  an  American  citizen." 


Poor  old  long-suffering  Dr.  McLaughlin  !  it  would  hardly 
have  bcoR  strange  had  he  hated  the  name  of  an  "Amer- 
ican citizen,"  so  often  was  it  assumed  only  to  give  counte- 


Hi 


KQIJAL    RIGHTS    OF    ALL    WHITE    MALE    CITIZENS. 


359 


rive  counte- 


iianco  to  the  greatest  abuses.  At  tlie  time,  too,  that  it 
was  so  frequently  used  and  abused,  there  was  only  a  sup- 
posit  iuus  right  to  the  soil  on  the  side  of  the  Ainerieans, 
and  a  British  citizen  had  quite  as  many  rights  really  as  an 
Aiiierican.  Besides,  Mr.  Linn's  bill,  which  was  the  found- 
ation of  the  colony's  assumptions,  made  no  distinction  be- 
twocn  people  of  any  nationality,  but  provided  that  every 
white  male  citizen  might  claim  six  hundred  and  forty 
iiiTcs  of  land.  Nor  had  the  colonists  ever  thought  of 
interfering  with  the  Canadians  who  were  settled  upon 
farms  in  the  Wallamct.  It  was  only  Dr.  McLaughlin,  and 
the  goutlemeii  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  who  were 
so  obnoxious  to  a  portion  of  the  Americans. 

We  think  it  was  about  this  time  that  Meek  once  sur- 
prised the  Doctor  at  his  devotions,  in  his  office,  where  he 
was  probably  praying  for  patience.  However  that  was, 
Meek  was  coming  in  at  the  door,  but  seeing  the  Doctor 
on  liis  knees,  praying  and  crossing  himself- — for  he  was  a 
good  Catholic — he  paused  to  await  the  conclusion.  On 
rising,  the  Doctor  glanced  round,  and  met  the  mirthful 
look  of  the  irreverent  Joe. 

"  Oh,  Mr.  Jo !  Mr.  Jo !  the  devil,  the  devil !"  cried  the  Doc- 
tor, greatly  surprised  at  the  intrusion,  and  giving  vent  to 
tiiose  rapid  ejaculations  which  always  escaped  him  when  an- 
noyed. Then  immediately  repenting  of  his  haste  in  giv- 
ing way  to  his  irritability,  he  exclaimed  in  the  next  breath 
'God  forgive  me,  God  forgive  me!"  rubbing  his  stomach 
with  a  little  rapid  movement  peculiar  to  him  ;  his  fine 
honest  Scotch  face  flushing  in  contrast  to  the  long  white 
hair  which  imparted  such  distinction  to  his  appearance. 

Bnt  to  finish  the  story  of  the  Oregon  City  claim.  In 
April  of  1844,  Doctor  McLaughlin  consented  that  Doctor 
White  should  speak  to  Mr.  Waller  about  the  matter,  and 
find  whether  or  not  it  could  be  adjusted,  because  all  this 


4i 


\u 


.'  <■; 


I.:    •'■ 


■/if    :o!- 


V 


3G0 


AKHITRATOHH    APPOINTED — TIIEIIl    AWAHI). 


discussion  was  producing  delays  ruinous  to  the  business 
of  Dr.  iMcLaugliliu.  It  was  at  last  determined  to  leave 
the  settlement  to  arl)itrators,  and  Mr.  James  Douglas,  n 
Chief  Factor  and  associate  of  the  Doctor's,  Mr.  Gilpin,  and 
Dr.  White,  were  chosen  to  act  for  Dr.  McLaughlin.  The 
terms  exacted  by  Mr.  Waller  were  five  acres  and  five  hun- 
dred dollars  to  himself,  and  fourteen  lots  to  the  Methodist 
mission.  To  the  credit  of  the  two  Americans  choson,  be 
it  said,  that  they  opposed  this  exorbitant  demand;  and 
were  only  persuaded  to  accede  to  it  by  Mr.  Douglas. 

When  the  terms  were  made  known  to  the  Doctor,  he 
exclaimed  to  his  arbitrators  all,  "  Gentlemen,  you  have 
bound  me;"  but  Mr.  Gilpin  instantly  disavowed  having  a 
hand  in  the  arrangement.  Then  said  the  Doctor  to  Mr. 
Douglas,  "  This  is  your  doings!" 

"  Yes,"  answered  Douglas,  Avho  felt  how  much  the  con- 
stant jarring  had  annoyed  his  chief,  "I  thought  it  best  for 
your  sake  to  give  you  one  good  fever,  and  have  done 
with  it.  I  have  acceded  to  the  terms  and  signed  the  pa- 
pers." 

Unfortunately  for  Mr.  Douglas'  intentions,  this  was  not 
the  last  '  good  fever '  into  which  the  Methodist  mission 
was  to  throw  the  Doctor.  Not  two  months  after  the  set- 
tlement was  made,  it  was  resolved  to  dissolve  the  mission; 
and  in  July  Mr.  Gary,  the  new  superintendent,  began  to 
sell  the  mission  property.  Knowing  that  the  lots  they 
held  were  particularly  desirable  to  Dr.  McLaughlin  for  his 
own  use,  Mr.  Gary  called  on  him  in  company  with  Mr. 
Hines  and  one  other  gentleman  of  the  mission,  and  offered 
to  sell  them  back  to  him  for  the  sum  of  six  thousand  dol- 
lars, with  the  improvements ;  reserving,  however,  two 
lots  for  the  church,  all  the  fruit  trees,  and  garden  vegeta- 
bles then  growing,  and  the  use  of  the  warehouse  for  one 
year.       -,...,.■..    ^.  m^-  :)iw^^-n.Hr,sT. 


n 


'    il 


INCOUI'ORATION    OF    OilKOON    CUT. 


3()i 


111  v;iiii  the  Doctor  roraonstrated  against  the  valuation 
[lut  upon  tlio  property,  and  against  being  made  to  ])ay 
Olio  hundred  dollars  for  Mr.  Waller's  old  house  built  with 
timber  borrowed  from  himself;  no  other  terms  would  the 
mission  consent  to.  At  last,  wearied  out  with  contention, 
and  needing  them  for  his  own  business.  Dr.  McLaughlin 
a;fr('('d  to  give  them  their  price  for  his  lots,  as  he  had  just 
bi'lbro  given  them  the  lots. 

Thus,  with  much  cost  and  annoyance,  the  question  of 
ownership  in  Oregon  City  was  settled ;  and  after  some 
solicitation  the  legislative  committee  passed  an  incorpora- 
tion act  recognizing  its  right  to  be  called  a  town.  The 
island  on  which  the  milling  company  had  their  grist  mill, 
which  had  once  formed  a  part  of  the  Doctor's  claim,  still 
remained  in  the  hands  of  the  company,  more  than  three- 
fourths  of  whom  were  members  of  the  mission.      ..'u  i   • 

But  the  end  was  not  yet,  and  we  do  not  choo.so  to  an- 
ticipate. It  is  enough  to  say  here,  that  from  this  time  on, 
for  a  period  of  four  years.  Dr.  McLaughlin  was  permitted 
to  pursue  his  business  at  Oregon  City,  or  Wallamet  Falls 
as  it  has  heretofore  been  called,  without  any  serious  inter- 
ruption. 

The  mission  party  were  still  opposed  to  anything  which 
the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  might  do,  thus  compelling 
them  to  form  a  party  by  themselves,  between  whom  and 
the  mission  party  stood  the  American  party,  made  up  of 
the  more  liberal-minded  settlers,  the  late  immigrants,  and 
the  greater  number  of  the  mountain-men.  In  each  of  the 
colonial  parties,  mission  and  American,  were  a  few  inde- 
pendent individuals,  who  were  friendly  to,  or  at  enmity 
with  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  without  consulting  party 
feeling  at  all.  So  strong  was  the  prejudice,  however,  which 
the  mission  party,  and  a  few  individuals  of  the  American 
party,  indulged  towards  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  and 


I'Mf 


[P. 


,1         1      u>*', 


m 


■     ,      3  ■■ 

m 

KE 

Bye 

!        i     . 

^ 

1    Li 

^ 

3G2 


DKSri:HATK    ClIAUACTKHa. 


Dr.  McLaughlin  in  particular,  that  there  had  always  beon 
much  uneasiness  felt  at  Vancouver  concerning  the  siilety 
of  the  fort. 

There  had  been,  from  the  first  of  the  American  settle- 
ment, some  lawless  and  desperate  cl.iracters  in  the  coiiii 
try,  coming  either  from  California,  the  mountains,  or  from 
trading  vessels  visiting  the  Colund)ia.  These  persons  be- 
longed to  no  party,  nor  had  any  association  with  the 
actual  settlers.  They  were  frowned  down  by  all  good 
citizens  alike.  Yet  this  class  of  persons  invariably  tool; 
*he  tone  of  extravagant  Americanism,  and  refused  tn  I>" 
snui)bed  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  whatever  alights 
they  were  compelled  to  boar  from  any  other  quarter, 
Many  were  the  threats  which  had  been  made  against  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company's  property  at  Vancouver;  and 
serious,  at  times,  were  Dr.  McLaughlin's  apprehensions 
lest  he  should  not  be  able  to  protect  it.  While  the  colo- 
nists, in  1843,  were  memorializing  Congress  that  they 
were  in  fear  and  danger  from  the  Indians  and  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company,  Dr.  McLaughlin  was  writing  to  the 
Directors  of  that  Company,  that  he  was  in  fear  of  the 
colonists. 

He  explained  the  position  of  affairs  in  this  wise :  there 
were  large  numbers  of  immigrants  coming  into  the  terri- 
tory from  that  portion  of  the  L^nited  States  most  hostile 
in  feeling  to  British  interests,  which  hostility  was  greatly 
excited  by  the  perusal  of  Irving's  Astoria,  and  the  pub- 
lished letters  of  Kelly  and  Spaulding,  which  represented 
the  Company's  conduct  in  the  falsest  colors.  These  immi- 
grants had  received  such  an  impression,  that  they  really 
feared  the  Company  might  set  the  Indians  on  them,  and 
although  they  now  knew  better,  it  was  hard  overcoming 
such  prejudices ;  besides,  there  were  always  some  whc 
were  ready  to  avail  themselves  o^  iae  prejudices  of  others 


-77'- 


1)K.  MCLAUGHLIN  A8KS  FOR  rUOTKCTION. 


303 


to  get  lip  an  issue.  Threats  had  been  uttered  against 
Vancouver,  and  really  the  people  were  eneouru^'od  to 
iiiiike  iin  attack,  by  the  j)ul)lic  prints  in  the  United  States 
stilting  tliat  British  subjects  ought  not  to  be  allowed  to 
roma  1  in  Oregon.  There  was  no  dependence  in  the 
cominoii  men  sd)ont  the  fort  to  do  sentry  duty  beyond  a 
ft;w  iii^'Iits,  nor  were  there  oO^vM^rg  enough  to  be  put  upon 
piiinl  witiumt  deranging  the  \  ole  business  of  the  de- 
jiiirtincnt.  To  burn  the  fort  would  be  an  easy  matter 
enough  in  the  dry  season,  .»  erytuing  about  it  being  of 
combustible  material.  And  so  the  Doctor  asked  that  a 
government  vessel  be  sent  to  protect  Fort  Vancouver. 
No  answer,  however,  had  come  to  this  demand  up  to  the 
moiitii  of  June,  1845.  ..        ,, 

We  have  seen  how,  with  affairs  in  this  condition  at 
Viincouver,  and  with  the  settled  hostility  of  the  Mission 
party  against  Dr.  McLaughlin,  the  peace  was  yet  main- 
tained by  the  constant  and  unremitting  kindness  of  the 
Doctor  towards  the  American  settlers.  He  had  for  some 
time,  in  his  own  mind,  yielded  the  question  of  the  future 
sovereignty  of  the  country.  That  the  Americans  would 
hold  all  of  Oregon  south  of  the  Columbia  was  beyond  a 
peradventure  ;  how  much  more,  it  remained  for  the  heads 
of  government  to  decide.  The  only  question  was,  how 
to  keep  at  peace  with  them  until  the  boundary  should  be 
agreed  upon  ;  and  how  to  maintain  his  own  rights  in  Ore- 
gon, as  a  citizen,  until  the  charter  of  the  Company  should 
expire,  leaving  him  free  to  choose  whether  he  would  be 
an  American  or  a  British  subject. 


:''h,' 


o. 


364 


THE   OATH   OF   MEMBERSHIP   MODIFIED. 


-I 


yjj-st' 


.(' 


CHAPTER    XXX. 


1845,  The  pressure  of  all  these  circumstances  induced 
Dr.  McLaughlin  to  consider  whether  it  were  not  best  to 
unite  with  the  American  Organization.  It  was  true  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company's  charter  provided  for  the  govern- 
ment of  its  employes.  But  it  had  no  authority  over  Ameri- 
cans, and  if  a  desperado  calling  himself  an  American  citizen 
chose  to  destroy  the  Company's  property,  as  was  continually 
threatened,  he  could  do  so  with  impunity,  so  far  as  the 
Company's  power  to  punish  was  concerned. 

There  were  a  few  men  in  the  Wallamet  colony  with 
whom  Dr.  McLaughlin  was  somewhat  confidential,  and  to 
whom  he  had  spoken  of  his  difficulties.  Some  of  these 
were  men'bers  of  the  legislature,  and  determined  to  use 
their  influence  to  remove  the  chief  obstacle  to  the  Doc- 
tor's co-operation  with  the  Provisional  Government.  Ac- 
cordingly when  the  legislature  convened  in  the  summer  of 
1845,  the  form  of  the  oath  of  membership  was  so  altered 
as  to  bind  the  person  taking  it  to  support  the  Organic 
Laws  only  ""o  far  as  they  were  consistent  with  their  duties 
as  citizens  ot  the  United  States,  or  subjects  of  Great  Britain^ 

The  Doctor  understood  this  alteration  in  the  form  of  the 
oath  as  an  invitation  to  him  to  join  the  organization  in  be- 
half of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  and  a  letter  tohirafrom 
the  gentlemen  in  the  legislature  confirmed  him  in  thij  belief. 
Convinced  that  it  was  the  best  thing  to  do,  for  the  peace 
and  security  of  all  concerned,  the  Doctor,  after  consulting 


f  1 

!: 


_i 


UNWELCOME    VISITORS   AT   FORT   VANCOUVER.  365 


with  his  associate,  Mr.,  now  Sir  James  Douglas,  became  a 
member  of  the  colonial  organization.  Now,  certainly,  it 
would  seem,  he  might  ,  -dt  his  mind  at  rest,  since  all  the 
people  in  the  country  were  acting  together  under  one 
ffoveriiment,  which  interfered  with  the  allegiance  of  no 
one.  The  Canadians  had  already  united  with  the  Ameri- 
cans, leaving  no  outsiders  except  the  Indians ;  the  organi- 
zation itself  had  been  re-modeled  and  strengthened,  the 
colony  had  a  regular  legislature  with  the  full  poM^ers  usual 
to  such  bodies,  and  had  a  governor,  also  clothed  with  the 
gubernatorial  authority  common  to  that  office  in  the  United 
States.    ■■ 

But  just  when  Dr.  McLaughlin  was  settling  down  to  a 
somewhat  composed  state  of  mind,  in  view  of  all  the 
amendments  above  mentioned,  there  suddenly  appeared 
at  Fort  Vancouver  two  visitors — gentlemen  of  position — 
government  officers  on  leave,  which  perhaps  meant  in  this 
instance  on  a  secret  service.  These  two  gentlemen  were 
Lieut.  Peel  and  Captain  Park,  and  they  brought  a  letter 
to  Dr.  McLaughlin  from  Captain  Gordon,  of  Her  Majesty's 
ship  America,  then  in  Puget  Sound,  and  this  letter  was  to 
inform  him  that  the  America  had  been  sent  by  Admiral 
Seymour  "to  assure  Her  Majesty's  subjects  in  the  country 
of  firm  protection." 

After  the  struggle  seemed  almost  over,  and  light  began 
to  dawn  on  the  vexed  question  of  conflicting  duties,  too 
late  to  be  of  any  real  service,  but  seeming  rather  to  be  in 
danger  of  exciting  fresh  suspicion,  the  long-waited-for  help 
had  come  at  last.  Dr.  McLaughlin  had  plenty  of  reason 
to  wish  his  visitors  had  staid  away,  both  then  and  after- 
wards ;  so  evident  was  it  that  their  business  in  Oregon  was 
that  of  spies — spies  upon  himself,  as  well  as  upon  the 
Americans.  What  their  report  was,  can  only  be  guessed 
at.    Certain  it  is,  however,  that  the  Doctor  was  called  upon 


"366 


WONDERFUL    TRANSFORMATION. 


for  explanations  with  regard  to  his  acts  encouraginff 
American  settlement,  and  his  reasons  for  joining  the  Ameri- 
can colonial  organization,  and  that  he  fell  under  the  Com- 
pany's censure  for  the  same — the  misunderstanding  ending 
in  his  resignation. 

Lieut.  Peel  and  Captain  Park  made  their  visit  to  Van- 
couver agreeable  to  themselves,  as  well  as  serviceable  to 
their  Government.  They  partook  not  only  of  the  hospi- 
tality of  the  fort,  but  visited  also  among  the  American  set- 
tlers, taking  "  pot-luck,"  and  sleeping  in  a  cabin  loft,  with 
great  good  humor.  If  they  sometimes  displayed  a  little 
native  snobishness  toward  the  frontiersmen,  it  is  not  to  be 
wondered  at.  * 

As  our  friend  Meek  was  sure  to  be  found  wherever  there 
was  anything  novel  or  exciting  transpiring,  so  he  was  sure 
to  fall  in  with  visitors  so  distinguished  as  these,  and  as 
ready  to  answer  their  questions  as  they  were  to  ask  them. 
The  conversation  chanced  one  day  to  run  upon  the  changes 
that  had  taken  place  in  the  country  since  the  earUest  set- 
tlement by  the  Americans,  and  Meek,  who  felt  an  honest 
pride  in  them,  was  expatiating  at  some  length,  to  the  ill- 
concealed  amusement  of  the  young  oflficers,  who  probably 
saw  nothing  to  admire  in  the  rude  improvements  of  the 
Oregon  pioneers. 

"Mr.  Meek,"  said  one  of  them,  "if  you  have  been  so 
long  in  the  country  and  have  witnessed  such  wonderful 
transformations,  doubtless  you  may  have  observed  equally 
great  ones  in  nature ;  in  'Ae  rivers  and  mountains,  for  in- 
stance ?" 

Meek  gave  a  lightning  glance  at  the  speaker  who  had  so 
mistaken  his  respondent : 

"  I  reckon  I  have,"  said  he  slowly.  Then  waving  his 
hand  gracefully  toward  the  miajestic  Mt.  Hood,  towering 
thousands  of  feet  above  the  summit  of  the  Cascade  range, 


p 


PROMISING    CONDITION    OF    THE   COLONY. 


367 


and  white  with  everlasting  snows :     "  When  /  came  to  this 
country,  Mount  Hood  was  a  hole  in  the  ground  /" 

It  is  hardly  necessary  to  say  that  the  conversation  ter- 
minated abruptly,  amid  the  universal  cachinations  of  the 
bystanders. 

Notwithstanding  the  slighting  views  of  Her  British  Ma 
jcsty's  naval  officers,  the  young  colony  was  making  rapid 
strides.  The  population  had  been  increased  nearly  eight 
hundred  by  the  immigration  of  1844,  so  that  now  it  num- 
bered nearly  two  thousand.  Grain  had  been  raised  in 
considerable  qiiantities,  cattle  and  hogs  had  multiplied, 
and  the  farmers  were  in  the  best  of  spirits.  Even  our  hero, 
wlio  hated  farm  labor,  began  to  entertain  faith  in  the  re- 
sources of  his  land  claim  to  make  him  rich. 

Such  was  the  promising  condition  of  the  colony  in  the 
summer  of  1845.  Much  of  the  real  prosperity  of  the  set- 
tlers was  due  to  the  determination  of  the  majority  to  ex- 
clude ardent  spirits  and  all  intoxicating  drinks  from  the 
country.  So  well  had  they  succeeded  that  a  gentleman 
TOting  of  the  colony  at  that  time,  says:  "I  attended  the 
last  term  of  the  circuit  courts  in  most  of  the  counties,  and 
I  found  great  respect  shown  to  judicial  authority  every- 
where ;  nor  did  I  see  a  single  drunken  juryman^  nor  wit- 
ma.  nor  spectator.  So  much  industry,  good  order,  and 
sobriety  I  have  never  seen  in  any  community." 

While  this  was  the  rule,  there  were  exceptions  to  it. 
During  the  spring  term  of  the  Circuit  Court,  Judge  Ne- 
smith  being  on  the  bench,  a  prisoner  was  arraigned  before 
him  for  "  assault  with  intent  to  kill."  The  witness  for  the 
prosecution  was  called,  and  was  proceeding  to  give  evi- 
dence, when,  at  some  statement  of  his,  the  prisoner  vocifer- 
ated that  he  was  a  "d d  liar,"  and  quickly  strippi.ag 

off  his  coat  demanded  a  chance  to  fight  it  out  with  the 


witness. 


24 


*.' ' '  \j.  •/  *.'■  -  - ','  *■*'  ■ '  '^ « '  * 


14' 

1?   - 


368 


ANECDOTE  OF  JUDGE  NESMITH. 


Judge  Nesmith  called  for  the  interference  of  Meek, 
who  had  been  made  marshal,  but  just  at  that  moment  he 
was  not  to  be  found.  Coming  into  the  room  a  moment 
later,  ]\Ieek  saw  the  Judge  down  from  his  bench,  holdinf^ 
the  prisoner  by  the  collar. 

"  You  can  imagine,"  says  Meek,  "  the  bustle  in  court. 
But  the  Judge  had  the  best  of  it.  lie  fined  the  rascal. 
and  made  him  pay  it  on  the  spot ;  while  I  just  stood  back 
to  see  his  honor  handle  him.     That  was  fun  for  me." 

Such,  however,  was  the  good  ordei-  of  the  colony  at 
this  time,  that  it  was  thought  important  to  memorialize 
Congress  on  the  condition  and  prospects  of  Oregon— to 
remind  the  Government  of  the  precarious  situation  of  its 
expectant  children,  should  either  the  Indians  or  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company  make  war  on  them  ;  but  most  import- 
ant of  all,  to  beseech  the  United  States  to  put  an  end  to 
the  treaty  of  joint  occupation  before  the  expiration  of  the 
ten  years  now  nearly  concluded. 

The  memorial  being  prepared,  together  with  a  copy  of 
the  Organic  Laws,  and  explanations  and  assurances  to  the 
Government  that  they  were  only  adopted  th:rough  neces- 
sity, these  documents  were  signed  by  the  members  of  the 
House  of  Representatives  and  delivered  to  Dr.  White, 
who  was  about  to  leave  for  the  States,  to  se*+l«>  up  his 
accounts  at  Washington. 

Connected  with  this  very  proper  and  dignified  proce.  d- 
ing,  was  another  not  strictly  dignified,  but  on  the  contrary 
partaking  largely  of  the  ridiculous.  It  appeared  that, 
although  the  Speaker  of  the  House  opposed  the  Organic 
Law,  as  recently  adopted,  under  the  impression  it  was  his 
duty,  he  had  appended  his  name  to  the  copy  to  be  trans- 
mitted to  the  Government,  and  also  the  resolutions  of  the 
House  accompanying  them.  Dr.  White  was  already  on 
his  way  to  Vancouver  with  the  dispatches,  when  the  dis- 


1 


LUDICROUS   LEGISLATIVE   PROCEEDINGS. 


369 


covery  of  this  great  misdemeanor  was  made  known,  to 
the  assembly.  Iinniediately  thereupon  the  Speaker  was 
("•ranted  leave  of  absence,  to  follow  and  overtake  Dr. 
White,  and  to  erase  his  name  from  said  documents.  Other 
resolutions  were  passed,  ordering  a  messenger  to  be  des- 
patched to  bring  back  the  documents,  and  also  others 
not  by  any  means  complimentary  to  Dr.  White. 

A  day  or  two  later,  the  following  note  was  received 
from  Dr.  White  : 

"August  17,  1845. 
To  the  Honorable,  Sfc.  ; 

Gkxti.kmkn: — Being  on  my  way,  and  having  hut  a  moment  to  reflect,  T 
have  been  at  a  loss  which  of  your  resohitions  most  to  respect  or  to  obey;  but 
»t  length  have  become  satisfied  that  the  first  was  taken  most  soberly,  and,  as  it 
answers  my  purpose  best,  I  pledge  myself  to  adhere  strictly  to  that.  Sincerely 
wisliing  you  good  hick  in  legislating, 

I  am,  my  dear  sirs,  very  respectfully  yours,  .  . 

E.  WHITE. 

Not  to  be  outwitted  so  handsomely  by  the  aspiring  In- 
dian Agent,  it  was  subsequently 


"  Resolved,  Tliat  the  Secretary  be 
Government,  through  the  American 
tlie  articles  of  compact,  as  adopted 
last  Saturday  of  July,  A.  D.  1845  ; 
enior  and  attested  by  the  Secretary  ; 
relative  to  sending  said  documents 
Tenitory ;  also  a  copy  of  the  letter 


requested  to  forward  to  the  United  States 

Consul  at  the  Sandwich  Islandf,  a  copy  of 

by  the  people  of  Oregon  Territory,  on  the 

and  that  the  same  be  signed  by  the  Gov- 

also,  all  resolutions  adopted  h^  this  House, 

by  E.  White,  late  Indian  Agent  of  this 

of  E.  White  to  this  House." 


Whether  or  not  these  documents  were  ever  transmitted 
does  not  appear ;  but  certain  it  is,  that  Dr.  White  returned 
not  again  with  either  a  gubernatorial  commission  or  Indian 
agency.  That  he  probably  hoped  to  do  so  may  be  gath- 
ered from  an  extract  taken  from  the  St.  Louis  New  Era 
of  that  period,  which  runs  as  follows : 


iM 


li-ii 


m 

m:,. 


"Oregon. — Mr.  Elijah  White  is  on  his  way  to  Washington,  as  a  delegate 
from  the  self-constituted  government  of  Oregon,  and  goes  to  ask  for  a  seat  in  Con- 


M  j»^^ 


370 


GROWTH    OF   IMPROVEMENTS — NEW   TOWNS. 


gress,  to  represent  that  distant  territory.  He  carries  with  him  his  credentials  from 
the  jiroriaional  gorenimeut  of  Oregon,  and  a  large  petition  from  the  inhabitants 
of  that  region,  asking  that  the  jurisdiction  of  the  United  States  may  extend 
over  that  territory.  *         »         »         ♦         Xhis  delegation  to  Congress  is 

to  induce  that  body  to  take  the  actual  occupancy  of  Oregon,  and  on  his  report 
and  success  will  depend  the  decision  of  the  (juestion,  whether  or  not  the  peoplo 
will  establish  a  separate  and  independent  republic  on  the  shores  of  the  Pacific," 

But  solemn  audacity,  like  virtue,  is  sometimes  com- 
pelled to  be  its  own  reward. 

The  autumn  of  1845  was  marked  less  by  striking  events 
than  by  the  energy  which  the  people  exhibited  in  improv- 
ing the  colony  by  laying  out  roads  and  town-sites.  Al- 
ready quite  a  number  of  towns  were  located,  in  which 
the  various  branches  of  business  were  beginning  to  de- 
velop themselves.  Oregon  City  was  the  most  populous 
and  important,  but  Salem,  Charapoeg,  and  Portland  were 
known  as  towns,  and  other  settlements  were  growing  up 
on  the  Tualatin  Plains  and  to  the  south  of  them,  in  the 
fertile  valleys  of  the  numerous  tributaries  to  the  Wal- 
lamet.  ,     ,,. 

Portland  was  settled  in  this  year,  and  received  its  name 
from  the  game  of  "  heads  you  lose,  tails  I  win,"  by  wuich 
its  joint  owners  agreed  to  determine  it.  One  of  thqm 
being  a  Maine  man,  was  for  giving  it  the  name  which  it 
now  bears ,  the  other  partner  being  in  favor  of  Boston, 
because  he  was  a  Massachusetts  man.  It  was,  therefore, 
agreed  between  them  that  a  copper  cent  should  be  tossed 
to  decide  the  question  of  the  christening,  which  being 
done,  heads  and  Portland  won. 

The  early  days  of  that  city  were  not  always  safe  and 
pleasan  any  more  than  those  of  its  older  rivals ;  and  the 
few  ir  abitants  frequently  were  much  annoyed  by  the 
raids  they  were  subject  to  from  the  now  thoroughly  vag- 
abondized Indians.  On  one  occasion,  while  yet  the  pop- 
ulation was  small,  they  were  very  much  annoyed  by  the 


AN    INDIAN    CAROUSAL   AT    TORTLAND. 


371 


letimes  corn- 


visit  of  eight  or  ten  lodges  of  Indians,  who  had  some- 
where obtained  liquor  enough  to  get  drunk  on,  and  were 
enjoying  a  debauch  in  that  spirit  of  total  abandon  which 
distinguishes  the  Indian  carousal. 

Their  performances  at  length  alarmed  the  people,  yet 
no  one  could  be  found  who  could  put  an  end  to  them. 
Ill  this  dilemma  the  Marshal  came  riding  into  town,  splen- 
didly mounted  on  a  horse  that  would  turn  at  the  least 
touch  of  the  rein.  The  countenances  of  the  anxious 
Portlanders  brightened.  One  of  the  town  proprietors 
eagerly  besought  him  to  " settle  those  Indians."  "Very 
well,"  answered  Meek  ;  "  I  reckon  it  won't  take  me  long." 
Mounting  his  horse,  after  first  securing  a  rawhide  rope,  he 
"cliiirgcd"  the  Indian  lodges,  rope  in  hand,  laying  it  on 
with  force,  the  bare  shoulders  of  the  Indians  oiFering 
good  hack-grounds  for  the  pictures  which  he  was  rapidly 
executing,  '■"    'i.p;i«  u. .;  iijj' iiJ  ■■(i:i■:'■:^;.i.t). .,    ^  (. 

Not  one  made  any  resistance,  for  they  had  a  wholesome 
fear  of  tyee  Meek.  In  twenty  minutes  not  an  Indian,  man 
or  woman,  was  left  in  Portland.  Some  jumped  into  the 
river  and  swam  to  the  opposite  side,  and  some  fled  to  the 
thick  woods  and  hid  themselves.  The  next  morning, 
early,  the  women  cautiously  returned  and  carried  awa)^ 
their  property,  but  the  men  avoided  being  seen  again  by 
the  marshal  who  punished  drunkenness  so  severely. 

Readeys  query.  Was  it  Meek  or  the  Marshal  who  so 
strongly  disapproved  of  spreeing  ? 

Ans.     It  was  the  Marshal. 

The  immigration  to  Orego.i  this  year  much  exceeded 
that  of  any  previous  year ;  and  there  was  the  usual 
amount  of  poverty,  sickness,  and  suffering  of  every  sort, 
among  the  fresh  arrivals.  Indeed  the  larger  the  trains 
the  greater  the  amount  of  suffering  generally ;  since  the 
grass  was  more  likely  to  be  exhausted,   and  more  hin- 


.A 


■k 


tit 


■  it 

li 


./: 

■       '^^Q 

':■   ■ 

'  ^Ks 

y        ■ 

\M 

372 


TUE   IMMIGUATION    OF    1845. 


■1  !' 


drances  of  every  kind  were  likely  to  occur.  In  any  case, 
a  march  of  several  months  through  an  unsettled  country 
was  sure  to  leave  the  traveler  iu  a  most  forlorn  and  ex- 
hausted condition  every  way. 

This  was  the  situation  of  thousands  of  people  who 
reached  the  Dalles  in  the  autunni  of  1845.  Food  waa 
very  scarce  among  them,  and  the  dilliculties  to  encounter 
before  reaching  the  Wallamet  just  as  great  a^^  those  of  the 
two  previous  years.  As  usual  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company 
came  to  the  assistance  of  the  immigrants,  furnishing  a  pas- 
sage down  the  river  in  their  boats;  the  sick,  and  the 
women  and  children  being  taken  first.  ■      •- •   ■"•-*•■ 

Among  the  crowd  of  people  encamped  at  the  Dalles, 
was  a  Mr.  Rector,  since  well  known  in  Oregon  and  Cali- 
fornia. Like  many  others  he  was  destitute  of  provisions ; 
his  supplies  having  given  out.  Neither  had  he  any  money. 
In  this  extremity  he  did  that  which  was  very  disagreeable 
to  him,  as  one  of  the  "prejudiced"  American  citizens 
who  were  instructed  beforehand  to  hate  and  suspect  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company — he  applied  to  the  company's 
agent  at  the  Dalles  for  some  potatoes  and  flour,  confessing 
his  present  inability  to  pay,  with  much  shame  and  reluc- 
tance. 

"  Do  not  apologize,  sir,"  said  the  agent  kindly ;  "  take 
what  you  need.  There  is  no  occasion  to  starve  while  our 
supplies  hold  out." 

Mr,  R.  found  his  prejudices  in  danger  of  melting  away 
under  such  treatment ;  and  not  liking  to  receive  bounty  a 
second  time,  he  resolved  to  undertake  the  crossing  of  the 
Cascade  mountains  while  the  more  feeble  of  the  immi- 
grants were  being  boated  down  the  Columbia.  A  few 
others  who  were  in  good  health  decided  to  accompany 
him.  They  succeeded  in  getting  their  wagons  forty  miles 
beyond  the  Dalles ;  but  there  they  could  move  no  further. 


THE    CASCADE    MOUNTAIN    UOAD-HUNTERS. 


373 


^ 


i 


III  this  dilemma,  after  consultation,  Mr.  Rector  and  Mr. 
Burluw  agreed  to  go  ahead  and  look  out  a  wagon  road. 
Taking  with  them  two  days'  provisions,  they  started  on 
ill  the  direction  of  Oregon  City.  But  they  found  road 
hunting  in  the  Cascade  mountains  an  experience  unlike 
aiiv  they  had  ever  had.  Not  only  had  they  to  contend 
with  the  usual  obstacles  of  precipices,  ravines,  mountam 
torrents,  and  weary  stretches  of  ascent  and  descent;  but 
they  found  the  forests  standing  so  thickly  that  it  would 
have  been  impossible  to  have  passed  between  the  trees 
with  their  wagons  had  the  ground  been  clear  of  fallen 
tiiiiher  and  undergrowth.  On  the  contrary  these  latter 
oi)st;iclos  were  the  greatest  of  all.  So  thickly  were  the 
trunks  of  fallen  trees  crossed  and  ^crossed  everywhere, 
and  so  dense  the  growth  of  bushes  in  amongst  them,  that 
it  was  with  difficulty  they  could  force  their  way  on  foot. 

It  soon  became  apparent  to  the  road  hunters,  that  two 
(lays'  rations  would  not  suffice  for  what  work  they  had 
before  them.  At  the  first  camp  it  was  agreed  to  live 
upon  half  rations  the  next  day  ;  and  to  divide  and  subdi- 
vide their  food  each  day,  only  eating  half  of  what  was 
left  from  the  day  before,  so  that  there  would  always  still 
remain  a  morsel  in  case  of  dire  extremity. 

But  the  toil  of  getting  through  the  woods  and  over  the 
mountains  proved  excessive ;  and  that,  together  with  in- 
sulTicient  food,  had  in  the  course  of  two  or  three  days 
reduced  the  strength  of  Mr.  Barlow  so  that  it  was  with 
great  ctFort  only  that  he  could  keep  up  with  his  younger 
and  more  robust  companion,  stumbling  and  falling  at 
every  few  steps,  and  frequently  hurting  himself  considera- 
bly. 

So  wolfish  and  cruel  is  the  nature  of  men,  under  trying 
circumstances,  that  instead  of  feeling  pity  for  his  weaker 
and  less  fortunate  companion,  Mr.  Rector  became  impa- 


K^  '   ^ 


\ 


m 
'it' 


■:1 


;  i  I' 


ml 


fv*.    * 


Y* 


37-i 


THE    CASCADE    MOUNTAIN    UOAU-UUNTEIW. 


*    1 

III 


ticnt,  blaming  him  for  causing  delays,  and  often  rcquirin" 
assistance. 

To  render  their  situation  still  more  trying,  rain  began 
to  fall  heavily,  wliich  with  the  cold  air  of  the  mountains 
soon  benumbed  their  exhausted  frames.  Fearing  that 
should  they  go  to  sleep  so  cold  and  famished,  thoy  miirht 
never  be  able  to  rise  again,  on  the  fourth  or  fifth  eveniii<' 

they  resolved  to 
kindle  a  fire,  ifby 
any  means  they 
could  do  so.  Dry 
and  broken  wood 
had  been  plenty 
enough,  but  for  tlio 
rain,  w^hich  was 
drenching  every- 
thing. Neither 
matches  nor  fliut 
had  they,  however, 
in  any  case.  The 
night  was  setting 
in  black  with  dark- 
ness ;  the  wind 
swayed  the  giant 
firs  over  head,  and 
then  they  heard 
the  thunder  of  a 
falling  monarch  of 
the  forest  unpleas- 
antly near.  Search- 
ing among  the  bush- 
es, and  under  falhm  timber  for  some  dry  leaves  and  sticks, 
Mr.  Rector  took  a  bundle  of  them  to  the  most  sheltered 
spot  he  could  find,  and  set  himself  to  work  to  coax  a  spark 
of  fire  out  of  two  pieces  of  dry  wood  which  he  had  split 


THE  ROAD-HUNTERS. 


Ti^^ 


I'nF 


r"-! 


THE    CASCADE    MOUNTAIN    IIOAD-HUNTEIIS. 


375 


foi'  tliiit  purpose.  It  was  a  long  and  weary  wliile  before  suc- 
cess wasatttiiiied,  l)y  vigorous  rubbing  together  of  the  dry 
wood, but  it  was  attained  at  hist;  and  the  stiiVeniug  limbs 
oftiio  road-hunters  were  warmed  by  a  blazing  eamp-fire. 

The  following  day,  the  food  being  now  reduced  to  a 
criiiiib  for  each,  the  explorers,  weak  and  dejected,  toiled 
oil  in  silence,  Mr.  Rector  always  in  advance.  On  chancing 
to  look  back  at  his  companion  he  observed  him  to  be 
biiisliiiig  away  a  tear.  "What  now,  old  man?"  asked 
Mr.  Pt.  with  most  unchristian  harshness. 

"  What  would  you  do  with  me.  Rector,  should  I  fall  and 
hrciik  a  leg,  or  become  in  any  way  disabled?"  inquired 
Mr.  Barlow,  nervously. 

"Do  with  you?  I  ivould  eat  youT  growled  Mr.  Rec- 
tor, stalking  on  again.  '      -     ' 

As  no  more  was  said  for  some  time,  Mr.  R.'s  conscience 
rather  misgave  him  that  he  treated  his  friend  unfeelingly ; 
then  he  stole  a  look  back  at  him,  and  beheld  the  wan  face 
bathed  in  tears.  '     /-        -  •  ,-      •..,'■  -:      - 

"Come,  come,  Barlow,"  said  he  ore  kindly,  "don't 
take  affairs  so  much  to  heart.  You  will  not  break  a  leg, 
and  I  should  not  eat  you  if  you  did,  for  you  have'nt  any 
fle.sh  on  you  to  eat." 

"  Nevertheless,  Rector,  I  want  you  to  promise  me  that 
in  case  I  should  fall  and  disable  myself,  so  that  I  cannot 
get  on,  you  will  not  leave  me  here  to  die  alone,  but  will 
kill  me  with  your  axe  instead." 

"Nonsense,  Barlow;  you  are  weak  and  nervous,  but 
yon  are  not  going  to  be  disabled,  nor  eaten,  nor  killed. 
Keep  up  man ;  we  shall  reach  Oregon  City  yet." 

So,  onward,  but  ever  luore  slowly  and  painfully,  toiled 
again  the  pioneers,  the  wonder  being  that  Mr.  Barlow's 
fears  were  not  realized,  for  the  clambering  and  descend- 
ing gave  him  many  a  tumble,  the  tumbles  becoming  more 
frequent  as  his  strength  declined.  'j-r^Us- 


\S\ 


\:;^ 


•>   I 


\ 

H( 

Wt—    i 

+ 

1  ^ 

^1 

1' 

Ir 

^4.  ""■'" 
T(3 


1 
s. 


■■'  i^^- 


.170 


A    ItKAHON    roil    PATHIOTISM. 


Towards  cvonln^'  of  this  day  as  tlioy  camo  to  the  pre- 
cipitous bank  of  a  inouiitaiii  stream  wliich  was  flowing  iu 
tho  direction  they  wislied  to  go,  suddenly  there  came  to 
their  ears  a  sound  of  more  than  celestial  melody;  tiio 
tinkling  of  bells,  lowing  of  cattle,  the  voice  of  inoii  hal- 
looing to  the  herds.  They  had  struck  the  (tattle  tniil. 
■which  they  had  first  diverged  from  in  the  hope  of  fnuliiiir 
a  road  passjible  to  wagons.  In  the  overwhelming  revul- 
sion of  feeling  which  seized  them,  neither  were  able  for 
some  moments  to  command  their  voices  to  call  for  assist- 
ance. That  night  they  camped  with  the  herdsmen,  and 
suj)pcd  in  such  plenty  as  an  immigrant  camp  afforded. 

Such  were  the  sufferings  of  two  individuals,  out  of  a 
great  crowd  of  sufferers ;  some  afllicted  in  one  Avay  and 
some  in  another.  That  people  who  endured  so  much  to 
reach  their  El  Dorado  should  be  the  most  locally  patriotic 
people  in  the  world,  is  not  singular.  Mr.  Barlow  lived  to 
construct  a  wagon  road  over  the  Cascades  for  the  use  of 
subsequent  immigrations.  . 


\  r 


>■* 


j..  I   >■■■■    ■,. 


.#* 


-«=»i 


,*,     ,  V       t..  ^iil;. , 


CULLliCTlON    OF   TAXEB— A   POl.DEttOUtt   CL'UUENCT.     377 


T"r^' 


T 


CHAPTER    XXXI, 

Early  in  1846,  Meek  resigned  his  oflice  of  marshal  of 
the  colony,  owing  to  the  difliculty  of  collecting  taxes;  for 
in  a  thinly  inhabited  country,  where  wheat  was  a  legal 
teiuler,  at  sixty  cents  per  bushel,  it  was  rather  a  burden- 
some occupation  to  collect,  in  so  ponderous  a  currency ; 
and  one  in  which  the  collector  required  a  granary  more 
tiiiin  a  pocket-book.  Besides,  Meek  had  out-^rown  the 
marshulship,  and  aspired  to  become  a  legislator  at  the  next 
June  election.  ■         .      ••         '  ' 

He  had  always  discharged  his  duty  with  promptitude 
and  rectitude  while  sheriff;  and  to  his  known  courage 
might  be  attributed,  in  many  instances,  the  ready  compli- 
ance with  law  which  was  remarkable  in  so  new  and  pecu- 
liar an  organization  as  that  of  the  Oregon  colony.  The 
people  had  desired  not  to  be  taxed,  at  first ;  and  for  a 
year  or  more  the  goverment  wps  sustained  by  a  fund 
raised  by  subscription.  When  at  last  it  was  deemed  best 
to  make  collections  by  law,  the  Canadians  objected  to  taxa- 
tion to  support  an  American  government,  while  they  were 
still  subjects  of  Great  Britain  ;  but  ultimately  yielded  the 
point,  by  the  advice  of  Dr.  McLaughlin. 

But  it  was  not  always  the  Canadians  who  objected  to 
being  taxed,  as  the  following  anecdote  will  show.  Dr. 
McLaughlin  was  one  day  sea'  a  in  his  office,  in  conversa- 
tion with  some  of  his  American  friends,  when  the  tall  form 
of  the  sheriff  darken '^d  the  doorway. 

"I  have  come  to  tax  you.  Doctor,"  said  Meek  with  his 


:^J 


i    Mil 


|.:i 


H    1 


f 


i 


— "11 


t~ 


r 


■iVP 


378 


THE    BORROWED    STEER. 


blandest  manner,  and  with  a  merry  twinkle,  half  sup- 
pressed, in  his  black  eyes. 

"To  tax  me,  Mr.  Jo.  I  was  not  aware — I  really  ^-as 
not  aware — I  believed  I  had  paid  my  tax,  Mr.  Jo" 
stammered  the  Doctor,  somewhat  annoyed  at  the  prospect 
of  some  fresh  demand. 

"  Thar  is  an  old  ox  out  in  my  neighborhood,  Doctor, 
and  he  is  said  to  belong  to  you.  Thar  is  a  tax  of  twenty- 
five  cents  on  him." 

"I  do  not  understand  you,  Mr.  Jo.  I  have  no  cattle  out 
in  your  neighborhood."  ^cci:  rv 

"I  couldn't  say  how  that  may  be,  Doctor.  All  I  do 
know  about  it,  is  just  this.  I  went  to  old  G — 's  to  collect 
the  tax  on  his  stock — and  he's  got  a  powerful  lot  of  cat- 
tle,— and  while  we  war  a  countin  'em  over,  he  left  out 
that  old  ox  and  said  it  belonged  to  you."      ,-  •-■ 

"Oh,  oh,  I  see,  Mr.  Jo:  yes,  yes,  I  see!  Sc  it  was 
Mr.  G — ,"  cried  the  Doctor,  getting  very  red  in  the  face. 
"  I  do  remember  now,  since  you  bring  it  to  my  mind,  that 
/  lent  Mr.  G —  that  steer  six  years  ago !  Here  are  the 
twenty-five  cents,  Mr.  Jo." 

The  sheriff  took  his  money,  and  w^ent  away  laughing; 
while  the  Doctor's  American  friends  looked  quite  as  much 
annoyed  as  the  Doctor  himself,  over  the  meanness  of  some 
of  their  countrymen. 

The  year  of  1846  was  one  of  the  most  exciting  in  the 
political  history  of  Oregon.  President  Polk  had  at  last 
given  the  notice  required  by  the  Joint  occupation  treaty, 
that  the  Oregon  boundary  question  must  be  settled.  For 
years  the  Oregon  question  had  been  before  Congress,  and 
the  people  had  taken  an  extraordinary  interest  in  the  man- 
ner in  which  it  should  be  arranged.  Ever  since  the  emi- 
gration to  Oregon  hod  set  in,  the  frequent  memorials  from 
the  far-off  colony,  and  the  letters  which  private  individu- 


■^ 


FIFTY-FOUU    FORTY    OR   FIGHT. 


379 


als  were  continually  writing  to  friends  in  the  states,  con- 
cerning tlie  beauty,  fertility,  and  healthfulness  of  the  new 
territory,  kept  alive  the  interest  of  the  people.  As  the 
time  drew  nigh  when  a  notice  might  be  given,  thousands 
)\ere  anxiously  waiting  to  learn  what  course  the  President 
would  take  with  regard  to  it.  And  when  at  length  the 
notice  appeared,  there  was  equally  great  anxiety  to  have 
the  government  demand  every  inch  of  territory  that  could 
be  claimed  under  the  most  strict  construction  of  the 
Florida  treaty ;  i.  c.,  as  far  north  as  latitude  54°  40'. 

So  much  had  the  subject  been  discussed,  and  so  greatly 
had  the  feeling  against  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  mo- 
no['oly  been  strengthened  since  the  colonization  of  Ore- 
gon by  the  Americans,  that  the  people  did  not  take  into 
consideration  the  Mexican  War,  nor  the  designs  of  the 
British  government  on  California,  but  adopted  for  their 
watchword  "fifty-four  forty  or  fight,"  with  the  greatest  en- 
thusiasm; as  if  the  "universal  Yankee  nation"  need  not 
fear  the  combined  attacks  of  England,  Mexico,  and  Cali- 
fornia, with  twenty  or  thirty  thousand  Indians  thrown  in. 

That  government  was  more  cautious,  was  perhaps  a 
gain  to  our  territorial  possessions,  of  California,  although 
by  it  we  lost  some  degrees  of  less  desirable  soil.  How- 
ever that  may  be,  both  the  British  lion  and  the  American 
eagle  kept  watch  and  guard  over  Oregon  in  that  summer 
of  suspense,  1846.  About  the  close  of  that  year  there 
were  fifteen  English  vessels  of  war  in  the  Pacific,  and 
vight  American  war  vessels ; — there  had  been  nine.  The 
total  number  of  guns  in  the  English  squadron  was  335  j  in 
the  American,  310. 

Agreeably  to  the  promise  which  Dr.  McLaughlin  had 
received  from  the  British  Admiral,  H.  B.  M.  Sloop  of  war 
ilndeste  had  arrived  in  the  Columbia  River  in  the  month 
of  October,  1845,  and  had  wintered  there.     Much  as  the 


^h 


^•i 


380 


LOSS   OF    THE    SHARK. 


, !     ■,'  ' 


Doctor  had  wished  for  protection  from  possible  outbreaks, 
ho  yet  felt  that  the  presence  of  a  British  man-of-war  in 
the  Cohimbia,  and  another  one  in  Puget  Sound,  was  offen- 
sive to  the  colonists.  He  set  himself  to  cover  up  as  care- 
fully as  possible  the  disagreeable  features  of  the  British 
lion,  by  endeavoring  to  establish  social  intercourse  between 
the  officers  of  the  Modeste  and  the  ladies  and  gentlemen 
of  the  colony,  and  his  endeavors  were  productive  of  a 
partial  success.  '  •(.•.lii;'  ; 

During  the  summer,  however,  the  United  States  Schooner 
Shark  appeared  in  the  Columbia,  thus  restoring  the  balance 
of  power,  for  the  relief  of  national  jealousy.  After  re- 
maining for  some  weeks,  the  Shark  took  her  departure, 
but  was  wrecked  on  the  bar  at  the  mouth  of  the  river, 
according  to  a  prophecy  of  Meek's,  who  had  a  grudge 
against  her  co?^  mander,  Lieut.  Howison,  for  spoiling  the 
sport  he  was  having  in  company  with  one  of  her  officers, 
while  Howison  was  absent  at  the  Cascades. 

It  appears  that  Lieut.  Schenck  was  hospitably  inclined, 
and  that  on  receiving  a  visit  from  the  hero  of  many  bear- 
fights,  who  proved  to  be  congenial  on  the  subject  of  good 
liquors,  he  treated  both  Meek  and  himself  so  freely  as  to 
render  discretion  a  foreign  power  to  either  of  them.  Va- 
ried and  brilliant  were  the  exploits  performed  by  these 
jolly  companions  during  the  continuance  of  the  spree; 
and  still  more  brilliant  were  those  they  talked  of  perform- 
ing, even  the  taking  of  the  Modeste,  which  was  lying  a 
little  way  off,  in  front  of  Vancouver.  Fortunately  for  the 
good  of  all  concerned,  Schenck  contented  himself  with 
firing  a  salute  as  Meek  was  going  over  the  side  of  the  ship 
on  leaving.  But  for  this  misdemeanor  he  was  put  under 
arrest  by  Howison,  on  his  return  from  the  Cascades,  an  in- 
dignity which  Meek  resented  for  the  prisoner,  by  assuring 
Lieut.  Howison  that  he  would  lose  his  vessel  before  he 


7P""^nPK^'"?F"^ 


THE  LONG  SUSPENSE  OVER. 


381 


trot  out  of  the  river.  And  lose  her  he  did.  Schenck  Avas 
released  after  the  vessel  struck,  escaping  with  the  other 
officers  and  crew  by  means  of  small  boats.  Very  few  arti- 
cles were  saved  from  the  wreck,  but  among  those  few  was 
the  stand  of  colors,  wh^ch  Lieut.  Ilowison  subsequently 
presented  to  Gov.  Abernethy  for  the  colony's  encourage- 
ment and  use.  News  of  the  Treaty  which  defined  the 
Oregon  boundary  having  been  just  received,  Lieut.  Howi- 
sou  concluded  his  letter  to  the  Governor  by  saying :  "Nor 
can  I  omit  the  occasion  to  express  my  gratification  and 
pride  that  this  relict  of  my  late  command  should  be  em- 
phatically the  first  United  States'  flag  to  wave  over  the 
undisputed  and  purely  American  Territory  of  Oregon." 

The  long  agony  was  over  at  last ;  the  boundary  ques- 
tion was  settled,  but  not  to  the  satisfaction  of  the  majority 
of  the  people  in  Oregon.  They  no  more  liked  the  terms- 
of  the  treaty,  which  granted  the  free  navigation  of  the 
Columbia  to  England  until  the  expiration  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company's  chai'tor,  than  they  did  the  fixing  of  the 
boundary  line  at  the  49th  parallel.  However,  there  was 
no  help  for  it  now,  and  after  one  long  sigh  of  disappoint- 
ment and  chagrin,  they  submitted  to  necessity ;  and,  rather 
sullenly  it  is  true,  accepted  the  fact  that  seventeen  years 
more  they  must  endure  the  odious  monopoly  of  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company.  While  a  few  malcontents  talked 
quite  openly  of  a  design  to  take  Fort  Vancouver,  and  thus 
end  the  business  of  that  Company,  the  wiser  portion  of 
the  people  interested  themselves  in  the  future  welfare  of 
the  colony,  and  perhaps  a  few  weie  thoughtful  enough  to 
remember  that  the  gentlemen  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany in  Oregon  had  some  reason  to  feel  disappointed  also, 
inasmuch  as,  contrary  to  their  expectations,  the  United 
States  had  taken  possession  of  both  sides  of  the  Columbia 
River.        -  -   -^    ;  ..       .■      -'■  .  ■  -h  -^-  -^'  • 


f  ii-#- 


382 


THE   OREGON   SPECTATOR. 


CHAPTER    XXXII 


t*»jU-. 


f'j"»^ 


1846.  There  had  been  no  winter  since  the  commence- 
ment  of  the  American  settlement  which  had  not  had  its 
own  particidar  causes  for  agitation,  its  colonial  gossip,  and 
its  party  divisions.  .  .  r : 

The  principal  subjects  on  which  the  agitation,  the  gos- 
sip, and  the  divisions,  were  founded,  this  winter,  were 
first,  the  treaty,  secondly,  the  immigration,  and  lastly,  the 
usual  jealous  dislike  toward  everything  that  was  British. 
•Formerly,  the  news  of  the  colony  had  been  carried  from 
lip  to  lip  alone :  but  now  a  newspaper,  established  in  the 
beginning  of  the  year,  and  conducted  by  the  "Oregon 
Printing  Association"  at  Oregon  City,  had  become  the 
medium  through  which  colonial  affairs  were  supposed  to 
be  made  known. 

And  as  the  editor  of  the  Oregon  Spectator  had  as  yet 
no  exchange  list,  the  matter  it  contained  could  not  but  be 
that  which  related  almost  entirely  to  Oregon  affairs.  From 
the  following  advertisement,  which  appeared  in  the  first 
number  of  the  Spectator^  we  may  learn  that  the  facili- 
ties for  postal  communication  were,  at  the  best,  indif- 
ferent, 'i 

To  PERSONS  WISHING  TO  8KNi>  LETTEB8  East. — The  postmastcr-general 
has  contracted  with  Mr.  H.  Burns  to  carry  the  mail  from  Oregon  City  to 
Weston,  in  Missouri,  for  one  trip  only.  Letters  mailed  at  any  of  the  offices, 
post  paid,  will  be  forwarded  to  any  part  of  the  United  States.  As  the  mail 
sent  oast,  by  Mr.  Burns,  will  reach  Weston  early  in  the  season,  it  would  be 
advisable  for  those  wisliing  to  correspond  with  their  friends  in  the  east,  to  avail 
themselves  of  die  opportunity.     Postage  only  fifty  cents  on  single  sheets. 


^: 


EARLY   LITERATURE    OF    OREGON. 


383 


Through  the  same  medium  we  are  informed,  by  the  fol- 
lowing notices,  that  the  officers  of  the  Modeste^  and  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company,  were  still  exerting  themselves  to 
allay  any  irritation  of  feeling  which  dissatisfaction  with 
the  late  treaty  might  have  occasioned  in  the  minds  of  the 
Americans.  '''• 

Theatre  at  Vancouver. — That  happy  ship,  (H.  B.  M.  S.  "  Modeste,") 
was  a  scene  of  mirth  and  amusement  upon  Tuesday  evening,  the  "  Corps  Dra- 
mati(iiie  "  again  performing  before  a  fashionable  and  crowded  audience.  The 
rauiiical  and  favorite  comedy  of  "  Love  in  a  Village,"  followed  by  the  "  Mock 
Doctor  "  and  the  "  Mayor  of  Garratt,"  were  the  plays  of  the  evening,  and  we 
have  to  congratulate  the  whole  performers  in  having  so  ably  sustained  their 
c.iaracters,  and  to  thank  these  "  tars  "  for  the  rich  treat  afforded  us,  in  the  far 
tffs.',  upon  this  occasion,  as  well  as  for  the  variety  of  attractions  during  the 
past  winter. 

Theatre  at  Vancouver. — The  first  performance  of  this  season  took  place 
on  the  evening  of  the  5th  instant,  on  board  H.  B.  M.  S.  Modeste,  by  the  same 
party  of  sailors  who  got  up  the  drama  so  credibly,  and  afforded  so  much  amuse- 
nunt  last  winter.  Tlie  plays  were  "  High  life  below  stairs,"  "  The  deuce  is  in 
him,"  and  "  The  Irish  Widow;"  and  to  do  justice  to  these  companions  of  the 
wave,  the  characters  were,  if  not  more  ably,  equ..lly  as  well  sustained  as  for- 
nurly,  A  numerous  audience  attended,  (front  seats  graced  by  a  beauteous  cir- 
cle of  the,  fair  sex,)  and  all  appeared  much  gratified  with  the  fun  and  mirth  of 
tlicse  entertainments.  "  - 

In  addition  to  the  theatrical  entertainments,  we  find 
mention  of  balls,  races,  and  picnics,  extending  through 
the  year-and-a-half  during  which  the  Modeste  remained  in 
the  river.  •    "  ■    ■ 

The  Spectator  usually  contained  articles  on  the  resources 
of  the  country,  intended  to  instruct  the  friends  of  the 
colony  in  the  East,  and  also  frequent  metrical  tributes  to 
the  loveliness  and  excellence  of  the  new  territory,  con- 
tributed by  enthusiastic  correspondents.  The  average 
amount  of  poetical  ability  exhibited  in  these  eimsions  was 
that  of  a  "happy  mediocrity;"  and  yet  the  local  interest 
which  attached  to  them  made  them  rather  attractive  read- 
ing at  that  time.  One  stanza  selected  at  random,  will 
25 


-I 


m 


384 


ADVENTURES    OF   A    SALMON. 


convey  the  spirit  of  these  productions,  quite  as  well  as  a 
more  lengthy  quotation : 


w 


"  Upon  Mount  Hood  I  stand, 
And  witJj  rapt  {^aze  exjjlore 
The  valloy,  and  that  patriot  band 
Upon  Columbia's  shore." 


The  author  of  the  following,  however,  was  not  either  a 
dull  or  an  unobservant  writer ;  and  we  insert  his  verses  as 
a  comical  bit  of  natural  history  belonging  peculiarly  to 
Oregon. 

ADVENTURES  OF  A  'COLUMBIA  SALMON. 


What  is  yon  object  which  attracts  the  eye 
Of  the  observing  traveler,  who  ascends 
Columbia's  waters,  when  the  summer  sky 
In  one  soft  tint,  calm  nature's  clothing  blends : 
As  glittering  in  the  sunbeams  down  it  floats 
'Till  some  vile  vulture  on  its  carcase  gloats  ? 


V 


'Tis  a  poor  salmon,  which  a  short  time  past,  ^ 

With  thousands  of  her  finny  sisters  came,  " '  ' 

By  instinct  taught,  to  seek  and  find  at  last,  .  ^  ,- 

The  place  that  gave  her  birth,  there  to  remain 
'Till  nature's  offices  had  been  discharged, 
And  fry  from  out  the  ova  had  emerged.  j 

Her  Winter  spent  amongst  the  sheltered  bays 
Of  the  salt  sea,  where  numerous  fish  of  prey, 
With  appetite  keen,  the  number  of  her  days         •.!.';■', 
Would  soon  have  put  an  end  to,  could  but  they 
Have  caught  her ;  but  as  they  could  not,  she, 
Spring  having  come,  resolved  to  quit  the  sea : 

And  moving  with  the  shoal  along  the  coast,  at  length 
She  reached  the  outlet  of  her  native  river. 
There  tarried  for  a  little  to  recruit  her  strength, 
So  tried  of  late  by  cold  and  stormy  weather ; 
Sporting  in  playfiil  gambols  o'er  the  banks  and  sands, 
Chasing  the  tiny  fish  frequenting  there  in  bauds. 


'-v*f-i 


'■v>  ^r^oi  1)7 


ADVENTURES    OF    A   SALMON. 


385 


"But  ah,  how  little  thought  this  simple  fiah, 
The  toils  and  perils  she  had  yet  to  suffer, 
The  chance  she  ran  of  serving  as  a  dish 
For  hungry  white  men  or  for  Indian's  supper, — •  , 
Of  enemies  in  which  the  stream  abounded, 
When  lo !  she's  by  a  fisher's  net  surrounded. 

Partly  conscious  of  her  approaching  end, 

She  darts  with  meteoric  swiftness  to  and  fro. 

Striking  the  frail  meslies,  within  which  she's  penned, 

AVhi(;h  bid  defiance  to  her  stoutest  blow : 

To  smaller  compass  by  degrees  the  snare  is  drawn, 

When  with  a  leap  she  clears  it  and  is  gone. 

Once  more  at  large  with  her  companions,  now 
Become  more  cautious  from  her  late  escape, 
She  keeps  in  deeper  water  and  thinks  how 
Foolish  she  was  to  get  in  such  a  scrape ; 
As  mounting  further  up  the  stream,  she  vies    * 
With  other  fish  in  catching  gnats  and  flies. 

And  as  she  qu  her  way  did  thus  enjoy 
Life's  fleeting  moments,  there  arose  a  panic 
Amongst  the  stragglers,  who  in  haste  deploy 
Aroimd  their  elder  leaders,  quick  as  magic. 
While  she  unconscious  of  the  untimely  rout, 
Was  by  a  hungry  otter  singled  out : 

Vigorous  was  the  chase,  on  the  marked  victim  shot 
Through  the  clear  water,  while  in  close  pursuit 
Followe<l  her  amphibious  foe,  who  scarce  had  got 
Near  enough  to  grasp  her,  when  with  turns  acute, 
And  leaps  and  revolutions,  she  so  tried  the  otter. 
He  gave  up  the  hunt  with  merely  having  bit  her. 

Scarce  had  she  recovered  from  her  weakness,  when 
An  ancient  eagle,  of  the  bald-head  kind. 
Winging  his  dreary  way  to'rds  some  lone  glen. 
Where  was  her  nest  witli  four  plump  eaglets  lined, 
Espied  the  fish,  which  he  judgi>d  quite  a  treat. 
And  just  the  morsel  for  his  little  ones  to  eat: 

And  sailing  in  spiral  circles  o'er  the  spot,  ^' ' 

Where  lay  his  prey,  then  hovering  for  a  time, 
To  take  his  wary  aim,  he  stooped  and  caught 
His  booty,  which  he  carried  to  a  lofty  pine ; 
Upon  whose  topmost  branches,  he  first  adjusted 
His  awkward  load,  ere  with  his  claws  he  crushed  it. 


i^fl 


n 


386 


ADVENTURES   OF   A   SALMON. 


"  111  is  the  wind  that  blows  no  person  good  " — 
So  said  the  adage,  and  as  luck  would  have  it, 
A  huge  grey  eagle  out  in  search  of  food, 
Who  just  had  whet  his  hunger  with  a  rabbit, 
Attacked  the  other,  and  tlie  pair  together, 
In  deadly  combat  fell  into  the  river. 

Our  friend  of  course  made  off,  when  she'd  done  falling 

Some  sixty  yards,  and  well  indeed  she  might; 

For  ne'er,  perhaps,  a  fish  got  such  a  mauling 

Since  Adam's  time,  or  went  up  such  a  height 

Into  the  air,  and  came  down  helter-skelter, 

As  did  this  poor  production  of  a  melter.  .  ^ 

All  these,  witli  many  other  dangers,  she  survived, 
Too  manifold  in  this  short  space  to  mention  ; 
So  we'll  suppose  her  to  have  now  arrived 
Safe  at  the  Falls;  without  much  more  detention 
Than  one'could  look  for,  where  so  many  liked  her 
Company,  and  so  many  Indians  spiked  her. 

And  here  a  mighty  barrier  stops  her  way : 
Tlie  tranquil  wate»,  finding  in  its  course 
Itself  beset  with  rising  rocks,  which  lay 
As  though  they  said,  "  retire  ye  to  your  source," 
Bursts  with  indignant  fury  from  its  bondage,  now 
Rushes  in  foaming  torrents  to  the  chasm  below. 

The  persevering  fish  then  at  the  foot  arrives. 
Laboring  with  redoubled  vigor  mid  the  surging  tide, 
And  finding,  by  her  strength,  she  vainly  strives 
To  overcome  the  flood,  though  o'er  and  o'er  she  tried ; 
Her  tail  takes  in  her  mouth,  and  bending  like  a  bow 
That 's  to  full  compass  drawn,  aloft  herself  doth  throw ; 

And  spinning  in  the  air,  as  would  a  silver  wand 
That's  bended  end  to  end  and  upwards  cast,         ,. 
Headlong  she  falls  amid  the  showering  waters,  and 
Gasping  for  breath,  against  the  rocks  is  dashed : 
Again,  again  she  vaults,  again  she  tries. 
And  in  one  last  and  feeble  efibrt — dies.       -      ,■ 


There  was,  in  Oregon  City,  a  literary  society  called  the 
Falls  Association,"  some  of  whose  effusions  were  occa- 
sionally sent  to  the  Spectator,  and  this  may  have  been  one 


If 


lUJ, 


THE  SOUTHERN  ROUTE  TO  THE  WALLAMET. 


387 


of  them.  At  all  events,  it  is  plain  that  with  balls,  the- 
atres, literary  societies,  and  politics,  the  colony  was  not 
afflicted  with  dullness,  in  the  winter  of  1846. 

But  the  history  of  the  immigration  this  year,  afforded, 
perhaps,  more  material  for  talk  than  any  one  other  sub- 
ject. The  condition  in  which  the  immigrants  arrived  was 
one  of  great  distress.  A  new  road  into  the  valley  had 
been  tliat  season  explored,  at  great  labor  and  expense,  by 
a  company  ot  gentlemen  who  had  in  view  the  aim  to 
lessen  the  perils  usually  encountered  in  descending  the 
Columbia,  They  believed  that  a  better  pass  might  be 
discovered  through  the  Cascade  range  to  the  south,  than 
that  which  had  been  found  around  the  base  of  Mount 
Hood,  and  one  which  should  bring  the  immigrants  in  at 
the  upper  end  of  the  valley,  thus  saving  them  consid- 
erable travel  and  loss  of  time  at  a  season  of  the  year 
when  the  weather  was  apt  to  be  unsettled. 

With  this  design,  a  party  had  set  out  to  explore  the 
Cascades  to  the  south,  quite  early  in  the  spring  ;  but  fail- 
ing in  their  undertaking,  had  returned.  Another  com- 
pany was  then  immediately  formed,  headed  by  a  promi- 
nent member  of  society  and  the  legislature.  This  com- 
pany followed  the  old  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  trail, 
crossing  all  those  ranges  of  mountains  perpendicular  to 
the  coast,  which  form  a  triple  wall  between  Oregon  and 
California,  until  they  came  out  into  the  valley  of  the  Hum- 
boldt, whence  they  proceeded  along  a  nearly  level,  but 
chiefly  barren  country  to  Fort  Hall,  on  the  Snake  River. 

The  route  was  found  to  be  practicable,  although  there 
was  a  scarcity  of  grass  and  water  along  a  portion  of  it ; 
but  as  the  explorers  had  with  great  difficulty  found  out 
and  marked  all  the  best  camping  grounds,  and  encoun- 
tered first  for  themselves  all  the  dangers  of  a  hitherto  un- 
explored region,  most  of  which  they  believed  they  had 


V 


388 


TRAGIC   FATE   OF   IMMIGRANTS. 


overcome,  they  felt  no  hesitation  in  recommending  the 
new  road  to  the  emigrants  whom  they  met  at  Fort  Hall. 

Being  aware  of  the  hardships  which  the  immigrants  of 
the  previous  years  had  undergone  on  the  Snake  River 
plains,  at  the  crossing  of  Snake  River,  the  John  Day,  and 
Des  Chutes  Rivers,  and  the  passage  of  the  Columbia,  tlie 
travelers  gladly  accepted  the  tidings  of  a  safer  route  to 
the  Wallamet.  A  portion  of  the  immigration  had  already 
gone  on  by  the  road  to  the  Dalles  ;  the  remainder  turned 
off  by  the  southern  route. 

Of  those  who  took  the  new  route,  a  part  were  destined 
for  California.  All,  however,  after  passing  through  the 
sage  deserts,  committed  the  error  of  stopping  to  recruit 
their  cattle  and  horses  in  the  fresh  green  valleys  among 
the  foot-hills  of  the  mountains.  It  did  not  occur  to 
.  them  that  they  were  wasting  precious  time  in  this  way ; 
but  to  this  indulgence  was  owing  an  hicredible  amount  of 
suffering.  The  California-bound  travelers  encountered 
the  season  of  snow  on  the  Sierras,  and  such  horrors  are 
recorded  of  their  sufferings  as  it  is  seldom  the  task  of  ears 
to  hear  or  pen  to  record.  Snow-bound,  without  food, 
those  who  died  of  starvation  were  consumed  by  the  liv- 
ing ;  even  children  were  eaten  by  their  once  fond  parents, 
with  an  indifference  horrible  to  think  on :  so  does  the 
mind  become  degraded  by  great  physical  suffering. 

The  Oregon  immigrants  had  not  to  cross  the  lofty  Sier- 
ra^ ;  but  they  still  found  mountains  before  them  which,  iu 
the  dry  season,  would  have  been  formidable  enough.  In-^ 
stead,  however,  of  the  dry  weather  continuing,  very  heavy 
rains  set  in.  The  streams  became  swollen,  the  mountain 
sides  heavy  and  slippery  with  the  wet  earth.  Where  the 
.road  led  through  canyons,  men  and  women  were  some- 
.  times  forced  to  stem  a  torrent,  breast  high,  and  cold 
enough  to  chill  the  life  iu  their  veins.     The  cattle  gave 


M 


III 

Ik  • 


AN   EXCITING   WINTER. 


389 


out,  the  'vagoiis  broke  clown,  provisions  became  exhausted, 
and  a  few  persons  perished,  wliile  all  were  in  the  direst 
i^traits. 

The  first  who  got  through  into  the  valley  sent  relief  to 
those  behind  ;  but  it  was  weeks  before  the  last  of  the 
worn,  weary,  and  now  impoverished  travelers  escaped 
from  the  horrors  of  the  mountains  in  which  they  were  so 
hopelessly  entangled,  and  where  most  of  their  worldly 
goods  were  left  to  rot. 

This  unfortunate  termination  to  their  hopes  of  a  south- 
ern road  had  a  dispiriting  influence  on  the  colony  ;  inas- 
much, too,  as  some  of  the  immigrants  who  had  suffered 
most  loss,  were  disposed  to  lay  the  blame  of  it  upon  those 
gentlemen  who,  with  so  much  effort,  had  marked  out  the 
new  route.  It  did  not  soften  the  acrimony  of  this  class  of 
persons  to  be  assured  that  those  who  had  arrived  by  the 
Cai^cadcs  were  in  fully  as  bad  a  plight,  in  many  instances, 
as  themselves.  They  could  not  forgive  the  innocent  first- 
cause  of  their  own  particular  ills.  Feuds  grew  out  of 
thoir  bitter  indignation,  which  only  a  life-time  could  heal : 
aud  thus  it  was,  that  with  all  these  impoverished  new- 
comers making  demands  on  their  sympathy,  each  with  the 
tale  of  his  own  peculiar  woes  to  relate,  there  was  plenty 
of  excitement  among  the  colonists  that  winter. 

The  Oregon  legislature  met  as  usual,  to  hold  its  winter 
session,  though  the  people  hoped  and  expected  it  would 
be  for  the  last  time  under  the  Provisional  Government. 
There  were  only  two  "  mountain-men  "  in  the  House,  at 
this  session — Meek  and  Newell.  There  were  also  two 
Hudson's  Bay  Company  men,  from  the  counties  on  the 
north  side  of  the  river,  showing  an  improvement  in  the 
public  sentiment,  since  the  settlement  of  the  boundary 
question.  In  all,  there  were  but  fifteen  members.  Of  the 
three  nominees  for  Speaker  of  the  House,  Meek  was  one, 
but  failed  of  the  election. 


390 


DIVOUCBS   GUANTED. 


A  :'■ 


There  was  no  very  important  business  before  the  legis 
laturo  at  this  session.  Considerable  ellbrt  was  made  to  get 
a  bill  through,  regulating  the  manulaeture  and  sale  of 
wine  and  distilled  spirituous  liquors.  After  considerable 
discussion  the  bill  passed  the  House,  and  was  vetoed  by 
the  Governor,  but  finally  was  passed  over  the  veto,  by  a 
two-thirds  vote,  this  being  the  first  successful  attempt  to 
legalize  the  sale  of  ardent  spirits  in  Oregon. 

Wheat  still  remaining  a  legal  tender.  Meek  introduced 
a  bill  for  its  inspection,  having  probably  learned  from  his 
experience  as  tax  collector,  that  the  people  were  sometimes 
inclined  to  cheat  the  government. 

The  Provisional  Government  had  not  provided  for  a  di- 
vorce law  suited  to  the  wants  of  the  country,  and  it  was 
therefore  only  by  special  act  of  the  legislature  that  divorces 
could  be  obtained.  Several  applications  had  been  made, 
in  the  form  of  bills  praying  for  a  release  from  the  bonds 
of  matrimony.  In  every  case  but  one  these  applications 
came  from  the  sterner  sex,  and  with  various  success.  In 
this  one  case,  the  applicant  had  failed  to  enlist  the  sympa- 
thies of  the  committee  to  whom  her  case  was  referred,  and 
there  was  every  prospect  that  the  legislature  would  ad- 
journ without  acting  upon  her  petition. 

in  this  emergency  the  lady  sought  out  our  hero,  who 
could  never  refuse  a  lady's  request,  and  entreated  him  to 
exert  himself  in  her  behalf,  to  procure  her  a  divorce  from 
her  lord  no  longer  loved.  Accordingly  the  bill  was  pre- 
pared, but  not  presented  to  the  House  until  the  last 
moment  before  the  close  of  the  session,  when  it  was  hurried 
over,  considered  engrossed,  read  a  third  time,  voted  on 
and  passed  in  a  very  brief  space  of  time,  to  the  entire  satis- 
faction of  both.  Meek  and  his  protege. 


-■' '  1.^ 


/  /.'; 


li 


THE   BEGINNING    OF    OUEGON   COMMEUCE. 


391 


CHAPTER     XXXIII. 


1847.  There  were  no  events  to  make  remarkable  the 
spring  ahd  summer  of  1847.  Oregon  had  a  promifc^ing 
commerce  growing  up  with  California,  the  principal  arti- 
cles of  export  being  flour  and  lumber.  In  the  month 
of  April  alone  there  went  out  of  the  Columbia  River 
1736  barrels  of  flour,  200,000  feet  of  lumber,  and  over 
200,000  shingles.  Of  this  amount  about  half  was  furnished 
by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  mills,  the  remainder  by 
the  mills  of  the  colony.  Letters  were  received  from  Cali- 
fornia, giving  notice  that  at  least  20,000  barrels  of  flour 
would  be  needed  in  that  country  in  the  fall.  Of  this  quan- 
tity the  colonists  expected  to  be  able  to  supply  one-half 
Money  now  began  to  come  into  the  colony,  and  the  fu- 
ture looked  promising. 

To  forward  the  cause  of  education,  the  Oregon  Printing 
Association  made  a  reprint  of  Wehster^s  Elementary  Sjiell- 
ing-Book,  without  so  much  as  saying  "by  your  leave"  to 
the  owners  of  the  copy-right,  and  probably  justified  the 
tlieft  upon  the  strength  of  the  adage  that  "necessity 
knows  no  law."  :.    •  :  ;     v-'-''     '  :    ■  ■Z'''}-^ 

Oregon  certainly  furnished,  in  her  colonial  condition,  an 
example  to  the  world  scarcely  second  in  interest  to  that 
of  the  Pilgrims  of  the  New  England  colonies,  such  was 
the  determined  patriotism,  the  temperance,  the  industry, 
and  the  wonderful  success  of  her  undertakings.  We  have 
attempted,  without  being  too  diffuse,  to  show  by  what  de- 


■t\ 


392 


THE   FOUNDATIONS   OP   A   NEW   STATE. 


grees,  assisted  by  those  whom  they  in  their  patriotism  felt 
bound  to  regard  as  foes,  they  proceeded  step  by  sUn  to- 
ward  the  goal  of  their  desires — the  founding  of  a  new 
state.  Divers  were  the  errors  they  committed,  and  roii4 
and  unpolished  was  the  material  out  of  which  the  edifice 
was  to  be  erected ;  nevertheless  it  was  well  and  strongly 
built,  the  foundation  being  civil  liberty,  the  superstructure 
temperance,  good  morals,  and  education.  These  things 
the  colonists  had  struggled  for.,  and  so  far  had  maintained, 
and  they  were  now  looking  for  their  reward.  That  Gov- 
ernment which  they  so  loved,  regarding  it  as  children  re- 
gard a  fond  parent,  and  to  which  they  had  addressed  so 
many  prayers  and  entreaties  in  all  these  years,  was  about 
to  take  them  under  it°  foctering  care,  and  to  accept  from 
their  hands  the  filial  gift  of  a  vigorous  young  state. 

In  the  suspense  under  which  they  for  the  present  re- 
mained, there  was  nothing  to  do  but  to  go  on  in  the  path 
of  duty  as  they  had  heretofore  done,  keeping  up  their 
present  form  of  government  until  it  was  supplanted  by  a 
better  one.  So  passed  the  summer  until  the  return  of  the 
"Glorious  Fourth,"  which,  being  the  first  national  anni- 
versarj'-  occuring  since  the  news  of  the  treaty  had  reached 
the  colony,  was  celebrated  with  proper  enthusiasm. 

It  chanced  that  an  American  ship,  the  Brutus,  Capi 
Adams,  from  Boston,  was  lying  in  the  Wallamet,  and  that 
a  general  invitation  had  been  given  to  the  celebrationists 
to  visit  the  ship  during  the  day.  A  party  of  fifty  or  sixty, 
including  Meek  and  some  of  his  mountain  associates,  had 
made  their  calculations  to  go  on  board  at  the  same  time, 
and  were  in  fact  already  alongside  in  boats,  when  Captain 
Adams  singled  out  a  boat  load  of  people  belonging  to  the 
mission  clique,  and  inviting  them  to  come  on  board,  or- 
dered all  the  others  off. 

This  was  an  insult  too  great  to  be  borne  by  mountain- 


AN   INDIGNITY    RESENTED. 


393 


nien,wlio  resented  it  not  only  for  themselves,  but  for  the  peo- 
ple's party  of  Americans  to  which  they  naturally  belonged. 
Their  ])lood  was  up,  and  without  stopping  to  deliberate, 
Meek  and  Newell  hurried  off  to  fetch  the  twelve-pounder 
;,iat  had  a  few  hours  before  served  to  thunder  forth  the 
ivjoiciiigs  of  a  free  people,  but  with  which  they  now  pur- 
posed to  proclaim  their  indignation  as  freeman  heinously 
insulted.  The  little  twelve-pound  cannon  was  loaclod  with 
roek,  and  got  into  range  with  the  offending  ship,  and  there 
is  little  doubt  that  Capt.  Adams  would  have  suifered  loss 
at  the  hands  of  the  incewsed  multitude,  but  for  the  timely 
interference  of  Dr.  McLaughlin.  On  being  informed  of 
liie  warlike  intent' ons  of  Meek  and  his  associates,  the  good 
Doctor  came  running  to  the  rescue,  his  white  hair  flowing 
back  from  his  noble  face  with  the  hurry  of  his  movements. 

'•Oh,  oh,  Mr.  Joe,  Mr,  Joe,  you  must  not  do  this!  in- 
deed, you  must  not  do  this  foolish  thing !  Come  now ; 
come  away.  You  will  injure  your  country,  Mr.  Joe.  How 
Clin  you  expect  thr.i  ships  will  como  hei  e,  if  they  arc  fired 
on?    Come  away,  come  away!" 

And  Meek,  ever  full  of  wagishness,  even  in  his  wrath, 
replied : 

'•Doctor,  it  is  not  that  I  love  the  Brutus  less,  but  my 
dignity  more." 

"Oh,  Shakespeare,  Mr.  Joe!  But  come  with  me ;  come 
with  me."  '"  "        •      •  *•  • 

And  so  the  good  Doctor,  half  in  authority,  half  in  kind- 
ness, persuaded  the  resentful  colonists  to  pass  by  the  favor- 
itism of  the  Boston  captain.         •"     :      .^    '":''  '  -. 

Meek  was  reelected  to  the  legislature  this  summer,  and 
swam  out  to  a  vessel  lying  down  at  the  mouth  of  the 
IVidlaniet,  to  get  liquor  to  treat  his  constituents;  from 
which  circumstance  it  may  be  inferred  that  while  Oregon 
was  remarkable  for  temperance,  there  were  occasions  on 


■;« 


394      FAILURE    OF    THE    TERRITORIAL   GOVERNMENT  BILL. 

which  conviviality  was  deemed  justifiable  by  a  portion  of 
her  people. 

Thus  passed  the  summer.  The  autumn  brought  news 
of  a  large  emigration  en  route  for  the  new  territory ;  but 
it  brought  no  news  of  good  import  from  Congress.  On 
the  contrrry  the  bill  providing  for  a  territorial  government 
for  Oregon  had  failed,  because  the  Organic  Laws  of  that 
territory  excluded  slavery  forevoi  from  the  country.  The 
history  of  its  failure  is  a  part  f  j  d  oei  of  the  record  of 
the  long  hard  struggle  of  the  sciUi  .o  oxtend  slavery  into 
the  United  States'  territories. 

One  crumb  of  comfort,  however,  accompanied  the  in- 
telligence of  this  disappointment ;  and  that  was  a  letter 
from  the  indefatigable  friend  of  Oregon,  Thomas  H.  Ben- 
ton, of  which  the  following  is  a  copy  :         .  ., 

Washington  City,  March,  1847. 

My  Friends  : — (For  such  I  may  call  many  of  you  from  personal  acquaint- 
ance, and  all  of  you  from  my  thirty  years  ilevotion  to  the  inter<!sts  of  yourciira- 
try) — I  think  it  riii;ht  to  make  this  communication  to  you  at  ih<.  pv(  sent  moment, 
when  the  adjotirnment  of  Congress,  without  passing  the  bi;'  f >"  your  govi'rn- 
ment  and  protection,  seems  to  have  left  you  in  a  state  of  ■:•  'dor  iH  ut  by  your 
mother  country.  But  such  is  not  the  case.  You  are  n  .  i  •;r'ic;)'dl  norwill 
you  be  denied  protection  unless  you  agrne  to  admit  slave. j.  .'  u  .lanoftLe 
South,  and  a  slaveholder,  tell  yon  this. 

The  Mouse  of  Representatives,  as  early  as  the  middle  of  January,  had  passed 
the  bill  to  give  you  a  Tei-ritorial  Government ;  and  in  that  bill  had  Hant'tiontil 
and  legalized  jour  Provisional  Organic  Act,  one  of  the  clauses  of  which  forcvir 
prohibited  the  existence  of  slavery  in  Oregon.  An  amendment  from  the  Sen- 
ate's (jonunittee,  to  which  this  bill  was  referred,  proposed  to  abrogate  that  pro- 
hibition ;  and  in  the  delays  and  vcxati'^"-  to  which  that  amendment  gave  rise, 
the  whole  bill  was  '.aid  upon  the  tabl''  ini*  jst  for  the  fossion.  Tliis  will  be  a 
great  disappointment  to  you  and  a  real  calamity,  alrei^  v  ve  years  without .... , 
or  legal  institutions  for  the  protection  of  life,  liberty),  inu  f/roperty,  ami  now 
doomed  to  wait  a  year  longer.  Tliis  is  a  strange  and  ■  ;• ' ..ii  Jcu.-*  condition! 
almost  incredible  to  contemplate,  and  most  critical  to  endure  I  a  colony  nf  free 
men,  four  thousand  miles  fr-m  *W  Metropolitan  government,  and  without  law 
or  government  to  p  (-serv.>  them  I  ^>>r.f  '!o  not  be  alarmed,  or  desperate.  You 
will  not  be  o\itlawed  for  not  admv':,  ,.  iavery.  Your  fundamental  act  against 
that  institution,  copied  from  the  Or^li nance  of  1787 — (the  work  of  tho  great 


s'MENT   BILL 

by  a  portion  of 

^  brought  news 

territory ;  but 

Congress.    On 

rial  government 

ic  Laws  of  that 

country.   The 

)f  the  record  of 

snd  slavery  into 

ipanied  the  in- 
lat  was  a  letter 
'homas  H.  Ben- 


?Y,  March,  1847. 

personal  acquaint- 
iterr!sts  of  yourcMiii- 
.  tbi.;  pn  sent  momen^ 
nil  io"  your  govcrii- 
■..•'.'iloPiK  nt  by  your 
■  ■1  :;:';Oii-d!  nor  will 
■..J.     .'   u  .lanoftLc 

January,  had  passed 
bill  had  sant'tioiiud 
ises  of  which  forever 
Inient  from  the  Sen- 
o  abrogate  that  pro 
nendmcnt  gave  rise, 
ion.  This  will  be  a 
<'  years  withoiu  m.., 
>yrapcrty,  and  now 
'-.jJouj  condition! 
re  I  a  colony  of  free 
at,  and  without  law 
or  desperate.  You 
arnental  act  against 
)  work  of  the  great 


LETTER   FROM   THOMAS   H.    BENTON. 


395 


men  of  t'lC  SoUTU,  in  the  great  day  of  the  South,  prohibiting  slavery  in  a 
TFiiiuToKY  fur  less  northerr  tlian  yours) — will  not  be  abrogated!  nor  is  that 
the  intention  of  the  prime  mover  of  the  amendment.  Upon  the  record  of  the 
JiKJieinrv  committee  of  the  Senate  is  the  author  of  that  amendment ;  but  not 
so  ;lie  fact !  It  is  only  mid-wife  to  it.  Its  author  is  the  same  mind  that  genera- 
ted the  "FiuE  Brand  Resolutions,"  of  which  I  send  you  a  copy,  .'nd  of 
wliich  the  amendment  is  the  legitimate  derivation.  Oregon  is  not  the  object. 
llie  most  rabitl  propagandist  of  slavery  cannot  expect  to  plant  it  on  tlie  shores 
of  the  Pacific,  in  the  latitude  of  Wisconsin  and  the  Lake  of  the  Woods.  A 
home  ai'itation,  for  election  and  disunion  purposes,  is  all  tnat  is  intended  by 
thrustiii"  this  fire-brand  question  into  your  bill !  and,  at  the  next  ses.sion,  when 
it  is  thriust  in  aga''.«,  we  will  scourge  it  out !  and  pass  your  bill  as  it  ought  to  be. 
1  promise  you  *his  in  the  name  of  the  South  as  well  as  of  the  North  ;  and 
the  event  will  not  deceive  me.  In  the  meantime,  the  President  will  give  you 
all  the  protection  which  exi:iting  laws,  and  detachments  cf  the  army  and  navy, 
can  enable  him  to  extend  to  you ;  and,  until  Congress  has  time  to  axit,  your 
liiends  must  rely  upon  you  to  continue  to  govern  yourselves,  as  you  have  here- 
tofore done,  under  the  provisions  of  your  own  voluntary  compact,  and  with  the 
jiislice,  harmony,  and  moderation  which  is  due  to  your  own  character  and  to 
the  honor  of  the  American  name. 

I  send  you,  by  Mr.  Shively,  a  copy  of  the  bill  of  the  late  session,  both  as  it 
passed  the  House  of  Representatives  and  as  proposed  to  be  amended  in  the 
Senate,  with  the  Senate's  vote  upon  laying  it  on  the  table,  and  a  copy  of  Mr. 
Calhoun's  resolutions — (posterior  in  date  to  the  amendniont,  but,  nevertheless, 
its  fathei ) — also  a  copy  of  your  own  Provis'onal  Organic  Act,  printed  by  order 
of  the  Sen.He ;  all  which  will  put  you  completely  in  possession  of  the  proceed- 
in;rs  of  Congress  on  your  Petition  for  a  Territorial  Government,  and  for  the 
protection  and  security  of  your  rights. 

In  conclusion.  I  have  to  assure  you  that  the  same  spirit  which  ha?  made  me 
the  friend  of  Oregon  for  thirty  years — wliich  led  me  to  denounce  the  joint  oc- 
cupation treaty  the  day  it  was  made,  an'I  to  oppose  its  renewal  in  1828,  and  to 
labor  for  its  abrogation  uitil  it  was  te*  minated ;  the  same  spirit  which  led  me 
to  reveal  the  grand  destiny  of  Orego.i  in  articles  written  in  1818,  and  to  sup- 
port every  measure  for  her  bei:?<it  rince — this  same  spirit  still  animates  me,  and 
will  continue  to  do  "O  while  I  live — which,  I  hope,  will  be  long  enough  to  see 
an  eni{X)rium  of  Asiatic  commerce  at  the  mouth  of  your  river,  and  a  stream  of 
Asiatic  trade  pouring  into  the  Valley  of  the  Mississippi  through  the  channel  of 
Oregon. 

Your  (riend  and  fellow  citizen, 

Thomas  H.  Benton. 

In  addition  to  this  valuable  bit  of  comfort  and  of  his- 
tory, another  letter,  written  by  James  Buchanan,  Secretary 
of  State,  and  conveying  President  Polk's  regrets  that  no 


396 


AFFRAY    BETWEEN   IMMIGRANTS  AND   INDIANS. 


more  had  been  done  for  Oregon,  was  presented  to  the 
colonists  by  its  bearer,  who  had  also  brought  the  commu- 
nication of  Senator  Benton.     This  gentleman  was  a  Mr. 
Sliively,  one  of  the  two  postmasters  appointed  for  Ore"on 
Territory.     Here  was  all  that  Congress,  after  much  effort 
had  been  able  to  accomplish — the  appropriation  of  money 
for  transporting  the  mails  to  Oregon  via  the  Isthmus  of 
Panama ;  the  establishment  of  a  post-office  at  Astoria,  and 
another  at  Oregon  City  ;  and  the  appointment  of  an  In- 
dian agent,  whose  inefficiency  was  patent  to  all  Oregon ! 
Mr.  Buchanan's  letter,  however,  contained  a  promise  of  a 
regiment  of  mounted  riflemen  to  protect  the  emigration; 
and  war  vessels  to  visit  Oregon  waters  as  often  as  practi- 
cable. /■«•      : 

Justly  dissatisfied,  but  not  inconsolable,  the  colony,  now 
that  hope  was  extinguished  for  another  season,  returned 
to  its  own  affairs.     The  immigration,  which  had  arrived 
early  this  year,  amounted  to  between  four  and  five  thou- 
sand.    An  unfortunate  affray  between  the  immigrants  and 
the  Indians  at  the  Dalles,  had  frightened  away  from  that 
station  the  Rev.  Father  Waller ;  and  Dr.  Whitman  of  the 
Waiilatpu  mission  had  purchased  the  station  for  the  Pres- 
byterian mission,   and  placed  a  nephew  of  his  in  charge. 
Although,  true  to  their  original  bad  character,  the  Dalles 
Indians  had  frequently  committed  theft  upon  the  passing 
emigration,   this  was  the  first  difficulty  resulting  in  loss 
of  life,  which  had  taken  place.     This  quarrel  arose  out  of 
some  thefts  committed  by  the  Indians,  and  the  unwise  ad- 
vice of  Mr.  Waller,  in  telling  the  immigrants  to  retaliate 
by  taking  some  of  the  Indian  horses.     An  Indian  can  see 
the  justice  of  taking   toll  from  every   traveler  passing 
through  his  country ;  but  he  cannot  see  the  justice  of  be- 
ing robbed  in  return ;  and  Mr.   Waller  had  been  long 
enough  among  them  to  have  known  this  savage  peculiar- 


THE    FIRST    DELEGATE    TO    CONGRESS. 


397 


ity,  111  the  skirmish  which  followed  this  act  of  retaliation, 
one  of  the  immigrants  was  killed,  two  seriously  wounded, 
and  several  others  driven  into  the  mountains  for  safety. 
The  chief  of  the  Wascopams,  or  Dalles  Indians,  was  killed, 
and  several  of  the  tribe  wounded.  Fearing  the  design 
of  the  immigrants  was  to  make  war  on  them,  they  re- 
moved back  into  the  mountains.  And  thus  was  inaugu- 
rated a  series  of  Indian  difficulties  which  har^assed  the 
inhabitants  of  the  territory  for  the  next  ten  years. 

Following  the  arrival  of  the  immigration  and  the  ex- 
tinguishment of  the  colony's  hopes  of  a  territorial  gov- 
ernment, a  movement  was  put  on  foot  among  the  mem- 
bers of  the  Mission  party,  to  send  a  delegate  to  Congress, 
charged  with  instructions  to  that  body  concerning  the 
wants  and  wishes  of  the  future  Territory.     The  gentle- 
man selected  by  the  Governor,  for  this  mission,  was  J.  Q. 
Thornton,  at  that  time  Chief  Justice  of  the  colony,  and  a 
man  of  undoubted  ability.     But  as  he  did  not  go  as  a  del- 
egate from  thf^  legislature,   and  only  by  appointment  of 
the  Governor,   with  the  sanction  of  the  Mission  party, 
there  was  considerable  dissatisfaction  with  the  action  of 
Governor  Abernethy,  and  the  legislature  passed  certain 
resolutions  expressive  of  its  sense  of  the  impropriety  of 
"secret  factions"  in  the  colony.     The  event  has  since 
proven  that  no  harm  was  done,  but  probably  considerable 
good,  by  the  extraordinary  delegate,  who  chanced  to  be 
in  Washington  at  a  critical  time  for  the  interests  of  Ore- 
gon. 

But  the  manner  in  which  the  delegate  was  equipped 
for  the  journey  is  unprecedented  in  the  annals  of  the 
whole  country.  Had  he  been  a  regularly  chosen  delegate 
from  the  legislature, — and  had  the  legislature  a  right  to 
send  a  delegate  to  Congress,  which  it  had  not, — there  was 
not  money  enough  in  the  colonial  treasury  to  have  paid 


hi 


I  m\ 


I  t'-' 


i 

^ 
I 

Ha,) 

398 


STRANDED  AT  SAN  JUAN — PROMPT  RESCUE. 


his  passage  out.  Nor  had  the  Governor  and  his  friends 
money  enough  for  this  purpose.  As  might  be  conjectured 
in  this  case,  extraordinary  measures  had  to  be  adopted  to 
raise  the  passage  money.  Subscriptions  were  taken  in 
any  and  every  thing  which  could  be  converted  into  cur- 
rency. One  contributer  gave  fifteen  barrels  of  flour ;  an- 
other a  little  money ;  another  furnished  an  outfit  of  cloth- 
ing ;  and  the  largest  amount  of  coin  raised  was  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  dollars. 

Passage  was  secured  on  the  bark  Whitton^  Captain 
Ghelston,  who  agreed  to  carry  to  New  York,  but  failed 
to  do  so.  At  San  Francisco  the  delegate  made  sale  of 
his  flour  and  other  commodities,  and  Captain  Ghelston 
obtained  so  favorable  an  opinion  of  the  profits  of  a  coast- 
ing trade,  that  when  he  had  arrived  at  San  Juan  on  the 
Mexican  coast,  he  threw  "ap  his  contract  to  carry  his  pas- 
senger CO  New  York,  leaving  him  to  proceed  as  best  he 
could.  Fortunately,  the  United  States  sloop  of  war 
Portsmouth,  Captain  Montgomery,  was  lying  at  this  port. 
She  was  a  part  of  the  squadron  which  had  been  guarding 
the  American  interests  in  the  Pacific  during  the  previous 
year ;  and  when  Captain  Montgomery  learned  the  situa- 
tion of  the  Oregon  representative,  he  took  the  liberty  of 
construing  his  instructions  to  "rescue  American  ministers 
in  foreign  ports"  from  difficulties  into  which  they  might 
have  fallen  through  various  causes,  to  mean  that  he  was 
to  convey  this  stranded  delegate  to  his  destination,  which 
he  immediately  proceeded  to  do.  Therefore  it  may  be 
reckoned  that  the  whole  transaction  of  appointing  and 
conveying  the  first  Oregon  delegate  to  Washington  was 
decidedly  unique,  as  well  as  somewhat  expensive. 

Finding  that  it  must  continue  yet  a  little  longer  to  look 
after  its  own  government  and  welfa.e,  the  colony  had 
settled  back  into  its  wonted  pursuits.     The  legislature 


FALLING    OF    THE    THUNDERBOLT. 


399 


had  convened  for  its  winter  session,  and  had  hardly  elected 
its  ofiicers  and  read  the  usual  message  of  the  Governor, 
before  there  came  another,  which  fell  upon  their  ears  like 
a  thunderbolt.  Gov.  Abernethy  had  sent  in  the  following 
letter,  written  at  Vancouver  the  day  before : 

Fort  Vancouvek,  Dec.  7, 1847, 

George  Ahernethy,  Esq. ; 

Sill ;— Having  received  intelligence,  last  night,  by  special  express  from 
Walla- AValla,  of  the  destruction  of  the  missionary  settlement  at  Waiilatpu,  by 
the  Cayuse  Indians  of  that  place,  we  hasten  to  communicate  the  particulars  of 
that  dreadful  event,  one  of  the  most  atrocious  which  darkens  the  annals  of  In- 
dian crime. 

Our  lamented  friend.  Dr.  Wliitman,  his  amiable  and  accomplished  lady,  with 
nine  other  persons,  have  fallen  victims  to  the  fury  of  these  remorseless  savages, 
who  api)ear  to  have  been  instigated  to  this  appalling  crime  by  a  horrible  sus- 
picion which  had  taken  possession  of  their  superstitious  minds,  in  consequence 
of  the  number  of  deaths  froui  dysentery  and  measles,  that  Dr.  Whitman  was 
silently  working  the  destruction  of  their  tribe  by  administering  poisonous  drugs, 
under  the  semblance  of  salutary  medicines. 

With  a  goodness  of  heart  and  benevolence  truly  his  own,  Dr.  Whitman  had 
been  laboring  incessantly  since  the  appearance  of  the  measles  and  dysentery 
among  his  Indian  converts,  to  relieve  their  sufferings ;  and  such  has  been  the 
reward  of  his  generous  labors. 

A  copy  of  Mr.  McBean's  letter,  herewith  transmitted,  will  give  you  all  the 
particulars  known  to  us  of  this  indescribably  painful  event. 

Mr.  Ogden,  with  a  strong  party,  will  leave  this  place  as  soon  as  possible  for 
Walla- Walla,  to  endeavor  to  prevent  further  evil ;  and  we  beg  to  suggest  to 
you  the  propriety  of  taking  instant  measures  for  the  protection  of  the  Rev.  Mr. 
Spalding,  who,  for  the  sake  of  his  family,  ought  to  abandon  the  Clear-water 
mission  without  delay,  and  retire  to  a  place  of  safety,  as  he  cannot  remain  at 
that  isolated  station  without  imminent  risk,  in  the  present  excited  and  irritable 
state  of  the  Indian  population.  .     ^ 

I  have  the  honor  to  be,  sir,  your  most  obedient  servant, 

JAMES  LCUGLAS. 


.-,.  / » 


■  .:i' 


■  ».t- 


i  T    ■■■< 


'  '-'7  \  * 


m 


,-^f,-'^'i- 


-/« 


400 


THE  UP-COUNTB,Y  INDIANS^ 


■  ■  i 
1 " 

■ ;  i'  -   ' 

1    ...  J 


CHAPTER    XXXIV. 


I 


1842-7.  Doubtless  the  reader  remembers  the  disquiet 
felt  and  expressed  by  the  Indians  in  the  upper  country  in 
the  years  1842-3,  when  Dr.  White  was  among  them,  lest  the 
Americans  should  take  away  their  lands  from  them  with- 
out payment.  For  the  time  they  had  been  quieted  by 
presents,  by  the  advice  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company^ 
and  by  the  Agent's  promise  that  in  good  time  the  United 
States  would  send  them  blankets,  guns,  ammunition,  food 
farming  implements,  and  teachers  to  show  them  how  to 
live  like  the  whites. 

In  the  meantime,  five  years  having  passed,  these  prom- 
ises had  not  been  kept.  Five  times  a  large  number  of 
whites,  with  their  children,  their  cattle,  and  wagons,  had 
passed  through  their  country,  and  gone  down  into  the 
Wallamet  Valley  to  settle.  Now  they  had  learned  that 
the  United  States  claimed  the  Wallamet  valley ;  yet  they 
had  never  heard  that  the  Indians  of  that  country  had  re- 
ceived any  pay  for  it. 

They  had  accepted  the  religion  of  the  whites  beheving 
it  would  do  them  good ;  but  now  they  were  doubtful. 
Had  they  not  accepted  laws  from  the  United  Stati  s  agent, 
and  had  not  their  people  been  punished  for  acts  which 
their  ancestors  and  themselves  had  always  before  commit- 
ted at  will  ?  None  of  these  innovations  seemed  to  do 
them  any  good :  th«'^y  were  disappointed.  But  the  whites, 
or  Bostons,  (meaning  the  Americans)  were  coming  more 


CAUSES   OF    THKm    DISQUIET. 


401 


and  more  every  year,  so  that  by-and-by  there  would  be 
all  Bostons  and  no  Indians. 

Oiico  they  had  trusted  in  the  words  of  the  Americans ; 
but  now  they  knew  how  worthless  were  their  promises. 
The  Americans  had  done  them  much  harm.  Years  before 
had  not  one  of  the  missionaries  suffered  several  of  their 
people,  and  the  son  of  one  of  their  chiefs,  to  be  slain  in 
his  company,  yet  himself  escaped?  Had  not  the  son  of 
another  chief  who  had  gone  to  California  to  buy  cattle, 
been  killed  by  a  party  of  Americans,  for  no  fault  of  his 
own  ?  Their  chief's  son  was  killed,  the  cattle  robbed  from 
his  party,  after  having  been  paid  for;  and  his  friends 
obliged  to  return  poor  and  in  grief 

To  be  sure,  Dr.  White  had  given  them  some  drafts  to 
be  used  in  obtaining  cattle  from  the  immigration,  as  a 
compensation  for  their  losses  in  California ;  but  they  could 
not  make  them  available ;  and  those  who  wanted  cattle 
had  to  go  down  to  the  Wallamet  for  them.  In  short, 
could  the  Indians  have  thought  of  an  American  epithet  to 
apply  to  Americans,  it  would  have  been  that  expressive 
word  humbug.  What  they  felt  and  what  they  thought, 
was,  that  they  had  been  cheated.  They  feared  greater 
frauds  in  the  future,  and  they  were  secretly  resolved  not 
to  submit  to  them.  ^  •« 

So  far  as  regarded  the  missionaries.  Dr.  Whitman  and 
his  associates,  they  were  divided ;  yet  as  so  many  looked 
on  the  Doctor  gs  an  agent  in  promoting  the  settlement  of 
the  country  with  whites,  it  was  thought  best  to  drive  him 
from  the  country,  together  with  all  the  missionaries.  Sev- 
eral years  before  Dr.  Whitman  had  known  that  the  Indians 
were  displeased  with  his  settlement  among  them.  They 
had  told  him  of  it :  they  har*  treated  him  with  violence ; 
they  had  attempted  to  outrage  his  wife ;  had  burned  his 
property;  and  had  more  recently  several  times  warned 
him  to  leave  their  country,  or  they  should  kill  him. 


pi 


4- 


-  +  - 


402 


THEIR   FEELINGS    TO  WARDS    DR.    WHITMAN. 


Not  that  all  were  angry  at  him  alike,  or  that  any  were 
personally  very  ill-disposed  towards  him.  Every tliiiiif 
that  a  man  could  do  to  instruct  and  elevate  these  sava"-e 
people,  he  had  done,  to  the  best  of  his  ability,  together 
with  his  wife  and  assistants.  But  he  had  not  been  able,  or 
perhaps  had  not  attempted,  to  conceal  the  fact,  that  he 
looked  upon  the  country  as  belonging  to  his  people,  rather 
than  to  the  natives,  and  it  was  this  fact  which  was  at  the 
bottom  of  their  "  bad  hearts  "  toward  the  Doctor.  So  often 
had  warnings  been  given  which  were  disregarded  by  Dr, 
Whitman,  that  his  friends,  both  at  Vancouver  and  in  the 
settlements,  had  long  felt  great  uneasiness,  and  often  be- 
sought him  to  remove  to  the  Wallamet  valley. 
*  But  although  Dr.  Whitman  sometimes  was  half  per- 
suaded to  give  up  the  mission  upon  the  representations  of 
others,  he  could  not  quite  bring  himself  to  do  so.  So  far 
as  the  good  conduct  of  the  Indians  was  concerned,  they 
had  never  behaved  better  than  for  the  last  two  years. 
There  had  been  less  violence,  less  open  outrage,  than  for- 
merly ;  and  their  civilization  seemed  to  be  progressing ; 
while  some  few  were  apparently  hopeful  converts.  Yet 
there  was  ever  a  whisper  in  the  air — "Dr.  Whitman  must 
die." 

The  mission  at  Lapwai  was  peculiarly  successful.  Mrs. 
Spalding,  more  than  any  other  of  the  missionaries,  had 
been  able  to  adapt  herself  to  the  Indian  character,  and  to 
gain  their  confidence.  Besides,  the  Nez  Perces  were  a 
better  nation  than  the  Cayuses ; — more  easily  controlled 
by  a  good  counsel ;  and  it  seemed  like  doing  a  wrong  to 
abandon  the  work  so  long  as  any  good  was  likely  to  result 
from  it.  There  were  other  reasons  too,  why  the  missions 
could  not  be  abandoned  in  haste,  one  of  which  was  the 
difficulty  of  disposing  of  the  property.     This  might  have 


«*-'l;'<f 


INFLUENCE    OF    THE    CATHOLIC    MISSIONARIES. 


403 


been  done  perhaps,  to  the  Catholics,  who  were  establish- 
ing missions  throughout  the  upper  country ;  but  Dr.  Whit- 
man would  never  have  been  so  false  to  his  own  doctrines, 
as  to  leave  the  field  of  his  labors  to  the  Romish  Church. 

Yet  the  division  of  sentiment  among  the  Indians  with 
regard  to  religion,  since  the  Catholic  missionaries  had  come 
among  them,  increased  the  danger  of  a  revolt :  for  in 
the  Indian  country  neither  two  rival  trading  companies, 
nor  two  rival  religions  can  long  prosper  side  by  side. 
The  savage  cannot  understand  the  origin  of  so  many  re- 
ligions. He  either  repudiates  all,  or  he  takes  that  which 
addresses  itself  to  his  understanding  through  the  senses. 
In  the  latter  respect,  the  forms  of  Catholicism,  as  adapted 
to  the  savage  understanding,  made  that  religion  a  danger- 
ous rival  to  intellectual  and  idealistic  Presbyterian  ism.  - 
But  the  more  dangerous  the  rival,  the  greater  the  firmness 
with  which  Dr.  Whitman  would  cling  to  his  duty. 

There  were  so  many  causes  at  work  to  produce  a  revo- 
lution among  the  Indians,  that  it  would  be  unfair  to  name 
any  one  as  the  cause.  The  last  and  immediate  provoca- 
tion was  a  season  of  severe  sickness  among  them.  The 
disease  was  measels,  and  was  brought  in  the  train  of  the 
immigration. 

This  fact  alone  was  enough  topr-'^ike  the  worst  pas- 
sions of  the  savage.  The  immigration  in  itself  was  a  suf- 
ficient offense ;  the  introduction  through  them  of  a  pesti- 
lence, a  still  weightier  one.  It  did  not  signify  that  Dr. 
Whitman  had  exerted  himself  night  and  day  to  give  them 
relief  Their  peculiar  notions  about  a  medicine-man  made 
it  the  Doctor's  duty  to  cure. the  sick;  or  made  it  the  duty  . 
of  the  relatives  of  the  dead  and  dying  to  avenge  their 
deaths.    ^-"^ --'"    ' '^ -*  ;.;.  ■--'■;    ,.::v-. 

Yet  in  spite  of  all  and  every  provocation,  perhaps  the 
fatal  tragedy  might  have  been  postponed,  had  it  not  been 


404 


THE   FATAL   TEST. 


for  the  evil  influence  of  one  Jo  Lewis,  a  halfbreed,  who 
had  accompanied  the  emigration  from  the  vicinity  of  Port 
Hall.  This  Jo  Lewis,  with  a  large  party  of  emigrants, 
had  stopped  to  winter  at  the  mission,  much  against  Dr. 
Whitman's  wishes ;  for  he  feared  not  having  food  enough 
for  so  many  persons.  Finding  that  he  could  not  prevent 
them,  he  took  some  of  the  men  into  his  employ,  and  among 
others  the  stranger  half-breed. 

This  man  was  much  about  the  house,  and  affected  to  re- 
late to  the  Indians  conversations  which  he  heard  between 
Dr.  and  Mrs.  Whitman,  and  Mr.  Spalding,  who  with  his 
little  daughter,  was  visiting  at  W'  itpu.  These  conver- 
sations related,  to  poisoning  the  ms,  in  order  to  get 
them  all  out  of  the  way,  so  that  the  white  men  could  en- 
joy their  country  unmolested.  Yet  this  devil  incarnate 
did  not  convince  his  hearers  at  once  of  the  truth  of  his 
statements ;  and  it  was  resolved  in  the  tribe  to  make  a 
test  of  Dr.  Whitman's  medicine.  Three  persons  were  se- 
lected to  experiment  upon ,  two  of  them  already  sick,  and 
the  third  quite,  well.  Whether  it  was  that  the  medicine 
was  administered  in  too  large  quantities,  or  whether  an 
unhappy  chance  so  ordered  it,  all  those  three  persons  died. 
Surely  it  is  not  singular  that  in  the  savage  mind  this  cir- 
cumstance should  have  been  deemed  decisive.  It  was 
then  that  the  decree  went  forth  that  not  only  the  Doctor 
and  Mrs.  Whitman,  but  all  the  Americans  at  the  mission 
must  die. 

On  the  2 2d  of  November,  Mr.  Spalding  arrived  at 
Waiilatpu,  from  his  mission,  one  hundred  and  twenty 
miles  distant,  with  his  daughter,  a  child  of  ten  years, 
bringing  with  him  also  several  horse-loads  of  grain,  to 
help  feed  the  emigrants  wintering  there.  He  found  the 
Indians  suffering  very  much,  dying  one,  two,  three,  and 
sometimes  five  in  a  day.     Several  of  the  emigrant  families. 


lih 


THE    LAST    INTEUVIEW. 


405 


also,  were  sick  with  racascls  and  the  dysentery,  which  fol- 
lowed the  disease.  A  child  of  cue  of  them  died  the  day 
following  Mr.  Spalding's  arrival. 

Dr.  Whitman's  family  consisted  of  himself  and  wife, 
a  young  man  named  Rodgers,  who  was  employed  as  a 
teacher,  and  also  studying  for  the  ministry,  two  young 
people,  a  brother  and  sister,  named  Bulee,  seven  orphaned 
children  of  one  family,  whose  parents  had  died  on  the 
road  to  Oregon  in  a  previous  year,  named  Sagor,  Helen 
Mar,  the  daughter  of  Joe  Meek,  another  little  half-breed 
gill,  daughter  of  Bridge r  the  fur-trader,  a  half-breed 
Spanish  boy  whom  the  Doctor  had  brought  up  from  in- 
foncy,  and  two  sons  of  a  Mr.  Mauson,  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company. 

Besides  these,  there  were  half-a-dozen  other  families  at 
the  mission,  and  at  the  saw-mill,  twenty  miles  distant,  five 
families  more — in  all,  forty-six  persons  at  Waiilatpu,  and 
fift(!en  at  the  mill,  who  were  among  those  who  suffered  by 
the  attack.  But  there  were  also  about  the  mission,  three 
others,  Joe  Lewis,  Nicholas  Finlay,  and  Joseph  Stanfield, 
who  probably  knew  what  was  about  to  tak(  place,  and 
may,  therefore  be  reckoned  as  among  the  conspirators. 

While  Mr.  Spalding  was  at  Waiilatpu,  a  message  came 
from  two  Walla- Walla  chiefs,  living  on  the  Umatilla  River, 
to  Dr.  Whitman,  desiring  him  to  visit  the  sick  in  their 
villages,  and  the  two  friends  set  out  together  to  attend  to 
the  call,  on  the  evening  of  the  27th  of  November.  Says 
Mr.  Spalding,  referring  to  that  time:  "The  night  was 
dark,  and  the  wind  and  rain  beat  furiously  upon  us.  But 
our  interview  was  sweet.  We  little  thought  it  was  to  be 
our  last.  With  feelings  of  the  deepest  emotion  we  called 
to  mind  the  fact,  that  eleven  years  before,  we  crossed  this 
trail  before  arriving  at  Walla- Walla,  the  end  of  our  seven 
months'  journey  from  New  York.      We  called  to  mind 


in 


I 


406 


NIGHT    VISIT    TO    THE    UMATILLA. 


the  high  hopes  and  thrilling  interests  which  had  been 
awakened  during  the  year  that  followed — of  our  success- 
ful labors  and  the  constant  devotedness  of  the  Indians  to 
improvement.  True,  we  remembered  the  months  of  deep 
solicitude  we  had,  occasioned  by  the  increasing  menacing 
dcuiaiids  ot  the  Indians  for  pay  for  their  wood,  their 
water,  their  air,  their  lands.  But  much  of  this  had  passed 
away,  and  the  Cayuses  were  in  a  far  more  encoiiragi-.ig 
condition  than  ever  before."'  Mr.  Spalding  further  re- 
lates that  himself  and  Dr.  Whitman  also  conversed  on  the 
danger  which  threatened  them  from  the  CathoHc  influeucp, 
"We  felt,"  he  says,  "that  the  present  sickness  afforded 
them  a  favorable  opportunity  to  excite  the  Indians  to 
drive  us  from  the  country,  and  all  the  movements  about 
us  seemed  to  indicate  that  this  would  soon  be  attempted, 
if  not  executed,"  Such  was  the  suspicion  in  the  minds 
of  the  Protestants.  Let  us  hope  that  it  was  not  so  well 
founded  as  they  believed. 

The  two  friends  arrived  laic  at  the  lodge  of  Stickas,  a 
chief,  and  laid  down  before  a  blazing  Ire  to  dry  their 
drenched  clothing.  In  the  morning  a  ^^ood  breakfast  was 
prepared  for  them,  consisting  of  betf,  vegetables,  and 
bread — all  of  which  showed  the  improvement  of  the  In- 
dians in  the  art  of  living.  The  day,  being  Sunday,  was 
observed  with  as  much  decorum  as  in  a  white  man's  Louse. 
After  breakfast.  Dr.  Whitman  crossed  the  river  to  visit 
the  chiefs  who  had  sent  for  him,  namely,  Tan-i-tan^  Five 
Groivs^  and  Yam-ha-wa-lis.  returning  about  four  o'clock 
in  the  afternoon,  saying  he  had  taken  tea  with  the  Cath- 
olic bishop  and  two  priests,  at  their  house,  which  belonged 
to  Tan-i-tan^  and  that  they  had  promised  to  visit  him  in  a 
short  time.  He  then  departed  for  the  mission,  feeling 
uneasy  about  the  sick  one?  at  home.  .  / 

Mr.   Spalding  remained  with  the  intention  of  visiting; 


J. 


''■^ 


STICKAS     WARNING — THE    DEATH-SONG. 


407 


ich  had  been 
r  our  success- 
he  Indians  to 
lonths  of  deep 
jing  menacing 
I'  wood,  their 
lis  had  passed 
e  encouraging 
ig  further  re- 
iversed  on  the 
lolic  influent^, 
mess  afforded 
he  Indians  to 
^rements  about 
be  attempted, 
in  the  minds 
as  not  so  well 

3  of  Sttchas,  a 

3  to  dry  their 

breakfast  was 

igetables,  and 

lent  of  the  In- 

J  Sunday,  was 

a  man's  Louse. 

river  to  visit 

\n4-tan^  Five 

t  four  o'clock 

with  the  Cath- 

hich  belonged 

visit  him  in  a 

ission,  feeling 


on  of  visitin 


the  sick  and  offering  consolation  to  the  dying.  But  he 
gt)on  discovered  that  there  was  a  weighty  and  uncomfort- 
able secret  on  the  mind  of  his  entertainer,  Stickas.  After 
much  questioning,  Stickas  admitted  that  the  thought  which 
troubled  him  was  that  the  Americans  had  been  "  decreed 
against"  by  his  people  ;  more  he  could  not  be  induced  to 
reveal.  Anxious,  yet  not  seriously  alarmed, — for  these 
warnings  had  been  given  before  many  times,-  -he  retired 
to  bis  couch  of  skins,  on  the  evening  of  the  29th,  being 
Monday — not  to  sleep,  however;  for  on  either  side  of 
him  an  Indian  woman  sat  down  to  chant  the  death-song 
—that  frightful  lament  which  announces  danger  and  death. 
On  being  questioned  they  would  reveal  nothing. 

On  the  following  morning,  Mr.  Spalding  could  no  longer 
remain  in  uncertainty,  but  set  out  for  Waiilatpu.  As  he 
mounted  his  horse  to  depart,  an  Indian  woman  placed 
her  hand  on  the  neck  of  his  horse  to  arrest  him,  and  pre- 
tending to  be  arranging  his  headgear,  said  in  a  low  voice 
to  the  rider,  "  Beware  of  the  Cayuses  at  the  mission," 
Now  more  than  ever  disturbed  by  this  intimation  that  it 
was  the  mission  which  was  threatened,  he  hurried  for- 
w.  d,  fearing  for  his  daughter  and  his  friends.  He  pro- 
ceoded  without  meeting  anv  one  until  within  sight  of  the 
lovely  Walla-Walla  valley,  imost  in  sight  of  the  mission 
itself,  when  suddenly,  at  a  wooded  spot  where  the  trail 
passes  through  a  little  hollow,  he  beheld  two  horsemen 
advancing,  whom  he  watched  with  a  fluttering  heart, 
lonf/ing  for,  ond  yet  di'eading,  the  news  which  the  very 
air  seemed  whispering. 

The  two  horsemen  proved  to  be  the  Ci'.Lholic  Vicar 
General,  Brouillet,  who,  with  a  party  of  priests  and  nuns 
had  arrived  in  the  country  only  a  few  months  previous, 
and  his  half-breed  interpreter,  both  of  whom  were  known 


.-i .  I-, 


y 


408 


MjiETING    WITH   BROUILLET. 


to  Mr.  Spalding.     They  each  drew  rein  as  they  approacli- 
ed,  Mr.  Spalding  immediately  inquiring  "what  news?" 

"  There  are  very  many  sick  at  the  Whitman  station " 
answered  Brouillet,  with  evident  embarrassment. 

"  How  are  Doctor  and  Mrs.  Whitman  ?"  asked  Spaldin^ 
anxiously. 

"  The  Doctor  is  ill — is  dead,"  added  the  priest  reluc- 
tantly. 

"And  Mrs.  Whitman?"  gasped  Spalding.  ■ '-  ' 

"  Is  dead  also.     The  Indians  have  killed  them." 

"  My  daughter  ?"  murmured  the  agonized  questioner, 

"  Is  safe,  with  the  other  prisoners,"  answered  Brouillet. 

"And  then,"  says  Spalding  in  speaking  of  that  moment 
of  infinite  horror,  when  in  his  imagination  a  picture  of  the 
massacre,  of  the  anguish  of  his  child,  the  sufiering  of  the 
prisoners,  of  the  probable  destruction  of  his  own  family 
and  mission,  and  his  surely  impending  fate,  all  rose  up 
before  him — "  I  felt  the  world  all  blotted  out  at  once,  and 
sat  on  my  horse  as  rigid  as  a  stone,  not  knowing  or  feeling 
anything." 

While  this  conversation  had  been  going  on  the  half- 
breed  interpreter  had  kept  a  sinister  watch  over  the  com- 
munication, and  his  actions  had  so  suspicious  a  look  that 
the  priest  ordered  him  to  ride  on  ahead.  When  he  had 
obeyed,  Brouillet  gave  some  rapid  instructions  to  Spald- 
ing ;  not  to  go  near  the  mission,  where  he  could  do  no 
good,  but  would  be  certainly  murdered ;  but  to  fly,  to 
hide  himself  until  the  excitement  was  over.  The  men  at 
the  mission  were  probably  all  killed ;  the  women  and 
children  would  be  spared ;  nothing  could  be  done  at  pres-, 
ent  but  to  try  to  save  his  own  life,  which  the  Indians  were 
resolved  to  take. 

The  conversation  was  hurried,  for  there  was  no  time  to 
lose,     Spalding  gave  his  pack-horse  to  Brouillet,  to  avoid 


MR.    SPALDING  S   NIGHT  JOURNEY. 


409 


ii 


ligiiio-  encumbered  by  it;  and  taking  some  provisions 
^vliich  the  priest  offered,  struck  off  into  the  woods  there 
to  hitle  until  dark.  Nearly  a  week  from  this  night  he  ar- 
rived at  the  Lapwai  mission,  starved,  torn,  with  bleeding 
foet  as  well  as  broken  heart.  Oblige  i  to  secrete  himself 
by  day,  his  horse  had  escaped  from  him,  leaving  him  to 
perforin  his  night  journeys  on  foot  over  the  sharp  rocks 
and  prickly  cactus  plants,  until  not  only  his  shoes  had 
'  ecn  worn  out,  but  his  feet  had  become  cruelly  lacerated. 
Ihe  constant  fear  which  had  preyed  upon  his  heart  of 
finding  his  family  murdered,  had  produced  fearful  havoc 
in  the  life-forces;  and  although  Mr.  Spalding  had  the  hap- 
piness of  finding  that  the  Nez  Perces  had  been  true  to 
Mrs.  Spalding,  defending  her  from  destruction,  yet  so 
great  had  been  the  first  shock,  and  so  long  cor  tinned  the 
strain,  that  his  nervous  -system  remained  a  wreck  ever 
afterward.  -     » 


?l 


i.^f: 


-y 


;;..t-. 


.'♦' 


410 


THE   TRAGEDY   AT   WAIILATPU. 


CHAPTER    XXXV. 


1847.  When  Dr.  Whitman  reached  home  on  that  Sun- 
clay  night,  after  parting  with  Mr.  Spalding  at  the  Umatilla, 
it  was  already  about  midnight ;  yet  he  visited  the  sick 
before  retiring  to  rest ;  and  early  in  the  morning  resumed 
his  duties  among  them.  An  Indian  died  that  mornino' 
At  his  burial,  which  the  Doctor  attended,  he  observed 
that  but  few  of  the  friends  and  relatives  of  the  deceased 
were  present  but  attributed  it  to  the  fear  which  the  In- 
dians have  of  disease. 

Everything  about  the  mission  was  going  on  as  usual. 
Quite  a  number  of  Indians  were  gathered  about  the  place; 
but  as  an  ox  was  being  butchered,  the  crowd  was  easily 
accounted  for.  Three  men  were  dressing  the  beef  in  the 
yard.  The  afternoon  session  of  the  mission  scliool  had 
just  commenced.  The  mechanics  belonging  to  the  station 
were  about  their  various  avocations.  Young  Biilee  was 
sick  in  the  Doctor's  house.  Three  of  the  orphan  children 
who  were  recovering  from  the  measles,  were  with  the 
Doctor  and  Mrs.  Whitman  in  the  sitting-room ;  and  also  a 
Mrs.  Osborne,  one  of  the  emigrants  who  had  just  got  up 
from  a  sick  bed    and  who  had  a  sick  child  in  her  arms. 

The  Doctor  liad  just  come  in,  wearied,  and  dejected  as  it 
was  possible  for  his  resolute  spir.'t  to  be,  and  had  seated 
himself,  bible  in  hand,  when  several  Indians  came  to  a  side 
door,  asking  permission  to  come  in  and  get  some  medicine. 
The  Doctor  rose,  got  his  medicines,  gave  them  out,  and 


J. 


me  on  that  Sun- 
at  the  Umatilla, 
'isited  the  sick 
orning  resumed 
that  morniiiff 
ed,  he  observed 
of  the  deceased 
'  which  the  In- 

ng  on  as  usual. 
ibout  the  place; 
owd  was  easily 

the  beef  in  the 
don  school  had 
g  to  the  station 
ung  Bulce  was 
)rphan  children 
were  with  the 
om ;  and  also  a 
lad  just  got  up 
in  her  arms, 
d  dejected  as  it 
md  had  seated 
3  came  to  a  side 
some  medicine. 

them  out,  and 


■.:M 


-Vfi-*-' 


COMMENCEMENT    OF    THE    MASSACRE. 


411 


sat  down  again.  At  that  moment  Mrs.  Whitman  was  in 
an  adjoining  room  and  did  not  see  what  followed.  Tarn- 
a-has,  a  chief  called  "  the  murderer,"  came  behind  the 
Doctor's  chair,  and  raising  his  tomahawk,  struck  the  Doc- 
tor in  the  back  of  the  head,  stunning  but  not  killing  him. 

Instantly  there  was  a  violent  commotion.  John  Sager, 
one  of  the  adopted  children,  sprang  up  with  his  pistol  in 
his  hand,  but  before  he  could  fire  it,  he  too  was  struck 
(lo^vn,  and  cut  and  hacked  shockingly.  In  the  meantime 
Dr.  Whitman  had  received  a  second  blow  upon  the  head, 
and  now  laid  lifeless  on  the  floor.  Cries  and  confusion 
filled  the  house. 

At  the  first  sound,  Mrs.  Whitman,  in  whose  ears  that 
whisper  in  the  air  had  so  long  sounded,  began  in  agony 
to  stamp  upon  the  fioor,  and  wring  her  hands,  crying  out, 
"Oh,  the  Indians,  the  Indians!"  At  that  moment  one  of 
the  women  from  an  adjoining  building  came  running  in, 
gasping  with  terror,  for  the  butchery  was  going  on  outside 
as  well,  and  Tam-a-has  and  his  associates  were  now  assist- 
ing at  it.  Going  to  the  room  where  the  Doctor  lay  insen- 
sible, Mrs.  Whitman  and  her  terrified  neighbor  dragged 
him  to  the  sofa  and  laid  him  upon  it,  doing  all  they  could 
to  revive  him.  To  all  their  inquiries  he  answered  by  a 
whispered  "no,"  probably  not  conscious  what  was  said. 

While  this  was  being  done,  tne  people  from  every  quar- 
ter began  to  crowd  into  the  Doctor's  house,  many  of  them 
wounded.  Outside  were  heard  the  shrieks  of  women,  the 
yells  of  the  Indians,  the  roar  of  musketry,  the  noise  of  fu- 
rious riding,  of  meeting  war-clubs,  groans,  and  every 
frightful  combination  of  sound,  such  as  only  could  be  heard 
at  such  a  carnival  of  blood.  Still  Mrs.  Whitman  sat  by 
her  husband's  side,  intent  on  trying  to  rouse  him  to  say 
one  coherent  word.  '':-''■'■:.■:■''■:..■  ^'-i'-' 

Nearer  and  nearer  came  the  struggle,  and  she  heard 


rm 


412 


THE   MURDER   OP    MRS.    WHITMAN. 


I 


„      -.  Fn.Tif 
,  ill 


R''  s 


some  one  exclaim  that  two  of  her  friends  were  being  m\a- 
dered  beneath  the  window.  Starting  up,  she  approached 
the  casement  to  get  a  view,  as  if  by  looking  she  could 
save ;  but  that  moment  she  encountered  the  fiendish  gaze 
of  Jo  Lewis  the  half-breed,  and  comprehended  his  guilt, 
"  Is  it  you,  Jo,  who  are  doing  this?"  she  cried.  Before  the 
expression  of  horror  had  left  her  lips,  a  young  Indian  who 
had  been  a  special  favorite  about  the  mission,  drew  up  his 
gun  and  fired,  the  ball  entering  her  right  breast,  when  she 
fell  without  a  groan. 

When  the  people  had  at  first  rushed  in,  Mrs.  Whitman 
had  ordered  the  doors  fastened  and  the  sick  children  re- 
moved to  a  room  up  stairs.  Thither  now  she  was  herself 
conveyed,  having  first  recovered  sufficiently  to  stagger  to 
the  sofa  where  lay  her  dying  husband.  Those  who  wit- 
nessed this  strange  scene,  say  that  she  knelt  and  prayed— 
prayed  for  the  orphan  children  she  was  leaving,  and  for 
her  aged  parents.  The  only  expression  of  personal  regret 
she  was  heard  to  utter,  was  sorrow  that  her  father  and 
mother  should  live  to  know  she  had  perished  in  such  a 
manner. 

In  the  chamber  were  now  gathered  Mrs.  Whitman,  Mrs, 
Hayes,  Miss  Bulee,  Catharine  Sager,  thirteen  years  of  age, 
and  three  of  the  sick  children,  besides  Mr.  Rogers  and  Mr 
Kimble.  Scarcely  had  they  gained  this  retreat  when  the 
crashing  of  windows  and  doors  was  heard  below,  and  with 
whoops  and  yells  the  savages  dashed  into  the  sitting-room 
where  Doctor  Whitman  still  lay  d3ring.  While  some 
busied  themselves  removing  from  the  house  the  goods  and 
furniture,  a  chief  named  Te-lau-ka-ikt,  a  favorite  at  the 
mission,  and  on  probation  for  admission  into  the  church, 
deliberately  chopped  and  mangled  the  face  of  his  still 
breathing  teacher  and  friend  with  his  tomahawk,  until  every 
feature  was  rendered  unrecognizable.     .   • 


i 


""^ 


THE    SUFFERINGS   OF   THE    CHmDREN. 


413 


The  children  from  the  school-house  were  brought  into 
the  kitchen  of  the  Doctor's  house  about  this  time,  by  Jo 
Lewis,  where,  he  told  them,  they  were  going  to  be  shot. 
Mr.  Spalding's  little  girl  Eliza,  was  among  them.  Under- 
standing the  native  language,  she  was  fully  aware  of  the 
terrible  import  of  what  was  being  said  by  their  tormen- 
tors. While  the  Indians  talked  of  shooting  the  children 
huddled  together  in  the  kitchen,  pointing  their  guns,  and 
yelling,  Eliza  covered  her  face  with  her  apron,  and  leaned 
over  upon  the  sink,  that  she  might  not  see  them  shoot  her. 
After  being  tortured  in  this  manner  for  some  time,  the 
children  were  finally  ordered  out  of  doors. 

While  this  was  going  on,  a  chief  called  Tamt-sahy^  was 
trying  to  induce  Mrs,  Whitman  to  come  down  into  the 
sitting-room. 

She  replied  that  she  was  wounded  and  could  not  do  so, 
upon  which  he  professed  much  sorrow,  and  still  desired 
her  to  be  brought  down,  "  If  you  are  my  friend  Tamt- 
sahy^  come  up  and  see  me,"  was  her  reply  to  his  profes- 
sions, but  he  objected,  sa3ring  there  were  Americans  con- 
cealed in  the  chamber,  whom  he  feared  might  kill  him. 
Mr.  Rogers  then  went  to  the  head  of  the  stairs  and  en- 
deavored to  have  the  chief  come  up,  hoping  there  might 
be  some  friendly  ones,  who  would  aid  them  in  escaping 
from  the  murderers.  Tamt-sak-y^  however,  would  not 
come  up  the  stairs,  although  he  persisted  in  saying  that 
Mrs.  Whitman  should  not  be  harmed,  and  that  if  all  would 
come  down  and  go  over  to  the  other  house  where  the  fami- 
lies were  collected,  they  might  do  so  in  safety. 

The  Indians  below  now  began  to  call  out  that  they  were 
going  to  burn  the  Doctor's  house.  Then  no  alternative 
remained  but  to  descend  and  trust  to  the  mercy  of  the 
savages.  As  Mrs.  Whitman  entered  the  sitting-room,  lean- 
ing on  one  arm  of  Mr.  Rogers,  who  also  was  wounded  in 


414 


THE   VICTIMS   TORTURED. 


the  head,  and  had  a  broken  arm,  she  caught  a  view  of  tlie 
shockingly  mutilated  face  of  her  husband  and  fell  faintinc 
upon  the  sofa,  just  as  Doctor  Whitman  gave  a  dying  gasp, 

Mr.  Rogers  and  Mrs.  Hayes  now  attempted  to  get  the 
sofa,  or  settee,  out  of  the  house,  and  had  succeeded  in 
moving  it  through  the  kitchen  to  the  door.  No  sooner 
did  they  appear  in  the  open  door-way  than  a  volley  of  balls 
assailed  them.  Mr.  Rogers  fell  at  once,  but  did  not  die 
immediately,  for  one  of  the  most  horrid  features  in  this 
horrid  butchery  was,  that  the  victims  were  murdered  by 
torturing  degrees.  Mrs.  Whitman  also  received  several 
gunshot  wounds,  lying  on  the  settee.  Francis  Stager,  the 
oldest  of  her  adopted  boys,  was  dragged  into  the  group  of 
dying  ones  and  shot  down. 

The  children,  who  had  been  turned  out  of  the  kitchen 
were  still  huddled  together  about  the  kitchen  door,  so 
near  to  this  awful  scene  that  every  incident  was  known  to 
them,  so  near  that  the  flashes  from  the  guns  of  the  Indians 
burnt  their  hair,  and  the  odor  of  the  blood  and  the  burn- 
ing powder  almost  suffocated  them. 

At  two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  the  massacre  had  com- 
menced. It  was  now  growing  dusk,  and  the  demons  were 
eager  to  finish  their  work.  Seeing  that  life  still  lingered 
in  the  mangled  bodies  of  their  victims,  they  finished  their 
atrocities  by  hurling  them  in  the  mud  and  gore  which  filled 
the  yard,  and  beating  them  upon  their  faces  with  whips 
and  clubs,  while  the  air  was  filled  with  the  noise  of  their 
shouting,  singing,  and  dancing — the  Indian  women  and 
children  assisting  at  these  orgies,  as  if  the  Bible  had  never 
been  preached  to  them.  And  thus,  after  eleven  years  of 
patient  endeavor  to  save  some  heathen  souls  alive,  perished 
Doctor  and  Mrs.  Whitman. 

In  all  that  number  of  Indians  who  had  received  daily 
kindnesses  at  the  hands  of  the  missionaries,   only  two 


ESCAPE    or    MR,    OSBORNE   AND   FAMILY, 


415 


showed  any  compassion.  These  two,  Ups  and  Madpool^ 
Walla- Wallas,  who  were  employed  by  the  Doctor,  took 
the  childi'cn  away  from  the  sickening  sights  that  sur- 
rouiuled  them,  into  the  kitchen  pantry,  and  there  in  secret 
tried  to  comfort  them. 

When  niglit  set  in  the  chihlren  and  families  were  all  re- 
moved to  the  building  called  the  mansion-house,  where  they 
spent  a  night  of  horror ;  all,  except  those  who  were  left  in 
Mrs.  Whitman's  chamber,  from  which  they  dared  not  de- 
scend, and  the  family  of  Mr.  Osborne,  who  escaped. 

On  the  first  assault  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Osborne  ran  into  their 
bedroom  which  adjoined  the  sitting-room,  taking  with 
them  tlicir  three  small  children.  Raising  a  plank  in  the 
floor,  Mr.  0.  quickly  thrust  his  wife  and  children  into  the 
.space  beneath,  and  then  following,  let  the  plank  down  to 
its  place.  Here  they  remained  until  darkness  set  in,  able 
t)  hear  all  that  was  passing  about  them,  and  fearing  to 
stir.  When  all  was  quiet  at  the  Doctor's  house,  they  stole 
out  under  cover  of  darkness  and  succeeded  in  reaching 
Fort  Walla- Walla,  after  a  painful  journey  of  several  days, 
or  rather  nights,  for  they  dared  not  travel  by  day. 

Another  person  who  escaped  was  a  Mr.  Hall,  carpenter, 
who  in  a  hand  to  hand  contest  with  an  Indian,  received  a 
wound  in  the  face,  but  finally  reached  the  cover  of  some 
bushes  where  he  remained  until  dark,  and  then  fled  in  the 
direction  of  Fort  Walla- Walla.  Mr.  Hall  was  the  first  to 
arrive  at  the  fort,  where,  contrary  to  his  expectations,  and 
to  all  humanity,  he  was  but  coldly  received  by  the  gentle- 
man in  charge,  Mr.  McBean.  ........      .....    ... 

Whether  it  was  from  cowardice  or  cruelty  as  some  al- 
leged, that  Mr.  McBean  rejoiced  in  the  slaughter  of  the 
Protestant  missionaries,  himself  being  a  Catholic,  can  never 
be  known.  Had  that  been  true,  one  might  have  supposed 
that  their  death  would  have  been  enough,  and  that  he 
27 


)h 


M 


Pli;' 


416 


ESCAPE  AND  FATE  OF  Mil.  HALL. 


might  have  slioltercd  a  wounded  man  floeinrr  for  his  life 
without  grudging  him  tliisatoni  of  coniiurt,  Unfortunntoiy 
for  Mr.  Mc'Bean's  reputation,  he  deehncd  to  grant  suchslnjl- 
tcr  willingly.  Mr.  Hall  remained,  however,  twelve  hours 
until  he  heard  a  report  that  the  women  and  chiklremvere 
murdered,  when,  knowing  how  unwelcome  he  waa,  and  be- 
ing in  a  htdf  distracted  state,  ho  consented  to  be  set  across 
the  Cohnnbia  to  make  his  way  as  best  he  could  to  the  vValla- 
met.  From  this  hour  he  was  never  seen  or  heard  from, 
the  manner  of  his  death  remaining  a  mystery  to  his  wife 
and  tlieir  family  of  five  children,  who  were  among  the 
prisoners  at  "Waiilatpu. 

When  Mr.  Osborne  left  the  mission  in  jhe  darkness,  he 
WIS  able  only  to  proceed  about  two  mikj,  L  >fore  Mrs.  Os- 
borne's strength  gave  way,  she  lately  having  been  con- 
fined by  an  untimely  birth ;  and  he  was  compelled  to  stop, 
secreting  himself  and  family  in  some  bushes.  Here  they 
remained,  suffering  with  cold,  and  insullieient  food,  having 
only  a  little  bread  and  cold  mush  which  they  had  found 
in  the  pantry  of  the  Doctor's  house,  before  leaving  it.  On 
Tuesday  night,  Mrs.  0.  was  able  to  move  about  three  miks 
more :  and  again  they  were  compelled  to  stop.  In  this 
way  to  proceed,  they  must  all  perish  of  starvation; 
therefore  on  Wednesday  night  Mr.  0.  took  the  second 
child  and  started  with  it  for  the  fort,  where  he  arrived  be- 
•fore  noon  on  Thursday. 

i'- Although  Mr.McBcan  received  him  with  friendliness  of 
manner,  he  refused  him  horses  to  go  for  Mrs.  Osborne  and 
his  other  children,  and  even  refused  to  furnish  food  to  re- 
relieve  their  hunger,  telling  him  to  go  to  the  Umatilla. 
and  forbidding  his  return  to  the  fort.  A  little  food  was  I 
given  to  himself  and  child,  who  had  been  fasting  since 
Monday  night.  Whether  Mr.  McBean  would  have  allowed 
;this  man  to  perish  is  uncertain :  but  certain  it  is  that  some 


CIIUEL  TUKATMKNT    OF   FPOITIVES. 


417 


I  ;i  0  or  cownrflly  irotive  made  liim  cxcocdiiigly  cruel  to 
l„)i!i  IImII  and  Osborne. 

While  Mr  Osborne  was  partaking  of  his  tea  and  cracker.*', 
flioro  arrived  at  the  fort  Mr.  Stanley,  the  artist,  whom  tlie 
reader  will  rcinoinber  having  met  in  the  mountains  several 
vcars  before.  When  the  case  became  known  to  him,  he 
(ilFcrcd  his  horses  immediately  to  go  for  Mrs.  Osborne. 
Shiiiiied  into  an  appearance  of  humanity,  Mr.  McBean  then 
fiiniishcd  an  Indian  guide  to  accompany  Mr.  0.  to  the 
rmatiliii,  where  he  still  insisted  the  fugitives  should  go, 
tlioiip:h  this  was  in  the  murderer's  country. 

A  little  meat  and  a  few  crackers  were  furnished  for  the 
supper  of  the  travelers ;  and  with  a  handkerchief  for  his 
hatless  iioad  and  a  pair  of  socks  for  his  child's  naked  feet, 
all  furnished  by  Mr.  Stanley,  Mr.  Osborne  set  out  to  return 
to  his  sufl'ering  wife  and  children.  He  and  his  guide  trav- 
eled rapidly,  arriving  in  good  time  near  the  spot  where 
lie  believed  his  family  to  be  concealed.  But  the  darkness 
liad  confused  his  recollection,  and  after  beating  the  bushes 
until  daylight,  the  unhappy  husband  and  father  was  about 
to  give  up  the  search  in  despair,  when  his  guide  at  length 
discovered  their  retreat. 

The  poor  mother  and  children  were  barely  alive,  hav- 
ing suffered  much  from  famine  and  exposure,  to  say  noth- 
ing of  their  fears.  Mrs.  Osborne  was  compelled  to  be 
tied  to  the  Indian  in  order  to  sit  her  horse.  In  this  con- 
dition the  miserable  fugitives  turned  toward  the  Umatilla, 
in  obedience  to  the  command  of  McBean,  and  were  only 
saved  from  being  murdered  by  a  Cayuse  by  the  scornful 
words  of  the  guide,  who  shamed  the  murderer  from  his 
purpose  of  slaughtering  a  sick  and  defenceless  family. 
At  a  Canadian  farm-house,  where  they  stopped  to  change 
horses,  they  were  but  roughly  received  ;  and  learning 
here  that  Tamt-sahy's  lodge  was  near  by,  Mrs.  Osborne 


\  i\ 


mm 


418 


KINDNESS   OF    STICK  AS. 


■MM& 


refused  to  proceed  any  farther  toward  the  Umatilla.  She 
said,  "  I  doubt  if  I  can  live  to  reach  the  Umatilla ;  and  if 
I  must  die,  I  may  as  well  die  at  the  gates  of  the  Fort." 
Let  us.  then,  turn  back  to  the  Fort." 

To  this  the  guide  assented,  saying  it  was  not  safe  goinf 
among  the  Cayuses.  The  I'ttle  party,  quite  exhausted, 
reached  Walla-Walla  about  ten  o'clock  at  nigh',  and  were 
at  once  admitted.  Contrary  to  his  former  course,  Mr. 
McBean  now  ordered  a  hre  made  to  warm  the  benumbed 
travelers,  ^vho,  after  being  made  tolerably  comfortable, 
were  placed  in  a  secret  room  of  the  fort.  Again  Mr. 
Osborne  was  importuned  to  go  away,  down  to  the  Walla- 
met,  Mr.  McBean  promising  to  take  care  )f  bis  family 
and  furnish  him  an  outfit  L  he  would  do  so.  Upon  being 
asked  to  furnish  a  ])oat,  and  Indians  to  man  it,  in  order 
that  the  family  might  accompany  him,  he  replied  that  his 
Indians  refused  to  go. 

From  all  this  reluctance,  not  only  on  the  part  of  Mc- 
Bean, but  of  the  Indians  also,  to  do  any  act  which  ap- 
peared like  befriending  the  ximericans,  it  would  appear 
that  there  was  a  very  general  fear  of  the  Cayuse  Indians, 
and  a  belief  that  they  wore  about  to  inaugurate  a  general 
war  upon  the  Americans,  and  their  friends  and  allies.  Mr 
Osborne,  hovv'Gvor,  refused  to  leave  his  family  behind,  and 
Mr.  M  Bean  was  forced  to  let  him  remain  until  relief 
came.  When  it  did  come  at  last,  in  the  shape  of  Mr. 
Ogden's  party,  Stickas^  the  chief  who  had  wp.rned  Mr. 
Spalding,  showed  his  kind  feeling  for  the  su:Terers  by 
removing  his  own  cap  and  placing  it  on  Mr.  Osborne's 
head,  and  by  tying  a  handkerchief  over  the  ears  of  Mr. 
Osborne's  little  son,  as  he  said,  "  to  keep  him  warm,  going 
down  the  river."  Sadly  indeed,  did  the  little  ones  who 
sulfered  by  the  massacre  at  Waiilatpu,  stand  in  need  of 
any  Christian  kindness.  v' 


HOKllORS   OF   THE    WAIILATPU   MABSACRB. 


419 


CHAPTER    XXXYI. 


1847.  A  FULL  account  of  the  horrors  of  the  Waii- 
latpu  massacre,  together  with  the  individual  sufferings  of 
the  captives  v/hose  lives  were  spared,  would  fill  a  volume, 
and  be  harvovving  to  the  reader  ;  therefore,  only  so  much 
of  it  will  be  given  here  as,  from  its  bearing  upon  Oregon 
history,  is  important  to  our  narrative. 

The  day  following  the  massacre,  being  Tuesday,  was 
the  day  on  which  Mr.  Spalding  was  met  and  warned  not 
to  go  to  the  mission,  by  the  Vicar  General,  Brouillet. 
Happening  at  the  mission  on  that  day,  and  finding  the 
bodies  of  tho  'victims  still  unburied,  Brouillet  had  them 
hastily  interred  before  leaving,  if  interment  it  could  be 
called  which  left  them  still  a  prey  to  wolves.  The  reader 
of  this  chapter  of  Oregon  history  will  always  be  very  much 
puzzled  to  understand  by  what  means  the  Catholic  priests 
procured  their  perfect  ex(3mption  from  harm  during  this 
time  of  terror  to  the  Americans.  Was  it  that  they  were 
French,  and  that  they  came  into  the  country  only  0;S  mis- 
sionaries of  a  religion  adapted  to  the  savage  mind,  and 
not  as  settlers  ?  Was  it  at  all  owing  to  the  fact  that  they 
were  celibates,  with  no  families  to  excite  jealous  feelings 
of  comparison  in  the  minds  of  their  converts  ? 

Through  a  long  and  bitter  war  of  words,  which  fol- 
lowed the  massacre  at  Waiilatpu,  terrible  sins  were  charged 
upon  the  priests — no  less  than  inciting  the  Indians  to  the 
murder  of  the  Protestants,  and  winkiue:  at  the  atrocities  of 


420 


EXEMPTION    OF   THE    CATHOLIC'3. 


every  kind  committed  by  the  savages.  Whether  thpv 
feared  to  enter  into  the  quarrel,  and  were  restrained  from 
showing  sympathy  solely  by  this  fear,  is  a  question  only 
themselves  ean  determine.  Certain  it  is,  that  they  pre- 
served a  neutral  position,  when  to  be  neutral  was  to  seer,!, 
if  not  to  be,  devoid  of  human  sympathies.  That  the 
event  would  have  happened  without  any  other  provoca- 
tion than  such  as  the  Americans  furnished  by  their  own 
reckless  disregard  of  Indian  prejudices,  seems  evident. 
The  question,  and  the  only  question  which  is  suggested 
by  a  knowledge  of  all  the  circumstances,  is  whether  the 
event  was  helped  on  by  an  intelligent  outside  influence. 

It  was  quite  natural  that  the  Protestants  should  wonder 
at  the  immunity  from  danger  which  the  priests  enjoyed; 
and  that,  not  clearly  seeing  the  reason,  they  should  sus- 
pect them  of  collusion  with  the  Indians.  It  was  natural, 
too,  for  the  sufferers  from  the  massacre  to  look  for  some 
expression  of  sympathy  from  any  and  all  denominations 
of  Christians  ;  and  that,  not  receiving  it,  they  should  have 
doubts  of  the  motives  which  prompted  such  reserve. 
The  story  of  that  time  is  but  an  unpleasant  record,  and 
had  best  be  lightly  touched  upon.  :  .  i 

The  work  of  death  and  destruction  did  not  close  with 
the  first  day  at  Waiilatpu.  Mr.  Kimble,  who  had  re- 
mained in  the  chamber  of  the  Doctor's  house  all  night, 
had  suffered  much  from  the  pain  of  his  broken  arm.  On 
Tuesday,  driven  desperate  by  his  own  sufferings,  and  those 
of  the  three  sick  children  with  him,  one  of  whom  was  the 
little  Helen  Mar  Meek,  he  resolved  to  procure  some  water 
from  the  stream  which  ran  near  the  house.  But  he  had 
not  proce-cded  more  than  a  few  rods  before  he  was  shot 
down  and  killed  instantly.  The  same  day,  a  Mr.  Young, 
from  the  saw-mill,  was  also  killed.  In  the  course  of  the 
week,  Mr.  Bulee,  who  was  sick  over  at  the  mansion,  was 
brutally  murdered. 


FATE  OF  THE  YOUNG  WOMEN. 


421 


(I 


Meanwhile  the  female  captives  and  children  were  en- 
during such  agony  as  seldom  falls  to  the  lot  of  humanity 
to  sailer.  Compelled  to  work  for  the  Indians,  their  feel-. 
iii"-s  were  continually  harrowed  up  by  the  terrible  sights 
wliic'li  everywhere  met  their  eyes  in  going  back  and  forth 
between  the  houses,  in  carrying  water  from  the  stream,  or 
moving  in  any  direction  whatever.  For  the  dead  were 
not  removed  until  the  setting  in  of  decay  made  it  neces- 
sary to  the  Indians  themselves. 

The  goods  belonging  to  the  mission  were  taken  from 
tlie  store-roc>m,  and  the  older  women  ordered  to  make  them 
uiMnto  clothing  for  the  Indians.  The  b  lildings  were  plun- 
dered of  everything  which  the  Indiars  coveted;  all  the 
rest  of  their  contents  that  could  not  be  made  useful  to 
themselves  were  destroyed.  Those  of  the  captives  who 
were  sick  were  not  allowed  proper  attention,  and  in  a  day 
or  two  Helen  Mar  Meek  died  of  neglect. 

Thus  passed  four  or  five  days.  On  Saturday  a  new 
horror  was  added  to  the  others.  The  savages  began  to 
carry  off  the  young  women  for  wives.  Three  were  thus 
dragged  away  to  Indian  lodges  to  suffer  tortures  worse 
than  death.  One  young  girl,  a  daughter  of  Mr.  Kimble, 
was  taken  possession  of  by  the  murderer  of  her  father, 
who  took  daily  delight  in  reminding  her  of  that  fact,  and 
when  her  sorrow  could  no  longer  be  restrained,  only 
threatened  to  exchange  her  for  another  young  girl  who 
was  also  a  wife  by  compulsion. 

Miss  Bulee,  the  eldest  of  the  young  women  at  the  mission, 
and  who  was  a  toacher  in  the  mission  school,  was  taken  to 
the  Umatilla,  to  the  lodge  of  Five- Crows.  As  has  before 
heen  related,  there  was  a  house  on  the  Umatilla  belonging 
to  Tan-i-tan^  in  which  were  residing  at  this  time  two  Cath- 
olic priests — the  Vicar-General  Brouillet,  and  Blanchet, 
Bishop  of  Walla- Walla.     To  this  house  Miss  Bulee  applied 


422 


MISS    BULEE    AND    THE   PKIESTS. 


for  protection,  and  was  refused,  whether  from  fear,  or  from 
the    motives   subsequently   attributed  to  them  by  some 
Protestant  writers  in   Oregon,  is  not  known  to  any  but 
themselves.     The  only  thing  certain  about  it  is,  that  Miss 
Bulce   was   allowed  to  be  violently  dragged  from  their 
presence   every  night,  to  return  to  them  weeping  in  the 
morning,  and  to  have  her  entreaties  for  their  assistance 
answered  by  assurances  from  them  tlia^  the  wisest  course 
for  her  was  to  submit.     And  this  continued  for  more  thim 
two  weeks,  until  the  news  of  Mr.  Ogden's  arrival  at  Walla- 
Walla  became  known,  when  Miss  Bulee  was  told  that  if 
Five-  Crows  would  not  allow  her  to  remain  at  their  house 
altogether,  she  must  remain  at  the  lodge  of  Five-Cmos 
without  coming  to  their  house  at  all,  well  knowing  what 
Five- Crows  would  do,  but  wishing  to  have  Miss  Bulee's 
action  seem  voluntary,  from  shame  perhaps,  at  their  own 
cowardice.     Yet  the  reason  they  gave  ought  to  go  for  all 
it  is  worth — that   they   beiug  priests  could  not  have  a 
woman  about  their  house.     In  this  unhappy  situation  did 
the  female  captives  spend  three  most  miserable  weeks. 

In  the  meantime  the  mission  at  Lapwai  had  been  broken 
up,  but  not  destroyed,  nor  had  any  one  suffered  death  as 
was  at  first  feared.  The  intelligence  of  the  massacre  at 
Waiilatpu  was  first  conveyed  to  Mrs.  Spalding  by  a  Mr. 
Camfield,  who  at  tht3  breaking  out  of  the  massacre,  fled 
with  his  wife  and  children  to  a  small  room  in  the  attic  of 
the  mansion,  from  the  window  of  which  he  was  able  to 
behold  the  scenes  which  followed.  When  night  came  Mr. 
Camfield  contrived  to  elude  observation  and  descend  into 
the  yard,  where  he  encountered  a  French  Canadian  long 
in  the  employ  of  Dr.  Whitman,  and  since  suspected  to 
have  been  privy  to  the  plan  of  the  murders.  To  him  Mr. 
Camfield  confided  his  intention  to  escape,  and  obtained  a 
promise  that  a  horse  should  be  brought  to  a  certain  place 


J* 


ESCAPE    OF    MR.    CAMFIELD. 


423 


at  a  certain  time  for  his  use.  But  the  Canadian  failing  to 
appear  with  his  horse,  Mr.  C.  set  out  on  foot,  and  under 
cover  of  night,  in  the  direction  of  the  Lapwai  mission. 
He  arrived  in  the  Nez  Perce  country  on  Thursday.  On 
the  following  daj^  he  came  upon  a  camp  of  these  people, 
and  procured  from  them  a  guide  to  Lapwai,  without,  how- 
ever, speaking  of  what  had  occurred  at  Waiilatpu. 

The  caution  of  Mr.  Camfield  relates  to  a  trait  of  Indian 
character  which  the  reader  of  Indian  history  must  bear  in 
mind,  that  is,  the  close  relationship  and  identity  of  feeling 
of  allied  tribes.  Why  .iC  did  not  inform  the  Nez  Perces 
of  the  deed  done  by  their  relatives,  the  Cayuses,  was  be- 
cause in  that  case  he  would  have  expected  them  to  have 
sympathized  with  their  allies,  even  to  the  point  of  making 
him  a  prisoner,  or  of  taking  his  life.  It  is  this  fact  concern- 
ing the  Indian  character,  which  alone  furnishes  an  excuse 
for  the  conduct  of  Mr.  McBean  and  the  Catholic  priests. 
Upon  it  Mr.  Camfield  acted,  making  no  sign  of  fear,  nor 
betraying  any  knowledge  of  the  terrible  matter  on  his 
mind  to  the  Nez  Perces. 

On  Saturday  afternoon  Mr.  C.  arrived  at  Mrs.  Spalding's 
house  and  dismissed  his  guide  with  the  present  of  a  buf- 
flilo  robe.  When  he  was  alone  with  Mrs.  Spalding  he 
told  his  unhappy  secret.  It  was  then  that  the  strength 
and  firnniess  of  Mrs.  Spalding's  character  displayed  itself 
ill  her  decisive  action.  Well  enough  she  knew  the  close 
bond  between  the  Nez  Perces  and  Cayuses,  and  also  the 
treachery  of  the  Indian  character.  But  she  saw  that  if 
affairs  were  left  to  shape  themselves  as  Mr.  Camfield 
entreated  they  might  be  left  to  do,  putting  off  the  evil 
day, — that  when  the  news  came  from  the  Cayuses,  there 
Avould  be  an  outbreak.   '      ■       .  .    ■•-;'     ,,^-.' 

The  only  chance  of  averting  this  danger  was  to  inform 
tho  chiefs  most  attached  to  her,  at  once,  and  throw  herself 


i: 


!^ 


Bi\h 


I     . 


424 


IIEIIOISM    OF    MRS.    SPALDING. 


and  her  family  upon  their  mercy.  Her  resohition  was 
taken  not  an  hour  too  soon.  Two  of  the  chiefs  most  re- 
lied upon  happened  to  be  at  the  place  that  very  afternoon 
one  of  whom  was  called  Jacobs  and  the  other  Engh.  To 
these  two  Mrs.  Spalding  confided  the  news  without  delay, 
and  took  counsel  of  them.  According  to  her  hopes,  they 
assumed  the  responsibility  of  protecting  her.  One  of 
them  went  to  inform  his  camp,  and  give  them  orders  to 
stand  by  Mrs.  S.,  while  the  other  carried  a  note  to  Mr. 
Craig,  one  of  our  Rocky  Mountain  acquaintances,  who 
lived  ten  miles  from  the  mission.      ,.  ...  .•  t  i  iv.  ,, 

Jacob  and  Eagle^  with  two  other  friendly  chiefs,  deci- 
ded that  Mrs.  S.  must  go  to  their  camp  near  Mr.  Craig's; 
because  in  case  the  Cayuses  came  to  the  mission  as  was  to 
be  expected,  she  would  be  safer  with  them.  Mrs.  S.  how- 
ever would  not  consent  to  make  the  move  on  the  Sabbath, 
but  begged  to  be  allowed  to  remain  quiet  until  Monday. 
Late  Saturday  evening  Mr.  Craig  came  down ;  and  Mrs. 
Spalding  endeavored  with  his  assistance  to  induce  the  In- 
dians to  carry  an  express  to  Cimikain  in  the  country  of 
the  Spokanes,  where  Messrs.  Walker  and  Eells  had  a  sta- 
tion. Not  an  Indian  could  be  persuaded  to  go.  An  ef- 
fort, also,  was  made  by  the  heroic  and  suffering  wife  and 
mother,  to  send  an  express  to  Waiilatpu  to  learn  the  fate 
of  her  daughter,  and  if  possible  of  her  husband.  But  the 
Indians  were  none  of  them  inclined  to  go.  They  said, 
without  doubt  all  the  women  and  children  were  slain. 
That  Mr.  Spalding  was  alive  no  one  believed.    ;  v  rk 

The  reply  of  Mrs.  S.  to  thoir  objections  was  that  she 
could  not  believe  that  they  were  her  friends  if  they  would 
not  undertake  this  journey,  for  the  relief  of  her  feehngs 
under  such  circumstances.  At  length  Eagle  consented  to 
go ;  but  so  much  opposed  were  the  others  to  having  any- 
thing done  which  their  relations,  the  Cayuses,  might  be 


''■^ 


THE    LAPWAI    MISSION   PLUNDERED. 


425 


(]i<i)loasod  with,  that  it  was  nearly  twenty-four  hours  be- 
fore tAujh  got  leave  to  go. 

On  Monday  morning  a  Nez  Perce  arrived  from  Waii- 
latpuwith  the  news  of  what  the  Cayuses  had  done.  With 
liim  were  a  number  of  Indians  from  the  camp  where  Mr. 
Camfield  had  stopped  for  a  guide,  all  eager  for  plunder,  and 
for  murder  too,  had  not  they  found  Mrs.  Spalding  pro- 
tected by  several  chiefs.  Her  removal  to  their  camp 
probiibly  saved  her  from  the  fate  of  Mrs.  Whitman. 

Among  those  foremost  in  plundering  the  mission  build- 
in  n-.s  at  Lapwai  were  some  of  the  hitherto  most  exemplary 
Indians  among  the  Nez  Perces.  Even  the  chief,  first  in 
authority  after  Ellis,  who  was  absent,  was  prominent  in 
tliese  robberies.  For  eight  years  had  this  chief,  Joseph, 
lieen  a  member  of  the  church  at  Lapwai,  and  sustained  a 
good  reputation  during  that  time.  How  bitter  must  have 
been  the  feelings  of  Mrs.  Spalding,  who  had  a  truly  de- 
voted missionary  heart,  when  she  beheld  the  fruit  of  her 
life's  labor  turned  to  ashes  in  her  sight  as  it  wab  by  the 
conduct  of  Joseph  and  his  family. 

Shortly  after  the  removal  of  Mrs.  Spalding,  and  the  pil- 
laging of  the  buildings,  Mr.  Spalding  arrived  at  Lapwai 
from  his  long  and  painful  journey  during  which  he  had 
wandered  much  out  of  his  way,  and  suffered  many  things. 
His  appearance  was  the  signal  for  earnest  consultations 
among  the  Nez  Perces  who  were  not  certain  that  they 
might  safely  give  protection  to  him  without  the  consent 
of  the  Cayuses.  To  his  petition  that  they  should  carry  a 
letter  express  to  Fort  Colville  or  Fort  Walla- Walla,  they 
would  not  consent.  Their  reason  for  refusing  seemed  to 
bo  a  fear  that  such  a  letter  might  be  answered  by  an 
aimed  body  of  Americans,  who  would  come  to  avenge  the 
deaths  of  their  countrymen.  ■•    . ;    >     >     .>     ,    .* 

To  deprive  them  of  this  suspicion,  Mr.  Spalding  told 


.1,^-: 


426 


MR.    SPALDING  S    ARRIVAL   AT    LAPWAI. 


thorn  that  as  he  had  been  robbed  of  everything,  he  had 
no  means  of  paying  tlicm  for  their  services  to  his  family, 
and  that  it  was  necessary  to  write  to  Walla- Walla  for 
blankets,  and  to  the  Umatilla  for  his  horses.  He  assured 
them  that  he  would  write  to  his  countrymen  to  keep  qu'ot 
and  that  they  had  nothing  to  fear  from  the  Americans, 
The  truth  was,  however,  that  he  had  forwarded  through 
Bi'ouillet,  a  letter  to  Gov.  Abernethy  asking  for  help 
which  could  only  come  into  that  hostile  country  armed 
and  equipped  for  war.  And  it  was  fearing  this,  that  the 
Indians  detained  him  and  his  fiimily  as  hostages  until  it 
became  apparent  what  the  Americans  meant  to  do. 

Happily  for  the  captives  both  at  Waiilatpu  and  else- 
where, the  prompt  action  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company 
averted  any  collision  between  the  Indians  and  Americans, 
until  after  they  had  been  ransomed.  .   '   * 

Late  in  the  month  of  December  there  arrived  in  Ore- 
gon City  to  be  delivered  to  the  governor,  sixty-two  cap- 
tives, bought  from  the  Cay  uses  and  Nez  Perces  by  Hud- 
son's Bay  blankets  and  goods ;  and  obtained  at  that  price 
by  Hudson's  Bay  influence.  "No  other  power  on  earth," 
says  Joe  Meek,  the  American,  "could  have  rescued  those 
prisoners  from  the  hands  of  the  Indians;"  and  no  man 
better  than  Mr,  Meek  understood  the  Indian  character, 
or  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  power  over  them. 

The  number  of  victims  to  the  Waiilatpu  massacre  was 
fourteen.  None  escaped  who  had  not  to  mourn  a  father, 
brother,  son,  or  friend.  If  "the  blood  of  the  martyrs  is 
the  seed  of  the  church,"  there  ought  to  arise  on  the  site 
of  Waiilatpu  a  generation  of  extraordinary  piety.  As  for 
the  people  for  whom  a  noble  man  and  woman,  and  num- 
bers of  innocent  persons  were  sacrificed,  they  have  re- 
turned to  their  traditions ;  with  the  exception  of  the  Nez 
Perces,  who  under  the  leadership  of  their  old  teacher  Mr. 


COUNTRY   ABANDONED    TO    THE   INDIANS. 


427 


Spalding,  have  once  more  resumed  the  pursuits  of  civil- 
ized and  Christianized  nations. 

As  early  in  the  Spring  as  possible  Messrs.  Walker  and 
Kclls  left  the  Cimikain  mission,  and  settled  in  the  Walla- 
met  Valley,  leaving  the  upper  country  entirely  in  the 
luinds  of  the  Indians  for  a  period  of  several  years,  during 
which  Oregon  went  through  her  Indian  wars. 


.'  .    I 


":     >:•.    ■!■"•   ■■   ;  ■  .'    ■ ;      i'.i:      .:   ■■■< .  U'-' 


Alt*.*.    '5  I 


428 


THE   CALL   TO  AltMS. 


CHAPTER    XXXVII. 


•  1  ♦! : 


1847-8,  When  the  contents  of  Mr.  Douglas'  letter  to 
the  governor  became  known  to  the  citizens  of  the  Walla- 
met  settU  luent,  the  greatest  excitement  prevailed.  On 
the  reading  of  that  letter,  and  those  accompanying  it,  be- 
fore the  House,  a  resolution  was  immediately  introduced 
authorizing  the  governor  to  raise  a  company  of  riflemen, 
not  to  exceed  fifty  in  number,  to  occupy  and  hold  the 
mission  station  ai  the  Dalles,  until  a  larger  force  could  le 
raised,  and  such  measures  adopted  as  the  government 
might  think  advisable.  This  resolution  being  sent  to  the 
governor  without  delay,  received  his  approval,  when  the 
House  adjourned. 

A  large  meeting  of  the  citizens  was  held  that  evening, 
which  was  addressed  by  several  gentlemen,  among  whom 
was  Meek,  whose  taste  for  Indian  fighting  was  whetted  to 
keenness  by  the  aggravating  circumstances  of  the  Waiilat- 
pu  massacre,  and  the  fact  that  his  little  Helen  Mar  was 
among  the  captives.  Impatient  as  was  Meek  to  avenge 
the  murders,  he  was  too  good  a  mountain-man  to  give  any 
rash  advice.  All  that  could  be  done  under  the  existing 
circumstances  was  to  trust  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company 
for  the  rescue  of  the  prisoners,  and  to  take  such  means  for 
defending  the  settlements  as  the  people  in  their  unarmed 
condition  could  devise. 

The  legislature  undertook  the  settlement  of  the  ques- 
tion of  ways  and  means.     To  raise  money  for  the  carrying 


il 


WAYS   AND   MEANS   OF   DEFENCE. 


429 


out  of  the  most  important  measures  immodiatoly,  was  a 
tusk  which  after  some  consideration  was  entrusted  to  tliree 
commissioners;  and  by  these  commissioners  letters  were 
iuldressed  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  the  superintend- 
ent of  the  Metliodist  mission,  and  to  the  "  mercliants  and 
citizens  of  Oregon."  The  latter  communication  is  valua- 
ble as  fully  explaining  tlic  position  of  allairs  at  that  time 
in  Oregon,     It  is  dated  Dec.  17th,  and  was  as  follows  : 

Gknti.kmen  : — You  are  aware  that  the  undersignotl  have  been  oharired  hy 
tlic  Ir  .'islatiire  of  our  provisional  govcrninont  witli  tin;  difUciilt  duty  of  ohtain- 
iii^  tin'  lU'ccs.sary  lueanB  to  arm,  ccjiiip,  and  support  in  llu;  field  a  force  puflicient 
to  obtain  full  satisfaction  of  the  Cayuse  Indians,  for  the  late  massacre  at  Waiilat- 
pii,  and  to  protect  the  white  population  of  our  common  country  from  further 
aircrrcssion. 

Ill  f'urtlii'rancc  of  this  object  they  have  deemed  it  their  duty  to  make  imme- 
diate application  to  the  merchants  and  citizens  of  the  country  for  the  requisite 
assistance. 

Though  clothed  with  the  power  to  pledge,  to  the  fullest  extent,  the  faith  and 
means  of  the  present  government  of  Oregon,  they  do  not  consider  this  pledge 
the  (inly  security  to  those  who,  in  this  distressing  emergency,  may  extend  to  the 
IK'dpleof  this  country  the  means  of  protection  and  redress. 

Without  claiming  any  special  authority  from  tlie  government  of  the  United 
States  to  contract  a  debt  to  be  liquidated  by  that  power,  yet,  from  all  prece- 
dents of  like  ("naractcr  in  the  history  of  our  country,  the  undersigned  feel  con- 
fiileiit  that  the  United  States  government  will  regard  the  murder  of  the  late 
Dr.  Whitman  and  his  lady,  as  a  national  wrong,  and  will  fully  justify  tlie  peo- 
])li'  of  Oregon  in  taking  active  measures  to  obtain  redress  for  that  outrage,  and 
fur  their  jirotection  from  further  aggression, 

Tlie  right  of  self-defence  is  tacitly  acknowledged  to  every  body  politic  in  the 
confederacy  to  which  we  claim  to  belong,  and  in  every  case  similar  to  our  own, 
within  our  knowledge,  the  general  government  has  promptly  assumed  the  pay- 
ment of  all  liabilities  growing  out  of  the  measures  taken  by  the  constituted 
authorities,  to  protect  the  lives  and  property  of  those  who  reside  within  the 
limits  of  their  districts. 

If  the  citizens  of  the  States  and  territories,  east  of  the  Rocky  mountains, 
arc  justified  in  promptly  acting  in  such  emergencies,  who  are  under  the 
immediate  protection  of  the  general  government,  there  appears  no  room  for 
doubt  that  the  lawful  acts  of  the  Oregon  government  will  receive  a  like  ap- 
proval. 

Though  the  Indians  of  the  Columbia  have  committed  a  great  outrage  upon 
our  fellow  citizens  passing  through  their  country,  and  residing  among  them, 


430 


FIIl^T   llEOIMENT   OF   OREGON   RIFLEMEN. 


and  their  pniiishincnt  for  thoHo  mnnUTH  may,  and  ought  to  he,  a  prime  object 
with  overy  citi/iMi  of  Orc^^on,  yt't,  as  that  (hity  more  particularly  duvolves  uinm 
tho  govcrnmiuit  of  the  United  Stataji,  and  admits  of  delay,  vro  <lo  not  make 
this  the.  stroni^est  (ground  upon  whicli  to  found  our  earnest  appeal  to  you  fur 
jH'cuuiiiry  assistauee.  It  is  a  fact  well  knovn  to  every  person  ac(iuiiiiUed  with 
tho  Indian  character,  that,  by  passinj^  silently  over  thoir  repeated  thelh,  rolt- 
beries,  and  murders  of  our  fellow-citizens,  they  have  been  emhohleiied  to  llu- 
commission  of  the  appalliuj^  massacre  at  Waiilatpu.  They  cull  us  wonu'n, 
dcstituti!  of  the  hearts  and  eourajro  of  men,  ami  if  we  allow  this  whelesalu  mur- 
der to  pass  by  as  fonmrr  aggressions,  wlio  can  tell  how  long  either  life  or  prop- 
erty will  he  secure  in  any  ])art  of  this  country,  or  what  moment  the  Wilianietle 
will  be  the  scene  of  hhiod  and  carnage. 

The  officers  of  our  provisional  government  have  nobly  performed  their  duty. 
None  can  doubt  th(^  ri'adiness  of  tho  patriotic  sons  of  the  west  to  ofliir  their 
personal  .services  in  defcucc  of  a  cause  so  righteous.  So  it  now  rests  'ivith  you, 
gentlemen,  to  say  whether  our  rights  and  our  fire-sides  shall  be  defended,  or 
not. 

Hoping  that  none  will  be  found  to  falter  in  so  high  and  so  .sacred  a  duty,  we 
beg  leave,  gentlemen,  to  subscribe  ourselves, 

Your  servants  and  fellow-citizens,        "    ' ' 

Jk8se  Appleoate, 
A.  L.  L0VE.10Y, 
Geo.  L.  CuuiiY, 

Commissioners, 


A  Similar  letter  had  been  addressed  to  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company,  and  to  the  Methodist  mission.  From  each 
of  these  sources  such  assistance  was  obtained  as  enabled 
the  colony  to  arm  and  equip  the  first  regiment  of  Oregon 
riflemen,  which  in  the  month  of  January  proceeded  to  the 
Cay  use  country.  The  amount  raised,  however,  was  very 
small,  being  less  than  five  thousand  dollars,  and  it  became 
imperatively  necessary  that  the  government  of  the  United 
States  should  be  called  upon  to  extend  its  aid  and  protec- 
tion to  the  loyal  but  distressed  young  territory. 

In  view  of  this  necessity  it  was  resolved  in  the  leg- 
islature to  send  a  messenger  to  carry  the  intelligence 
of  the  massacre  to  Gov.  Mason  of  California,  and  through 
him  to  the  commander  of  the  United  States  squadron 
in  the  Pacific,  that  a  vessel  of  war  might  be  sent  into 


mki;k  api'ointed  mkhsenoeu  to  the  united  states.  431 


sacred  a  duty,  we 


tho  Columbia  River,  and  arms  and  ajuniunition  borrowed 
for  the  present  emergency,  from  the  nearest  arsenal. 
For  tills  duty  was  chosen  Jesse  A])plegato,  Esq.,  a  gentle- 
iiiiui  who  combined  in  his  character  and  person  the  ability 
of  tho  statesman  with  the  sagacity  and  strength  of  the 
pioneer.  Mr.  Ai)plegate,  with  a  small  party  of  brave 
men,  set  out  in  midwinter  to  cross  the  mountains  into  Cal- 
ifornia, but  such  was  the  depth  of  snow  they  encountered 
thiit  traveling  became  impossible,  even  after  abandoning 
llieir  horses,  and  they  were  compelled  to  return. 

The  messenger  elected  to  proceed  to  the  United  States 
was  Joseph  L.  Meek,  whoso  Rocky  Mountain  experiences 
ciniiicutly  fitted  him  to  encounter  the  dangers  of  such  a 
winter  journey,  and  whose  manliness,  firmness,  and  ready 
wit  stood  him  instead  of  statesmanship. 

On  the  17th  December  Meek  resigned  his  seat  in  the 
House  in  order  to  prepare  for  the  discharge  of  his  duty  as 
messenger  to  the  United  States.  On  the  4th  of  January, 
armed  with  his  credentials  from  the  Oregon  legislature, 
and  bearing  dispatches  from  that  body  and  the  Governor 
to  the  President,  he  at  length  set  out  on  the  long  and  per- 
ilous expedition,  having  for  traveling  companions  Mr. 
John  Owens,  and  Mr.  George  Ebbarts — the  latter  having 
formerly  been  a  Rocky  Mountain  man,  like  himself 

At  the  Dalles  they  found  the  first  regiment  of  Oregon 

Riflemen,  under  Major  Lee,  of  the  newly  created  army  of 

Oregon.     From   the   reports   which   the   Dalles   Indians 

brought  in  of  the  hostility  of  the  Indians  beyond  the  Des 

Chutes  River  it  was  thought  best  not  to  proceed   before 

the  arrival  of  the  remainder  of  the  army,  when  all  the 

forces  would  proceed   at   once  to  Waiilatpu.     Owing  to 

various  delays,  the  army,  consisting  of  about  five  hundred 

men,  under  Colonel  Gilliam,  did  not  reach  the  Dalles  until 

late  in  January,  when  the  troops  proceeded  at  once  to  the 

seat  of  war.     ^^ 
28 


4S2 


THE    AliMY    MAUClIii.S    TO  AVAIILATPlT. 


The  reports  concerning  the  warlike  disposition  of  the 
Indians  pi'oved  to  be  correct.  Ah-eady,  the  Wascopanis 
or  i)alles  Indians  had  begun  robbing  the  mission  at  that 
jihice,  Avhen  Colonel  Lee's  arr-val  among  them  with  troops 
had  compelled  them  to  return  the  stolen  property.  As 
the  army  advanced  they  found  that  all  the  tribes  above 
the  Dalles  "./ere  holding  themselves  prepared  for  hostilities. 
At  Well  Springs,  beyond  the  Des  Chutes  River,  they  were 
met  by  a  body  of  about  six  hundred  Indians  to  whom  tliey 
gave  battle,  soon  dispersing  them,  the  superior  arms  and 
equipments  of  the  whites  tending  to  render  timid  those 
tribes  yet  unaccustomed  to  so  superior  an  enemy.  From 
thence  to  Waiilatpu  the  course  of  the  army  was  unob- 
structed. 

In  the  meantime  the  captives  had  been  given  up  to  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company,  and  full  particulars  of  the  massa- 
cre were  obtained  by  the  army,  with  all  the  subsequeiit 
abuses  and  atrocities  sufFei-'^d  by  the  prison.. rs.  The  hor- 
rible details  were  not  calculated  to  soften  the  first  bitterness 
of  hatred  which  had  animated  the  volunteers  on  gcino' 
into  the  field.  Nor  was  the  appearance  of  an  armed  force 
in  their  midst  likely  to  allay  the  hostile  feelings  with 
which  other  causes  had  inspired  the  Indians.  Had  not  the 
captives  already  been  removed  out  of  the  country,  no 
influence,  not  even  that  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company, 
could  have  prevailed  to  get  them  out  of  the  power  of  their 
captors  then.  Indeed,  in  order  to  treat  with  the  Cay  uses 
in  the  first  place,  Mr.  Ogden  had  been  obliged  to  promise 
peace  to  the  Indians,  and  now  they  found  instead  of  peace, 
every  preparation  for  war.  However,  a©  the  army  took 
no  immediate  action,  but  only  j-omained  in  their  country  to 
await  the  appearance  of  the  commissioners  appointed  by 
the  legislature  of  Oregon  to  hold  a  council  with  the  chiefs 
of  the  various  tribes,  the  Cayuses   were  forced  to  observi; 


VTPIT. 


MKKlv    E8C0UTED    TO    THE    BLUFJ    MOUNTAINS. 


433 


lisposition  of  tlie 
the  Wascoi)anis 
u^  mission  at  that 
them  with  troops 
11  property.  As 
the  tribes  above 
red  for  hostilities. 
River,  they  were 
ins  to  whom  they 
iperior  arras  and 
ider  timid  those 
n  enemy.  From 
army   was  uuob- 

given  up  to  the 
ars  of  the  massa- 
1  the  subsequent 
on.:rs.  The  hor- 
,h  d  first  bitterness 
iinteers  on  going 
)f  an  armed  force 
ile  feelings  with 
lis.     Had  not  the 

the  country,  no 
s  Bay  Company, 
he  power  of  their 
with  the  Cayuses 
)liged  to  promise 
instead  of  peace, 
ic3  the  army  took 
I  their  country  to 
srs  appointed  by 
il  with  the  chiefs 
breed  to  observe 


ho  outward  semblance  of  amity  while  these  councils  were 

1  landing 

Arrived  at  Waiilatpu,  the  friends  and  acquaintances  of 
lir.  Whitman  Avcre  '-hocked  to  find  that  the  remains  of  the 
victims  Avere  still  unburied,  although  a  little  earth  had 
heeii  tlu'own  over  them.  Meek,  to  whom,  ever  since  his 
meeting  with  her  in  the  train  of  the  fur-trader,  Mrs.  Whit- 
man had  seemed  all  that  was  noble  and  captivating,  had 
ihe  melancholy  satisfaction  of  bestowing,  with  others,  the 
last  sad  rite  of  burial  upon  such  portions  of  her  once  fair 
person  as  murder  and  the  wolves  had  not  destroyed.  Some 
tresses  of  golden  hair  were  severed  from  the  brow  so  ter- 
ribly disfigured,  to  be  given  to  her  friends  in  the  Walla- 
met  as  a  last  and  only  memorial.  Among  the  State  docu- 
ments at  Salem,  Oregon,  may  still  be  seen  one  of  these 
relics  of  the  Waiilatpu  tragedy. 

Not  only  had  Meek  to  discover  and  inter  the  remains  of 
Dr.  and  Mrs.  Whitman,  but  also  of  his  little  girl,v,'ho  was 
hmg  educated  at  the  mission,  with  a  daughter  of  his 
former  leader,  Bridger. 

This  sad  duty  performed,  he  immediately  set  out,  escorted 
by  a  company  of  one  hundred  men  under  Adjutant  Wil- 
cox, who  accompanied  him  as  far  as  the  foot  of  the  Blue 
Mountains.  Here  the  companies  separated,  and  Meek 
went  on  his  way  to  Washington. 


434 


MEETING    WITH   BANNACKS — WHITE    LIES. 


CHAPTER    XXXVIII, 


1848.  Meek's  party  now  consisted  of  himself,  Ebbarts. 
Owens,  and  four  men,  who  being  desirous  of  returninji:  to 
the  States  took  this  opportunity.  Ho^"  \  r,  as  the  snow 
proved  to  be  very  deep  on  the  Blue  Mountains,  and  the 
cold  severe,  two  of  these  four  volunteers  became  discour 
aged  and  concluded  to  remain  at  Fort  Boise,  where  was  a 
small  trading  post  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.     '- 

In  order  to  avoid  trouble  with  the  Indians  he  might 
meet  on  the  western  side  of  the  Rocky  mountains.  Meek 
had  adopted  the  red  belt  and  Canadian  cap  of  the  employees 
of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company ;  and  to  this  precaution 
was  owing  the  fact  of  his  safe  passage  through  the  coun- 
try now  all  infected  with  hostility  caught  from  the  Cayuses. 
About  three  days'  travel  beyond  Fort  Boise,   the  party 
met  a  village  of  Bannack  Indians,  who  at  once  made  >var- 
like  demonstrations ;  but  on  seeing  Meok's  costur^ie,  and 
receiving  an  invitation  to  hold  a  '  talk',  desisted,  and  re 
ceived  the  travelers  in  a  friendly  manner.     Mcok  infomied 
the  chief,  with  all  the  gravity  which  had  wou  for  him  the 
name  of  '■'•  shiam  shuspima'^  among  tho  Civws  in  former 
years,  that  he  was  going  on  the  business  of  tho  Hudson's 
Bay  Company  to  Fort  Hall ;  and  that  Thomas  McKay  w!».s 
a  day's  march  behind  with  a  large  trading  party,  and 
plenty  of  goods.     On  the  i^XH^ipt  of  this  good  news,  the 
chief  ordered  his  braves  K'*  ft^^\  W-k,  and  permit  the  partv 
to  pass.     Yet,  feariiA^  the  vUveption  might  be  discovered, 


8. 


DEEP    SNOWS THE    HOUSES    AHAXDONEI). 


435 


self,  Ebbart?. 
returnin^r  to 
as  the  snow 
ains,  and  the 
ame  discour- 
where  was  a 
)any. 

ins  he  might 
mtains,  Metk 
he  employees 
s  precaution 
gh  the  couii- 
the  Cayuscs. 
the  party 
Re  made  ^vllr■ 
costupie,  and 
isted,  and  re 
ook  infomed 
\  for  him  the 
v's  in  former 
;h 
s 


tlioy  tliought  it  prudent  to  travel  day  and  night  until  they 
reachi'd  Fort  Hall. 

At  this  post  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  in  charge 
of  Mr.  Grant,  they  were  kindly  received,  and  stopped  for 
a  ll'W  hours  of  rest.  Mr.  Grant  being  absent,  his  wife  pro- 
vided lilKU'ally  for  the  refreshment  of  the  party,  who  were 
fliul  to  find  themselves  even  for  a  short  interval  under  a 
roof,  beside  a  fire  and  partaking  of  freshly  cooked  food. 
Hut  thoy  permitted  themselves  no  unnecessary  delay.  Be- 
Ibre  xiight  the}^  were  once  more  on  their  Avay,  though 
snow  had  now  commenced  to  foil  afresh,  rendering  the 
tniveling  very  difficult.  For  two  days  they  struggled  on, 
iheir  horses  floundering  in  the  soft  drifts,  until  further 
progress  in  that  manner  became  impossible.  The  only  al- 
ternative left  was  to  abandon  their  horses  and  proceed  on 
snow-shoes,  which  were  readily  constructed  out  of  willow 
sticks. 

Taking  only  a  blanket  and  their  rifles,  and  leaving  the 
animals  to  find  their  way  back  to  Fort  Hall,  the  little  party 
pnwhed  on.  Meek  was  now  on  familiar  ground,  and  the 
old  mountain  spirit  which  had  once  enabled  him  to  endure 
hunger,  cold,  and  fatigue  without  murmuring,  possessed 
him  now.  It  was  not  without  a  certain  sense  of  enjoy- 
ment that  he  found  himself  reduced  to  the  necessity  of 
shooting  a  couple  of  pole-cats  to  furnish  a  supper  for  him- 
self and  party.  How  long  the  enjoyment  of  feeling  want 
would  have  lasted  is  uncertain,  but  probably  only  lo-jg 
enough  to  whet  the  appetite  for  plenty. 

To  such  a  point  had  the  appetites  of  all  the  party  been 
whetted,  when,  after  several  days  of  scarcity  and  toil  fol- 
lo\\od  by  flights  of  emptiness  and  cold.  Meek  had  the 
nsirceable  surprise  of  falling  in  with  an  old  mountain  com- 
rade on  the  id(Miiical  ground  of  mf .  y  a  former  adventure, 
the  head- waters  of  Bear  River.     This  man,  whom  Meek 


4;}6 


PKG-LEG    SMITH A    MOUNTAIN'    IlKVEL. 


was  clolightod  to  meet,  was  Peg-log  Smith,  one  of  iIk 
most  famous  of  many  well-known  mountain-men.  He 
wafj  engaged  in  herding  cattle  in  the  valley  of  Thomas' 
Foi'k,  where  the  tall  grass  was  not  (juite  buried  under 
snow,  and  had  with  him  a  party  of  ten  men. 

Meek  was  as  cordially  received  by  his  former  comrade 
as  the  unbounded  hospitality  of  UKmntain  manners  ren- 
dered it  certain  he  would  be.  A  fat  cow  was  immediately 
sacrificed,  which,  though  not  buffalo  meat,  as  in  former 
times  it  would  have  been,  was  very  good  beef,  and  fur- 
nished a  luxurious  rej)ast  to  the  pole-cat  caters  of  the 
last  several  days.  Smith's  car.  p  did  not  lack  the  domes- 
tic element  of  women  and  chidren,  any  more  than  had 
the  trapper's  camps  in  the  flush  times  of  the  fur-trade. 
Therefore,  seeing  that  the  meeting  was  most  joyful,  and 
full  of  reminiscences  of  former  winter  camps.  Smith 
thought  to  celebrate  the  occasion  by  a  grand  entertain- 
ment. Accordingly,  after  a  great  deal  of  roast  beef  had 
been  disposed  of,  a  dance  was  called  for,  in  which  white 
men  and  Indian  women  joined  with  far  more  mirth  and 
jollity  than  grace  or  ceremony.  Thus  passed  some  hours 
of  the  night,  the  bearer  of  dispatches  seizing,  in  true 
mountain  style,  the  passing  moment's  pleasure,  so  long  as 
it  did  not  interfere  with  the  punctilious  discharge  of  his 
duty.  And  to  the  honor  of  our  hero  be  it  said,  nothing 
was  ever  allowed  to  interfere  with  that. 

Refreshed  and  provided  with  rations  for  a  couple  of 
days,  the  party  started  on  again  next  morning,  still  on 
snow-shoes,  and  ti'aveled  up  Bear  River  to  the  head-waters 
of  Green  River,  crossing  from  the  Muddy  fork  over  to 
Fort  Bridgei',  where  they  arrived  very  much  fatigued  bi 
quite  well  in  little  more  than  three  days'  travel.  Her. 
again  it  was  Meek's  good  fortune  to  meet  with  his  form< 
leader,  Bridger,  to  whom  lie  relatetl   what  had  befallen 


^'EL. 


MEETING    WITH    AN   OLD   LEADEU. 


437 


itli,  one  of  the 
itaiii-mon.  \h 
Hey  of  Tliomas 
)  buried  under 
;n. 

brnier  comrade 
I  manners  ren- 
*vas  inimediatclv 
,t,   as  in  former 
I  beef,  and  fur- 
it  caters  of  the 
lack  the  domes- 
more  than  had 
)t'  the  fur-trade, 
lost  joyful,  and 
■   camps,    Smith 
>-rand  enter  tain- 
roast  beef  had 
in  which  white 
more  mirth  nnd 
?sed  some  hours 
seizing,  in  true 
isure,  so  long  as 
discbarge  of  his 
it  said,  nothiug 

for  a  couple  of 
norning,  still  on 

the  head-waters 
dy  fork  over  to 
ich  liitigued  but 
3'  travel.     Here 

with  his  former 
at  had  bellilloii 


him  since  turning  i)ioneor.  The  meeting  was  joyful  on 
lioth  sides,  clouded  oidy  l)y  the  renienibrance  of  what  had 
brought  it  about,  and  the  reflection  that  both  had  a  per- 
sonal wrong  to  avenge  in  bringing  about  the  punishment 
of  the  Cayusc  murderers. 

Once  more  Mcek's  party  were  generously  fed,  and  fur- 
nished with  such  provisions  as  they  could  carry  about 
their  persons.  In  addition  to  this,  Bridger  presented 
thoni  with  four  good  mules,  by  which  means  the  travelers 
wore  mounted  four  at  a  time,  while  the  fifth  took  exercise 
on  foot ;  so  that  by  riding  or  walking,  turn  about,  they 
wore  enabled  to  get  on  very  well  as  far  as  the  South  Pass. 
Here  again  for  some  distance  the  snow  was  very  deep, 
and  two  of  their  mules  were  lost  in  it.  Their  course  lay 
down  the  Sweetwater  River,  past  many  familiar  hunting 
;nul  camping  grounds,  to  the  Platte  Iliver.  Owing  to  the 
doe[)  snows,  game  was  very  scarce,  and  a  long  day  o^*  toil 
\\is  frequently  clo^^ed  by  a  supperless  sleep  under  shelter 
of  some  rock  or  bank,  with  only  a  blanket  for  cover.  At 
Kcd  Buttos  they  were  so  fortunate  as  to  find  and  kill  a 
sinfxle  buffalo,  which,  separated  from  the  distant  herd,  was 
k'ft  by  Providence  in  the  path  of  the  famished  travelers. 

On  reaching  the  Platte  River  they  found  the  traveling 
improved,  as  well  as  the  supply  of  game,  and  proc(>eded 
with  less  difficulty  as  far  as  Fort  Laramie,  a  tra  lijig  post 
in  charge  of  a  French  trader  named  Papillion.  Here 
aiiain  fresh  nndes  were  obtained,  and  the  little  party 
treated  in  the  most  hospitable  manner.  In  parting  from 
his  (iutertainer.  Meek  was  favored  with  this  brief  counsel : 

"  There  is  a  village  of  Sioux,  of  about  nix  hundred 
lodges,  a  hundred  miles  from  hero.  Your  course  will 
bring  you  to  it.  Look  out  for  yourself,  and  don't  make 
a(irn\  muss  of  it!" — which  latter  clause  referred  to  the 


1^1 


438 


PASSING   THE    SIOUX    VILLAGE. 


afi'air  of  1837,  when  tho  Sioux  liad  killed  the  Indian  cs 
cort  of  Mr.  Gray. 

When  tho  party  arrived  at  Ash  Hollow,  which  tliev 
meant  to  have  passed  in  the  night,  on  account  of  the 
Sioux  village,  the  snow  was  again  falling  so  thickly  that 
the  party  had  not  perceived  their  nearness  to  the  villafre 
until  they  were  fairly  in  the  midst  of  it.  It  was  now  no 
safer  to  retreat  than  to  proceed ;  and  after  a  moment's 
consultation,  the  word  was  given  to  keep  on.  In  truth, 
Meek  thought  it  doubtful  wh(  ther  the  Sioux  would  trouble 
themselves  to  come  out  in  such  a,  tempest,  and  if  they  did 
80,  that  the  blinding  snow-ftill  was  rather  in  his  favor. 
Thus  reasoning,  he  was  forcing  his  mule  through  the 
drifts  as  rapidly  as  the  poor  worried  animal  could  make 
its  way,  when  a  head  was  protruded  from  a  lodge  door, 
and  'Hallo,  Major!"  greeted  his  ear  in  an  accent  not 
altogethe    English. 

On  being  thus  accosted,  the  party  camo  to  a  halt,  and 
Meek  was  invited  to  enter  the  lodge,  with  his  friends. 
His  host  on  this  occasion  was  a  French  trader  named  Le 
Hcan,  wlio,  after  offering  the  hospitalities  of  the  lodge, 
and  learning  who  were  his  guests,  offered  to  accompany 
the  party  a  few  miles  on  its  way.  This  he  did,  saying  by 
way  cf  explanation  of  this  act  of  courtesy,  "  The  Sioux 
are  a  bad  people ;  I  thought  it  best  to  see  you  safe  out 
of  the  village."  Receiving  the  thanks  of  the  travelers, 
he  turned  back  at  night-fall,  and  they  continued  on  all 
night  without  stopping  to  camp,  going  some  distance  to 
the  south  of  their  course  before  turning  east  again,  in 
order  to  avoid  any  possible  pursuers. 

Without  further  adventures,  and  by  dint  of  almost  con- 
stant travel,  the  party  arrived  at  St.  Joseph,  Mo.,  in 
safety,  in  a  little  over  two  months,  from  Portland,  Oregon. 
Soon  afterwards,  when  the  circumstances  of  this  journey 


"the    QUICKEBT    TUIP    YET." 


139 


DOcMine  known,  a  steamboat  built  for  the  Missouri  Rivor 
iiado  was  cliristeucd  the  Joseph  L.  Meek,  and  bore  lor  a 
motto,  on  her  pilot-house,  "The  quickest  trip  yet,"  in 
lefcrcuco  both  to  Meek's  overland  journey  and  her  own 
stoaininfjf  qualities. 

As  Meek  approached  the  settlements,  and  knew  that  he 
miHt  soon  be  thrown  into  society  of  the  highest  oflicial 
i^rado,  and  be  subjected  to  such  ordeals  as  he  dreaded  far 
more  than  Indian  fighting,  or  even  traveling  express 
iKTOss  a  continent  of  snow,  the  subject  of  how  he  was  to 
boliave  in  these  new  and  trying  positions  very  frequently 
(Occurred  to  him.  lie,  ;ii!  r.neducated  man,  trained  to 
luoiiiitain  life  and  maimer's,  without  money,  or  even 
clothes,  vrith  nothing  './•  depen'I  on  but  the  importance  of 
his  mission  and  \\\6  owu  iiiother  wit,  he  felt  far  more 
icoenly  than  his  careless  appearance  would  suggest,  the 
ilillicnlties  and  awkwardness  of  his  position. 

"I  thought  a  great  deal  about  it,"  confesses  the  Col. 

cph  L.  Meek  of  to-day,  "and  I  finally  concluded  that 

I  had  never  tried  to  act  like  anybody  but  myself,  I 

would  not  make  myself  a  fool  by  beginning  to  ape  other 

folks  now.     So  I  said,  '  Joe  Mv;ek  you  always  have  been, 

and  Joe  Meek  you  shall  remain  ;  go  ahead,  Joe  Meek !'  " 

111  fact,  it  would  have  been  rather  difficult  putting  on 
line  gentleman  airs,  in  that  old  worn-out  hunting  suit  of 
liis,  and  with  not  a  dollar  to  bless  himself  On  the  con- 
tiaiy,  it  needed  just  the  devil-may-care  temper  which 
natuially  belonged  to  our  hero,  to  carry  him  through  the 
remainder  of  his  journey  to  Washington.  To  be  hungry, 
iil-cl  ;d,  dirty,  and  penniless,  is  sufficient  in  itself  for  the 
Mibduing  of  most  spirits ;  how  it  affected  the  temper  of 
tlie  messeiiiger  from  Oregon  we  shall  now  learn. 

^\\\Q\\  the  weary  little  party  arrived  in  St.  Joseph,  they 
repaired  to  a  hotel,   and   Meek  requested   that  a  monj 


Ml 


410 


IfKCKl'TKKV    AT    ST,    JOSKIMF. 


sliould  be  served  for  ,'iil,  but  fViinkly  coiifossiiif^  that  tluv 
had  no  money  to  pny.  Tlie  Uindlord,  however,  declincil 
fiiniisliing  guests  of  hia  style  upon  sueh  terms,  and  our 
travelers  were  forced  to  go  into  eamp  below  the  town 
Meek  now  bethought  himself  of  his  letters  of  introduc- 
tion. Jt  chanced  that  he  had  one  from  two  youno'  hkh 
among  the  Oregon  volunteers,  to  their  father  in  St.  Jo- 
seph. Stopping  a  negro  who  was  passing  his  camp,  lie 
in(|uired  whether  such  a  gentleman  was  known  to  him; 
and  on  learning  that  he  was,  succeeded  in  inducing  tlio 
ncin'o  to  deliver  the  letter  from  his  sons. 

Tliis  movement  proved  successful.  In  a  short  space  of 
time  the  gentleman  presented  himself,  and  learning  the 
situation  of  the  party,  provided  generously  for  their  pros- 
ent  wants,  and  promised  any  assistance  which  might  be 
re(piired  in  future.  Meek,  however,  chose  to  accept  only 
that  which  was  imperatively  ne(Kled,  namely,  something 
to  eat,  and  transportation  to  some  point  on  the  river 
Avhere  he  could  take  a  steamer  for  St.  Louis.  A  portion 
of  his  party  chose  to  remain  in  St.  Joseph,  and  a  portion 
accompanied  him  as  far  as  Independence,  whither  tlii-^ 
same  St.  Joseph  gentleman  conveyed  them  in  his  carriage. 

While  Meek  was  stopping  at  Independence,  he  was 
recognized  by  a  sister,  whom  he  had  not  seen  for  nineteen 
years  ;  who,  marrying  and  emigrating  from  Virginia,  had 
settled  c  the  frontier  of  Missouri.  But  ho  gave  himself 
no  time  \  n'  (hnilly  reunion  and  gossip.  A  steamboat  that 
had  been  /rozen  Up  In  the  ice  all  winter,  was  just  about 
starting  for  St.  Ltinis^  and  on  board  of  this  he  went,  witli 
nn  introduction  to  the  captain,  which  secured  for  him 
every  privilege  the  lioat  afforded,  together  with  the  kind 
est  attention  of  its  officers. 

AVhen  the  steamer  arrived  in  St.  Louis,  by  one  of  those 
Ibrtuitoiis  circumstances  so  common  in  our  hero's  career, 


ARRIVAL    AT    ST.    LOUIS. 


441 


h,.  WIS  met  ;it  tho  lan(liii<r  l)y  Campbo]],  a  Ilocky  Moun- 
i;iiu  tnider  who  had  lonnerly  boh)iiged  to  tho  St.  Jjonis 
Coiiipany.  This  niootinj^-  relieved  him  of  any  care  ahoiii 
liis  iiiii:iif'.i  entertainment  in  St.  Louis,  and  it  also  had  an- 
other on'eet — that  of  relieving  him  of  any  further  care.' 
lijioiit  tlie  remainder  of  his  journey  ;  for.  after  hearing 
Meek's  story  of  the  position  of  afiairs  in  Oregon  and  his 
crraiul  to  the  United  States,  Campbell  had  given  the 
Mime  to  the  newspaper  reporters,  and  Meek,  like  Byron, 
Wiikod  up  next  morning  to  lind  himself  famous. 

ilaviug  telegraphed  to  Washington,  and  roeeivcd  tho 
I'rcsidcut's  order  to  eome  on,  the  previous  evcjiiir.g,  our 
liero  woiuled  his  way  to  the  levee  the  morning  after  his 


:,IEEK    AS    STEAMBOAT    UUXNICK. 


arrival  in  St.  Louis.     There  were  two  steamers  lying  side 
l»y  side,   both  up  for  Pittsburg,   with  runners  for  each, 


--"'titi 


442 


TUE  VOLUNTEER  BTEAMHOAT  UUNXEU. 


striviiif^  to  outdo  each  other  in  securing  passengers.  .\ 
bright  tliought  occurred  to  the  moneyless  envoy— ho 
would  earn  his  pa.ssage  ! 

Walking  on  board  one  of  the  boats,  which  boro  tlie 
name  of  The  Deidaration^  himself  a  figure  which  attracted 
all  eyes  by  his  size  and  outlandish  dress,  he  mounted  to 
the  hurricane  deck  and  began  to  harrangue  the  crowd 
upon  the  levee,  in  the  voice  of  a  Stentor  : 

"  This  way,  gentlemen,  if  you  please.  Come  right  on 
boaj'd  the  Declaration.  I  am  the  man  from  Oregon,  with 
dispatches  to  the  President  of  these  United  States,  that 
you  all  read  about  in  this  morning's  paper.  Come  on 
board,  ladies  and  gentlemen,  if  you  want  to  hear  the  news 
from  Oregon.  I've  just  come  across  the  plains,  two 
months  from  the  Columbia  River,  where  the  Injuns  are 
killing  your  missionaries.  Those  p??ssengers  who  come 
aboard  the  Declaration  shall  hear  all  about  it  before  tliey 
get  to  Pittsburg.  Don't  stop  thar,  looking  at  my  old 
wolf-ikin  cjip,  but  just  come  aboard,  and  hear  what  I've 
got  to  tell!"  '    !  vv 

The  novelty  of  this  sort  of  solicitation  operated  cap- 
itally. Many  persons  crowded  on  board  the  Declaration 
only  to  get  a  closer  look  at  this  picturesque  personage 
who  invited  them,  and  many  more  because  they  were  re- 
ally interested  to  know  the  news  from  the  far  off  young 
territory  which  had  fallen  into  trouble.  So  it  chanced 
that  the  Declaration  was  inconveniently  crowded  on  this 
particular  morning. 

After  the  boat  had  got  under  way,  the  captain  ajh 
proached  his  roughest  looking  cabin  passenger  and  in-' 
quired  in  a  low  tone  of  voice  if  he  were  really  and  truly 
the  messenger  from  Oregon. 

"  Thar's  what  I've  got  to  show  for  it ;"  answered  Meek, 
producing  his  papers.  .!,Vci' 


THK    8TA(iE    AGENT    AT    WIIKKMNG. 


44  :t 


"  Well,  all  I  have  to  say  is,  Mr.  Mt;uk,  that  you  arc  the 
best  niiiuer  this  boat  ever  had ;  and  you  are  welcome  to 
your  passage  ticket,  aiul  anything  you  desire  bijsides." 

Fiiidiiig  that  his  bright  thought  liad  succiieded  so  wt;!!, 
Mei'lv'ri  s[)irit  rose  with  the  occasion,  and  tiie  passengers 
had  no  ri-ason  to  com])lain  that  he  had  not  kept  his  woid. 
Ik'Iore  lie  reached  Wheeling  his  popularity  was  immense, 
notwithstanding  the  condition  of  his  wardrobe.  At  Cin- 
cinnati he  had  time  to  present  a  letter  to  the  celebrated 

Doctor ,  who  gave  him  another,  which  proved  to  be 

an  'open  sesame'  wherever  he  went  thereafter. 

On  the  morning  of  his  arrival  in  Wheeling  it  happened 
that  the  stage  which  then  carried  passengers  to  Cumber- 
liuul,  wlierc  they  took  the  train  for  Washington,  had  al- 
ready departed.  Elated  by  his  previous  good  fortune  our 
ragged  hero  resolved  not  to  be  delayed  by  so  trivial  a 
circumstance ;  but  walking  pompously  into  the  stage  office 
inquired,  with  an  air  which  must  have  smacked  strongly 
of  the  mock-heroic,  if  he  "  could  have  a  stage  for  Cum- 
berland?" 

The  nicely  dressed,  dignified  elderly  gentleman  who 
managed  the  business  of  the  office,  regarded  the  man  who 
proffered  this  modest  request  for  a  moment  in  motionless 
silence,  then  slowly  raising  the  spectacles  over  his  eyes  to 
a  position  on  his  forehead,  finished  his  survey  with  unas- 
sisted vision.  Somewhat  impressed  by  the  manner  in 
>  liich  Meek  bore  this  scrutiny,  he  ended  by  demanding 
'  who  are  you  ?" 

Tickled  by  the  absurdity  of  the  tableau  they  were  en- 
acting. Meek  straightened  himself  up  to  his  six  feet  two, 
and  replied  with  an  air  of  superb  self  assurance — 

"■  I  am  Fnvoy  extraordinary  and  minister  plenipotenti- 
ary from  the  Rr^public  of  Oregon  to  the  Court  of  the 
United  States!" 


h 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


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2.0 


1.8 


U    11.6 


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Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

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444 


MEEK    ASTONISHES   THE   NATIVES, 


After  a  pause  in  which  the  old  gentleman  seemed  to  be 
recovering  from  some  great  surprise,  he  requested  to  see 
tlic  credentials  of  this  extraordinary  envoy.  Still  more 
surprised  he  seemed  on  discovering  for  himself  that  the 
personage  before  hira  was  really  a  messenger  from  Orejjon 
to  the  government  of  the  United  States.  But  the  effect 
was  magical.  In  a  moment  the  bell- rope  was  pulled,  and 
in  an  incredibly  short  space  of  time  a  coach  stood  at  the 
door  ready  to  convey  the  waiting  messenger  on  his  way 
to  Washington.  i  ^       .•     .'U; 

In  the  meantime  in  a  conversation  with  the  stage  agent, 
Meek  had  explained  more  fully  the  circumstances  of  his 
mission,  and  the  agent  had  become  much  interested.  On 
parting.  Meek  received  a  ticket  to  the  Ilelay  House,  with 
many  expressions  of  regret  from  the  agent  that  he  could 
ticket  him  no  farther. 

"  But  it  is  all  the  same,"  said  he ;  "  you  are  sure  to  go 
through." 

"  Or  run  a  train  off  the  track,"  rejoined  Meek,  as  he 
was  bowed  out  of  the  office. 

It  happened  that  there  were  some   other  passengers 
waiting  to  take  the  first  stage,  and  they  crowded  into  this 
one,  glad  of  the  unexpected  opportunity,  but  wondering 
at  the  queer  looking  passenger  to  v/hom  the  agent  was  so 
polite.     This  scarcely  concealed  curiosity  was  all  that  was 
needed  to  stimulate  the  mad-cap  spirits  of  our  so  far  "con- 
quering hero."     Putting  his  head  out  of  the  window  just 
at   the   moment   of   starting,    he    electrified    everybody, 
horses  included,  by  the  utterance  of  a  war-whoop  and  yell 
that  would  have  done  credit  to  a  wild  Camanche.     Satis 
fied  with  the  speed  to  which  this  demoniac  noise  had  ex- 
cited the  driver's  prancing  steeds,   ho  quietly   ensconced 
himself  in  his  corner  of  the  coach  and  waited  for  his  fel- 
low passengers  to  recover  from  their  stunned  sensations. 


THE    VICXmiZED    CONDLCTOIl. 


445 


When  their  complete  recovery  had  been  eflected,  there 
followoil  the  UHual  questioning  and  exphmations,  which 
ended  in  the  inevitable  lionizing  that  was  so  much  to  the 
niste  of  this  sensational  individual. 

On  the  cars  at  Cumberland,  and  at  the  eating-houses, 
the  messenger  from  Oregon  kept  up  his  sensational  char- 
acter, indulging  in  alternate  fits  of  mountain  manners,  and 
asrain  assuming  a  disproportionate  amount  of  grandeur ; 
biil  in  cither  view  proving  himself  very  amusing.  By  the 
time  the  train  reached  the  Relay  House,  many  of  the  pas- 
sengers had  become  acquainted  with  Meek,  and  were  pre- 
pared to  understand  and  enjoy  each  new  phase  of  his 
many-sided  comicality.  -     ^    > 

The  ticket  with  which  the  stage  agent  presented  him, 
(lead  headed  him  only  to  this  point.  Here  again  he  must 
make  his  poverty  a  jest,  and  joke  himself  through  to 
\\'^ashiiigton.  Accordingly  when  the  conductor  came 
tlironiih  the  car  in  which  he,  with  several  of  his  new 
ac4uaintances  were  sitting,  demanding  tickets,  he  was 
obliged  to  tap  his  blanketed  passenger  on  the  shoulder 
to  attract  his  attention  to  the  "ticket,  sir!" 

'' JLi  ko  any  me  ca^  hanrhf^  said  Meek,  starting  up 
and  tuldressing  him  in  the  Snake  tongue. 

"Ticket,  sir!"  repeated  the  conductor,  staring. 

'■  Ka  hum  jJci^  hanch  ?"  returned  Meek,  assuming  a  look 
wliicli  indicated  that  English  Avas  as  puzzling  to  him,  as 
Snake  to  other  people. 

Finding  that  his  time  would  be  wasted  on  this  singular 
passenger,  the  conductor  went  on  through  the  train ;  re- 
turning after  a  time  with  a  fresh  demand  for  his  ticket. 
But  Meek  sustained  his  character  admirably,  and  it  was 
only  through  the  excessive  amusement  of  the  passengers 
that  the  conductor  suspected  that  he  was  being  made  the 
i^ubject  of  a  practical  joke.     At  this  stage  of  aifairs  it  was 


,  i», 


446 


ARRIVAL    AT    WASHINGTON 


privately  explained  to  him  who  and  what  his  waggish  cus- 
tomer was,  and  tickets  were  no  more  mentioned  durinir 
the  journey. 

On  the  arrival  of  the  train  at  Washington,  the  heart  of 
our  hero  became  for  a  brief  moment  of  time  "  very  little," 
He  felt  that  the  importance  of  his  mission  demanded  some 
dignity  of  appearance — some  conformity  to   establislied 
rules  and  precedents.     But  of  the  latter  he  knew  abso- 
lutely nothing ;  and  concerning  the  former,  he  realized 
the  absurdity  of  a  dignitary  clothed  in  blankets  and  a 
wolf-skin  cap.   '  Joe  Meek  I  must  remain,'  said  he  to  him- 
self, as  he  stepped  out  of  the  train,  and  glanced  along  the 
platform  at  the  crowd  of  porters  with  the  names  of  their 
hotels  on  their  hat-bands.     Learning  from  inquiry  that 
Coleman's  was  the  most  fashionable  place,  he  decided  that 
to  Coleman's  he  would  go,  judging  correctly  that  it  was 
best  to  show  no  littleness  of  heart  even  in  the  matter  af 
hotels. 


i  ". 


1 

1 

1 
1 

in 

5 

1 

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k ■:,;: 

M.      ?;.(...   •       v;i-'   •''.-:  >■>!  :  ■  ■     -^  .    ;• 


w 


THE   DWNER  AT    COLEMAN  a 


447 


CHAPTER    XXXIX. 


1848.  When  Meek  arrived  at  Coleman's  it  "was  the 
dinner  hour,  and  following  the  crowd  to  the  dining  saloon, 
he  took  the  first  seat  he  came  to,  not  without  being  very 
much  stared  at.  He  had  taken  his  cue  and  the  staring 
was  not  unexpected,  consequently  not  so  embarrassing  as 
it  might  otherwise  have  been.  A  bill  of  fare  was  laid  be- 
side his  plate.  Turning  to  the  colored  waiter  who  placed 
it  there,  he  startled  him  first  by  inquiring  in  a  low  growl- 


.-.•,< 


mg  voice — 


V-  4^?<*- 


"  What's  that  boy?"  v^ri 

"Bill  of  fare,  sah,"  replied  the  "boy,"  who  recognized 
the  Southerner  in  the  use  of  that  one  word. 

"Read!"  growled  Meek  again.  "The  people  in  my 
country  can't  read." 

Though  taken  by  surprise,  the  waiter,  politely  obedient, 
proceeded  to  enumerate  the  courses  on  the  bill  of  fare. 
When  he  came  to  game 

"Stop  thar,  boy!"  commanded  Meek,  "what  kind  of 
game?" 

"Small  game,  sah." 

"  Fetch  me  a  piece  of  antelope,"  leaning  back  in  his 
chair  with  a  look  of  satisfaction  on  his  face. 

"  Got  none  of  that  sah ;  don't  know  what  that  ar'  sah." 

"  Doa't  know !"  with  a  look  of  pretended  surprise.  "In 
my  country  antelope  and  deer  ar'  small  game ;  bear  and 
buffalo  ar'  large  game.  I  reckon  if  you  haven't  got  one, 
29 


( 

% 

i      t^     j 

i 

^s 

\ 

1 

.11 

418 


THE   MESSENGER    CREATES   A   SENSATION. 


you  havn't  got  the  other,  either.     In  that  case  you  may 
fetch  me  some  beef." 

The  waiter  disappeared  grinning,  and  soon  returned  with 
the  customary  thin  and  small  cit,  which  Meek  eyed  at  first 
contemptuously,  and  then  accepting  it  iij  the  light  of  a 
sample  swallowed  it  at  two  mouthfuls,  returning  bis  plate 
to  the  waiter  with  an  approving  smile,  and  saying  loud 
enough  to  be  overheard  by  a  score  of  people 

"  Boy,  that  will  do.  Fetch  mc  about  four  pounds  of  the 
same  kind."  -    . 

By  this  time  the  blanketed  beef-eater  was  the  recipient 
of  general  attention,  and  the  "boy"  who  served  him  com- 
prehending with  that  quickness  which  distinguishes  ser- 
vants, that  he  had  no  ordinary  backwoodsman  to  deal  with, 
was  all  the  time  on  the  alert  to  make  himself  useful.  Peo- 
ple stared,  then  smiled,  then  asked  each  other  "  who  is  it?" 
loud  enough  for  the  stranger  to  hear.  Meek  looked  nei- 
ther to  the  right  nor  to  the  left,  pretending  not  to  hear 
the  whispering.  When  he  had  finished  his  beef,  he  again 
addressed  himself  to  the  attentive  "boy." 

"  That's  better  meat  than  the  old  mule  I  eat  in  the  moun- 
tains." 

Upon  this  remark  the  whispering  became  more  general, 
and  louder,  and  smiles  more  frequent. 

"  What  have  you  got  to  drink,  boy?"  continued  Meek, 
still  unconscious.  "  Isn't  there  a  sort  of  wine  called— 
some  kind  of  ;pain  ?" 

"  Champagne,  sah  ?" 

"  That's  the  stuff,  I  reckon ;  bring  me  some." 

While  Meek  drank  his  champagne,  with  an  occasional 
aside  to  his  faithful  attendant,  people  laughed  and  won- 
dered "  who  the  devil  it  was."  At  length,  having  finished 
his  wine,  and  overhearing  many  open  inquiries  as  to  his 
identity,  the  hero  of  many  bear-fights  slowly  arose,  and 


1^, 


RECOGXIZEI)    HV    SENATOR    UNDERWOOD. 


449 


;ase  you  may 


jat  in  the  moun- 


addrcssing   the   company  through  the   before-mentioucd 
"  boy,"  said : 

"  You  want  to  know  who  I  am  ?" 

"  If  you  please,  sah ;  yes,  if  you  please,  sah,  for  the 
sake  of  these  gentlemen  present,"  replied  the  "boy,"  an- 
swering for  the  company. 

"Wall  then,"  proclaimed  Meek  with  a  grandiloquent 
air  quite  at  variance  with  his  blanket  coat  and  unkempt 
hair,  yet  which  displayed  his  fine  person  to  advantage,  "I 
am  Envoy  Extraordinary  and  Minister  Plenipotentiary  from 
the  Republic  of  Oregon  to  the  Court  of  the  tjnited 
States!" 

With  that  he  turned  and  strode  from  the  room.  He 
had  not  proceeded  far,  however,  before  he  was  overtaken 
by  a  party  of  gentlemen  in  pursuit.  Senator  Underwood 
of  Kentucky  immediately  introduced  himself,  calling  the 
envoy  by  name,  for  the  dispatch  from  St.  Louis  had  pre- 
pared the  President  and  the  Senate  for  Meek's  appearance 
in  Washington,  though  it  had  not  advised  them  of  his 
style  of  dress  and  address.  Other  gentlemen  were  intro- 
duced, and  questions  followed  questions  in  rapid  succes- 
sion. 

When  curiosity  was  somewhat  abated,  Meek  expressed 
a  wish  to  see  the  President  without  delay.  To  Under- 
wood's question  as  to  whether  he  did  not  wish  to  make  his 
toilet  before  visiting  the  White  House,  his  reply  was, 
"business  first,  and  toilet  afterwards." 

"But,"  said  Underwood,  "even  your  business  can  wait 
long  enough  for  that." 

"No,  that's  your  mistake.  Senator,  and  I'll  tell  you  why: 
I  can't  dress,  for  two  reasons,  both  good  ones.  I've  not 
got  a  cent  of  money,  nor  a  second  suit  of  clothes." 

The  generous  Kentuckian  offered  to  remove  the  first  of 


v:  /:, 


f,<  i-  m 


450 


VISIT   TO   THE    WHITE    HOUSE. 


tijj 


the  ()l)jcctions  on  the  spot,  but  Mock  dc(.'lincd.  "I'll  see 
tlio  President  first,  and  hear  what  he  has  to  say  about  my 
mission."  Then  calling  a  coach  from  the  stand,  he  sprang 
into  it,  answering  the  driver's  question  of  where  he  would 
be  taken,  with  another  inquiry. 

"Whar  should  a  man  of  wy  style  want  to  go? — to  the 
White  House,  of  course  !"  and  so  was  driven  away  amid 
the  general  laughter  of  the  gentlemen  in  the  portico  at 
Coleman's,  who  had  rather  doubted  his  intention  to  pay 
his  respects  to  the  President  in  his  dirty  blankets. 

He  wim  admitted  to  the  Presidential  mansion  by  a  mu- 
latto of  about  his  own  age,  with  whom  he  remembered 
playing  when  a  lad,  for  it  must  be  remembered  that  the 
Meeks  and  Polks  were  related,  and  this  servant  had  grown 
up  in  the  family.  On  inquiring  if  he  could  see  the  Presi- 
dent, he  was  directed  to  the  office  of  the  private  Secretary, 
Knox  Walker,  also  a  relative  of  Meek's  on  the  mothers 
side. 

On  entering  he  found  the  room  filled  with  gentlemen 
waiting  to  see  the  President,  each  when  his  turn  to  be  ad- 
mitted should  arrive.  The  Secretary  sat  reading  a  paper, 
over  the  top  of  which  he  glanced  but  once  at  the  new 
comer,  to  ask  him  to  be  seated.  But  Meek  was  not  in  the 
humor  for  sitting.  He  had  not  traveled  express  for  more 
than  two  months,  in  storm  and  cold,  on  foot  and  on  horse- 
back, by  day  and  by  night,  with  or  without  food,  as  it 
chanced,  to  sit  down  quietly  now  and  wait.  So  he  took  a 
few  turns  up  and  down  the  room,  and  seeing  that  the 
Secretary  glanced  at  him  a  little  curiously,  stopped  and 
Sjaid: 

'  "I  should  like  to  see  the  President  immediately.  Just 
tell  him  if  you  please  that  there  is  a  gentleman  from  Ore- 
gon waiting  to  see  him  on  very  important  business." 

••  ^i»..t.<r  ^:'Xf  iioi.)q'.'    •;  .  ., 


INTKUVIKW    WITH    PRESIDENT    POLK. 


451 


At  the  word  Onyon,  the  Secretary  sprang  up,  dashed 
hiri  piifmr  to  the  ground,  and  crying  out  "Uncle  Joe!" 
ciunc  forward  with  botli  hands  extended  to  ijrrect  his  louir 
lost  rehitive, 

"Take  care,  Knox!  don't  come  too  close,"  said  Meek 
stopping  back,  "I'm  ragged,  dirty,  and — lousy." 


4 


t 

"TAKE   CARE,   KNOX." 

But  Walker  seized  his  cousin's  hand,  without  seeming 
feiu-  of  the  consequences,  and  for  a  few  moments  there 
was  an  animated  exchange  of  questions  and  answers,  which 
Meek  at  last  interrupted  to  repeat  his  request  to  be  admit- 
ted to  the  President  without  delay.  Several  times  the  Sec- 
retary turned  to  leave  the  room,  but  as  often  came  back 
with  some  fresh  inquiry,  until  Meek  fairly  refused  to  say 
another  word,  until  he  had  delivered  his  dispatches. 

When  once  the  Secretary  got  away  he  soon  returned 
v.ith  a  request  from  the  President  for  the  appearance  of 
t!ie  Oregon  messenger,  all  other  visitors  being  dismissed 
for  that  day.     Polk's  reception  proved  as  cordial  as  Wtilk- 


■11 


■fe= 
'1 


't^,-k 


t 


452     INTRODUCED    TO    THE    LADIES BADLY    FUIGIITENED. 


I' 


er's  had  been.  lie  seized  the  hand  of  his  newly  found 
relative,  and  welcomed  him  in  his  own  name,  as  well  as 
that  of  messenger  from  the  distant,  much  loved,  and  lour 
neglected  Oregon.  The  interview  lasted  for  a  couple  of 
hours.  Oregon  affairs  and  family  allairs  were  talked  over 
together;  the  President  promising  to  do  all  for  Oregon 
that  he  could  do ;  at  the  same  time  he  bade  Meek  make 
himself  at  home  in  the  rresidential  mansion,  with  true 
southern  hospitality. 

But  Meek,  although  he  had  carried  off  his  poverty  and 
all  his  deficiencies  in  so  brave  a  style  hitherto,  felt  his  as- 
surance leaving  him,  when,  his  errand  performed,  he  stood- 
in  the  presence  of  rank  and  elegance,  a  mere  mountain- 
man  in  ragged  blankets,  whose  only  wealth  consisted  of 
an  order  for  five  hundred  dollars  on  the  Methodist  mission 
in  New  York,  unavailable  for  present  emergencies.  And 
so  he  declined  the  hospitalities  of  the  White  House,  say 
ing  he  "could  make  himself  at  home  in  an  Indian  wigwam 
in  Oregon,  or  among  the  Rocky  Mountains,  but  in  the 
residence  of  the  chief  magistrate  of  a  great  nation,  he  felt 
out  of  place,  and  ill  at  ease."  >    r 

Polk,  however,  would  listen  to  no  refusal,  and  still  fnr 
ther  abashed  his  Oregon  cousin  by  sending  for  Mrs.  Polk 
and  Mrs.  Walker,  to  make  his  acquaintance.     Says  Meek: 

"When  I  heard  the  silks  rustling  in  the  passage,  I  felt 
more  frightened  than  if  a  hundred  Plackfeet  had  whooped 
in  my  ear.  A  mist  came  over  my  eyes,  and  when  Mrs. 
Polk  spoke  to  me  I  couldn't  think  of  anything  to  say  in 
return." 

But  the  ladies  were  so  kind  and  courteous  that  he  soon 
began  to  see  a  little,  though  not  quite  plainly  while  their 
visit  lasted.  Before  the  interview  with  the  President  and 
his  family  was  ended,  the  poverty  of  the  Oregon  envoy 
became  known,  which  led  to  the  immediate  supplying  of 


UIGIITENEn. 


THE   TWO   OREGON    REPRESENTATrVES. 


453 


all  his  wants.  Major  Polk  was  called  in  and  introduced; 
and  to  him  was  deputed  the  business  of  seeiiip^  Meek 
''ffot  up"  in  a  style  creditable  to  himself  und  his  relations. 
Mcok  avers  that  when  ho  had  gone  through  the  hands  of 
tliohiirber  and  tailor,  and  surveyed  himself  in  a  full  length 
mirror,  he  was  at  first  rather  embarrass(!d,  Ixnng  under  the 
imi)rossion  that  he  was  being  introduced  to  a  fasliionablo 
and  decidedly  good-looking  gentleman,  before  whose  over. 
j)()\vcriiig  style  ho  w.as  disposed  to  shrink,  with  the  old  fa- 
miliar feeling  of  being  in  blankets. 

But  Meek  was  not  the  sort  of  man  to  be  long  in  getting 
used  to  a  situation  however  novel  or  difficult.  In  a  very 
short  time  he  was  au  fait  in  the  customs  of  the  capital. 
His  perfect  frankness  led  people  to  laugh  at  his  errors  as 
eccentricities ;  his  good  looks  and  natural  hunhomie  pro- 
cured him  plenty  of  admirers ;  while  his  position  at  the 
White  House  caused  him  to  be  envied  and  lionized  at 
once. 

On  the  day  following  his  arrival  the  President  sent  in  a 
message  to  Congress  accompanied  by  the  memorial  from 
the  Oregon  legislature  and  other  documents  appertaining 
to  the  Oregon  cause.  Meek  was  introduced  to  Benton, 
Oregon's  indefatigable  friend,  and  received  from  him  the 
kindest  treatment;  also  to  Dallas,  President  of  the  Senate; 
Donglas,  Fremont,  Gen.  Houston,  and  all  the  men  who 
had  identified  themselves  with  the  interests  of  the  West. 

It  will  be  remembered  that  only  a  short  time  previous 
to  the  Waiilatpu  massacre  a  delegate  had  left  Oregon  for 
Washington,  by  ship  around  Cape  Horn,  who  had  been 
accredited  by  the  governor  of  the  colony  only,  and  that 
the  legislature  had  subsequently  passed  resolutions  expres- 
sive of  their  disapproval  of  "secret  factions,"  by  which 
was  meant  the  mission  party,  whose  delegate  Mr.  Thorn- 
ton was. 


if 


1. ' ', 


J.4  ? 


\l 


i 
i 


I 


454 


THE   OllLUON    DILL   IN   TlIK   SENATE. 


It  so  linpponcd  that,  by  reason  of  the  commander  oftlie 
Porisiaonth  having  assumod  it  to  be  a  duty  to  convey  Mr. 
Tlioniton  IVop-  La  I'az,  whero  through  thi;  iiifidoHty  of  tlio 
Captain  of  the  Whitto)i,  ho  was  stranded,  ho  was  eimLled 
to  roach  tho  States  ourly  in  the  Spring,  arriving  in  fucta 
week  or  two  before  Mock  readied  Wasliington.  Thus 
Oregon  liad  tv/o  reprcscntativoH,  although  not  outidcd  to 
any :  nor  liad  either  a  right  to  a  seat  in  cither  House;  yet 
to  one  this  courtesy  was  granted,  while  the  two  togctlior 
controlled  more  powerful  influences  than  were  ever  before 
or  since  brought  to  boar  on  the  fate  of  any  single  terri- 
tory of  tho  United  States.  While  Mr.  Thornton  sat  air'^ig 
Senators  as  a  sort  of  consulting  member  or  referee,  but 
without  a  vote;  Meek  had  the  private  ear  of  the  Presi- 
dent, and  mingled  freely  among  members  of  both  Houses, 
in  a  social  character,  thereby  exercising  a  more  immediate 
influence  than  his  more  learned  coadjutor.  Happily  their 
aims  were  not  dissimilar,  although  their  characters  were; 
and  the  proper  and  prudish  mission  delegate,  though  he 
might  often  be  shocked  by  the  private  follies  of  the  legis- 
lative messenger  from  Oregon,  could  find  no  fault  with  the 
manner  in  which  he  discl.cirged  his  duty  to  their  common 
country. 

The  bill  to  admit  Oregon  as  a  territory  which  had  been 
so  long  before  Congress,  and  failed  only  because  certain 
southern  Senators  insisted  on  an  amendment  allowing  slave 
property  to  be  introduced  into  that  territory,  was  again 
under  discussion  in  the  Senate.  The  following  extract 
from  a  speech  of  Benton's,  delivered  May  31st,  before  the 
Senate,  shows  how  his  energies  were  taxed  in  support  of 
the  Oregon  cause — a  cause  which  he  had  fostered  from  its 
infancy,  and  which  he  never  deserted  until  •  his  efforts  to 
extend  the  United  States  government  t"  <he  Pacific  Ocean 
were  crowned  with  success: —     ->«  >--         jp^ 


EXTllACT    I  UOM    HENTON  8   OIIEOON    SPEECH. 


455 


sliiii'Moii.    Thus 


»  Only  flirco  or  four  yciirs  a^o,  the  wbolo  Unitt^d  Stiitcs  H»!einn(I  to  lie  in- 
llaiiiitl  with  a  ilcsirc  lo  ^ot  ponsiicsion  of  ()n';^oii.  It  wan  one  of  tht^  al)Ki»iliin;r 
;iiii|  ii;.'iliiliiit;  niu'stioii!*  of  tins  foiitiiicnt.  To  otitain  oxcln^ivt?  po.s-ti'snioii  of 
Ore;.'!"',  tl"'  t^rcaft'Kt  I'llbrts  woro  inadu,  and  it  was  at  lun^di  ob'aiiu'd.  Wluit 
next?  Alb'r  tills  nctiial  occupation  of  tlic  entire  continent,  and  liavin;;  thus 
(i|ilaiiu'<l  exchi.-.ve  po8m'^^sion  of  On-gon  in  oi'ih-r  that  we  inii.dil  (iuvern  it,  we 
have  seen  Kes.sion  atler  feHsiou  of  Coni^ress  pass  away  witluiut  a  single  thin^f 
licin;;  <1"'>*'  '"f  t'^^'  k"*'"""'"^'"*  o*  •*  country,  to  obtain  posgession  of  which  wo 
Wire  williii},'  to  fio  to  war  with  Kn^dand  I 

Year  after  year,  and  Hessinn  alter  «e.sHion  have  gum  by,  and  to  this  day  tho 
laws  of  the  United  States  have  not  b'jen  extendw'  o.er  that  Territory.  In  tlio 
mean  lime,  a  j^reat  connnnnity  is  (j;rowin^  up  (  ere,  (  'njKised  fit  Uiis  time  of 
twelve  tliousand  souls — persons  from  all  parn.  of  the  worM,  from  Asia  as  well 
thmi  Europe  and  America — and  whieh,  till  this  time,  have  been  jireserved 
ill  order  by  comi)act  amon}>;  tiieinsclves.  fireat  eilbris  have  been  nlallt^  to  pre- 
serve order — most  meritorious  elForts,  which  haM'  evinced  their  anxiety  to 
maintain  their  own  reputation  and  that  of  the  country  to  which  they  bilonjj;. 
Tlitir  elfurts  have  been  eminently  nieritoriou«  ;  but  we  all  know  that  voluntary 
oiivcrnments  cannot  last — that  they  are  temporary  in  their  very  nature,  and 
inii.4  eneoimter  rude  shocks  and  resistance,  untler  which  they  must  fall,  lie- 
siilcs  the  inconvenience  resultin*?  from  the  absence  of  an  or^^anized  {government, 
we  are  to  rcciollect  that  there  never  y»'.t  has  been  a  civili7,e<l  settlement  in  terri- 
tiiry  occupietl  l)y  the  aboriginal  inhabitants,  in  which  a  war  between  the  rJK'cs 
has  not  occurred.  Down  to  the  present  moment,  the  settlers  in  Oregon  had 
e«caped  a  conflict  witJi  the  Indians.  Now  the  war  between  them  is  breaking 
out ;  and  I  cannot  resist  the  conviction,  that  if  tliere  had  been  a  regularly  or- 
(.'anized  government  in  that  country,  innnediately  after  the  treaty  with  Great 
Britain,  with  a  military  force  to  sustain  it, — for  a  government  in  such  ,.  region, 
fo  nmote,  would  bo  nothing  without  military  force, — the  calamities  now  im- 
pomliag  over  that  country  might  have  been  averted. 

But  no  government  was  established;  and  now  all  these  evils  arc  coming 
upon  these  people,  as  everybody  muat  liave  foreseen  thoy  would  come  ;  and  in 
tlie  depih  of  wlmer,  they  send  to  us  a  special  messenger,  who  makes  his  way 
across  the  Rocky  Mountains  at  a  time  when  almost  every  living  thing  perished 
in  the  snow-  -when  the  snow  was  at  such  a  depth  that  nothing  could  penetrate 
ti)  tlie  bottom  of  it.  lie  made  his  way  across,  however,  and  brings  these  com- 
plaints which  wo  now  hear.  They  arc  in  a  suflfering  condition.  Not  a  moment 
of  time  is  to  be  lost.  If  the  bill  were  passed  this  instant, — this  morning,  as 
I  hoped  it  would  be, — it  would  require  tho  utmost  degree  of  vigor  in  the  execu- 
tion of  it  to  be  able  to  send  troops  across  tho  ivocky  Mountains  before  the  sea- 
son of  dctep  snow.  They  sliould  cross  the  mountains  before  the  month  of  Sep- 
tember. I  waa  in  hopes  then,  that  on  this  occasion,  there  would  be  nothing  to 
delay  action — that  we  shoidd  all  have  united  in  deploring  that  for  yciirs  the 
proposition  to  give  these  people  govcrimient  .ind  laws  has  been  defeated  by  the 
introduction  of  a  question  of  no  practical  consequenco,  but  which  has  had  tho 


I, 


i  I    I'  ^' 


•-Vf-.fy-f  • 


456 


EXTRACT    FROM    BENTON  S   OREGON   SPEECH. 


effect  of  depriving  these  people  of  all  government,  and  bringing  about  the 
nias.'sacrcs  which  have  taken  place,  and  in  which  the  benevolent  missionary  has 
Ikllen  in  the  midst  of  his  labors.     All  the  calamities  which  have  taken  nlace  in 
that  country  have  resulted  from  mixing  up  this  (juestion,  which  has  not  a  par- 
tide  of  practical  value,  with  all  the  measures  which  have  been  introduced  for 
the  organization  of  a  government  in  Oregon.     All  the  laws  passed  by  tlie  Con- 
gress of  the  United  States  can  have  no  effect  on  the  question  of  slavery  there. 
In  that  country  there  is  a  law  superior  to  any  which  Congress  can  jjass  on  the 
sul)ject  of  slavery.     Tliere  is  a  law  of  climate,  of  position,  and  of  Nature  her- 
self, against  it.     Besides,  the  people  of  the  country  itself,  by  far  the  larwest 
ninnber  of  whom  have  gone  out  from  slave-holding  States,  many  of  them  from 
the  State  of  Missouri,  in  their  organic  law,  communicated  to  Congress  more 
than  a  year  ago,  and  printed  among  our  documents  at  the  last  session,  declare 
that  the  law  of  nature  is  against  slavery  in  that  region.     Who  would  think  of 
carrying  slaves  to  the  Lake  of  the  Woods  ?  and  what  would  anybody  think  of 
a  law  of  Congress  which  should  say  that  slavery  should  or  should  not  exist 
there  ?     I  was  in  hopes,  then,  that  this  bill  would  be  allowed  to  pass  throuch 
this  morning.     And  it  was  in  order  to  avoid  any  delay  that  I  did  not  make  a 
separate  bill  to  raise  the  regiments  necessary  to  sustain  the  government  tliere, 
I  did  hope,  that  on  this  occasion — when  a  great  political  measure  of  the  highest 
importance  is  pending,  which  has  been  delayed  for  years,  and  which  delay  has 
brought  on  the  massacres  of  which  we  now  hear — this  question,  which  has 
already  produced  these  calamities,  would  not  have  been  introduced,  and  that 
some  other  ojiportunity  would  have  been  taken  for  its  discussion.    Tliere  will 
be  opportunities  enough  for  its  discussion.     Tlie  doors  of  legislation  are  open 
to  it  as  a  separate  measure.     I  trust,  even  now.  that  this  question  will  not  be 
permitted  to  delay  our  action.     The  delay  of  a  few  days  here  will  be  the  delay 
of  a  year  in  Oregon.     Delay  at  all  now,  is  delay  not  for  a  week  or  a  month,  but 
for  a  year,  during  all  which  time  these  calamities  will  continue. 

With  respect  to  the  question  itself,  I  am  ready  to  meet  it  in  every  shape  and 
form.  Let  me  here  say,  that  no  gentleman  on  this  floor  must  assume  to  be  the 
representative  of  the  fifteen  slave-holding  States.  I  assume  to  represent  one- 
no  more  than  one — and  if  I  can  satisfy  my  constituents,  my  duty  is  performed. 
I  invade  no  gentleman's  bailiwick,  and  no  one  shall  invade  mine.  Let  every  one 
speak  for  himself.  Tins  Federal  Government  was  made  for  something  else 
than  to  have  this  pestiferous  question  constantly  thrust  upon  us  to  the  interrup- 
tion of  the  most  important  business.  I  am  willing  to  vote  down  this  question 
at  this  moment ;  I  am  willing  to  take  it  up  and  act  upon  it  in  all  its  extent  and 
bearings,  at  the  proper  time,  when  its  consideration  will  not  interrupt  andj 
destroy  important  measures.  What  I  protest  against  is,  to  have  the  real  busi- 
ness of  the  country — the  pressing,  urgent,  crying  business  of  the  country- 
stopped,  prostrated,  defeated,  by  thrusting  this  tjuestion  ujtou  us.  Wc  read  in 
Holy  Writ,  that  a  certain  people  were  cursed  by  the  plague  of  frogs,  and  that 
the  plague  was  everywhere,    You  could  Dot  look  upon  the  table  but  there  were 


WASHINGTON   SOCIETY CURIOSITY   OP    LADIES. 


457 


fioTS ;  you  could  not  sit  down  at  the  banquet  but  there  were  frogs  ;  you  could 
not  I'D  to  the  bridal  couch  and  lift  the  sheets  but  there  were  frogs  I  We  can 
ftx  nothing,  touch  nothing,  have  no  mesisures  proposed,  without  having  this 
lu'stilc'iKi'  thrust  before  us.  Here  it  is,  this  black  (picstion,  forever  on  the 
t;il)lo,  nil  tlic  nuptial  couch — everywhere !  So  it  was  nui  in  tlie  better  days  of 
tilt;  K('pnl)]ic.  I  remember  the  time  when  no  one  would  have  thought  of  ask- 
iiiir  a  public  man  what  his  views  were  on  the  extension  of  slavery,  any  more 
than  what  was  the  length  of  his  foot ;  and  those  were  happy  days  which,  al- 
tliuujrh  gone  by,  arc  remembered,  and  may,  perhaps,  be  brought  back. 

We  ought  to  vote  down  this  amendment  as  a  thing  which  should  not  bo 
allowed  to  interrupt  our  action.  Our  action  should  not  be  delayed  a  single 
moniont.  This  cruel  war,  which  cannot  continue  in  Oregon  without  extending 
to  California,  must  be  stopped  without  delay.  Oregon  and  California  must  be 
sued  from  the  desolation  of  an  Indian  war.  Whatever  opinions  may  be  en- 
tiitaincd  ii])on  the  subject  of  sliivery,  let  us  agree  on  this  point,  that  we  will 
give  law  and  government  to  the  people  of  Oregon,  and  stop,  if  we  can,  the 
progress  of  this  Indian  war."        .     '    ''     "         ■■  •— • ;  j-/ -.-  ^u;  ^     .  "f'tv 

This  was  the  tone  which  the  friends  of  Oregon  pre- 
served through  that  last  session  of  Congress  in  which  the 
Oregon  bill  was  under  discussion.  --    -  •^ 

In  the  meantime  our  hero  was  making  the  most  of  his 
advantages.  He  went  to  dinners  and  champagne  suppers, 
besides  giving  an  occasional  one  of  the  latter.  At  the 
presidential  levees  he  made  himself  agreeable  to  witty  and 
distinguished  ladies,  answering  innumerable  questions 
about  Oregon  and  Indians,  generally  with  a  veil  of  reserve 
between  himself  and  the  questioner  whenever  the  inqui- 
rio;]  became,  as  they  sometimes  would,  disagreeably  search- 
in,;,  Again  the  spirit  of  perversity  and  mischief  led  him 
t(i  make  his  answers  so  very  direct  as  to  startle  or  bewilder 
the  questioner. 

On  one  occasion  a  lady  with  whom  he  was  promenading 
a  drawing-room  at  some  Senator's  reception,  admiring  his 
handsome  physique  perhaps,  and  wondering  if  any  woman 
owned  it,  finally  ventured  the  question — was  he  married  ? 

"Yes,  indeed,"  answered  Meek,  with  emphasis,  "I  have 
a  wife  and  several  childrep.,."  ,,,  , ,, 


458 


KIT  CARSON THE  CONTINGENT  FUND. 


"Oh  dear,"  exclaimed  the  lady,  "  I  should  think  your 
wife  would  be  so  afraid  of  the  Indians!" 

"Afraid  of  the  Indians!"  exclaimed  Meek  in  his  turn' 
"  why,  madam,  she  is  an  Indian  herself!" 

No  further  remarks  on  the  subject  were  ventured  that 
evening  ;  ai.'d  it  is  doubtful  if  the  lady  did  not  take  liis 
answer  as  a  rebuke  to  her  curiosity  rather  than  the  plain 
truth  that  it  was. 

Meek  found  his  old  comrade,  Kit  Carson,  in  Washington, 
staying  with  Fremont  at  the  house  of  Senator  Benton. 
Kit,  ^vho  had  left  the  mountains  as  poor  as  any  other  of 
the  mountain-men,  had  no  resource  at  that  time  except 
the  pay  furnished  by  Fremont  for  his  services  as  guide  and 
explorer  in  the  California  and  Oregon  expeditions;  where, 
in  fact,  it  was  Carson  and  not  Fremont  who  deserved  fame 
as  a  path-finder.  However  that  may  be,  Carson  had  as 
little  money  as  men  of  his  class  usually  have,  and  needed 
it  as  much.  So  long  as  Meck's  purse  was  supplied,  as  it 
generally  was,  by  some  member  of  the  family  at  the  White 
House,  Carson  could  borrow  from  him.  But  one  being 
quite  as  careless  of  money  as  the  other,  they  were  some- 
times both  out  of  pocket  at  the  same  time.  In  that  case 
the  conversation  was  apt  to  take  a  turn  like  this : 

Carson.     Meek,  let  me  have  some  money,  can't  you? 

Meek     I  hav  'nt  got  any  money.  Kit. 

Carson.     Go  and  get  some. 

Meek.        it,  whar  am  I  to  get  money  from? 

Carson.     Try  the  "contingent  fund,"  can't  you? 

Truth  to  tell  the  contingent  fund  was  made  to  pay  for 
a  good  many  things  not  properly  chargeable  to  the  neces- 
sary expenditures  of  "Envoy  Extraordinary"  like  our 
friend  from  Oregon. 

The  favoritism  with  which  our  hero  was  everywhere  re- 
ceived was  something  remarkable,  even  when  all  the  cir- 


^^^m 


GRAND   RECEPTION   AT  BALTIMORE. 


459 


cumstanccs  of  his  relationsliip  to  the  chief  magistrate,  and 
the  popuharity  of  the  Oregon  question  were  considered. 
Doubtless  the  novelty  of  having  a  bear-fighting  and  In- 
dian-fighting Rocky  Mountain  man  to  lionize,  was  one 
great  secret  of  the  furore  which  greeted  him  wherever  he 
ivent ;  but  even  that  fails  to  account  fully  for  the  enthu- 
siasm he  awakened,  since  mountain-men  had  begun  to  be 
pretty  well  known  and  understood,  from  the  journal  of 
Fremont  and  other  explorers.  It  could  only  have  been 
the  social  genius  of  the  man  which  enabled  him  to  over- 
come the  impediments  of  lack  of  education,  and  the  asso- 
ciations of  half  a  lifetime.  But  whatever  was  the  fortu- 
nate cause  of  his  success,  he  enjoyed  it  to  the  full.  Vie 
took  excursions  about  the  country  in  all  directions, 
petted  and  spoiled  like  any  "curled  darling"  instead  of 
the  six-foot-two  Rocky  Mountain  trapper  that  he  was. 

Ill  June  he  received  an  invitation  to  Baltimore,  tender- 
ed by  the  city  council,  and  was  received  by  that  body 
with  the  mayor  at  its  head,  in  whose  carriage  he  was  con- 
veyed to  Monument  Square,  to  be  welcomed  by  a  thou- 
sand ladies,  smiling  and  showering  roses  upon  him  as  he 
passed.  And  kissing  the  roses  because  he  could  not  kiss 
the  ladies,  he  bowed  and  smiled  himself  past  the  festive 
groups  waiting  to  receive  the  messenger  from  Oregon. 
Music,  dining,  and  the  parade  usual  to  such  occasions 
distinguished  this  day,  which  Meek  declares  to  have  been 
the  proudest  of  his  life  ;  not  denying  that  the  beauty  of 
the  Baltimore  ladies  contributed  chiefly  to  produce  that 
impression. 

On  the  fourth  of  July,  Polk  laid  the  corner  stone  of  the 
National  Monument.  The  occasion  was  celebrated  with 
great  eclat^  the  address  being  delivered  by  Winthrop,  the 
military  display,  and  the  fire-works  in  the  evening  being 
unusually  fine.     In  the  procession  General  Scott  and  staff 


1f^ 


t  n 


r,'t  •-^T'-.."''-i  ..'.'"TV-  -;T^'-r^'-v 


h' 


1 

i 

j 

■ 

! 
1 
1 

1 

»- 

460      THE   LOWELL   FACTORY    GIRLS NATURAL   REGRETS. 

rode  on  one  side  of  the  President's  carriage,  Col.  May  and 
Meek  on  the  other, — Meek  making  a  great  display  of 
horsemanship,  in  which  as  a  mountain-man  he  excelled. 

A  little  later  in  the  summer  Meek  joined  a  party  of  Con- 
gressmen who  were  making  campaign  speeches  in  the 
principal  cities  of  the  north.  At  Lowell,  Mass.,  he  visited 
the  cotton  factories,  and  was  equally  surprised  at  the  ex- 
tent of  the  works,  and  the  number  of  young  women  em- 
ployed in  them.  Seeing  this,  the  forewoman  requested 
him  to  stop  until  noon  and  see  the  girls  come  out.  As 
they  passed  in  review  before  him,  she  asked  if  he  had 
made  his  choice. 

"No,"  replied  the  gallant  Oregonian,  "  it  would  be  im- 
possible to  choose,  out  of  such  a  lot  as  that ;  I  should  have 
to  take  them  all." 

If  our  hero,  under  all  his  gaity  smothered  a  sigh  of  re- 
gret that  he  was  not  at  liberty  to  take  one — a  woman  like 
those  with  whom  for  the  first  time  in  his  life  he  was  privi- 
leged to  associate — who  shall  blame  him  ?     The  kind  of 
life  he  was  living  now  was  something  totally  different  to 
anything  in  the  past.     It  opened  to  his   comprehension 
delightful  possibilities  of  what  might  have  been  done  and 
enjoyed  under  other  circumstances,  yet  which  now  never 
could  be  done  or  enjoyed,  until  sometimes  he  was  rea^^ 
to  fly  from  all  these  allurements,  and  hide  himself  again 
in  th'3  Rocky  Mountains.  Then  again  by  a  desperate  eiFort, 
such  thoughts  were  banished,  and  he  rushed  more  eagerly 
than  before  into  every  pleasure  afforded  by  the  present 
moment,  as  if  to  make  the  present  atone  for  the  past  and 
the  future. 

The  kindness  of  the  ladies  at  the  White  House,  while  it 
was  something  to  be  grateful  for,  as  well  as  to  make  him 
envied,  often  had  the  effect  to  disturb  his  tranquility  by 
the  suggestions  it  gave  rise  to.     Yet  he  was  always  de- 


1' 


REGRETS. 


..•'  I ;  ^  '  1^  -1.  i'f  ^  ■:'.-    ,  j  v' 


M^\ 


Col.  May  and 
at  display  of 
le  excelled. 
L  party  of  Con- 
seches  in  the 
Lss.,  he  visited 
ed  at  the  ex- 
g  women  ein- 
lan  requested 
oine  out.  As 
icd  if  he  had 

would  be  im- 
I  should  have 


.  a  sigh  of  re- 
-a  woman  hke 
he  was  privi- 
The  kind  of 
ly  different  to 
omprehension 
)€en  done  and 
:;h  now  never 
he  was  rea^ 
himself  again 
sperate  effort, 
more  eagerly 
ly  the  present 
•  the  past  and 

ouse,  while  it 
I  to  make  him 
tranquility  by 
as  always  de- 


COMMODORE    WILKES- 


-"  OREGON    LIES." 


4G1 


maridiiiK  i^  always  accepting  it.  So  constantly  was  he 
the  attendant  of  his  lady  cousins  in  public  and  in  private, 
riding  and  driving,  or  sauntering  in  the  gardens  of  the 
presidential  mansion,  that  the  less  favored  among  their 
aquaintances  felt  called  upon  to  believe  themselves  ag- 
irrieved.  Often,  as  the  tall  form  of  our  hero  was  seen 
with  a  lady  on  either  arm  promenading  the  gardens  at 
evening,  the  question  would  pass  among  the  curious  but 
uninitiated — "  Who  is  that '?"     And  the  reply  of  some 

jealous  grumbler  would  be — "It  is  that     Rocky 

Mountain  man,"  so  loud  sometimes  as  to  be  overheard  by 
the  careless  trio,  who  smothercfll  a  laugh  behind  a  hat  or 
a  fin.  ■  ..:■  .'■      '■       ."'     -  :  -      ' 

And  so  passed  that  brief  summer  of  our  hero's  life.  A 
great  deal  of  experience,  of  sight-seeing,  and  enjoyment 
had  been  crowded  into  a  short  few  months  of  time.  He 
had  been  introduced  to  and  taken  by  the  hand  by  the 
most  celebrated  men  of  the  day.  Nor  had  he  failed  to 
meet  with  men  whom  he  had  known  in  the  mountains  and 
in  Oregon.  His  old  employer,  Wilkes,  who  was  ill  in 
Washington,  sent  for  him  to  come  and  tell  "  some  of  those 
Oregon  lies"  for  his  amusement,  and  Meek,  to  humor  him, 
stretched  some  of  his  good  stories  to  the  most  wonderful 
dimensions. 

But  from  the  very  nature  of  the  enjoyment  it  could  not 
last  long ;  it  was  too  vivid  and  sensational  for  constant 
wear.  Feeling  this,  he  began  to  weary  of  Washington, 
and  more  particularly  since  he  had  for  the  last  few  weeks 
been  stopping  away  from  the  White  House.  In  one  of  his 
restless  moods  he  paid  a  visit  to  Polk,  who  detecting  the 

state  of  his  mind  asked  laughingly ., 

"Well,  Meek,  what  do  you  want  now?"    • 

"  I  want  to  be  franked."  '      - 

*'  How  long  will  five  hundred  dollars  last  you  ?" 


hV, 


<  ^ 


462 


EXTRAVAGANT   HABITS. 


"About  as  many  days  as  there  ar'  hundreds,  I  reckon." 

"  You  are  shockingly  extravagant,  Meek.  Where  do 
you  think  all  this  money  is  to  come  from  ?" 

"  It  is  not  my  business  to  know,  Mr.  President,"  replied 
Meek,  laughing,  "  but  it  is  the  business  of  these  United 
States  to  pay  the  expenses  of  the  messenger  from  Oregon 
isn't  it  ?" 

"  I  think  I  will  send  you  to  the  Secretary  of  War  to  be 
franked.  Meek ;  his  frank  is  better  than  mine.  But  no, 
stay  ;  I  will  speak  to  Knox  about  it  this  time.  And  yoii 
must  not  spend  your  money  so  recklessly,  Meek;  it  will 
not  do — it  wall  not  do."    #■ 

Meek  thanked  the  President  both  for  the  money  and  the 
advice,  but  gave  a  champagne  supper  the  next  night,  and 
in  a  week's  time  was  as  empty-handed  as  ever.  Washing- 
ton manners  were  in  some  respects  too  much  like  moun- 
tain manners  for  five  hundred  dollars  to  go  a  great  ways. 


■fvl 


..   '  •     •     ■  i<'}~T     -I    ■'.      ,'     ■ 


MU.    THORNTON    AS    UEPRESENTATIVE    OF    OREGON.       463 


CHAPTER     XL. 


r 


We  must  go  back  a  little  way  and  take  up  the  thread 
of  Oregon's  political  history  as  it  relates  to  the  persons 
and  events  of  which  we  have  .been  writing.  However 
irregular  had  been  the  appointment  of  a  delegate  for 
Oregon,  while  still  unrecognized  by  the  general  govern- 
ment, and  however  distasteful  as  a  party  measure  the  ap- 
pointment of  Mr.  Thornton  had  been  to  a  majority  of  the 
people  of  Oregon,  there  was  nevertheless  sufficient  merit 
ill  his  acts.,  since  events  had  turned  out  as  they  had,  to 
reconcile  even  his  enemies  to  them.  For  what  did  it  con- 
cern the  people  who  procured  or  helped  to  procure  the 
blessings  they  asked  for,  so  only  that  they  were  made  sure 
of  the  blessings.     •'-^■'     ■    li: 

Mr.  Thornton  had  done  what  he  could  in  Washington 
to  secure  for  Oregon  the  things  desired  by  her  citizens. 
Immediately  on  his  arrival  he  had  prepared,  at  the  instance 
of  Mr.  Polk,  a  memorial  to  Congress  setting  forth  the  con- 
dition of  the  country  and  the  wants  of  the  colony.  In 
addition  to  this  he  had  prayed  for  the  passage  of  a  law 
organijiing  a  territorial  government,  and  donating  land- 
claims.  To  be  sure  Congress  had  been  memorialized  on 
these  subjects  for  years,  and  all  to  no  purpose.  But  there 
^vas  a  decided  advantage  in  having  a  man  versed  in  law 
and  conversant  with  legal  forms  as  well  as  territorial  wants, 
to  assist  in  getting  up  the  bills  concerning  Oregon.  Be- 
sides, Thornton  was  a  conscientious  man,  and  would  not 

agree  to  a  fraud. 
30 


I 


4G4 


THE    TERUITOUIAL    DILL    IN    THE    SENATE. 


The  territoriiil  bill  was  gotten  up  among  the  friends  of 
Oregon  in  the  Free-Soil  party,  and  had  incorporated  into 
it  the  ordinance  of  1787,  prohibiting  slavery,  and  this  was 
so  not  only  because  the  free-soilera  desired  it,  but  because 
the  people  of  Oregon  desired  it.  But  a  few  sagacious 
Southern  members  had  conceived  the  idea  of  making  Mr. 
Thornton  responsible  for  the  expunging  of  the  obnoxious 
clause,  by  trying  to  convince  him  that  the  bill  could  never 
be  passed  with  the  ordinance  of  1787  in  it,  and  that  would 
he,  Thornton,  but  consent  to  have  it  stricken  out,  they 
were  assured  that  the  friends  of  free-soil  would  allow  it  to 
pass  for  the  sake  of  waiting,  expectant  Oregon,  So  rea- 
soned Calhoun  and  others. 

Thornton,  however,  was  both  too  wise  and  too  faithful 
to  be  humbugged  in  that  specious  manner.  He  assured 
Mr.  Calhoun  that  in  the  first  place  he  had  no  authority  to 
consent  to  the  expunging  of  the  ordinance  of  1787;  in 
the  second  place,  that  the  people  of  Oregon  would  wait 
for  a  territorial  government  until  they  could  obtain  one 
which  promised  them  free  institutions ;  and  in  the  third 
place,  that  he  did  not  believe  the  free-soil  party  would  ever 
allow  the  bill  to  pass,  amended  as  Mr.  Calhoun  proposed; 
therefore  that  had  he  the  authority  to  consent  to  the  amend- 
ment, he  should  gain  nothing,  but  lose  all  by  doing  so. 

Thus,  through  the  almost  entire  summer,  the  friends 
and  the  enemies  of  free-soil  quarreled  and  schemed  over 
Oregon.  Not  that  any  were  really  opposed  to  the  exten- 
sion of  the  Government  over  that  territory,  but  only  that 
the  Southern  members  objected  to  more  free  soil. 

The  President  was  very  anxious  that  the  bill  should 
pass  in  some  shape  during  his  administration.  Benton  of 
Missouri,  was  eager  for  its  passage  as  it  was.  Butler  of 
South  Carolina,  fiercely  opposed  to  it.  Numerous  were 
the  skirmishes  which  these  two  Senators  had  over  the 


thl:  uill  opposed  by  southkhnkhs. 


4G5 


Oregon  question  ;  and  a  duel  would,  in  one  instance,  havo 
lesultod,  had  not  the  arrest  of  the  parties  put  a  termina- 
tion to  the  alViiir.        .  .    .  ,  .         .       >    , 

Tiie  land  bill  too,  gave  considerable  trouble;  not  from 
jiiiy  opposition  it  encountered,  but  because  nobody  knew 
I,()W  much  land  to  give  each  settler.  Some  Congressmen, 
in  the  magnificence  of  their  generosity  and  compassion, 
were  for  granting  one  thousand  acres  to  every  white  male 
settler  of  the  territory.  The  committee  who  had  this  bill 
ill  liand,  on  consulting  the  two  Oregon  representatives, 
were  informed  that  the  proposed  donation  was  altogether 
tuo  largo,  and  it  was  subsequently  reduced. 

The  close  of  the  session  was  at  hand  and  nothing  had 
i)een  done  except  to  talk.  Congress  was  to  adjourn  at 
noon  on  Monday,  August  14th,  and  it  was  now  Saturday 
the  12th.  The  friends  of  Oregon  were  anxious;  the  two 
waiting  Oregonians  nearly  desperate.  On  this  morning 
of  the  12th,  the  friends  of  the  bill,  under  Benton's  lead,  de- 
termined upon  obtaining  a  vote  on  the  final  passage  of  the 
bill;  resolving  that  they  would  not  yield  to  ^..d  usual  mo- 
tions for  delay  and  adjournments,  but  that  they  would,  if 
necessary,  sit  until  twelve  o'clock  Monday. 

Oil  the  other  hand,  the  southern  members,  finding  that 
110  motion  for  adjournment  could  be  made  to  prevail,  But- 
ler, of  South  Carolina,  moved  that  the  Senate  go  into  ex- 
ecutive session.  This  was  done  because  under  the  rules 
of  the  Senate,  the  Oregon  bill  would  necessarily  give 
place  to  the  business  of  the  executive  session.  And  the 
business  to  which  Senator  Butler  proposed  to  call  the  at- 
tention of  the  senate  was  certain  conduct  of  the  gentle- 
man from  Missouri,  which  he  characterized  as  dishonorable. 

At  the  word  "  dishonorable  "  Benton  sprang  to  bis  feet, 
exclaiming — "You  lie,  sir!  you  lie! !  I  cram  the  lie  down 
your  throat! ! !"  at  the  same  time  advancing  toward  Butler 


4G6 


SCENE   BETWEEN   Bim.ER    AND    UENTOX. 


;       1 
■   t 

■  1 

i 

i 

i 

with  his  fist  clenched  and  niiscd  in  a  threatening  manner 
IJntler  on  his  part  seemed  very  willing  to  engage  in  a  per- 
sonal conflict,  awaiting  his  antagonist  with  the  genuine 
game  look  which  has  formerly  been  supposed  to  be  one 
of  the  signs  of  good  southern  blood.         ■    " 

But  a  fight  on  the  floor  of  the  Senate  between  two  of 
its  white-haired  members  could  not  be  sufl'ered  to  go  on 
the  combatants  being  separated  by  the  other  Senators. 
who  crowded  in  between.  The  eyes  of  Butler  burned 
fiercely  as  he  said  to  Benton  over  the  heads  of  his  of- 
ficious friends, — 

"I  will  sec  you,  sir,  at  another  time  and  place!" 

"Very  well,  sir;"  returned  Benton:  "but  you  will  do 
well  to  understand  that  when  I  fight,  I  fight  for  a  fu- 
neral!" 

That  this  affair  did  not  terminate  in  <i  funeral  was 
probably  owing  to  the  arrest  of  the  parties. 

At  ten  o'clock  Saturday  evening,  order  having  been  re- 
stored, and  no  adjournment  having  yet  prevailed,  Senator 
Foote  of  Mississippi,  arose  and  commenced  to  speak  in  a 
manner  most  irritatingly  drawling  and  dull ;  saying  thai 
since  there  was  to  be  no  adjournment  before  twelve  o'clock 
Monday  noon,  he  proposed  to  entertain  to  the  best  of  his 
ability  the  grave  deliberative  body  before  him. 

Commencing  at  the  creation  of  Adam,  he  gave  the  Bi- 
ble Story — the  creation  of  Eve ;  the  fall  of  man ;  the  his- 
tory of  the  children  of  Israel ;  the  stories  of  the  proph- 
ets ;  ecclesiastical  history, — only  yielding  the  floor  for  a 
motion,  at  intervals  of  an  hour  each,  continuing  to  drawl 
through  the  time  hour  after  hour. 

Sleepy  senators  betook  themselves  to  the  anteroom  to 
lunch,  to  drink,  to  talk  to  the  waiting  ones,  and  to  sleep. 
But  whenever  a  motion  w.as  made,  a  page  aroused  the 
sleepers  and  they  took  their  seats  and  voted. 


SE.VATOll    FOOTk'b   LECTURE — THE   LiLL   PASBEI).        407 


(1  funeral  was 


Thus  \vor(3  the  nij^lit  away.  The  Sabbath  iiiorniiig'H  sun 
arose,  and  atill  Footo  was  in  the  midst  of  his  BibU)  disqui- 
HJlions.  At  lenj^th,  two  hours  after  sunrise,  a  consultation 
was  held  between  Butler,  Mason,  Calhoun,  Davis  and 
Foote,  which  resulted  in  the  announcement  that  no  further 
opposition  would  be  offered  to  taking  the  vote  upon  the 
liiiiil  passage  of  the  Oregon  bill.  The  vote  was  then  ta- 
ken, the  bill  passed,  and  the  weary  senate  adjourned,  to 
uioct  again  on  Monday  for  a  final  adjournment. 

After  ihe  adjournment  on  Sunday  morning,  Benton  in 
alhuliiig  to  the  scene  between  himself  and  the  senator 
I'roiu  South  Carolina,  said,  "he  did  not  blame  Judge  But- 
ler so  much  as  he  might ;   because  that    scoundrel 

Calhoun  was  urging  Butler  to  it,  while  he  himself  sat  say- 
ing nothing,  and  doing  nothing,  but  looking  as  demure  as 
a  courtesan  at  a  christening."  i.,     ,     ,         ..         -.; 

Truly  "such  are  the  compliments  that  pass  when  gen- 
tlemen meet."    '-(v^'v:;   t;,    ::...>      '/-li--.' .'-^  'J.,,.*.  ■  ,  ....       . 

The  Land  bill,  or  Donation  act,  as  it  is  generally  known, 
failed  of  being  passed  at  this  session,  simply  because  it 
had  to  wait  for  the  Territorial  bill  to  be  passed,  being 
supplementary  to  it,  and  because  after  the  passage  of  that 
bill  there  was  no  time  to  take  up  the  other. 

As  Thornton  had  been  chiefly  instrumental  in  getting 
the  Donation  bill  into  shape,  it  was  a  severe  disappoint- 
ment, in  not  having  it  passed  at  the  same  session  with  the 
Territorial  bill,  and  having  to  return  to  Oregon  with- 
out this  welcome  present  to  the  people  of  the  new  ter- 
ritory. 

Collamer  of  Vermont,  sympathizing  with  the  failure  of 
the  Donation  Law,  proposed  to  T  .ornton  to  draw  up  a 
new  bill  including  some  amendments  suggested  by  him, 
and  to  forward  the  same  to  his  ('Collamer's)  address,  prom- 
ising to  see  what  could  be  done  with  it  thereafter.     This 


ft  * 

i 

jl^l^M 


468 


FAILURE   OF   THE    LAND    BILL. 


-■■1: 


Thornton  did,  and  also  carried  a  copy  of  it  home  to  Ore- 
gon, and  placed  it  in  the  hands  of  Oregon's  first  delegate 
to  Congress,  who,  after  making  a  few  alterations  in  the 
bill,  adopted  and  claimed  it  for  his  own.  Tiie  bill  thus 
amended  and  re-amended,  became  a  law  in  September 
1850 ;  and  of  that  law  we  shall  have  occasion  to  speak 
hereafter. 


'■     ■     ■^■■%xi{) 

'!/nj 

■     f .' 

■  f. 


^  '-.     <^'l    -Tf 


rr 


I'll 


,'.  ..     ■■■'  -Ci.l' 


I       i 


'7  r^  /, 


I'l  ■■^  I'-'      <•- 

' );,'.'.  * 

■           ; 

."•*'  -■f.f.X-: 

:■■■'}.'    '.»-• 

fJs 

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'J. 

•  '.>.?  '. 

.    ^dom 

'  *'■  ,. ,  ^ 

!••-  '  ■ 

If 

MEEK   APPOINTED    U.    a.    MAliaUAL   FOii   OliEGON. 


469 


CHAPTER    XLI, 


1848-9.  The  long  suspense  ended,  Meek  prepared  to 
return  Lo  Oregon,  if  not  without  some  regrets,  at  the  same 
time  not  unwillingly.  His  restless  temper,  and  life-long 
habits  of  unrestrained  freedom  began  to  revolt  against  the 
conventionality  of  his  position  in  Washington.  Besides, 
in  appointing  officers  for  the  new  territory,  Polk  had  made 
him  United  States  Marshal,  than  which  no  office  could 
have  suited  him  better,  and  "le  was  as  prompt  to  assume 
the  discharge  of  its  duties,  as  all  his  life  he  had  been  to 
inidortake  any  duty  to  which  his  fortunes  assigned  him. 

On  the  20th  of  August,  only  six  days  after  the  passage 
of  the  territorial  bill,  he  received  his  papers  from  Buchan- 
an, and  set  off"  for  Bedford  Springs,  whither  the  family 
from  the  White  House  were  flown  to  escape  from  the  suf- 
focating ai.'*  of  Washington  in  August.  He  had  brought 
his  papers  to  be  signed  by  Polk,  and  being  expected  by 
the  President  found  everything  arranged  for  his  speedy 
de|)arture  ;  Polk  even  ordering  a  seat  for  him  in  the  up- 
coming coach,  by  telegraph.  On  learning  this  from  the 
President,  at  dinner,  when  the  band  was  playing.  Meek 
turned  to  the  leader  and  ordered  him  to  play  "  Sweet 
Home,"  much  to  the  amusement  of  his  lady  cousins,  who 
had  their  own  views  of  the  sweets  of  a  home  in  Oregon. 
A  hurried  farewell,  spoken  to  each  of  his  friends  sepa- 
rately, and  Oregon's  new  Marshal  was  ready  to  proceed 
on  his  long  journey  toward  the  Pacific. 


■  r^w-  ■ 


470 


PAY  OF  THE  DELEGATES THE  LION  S  SHAEE. 


(•:    " 


The  occasion  of  Polk's  haste  in  the  matter  of  gettiiiff 
Meek  started,  was  his  anxiety  to  have  the  Oregon  govern- 
ment become  a  fact  before  the  expiration  of  his  term  of 
office.  The  appointment  of  Governor  of  the  new  terri- 
tory had  been  offered  to  Shields,  and  declined.  Another 
commission  had  been  made  out,  appointing  General  Jo- 
seph Lane  of  Indiana,  Governor  of  Oregon,  and  tlie  com- 
mission was  that  day  signed  by  the  President  and  given 
to  Meek  to  be  delivered  to  Lane  in  the  shortest  possible 
time.  His  last  words  to  the  Marshal  on  parting  were— 
"  God  bless  you,  Meek.  Tell  Lane  to  have  a  territorial 
government  organized  during  my  administration." 

Of  the  ten  thousand  dollars  appropriated  by  Congress 
"to  be  expended  under  the  direction  of  the  President,  in 
payment  for  services  and  expenses  of  such  persons  as  had 
been  engaged  by  the  jrovisional  government  of  Oregon 
in  conveying  communications  to  and  from  the  United 
States;  and  for  purchase  of  presents  for  such  Indian 
tribes  as  the  peace  and  quiet  of  the  country  required"— 
Thornton  received  two  thousand  six  hundred  dollars, 
Meek  seven  thousand  four  hundred,  and  the  Indian  tribes 
none.  Whether  the  President  believed  that  the  peace 
and  quiet  of  the  country  did  not  require  presents  to  be 
made  to  the  Indians,  or  whether  family  credit  required 
that  Meek  should  get  the  lion's  share,  is  not  known.  How- 
ever that  may  be,  our  hero  felt  himself  to  be  quite  rich, 
and  proceeded  to  get  rid  of  his  superfluity,  as  will  hereafter 
be  seen,  with  his  customary  prodigality  and  enjoyment  of 
the  present  without  regard  to  the  future. 

Before  midnight  on  the  day  of  his  arrival  at  the  springs, 
Meek  was  on  his  way  to  Indiana  to  see  General  Lane.  Ar- 
riving at  the  Newburg  landing  one  morning  at  day-break, 
he  took  horse  immediately  for  the  General's  residence  at 
Newburg,  and  presented  him  with  hia  commission  soon 


THE   GOVERNOR   AND   MARSHAL   START   FOR    OREGON.       471 


after  breakflist.  Lane  sat  writing,  Avhcn  Meek,  introducing 
himself,  laid  his  papers  before  him.  '  - 

"Do  jou  accept?"  asked  Meek.     '■'■  •   i  • 

"Yes,"  answered  Lane.  '"     • 

"How  soon  can  you  be  ready  to  start?"  '       ' 

"111  fifteen  minutes!"  answered  Lane,  with  military 
promptness.  ;    -  ••     -  ;  -t. 

Three  days,  however,  were  actually  required  to  make  the 
necessary  p'-eparations  for  leaving  his  farm  and  proceed- 
ing to  the  most  remote  corner  of  the  United  States  terri- 
tory. 

At  St.  Louis  they  were  detained  one  day,  waiting  for  a 
boat  to  Leavenworth,  where  they  expected  to  meet  their 
escort.  This  one  day  was  too  precious  to  be  lost  in  wait- 
ing by  so  business-like  a  person  as  our  hero,  who,  when 
nothing  more  important  was  to  be  done  generally  was 
found  trying  to  get  rid  of  his  money.  So,  on  this  occa- 
sion, after  having  disburdened  himself  of  a  small  amount 
in  treating  the  new  Governor  and  all  his  acquaintances,  he 
entered  into  negotiations  with  a  peddler  who  was  impor- 
tuning the  passengers  to  buy  everything,  from  a  jack- 
knife  to  a  silk  dress. >^^-^('   ■■■..-AM'^'-rj:,^'^.     iAJii-ra  w    ,  ^mm 

Finding  that  Nat.  Lane,  the  General's  son,  wanted  a 
knife,  but  was  disposed  to  beat  down  the  price,  Meek 
made  an  offer  for  the  lot  of  a  dozen  or  two,  and  thereby 
prevented  Lane  getting  one  at  any  price.  Not  satisfied 
with  this  investment,  he  next  made  a  purchase  of  three 
whole  pieces  of  silk,  at  one  dollar  and  fifty  cents  per  yard. 
At  this  stage  of  the  transaction  General  Lane  interfered 
?uffieiently  to  inquire  "  what  he  expected  to  do  with  that 

stuff  :^" 

"  Can't  tell,"  answered  Meek  ;  "  but  I  reckon  it  is  worth 
the  money." 
'•  Better  save  your  money,"  said  the  more  prudent  Lane. 


ill 


m        V 

*  H-lIf  1 

'   t  Jim 

i  j  'iiS 

472 


THE    ESCORT    OF    KIFLEMEN THE    ROUTE. 


U:    \ 


But  the  incorrigible  spendthrift  only  laughed,  and  threat- 
ened to  buy  out  the  Jew's  entire  stock,  if  Lane  persisted 
in  preaching  economy. 

At  St.  Louis,  besides  his  son  Nat.,  Lane  was  met  by 
Lieut.  Hawkins,  who  was  appointed  to  the  command  of 
the  escort  of  twenty -five  riflemen,  and  Dr.  Hayden,  sur- 
geon of  the  company.  This  party  proceeded  to  Leaven- 
worth, the  point  of  starting,  where  the  wagons  and  men 
of  Hawkins'  command  awaited  them.  At  this  place,  Meek 
was  met  by  a  brother  and  two  sisters  who  had  come  to 
look  on  him  for  the  first  time  in  many  years.  The  two 
days'  delay  which  was  necessary  to  get  the  train  ready  for 
a  start,  afforded  an  opnor  amity  for  this  family  reunion,  the 
last  that  might  ever  occur  between  its  widely  separated 
branches,  new  shoots  from  which  extend  at  this  day  from 
Virginia  to  Alabama,  and  from  Tennessee  to  California 
and  Oregon.  .  .   ,.   ..  ..r,.,.,. 

By  the  10th  of  September  the  new  government  was  on 
its  way  to  Oregon  in  the  persons  of  Lane  and  Meek.  The 
whole  company  of  officers,  men,  and  teamsters,  numbered 
about  fifty -five ;  the  wagons  ten  ;  and  riding-horses,  an 
extra  supply  for  each  rider. 

The  route  taken,  with  the  object  to  avoid  the  snows  of 
a  northern  winter,  was  from  Leavenworth  to  Santa  Fe, 
and  thence  down  the  Rio  Grande  to  near  El  Paso ;  thence 
northwesterly  by  Tucson,  in  Arizona;  thence  to  the 
Pimas  village  on  the  Gila  River  ;  following  the  Gila  to  its 
junction  with  the  Colorado,  thence  northwesterly  again  to 
the  Bay  of  San  Pedro  in  California.  From  this  place  the 
company  were  to  proceed  by  ship  to  San  Francisco ;  and 
thence  again  by  ship  to  the  Columbia  River. 

On  the  Santa  Fe  trail  they  met  the  army  returning 
from  Mexico,  under  Price,  and  learned  from  them  that 
they  could  not  proceed  with  wagons  beyond  Santa  Fe. 


-yf-- 


PRICE  S    ARMY AX    ADVENTURE. 


473 


The  lateness  of  the  season,  although  it  was  not  attended 
^vitli  snow,  as  on  the  northern  route  it  would  have  been, 
subjected  the  travelers 'nevertheless  to  the  strong,  cold 
^viiuls  which  blow  over  the  vast  extent  of  open  country 
between  the  Missouri  River  and  the  high  mountain  range 
which  forms  the  water-shed  of  the  continent.  It  also 
iniule  it  more  difficult  to  subsist  the  animals,  especially 
lifter  meeting  Price's  army,  which  had  already  SAvept  the 
country  bare. 

On  coming  near  Santa  Fe,  Meek  was  riding  ahead  of 
his  party,  when  he  had  a  most  unexpected  encounter. 
Seeing  a  covered  traveling  carriage  drawn  up  under  the 
shade  of  some  trees  growing  beside  a  small  stream,  not 
far  off  from  the  trail,  he  resolved,  with  his  usual  love  of 
adventure,  to  discover  for  himself  the  character  of  the 
proprietor.  But  as  he  drew  nearer,  he  discovered  no 
one,  although  a  camp-table  stood  under  the  trees,  spread 
with  refreshments,  not  only  of  a  solid,  but  a  fluid  nature. 
The  sight  of  a  bottle  of  cognac  induced  him  to  dismount, 
and  he  was  helping  himself  to  a  liberal  glass,  when  a 
head  was  protruded  from  a  covering  of  blankets  inside 
the  carriage,  and  a  heavy  bass  voice  was  heard  in  a  polite 
protest:  '"    -  %>=  .v.,  ....-y  .^^ivr  .jw^.^  .^c 

"  Seems  to  me,  stranger,  you  are  making  free  with  my 
property!"  :  ;       ,-.;,,-..„- 

"  Here's  to  you,  sir,"  rejoined  the  purloiner  ;  "  it  isn't 
often  I  find  as  good  brandy  as  that," — holding  out  the 
glass  admiringly, — "  but  when  I  do,  I  make  it  a  point  of 
honor  not  to  pass  it." 

"May  I  inquire  your  name,  sir?"  asked  the  owner  of 
tlie  brandy,  forced  to  smile  at  the  good-humored  audacity 
of  his  guest. 

"  I  couldn't  refuse  to  give  my  name  after  that," — re- 
placing the  £;lass  on  the  table, — "and  I  now  introduce 


222 


tr 


It 


474 


A   PLEASANT   AND    UNEXPECTED    ENCOUNTER. 


myself  as  Joseph  L.  Meek  Esq.,  Marshal  of  Oregon,  on 
my  way  from  Washington  to  o':sist  General  Lane  in  estab- 
lishing a  territorial  Government  west  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains. " 

"Meek! — what,  not  the  Joe  Meek  I  have  heard  iny 
brothers  tell  so  much  about  ?" 

"  Joe  Meek  is  my  name ;  but  whar  did  your  brothers 
know  me  ?"  inquired  our  hero,  mystified  in  his  turn. 

"  I  think  you  must  have  known  Captain  William  Sub- 
lette and  his  brother  Milton,  ten  or  twelve  years  ago,  in 
the  Eocky  Mountains,"  said  the  genileman,  getting  out  of 
the  carriage,  and  approaching  Meek  with  extended  hand. 

A  delighted  recognition  now  took  place.  From  Solo- 
mon Sublette,  the  owner  of  the  cirriage  and  the  cognac, 
Meek  learned  many  particulars  of  the  life  and  death  of 
his  former  leaders  in  the  mountains.  Neither  of  them 
were  then  living ;  but  this  younger  brother,  Solomon, 
had  inherited  Captain  Sublette's  wife  and  wealth  at  the 
same  time.  .After  these  explanations,  Mr.  Sublette  raised 
the  curtains  of  the  carriage  again,  and  assisted  to  descend 
from  it  a  lady,  whom  he  introduced  as  his  wife,  and  who 
exhibited  much  gratification  in  becoming  acquainted  with 
the  hero  of  many  a  tale  recited  to  her  by  her  former  hus- 
band. Captain  Sublette. 

In  the  midst  of  this  pleasant  exchange  of  reminiscences, 
the  remainder  of  Meek's  party  rode  up,  were  introduced, 
and  invited  to  regale  themselves  on  the  fine  liquors  with 
which  Mr.  Sublette's  carriage  proved  to  be  well  furnished. 
This  little  adventure  gave  our  hero  much  pleasure,  as 
furnishing  a  link  between  the  past  and  present,  and  bring- 
ing freshly  to  mind  many  incidents  already  beginning  to 
fade  in  his  memory.        v^    .    ^,-^    .,:, 

At  Santa  Fe,  the  train  stopped  to  be  overhauled  and 
reconstructed.      The  wagons  having  to  be  abandoned, 


COUNTER. 


DESERTION    OF    SOLDIERS — DROUTH. 


475 


their  contents  had  to  be  packed  on  mules,  after  the  man- 
ner of  mountain  or  of  Mexican  travel  and  transportation. 
This  change  accomplished,  with  as  little  delay  as  possible, 
the  train  proceeded  without  any  other  than  the  usual 
difficulties,  as  far  as  Tucson,  when  two  of  the  twenty-five 
riflemen  deserted,  having  become  suddenly  enamored  of 
liberty,  in  the  dry  and  dusty  region  of  southern  Arizona. 
Lieutenant  Hawkins,  immediately  on  discovering  the 
desertion,  dispatched  two  men,  well  armed,  to  compel 
their  return.  One  of  the  men  detailed  for  this  duty  be- 
longed to  the  riflemen,  but  the  other  was  an  American, 
who,  with  a  company  of  Mexican  packers,  had  joiaed  the 
train  at  Santa  Fe,  and  was  acting  in  the  capacity  of  pilot. 
Ill  order  to  fit  out  this  volunteer  for  the  service,  always 
dangerous,  of  retaking  deserting  soldiers.  Meek  had  lent 
him  his  Colt's  revolvers.  It  was  a  vain  precaution,  how- 
ever, both  the  men  being  killed  in  attempting  to  capture 
the  deserters  ;  and  Meek's  pistols  were  never  more  heard 
of,  having  fallen  into  the  murderous  hands  of  the  run- 


aways. 


'ia-'   ■'l!^^^'r^*• 


•im 


Drouth  now  began  to  be  the  serious  evil  with  which 
the  travelers  had  to  contend.  From  the  Pimas  villages 
■westward,  it  continually  grew  worse,  the  animals  being 
greatly  reduced  from  the  want  both  of  food  and  water. 
At  the  crossing  of  the  Colorado,  the  animals  had  to  be 
crossed  over  by  swimming,  the  officers  and  men  by  rafts 
made  of  bulrushes.  Lane  and  Meek  being  the  first  to  be 
ferried  over,  were  landed  unexpectedly  in  the  midst  of  a 
Yuma  village.  The  Indians,  however,  gave  them  no 
trouble,  and,  except  the  little  artilice  of  drowning  some 
of  the  mules  at  the  crossing,  in  order  to  get  their  flesh  to 
eat,  committed  neither  murders  nor  thefts,  nor  any  out- 
rage whatever. 

It  was  quite  as  well  for  the  unlucky  mules  to   be 


\i 


476 


DEMORALIZATION    OF    THE    ESCORT. 


i-1 


Xi: 


',    '                     ^ 

'                                *t 

'  i          1 

!                                I 

:     1        .                1; 

i        1     i 

1 

;      1 

i        ! 
t 


drowned  and  eaten  as  it  was  for  their  fellows  to  travel  on 
over  the  arid  desert  before  them  until  they  starved  aiul 
perished,  which  they  nearly  all  did.  From  the  Colorado 
on,  the  company  of  Lieut.  Hawkins  became  thoroughly 
demoralized.  Not  only  would  the  animals  persist  in 
dying,  several  in  a  day,  but  the  soldiers  also  persisted  in 
deserting,  until,  by  the  time  he  reached  the  coast,  his  for- 
lorn hope  was  reduced  to  three  men.  But  it  was  not  the 
drouth  in  their  case  which  caused  the  desertions :  it  was 
rumors  which  they  heard  everywhere  along  the  route,  of 
mines  of  gold  and  silver,  where  they  flattered  themselves 
they  could  draw  better  pay  than  from  Uncle  Sam's  coffers. 

The  same  difficulty  from  desertion  harassed  Lieutenant- 
Colonel  Loring  in  the  following  summer,  when  he  at- 
tempted to  establish  a  line  of  posts  along  the  route  to 
Oregon,  by  the  way  of  Forts  Kearney,  Laramie,  and 
through  the  South  Pass  to  Fort  Hall.  His  mounted  rifle 
regiment  dwindled  down  to  almost  nothing.  At  one 
time,  over  one  hundred  men  deserted  in  a  body :  and  al- 
though he  pursued  and  captured  seventy  of  them,  he 
could  not  keep  them  from  deserting  again  at  the  first 
favorable  moment.  The  bones  of  many  of  those  gold- 
seeking  soldiers  were  left  on  the  plains,  where  wolves  had 
stripped  the  flesh  from  them ;  and  many  more  finally  had 
rude  burial  at  the  hands  of  fellow  gold-seekers :  but  few 
indeed  ever  won  or  enjoyed  that  for  which  they  risked 
everything. 

On  arriving  at  Cook's  wells,  some  distance  beyond  the 
Colorado,  our  travelers  found  that  the  water  at  this  place 
was  tainted  by  the  body  of  a  mule  which  had  lost  its  Hfe 
some  days  before  in  endeavoring  to  get  at  the  water. 
This  was  a  painful  discovery  for  the  thirsty  party  to  make, 
However,  there  being  no  water  for  some  distance  ahead, 
General  Lane  boiled  some  of  it,  and  made  coffee  of  it, 


IT. 


ws  to  travel  on 
cy  starved  and 
a  the  Colorado 
me  thoroughly 
iials  persist  in 
so  persisted  in 
e  coast,  his  for- 
i  it  was  not  the 
ortions :  it  was 
?  the  route,  of 
red  themselves 
e  Sam's  coffers. 
sed  Lieutenant- 
,  when  he  at- 
g  the  route  to 

Laramie,  and 
i  mounted  rifle 
ing.  At  one 
body :  and  al- 
of  them,  lie 
in  at  the  first 
of  those  gold- 

YQ  wolves  had 
Dre  finally  had 

vers :  but  few 
zh  they  risked 

3e  beyond  the 
;r  at  this  place 
id  lost  its  fife 
at  the  water. 
)arty  to  make, 
istance  ahead, 
e  coffee  of  it, 


Till 


I'AllTY    ON    FOOT — EXTUEME   SUFFEUIXa.  477 


rcniiirkiiig  that  "maggots  were   more   easily   swallowed 
coukcd  than  raw!" 

And  liero  the  writer,  and  no  doubt,  the  reader  too,  is 
coiiipi'Ued  to  make  a  reflection.  Was  the  office  of  Gover- 
nor of  a  Territory  at  fifteen  liuiidred  dollars  a  year,  and 
Indian  agent  at  fifteen  hundred  more,  worth  a  journey  of 
over  three  thousand  miles,  chiefly  by  land,  even  allowing 
that  there  had  been  no  maggots  in  the  water?  Quien 
mhe? 

Not  far  from  this  locality  our  party  came  upon  one  hun- 
dred wagons  abandoned  by  Major  Graham,  who  had  not 
been  able  to  cross  the  desert  with  them.  Proceeding  on- 
ward, the  riders  eventually  found  themselves  on  foot,  there 
being  only  a  few  animals  left  alive  to  transport  the  bag- 
gage that  could  not  be  abandoned.  So  great  was  their 
extremity,  that  to  quench  their  thirst  the  stomach  of  a 
mule  was  opened  to  get  at  the  moisture  it  contained.  In 
the  horror  and  pain  of  the  thirst-fever.  Meek  renewed 
again  the  sufferings  he  had  undergone  years  before  in  the 
deserts  inhabited  by  Diggers,  and  on  the  parched  plains 
of  the  Snake  River.  ■    ■ 

About  the  middle  of  January  the  Oregon  Government, 
which  had  started  out  so  gaily  fi'om  Fort  Leavenworth, 
arrived  weary,  dusty,  foot-sore,  famished,  and  suffering,  at 
William's  Ranch  on  the  Santa  Anna  River,  which  empties 
into  the  Bay  of  San  Pedro.  Here  they  were  very  kindly 
received,  and  their  wants  ministered  to. 

At  this  place  Meek  developed,  in  addition  to  his  various 
accomplishments,  a  talent  for  speculation.  While  over- 
hauling his  baggage,  the  knives  and  the  silk  which  had 
been  purchased  of  the  peddler  in  St.  Louis,  were  brought 
to  light.  No  sooner  did  the  senoritas  catch  a  glimpse  of 
the  shining  fabrics  than  they  went  into  raptures  over  them, 
after  the  fashion  of  their  sex.     Seeing  the  state  of  mind 


478 


SPECULATION   IN    SILKS   AND   JACKKNIVES. 


to  which  these  raptures,  if  unheeded,  were  likely  to  re- 
duce the  ladies  of  his  house,  Mr.  Williams  ai)proaclic'(l 
Meek  delicately  on  tlie  subject  of  purchase.  But  Meek 
in  the  first  flush  of  speculative  shrewdness  dechired  that 
as  he  had  bought  the  goods  for  his  own  wife,  he  could  not 
find  it  in  his  heart  to  sell  them. 

However,  as  the  senoritas  were  likely  to  prove  inconsola- 
ble, Mr.  Williams  again  mentioned  the  desire  of  his  family 
to  be  clad  in  silk,  and  the  great  difTiculty,  nay,  impossi- 
bility, of  obtaining  the  much  coveted  fabric  in  that  part 
of  the  world,  and  accompanied  his  remarks  with  an  otFer 
of  ten  dollars  a  yard  for  the  lot.  At  this  magnificent  ofTer 
our  hero  affected  to  be  overcome  by  regard  for  the  feel- 
ings of  the  senoritas,  and  consented  to  sell  his  dollar  and 
a-half  silks  for  ten  dollars  per  yard.  .: 

In  the  same  manner,  finding  that  knives  were  a  desira- 
ble article  in  that  country,  very  much  wanted  by  miners 
and  others,  he  sold  out  his  dozen  or  two,  for  an  ounce 
each  of  gold-dust,  netting  altogether  the  convenient  little 
profit  cf  about  five  hundred  dollars.  When  Gen.  Lane 
was  ihfoDvtrd  of  the  transaction,  and  reminded  of  his  ob- 
jectior.s  to  the  original  purchase,  he  laughed  heartily. 

"Well  Meek,"  said  he,   "you  were  drunk  when  you 

bought  them,  and  by I  think   you  must   have  been 

drunk  when  you  sold  them;  but  drunk  or  sober,  I  will 
own  you  can  beat  me  at  a  bargain." 

Such  bargains,  however,  became  common  enough  about 
this  time  in  California,  for  this  was  the  year  memorable  in 
California  history,  of  the  breaking  out  of  the  gold-fever, 
and  the  great  rush  to  the  mines  which  made  even  the 
commonest  things  worth  their  weight  in  gold-dust. 

Proceeding  to  Los  Angelos,  our  party,  once  more  comfort- 
ably mounted,  found  traveling  comparatively  easy.  At  this 
place  they  found  quartered  the  command  of  Maj.  Graham, 


OUKOONIANS   AT   SAN   FRANCISCO. 


479 


whose  abanfloncd  wap^ons  had  been  pas.^ed  at  the  Tloniella 
on  the  Colorado  River.  The  town,  too,  was  crowded 
with  miners,  men  of  every  class,  but  chiefly  American 
adventurers,  drawn  together  from  every  quarter  of  Cali- 
fornia and  Mexico  by  the  rumor  of  the  gold  discovery  at 
Sutter's  Fort. 

On  arriving  at  San  Pedro,  a  vessel — the  Southampton, 
was  found  ready  to  sail.  She  had  on  board  a  crowd  of 
fugitives  from  Mexico,  bound  to  San  Francisco,  wliere  they 
hoped  to  find  repose  from  the  troubles  which  harassed 
that  revolutionary  Republic. 

At  San  Francisco,  Meek  was  surprised  to  meet  about 
two  hundred  Oregonians,  who  on  the  first  news  of  the 
gold  discovery  the  previous  autumn,  had  fled,  as  it  is  said 
men  shall  flee  on  the  day  of  judgment — leaving  the  wheat 
ungathered  in  the  fields,  the  grain  unground  in  the  mills, 
the  cattle  unherded  on  the  plains,  their  tools  and  farming 
implements  rusting  on  the  ground — everything  abandoned 
as  if  it  would  never  more  be  needed,  to  go  and  seek  the 
sliining  dust,  which  is  vainly  denominated  "filthy  lucre." 
The  two  hundred  were  on  their  way  home,  having  all 
either  m.ade  something,  or  lost  their  health  by  exposure 
so  that  they  were  obliged  to  return.  But  they  left  many 
more  in  the  mines. 

Such  were  the  tales  told  in  San  Francisco  of  the  won- 
derful fortunes  of  some  of  the  miners  that  young  Lane  be- 
came infected  with  the  universal  fever  and  declared  his 
intention  to  try  mining  with  the  rest.  Meek  too,  deter- 
I  mined  to  risk  something  in  gold-seeking,  and  as  some  of 
the  teamsters  who  had  left  Fort  Leavenworth  with  the 
company,  and  had  come  as  far  as  San  Francisco,  were  very 
desirous  of  going  to  the  mines.  Meek  fitted  out  two  or 
three  with  pack-horses,  tools,  and  provisions,  to  accompany 
[young  Lane.  For  the  money  expended  in  the  outfit  he 
81 


480 


THE  GOVERNOR  AND  MARSHAL  QUARREL, 


was  to  receive  half  of  their  first  year's  profits.  The  re- 
sult of  this  venture  was  three  pickle-jars  of  gold-dust, 
which  were  sent  to  him  by  the  hands  of  Nat.  Lane,  the 
following  year ;  and  which  just  about  reimbursed  him  for 
the  outlay. 

At  San  Francisco,  Gen.  Lane  found  the  U.  S.  Sloop  of 
War,  the  St.  Mary's;  and  Meek  insisted  that  the  Oregon 
government,  which  was  represented  in  their  persons,  had 
a  right  to  require  her  services  in  transporting  itself  to  its 
pioper  seat,  But  Lane,  whoso  notions  of  economy  ex- 
tended, singularly  enough,  to  the  affairs  of  the  general 
government,  would  not  consent  to  the  needless  expendi- 
ture. Meek  was  rebellious,  and  quoted  Thornton,  by 
whom  he  was  determined  nui  to  be  outdone  in  respect  of 
expense  for  transportation.  Lane  insisted  that  his  dignity 
did  not  require  a  government  vessel  to  convey  him  to 
Oregon.  In  short  the  new  government  wns  very  muili 
divided  against  itself,  and  only  escaped  a  fall  by  Meek's 
finding  some  tyne,  or  some  others,  else,  on  whom  to  ^lay 
his  pranks. 

The  first  one  was  a  Jew  peddler  who  had  gentlemen's 
clothes  to  sell.  To  him  the  Marshal  represented  himself 
as  a  United  States  Custom  officer,  and  after  frightening 
him  with  a  threat  of  confiscating  his  entire  stock,  finally 
compromised  with  the  terrified  Israelite  by  accepting  a 
suit  of  clothes  for  himself  After  enjoying  the  mortifica- 
tion of  spirit  which  the  loss  inflicted  on  the  Jew,  for  twen- 
ty-four hours,  he  finally  paid  him  for  the  clothes,  at  the 
same  time  administering  a  lecture  upon  the  sin  and  dan- 
ger of  smuggling. 

The  party  which   had   left   Leavenworth   for  Oregon! 
nearly  six  months  before,  numbering  fifty -five,  now  num 
bered  only  seven.     Of  the  original  number  ^wo  had  been 
killed,  and  all  the  rest  had  de'=<erted  to  go  to  the  mines, 


i*:',T: 


A   SALUTE — ARRIVAL   AT    OREGON    CITY. 


481 


Tliere  remained  only  Gen.  Lane,  Meek,  Lieut.  Hawkins 
;ind  Ilaydcn,  surgeon,  besides  three  soldiers.  With  this 
small  company  Gen.  Lane  went  on  board  the  Jeanette,  a 
small  vessel,  crowded  with  miners,  and  destined  for  the 
Columbia  River.  As  the  Jeanette  dropped  down  the  Bay, 
a  salute  was  fired  from  the  St.  Mary's  in  honor  of  Gen. 
Lane,  and  appropriated  to  himseK  by  Marshal  Meek,  who 
seems  to  have  delighted  in  appropriating  to  himself  all 
the  honors  in  whatever  circumstances  he  might  be  placed ; 
the  more  especially  too,  if  such  assumption  annoyed  the 
General. 

After  a  tedious  voyage  of  eighteen  days  the  Jeanette 
arrived  in  the  Columbia,  River.  From  Astoria  the  party 
took  small  boats  for  Oregon  City,  a  voyage  ot  one  hun- 
dred and  twenty  miles ;  so  that  it  was  already  the  2d  of 
March  when  they  arrived  at  that  place,  and  only  one  day 
was  left  for  the  organization  of  the  Territorial  Govern- 
ment before  the  expiratiou  of  Polk's  term  of  office.  Gen. 
Lane's  economy  had  nearly  defeated  Polk's  greiit  desire.>ii 

','■  ■  ■    >-.';     '.'li'.      '.■■"...•;     ■•'.'■'■'*   ■iO-^K-''-'~''\ 

■  .:  •     •     ■■     i'  •'.,-''■■,';>•'  ■•,■•   -.  ■  '•-•3i/'  .■V,<>fV,V.".4' '■'  .-•¥>'         -f, 


I'^ii 


^*^f*'A'..\  ;.a,,  h-^t^ 


;^-ri'   ^i 


482 


THE  DROPPED  THREADS  OF  OUR  STORY. 


■  ■  '''fr-*.r»lft*-i; 


;-    ,>:. ■'-■r';u 


CHAPTER    XLII. 


1849.  If  this  were  a  novel  which  we  T<^ere  writing,  we 
should  fix  Tipou  this  point  in  our  story  -^  >  'V; — "And so 
they  were  married,  and  lived  together  h-ippily  ever  af- 
ter ;"  placing  the  Finis  directly  after  that  sentence.  For 
have  we  not  brought  Oregon  through  all  the  romantic  ad- 
ventures and  misadventures  ot  her  extraordinary  youth, 
and  ushered  her  upon  the  stage  of  action  a  promising 
young  Territory  ?  As  for  our  hero,  he  too  has  arrived  at 
the  climax  of  his  individual  glory  and  success,  a  point  at 
which  it  might  be  wise  to  leave  him. 

But  a  regard  for  the  eternal  fitness  of  things  compels 
us  to  gather  up  again  the  dropped  threads  of  somo  por- 
tions of  our  story,  and  follow  them  to  their  pv^  ":  v^h.i- 
ing  up.  We  promise,  however,  to  touch  as  lig  c' ;  '  ) .'-- 
sible  upon  the  Territorial  history  of  Oregon ;  L '  m 
political  record  here  becomes,  what  the  political  recom 
of  too  many  other  Territories  has  been,  a  history  of  dema 
gogueisra.  With  this  preface  we  proceed  to  finish  our  nar. 
rative.  '" 

On  the  2d  of  March  Gen.  Lane  'I'ved  at  Oregon  City, 
and  was  introduced  to  Gov.  AberijLu..y,  by  M  -  'hal  Meek, 
On  the  3d,  there  appeared  the  following — 

PROCLAMATION. 

Tn  pinsuaico  of  an  act  of  C'^npvfss,  irp^rved  the  14th  of  August,  in  the 
year  of  our  Lord  1848,  establislnr.g  a  Terv'h.  '"i  Government  in  the  Territory 
of  Oregon : 

I,  Joseph  Lane,  was,  on  the  18th  day  of  August,  in  the  year  1848,  appointed 


.V  ■■" 


STORY. 


GOV.    LANES   PROCLAMATION. 


483 


rr-f 


re  writing,  we 
'^—"  And  so 
h.ippily  ever  af- 
t  sentence.  For 
the  romantic  ad- 
aordinaxy  youth, 
ion  a  promising 
)0  has  arrived  at 
iccess,  a  point  at 

f  things  compels 
ids  of  sor.16  yor- 
eir  pr'' '  ,^v  Tfii.  i- 
as  lig  Gij*  ■  ■  ')'r-- 
])regon ;  L  '  un 
!  political  recui'u 
,  history  of  dema 
to  finish  our  nar. 

I  at  Oregon  City, 
)y  M-"hal  Meek, 


^■HM 


I4tli  of  August,  in  the 
iment  in  the  Territory 

le  year  1848,  appointed 


Governor  in  anc'  for  the  Territory  of  Oregon.  I  have  therefore  thought  it 
proper  to  issue  chis,  my  proclamation,  making  known  that  I  have  this  day  en- 
tered upon  the  discharge  of  the  duties  of  my  office,  and  by  virtue  thereof  do 
(kcliire  the  laws  of  the  United  States  extended  over,  and  declared  to  be  in 
force  in  si  id  Territory,  so  far  as  the  same,  or  any  portion  thereof,  may  be  ap- 
plicable. 

Given  under  my  hand  at  Oregon  City,  in  the  Territory  of  Oregon,  this  3d 
day  of  March,  Anno  Domini  1849.  Joskph  Lank. 

Thus  Oregon  had  one  day,  under  Polk,  who,  take  it  all 
in  all,  had  been  a  faithful  guardian  of  her  interests. 

Shortly  after  the  appearance  of  the  proclamation  of 
Gov.  Lane,  Meek  was  sworn  into  office,  and  gave  the  re- 
quired securities.  All  the  other  Territorial  officers  pres- 
ent in  the  Territory,  or  as  fast  as  they  arrived,  took  the 
oath  of  office ;  courts  were  established,  and  the  new  gov- 
ernment moved  on.  Of  the  Presiden+'al  appointees  who 
accepted,  were  William  T.  Bryant  of  Indiana,  Chief  Jus- 
tice 0.  C.  Pratt  of  Illinois,  and  Peter  H.  Burnett  of  Ore- 
gon, Associate  Justices  of  the  District  Court :  John  Adair 
of  Kentucly,  Collector  for  the  District  of  Oregon :  and 
Kintzinge  Pritchett  of  Pennsylvania,  Secretary  of  State. 

The  condition  in  which  Gov.  Lane  found  the  new  Ter- 
ritory was  not  so  sad  as  might  reasonably  be  conjectured 
from  the  fears  of  its  inhabitants  fifteen  months  previous. 
Intimidated  by  the  pretence  of  tho  volunteers  in  the  upper 
country,  the  Indians  haa  remain  c;d  quiet,  and  the  immigra- 
tion of  1848  passed  through  their  country  without  being 
disturbed  in  any  manner.  So  little  apprehension  was  felt 
concerning  an  Indian  war  at  this  time  that  men  did  not 
hesitate  to  leave  their  homes  and  families  to  go  to  the  gold 
fields  of  California. 

In  the  month  of  August,  1848,  the  Honolulu^  a  vessel 
of  one  hundred  and  fifty  tons,  owned  in  Boston,  carrying 
a  consignment  of  goods  to  a  mercantile  house  in  Portland, 
arrived  at  her  anchorage  in  the  Wallamet,  via  San  Fran- 


%m. 


'i;- 


"I ,. 


484 


THE   GOLD   EXCITEMENT. 


\..    I     4; 


CISCO,  California.  Captain  Newell,  almost  before  he  had 
discharged  freight,  commenced  buying  up  a  cargo  of  flour 
and  other  provisions.  But  what  excited  the  wonder  of 
the  Oregonians  was  the  fact  that  he  also  bought  up  all 
manner  of  tools  such  as  could  be  used  in  digging  or  cut- 
ting, from  a  spaio  and  pickaxe,  to  a  pocket-knife.  This 
singular  proceeding  naturally  aroused  the  suspicions  of  a 
people  accustomed  to  have  something  to  suspect.  A  de- 
mand was  made  for  the  HonolidiCs  papers,  and  these  not 
being  forthcoming,  it  was  proposed  by  some  of  the  pru- 
dent ones  to  tie  her  up.  When  this  movement  was  at- 
tempted, the  secret  came  out.  Captain  Newell,  holding 
up  a  bag  of  gold-dust  before  the  astonished  eyes  of  his 
persecutors,  cried  out — 

"  Do  you  see  that  gold  ?       you,  I  will  depopulate 

your  country  !  I  know  where  there  is  plenty  of  this  stuff, 
and  I  am  taking  these  tools  where  it  is  to  be  found." 

This  was  in  August,  the  month  of  harvest.  So  great 
was  the  excitement  which  seized  the  people,  that  all  classes 
of  men  were  governed  by  it.  Few  persons  stopped  to 
consider  that  this  was  the  time  for  producers  to  reap  golden 
harvests  of  precious  ore,  for  the  other  yellow  harvest  of 
grain  which  was  already  ripe  and  waiting  to  be  gathered. 
Men  left  their  grain  standing,  and  took  their  teams  from 
the  reapers  to  pack  their  provisions  and  tools  to  the  mines, 

Some  men  would  have  gladly  paid  double  to  get  back 
the  spades,  shovels,  or  picks,  which  the  shrewd  Yankee 
Captain  had  purchased  from  them  a  week  previous.  All 
implements  of  this  nature  soon  commanded  fabuk  as  prices, 
and  he  was  a  lucky  man  who  had  a  supply. 

The  story  of  the  gold-fever  which  began  in  the  fall  and 
winter  of  '48,  and  raged  with  such  violence  through  '49, 
is  too  familiar  to  everybody  to  need  repeating  here.  Only 
as  it  affected  the  fortunes  of  Oregon  need  it  be  mentioned. 


/ 


I  .  •         ! 


'  '•^r'T'TTyTyp^'^ 


SUDDEN  PROSPERITY  OF  OREGON. 


485 


Its  immediate  effect  was  to  give  an  impetus  to  business  in 
the  Territory  which  nothing  else  ever  could  have  done ; 
to  furnish  a  market  for  all  sorts  of  produce,  and  employ- 
ment for  every  kind  of  industry,  to  bring  money  into  cir- 
culation in  place  of  wheat  and  beaver-skins,  and  for  a  time 
to  make  the  country  extremely  prosperous.  ,   ; 

One  of  the  last  acts  of  the  Provisional  Government  had 
been  to  authorize  the  weighing,  assaying,  and  coining  of, 
gold — an  act  which  was  rendered  necessary  by  the  great 
amount  of  "dust"  in  circulation,  and  the  influx  of  the 
debased  South  American  coins.  An  association  of  gen- 
tlemen taking  the  matter  in  hand,  bore  all  the  expense  of 
the  dies,  machinery,  and  labor,  coining  only  about  ten 
thousand  dollars  in  the  summer  of  '49.  They  succeeded 
in  raising  the  price  of  "  dust "  from  eleven  to  sixteen  dol- 
lars per  ounce,  and  stopping  XCa?^^  y^CH4> 
the  influx  of  South  Ameri- 
can coins.  The  gentlemen  ^^^^^^)  f?  native; 
who  conferred  a  great  bene- 
fit on  Oregon,  were  Kil- 
borne,    Magruder,    Rector,  beaver-money. 

Campbell,  and  Smith.  This  money  went  by  the  name  of 
"Beaver- money,"  owing  to  the  design  on  the  dies,  which 
referred  to  the  previous  beaver  currency. 

But  the  ultimate  effect  of  the  California  gold  discove- 
ries was  to  put  a  check  upon  the  prosperity  of  Oregon. 
The  emigration  from  the  states,  instead  of  going  to  Oregon 
as  formerly,  now  turned  off  to  California.  Men  soon  dis- 
covered the  fertile  quality  of  California  soil,  and  while  the 
majority  dug  for  gold  a  sufficient  number  went  to  farming 
to  make,  together  with  the  imports  from  the  east,  almost 
a  supply  for  the  yearly  hordes  of  gold  seekers.  The  fame 
of  the  •  California  climate,  the  fascinations  of  the  ups  and 


.'%: 


486 


GRADUAL   RELAPSE   AND   THE   CAUSE. 


.1 


!      I 


downs  of  fortune's  wheel  in  that  country,  and  many  other 
causes,  united  to  make  California,  and  not   Oregon,  the 
object  of  interest  on  the  Pacific  coast ;  and  the  rapidity 
with  which  California  became  self-supporting  removed  from 
Oregon  her  importance  as  a  source  of  supplies.     There- 
fore, after  a  few  years  of  rather  extraordinary  usefulness 
and  consequent  good  fortune,  the  Territory  relapsed  into 
a  purely  domestic   and   very  quiet  young  State.    This 
change  in  its  federal  status  was  not  altogether  acceptable 
to  Oregonians.     They  had  so  long  been  accustomed  to 
regard  themselves  as  the  pets  of  a  great  and  generous, 
but  rather  neglectful  Republic,  from  whose  hands  all  man- 
ner of  favors  were  to  be  of  right  demanded,  because  they 
had  sustained  for  so  long  a  time  the  character  of  good 
children,  without  any  immediate  reward — that  now  when 
a  rival  darling  sprang  into  vigorous  life  and  excessive  fa- 
vor, almost  at  once,  their  jealousy  rankled  painfully.    So 
naughty  and  disagreeable  a  passion  as  jealousy  is  its  own 
punishment,  as  the  Oregonian  of  to-day  would  do  well  to 
remember,  while  he  does  what  he  can  to  show  to  the  world 
that  his  State,  by  its  splendid  resources,  fully  justifies  all  the 
outlay  of  patriotism  and  ardor  which  distinguished  its 
early  history. 

But  to  return  to  our  mutton.  Although  Gov.  Lane 
did  not  find  an  Indian  war  on  his  hands  immediately  on 
assuming  the  duties  of  his  office,  there  was  yet  plenty  to 
do  in  getting  the  government  organized,  appointing  offi- 
cers to  take  the  census,  ordering  elections,  and  getting  the 
run  of  Oregon  politics,  to  occupy  his  attention  for  the 
first  three  months  of  his  administration. 

The  change  in  the  government  had  not  by  any  means 
changed  the  objects  and  aims  of  the  different  parties  in 
Oregon.  Now,  as  before,  there  was  a  Mission  party, 
strong  in  money  and  influence ;  now,  as  before,  the  term 


.^uxj  ■.iiL  U  ^yi  '^h^ed  e/iw  .: 


.Had 


•■^■T" 


THE   THREE   PARTIES. 


487 


"Hudson's  Bay  man"  was  used  by  the  Mission  party  to 
bring  odium  upon  any  aspirant  to  office,  or  even  business 
success,  who,  not  being  intimidated  by  their  interdict, 
'•piitured  to  be  employed  professionally  by  Dr.  McLaugh- 
lin, or  in  any  way  to  show  regard  for  him.  As  there  were 
ahvays  a  certain  number  independent  enough  to  act  from 
free  will  or  conviction,  there  was  in  consequence  still  a 
Hudson's  Bay  party.  Between  these  two,  as  before,  there 
stood  a  third  party,  who  added  itself  to  or  subtracted  it- 
self from  the  other  two,  as  its  purposes  and  interests 
required.  As  there  were  haters  of  Dr.  McLaughlin  in 
two  of  the  parties  it  did  not  require  a  great  amount  of 
shrewdness  to  inform  a  man  that  on  this  point  might  turn 
liis  political  fortunes. 

This  discovery  was  made  very  early  after  his  arrival  in 
the  Territory  by  Gov.  Lane,  as  well  as  by  Judge  Bryant, 
and  others,  and  used  at  times  by  them  when  there  was  an 
object  to  be  gained  by  it,  although  neither  of  these  dig- 
nitaries declared  themselves  openly  as  good  haters  of  the 
Doctor. 

Dr.  McLaughlin,  on  the  settlement  of  the  boundary 
question,  seeing  that  the  London  Company  found  much 
fault  with  him  for  having  "encouraged  the  settlement  of 
Oregon  by  the  Americans,"  went  to  England  to  see  the 
Directors  and  have  the  matter  understood  between  himself 
and  them.  Finding  on  hearing  his  explanation,  that  while 
doing  nothing  to  encourage*  settlement,  he  could  not  per- 
mit the  immigrants  of  the  first  few  years  to  suffer  after 
tlieir  arrival,  and  that  out  of  charity  only  he  had  done 
what  was  done  for  their  relief,  the  Company  still  blamed 
him,  the  Doctor  then  said  to  the  Directors,  "  Gentlemen, 
I  will  serve  you  no  longer."  Sixty  thousand  dollars,  ex- 
pended in  helping  American  settlers  was  charged  to  his 
private  account.  This  amount  was  afterwards  remitted, 
but  the  debt  was  heavily  felt  at  the  time. 


fc- »'- 1 


488 


DR.    MCLAUGHLIN — NKW    COMPLICATIONS. 


i       ■! 


mi 


V    \ 


On  his  return  to  Oregon,  and  en  the  establishment  of  a 
Territorial  government,  the  Doctor  determined  to  take  out 
naturalization  papers,  and  become  an  American  citizen. 
But  no  sooner  had  the  government  been  organized  tlian 
new  complications  arose  in  the  Doctor's  case.  Judge 
Bryant  had  been  but  a  few  days  in  the  Territory  before  he 
purchased  from  the  Mission  Milling  Company  the  Island  in 
the  river  opposite  Oregon  City,  which  was  occupied  by 
their  mills,  but  which  formed  a  part  of  the  original  claim 
of  Dr.  McLaughlin.  Thus  the  Chief  Justice  assumed  at 
once  the.  same  attitude  towards  him  which  the  Mission  and 
the  Milling  Company  had  done ;  and  as  the  island  was 
contained  in  Judge  Bryant's  district,  and  only  two  Judges 
were  at  that  time  in  the  Territory,  the  Doctor  felt  con- 
strained to  seek  advice  from  such  Americans  as  were  his 
friends.  Although  some  believed  that  his  best  chance  of 
holding  his  original  claim,  was  to  depend  upon  his  posses- 
sory rights  under  the  treaty  of  1846,  others  counseled 
him  to  take  out  his  naturalization  papers  and  secure  him- 
self in  the  rights  of  an  American  citizen.  This  he  did  at 
last,  on  the  30th  of  May,  1849. 

We  have  spoken  in  a  previous  chapter  of  Mr.  Thurston, 
in  connection  with  the  Donation  Act.  It  is  related  of  this 
gentleman  that  when  he  left  Iowa  for  Oregon,  he  confided 
to  his  personal  friends  his  resolve  to  be  "in  Congress  or  in 
—  "  two  years  after  reaching  that  Territory.  Like  other 
ambitious  new-comers,  he  soon  discovered  what  side  to 
take  with  certain  influential  persons,  concerning  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company.^  which  was  but  another  name  for  Dr. 
McLaughlin. 

Mr.  Thurston  did  not  hesitate  to  ask  the  Doctor  to  vote 
for  him,  for  delegate  to  Congress,  which,  however,  the 
Doctor  did  not  do,  as  one  of  his  friends  was  up  for  the 
same  ofl&ce.     But  when  he  was  finally  elected  to  Congress, 


,.=n^I)  a/f!  :ti 


ryii,m  r-'i-y-' 


THE    NEW   DELEGATE   TO   CONGRESS. 


489 


fortunately  within  the  two  years  to  which  he  haJ  limited 
himseir— Mr.  Thurston  took  ground  which  betrayed  by 
what  influences  he  had  been  placed  in  the  coveted  position. 
Mr.  Thornton  having  returned  to  Oregon  sometime  in 
May  had  made  the  acquaintance  of  the  candidate  for  Con- 
irress,  and  feeling  some  anxiety  with  regard  to  the  Land 
Bill,  which  he  had  expended  considerable  thought  and 
labor  upon,  conversed  freely  with  Mr.  Thurston  upon  the 
subject,  and  finally,  '  w  his  election,  presented  him  with  a 
copy  of  his  bill ;  the  same,  with  certain  alterations,  that 
could  not  strictly  be  called  amendments,  which  afterwards 
became  the  Donation  Law. 

But  the  notable  section  of  Mr.  Thurston's  bill,  which 
finally  became  a  law,  was  that  one  which  was  intended  to 
secure  him  future  political  favors,  by  earning  him  the  grat- 
itude of  the  anti-Hudson's  Bay  party,  and  all  others  whose 
private  interests  he  subserved.  This  was  the  section 
which  exempted  from  the  benefits  of  the  act  the  Oregon 
City  claim,  in  the  following  words.  "  That  there  be,  and 
hereby  is  granted  to  the  Territory  of  Oregon,  two  town- 
ships, one  north  and  one  south  of  the  Columbia  River,  to 
aid  in  establishing  a  University,  to  be  selected  by  the 
Assembly,  and  approved  by  the  Surveyor  General.  Also 
the  Oregon  City  claim,  except  those  lo.'s  sold  previous  to 
March  Uh,  1849." 

In  order  to  secure  the  passage  of  this  part  of  the  land 
bill,  Mr.  Thurston  addressed  a  letter  to  the  House  of  Rep- 
resentatives, of  which  he  was  a  member,  containing  the 
following  assertions : — that  it  was  the  Methodist  Mission 
which  first  took  the  Oregon  City  claim ;  that  they  were 
driven  from  it  by  a  fear  of  having  the  savages  of  Oregon 
let  loose  upon  them ;  that  a  number  of  citizens  of  Oregon 
had  been  successively  driven  from  it,  by  the  power  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company;  that  Dr.  McLaughlin  had  al- 


rl 


^^  If 


400 


STORY   OF   THE   DONATION   ACT. 


'  ■ ;  1  ■ 


u:. 


,  I 

j 

1   f. 

1  ' 

' 

!i  1  i 

L;          1      1 

111 

1  ■ 

ready  sold  lots  to  the  amount  of  $200,000,  enough  for  a 
foreigner  to  make  out  of  American  territory ;  and  that 
the  Doctor  had  not  taken  out  naturalization  papers,  but 
was  an  Englislunan  at  heart,  and  still  identified  with  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company,  Mr.  Thurston's  letter  contained 
many  more  assertions  equally  false — but  those  just  given 
relate  more  particularly  to  the  eleventh  section  of  the  Do- 
nation Act. 

Mr.  Thurston's  reason  for  asking  to  have  all  sales  of  lots 
made  before  the  fourth  of  March,  1849,  confirmed,  he  de- 
clared to  be  to  prevent  litigation.  Dr.  McLaughlin,  he 
said,  ought  to  be  made  to  pay  for  those  lots,  but  '•  not 
wishing  to  create  any  litigation,  the  committee  concluded 
to  quiet  the  whole  matter  by  confirming  those  lots." 

He  further  stated  that  the  Doctor  had  upon  the  Oregon 
City  claim  "  a  flouring  mill,  granaries,  two  double  baw- 
mills,  a  large  number  of  houses,  stores,  and  other  buildings, 
to  which  he  may  be  entitled  by  virtue  of  his  possessory 
rights  under  the  treaty  of  1846.  For  only  a  part  of  these 
improvements,  which  he  may  thus  hold,  he  has  been  urged 
during  the  past  year  to  take  $250,000." 

Mr.  Thurston  sees  no  harm  in  taking  this  property,  so 
valuable  in  his  estimation,  which  comprises  the  earnings 
of  a  whole  life-time  spent  in  devotion  to  business  in  an 
Indian  country,  away  from  all  that  men  commonly  esteem 
desirable,  from  the  proper  owner.  On  the  contrary  he 
makes  an  eloquent  appeal  to  the  House  to  save  this  valu- 
able estate  to  the  people  of  Oregon  wherewith  to  educate 
the  rising  generations. 

Still  further,  so  great  is  his  fear  that  some  portion  of  his 
property  may  be  left  to  the  Doctor,  he  asks  that  the  Island 
portion  of  the  claim,  which  he  confesses  is  only  a  pile  of 
rocks,  of  no  value  except  for  the  improvements  on  it,  may 
be  "  confirmed  to  George  Abernethy,  his  heirs  or  assigns;' 


BTOUY    OF   THE   DONATION  ACT. 


491 


iissigning  as  a  reason  that  when  the  mission  was  driven 
from  Oregon  City,  it  took  refuge  on  this  pile  of  roeks, 
iuul  liaving  built  a  mill,  afterwards  sold  it  to  Mr.  Aber- 
iiethy,  one  of  the  stockholders.  Nothing  is  said  about  tlie 
mill  having  been  resold  to  Judge  Bryant ;  but  Judge  Bry- 
iiiit  could  not  object  to  having  the  Island  confirmed  to 
him  through  Mr.  Abernethy. 

And  here  we  may  as  well  sever  one  of  the  threads  in 
our  story.  When  it  became  known  that  by  an  act  of  Con- 
gress Oregon  City  was  reserved  from  the  right  of  even  an 
American  citizen  to  claim,  and  that  only  after  years  of 
waiting  would  the  title  by  possessory  right  be  settled 
either  for  or  against  him,  the  old  Doctor's  heart  was  broken. 
He  still  continued  to  reside  upon  his  claim,  but  the 
uncertainty  of  title  prevented  any  sales  of  property.  The 
iujjratitude  of  those  whom  he  had  assisted  when  assistance 
was  life  itself  to  them,  their  refusals  to  pay  what  had  been 
lent  them,  and  their  constant  calumniations,  so  bore  upon 
his  spirits  that  his  strength  failed  rapidly  under  them,  and 
for  the  last  few  years  of  his  life  he  fancied  himself  reduced 
to  poverty,  though  he  was  still  in  possession  of  his  im- 
provements. 

An  example  of  the  extent  to  which  Rome  men  carried 
their  anti-McLaughlin  principles  may  be  fo'  rd  in  the  fol- 
lowing story  which  was  related  to  us  by  Li  i  gentleman 
mentioned  in  it.  The  doctor  one  day  stood  upon  the 
street  conversing  with  Mr.  Thornton,  who  had  been  his 
legal  adviser  in  some  instances,  another  gentleman  also 
being  present.  Their  conversation  was  rudely  interrupted 
by  a  fourth  individual,  who  set  upon  Mr.  Thornton  with 
every  manner  of  abuse  and  vile  epithet  for  being  seen  in 
communication  with  the  " old  Hudson's  Bay,  Jes- 
uitical rascal,"  and  much  more  to  the  same  effect.  To  this 
assault,  Thornton,  who  had  a  great  command  of  language, 


ml 
jisSi 


rWi 


'flf 


492 


DEATH   OF    DR.    MCLAUGHLIN.  ^,;    »f 


I     i 


replied  in  a  manner  which  sent  the  man  about  his  business 
Then  turning  to  the  Doctor,  he  said: 

"  Doctor,  I  will  lay  a  wager  that  man  is  one  of  your 
debtors,  who  never  intends  to  pay,  and  takes  it  out  in 
abuse." 

"  Yes,  yes,"  answered  the  Doctor,  trying  to  suppress  his 
nervousness ;  *'  when  he  came  to  Oregon  he  was  naked 
and  hungry.  I  gave  him  assistance  to  the  amount  of  four 
hundred  dollars.  He  is  rich  now ;  has  land  and  herds, 
and  everything  in  abundance ;  but  he  hates  me  on  ac- 
count of  that  four  hundred  dollars.  That  is  the  way  with 
most  of  them !" 

Dr.  McLaughlin  died  September,  18  nd  is  buried  in 
the  Catholic  church-yard  in  Oregon  City.  Five  years  after 
his  death  the  State  of  Oregon  restored  to  his  heirs  the 
property  which  it  had  so  long  wrongfully  withheld.  As 
for  the  demagogue  who  embittered  the  last  days  of  a  good 
man,  for  political  advancement,  he  did  not  live  to  enjoy 
his  reward.  His  health,  delicate  at  the  best,  was  very 
much  undermined  at  last  by  discovering  that  he  received 
more  blame  than  praise,  even  among  his  former  supporters, 
for  the  eleventh  section  of  the  Donation  Law.  He  be- 
came very  ill  on  his  return,  and  died  at  Acapulco,  Mexico, 
without  reaching  home. 

Very  many  persons  have  confirmed  what  his  admirer, 
Meek,  says  of  Dr.  McLaughlin,  that  he  deserved  to  be 
called  the  Father  of  Oregon. 


>  ■     I... -.  ;  .V 


',        ;.> . «     A       -r        »  ■ 


».-■.■•  I  -,,  ii.j     ,  • 


-1.%*;,  ^      it.: 


MAUNANIMITY    OF   THE   CAYUSli   CHllii'S. 


493 


CHAPTER    XLIII. 


1850-4.  The  Territorial  law  of  Oregon  combined  the 
olTices  of  Governor  and  Indian  Agent.  One  of  the  most 
important  acts  which  marked  Lane's  administration  was 
that  of  securing  and  punishing  the  murderers  of  Dr.  and 
Mrs.  Whitman.  The  Indians  of  the  Cayuse  tribe  to  whom 
the  murderers  belonged,  were  assured  that  the  only  way 
ill  which  they  could  avoid  a  war  with  the  whites  was  to 
deliver  up  the  chiefs  who  had  been  engaged  in  the  massacre, 
to  be  tried  and  punished  according  to  the  laws  of  the 
whites.  Of  the  two  hundred  Indians  implicated  in  the 
massacre,  five  were  given  up  to  be  dealt  with  according  to 
law.  These  were  the  five  chiefs,  Te-lou-i-ktte,  Tam-a-has, 
Klok-a-mas^  Ki-am-a-sump-kin^  and  I-sa-ia-cha-lak-is. 

These  men  might  have  made  their  escape ;  thei  e  was 
no  imperative  necessity  upon  them  to  suffer  death,  had 
they  chosen  to  flee  to  the  mountains.  But  with  that 
strange  magnanimity  which  the  savage  often  shows,  to  the 
astonishment  of  Christians,  they  resolved  to  die  for  their 
people  rather  than  by  their  flight  to  involve  them  in 
war. 

Early  in  the  summer  of  1850,  the  prisoners  were  deliv. 
ered  up  to  Gov.  Lane,  and  brought  down  to  Oregon  City, 
where  they  were  given  into  the  keeping  of  the  marshal. 
During  their  passage  down  the  river,  and  while  they  were 
incarcerated  at  Oregon  City,  their  bearing  was  most  proud 
and  haughty.  Some  food,  more  choice  than  their  prison- 
er's fare,  being  offered  to  one  of  the  chiefs  at  a  camp  of 


^■vl 

. 

(■ 

j 

' 

1 

r  |]H 

1 

i|':|K 

! 

tip    HH 

j 

\ 

. '  m 

'"'^  wHI 

'''^''liH 

'T'-whI 

i 

v«'  'njuHl 

i 

Hi 

1 

\ 

\ 

494 


PROUD   BEARING    OF    THE   PRISONERS. 


1^     ( 


the  guard,  in  their  transit  down  the  Columbia,  the  proud 
savage  rejected  it  with  scorn. 

"What  sort  of  heart  have  you,"  he  asked,  "that  you 
offer  food  to  me,  whose  hands  are  red  with  your  brother's 
blood?" 

And  this,  after  eleven  years  of  missionajy  labor,  -^vas  all 
the  comprehension  the  savage  nature  knew  of  the  main 
principle  of  Christianity, — forgiveness,  or  cnarity  toward 
our  enemies.  .  ^  i- 

At  Oregon  City,  Meek  had  m.any  converiiations  wlia 
them.  In  all  of  these  they  gave  but  one  explanation  of 
their  crime.  They  feared  that  Dr.  Whitman  intended, 
with  the  other  whites,  to  take  their  land  from  them ;  and 
they  were  told  by  Jo  Lewis,  the  half-breed,  that  the  Doc- 
tor's medicine  v/as  intended  to  kill  them  off  quitjkly,  in 
order  the  sooner  to  get  possession  of  their  country.  None 
of  them  expressed  any  sorrow  for  what  had  been  done; 
but  one  of  them,  Ki-am-a-sump-kin^  declared  his  inno- 
cence to  the  last. 

In  conversations  with  others,  curious  to  "fain  some 
knowledge  of  the  savage  moral  na,ture,  Te-lou-ih'te  often 
puzzled  these  students  of  Indian  ethics.  When  ques- 
tioned as  to  his  motive  for  allowing  himself  to  be  taken, 
Te-lou-i-kite  answered : 

"Did  not  your  missionaries  tell  us  that  Christ  died  to 
save  iiis  people?     So  die  we,  to  save  our  people!" 

Notwithstanding  the  prisoners  were  pre-doomed  to 
death,  a  regular  form  of  trial  was  gone  through.  The 
Prosecuting  Attorney  for  the  Tenitory,  A.  Holbrook,  con- 
ducted the  prosecution :  Secretary  Pritchett,  Major  Run- 
nels, and  Captain  Claiborne,  the  defence.  The  fee  of- 
fered by  the  chiefs  was  fifty  head  of  horses.  Whether  it 
was  compassion,  or  a  love  of  horses  which  animated  the 


\) 


'V 


"w^'ipT* 


ERS. . 

mbia,  the  proud 

iked,  "that  you 
a  your  brother's 

J  J  labor,  was  all 

ew  of  the  main 

cnarity  toward 

veriiations  wllh 
!  explanation  of 
tman  intended, 
roTCi  them;  and 
i,  that  the  Doc- 
1  off  quickly,  in 
country.  None 
lad  been  done; 
ilared   his  inno- 

to  "fain  some 
'e-lou-ikite  often 
When  ques- 
jlf  to  be  taken, 

;  Christ  died  to 
people!" 
are-doomed  to 
through.  The 
Holbrook,  con- 
tt,  Major  Run- 
The  fee  of- 
Whether  it 
animated  the 


MEEK  S   DESCRIPTION    OP   THE   TRIAL. 


495 


I 


defence,  quite  an  effort  was  made  to  shovv  that  the  mur- 
derers were  not  guilty. 

The  presiding  Justice  was  0.  C.  Pratt — Bryant  having 
resigned.  Perhaps  we  cannot  do  better  than  to  give  the 
Marshal's  own  description  of  the  trial  and  execution, 
which  is  as  follows :  "  Thar  war  a  great  many  indict- 
ments, and  a  great  many  people  in  attendance  at  this 
court.  The  Grand  Jury  found  true  bills  against  the  five 
Indians,  and  they  war  arraigned  for  trial.  Captain  Clai- 
borne led  off  for  the  defence.  He  foamed  and  ranted 
like  he  war  acting  a  play  in  some  theatre.  He  knew 
about  as  much  law  as  one  of  the  Indians  he  war  defend 
ing ;  and  his  gestures  were  so  powerful  that  he  smashed 
two  tumblers  that  the  Judge  had  ordered  to  be  filled  with 
cold  vv^ater  for  him.  After  a  time  he  gave  out  mentally 
and  physically.  Then  came  Major  Runnels,  who  made  a 
very  good  defence.  But  the  Marshal  thought  they  must 
do  better,  for  they  would  never  ride  fifty  head  of  horses 
widi  them  speeches.  '•■    '  ^      ^ 

Mr  Pritchett  closed  for  the  defence  with  a  very  able 
argument ;  for  he  war  a  man  of  brains.  But  then  followed 
Jlr.  Holbrook,  for  the  prosecution,  and  he  laid  down  the 
case  so  plain  that  the  jury  were  convinced  before  they 
left  the  jury-box.  When  the  J  dge  passed  sentence  of 
death  on  them,  two  of  the  chi( !«  showed  no  terror ;  but 
the  other  tliree  were  filled  with  horror  and  consternation 
thai  they  could  not  conceal. 

After  court  had  adjourned,  and  Gov.  Lane  war  gone 
South  on  some  business  with  the  Rogue  River  Indians, 
Secretary  Pritchett  came  to  me  and  told  me  that  as  he 
war  now  acting  Governor  he  meant  to  reprieve  the  In- 
dians. Said  he  to  me,  '  Now  Meek,  I  want  you  to  liber* 
ate  them  Indians,  when  yoi  receive  the  order.' 


Vi 


■  SJ,K,''ij: 


496 


THE   EXECUTION. 


.    'Pritclictt,'    said    I,   'so  far  as  Meek  is  concerned,  he 
would  do  anything  for  you.' 

This  talk  pleased  him ;  he  said  he  'war  glad  to  hear  it' 
and  would  go  right  off' and  write  the  reprieve.' 

*  But,'  said  I,  '  Pritchett,  let  us  talk  now  like  men.  I 
have  got  in  my  pocket  the  death-warrant  of  them  Indians 
signed  by  Gov.  Lane.  The  Marshal  v/ill  execute  them 
men,  as  certain  as  the  day  arrives.' 

Pritchett  looked  surprised,  and  remarked — 'That  war 
not  what  you  just  said,  that  you  would  do  anything  for 
me.'  ,:  ff-     .    .        .,, 

Said  I,  'you  were  talking  then  to  Meek, — not  to  the 
Marshal,  who  always  does  his  duty.'  At  that  he  got  mad 
and  left.  - . ,, 

When  the  3d  of  June,  the  day  of  execution,  arrived, 
Oregon  City  was  thronged  with  people  to  witness  it,    1 
brought  forth  the  five  prisoners  and  placed  them  on  a 
drop.     Here  the  chief,  who  always  declared  his  innocence, 
Ki-am-i-sump-hin^  begged  me  to  kill  him  with  my  knife,— 
for  an  Indian  fears  to  be  hanged, — ^but  I  soon  put  an  end 
to  his  entreaties  by  cutting  the  rope  which  held  the  drop, 
with  my  tomahawk.     As  I  said  '  The  Lord  have  mercy  on 
your  souls,'  the  trap  fell,  and  the  five  Cayuses  hung  in 
the  air.     Three  of  them  died  instantly.     The  other  two 
struggled  for  several  minutes ;  the  Little  Chief,  Tam-a-hm^ 
the  longest.     It  was  he  who  was  cruel  to  my  little  girl  at 
the  time  of  the  massacre ;  so  I  just  put  my  foot  on  the 
\noi  to  tighten  it,  and  he  got  quiet.     After  thirty-five 
minutes  they  were  taken  down  and  buried." 
*"     Thus  terminated  a  tragic  chapter  in  the  history  of  Ore- 
gon.    Among  the  services  which  Thurston  performed  for 
the  Territory,  was  getting  an  appropriation  of  $100,000, 
to  pay  the  expense?  of  the  Cayuse  war.     From  the  Spring 
of  1848,  when  all  the  whites,  except  the  Catholic  mission- 
aries, were  withdrawn  from  the  upper  country,  for  a  pe- 


STATE  OF  THE  UPPER  COUNTRY. 


497 


IS  concerned,  he 


liod  of  several  years,  or  until  Government  had  made 
treaties  with  the  tribes  east  of  the  Cascades,  no  settlers 
were  permitted  to  take  up  land  in  Eastern  Oregon.  Dur- 
ino-  thosG  years,  the  Indians,  dissatisfied  with  the  encroach- 
ments which  they  foresaw  the  whites  would  finally  make 
upon  tlieir  countrj^,  and  incited  by  ceiiair.  individuals  who 
IkuI  suilered  wrongs,  or  been  punished  for  their  own  of- 
fences at  the  hands  of  the  whites,  finally  combined,  as  it 
was  supposed  from  the  extent  of  the  insurrection,  and 
Oregori  was  involved  in  a  three  years  Indian  war,  the  his- 
tory of  which  would  fill  a  volume  of  considerable  size. 

When  Meek  returned  to  Oregon  as  marshal,  with  his 
fine  clothes  and  his  newly  acquired  social  accomplish- 
ments, he  was  greeted  with  a  cordial  acknowledgment  of 
his  services,  as  well  as  admiration  f  r  his  improved  appear- 
ance. He  was  generally  acknowledged  to  be  the  model 
of  a  handsome  marshal,  w  n  clad  in  his  half-military 
dress,  and  placed  astride  of  a  line  horse,  in  the  execution 
of  the  more  festive  duties  of  marshu!  uf  a  procession  on 
some  patriotic  occasion,       :j  •  •■  ' ' 

But  no  amount  of  official  responsibility  could  evT 
change  him  from  a  wag  into  a  "grave  and  reverend 
seignior."  No  place  nor  occasion  was  sacred  to  liim  when 
the  wild  humor  was  on  him. 

At  this  satne  term  of  court,  after  the  conviction  <  '  the 
Cayuse  chiefs,  there  was  a  case  before  Judge  att,  in 
which  a  man  was  charged  with  selling  liquor  to  the  In- 
dians. In  these  cases  Indian  evidence  was  allowed,  but 
the  jury-room  being  up  stairs,  caused  a  good  deal  of 
annoyance  in  court ;  because  when  an  Indian  witness  was 
wanted  up  stairs,  a  dozen  or  more  who  were  not  wanted 
would  follow.  The  Judge's  bench  was  so  placed  that  it 
commanded  a  full  view  of  the  staircase  and  every  one 
passing  up  or  down  it. 
A  call  for  some  witness  to  go  before  the  jury  was  fol 


Ih"' 


..ilu£w*i 


498 


SCENE   IN   A   COURT-ROOM. 


'  i  '  I  r. 


lowed  on  this  occasion,  as  on  all  others,  by  a  general  rush 
of  the  Indians,  .  ho  were  curious  to  witness  the  proceed- 
ings. One  fat  old  squaw  had  got  part  way  up  the  stairs 
when  the  Marshal,  full  of  wrath,  seized  her  by  a  leg  and 
dragged  her  down  flat,  at  the  same  time  holding  the  fat 


MEEK    AS    UNITED   STATES    MARSHAL. 


member  so  that  it  was  pointed  directly  toward  the  Judge. 
A  general  explosion  followed  this  pointed  action,  and  the 
Judge  grew  very  red  in  the  face.  rr... 

"  Mr.  Marshal,  come  within  the  bar !"  thundered  the 
Judge.    .  •      ,.,  !:^!    \..o<;:  >?.. 

Meek  complied,  with  a  very  dubious  expression,  of 
countenance.  .;.:  oa(^  .•  . 

"  I  must  fine  you  fifty  dollars,"  continued  the  Judge; 
"the  dignity  of  the  Court  must  be  maintained." 

When  court  had  adjourned  that  evening,  the  Judge 
and  the  Marshal  were  walking  toward  their  respective 
lodgings.     Said  Meek  to  his  Honor :        v-.i.. 


JUDGE    NKLSON    AND    THE    CAIIPENTEUS. 


499 


ard  the  Judge, 
action,  and  the 


thundered  the 


"Why  d'v^  you  fine  me  so  heavily  to-day  ?"  '  '^ 

"  I  must  do  .c,"  returned  the  Judge.  "  I  must  keep  up 
the  dignity  of  the  Court ;  I  must  do  it,  if  I  pay  the  fines 
myself" 

"And  you  must  pay  all  the  fines  you  lay  on  the  marshal, 
of  course,"  answered  Meek. 

"  Very  well,"  said  the  Judge ;   "  I  shall  do  so." 

"All  right,  Judge.  As  I  am  the  proper  disbursing 
officer,  you  can  pay  that  fifty  dollars  to  me — and  I'll  take 
it  now." 

At  this  view^  of  the  case,  his  Honor  was  staggered  for 
one  moment,  and  could  only  swing  his  cane  and  laugh 
faintly.     After  a  little  reflection,  he  said  : 

"  Marshal,  when  court  is  called  to-morrow,  I  shall  remit 
vour  fine  ;  but  don't  you  let  me  have  occasiou  to  fine  you 


agaui ! 


I" 


After  the  removal  of  the  capital  to  Salem,  in  1852, 
court  was  held  in  a  new  building,  on  which  the  carpenters 
Avere  still  at  work.  Judge  Nelson,  then  presiding,  was 
much  put  out  by  the  noise  of  hammers,  and  sent  the 
marshal  more  than  once,  to  request  the  men  to  suspend 
their  work  during  those  hours  when  court  was  in  session, 
hut  all  to  no  purpose.  Firuilly,  when  his  forbearance  was 
quite  exhausted,  he  appealed  to  the  marshal  for  advice. 

"What  shall  I  do,  Meek,"  said  he,  "to  stop  that  in- 
fernal noise  ?" 

"Put  the  workmen  on  the  Grand  Jury,"  replied  Meek. 

"  Summon  them  instantly !"  returned  the  Judge.  They 
were  summoned,  and  quiet  secured  for  that  term. 

At  this  same  term  of  court,  a  great  many  of  the  foreign 
born  settlers  appeared,  to  file  their  intention  of  becoming 
American  citizens,  in  order  to  secure  the  benefits  of  the 
Donation  Law.  Meek  was  retained  as  a  witness,  to  swear 
to  their  qualifications,  one  of  which  was,  that  they  were 


^ 


■.y 


500 


THE  OREGON  COURT  ON  AN  EXCURSION. 


possessed  of  good  moral  characters.  The  first  day  there 
were  about  two  hundred  who  made  declarations,  Meek 
witnessing  for  most  of  them.  On  the  day  following,  he 
declined  serving  any  longer. 

"What  now?"  inquired  the  Judge;  "you  made  no 
objections  yesterday." 

"Very  true,"  replied  Meek;  "and  two  hundred  lies 
are  enough  for  me.  I  swore  that  all  those  mountain-men 
were  of  'good  moral  character,'  and  I  never  knew  a 
mountain-man  of  that  description  in  my  life  !  Let  Newell 
take  the  job  for  to-day." 

The  "job"  was  turned  over  to  Newell;  but  whether 
the  second  lot  was  better  than  the  first,  has  never  trans- 
pired. 

During  Lane's  administration,  there  was  a  murder  com- 
mitted by  a  party  of  Indians  at  the  Sound,  on  the  person 
of  a  Mr.  Wallace.  Owing  to  the  sparse  settlement  of  the 
country.  Governor  Lane  adopted  the  original  measure  of 
exporting  not  only  the  officers  of  the  court,  but  the  jury 
also,  to  the  Sound  district.  Meek  was  ordered  to  find 
transportation  for  the  court  in  toto,  jury  and  all.  Boats 
were  hired  and  provisioned  to  take  the  party  to  the 
Cowelitz  Landing,  and  from  thence  to  Fort  Steilacoom, 
horses  were  hired  for  the  land  transportation. 

The  Indians  accused  were  five  in  number — two  chiefs 
and  three  slaves.  The  Grand  Jury  found  a  true  bill 
against  the  two  chiefs,  and  let  the  slaves  go.  So  few 
were  the  inhabitants  of  those  parts,  that  the  marshal  was 
obliged  to  take  a  part  of  the  grand  jury  to  serve  on  the 
petite  jury.  The  form  of  a  trial  was  gone  through  with, 
the  Judge  delivered  his  charge,  and  the  jury  retired. 

It  was  just  after  night-fall  when  these  worthies  betook 
themselves  to  the  jury-room.  One  of  them  curled  him- 
self up  in  a  corner  of  the  room,  with  the  injunction  to 


THE    CHIEF  S   WIFE. 


501 


the  others  to  "  wake  him  up  when  they  got  ready  to  hang 

them    rascals."     The  rest  of  the  party  spent  four 

or  five  hours  betting  against  monte,  when,  being  sleepy 
also,  they  waked  up  their  associate,  spent  about  ten  min- 
utes in  arguing  their  convictions,  and  returned  a  verdict 
of  "guilty  of  murder  in  the  first  degree." 

The  Indians  were  sentenced  to  be  hung  at  noon  on  the 
following  day,  and  the  marshal  was  at  work  early  in  the 
morning  preparing  a  gallows.  A  rope  was  procured 
from  a  ship  lying  in  the  sound.  At  half-past  eleven 
o'clock,  guarded  by  a  company  of  artillery  from  the  fort, 
the  miserable  savages  were  marched  forth  to  die.  A 
large  number  of  Indians  were  collected  to  witness  the 
execution ;  and  to  prevent  any  attempt  at  rescue,  Captain 
Hill's  artillery  formed  a  ring  around  the  marshal  and  his 
prisoners.  The  execution  was  interrupted  or  delayed  for 
some  moments,  on  account  of  the  frantic  behavior  of  an 
Indian  woman,  wife  of  one  of  the  chiefs,  whose  entreaties 
for  the  life  of  her  husband  were  very  affecting.  Having 
exhausted  all  her  eloquence  in  an  appeal  to  the  nobler 
feelings  of  the  man,  she  finally  promised  to  leave  her 
husband  and  become  his  wife,  if  he,  the  marshal,  would 
spare  her  lord  and  chief        -^i"    -'i:^  ,, 

She  was  carried  forcibly  out  of  the  ring,  and  the  hang- 
ing took  place.  When  the  bodies  were  taken  down, 
Meek  spoke  to  the  woman,  telling  her  that  now  she  could 
have  her  husband ;  but  she  only  sullenly  replied,  "  You 
have  killed  him,  and  you  may  bury  him." 

This  excursion  of  the  Oregon  court  footed  up  a  sum  of 
about  $4,000,  of  which  the  marshal  paid  $1,000  out  of 
his  own  pocket.  When,  in  the  following  year,  Lane  was 
sent  to  Congress,  Meek  urged  him  to  ask  for  an  appropri- 
ation to  pay  up  the  debt.     Lane  made  no  effort  to  do  so, 


'mm 


502 


LANES  CAREER  IN  OREGON. 


probably  because  he  did  not  care  to  have  the  illegality  uf 
the  proceeding  commented  upon.  , 

Lane's  career  in  Oregon,  before  the  breaking  out  of  the 
rebellion,  the  betrayal  of  his  secession  proclivities,  and 
supposed  actual  conspiracy  against  the  Government,  was 
that  of  a  successi'ul  politician.     Having  been  appointed 
so  near  the  close  of  Polk's  administration,  he  was  suc- 
ceeded, on  the  coming  into  office  of  General  Taylor,  by 
General  John  P.  Gaines,  who  arrived  in  Oregon  in  xVugust, 
1850.     In  1851,  General  Lane  was  elected  delegate  to 
Congress,  and  returned  to  Oregon  as  Governor,  by  Frank- 
lin Pierce,  in  1853.     He  was  appointed  in  March,  arrived 
at  Salem  May   16th,   resigned  the  19th,  was  elected  to 
Congress  July  7th,  returning  again  to  Oregon,  where  he 
at  present  resides,  on  the  expiration  of  his  term.    His 
mileage  alone  amounted  to  $10,000,  besides  the  expenses 
of  his  first  overland  journey.     John  W.  Dg-vis  was  ne.xt 
appointed  Governor,  by  President  Pierce.     He  arrived  in 
Salem  April  1st,  1854,  and  resigned  in  August.     A  trip 
to  Oregon,  with  the  mileage,  appeared  to  be  quite  the 
fashion  of  territorial  times. 


;       ( 


ft,'   ■  :ir('V!."- 


J       ■    '■ 

!.^             1 

\ 

■  ■ 

Ia*.;,. 

! 

\ 
i     . 

■      ,   I:  , 

'  "  ' 

:  '.i 

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*'  *1 

'I 

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*\' 

-'•5 

■  ■""■'.'    t 

.,V 

h 

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'.-.., 

1 

fr.. 

•m'- 

■rn 

",■ 

J; 

;b|-. 

Ji££K   AS  UNITED   STATES   MAUaUAL. 


)03 


CHAPTER    XLiy, 


While  Meek  was  in  Washington,  he  had  been  dubbed 
with  the  title  of  Colonel,  which  title  he  still  bears,  though 
(luring  the  Indian  war  of  1855-56,  it  was  alternated  with 
that  of  Major.  During  his  raarshalship  he  was  fond  of 
showing  off  his  titles  and  authority  to  the  discomfiture  of 
that  class  of  people  who  had  "  put  on  airs "  with  him 
in  former  days,  when  he  was  in  his  transition  stage  from 
a  trapper  to  a  United  States  Marshal. 

While  Pratt  was  Judge  of  the  District  Court,  a  kidnap- 
ing case  came  before  him.  The  writ  of  habeas  corpus 
having  been  disregarded  by  the  Captain  of  the  Melvin^ 
who  was  implicated  in  the  business,  Meek  was  sent  to 
arrest  him,  and  also  the  first  mate.  Five  of  the  Melvin^s 
sailors  were  ordered  to  be  summoned  as  witnesses,  at  the 
same  time. 

Meek  went  on  board  with  his  summons,  marched  for- 
ward, and  called  out  the  names  of  the  men.  Every  man 
came  up  as  he  was  summoned.  When  they  were  together, 
Meek  ordered  a  boat  lowered  for  their  conveyance  to 
Oregon  City.  The  men  started  to  obey,  when  the  Cap- 
tain interfered,  saying  that  the  boat  should  not  be  taken 
for  such  a  purpose,  as  it  belonged  to  him. 

"  That  is  of  no  consequence  at  all,"  answered  the  smiling 
marshal.  "  It  is  a  very  good  boat,  and  will  suit  our  pur- 
pose very  well.     Lower  away,  men  ■ " 

The  men  quickly  dropped  the  boat.     As  it  fell,  they 


n.t 


sM'-f 


rV"  ",'."T' 


604 


THE    CAPTAIN    OF   THE   MELVIN. 


were  ordered  to  man  it.  When  they  were  at  the  oars 
tlie  mate  was  then  invited  to  take  a  seat  in  it,  wliicli  he 
did,  after  a  moment's  hesitation,  and  gUmeing  at  his  supe- 
rior officer.  Meek  then  turned  to  the  Captain,  and  ex- 
tended the  same  invitation  to  him.  But  lie  was  reluctant 
to  accept  the  courtesy,  blustering  considerably,  and  de- 
claring his  intention  to  remain  where  he  was.  Meek 
slowly  drew  his  revolver,  all  the  time  cool  and  smiling. 

"  I  don't  like  having  to  urge  a  gentleman  too  hard," 
ho  said,  in  a  meaning  tone  ;  "  but  thar  is  an  argument 
that  few  men  ever  resist.     Take  a  seat.  Captain." 

The  Captain  took  a  seat ;  the  idlers  on  shore  cheered 
for  "Joe  Meek" — which  was,  after  all,  his  most  familiar 
title ;  the  Captain  and  mate  went  to  Oregon  City,  and 
were  fined  respectively  $500  and  $300  ;  the  men  took 
advantage  of  being  on  shore  to  desert ;  and  altogether, 
the  master  of  the  Melvin  felt  himself  badly  used. 

About  the  same  time  news  was  received  that  a  British 
vessel  was  unloading  goods  for  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany, somewhere  on  Puget  Sound.  Under  the  new  order 
of  affairs  in  Oregon,  this  was  smuggling.  Delighted  with 
an  opportunity  of  doing  the  United  States  a  service,  and 
the  British  traders  an  ill  turn.  Marshal  Meek  immediately 
summoned  a  i)osse  of  men  and  started  for  the  Sound.  On 
his  way  he  learned  the  name  of  the  vessel  and  Captain, 
and  recognized  them  as  having  been  in  the  Columbia 
Biver  some  years  before.  On  that  occasion  the  Captain 
had  ordered  Meek  ashore,  when,  led  by  his  curiosity  and 
general  love  of  novelty,  he  had  paid  a  visit  to  this  vessel. 
This  information  v7as  "  nuts"  to  the  marshal,  who  believed 
that  "a  turn  about  was  fair  play." 

With  great '  dispatch  and  secrecy  he  arrived  entirely 
unexpected  at  the  point  where  the  vessel  was  lying,  and 
proceeded  to  board  her  without  loss  of  time.     The  Cap- 


■^ 


AllUEST    OF    A    HUrnsIl    KML'OOLEU. 


505 


tiiin  and  officers  were  taken  by  surprise  and  were  all 
aghast  at  this  uidooked  fur  appearance.  But  after  the 
lirst  iiioincnt  of  agitation  was  over,  tlie  Captain  recognized 
Meek,  lie  being  a  man  not  likely  to  be  forgotten,  and 
thinking  to  turn  this  circumstance  to  advantage,  approach- 
oil  him  with  the  blandest  of  smiles  and  the  most  cordial 
iiiiinner,  saying  with  forced  frankness — 

"  I  am  sure  J  have  had  the  i)leasure  of  meeting  you  be- 
fore. You  must  have  been  at  Vancouver  when  my  ves- 
sel was  in  the  river,  seven  or  eight  years  ago.  I  am  very 
lui{)py  to  have  met  with  you  again."  :  ' 

"Thar  is  some  truth  in  that  remark  of  yours.  Captain," 
replied  Meek,  eyeing  him  with  lofty  scorn;  "you  did 
meet  me  at  Vancouver  several  years  ago.  But  I  was 
iiotliing  but  'Joe  Meek  '  at  that  time,  and  you  ordered  me 
asliore.  Circumstances  are  changed  since  then.  I  am 
now  Colonel  Joseph  L.  Meek,  United  States  Marshal  for 
Oregon  Territory ;  and  you  sir,  are  only  a  smug- 
gler!    Go  ashore,  sir!" 

The  Captain  saw  the  point  of  that  concluding  "  go 
asliore,  sir!"  and  obeyed  with  quite  as  bad  a  grace  as  'Joe 
Meek '  had  done  in  the  first  instance. 

The  vessel  was  confiscated  and  sold,  netting  to  the  Gov- 
ernment about  $40,000,  above  expenses.  This  money, 
which  fell  into  bad  hands,  failed  to  be  accounted  for. 
Nobody  suspected  the  integrity  of  the  marshal,  but  most 
persons  suspected  that  he  placed  too  much  confidence  in 
the  District  Attorney,  who  had  charge  of  his  accounts. 
On  some  one  asking  him,  a  short  time  after,  what  had  be- 
come of  the  money  from  the  sale  of  the  smuggler,  he 
seemed  struck  with  a  sudden  surprise: 

''Why,"  said  he,  looking  astonished  at  the  question, 
''tliar  was  barly  enough  for  the  officers  of  the  court!" 

This  answer,  given  as  it  was,  with  such  apparent  simplic- 


i 


"„.l.l*ivfc».sll| 


500 


MISPLACED    CONFIDENCE    AND    THE    HESULT. 


ily,   ])GCJime  a  popular  juku ;  and  "  barly   enough"  wiia 
quoted  on  all  occasions.  ^ 

The  truth  was,  tliat  there  was  a  serious  deficiency  in 
Meek's  account  with  the  Government,  resulting  entirely 
from  his  want  of  confidence  in  his  own  literary  accom- 
plishments, which  led  him  to  trust  all  his  corrr>!5pondenoo 
and  his  accounts  to  the  hands  of  a  man  whose  talents  wero 
more  eminent  than  his  sense  of  honor.  The  result  of  this 
misplaced  confidence  was  a  loss  to  the  Government,  and 
to  himself,  whom  the  Government  held  accountable.  Con- 
trarv  to  the  general  rule  of  disbursing  officers,  ilie  office 
made;  him  poor  instead  of  rich ;  and  when  on  the  incom- 
ing of  the  Pierce  administration  he  suffered  dt.apitation 
along  with  the  other  Territorial  officers,  he  Wa-,  lo reed  to 
retire  upon  his  farm  on  the  Tualatin  Plains,  and  become  a 
rather  indifferent  tiller  of  the  earth. 

The  breaking  out  of  the  Indian  war  of  1855-6,  was 
preceded  by  a  long  period  of  uneasiness  among  the  Indi- 
ans generally.  The  large  emigration  which  crossed  the 
plains  every  year  for  California  and  Oregon  was  one  cause 
of  the  disturbance ;  not  only  by  exciting  their  fears  for 
the  possession  of  their  lands,  but  by  the  temptation  which 
was  offered  them  to  take  toll  of  the  travelers.  Difficulties 
occurred  at  first  between  the  emigrants  and  Indians  con- 
cerning stolen  property.  These  quarrels  were  followed, 
probably  the  subsequent  year,  by  outrages  and  murder 
on  the  part  of  the  Indians,  and  retaliation  on  the  part  of 
volunteer  soldiers  from  Oregon.  When  once  this  system 
of  outrage  and  retaliation  on  either  side,  w^as  begun,  there 
was  an  end  of  security,  and  war  followed  as  an  inevitable 
consequence.  Very  horrible  indeed  were  the  acts  per- 
petrated by  the  Indians  upon  the  emigrants  to  Oregon, 
during  the  years  from  1852  to  1858. 

But  when  at  last  the  call  to  arms  was  made  in  Oregon, 


■^^ 


INDIAN    DIHTUUBANCES — THE    AGENT    MUIIDKUED. 


507 


lade  in  Oregon, 


it  Wiis  iiii  opportunity  i^ought,  and  not  an  altcM-nativo 
forced  ui)on  tlioni,  hy  tho  politicians  of  that  Territory. 
Tiio  occasion  was  simply  this.  A  party  of  lawless  wretches 
from  the  Sound  Country,  passing  over  the  Cascade  Moun- 
tiiiiis  into  the  Yakima  Valley,  on  their  way  to  the  U{)per 
roliiiii'oia  mines,  found  some  Yakima  women  digging  roots 
ill  a  lonely  place,  and  abused  them.  The  women  fled  to 
thoir  village  and  told  the  chiefs  of  the  outrage ;  and  a  party 
followed  the  guilty  whites  and  killed  several  of  them  in  a, 
tight.  •■•  '        ''    '■  •  '•    ■  - 

Mr.  Bolin,  the  Indian  aub-agent  for  Washington  went 
to  the  Yakima  village,  and  instead  of  judging  of  the  case 
iiiipartially,  made  use  of  threats  in  the  name  of  the  United 
States  Government,  saying  that  an  army  should  be  sent  to 
punish  them  for  killing  his  people.  On  his  return  home, 
Mr.  Bolin  was  followed  and  murdered. 

The  murder  of  an  Indian  agent  was  an  act  which  could 
not  be  overlooked.  Very  properly,  the  case  should  have 
been  taken  notice  of  in  a  manner  to  convince  the  Indiana 
thiit  murder  must  be  punished.  But,  tempted  by  an  op- 
portunity for  gain,  and  encouraged  by  the  somewhat  rea- 
sonable fears  of  the  white  population  of  Washington  and 
Oregon,  Governor  G.  L.  Curry,  of  the  latter,  at  once  pro- 
claimed war,  and  issued  a  call  for  volunteers,  without  wait- 
ing for  the  sanction  or  assistance  of  the  general  Govern- 
ment. The  moment  this  was  done,  it  was  too  late  to  re- 
tract. It  was  as  if  a  torch  had  been  applied  to  a  field  of 
dry  grass.  So  simultaneously  did  the  Indians  from  Puget 
Sound  to  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  from  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains to  the  southern  boundary  of  Oregon  send  forth  the 
war-whoop,  that  there  was  much  justification  for  the  belief 
which  agitated  the  people,  that  a  combination  among  the 
Indians  had  been  secretly  agreed  to,  and  that  the  whites 
were  all  to  be  exterminated.   .^^^•^■■f«~M-^i'^*^-'"r'--''^^'-^'.-^-r^^f:-.^.* 


III 


M 


508 


THE   INDIAN   WAR    OF    1855-6.       '^ 


Volunteer  companies  were  already  raised  and  sert  into 
the  Indian  country,  when  Brevet  Major  G.  0.  Haller  ar- 
rived at  Vancouver,  now  a  part  of  the  United  States.  He 
had  been  as  flir  east  as  Fort  Boise  to  protect  the  incomino- 
immigration  ;  and  finding  on  his  return  that  there  was  an 
Indian  war  on  hand,  proceeded  at  once  to  the  Yakima 
country  v/ith  his  small  force  of  one  hundred  men  only 
lifty  Oi  whom  were  mounted.  Much  solicitude  was  felt 
for  the  result  of  the  lirst  engagement,  every  one  knowing 
that  if  the  Indians  weie  at  first  successful,  the  war  would 
be  long  and  bloody. 

Major  Haller  was  defeated  with  considerable  loss,  and 
notwithstanding  slight  reinforcements,  from  Fort  Vancou- 
ver, only  succeeded  in  getting  ".afely  out  of  the  country. 
Major  Raines,  the  commanding  officer  at  Vancouver,  seeing 
the  direction  of  events,  made  a  requisition  upon  Governor 
Curiy  for  .four  of  his  volunteer  corapauies  to  go  into  the 
field.  Then  followed  applications  to  Major  Raiiios  for 
horses  and  arms  to  equip  the  volunteers ;  but  the  horses 
at  the  Fort  being  unfit  for  se^-vice,  and  the  Major  unau- 
thorized to  equip  volunteer  troops,  there  resulted  only 
misunderstandings  and  delays.  When  General  Wool,  at 
the  head  of  the  Department  in  San  Francisco,  was  con- 
sulted, he  also  was  v.-ithout  authority  to  employ  or  receive 
the  voluntc  s;  and  when  the  volunteers,  who  at  length 
armed  and  equipped  themselves,  came  to  go  into  the  field 
with  the  regulars,  they  could  not  agree  as  to  the  mode  of 
fighting  Indians;  so  that  wnth  one  thing  and  another,  the 
war  became  an  exciting  topic  for  more  reasons  tnan  be- 
cau'?e  the  whiles  were  afraid  of  the  Indians.  As  for  Gen- 
eral Wool,  he  was  in  great  disfavor  both  in  Oregon  and 
Washington  because  he  did  not  believe  there  ever  had 
existed  the  necessity  for.  a  war ;  and  that  therefore  he 
bestowed  what  assistance  was  at  his  command  very  grudg- 


":!7|l'*fr-'^7*'"" 


OFFICEllS   OF    THE   WAR — VOLUNTEERS. 


509 


ingly.     General  \^'ool,  it  was  said,  was  jealous  of  the  vol- 
unteers; and  the  volunteers  certainly  cared  little  for  the 


OpiMlOll 


of  General  Wool. 


However  all  that  may  be,  Col.  Meek  gives  it  as  his  ophi- 
iou  that  the  old  General  was  right.  "  It  makes  me  think," 
SiiiJ  he,  "  of  a  bear-fight  1  once  saw  in  the  Rook}  Moun- 
tains, where  a  huge  old  grizzly  was  surrounded  by  a  pack 
of  ten  or  twelve  dogs,  all  snapping  at  and  worrying  him. 
It  made  him  powerful  mad,  and  every  now  and  then  he 
would  make  a  claw  at  one  of  tliem  that  silenced  him  at 
once." 

The  Indian  war  in  Oregon  gave  practice  to  a  number  of 
officers,  since  become  famous,  most  prominent  among 
whom  is  Sheridan,  who  served  in  Oregon  as  a  I.ieutenant. 
Grant  himself,  was  at  one  time  a  Captain  on  that  frontier. 
Col.  Wright,  afterwards  Geu.  Wright,  succeeded  Major 
Ranges  at  Vancouver,  and  conducted  the  war  through  its 
most  active  period.  During  a  period  of  three  years  there 
were  troops  constantly  occupied  in  trying  to  subdue  the 
Indians  in  one  quarter  or  another. 

As  for  the  volunteers  they  fared  badly.  On  the  first 
call  to  arms  the  people  responded  liberally.  The  proposi- 
tion which  the  Governor  made  for  their  equipment  was 
accepted,  and  they  turned  in  their  property  at  a  certain 
valuation.  When  the  war  was  over  and  the  property  sold, 
the  men  who  had  turned  it  in  could  not  purchase  it  with- 
out paying  more  for  it  in  gold  and  silver  than  it  was  val- 
ued at  when  it  was  placed  in  the  hands  of  the  Quarter- 
master. It  was  sold,  however,  and  the  money  enjoyed  by 
the  shrewd  political  speculators,  who  thought  an  Indian 
war  a  very  good  investment. 

Aleek  was  one  of  the  first  to  volunteer,  and  went  as  a 
private  in  Company  A.  On  arriving  at  the  Dalles  he  was 
detailed  for  special   scj'vice   by  Col.  J.  W.  Nesmith,  and 


■pit 


510 


MAJOR   MEEK   AS  A   VOLUNTEER. 


Is    1  " 


.  1 

i 
1         i 

t 

■ 

i 
I      \ 

■     :  1 

sent  out  as  pilot  or  messenger,  whenever  any  such  duty 
was  required.  He  -was  finally  placed  on  Nesraith's  staff 
ind  given  the  title  of  Major.  In  this  capacity,  as  in  every 
other,  he  was  still  the  same  alert  and  willing  individual 
that  we  have  always  seen  him,  and  not  a  whit  less  inclined 
to  be  merry  when  an  opportunity  offered. 

While  the  army  was  in  the  Yakima  country,  it  being  an 
enemy's  country,  and  provisions  scarce,  the  troops  some- 
times were  in  want  of  rations.  But  Meek  had  not  forgot- 
ten his  mountain  craft,  and  always  had  something  to  eat, 
if  anybody  did.  One  evening  he  had  killed  a  fat  cow 
which  he  had  discovered  astray,  and  was  proceeding  to 
roast  a  twenty-pound  piece  before  his  camp-fire,  when  a 
number  of  the  officers  called  on  him.  The  sight  and  sa- 
vory smell  of  the  beef  was  very  grateful  to  them. 

"Major  Meek,"  said  they  in  a  breath,  "we  will  sup  with 
you  to-night."         '  a-.... 

"I  am  very  sorry,  gentlemen,  to  decline  the  honor," 
returned  Meek  with  a  repetition  of  the  innocent  surprise 
for  which  he  had  so  often  been  laughed  at,  "but  lam 
very  hungry,  and  thar  is  barly  enough  beef  for  one 
man!" 

On  hearing  this  sober  assertion,  those  who  had  heard 
the  story  laughed,  but  the  rest  looked  rather  aggrieved. 
However,  the  Major  continued  his  cooking,  and  when  the 
beef  was  done  to  a  turn,  he  invited  his  visitors  to  the 
feast,  and  the  evening  passed  merrily  with  jests  and  camp 
stories. 

After  the  army  went  into  winter-quarters,  Nesmith  hav- 
ing resigned,  T.  U.  Cornelius  was  elected  Colonel.  One 
of  his  orders  prohibited  firing  in  camp,  an  order  which  as 
a  good  mountaineer  the  Major  should  have  remembered. 
But  having  been  instructed  to  proceed  to  Salem  without 
delay,  as  bearer  of  dispatches,  the  Major  committed  the 


"  MARKING    TIME." 


511 


oiTor  of  firing  his  gun  to  see  if  it  was  in  good  condition 
for  a  trip  through  the  enemy's  country.  Shortly  after  he 
received  a  message  from  his  Colonel  requesting  him  to 
repair  to  his  tent.  The  Colonel  received  him  politely,  and 
invited  him  to  breakfast  with  him.  The  aroma  of  cofiee 
Diacle  this  invitation  peculiarly  acceptable — for  luxuries 
^vere  scarce  in  camp — and  the  breakfast  proceeded  for 
some  time  very  agreeably.  When  Meek  had  breakfasted, 
Colonel  Cornelius  took  occasion  to  inquire  if  the  Major 
had  not  heard  hi^  order  against  firing  in  camp.  "  Yes," 
said  Meek.  "Then,"  said  the  Colonel,  "I  shall  be 
obliged  to  make  an  example  of  you." 

While  Meek  stood  aghast  at  the  idea  of  vanishment,  a 
guard  appeared  at  the  door  of  the  tent,  and  he  heard 
what  his  punishment  was  to  be,  "  Mark  time  for  twenty 
minutes  in  the  presence  of  the  whole  regiment." 

"When  the  command  "forward!  was  given,"  says  Meek, 
"you  might  have  seen  somebody  step  off  lively,  the  offi- 
cer counting  it  off,  'left,  left.'  But  some  of  the  regiment 
grumbled  more  about  it  than  I  did.  I  just  got  my  horse 
and  my  dispatches  and  left  for  the  lower  country,  and 
when  I  returned  I  asked  for  my  discharge,  and  got  it." 

And  here  ends  the  career  of  our  hero  as  a  pubhc  man. 
The  history  of  the  young  State,  of  which  he  is  so  old  a 
pioneer  furnishes  ample  material  for  an  interesting  volume, 
and  will  sometime  be  written  by  an  abler  than  our  sketchy 
pen.  One  thing  only  it  occurs  to  us  to  state  in  connec- 
tion with  it,  that  while  riany  Northern  men  went,  as  Gen. 
Lane  did,  into  the  rebellion  against  the  Government,  our 
nol)lcr  Virginian  was  ever  sternl}'-  loyal. 

The  chief  excitement  of  Col.  Meek's  life  at  present,  is 

ill  his  skirmishes  with  the  Nazerene  and  other  preachers 

in  his  neighborhood.     They  seem  not  to  be  able  to  see 

him  treading  so  gently  the  downhill  of  life,  when  they 

33 


!;i|Si 


I      i 


512 


END    OF    MEEK  S   PUBLIC    CAREER, 


fe 


II 


kf; 


fear  he  may  "  go  to  the  pit "  prepared  for  mountaiii-iimn, 
In  this  state  of  mind  they  preach  at  him  on  every  possible 
occasion,  whether  suitable  or  not,  and  usually  he  takes  it 
I  pleasantly  enough.     But  when  their  attacks  become  too 
■  personal,  he  does  as  did  the  bear  to  whom  he  likened  Gen. 
Wool,  he  "hits  one  a  claw  that  silences  him."     ,...,j,r,j,>,, 
Being  very  much  annoyed  on  one  occasion,  not  very 
long    since,    by    the    stupid    and    vulgar    L^peech  of  a 
"preacher  "  whom  he  complimented  by  going  to  hear,  he 
deliberately  marched  up  to  the  preacher's  desk,  took  the 
frightened  little  orator  on  his  hip,  and  carried  him  out  of 
the  house,  to  the  mingled  horror,  amazement,  and  amuse- 
ment of  the  congregation. 

We  think  that  a  man  who  at  fifty-eight  is  able  to  per- 
form such  a  feat,  is  capable  of  achieving  fresh  laurels,  and 
need  not  retire  upon  those  he  has  won. 


( 


,  ,,- 


fri    :. 


:.','U-L' 


■  A'    f.  i-;-'- 1 


•w. 


i      .   ■.,  .  .-,.y:,  |,l.,,J,i,'      ■l^Jd'^ltf 


■*         .J< 


THE   NORTHERN   PACIFIC   RAILROAD. 


513 


.•M>:  r  ,' 


.J ; ... ' 


.'V)i'')V  '  ji'<U'  :■■ 


^'(i..-. 


v.  J   .:•.■'[    '•     J'  ')'■;'/  itjr,  I  ij^/\.^; 


CHAPTER    XLV. 


';ji» 


It  was  no  part  of  the  original  intention  of  the  author 
of  the  foregoing  narrative  to  extend  the  work  beyond 
the  personal  adventures  of  one  man,  and  such  portions 
of  collateral,  history  as  were  necessary  to  a  perfect  under- 
standing of  the  times  and  events  spoken  of  But  since 
the  great  interest  which  the  public  have  taken  in  the 
opening  of  the  first  Pacific  Railroad  has  become  apparent, 
it  lias  been  deemed  expedient  to  subjoin  some  facts  con- 
cerning the  Western  Division  of  the  Northern  Pacific  Rail- 
road, now  in  contemplation,  and  to  become  a  reality, 
probably,  within  an  early  day. 

The  Northern  Pacific  Road  will  have  its  eu"tern  end 
somewhere  on  Lake  Superior,  and  its  western  term'-'us  at 
a  point  on  Puget's  Sound  not  yet  determined.  As  that 
portion  of  the  road  lying  west  of  Fort  Union,  on  the 
Missouri  River,  traverses  much  of  the  country  spoken  of 
iu  the  adventures  of  the  fur-traders,  as  well  as  all  the 
northern  part  of  what  was  once  the  Oregon  Territory, 
whose  early  history  we  have  already  given,  it  will  not  be 
found  altogether  irrelevant  to  enter  into  a  brief  descrip- 
tion of  the  country  so  soon  to  be  opened  to  the  traveling 
public.  Hitherto  we  have  roamed  it  in  imagination  as 
the  fur-traders  did,  bent  only  on  beaver-^kins  and  adven- 
ture. Now  we  will  briefly  consider  it  as  a  country  fit  for 
the  permanent  settlement  of  industrious  Peoples  seeking 
homes  for  themselves  and  the  coming  generations. 


li 


i) 


^^SBf 


614 


WESTERN    OREGON. 


Western  Oregon. — To  commence  with  the  oldest  set- 
tled portion  of  the  original  Oregon  Territory,  we  will 
first  describe  that  portiofi  of  the  present  State  of  Oreo'on 
technically  known  as  Western  Oregon.     All  that  portion 
of  the  State  of  Oregon  lying  Avest  of  the  Cascade  Moun- 
tains, is  comprised  in  three  principal  valleys — the  Walla- 
met,*  the  Umpqua,  and  the  Rogue  Ptiver  Valleys — and  in 
a  narrow  strip  of  country  lying  along  the  coast,  and  sepa- 
rated from  the  valleys  by  the  Coast  range  of  mountains. 
These  two  ranges  of  mountains,  the  Cascades,  high  and 
almost  inaccessible  on  the  east,  and  the  Coast  range,  sepa- 
rating it  from  the  sea  on  the  west,  make  of  Western  Ore 
gon  a  country  with  a  very  peculiar  geography.    With 
the  Columbia  River  for  a  northern  boundary,  and  with 
three  transverse  ranges  of  mountains  to  the  south,  sepa- 
rating the  several  valleys,  the  situation  of  Western  Oregon 
is  isolated  and  unique. 

The  Wallamet  River  takes  its  rise  in  the  Cascade  Moun- 
tains, flowing  westwardly  for  some  distance,  when  it  takes 
a  course  almost  directly  north,  and  falls  into  the  Columbia 
in  about  btitude  45°  30',  and  longitude  45°  40'.  The 
whole  length  of  this  river  is  probably  not  over  one  hun- 
dred and  seventy-five  miles  ;  and  the  extent  of  its  valley 
proper  is  in  the  neighborhood  of  one  hundred  and  twenty- 
five  miles  in  length,  by  from  sixty  to  eighty  in  breadth. 
Numerous  tributaries  flow  into  the  Wallamet  from  either 
side,  making  the  country  both  fertile  and  agreeable. 

The  Wallamet  Valley  is  mostly  open  prairie  land,  ready 
for  the  plowshare.  At  the  northern  end  of  it,  however, 
and  within  a  few  miles  of  the  Columbia,  there  are  dense 
forests  of  fir,  pine,  yew,  and  cedar,  on  all  the  high  and 
dry  lands,  while  the  bottom-lands  along  the  streams  are 

*  Incorrectly  spelled  on  the  maps,  WiUamette. 


THE    WALLAMET   VALLEY. 


515 


covered  with  a  fine  growth  of  oak,  ash,  maple,  cotton- 
wood,  alder,  and  willow.  But  as  we  travel  southward 
from  the  Columbia,  the  timber  along  the  Wallamet  be- 
comes less  dense,  until  finally  we  come  to  the  beautiful 
open  prairies,  only  half  hidden  from  view  by  a  thin  fringe 
of  low  trees,  and  picturesquely  dotted  here  and  there  by 
oToves  of  oak  and  fir  intermingled.  ; 

The  Prairies  of  Western  Oregon  do  not  resemble  the 
immense  flat  plains  of  Illinois  ;  but  are  rather  gently  un- 
dulating, and  bear  a  strong  likeness  to  the  "  oak  open- 
ings" of  Michigan  and  Wisconsin.  Instead  of  being  con- 
tinuous levels,  they  are  divided  by  low  ranges  of  hills, 
covered  with  oak  timber,  low  and  spreading,  and  draped, 
like  the  trees  of  the  Sacramento  Valley,  with  a  long 
hanging  gray  moss,  that  floats  lightly  on  the  summer 
wind,  as  if  celebrating  the  delightful  mildness  and  beauty 
of  the  scene. 

The  Wallamet,  although  navigable  for  one  hundred  and 
thirty  miles  from  its  mouth,  is,  like  all  the  rivers  west  of 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  troubled  with  rapids,  and  narrowed 
in  some  places  to  little  more  than  the  width  of  the  passing 
steamer.  In  the  latter  part  of  summer,  steamers  cannot 
ascend  it  beyond  Salem,  the  capital  of  the  State.  Of  its 
ten  principal  tributaries,  most  of  them  are  navigable  for 
considerable  distances,  and  all  of  them  furnish  abundant 
water-power.  ••  .?>-.,.  .«.^-"-..--*-r  ....«,...-,  . 

The  Falls  of  the  Wallamet^  about  twenty -five  miles 
from  its  junction  with  the  Columbia,  furnish  the  greatest 
water-power  in  the  State,  as  also  some  fine  scenery. 
Above  the  falls,  the  water  spreads  out  into  a  wide,  deep 
basin,  and  runs  slowly  and  smoothly  until  within  a  half- 
mile  of  the  falls,  when  its  width  diminishes,  its  velocity 
iccreases,  and  in  its  haste  it  turns  back  upon  itself,  form- 
ing dangerous  eddies,  until  at  length,  forced  forward,  it 


III 


616 


WESTERN   OREGON. 


nivA   5IHT 


!  I 


t 

1 

1 

;{:.:' 

1 1 ; . 

1 

' '  c 

1 

W 

5 

1"  ,.„ 

i 

makes  the  plunge  of  more  than  twenty  feet,  into  a  boilinff 
whirlpool  below,  and  breaks  into  foam  along  a  ledge  of 


volcanic  rock  stretching  from  shore  to  shore.     The 


spray, 


dashed  up  by  the  descent  of  the  water,  forms  a  beautiful 
rainbow,  besides  being  a  means  of  cooling  the  hot  air  of 
the  summer  noon  at  Oregon  City,  which  is  situated  aW 
the  rocky  bluffs  at  this  point  of  the  river. 

The  navigation  of  the  river  thus  interrupted,  formerly 
necessitated  a  portage  of  a  couple  of  miles  at  Oregon 
City  ;  but  recently  the  People's  Transportation  Company 
have  erected  a  strong  basin  on  the  east  side  of  the  river, 
which  permits  their  boats  to  come  so  close  together  that 
the  passengers  and  freight  have  only  to  pass  through  the 
Company's  warehouse  to  be  transferred. 

The  amount  of  agricultural  land  in  the  Wallamet  Val- 
ley is  estimated  at  about  three  million  acres.  This  esti- 
mate leaves  out  large  bodies  of  land  in  the  foot-hills  of 
the  mountains,  on  either  side,  more  suitable  for  grazing 
than  for  farming  purposes.  g-i,  m  -. 

Tlie  Soil  of  the  Wallamet  Valley  is  of  excellent  quahty. 
Upon  the  prairies  it  consists  of  gray,  calcareous,  sandy 
loam,  especially  adapted  to  the  cultivation  of  cereals,  par- 
ticularly of  wheat,  barley,  and  oats.  It  is  exceedingly 
mellow  and  easily  worked,  and  is  not  affected  by  drouth. 
Along  the  banks  of  the  river,  and  the  streams  tributary 
to  it,  the  soil  consists  of  various  decomposed  earths,  sand, 
and  vegetable  matter,  deposited  there  in  seasons  of  freshet, 
and  is  of  the  most  fertile  description.  The  soil  of  the 
foot-hills  is  a  dark  clay  loam,  mixed  with  vegetable  mold 
in  the  small  intervening  valleys.  Excellent  grasses  are 
produced,  though  this  kind  of  soil  suffers  more  from 
drouth  than  that  of  the  prairies.  »-t 
.  The  Climate  of  the  Wallamet  FaZZe?/ is  mild  and  agreeable. 
The  seasons  are  two, — the  wet  and  the  dry.     The  rainy 


THE    CLIMATE    OF    THE    WALLAMET   VALLEY. 


517 


soason  usually  commences  in  November,  although  fre- 
quently it  holds  off,  except  a  few  light  showers,  until  De- 
ceniber.  The  rains  continue  pretty  constantly  until  about 
the  last  of  January,  when  there  is  a  clearing  up  of  three 
or  four  weeks.  This  interval  is  the  real  winter  season, 
and  is  sometimes  cold,  with  frozen  ground,  or  snow,  though 
(renerally  the  Oregon  winters  are  not  characterised  either 
by  cold  or  snow  to  any  great  amount.  After  this  "clear 
spell "  comes  a  second  season  of  rains  which  may  clear  up 
by  the  first  of  March,  or  not  until  April.  It  is  not  an  un- 
usual thing  for  gardening  to  be  commenced  in  February ; 
but  the  result  of  this  early  gardening  is  not  always  sure. 

Whci-  the  rains  of  winter  have  passed,  there  are  occa- 
sional showers  until  the  first  of  July,  after  which  there  is 
a  dry  period  of  four  months.     This  dry  season  instead  of 
being  oppressive,  as  would  be  the  case  in  the  Atlantic 
States,  is  most  delightful.     Sufficient  moisture  is  borne  in 
from  the  sea,  over  the  tops  of  the  Coast  range  to  make  the 
air  of  a  fine  coolness  and  freshness,  and  not  enough  to 
make  it  humid.     Thus  there  is  a  fine,  dry,  cool  air,  with  a 
moderate  temperature,  and  a  dry  warm  earth,  which  makes 
an  Oregon  summer  the  most  charming  season  to  be  expe- 
rienced in  any  part  of  the  world.     The  nights  are  always 
cool  enough  to  make  a  blanket  necessary.     The  mornings 
bright  and  not  too  hot — the  heated  term  during  dog-days 
only  extending  over  the  hours  from  12  M.  to  4  P.  M. 

That  a  climate  such  as  this  must  be  healthful  is  undeni- 
able. During  the  falling  of  the  rains  there  is  little  or  no 
sickness.  Just  after  the  rain  ceases  falling,  and  before  the 
earth  becomes  dry,  the  rapid  evaporation  causes  colds  and 
coughs  to  the  careless  or  the  inexperienced.  Through  the 
dry  season  there  is  little  sickness  except  in  certain  locali- 
ties where,  as  in  all  new  countries,  malaria  is  formed  by 
the  exposure  to  the  sun  of  new  or  submerged  soils. 


518 


WESTERN    OREGON. 


■■■ 

■    ■ 

•  i! 

^      f 

; 

One  of  the  faults,  so  to  speak,  of  Western  Oregon  is 
its  mildness  of  climate.  The  af^ricultural  population  are 
prone  to  be  negligent  in  providing  for  that  irregular,  and 
uncertainly  certain  occasional  visitation,  a  "  hard  winter." 
Therefore  the  stock-raiser  who  has  his  sevei-al  hundred 
head  of  cattle  and  hor.scs  ranging  his  one  or  two  thousand 
acres  of  uplands,  and  who,  trusting  in  Providence,  makes 
no  sufficient  provision  for  a  month  or  six  weeks  of  feed- 
ing, is  liable  once  in  five  to  eight  years,  to  lose  nearly  all 
of  his  stock.  T)id  this  same  stock-raiser  have  to  get  his 
cattle  througli  seven  months  of  winter  as  many  eastern 
farmers  do,  he  might  come  at  last  to  be  willing  to  provide 
for  the  possible  six  weeks.  Cattle  in  Oregon  generally 
look  poor  in  the  spring,  because  the  farmers  allow  them 
to  shift  for  themselves  all  through  the  rainy  season,  which 
they  should  not  do.  For  this  reason.  Western  Oregon,  al- 
though naturally  the  best  of  dairy  countries,  furnishes  lit- 
tle butter  and  cheese,  and  that  often  of  a  poor  quality. 
An  influx  of  Central  New  York  dairymen  would  greatly 
benefit  the  state,  and  develop  one  of  its  surest  means  of 
wealth. 

The  Productions  of  the  Wallamet  Valley  are  wheat,  oats, 
barley,  rye,  wool,  and  fruits.  All  of  the  grains  grow 
abundantly,  and  are  of  unusual  excellence.  The  same  is 
true  of  such  fruits  a.s  apples,  pears,  plums,  cherrie?,  cur- 
rants, gooseberries,  strawberries,  blackberries,  raspberries, 
etc.  In  fact  all  fruits  do  well  in  Western  Oregon,  except 
grapes,  peaches,  apricots,  nectarines,  and  that  class  of 
fruits  which  love  a  dry  and  hot  climate.  Grapes  and 
peaches  can  be  raised  with  sufficient  care,  but  are  not  a 
natural  crop  like  the  first  mentioned  fruits.  Corn  is  not 
raised  as  a  crop,  on  account  of  the  cool  nights,  which  are 
not  favorable  to  its  ripening.     ..  ■''♦:•    :<;..':   '  '-^^hm 

The  Untpqiia  Valley  is  that  portion  of  Western  Oregon 


TUE    COAST    COUNTRY. 


519 


next  south  of  the  Wallamct  Valley,  being  divided  from  it 
by  a  range  of  mountains  bearing  tlio  Indian  name  of  Cala- 
pooya.  It  is  a  region  not  so  well  fitted  for  grain-raising 
as  tlic  Wallamet  valley,  but  is  perhaps  superior  as  a  fruit- 
growing and  wool-raising  section.  The  valley  is  watered 
by  the  Umpqua  River,  and  is  broken  up  into  numerous 
hills  and  valleys,  in  the  most  picturesque  manner.  It  is 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  portions  of  the  Pacific  Coast, 
being  rolling,  well,  without  being  densely  wooded,  and 
having  a  very  agreeable  climate,  with  rather  less  rain  than 
Mis  in  the  lower  altitude  of  the  Wallamet. 

The  Rogue  River  Valley  is  another  division  of  Western 
Oregon,  divided  from  the  Umpqua  vnlley  by  a  range  of 
mountains  bearing  the  name  of  Umpqua.  It  resembles 
the  country  just  described  in  general,  but  has  a  climate 
which  is  a  happy  mixture  of  Californian  dryness  and  Oro- 
gonian  moisture.  It  is  not  considered  a  grain-growing  coun- 
try to  any  great  extent ;  not  from  any  inadaptability  of 
the  soil,  but  because  it  is  a  very  superior  grazing  and  fruit- 
growing country,  and  has  also  a  considerable  mining  noto- 
riety. It  is  separated  from  northern  California  by  the 
Liskiyou  range  of  mountains,  and  watered  by  the  Rogue 
River  and  its  northern  tributaries. 

The  Coast  Country  consists  of  a  strip  of  land  from  five 
to  twelve  miles  wide,  lying  between  the  westernmost  range 
of  mountains  in  Oregon,  and  the  sea.  It  contains  several 
counties,  whose  chief  agricultural  merits  consist  in  the  ex- 
cellence of  their  grasses  and  vegetables.  Fruit  too,  grows 
very  well  in  the  Coast  counties.  Hops  and  honey,  as  well 
as  butter,  are  among  their  chief  farming  products.  But 
the  greatest  wealth  of  the  Coast  counties  is  probably  to  be 
derived  from  the  heavy  forests  of  timber  which  cover  the 
mountain  sides ;  and  from  the  mines  of  coal  and  copper 
which  underlie  them.  .  ,m^s<i::\ 


520 


WESTKUX    OREGON. 


1 

1: 

:         ,    ' 

A  number  of  points  have  already  become  quite  famous 
for  business  along  the  coast ;  Coose  Bay  for  its  coal  und 
lumber;  Tilamook  for  its  oysters;  and  Yaquina  for  its 
good  harborage,  and  easy  access  through  a  fine  natural 
pass  to  the  heart  of  the  Wallainet  valley.  The  port  of 
Umpqua  once  promised  to  become  a  point  of  some;  imjwt- 
ance,  but  latterly  has  fallen  into  neglect  from  the  difiioulty 
of  communicating  thence  with  the  interior. 

The  climate  of  the  Coast  counties  is  cooler  and  more 
moist  than  that  of  the  valleys  to  the  eastward,  on  account 
of  their  contiguity  to  the  sea.     Their  soil  is  deep,  black, 
and  rich,  supporting  an  immense  growth  of  shrubbery, 
and  ferns  from  ten  to  fourteen  feet  in  height.     The  prai- 
rie spots  are  covered  with  grass,  and  so  are  the  hill-sides 
wherever  the  timber  is  not  too  dense.     Though  the  mean 
temperature  of  the  Coast  counties  is  lower  than  that  of  the 
interior,  it  is  also  more  even ;  and  the  sea-fogs  in  summer 
as  well  as  the  rains  in  winter  serve  to  keep  the  natural 
grasses  in  excellent  condition.     In  short  every  circum- 
stance seems  to  point  to  the  Coast  counties  of  Oregon  as 
the  great  dairy  region  of  the  Pacific  Coast,  as  the  valleys 
of  the  interior  are  the  granaries,  and  the  hill-sides  the 
sheep-pastures. 

Good  feed  the  year  round,  grain  enough  for  the  wants 
of  the  farmer,  plenty  of  cold  mountain  water,  abundance 
of  timber,  plenty  of  game  and  fish,  are  all  inducements  to 
the  settler  who  wishes  to  make  himself  a  permanent  home 
on  the  Pacific  Slope.  These,  added  to  the  wealth  yet  to 
be  developed  in  mines  and  lumber  at  every  opening  where 
a  vessel  of  a  hundred  tons  can  enter,  make  the  future  of 
these  now  almost  vacant  Coast  counties  look  inviting. 
•  Resume  of  the  Soil^  Climate  and  Resources  of  Western 
Oregon. — From  the  foregoing  general  description  of  West- 
ern Oregon  it  will  be  seen  that  the  country  lying  between 


ROIL,    CLIMATR,    nESOUIVES. 


521 


the  Cascade  Mountains  and  the  Coast  range,  consists  of 
one  valley  containing  about  as  much  agricultural  land  of 
the  best  quality  as  would  make  a  State  of  the  size  of  Con- 
necticut, and  two  other  smaller  valleys,  with  a  less  ])ropor- 
tioii  of  farming  land,  and  a  greater  proportion  of  hill  and 
piistiire  lands.  Also  that  between  the  Coast  range  and 
the  ocean  is  a  strip  of  country  wide  enough  for  a  tier  of 
counties,  peculiarly  adapted  to  grazing  purposes,  yet  not 
without  considerable  arable  land.  '■■•■■ 

No  one  can  survey  the  Wallaraet  Valley  without  being 
struck  with  its  beauty  and  its  fertility,  and  nniny  are  found 
who  pronounce  it  the  most  beautiful  sj)ot  in  America.  Its 
beauty  consists  in  the  agreeable  intermixture  of  level  or 
rolling  prairies,  with  ranges  of  low  hills,  dotted  with  oak 
timber,  in  the  multitude  of  its  winding  rivers,  along  which 
grow  a  skirting  of  graceful  trees,  and  in  the  grandeur  of 
the  mountains  which  guard  it  alike  from  the  heat  of  the 
eastern  deserts,  and  the  cold  of  the  northern  ocean.  Its 
fertility  is  evident  from  the  mighty  forests  which  mantle 
the  hills  in  everlasting  green,  and  from  the  grassy  plains 
which  year  after  year  clothe  the  valley  with  renewed  ver- 
dure, as  well  as  from  the  golden  harvest  fields  which  man 
has  interspersed  among  the  universal  green.    r';-s'>;i, 

The  question  which  first  suggests  itself  is  concerning 
the  durability  of  the  soil  which  picjduces  so  well  in  a  wild 
state.  A  sketch  of  the  history  of  agriculture  in  Oregon 
will  serve  to  point  to  an  answer.  ••'^^"--••^"    ';*• 

Many  portions  of  Oregon  have  been  cultivated  for  a 
period  of  twenty-five  years  without  any  of  those  aids  to 
the  soil,  or  that  care  in  preparation  and  cultivation  which 
is  thought  necessary  to  keep  up  the  quality  of  soils  in 
other  farming  States.  This  thriftless  mode  of  farming  was 
the  result,  partly  of  an  absence  of  laborers  and  good 
forming  utensils,  for  the  first  fifteen  years  of  the  occupa- 


522 


WESTERN   OREGON. 


tion  of  Oregon  by  a  farming  community.  From  the  neces- 
sity of  poor  funning  grew  tlie  habit.  It  was  found  that  tluj 
earth  would  continue  to  produce  Y/hon  only  half-cultivated 
hence  farmers  grew  indolent  from  too  great  security.  Tho 
great  regularity  of  the  seasons  too,  by  which  the  maturiiiu 
of  crops  became  a  certainty,  contributed  to  this  general 
indillerence,  for  it  is  an  established  fact  that  in  order  to 
work  well,  men  must  be  in  some  sort  compelled  to  work. 

Another  reason  why  farmers  have  not  put  themselves 
upon  their  mettle  in  a  generous  emulation,  was,  that  for 
many  years  farm  products  were  worth  little  or  nothing  for 
want  of  a  market.  All  these  reasons  conspired  to  confirm 
a  habit  of  indifferent  cultivation,  which  accident  and  the 
condition  of  the  country  first  forced  upon  them.  Yet 
these  same  lands  do  not  appear  to  have  suffered  very  ma- 
terially from  this  long  course  of  impoverishment.       yr^-  , 

Yet  another  cause  of  poor  farming  has  been  in  the  fact 
of  so  large  bodies  of  land  having  been  held  as  sing]  3  farms. 
It  is  impossible,  of  course,  for  one  family  to  cultivate  a 
mile  square  of  land.  Hence  a  little  grain  was  scratched 
in  on  one  portion  of  the  claim,  and  a  little  more  on  another, 
and  till  so  scattered,  and  carelessly  done  that  no  first-rate 
crops  CO  aid  possibly  be  obtained. 

The  soil  of  the  prairies  is  of  a  dark  gray  color,  is  mel- 
low, and  not  affected  by  drouth.  It  is  especially  adapted 
to  cereals,  and  grows  vegetables  and  fruits  well,  but  not 
so  well  as  the  more  alluvial  soil  formed  immediately  along 
the  banks  of  the  rivers  and  streams.  It  is  found,  too,  that 
thc.u  portion  of  the  prairie  which  grows  ferns,  and  the  land 
which  skirts  the  oak  groves,  or  has  been  clean  i  of  tim- 
ber, is  more  favorable  to  fruit-growing  than  the  more 
compact  soil  of  the  prairie.  The  timbered  lands  every 
where  are  productive,  excepting  occasional  clay  ridges 
where  pines  are  found.     The  prairies  still  furnish  grass  in 


SOIL,    CLIMATE,    RESOURCES. 


523 


From  the  ncccs- 
ras  found  that  tlio 
Ij  half-ciiltivateil 
It  security.  The 
lich  the  maturiii" 
to  this  geneml 

that  in  order  to 
mpellcd  to  work, 
t  put  themselves 
on,  was,  that  for 
tie  or  nothing  for 
spired  to  confirm 
accident  and  the 
pon  them.  Yet 
uffered  very  ina- 
shment. 

been  in  the  fact 
d  as  sing]  i  farms. 
y  to  cultivate  a 
1  was  scratched 
nore  on  another, 
that  no  first-rate 

•ay  color,  is  mel- 
pccially  adapted 
ts  well,  but  not 
mediately  along 
;  found,  too,  that 
'ns,  and  the  land 
clean  d  of  tim- 
than  the  more 
ed  lands  every- 
nal  clay  ridges 
furnish  grass  in 


abuiuhincc  for  hay,  but  not  of  such  quality  nor  in  such 
(juantity  as  the  swampH,  swales,  and  beaver-dams  nejir  the 
rivers  and  in  the  heavy  timber  when  drained  and  cleared. 
Of  tlie  several  varieties  of  soil  in  Western  Oregon, 
tliere  are  none  that  are  not  sufficiently  productive  to  in- 
vite luljor  witli  a  promise  of  reward.  The  whole  face  of 
the  country  is  productive,  and  when  ver  the  hillsides  are 
not  too  steep  to  pitch  a  tent,  those  things  needed  by  man 
may  be  made  to  grow  abundantly. 

Climate,  however,  and  the  shape  of  the  country  govern 
?iieii  in  their  selection  of  occupations.  The  grain-farmer 
;,ill  keep  to  the  valleys;  the  fruitgrower  will  occujiy  the 
gentle  slopes  of  the  lowest  hills ;  the  stock-raiser  will  set- 
tle among  the  foot-hills,  and  take  his  sheep  to  the  moun- 
tains; while  the  dairy-man  will  seek  those  spots  whore 
grass  is  good  for  the  longest  period  of  time,  and  where 
the  temperature  favors  the  making  of  good,  solid  and 
sweet  butter  and  cheese. 

Tlie  nights  in  Western  Oregon  are  always  cool,  and  sleep 
becomes  a  regular  refreshment.  It  is  owing  to  the  low 
temperature  of  the  nights  that  corn  and  some  varieties  of 
fruit  have  commonly  failed.  However  the  proper  cultiva- 
tion Avill  yet  produce  thone  things  in  a  sufficient  abundance. 
Good  corn  has  been  raised  in  Western  Oregon,  and  pciiches 
of  splendid  size  and  flavor  occasionally  find  their  way  to 
market.  Apples,  cherries,  and  plums  of  unequalled  size 
and  e.^cellence  grow  in  astonishing  profusion. 

The  winters  of  Western  Oregon,  though  rainy,  are  gen- 
erally mild.  The  principal  hardship  of  the  rainy  season 
consists  in  simply  enduring  the  monotony  of  the  dull  sky 
and  constant  rain.  It  is,  however,  a  favorable  climate  for 
the  farmer,  since  he  is  not  forced  to  work  hard  all  the 
summer  to  raise  what  his  stock  will  need  to  eat  through 


524 


WESTERN    OREGON. 


the  winter.     A  fortnight's  feed  usually  suffices  for  tlie 
wintcrinf^  of  cattle. 

The  following  tables  show  the  comparative  mean  tem- 
peratures of  three  points  in  Oregon,  with  four  in  other 
States ;  also  the  number  of  rainy  days  in  Oregon  and  Illi- 
nois, respectively : 

■■■■diV     V. 

Table  I. — Shoicing  Comparative  Mean  Temperatures. 


Time. 

a 

a 
o 
fee 

O 

1 

§ 

O 
0 

w 

H 

Q 

'o 

e 

3 

1 

a 

o 
to 

o 

s 

a 

rt 

02 

1 

3 
5 

Q 

Years  of  Obstnration   .... 

n 

1* 

3J 

11? 

2 

42.33 
69.95 
42.60 
13.06 
41.97 

H 

24 

47.61 
70.17 
50.01 
25.83 
48.41 

•'8 

47.3Gi 
71.42^ 
50.34 i 
25.8s 
48.75 

Spring  Temperature 

Summer         "            

Autumn         "            

Winter           "            

Whole  Time  "            

51.16 
61.36 
53.55 
42.43 
52.13 

52.19 
67.13 
5.S.41 
39.27 
53.00 

53.00 
70.36 
52.21 
35.59 
52.79 

51.34 
72.51 
53.38 
29.80 
51.76 

59.97 
71.08 
64.36 
52.29 
61.93 

The  only  point  in  Eastern  Oregon,  whose  temperature 
is  exhibited  in  this  table,  is  Dalles,  which,  situated  as  it 
is,  immediately  at  the  base  of  the  Cascade  Mountains, 
does  not  fairly  reprr-sent  the  temperature  of  the  extensive 
valleys  farther  east,  which  constitute  the  agiicultural  re 
gion  of  that  country.  The  summer,  in  most  of  those  val- 
leys, as  well  as  on  the  table-lands,  is  much  waraiov  than  at 
the  Dalies.  The  winter  temperature,  it  will  be  obsi>rved, 
is  muc''!  higher  than  that  of  other  States  in  the  ^me  lati 
tude,  while  that  of  the  spring  is  nearly  the  same,  and  the 
summer  not  quite  so  high. 


"^  t    •    T 


SOIL,    CLIMATE,    BESOURCES. 


525 


suffices  for  the 


,'  ,..u' 


rative  mean  tem- 

th  four  in  other 

Oregon  and  Illi- 

nperaturen. 


c 

a  i ;-  '^ 

3 

s 

1 

Q 

a 

< 

2 

H 

24 
47.61 

3i 
47.36 

2.33 

.59.97 

9.95 

71.08 

70.17 

71.42 

2.60 

64.36 

50.01 

50.34 

3.06 

52.29 

25.83 

25.88 

1.97 

61.93 

48.41 

48.75 

ose  temperature 
h,  situated  as  it 
mde  Mountains, 
of  the  extensive 

agricultural  re 
ost  of  thow  val- 

warmov  than  at 
ill  l>e  oKwH'ved, 
u  the  ^me  lati 
«  same,  aud  the 


T.tui-E  Jl.— Showing  (he  Number  of  Rainy  Days  during  the  Winter,  nt  Astoria, 
Oirtjon,  Widlaintt  Vallrij,  On-gou,  and  Peoria,  Illinois,  respectively. 


Month. 


^  Xuvcmbcr .  .  . 
I  Ui'cember .  .  . 

Jaiiiiiiry .... 

February  .  .  . 

Total 


Astoria,  Oregon. 

vull^v.  c).!  ^  *■"'•"'•  '"• 

1857-8 

1858-9 

J  859-60 

1856-7 

1856-7 

1857-8 

21 

16 

19 

9 

9 

16 

25 

14 

15 

13 

10 

7 

17 

19 

19 

15 

4 

6 

9 

20 

17 

70 

6 

10 

8 

72 

69 

43 

83 

37 

This  table  includes  all  rainy  days,  without  reference  to 
whether  it  rained  all  day,  or  only  a  part.  It  also  includes 
snowy  days,  very  few  of  which  are  seen  in  Oregon,  in  an 

ordinary  winter.     ,/•■,.-,•■•.■,-.  -,■,., ;,.,..   »..  „,,...,,;  .„r, ..,,...; 

The  climate  of  Oregon  has  proven  to  be  a  healthful  one 
(luring  a  thirty  years'  residence  of  some  of  the  earliest 
missionaries  and  settlers.  So  far  as  natural  causes  are  con- 
cerned, there  appears  to  be  none  for  the  promotion  of 
disease,  if  we  except  the  tendency  to  pulmonary  and  rheu- 
matic diseases  for  which  both  California  and  Oregon  are 
famed,  and  which  no  doubt  is  to  be  credited  to  the  cold 
winds  from  the  ocean.  These  winds  in  themselves  are  a 
siinitary  provision  of  nature,  and  servo  to  give  the  Pacific 
coast  a  climate  generally  free  from  mia>5raatic  and  pestilen- 
tial diseases ;  but  it  is  necessary  for  sensitive  constitiitioiis 
10  guard  against  the  rapid  change  of  temperature  which 
they  effect  when  they  come  ."sweeping  in  from  the  sea, 
■suddonly  displacing  the  warm  air  of  the  valleys.  With 
IMvper  ca>\\  and  attention  to  the  most  manifest  laws  of 
he.iHh,  the  physical  man  has  a  bitter  opportunity  for  mag- 
nitioont  development,  on  the  Pacific  cot.->t,  than  in  any 
other  part  of  the  Amer'oan  continent 

Whllo  the  wintei's  of  Western  Oregon  are  dull 


62() 


WESTERN   OREGON. 


agreeable,  the  summers  arc  proportionately  deliohifQl 
The  general  temperature  of  tlie  days  is  mild  and  a<Teea- 
])le,  the  air  bright  and  clear,  warmer  in  the  aftornoons 
than  in  the  mornings,  invariably  ;  yet  falling  again  to  an 
invigorating  coohiess  in  the  evening.  Sultriness  is  almost 
never  experienced  in  this  part  of  Oregon.  The  greatest 
heat  of  summer  has  not  that  enervating  effect  which  the 
summer-heats  have  in  the  Atlantic  States.  It  is  frequently 
remarked  by  the  farmers  here  that  their  cattle  can  cudure 
to  work  right  on  under  the  hottest  sun  of  summer  with- 
out showing  signs  of  exhaustion,  as  they  would  have  done 
in  those  States  from  which  they  were  brought. 

From  the  peculiarities  of  the  soil,  seasons,  and  climate 
of  Western  Oregon,  it  becomes  necessary  for  the  farmer 
to  practice  modes  of  culture  especially  adapted  to  it,  and 
to  conform  to  other  seed-time  than  that  he  may  have  been 
accustomed  to  in  other  States.  Much  can  undoubtedly 
be  learned  from  old  Oregon  farmers ;  but  a  careful  obser- 
vation from  year  to  year,  with  a  little  judicious  experi- 
ment, will,  we  hope,  develop  among  the  newer  settlers 
a  better  manner  of  farming  than  that  formerly  practiced 
in  Oregon,  when  one  year's  cultivation  was  made  to  an- 
swer for  three  years'  crops— the  two  latter  of  which  were 
of  course  self-sown.  , 

While  the  yield  of  wheat  is  perhaps  no  greater  than 
that  of  the  Genesee  valley,  or  the  rich  prairies  of  Indiana 
or  southwestern  Michigan,  the  crop  is  fnr  more  sure,  from 
the  absence  of  insects,  rust,  winter-killing,  etc.  Perhaps 
not  more  than  twice  since  the  ''ettlement  of  the  W  allamet 
Valley  has  the  wheat  crop  been  injured  by  rain  in  harvest 
time.  As  a  genernl  thing  the  straw  is  short  and  stout,  and 
^  the  grain  is  never  laid  down  by  summer  tempests  of  wind 
and  rain. 

Peas  sown  broadcast,  with  or  without  oats,  bring  a  pro- 


SOIL,    CLIMATE,    RESOURCES. 


527 


•iiatcly  delightful. 
3  mild  and  agroea- 
in  the  afternoons 
ailing  again  to  an 
yultriness  is  almost 
■on.  The  greatest 
g  effect  which  the 
5.  It  is  frequently 
'  cattle  can  endure 
1  of  summer  with- 
■  would  have  done 
rough  t. 

lasons,  and  chmate 
uy  for  the  farmer 
adapted  to  it,  and 
he  may  have  been 

can  undoubtedly 
ut  a  careful  obser- 

judicious  experi- 
he  newer  settlers 
brmerly  practiced 

was  made  to  an- 

er  of  which  were 

no  greater  than 
)rairies  of  Indiana 
ir  more  sure,  from 
ng,  etc.  Perhaps 
t  of  the  "W  allamet 
by  rain  in  harvest 
ort  and  stout,  and 
tempests  of  wind 


(I'.ict  about  equal  to  wheat;  and  are  the  best  crop  for  fat- 
•,  iiiuf  hogs,  rcquiri;ig  little  labor,  and  producing  a  fine 
(Hiality  of  pork  by  turning  the  hogs  into  the  field  in  the 
fall  and  letting  t^era  fatten  there.  Bacon  brings  a  high 
price  in  the  mines,  and  is  one  of  the  most  valuable  posses- 
sions of  the  farmer.  The  rapid  increase  of  sheep  in  Ore- 
iron  gives  the  sheep-raiser  a  large  surplus  every  year 
above  what  he  can  afford  to  keep  for  their  wool,  and  of 
this  surplus  quite  a  number  every  year  may  be  sold  for 
mutton  at  home,  or  driven  to  the  mines,  where  they  com- 
mand a  good  price. 

The  whole  country  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  is  fa- 
vorably adapted  to  fruit-growing,  and  no  portion  of  it 
more  so  than  Western  Oregon.  Trees  of  three  years' 
srrowth  bend  to  the  earth  under  their  burdens  of  fruit. 
Before  the  tree  matures  its  strength  it  bears  at  a  rate  so 
wonderful  that  without  artificial  support  the  branches  split 
away  from  the  main  tree.  Apple  trees  less  than  two 
Inches  in  diameter,  with  branches  no  mor#  than  three- 
quarters  of  an  inch  in  thickness  are  so  crowded  with  ap- 
ples as  to  leave  very  little  of  the  stock  visible.  We  have 
counted  forty  large  apples  on  a  limb  of  the  thickness 
mentioned  above,  and  no  more  than  four  feet  and  a  half 
long, — a  mere  rod.  Plum  and  pear  trees  bear  in  the  san.o 
manner.  Cherries  are  equally  prolific,  but  peaches  sel- 
dom crowd  the  tree  in  Western  Oregon,  though  they  do 
in  Eastern  Oregon.  Probably  the  best  treatraent  to  give 
young  fruit  trees  in  Oregon  would  be  to  pull  off  the  great- 
er portion  of  the  fruit  for  the  first  year  or  two  in  order 
that  the  trees  might  mature  their  strength.  No  d(^ubt  it 
would  also  add  to  the  flavor  of  the  fruit,  though  that 
seems  to  be  alwaya  excellent. 


oats,  bring  a  pro- 


"  Wild  iH'iries  are  very  abundant,  some  of  tvIuc4  arc  |K*ouliarI}   delicious. 
Till'  bcn-ius  are  strawburriotf,  di'wberrios,  whortMbttma,  stUlulberries,  block  aud 


528 


WESTERN    OREGON. 


I 


yellow  raspberries,  gooseberries,  juneberrios,  and  cranbemes.     The  cranlxTrii 
are  good,  but  found  in  abundance  only  in  the  vicinity  ol'tlie  ocean ;  tlie  june  stl 
mon,  and  gooseberries  are  not  particularly  desirable ;  the  dew,  sallal,  and  ra<' 
berries  are  choice,  and  ((uite  abinidant ;  and  the  straw  and   whortleberries  an 
c^^'•('lp■.•]y  abundant  and  delicious.     The  ))rairies  may  be  truly  said  to  be  lite 
ally  red  with  strawberries,  and  the  timbered  openings  blue  with  whortloberrii 
in  their  season.     The  season  of  ri[)e  strawbtirries  is  froni   three  to  six  wwk 
and  that  of  whortleberries  irom  six  to  ten   weeks.     The  whortleberry  busli, 
except  in  the  mountains,  like  the  Unipqua  plnm  shrub,  is  >/orne  prostrate  nm 
the  earth's  grassy  covering,  from  the  weight  of  its  delicious  fruit.    The  wil 
strawberry  of  Oregon  is  larger  and  better  than  any  we  have  ever  seen,  cxcoiii 
the  largest  of  the  large  garden  cultivated   E  iglish  strawberry,     nie  whortlt- 
berry  has  more  acidity  than  those  of  unshaded  growth,  growing  east  of  tk 
mountains.     English  gooseberries  and  currants  are  cultivated  here  with  suc- 
cess." 

The  native  grasses  of  Western  Oregon  are  blue-gra:5,s, 
and  red  and  white  clover.  The  grass  formerly  grew  very 
tall  on  the  prairies  but  has  been  so  much  eaten  off  and 
trampled  out  by  numerous  herds  of  cattle,  that  it  is  now 
much  shorter.  When  sown  in  favorable  situations,  time 
thy  will  grow  to  a  height  of  between  five  and  six  feet. 

The  timbtir  of  Western  Oregon  consists  of  pine,  fir, 
cedar,  oak,  spruce,  hemlock,  cotton-wood,  cherry,  and 
maple.  Probably  there  is  no  country  in  the  world  where 
timber  grows  so  strikingly  straight  and  beautiful,  and  to 
such  gigantic  altitude  and  dimensions  as  in  Oregon.  Two 
hundred  feet  is  but  a  moderate  height  for  the  growth  of 
firs,  cedars,  and  spruce,  and  they  frequently  attain  a  mucl 
greater  altitude.  We  have  seen  elder  growing  in  Oregon 
three  feet  in  circumference,  and  hazel  thirty  inches  in  cir- 
cumference, and  of  the  height  of  forty  feet.  Black  alder 
and  a  species  of  laurel  grow  to  what  would  be  termed,  in 
most  countries,  large  trees — logs  of  alder  have  been  ob 
tained  thirty-two  inches  in  diameter,  and  of  the  laurel 
four  feet  in  dinmeter.  In  Western  Oregon  groves  of  tini 
ber  are  found  skirting  and  separating  prairies ;  but  the 
immense  timber  districts  are  mainly  confined  to  the  neigh- 


BOIL,    CLIMATE,    RESOURCES. 


529 


borliood  of  the  const  of  the  Pacific,  to  the  Coast,  Cascade 
niid  Blue  ranges  of  mountains,  and  the  immediate  vicinity 
of  the  rivers. 

The  fir  is  seen  almost  solely  on  the  western  slope  of  the 
Cascade  Mountains,  along  the  Columbia  River  from  where 
it  breaks  through  that  range  until  it  passes  through  the 
coast  range,  on  the  eastern  slope  of  the  Coast  Mountains, 
and  along  the  rivers  and  upon  the  mountains  almost  any 
where  between  the  summits  of  these  two  principal  ranges. 
It  is  everywhere  slightly  mixed  with  spruce,  hemlock, 
cedar,  and  yew.  The  pine  is  generally  found  in  ridges  or 
patches  by  itself,  except  on  the  west  side  of  the  Coast 
range  where  it  grows  with  hemlock,  spruce,  and  cedar. 
WiHow  grows  along  all  tht  st-f^ams,  and  acquires  consid- 
erable size.  Ash,  oak,  maple,  cotton-wood,  and  alder  also 
grow  wherever  the  ground  is  low  and  moist. 

The  shrubbery  of  Oregon  is  very  beautiful  and  in  great 
variety.     There  are  several  varieties  of   alder,  bearing, 
sever       ,  light  purple,  scarlet  and  orange  colored  berries. 
The     ,  Id  cherry  is  a  light  and  graceful  tree,  having  a 
small,   clear  scarlet  fruit,  that  is  very  beautiful,  and  ex- 
ceedingly bitter.    The  tree-whortlebv^rry  has  a  very  dimin- 
utive leaf,  almost  round,  and  a  small  crimson  berry  tasting 
much  like  a  barberry.     There  are  two  smaller  whortle- 
berry shrubs  corresponding  to  those  of  the  Atlantic  States, 
called  swamp  and  mountain  whortleberries.     There  are 
several  varieties  of  wild  cun-ants,  one  of  which  is  useless 
as  a  fruit,    but   is   most  beautiful  as  a  flowering  shrub. 
White  spir3a,  and  golden  honeysuckle  thrust  their  white 
or  golden  blossoms  through  every  thicket,   and  with  the 
white  syringa  and  wild  rose,  festoon  the  rivtr  banks  and 
hill  sides  until   they  seem  one  bed  of  bloom.     The  hand- 
some shrubbery,  and  the  abundant  wild  flowers  of  Oregon, 
atone  greatly  for  the  want  of  greater  variety  in  the  forest 


m 


530 


WESTERN    OREGON. 


tints  ;  and  the  case  with  which  flowers  may  be  cuUivated 
for  the  adornment  of  homes  is  one  of  the  greatest  recom- 
mciuhitions  of  the  climate.  Nature  has  been  lavish,  though 
man  may  be  indilferent.  If  ever  a  wilderness  might  be 
made  to  blossom  as  the  rose,  that  wilderness  is  Oregon. 
Few  of  the  old  settlers  of  Oregon  have  cared,  however, 
to  take  advantage  of  the  facilities  allbrded  them  for  beau- 
tifying tlieir  homesteads,  and  it  is  more  common  to  find  a 
house  without  garden  or  shrubbery  than  with  either;  a 
peculiarity  as  strange  as  it  is  inexcusable. 

Though  Western  Oregon  is  especially  adapted  to  agri- 
cultural and  pastoral  pursuits,  the  present  indications  of 
mineral  wealth  make  it  almost  certain  that  the  miner's 
pick,  as  well  as  the  farmer's  plow,  must  furrow  the  face  of 
mother  Earth,  west  of  the  Cascade  Mountains.  This  dis- 
covery was  not  sought  after  by  the  people  of  Oregon,  who 
were  firmly  fixed  in  their  belief  that  it  was  as  an  agricul- 
tural and  manufacturing  State  that  they  were  to  achieve 
their  highest  destiny.  But  when  gold  and  silver,  iron, 
coal,  and  copper,  are  knocking  for  admittance  as  State  re- 
sources, they  cannot  and  will  not  be  denied.  They  will 
be  accepted  as  aids  to  manufactures  and  commerce ;  and 
will  be  taken  in  connection  with  forests  of  splendid  tim- 
ber and  rivers  of  unfailing  water-power,  as  the  means  by 
which  Oregon  is  to  acquire  her  future  status  as  one  of  the 
most  importan    States  of  the  ^^nion. 

Since  the  yl  )eated  tests  by  which  the  Santiam  gold- 
bearing  quartz  has  been  found  to  yield  $160  to  the  ton, 
other  discoveries  have  been  nnide,  and  will  continue  to  be 
made  in  the  Cascade  Mountains.  Already  the  mining 
town  of  Quartzville  has  started  up  in  the  Santiam  district, 
and  another  town  called  Copperopolis,  about  .ten  miles  to 
the  southeast  has  sprung  into  existence  near  the  copper 
mines.     Discoveries  of  gold  have  recently  been  made  in 


.1 


:-^..t» 


BOIL,    CLIMATE,    lUIHOUUt'ES, 


r)3i 


Clackamas  County;  but  as  no  actual  tost  has  yet  boon 
miide  of  the  (quality  of  tho  ores,  wo  cannot  spoak  of  their 
value. 

It  is  sufficient  to  say  that  enough  is  known  of  the  min- 
eral resources  of  Western  Oregon  to  warrant  the  invest- 
nu'iit  of  large  amounts  of  capital ;  and  that  discoveries 
have  only  just  begun  to  be  made. 

As  to  the  price  of  farming  lands  in  the  Wallamot  valley, 
they  vary  from  three  to  fifteen  dollars,  including  imi)rove- 
iiiciits.  Many  excellent  farms  may  be  had  at  from  three 
to  five  dollars  per  acre ;  the  owners  selling  out  in  order 
♦to  remove  with  their  children  into  towns,  where  they  can 
bo  educated.  These  lauds  in  a  few  years  will  be  worth 
fifty  dollars  per  acre,  and  we  trust  it  will  not  be  long  be- 
fore the  population  will  be  sufficiently  dense  to  insure 
good  schools  throughout  the  State.  The  Oregon  Central 
Railroad,  now  in  course  of  construction,  will  do  much  to 
bring  out  the  resources  of  the  interior,  and  the  time  is  not 
fli'itaut  when  lands  in  Western  Oregon  will  bring  a  high 
price. 

Sheep-raising  and  Manufacture  of  'Woolen  Goods.  Wm. 
Lair  Hill,  in  his  prize  essay,  read  before  the  Oregon  State 
Fair,  for  1862,  says: — 

A.       " 

"  If  Orof;on  has  a  specialty,  it  is  her  pre-eminence  as  a  wool-f!;rowing  coun- 
trj-.  Until  recently,  very  little  attention  has  been  paid  to  the  matter  of  sheep- 
raising ;  but  it  has  now  become  one  of  the  staple  interests  of  the  State.  Sheep 
tlirive  better  here  than  in  any  other  State.  Disease  amongst  them  is  exceed- 
inirly  rare,  lliey  increase  here  faster  than  in  the  east,  and  the  wool  is  of  ex- 
cellent quality." 

Tn  a  similar  essay,  read  before  the  Oregon  State  Fair 
lor  1863,  by  John  Minto,  Esq.,  the  following  passages  oc- 
cur:—  • 

"  For  the  health  of  sheep,  dry  upland  pasture  is  necessary.     Taking  the  whole 
of  Oregon  into  view,  nine-tenths  of  the  State  may  be  pronounced  of  that  char- 


WESTERN   OUEGON. 


I: 


t 

M 


■  r 


actor.  For  xhv.  focdinf;  nf  sheep  for  wool-riiisin^  piirpows,  short  swoet  grasw 5 
and  open  wiKxlhind  pii.Hturcs  are  deeiiieil  best ;  and  lull  ihree-loiirths  of'tlicfuir. 
liicc  of  the  iStiile  is  eoniposeil  of  hills  and  plains  jielilinjj;  sneh  gnisat's-  anil  a 
hirire  portion  of  it  is  open  woodland.  Tor  tlie  j;rowth  of  a  long,  even,  stroiw 
ami  Hi'xilile  staple  of  wool,  a  mild,  even  eliniate  (with  proper  feeding)  is  con. 
Bidered  l)csf,  and  tliat  ()re<;(jn  possesses  in  a  remarkable  degree.  In  fact,  the 
climate  and  natural  grasses  of  Oregon  seem  to  be  a  natural  coniljination  of  the 
peeuliarities  of  England  anil  Spain,  in  those  partieulars,  I'speeially  the  climate 

"  Over  twenty  years  ago,  Mr.  l'»uile,  a  natm-alist  who  aecompaniid  Connnwlorc 
Wilkes'  expedition  to  this  eoast  gave  it  as  liis  opinion  that  'the  country  miwW 
lMM;ome  famous  for  its  jjrodueticjn  of  fine  wool,'  tor  the  reason  that '  the  evcnniss 
of  the  climate  enables  tho  fur-bearing  animals  found  here  to  carry  their  fmi! 
cov(!ring  during  the  summer  months,  whereas  nmler  greater  variations  between 
the  seasons,  the  same  animals  usually  shed  their  furs,  or  they  become  mixed 
with  hair  during  stnumiir;'  aiul  for  the  fin'ther  reason  that  the  'j)hysical  gcoiTa- 
pliy  and  natural  grasses  of  tho  country  nuike  it  a  natural  sheep  pasture.'        f 

"Experience  goes  far  to  show  Mr.  Peale's  opinion  correct.  In  a  convem- 
tion  betwetai  the  writer  and  Mr.  Henry  I'erkins,  Chief  Wool  Stapler  in  the 
woolen  factory  at  Sali'm,  (a  gentleman  who  has  IukI  a  large  and  varied  experi- 
ence in  assorting  wool,)  the  latter  said  that  he  had  never  handled  tlie  wool  from 
any  country,  which  as  a  whole,  was  equal  to  that  of  Oregon  as  a  combing  wool; 
and  that  during  a  term  of  three  years  as  wool  stapler  in  a  De  Laine  factory  in 
Boston,  Ma.-s.,  he  deemed  that  he  did  well  when  he  could  get  from  the  bulk  as- 
sorted 30  per  cent,  of  wool  fit  for  combing  and  manufacturing  into  that  fahric, 
Of  the  wool  he  was  then  receiving — the  crop  of  1863,  as  it  came  in  indis- 
criminately— Mr.  P.  said  he  could  get  from  TjO  to  60  per  cent,  of  good  combing 
•wool.  lie  further  said  if  wools  were  projjcrly  assorted  here  and  the  combinj 
portion  graded  and  baled  and  marked  according  to  its  quality,  and  shipped  to 
New  Yor!f  or  Boston,  it  would  soon  draw  the  attention  of  De  Laine  manufac- 
turers to  this  country  as  a  source  of  sui)i)ly  for  this  most  valuable  kind  of  wool, 
We  have  further  practical  proof  of  the  superiority  of  Oregon  wool,  in  tlie  fact 
that  San  Francisco  papers  as  late  as  July  last,  quoted  Oregon  wool  as  selling 
three  cents  per  pound  above  California  wool  sold  on  the  same  day. 

"  The  fact  of  the  superiority  of  Oregon  wool  is  an  encouraging  circumstance 
to  those  engaged,  or  about  to  engage  in  raising  it.  But  they  will  never  reap 
tlio  full  benefit  of  it  so  long  as  they  allow  the  business  men  of  California  to  put 
their  crops  into  market :  so  long  as  this  is  the  case,  the  fact  will  be  used  to 
spread  the  fame  of  California,  as  a  wool-producing  country,  and  so  long  ivili 
Oregon  dwell  in  the  shadow  of  Calitbrnia,  and  feel  the  blighting  influence. 
This  is  the  inevitable  result,  even  without  any  effort  on  the  part  of  California 
merchants.  It  gees  from  their  port  in  their  shipping  mart ;  the  buyer  cares 
no  more  but  to  know  that  he  is  receiving  a  good  article  for  his  money,  and 
it  would  be  too  much  to  expect  the  California  merchant  to  inform  his  customer 
that  it  was  tlie  product  of  another  state.     *     *     * 

"  Tho  success  of  the  woolen  manufactory  at  Salem,  started  under  more  ad- 
Terse  circumstances  than,  it  is  believed,  will  ever  again  exist  on  this  coast,  g 


NATl'IlAL    WKALTII    AND    UKSOCHCKS. 


C)Xi 


,|,,iw  ]il.ii'ily  tliat  ii  Dc  I.niiii'  factory  would  be  I'liiiiK-iilly  sucffHsfiil  licro  wluTO 
■uili  j;( Kills  iiri!  worn  (liroujiho.it  tin-  yi-ar.* 

"Anil  lli'Tii  is  no  doubt  tliiit  ihcrt!  is  iiiuny  n  farmer  in  tlu'  Miildlc  and  WuHt- 
,111  Stalls,  who,  worn  down  by  tlif  di'liilitatin},'  inlliu-ncci  of  niiasnialii'  rliniati't*, 
Koiijil  <;<■(  a  ni-w  K-asu  of  litii  by  »lianj,'inj,'  liis  liH'ation  and  bi-coniin;;  a  »\ivv\)- 
nwr  under  tlie  clear  (tkies  and  pure  air  of  Kast^'rn  Orejion.     •     •     »     •     • 

•Tlitrt'  are  at  presmt  more  prondsinj;  indnci'nicnl.s  for  the  ()rtp)n  farmer  to 
mill  his  attention  to  the  raisiii};  of  sheep  and  wool  (where   liis   lands  are  of  ii 
;iiii;il)le  kind,)  than  any  other  branch  of  farminjj;,  tor  tlie  reasonM :  Ist.     That 
ill  that  (Hiui»ation  the  farmer  can  {^et  alon^  with  lesH  hired  hel|>,  which  is  al- 
ways hard  to  j?et  of  a  relialile  kind,  and  will  continue  to  be,  so  Ion;;  as  the  dis- 
covery of  Mi^w  gold  miiu's  continues.     2d.   Sheej)  eat  nearer  to  the  ground  and 
a  jircater  variety  of  plants,  and  consocpiently  retpiire  less  labor  in  providing 
llicm  food  than  any  oilier  domestic  animal  which  yields  anylhini;  like  the  ro- 
lurii  wliicli  they  yield.     3d.  There  are  two  products  li-om  nhetp,  tor  either  of 
which  there  is  a  greater  prospective  market  than  lor  any  other  farm  product 
we  can  raise.     AVe  liave  already  glanced  at  tlie  condition  of  the  marki't  with  re- 
(;aril  to  wool.     '  It  is  the  only  thing  raised  by  the  farmers  of  Oregon  that  con- 
tains enough  valuer  in  proportion  to  its  weight  to  bear  the  expense  of  transjior- 
taiiou  to  the  Atlantic   States.     It  is  the  only  product  that  cannot  be  raised 
ilicaper  in  the  Atlantic  States  than  here.     It  is  the  only  product  of  the  soil  of 
()iv;j;()n  (gold  excepted)  which  we  can  send  to  the  Kastern  seaboard  in  ex- 
change for  the  clothing,  boots  and  shoes,  machinery,  iron,  etc.,  etc.,  which  we 
must  buy  there  or  elsewhere  until  we  can  build  up  manufiictures  of  our  own.' 
Ami  manufactures  we  nnist  have,  unless  we  can  contentedly  remain  utterly  de- 
poniient  uf»on  the  manufacturing  skill  of  other  communities,  subject  to  the  in- 
conveniences of  interruption  in  time  of  war,  and  the  always  increasing  cost  of 
transportation,  which,  as  the  producers  of  the  raw  material  and  cousinners  of  the 
manufactured  article,  we  must  p.ay  all  the  cost  of,  according  to  the  amount  of 
our  consum])ti()n.     The  market  for  good  wool-bearing  stock  sheep  is  only  to  be 
incasiurd  by  the  extent  of  the  country  yet  unoccupied  and  fit  for  grazing  pur- 
jioscs  lying  between  the  Pacific  Ocean  and  the  western  base  of  the  llociky 
Jhtuntiiins.     The  market  for  mutton  will  be  in  accordance  with  the  increase  of 
1  ;  "lation;  it  car.  be  produced  cheaper  and  will  always  sell  higher  than  beef 
until  tiic  country  is  glutted  with  wool-bearing  flocks. 

'•Ore;v)n  lies  on  tlie  western  edge  of  an  immense  extent  of  country — reach- 
ir '  iVoin  Mexico  to  the  British  line ;  from  Kansas  to  the  Pacific  Ocean — which, 
witli  he  exception  of  the  belt  between  the  Cascade  Mountains  and  the  ocean, 
iDverod  Ijy  parts  of  California,  Oregon,  and  Washington  Territory,  is  fitted  lor 
j)a>toral  pursuits  only.  She  has  within  her  own  borders  a  large  portion  of  tho 
hc'st  of  that  natural  pasture.  Within  that,  and  almost  surroimded  by  it,  slio 
lias  the  largest  compact  body  of  good  wheat  land  on  the  Pacific  slope ;  which, 


*  Since  the  above  was  written  a  large  factory  at  Oregon  City  has  commenced 
manufacturing  de  laines,  and  several  kinds  of  cloths.      ■•  -        ^ 


IHTUllBANCEa — TilK    AGKNT    MUIIDKIIKIX 

portunity  ;-ou^ht,  and  not    an    altoi 
liem,    by  the   politicians  of  that  Tci 
'as  simply  this.   A  party  of  lawless  wi 
I  Country,  passing  over  tho  Cascade 
fakirna  Valley,  on  their  way  to  the 
3,  found  sonic  Yakima  women  di<j^gin<j 
30,  and  abused  them.     The  women 
id  told  the  chiefs  of  the  outrage  ;  and  ii 
lilty  whites  and  killed  several  of  the 


le  Indian  sub-agent  for  Washingtoi 
village,  and  instead  of  judging  of  th 
de  use  of  threats  in  the  name  of  the  I 
[lent,  saying  that  an  army  should  be 
Ir  killing  his  people.     On  his  return 
lollowed  and  murdered.     '■'" 
lof  an  Indian  agent  was  an  act  which 
vcd.     Very  properly,  the  case  shouk 
ice  of  in  a  manner  to  convince  the  I 
ist  be  punished.     But,  tempted  by 
ain,  and  encouraged  by  the  somewh^ 
f  the  white  population  of  Washingt( 
nor  G.   L.  Curry,  of  the  latter,  at  on( 
d  issued  a  call  for  volunteers,  withou 
ction  or  assistance  of  the  general  G 
Dment  this  was  done,  it  was  too  late 
ls  if  a  torch  had  been  applied  to  a  fi 
simultaneously  did  the  Indians  from 
)cky  Mountains,  and  from  the  Rocky 
thern  boundary  of  Oregon  send  for 
t  there  was  much  justification  for  the 
the  people,  that  a  combination  amo 
en  secretly  agreed  to,  and  that  the 
sxterminated. 


^>. 


^^^K. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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u9 


1.0 


I.I 


bilZB     |2.5 

ISO    •^~       ■■■ 

1^    112.2 


zo 
1.8 


1.25  i  1.4    i  1.6 


^^ 


<^ 


'4 


//, 


/, 


oi 


/A 


PhotDgraphic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


73  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER, NY.  M580 

(716)  872-4503 


»• 


A 


^ 


^ 


\\ 


i^ 


444 


MEEK    ASTONISHES   THE   NATIVES. 


After  a  pause  in  which  the  old  gentleman  seemed  to  be 
recovering  from  some  great  surprise,  he  requested  to  see 
the  credentials  of  this  extraordinary  envoy.  Still  more 
surprised  ho  seemed  on  discovering  for  himself  that  the 
personage  before  him  was  really  a  messenger  from  Orejron 
to  the  government  of  the  United  States.  But  the  eftect 
was  magical.  In  a  moment  the  bell- rope  was  pulled,  and 
in  an  incredibly  short  space  of  time  a  coach  stood  at  the 
door  ready  to  convey  the  waiting  messenger  on  his  way 
to  Washington.  ■      i  7'     .'jjiti  r- 

In  the  meantime  in  a  conversation  with  the  stage  agent, 
Meek  had  explained  more  fully  the  circumstances  of  his 
mission,  and  the  agent  had  become  much  interested.  On 
parting,  Meek  received  a  ticket  to  the  Ilelay  House,  with 
many  expressions  of  regret  from  the  agent  that  he  could 
ticket  him  no  farther. 

"  But  it  is  all  the  same,"  said  he  ;  "  you  are  sure  to  go 
through." 

"  Or  run  a  train  oiF  the  track,"  rejoined  Meek,  as  he 
was  bowed  out  of  the  office. 

It  happened  that  there  were  some   other  passengers 
waiting  to  take  the  first  stage,  and  they  crowded  into  this 
one,  glad  of  the  unexpected  opportunity,  but  wondering 
at  the  queer  looking  passenger  to  v/hom  the  agent  was  so 
polite.     This  scarcely  concealed  curiosity  was  all  that  was 
needed  to  stimulate  the  mad-cap  spirits  of  our  so  far  "con- 
quering hero."     Putting  his  head  out  of  the  window  just 
at   the   moment   of   starting,    he    electrified    everybody, 
horses  included,  by  the  utterance  of  a  war-whoop  and  yell 
that  would  have  done  credit  to  a  wild  Camanche.     Satis 
fied  with  the  speed  to  which  this  demoniac  noise  had  ex- 
cited the  driver's  prancing  steeds,   he  quietly   ensconced 
himself  in  his  corner  of  the  coach  and  waited  for  his  fel- 
low passengers  to  recover  from  their  stunned  sensations. 


THE    VICTEilZED    CONDUCTOR. 


445. 


When  their  complete  recovery  had  been  eircctcd,  tliere 
followed  the  usual  questioning  and  explanations,  which 
ended  in  the  inevitable  lionizing  that  was  so  much  to  the 
i;i4e  of  this  sensational  individual. 

Oil  the  cars  at  Cumberland,  and  at  the  eating-houses, 
the  messenger  from  Oregon  kept  up  his  sensational  char- 
acter, indulging  in  alternate  fits  of  mountain  manners,  and 
airiiin  assuming  a  disproportionate  amount  of  grandeur ; 
but  in  either  view  proving  himself  very  amusing.  By  the 
time  the  train  reached  the  Relay  House,  many  of  the  pas- 
sengers had  become  acquainted  with  Meek,  and  were  pre- 
pared to  understand  and  enjoy  each  new  phase  of  his 
many-sided  comicality.      •     ■      '  •     •.  .  . 

The  ticket  with  which  the  stage  agent  presented  him, 
(lead-headed  him  only  to  this  point.  Here  again  he  must 
make  his  poverty  a  jest,  and  joke  himself  through  to 
I'usliiiigton.  Accordingly  when  the  conductor  came 
tluough  the  car  in  which  he,  with  several  of  his  new 
aci[uaintances  were  sitting,  demanding  tickets,  he  was 
obliged  to  tap  his  blanketed  passenger  on  the  shoulder 
to  attract  his  attention  to  the  "  ticket,  sir  !" 

'•//'(  Ico  any  me  ca^  hanch  ^^^  said  Meek,  starting  up 
and  addressing  him  in  the  Snake  tongue. 

"Ticket,  sir!"  repeated  the  conductor,  staring. 

"  Ka  hum  pa,  hatich  f  returned  Meek,  assuming  a  look 
which  indicated  that  English  was  as  puzzling  to  him,  as 
Snake  to  other  people. 

Finding  that  his  time  would  be  wasted  on  this  singular 
passenger,  the  conductor  went  on  through  the  train ;  re- 
tinning  after  a  time  with  a  fresh  demand  for  his  ticket. 
But  Meek  sustained  his  character  admirably,  and  it  was 
only  through  the  excessive  amusement  of  the  passengers 
that  the  conductor  suspected  that  he  was  being  made  the 
'Hibject  of  a  practical  joke.     At  this  stage  of  affairs  it  was 


W. 


44G 


ARRIVAL   AT    WASHINGTON 


privately  explained  to  him  who  and  what  his  waggish  cus- 
tomer was,  and  tickets  were  no  more  mentioned  durini; 
the  journey. 

On  the  arrival  of  the  train  at  Washington,  the  heart  of 
our  hero  became  for  a  brief  moment  of  time  "  very  httle,' 
He  felt  that  the  importance  of  his  mission  demanded  some 
dignity  of  appearance — some  conformity  to  establislied 
rules  and  precedents.  But  of  the  latter  he  knew  abso- 
lutely nothing ;  and  concerning  the  former,  he  realized 
the  absurdity  of  a  dignitary  clothed  in  blankets  and  a 
wolf-skin  cap.  '  Joe  Meek  I  must  remain,'  said  he  to  him- 
self, as  he  stepped  out  of  the  train,  and  glanced  along  the 
platform  at  the  crowd  of  porters  with  the  names  of  their 
hotels  on  their  hat-bands.  Learning  from  inquiry  that 
Coleman's  was  the  most  fashionable  place,  he  decided  that 
to  Coleman's  he  would  go,  judging  correctly  that  it  was 
best  to  show  no  littleness  of  heart  even  in  the  matter  af 
hotels. 


1 


THE   DINNER  AT   COLEMAN's. 


447 


CHAPTER    XXXIX. 


in 


1848.  When  Meek  arrived  at  Coleman's  it  was  the 
dinner  hour,  and  following  the  crowd  to  the  dining  saloon, 
he  took  the  first  seat  he  came  to,  not  without  being  very- 
much  stared  at.  He  had  taken  his  cue  and  the  staring 
was  not  unexpected,  consequently  not  so  embarrassing  as 
it  might  otherwise  have  been.  A  bill  of  fare  was  laid  be- 
side his  plate.  Turning  to  the  colored  waiter  who  placed 
it  there,  he  startled  him  first  by  inquiring  in  a  low  growl- 
ing voice —  ,.,  -^  ,i  .^>.-^l. 
"  What's  that  boy  ?"  »  :..:v. 
"Bill  of  fare,  sah,"  replied  the  "boy,"  who  recognized 
the  Southerner  in  the  use  of  that  one  word, 

"Read!"  growled  Meek  again.     "The  people  in  my 
country  can't  read." 

Though  taken  by  surprise,  the  waiter,  politely  obedient, 
proceeded  to  enumerate  the  courses  on  the  bill  of  fare. 

When  he  came  to  game 

"Stop  thar,  boy!"  commanded  Meek,   "what  kind  of 
game  ?" 
"Small  game,  sah." 

"  Fetch  me  a  piece  of  antelope,"  leaning  back  in  his 

chair  with  a  look  of  satisfaction  on  his  face. 

"  Got  none  of  that  sah ;  don't  know  what  that  ar'  sah." 

"Don't  know!"  with  a  look  of  pretended  surprise.    "In 

ray  country  antelope  and  deer  ar'  small  game ;  bear  and 

bulTalo  ar'  large  game.     I  reckon  if  you  haven't  got  one, 

20 


418 


THE   MESSENGER    CREATES   A   SEXSATION. 


i      1 


you  liavn't  got  the  other,  either.     In  that  case  you  may 
fetch  me  some  beef." 

The  waiter  disappeared  grinning,  and  soon  returned  with 
the  customary  thin  and  small  cdt,  which  Meek  eyed  at  first 
contemptuously,  and  then  accepting  it  ii)  the  light  of  a 
sample  swallowed  it  at  two  mouthfuls,  returning  his  plate 
to  the  waiter  with  an  approving  smile,  and  saying  loud 
enough  to  be  overheard  by  a  score  of  people 

"  Boy,  that  will  do.  Fetch  me  about  four  pounds  of  the 
same  kind."  .    . 

By  this  time  the  blanketed  beef-eater  was  the  recipient 
of  general  attention,  and  the  "boy"  who  served  him  com- 
prehending with  that  quickness  which  distinguishes  ser- 
vants, that  he  had  no  ordinary  backwoodsman  to  deal  with, 
was  all  the  time  on  the  aJert  to  make  himself  useful.  Peo- 
ple stared,  then  smiled,  then  asked  each  other  "  who  is  it?" 
loud  enough  for  the  stranger  to  hear.  Meek  looked  nei- 
ther to  the  right  nor  to  the  left,  pretending  not  to  hear 
the  whispering.  When  he  had  finished  his  beef,  he  again 
addressed  himself  to  the  attentive  "  boy." 

"  That's  better  meat  than  the  old  mule  I  eat  in  the  moun- 
tains." 

Upon  this  remark  the  whispering  became  more  general, 
and  louder,  and  smiles  more  frequent. 

"  What  have  you  got  to  drink,  boy?"  continued  Meek, 
still  unconscious.  "  Isn't  there  a  sort  of  wine  called— 
some  kind  of  pain  ?" 

"  Champagne,  sah  ?" 

"  That's  the  stuff,  I  reckon ;  bring  me  some." 

While  Meek  drank  his  champagne,  with  an  occasional 
aside  to  his  faithful  attendant,  people  laughed  and  won- 
dered "  who  the  devil  it  was."  At  length,  having  finished 
his  wine,  and  overhearing  many  open  inquiries  as  to  his 
identity,  the  hero  of  many  bear-fights  slowly  arose,  and 


RECOGXIZKI)    HV    SKNATOIl    UXDKRWOOD. 


449 


case  you  may 


eat  in  the  moun- 


addressing   the   company  through  the   beforc-incntioiicd 
"boy,"  said: 

"  You  want  to  know  who  I  am  ?" 

"If  you  please,  sah ;  yes,  if  you  please,  sah,  for  the 
siike  of  these  gentlemen  present,"  replied  the  "  boy,"  an- 
swering for  the  company. 

"Wall  then,"  proclaimed  Meek  with  a  grandiloquent 
air  quite  at  variance  with  his  blanket  coat  and  unkempt 
hair,  yet  which  displayed  his  fine  person  to  advantage,  "I 
am  Envoy  Extraordinary  and  Minister  Plenipotentiary  from 
the  Republic  of  Oregon  to  the  Court  of  the  United 
States!" 

With  that  he  turned  and  strode  from  the  room.  He 
had  not  proceeded  far,  however,  before  he  was  overtaken 
by  a  party  of  gentlemen  in  pursuit.  Senator  Underwood 
of  Kentucky  immediately  introduced  himself,  calling  the 
envoy  by  name,  for  the  dispatch  from  St.  Louis  had  pre- 
pared the  President  and  the  Senate  for  Meek's  appearance 
in  Washington,  though  it  had  not  advised  them  of  his 
style  of  dress  and  address.  Other  gentlemen  were  intro- 
duced, and  questions  followed  questions  in  rapid  succes- 
sion. "''''"■  .■'' 

When  curiosity  was  somewhat  abated,  Meek  expressed 
a  wish  to  see  the  President  without  delay.  To  Under- 
wood's question  as  to  whether  he  did  not  wish  to  make  his 
toilet  before  visiting  the  White  House,  his  reply  was, 
"business  first,  and  toilet  afterwards." 

"But,"  said  Underwood,  "even  your  business  can  wait 
long  enough  for  that." 

"  No,  that's  your  mistake.  Senator,  and  Til  tell  you  why : 
I  can't  dress,  for  two  reasons,  both  good  ones.  I've  not 
got  a  cent  of  money,  nor  a  second  suit  of  clothes." 

The  generous  Kentuckian  offered  to  remove  the  first  of 


4 


m 


ifcf 


450 


VISIT   TO    THE    WHITE    HOUSE. 


:  *>'^. 


the  ()l)jcctions  on  the  spot,  but  Meek  declined.  "I'll  see 
the  President  first,  and  hear  what  he  has  to  say  about  my 
mission."  Then  calling  a  coach  from  the  stand,  he  spran;; 
into  it,  answering  the  driver's  question  of  where  he  would 
be  taken,  with  another  inquiry. 

"  Whar  should  a  man  of  my  style  want  to  go? — to  the 
White  House,  of  course!"  and  so  was  driven  away  amid 
the  general  laughter  of  the  gentlemen  in  the  portico  at 
Coleman's,  who  had  rather  doubted  his  intention  to  pay 
his  respects  to  the  President  in  his  dirty  blankets. 

He  was  admitted  to  the  Presidential  mansion  by  a  mu- 
latto of  about  his  own  age,  with  whom  he  remembered 
playing  w^hen  a  lad,  for  it  must  be  remembered  that  the 
Me(3ks  and  Polks  were  related,  and  this  servant  had  grown 
up  in  the  family.  On  inquiring  if  he  could  see  the  Presi- 
dent, he  was  directed  to  the  office  of  the  private  Secretary, 
Knox  Walker,  also  a  relative  of  Meek's  on  the  mother's 
side. 

On  entering  he  found  the  room  filled  with  gentlemen 
waiting  to  see  the  President,  each  when  his  turn  to  be  ad- 
mitted should  arrive.  The  Secretary  sat  reading  a  paper, 
over  the  top  of  which  he  glanced  but  once  at  the  new 
comer,  to  ask  him  to  be  seated.  But  Meek  was  not  in  the 
humor  for  sitting.  He  had  not  traveled  express  for  more 
than  two  months,  in  storm  and  cold,  on  foot  and  on  horse- 
back, by  day  and  by  night,  with  or  without  food,  as  it 
chanced,  to  sit  down  quietly  now  and  wait.  So  he  took  a 
few  turns  up  and  down  the  room,  and  seeing  that  the 
Secretary  glanced  at  him  a  little  curiously,  stopped  and 
Sjaid:  K  . 

k  "I  should  like  to  see  the  President  immediately.  Just 
tell  him  if  you  please  that  there  is  a  gentleman  from  Ore- 
gon waiting  to  see  him  on  very  important  business." 


^if^' 


^:0.'  .iJi.Lvj;  .>;uf  ilOJ, 


1 


INTEUVIEW    WITH    I'KE.SIDENT    I'OLK. 


451 


At  tlio  word  Orr.fjnn,  the  Secretary  s[)rinig  up,  diislicd 
his  paper  to  the  ground,  and  crying  out  "Uncle  Joe!" 
Clinic  forward  with  botli  liands  extended  to  greet  his  long 
lost  relative. 

"Take  care,  Knox!  don't  come  too  close,"  Raid  Meek 
stojjpiiig  back,  "I'm  ragged,  dirty,  and — lousy." 


But  Walker  seized  his  cousin's  hand,  without  seeming 
fear  of  the  consequences,  and  for  a  few  moments  there 
was  an  animated  exchange  of  questions  and  answers,  which 
Meek  at  last  interrupted  to  repeat  his  request  to  be  admit- 
ted to  the  President  without  delay.  Several  times  the  Sec- 
retary turned  to  leave  the  room,  but  as  often  came  back 
with  some  fresh  inquiry,  until  Meek  fairly  refused  to  say 
another  word,  until  he  had  delivered  his  dispatches. 

When  once  the  Secretary  got  away  he  soon  returned 
v.itli  a  request  from  the  President  for  the  appearance  of 
t!ie  Oregon  messenger,  all  other  visitors  being  dismissed 
for  that  day.     Polk's  reception  proved  as  cordial  as  Wtilk- 


ii-  r 


•'■is 


452     INTRODUCED    TO    THE    LADIES DADLY    FUIGIITENED. 


iff 

~ 

',  •'■ 

!  ™f.w 

rm 

1 

'm 

«f 

j. 

1 

M 

■P^'- 

. 

•PI 

«fP" 

^^W'''    ' 

■ 

:     ! 

i 

« 

er's  had  been.  He  seized  the  hand  of  Iiia  newly  found 
relative,  and  welcomed  him  in  his  own  name,  us  well  us 
that  of  messenger  from  the  distant,  much  loved,  and  loii" 
neglected  Oregon.  The  interview  lasted  for  a  couple  of 
hours.  Oregon  affairs  and  family  alfairs  were  talked  over 
together;  the  President  promising  to  do  all  for  Oregon 
that  he  could  do ;  at  the  same  time  he  bade  Meek  make 
himself  at  home  in  the  Presidential  mansion,  with  true 
southern  hospitality. 

But  Meek,  although  he  had  carried  off  his  poverty  and 
all  his  deficiencies  in  so  brave  a  style  hitherto,  felt  his  as- 
surance leaving  him,  when,  his  errand  2)erformed,  he  stood- 
in  the  presence  of  rank  and  elegance,  a  mere  mountain- 
man  in  ragged  blankets,  whose  only  wealth  consisted  of 
an  order  for  five  hundred  dollars  on  the  Methodist  mission 
in  New  York,  unavailable  for  present  emergencies.  And 
so  he  declined  the  hospitalities  of  the  White  House,  say 
ing  he  "could  make  himself  at  home  in  an  Indian  wigwam 
in  Oregon,  or  among  the  Rocky  Mountains,  but  in  the 
residence  of  the  chief  magistrate  of  a  great  nation,  he  felt 
out  of  place,  and  ill  at  ease."  '    r   , 

Polk,  however,  would  listen  to  no  refusal,  and  still  fur- 
ther abashed  his  Oregon  cousin  by  sending  for  Mrs.  Polk 
and  Mrs.  Walker,  to  make  his  acquaintance.     Says  Meek: 

"When  I  heard  the  silks  rustling  in  the  passage,  I  felt 

more  frightened  than  if  a  hundred  Elackfeet  had  whooped 

in  my  ear.     A  mist  came  over  my  eyes,  and  when  Mrs. 

i  Polk  spoke  to  me  I  couldn't  think  of  anything  to  say  in 

return." 
^*  But  the  ladies  were  so  kind  and  courteous  that  he  soon 
'  began  to  see  a  little,  though  not  quite  plainly  while  their 
visit  lasted.  Before  the  interview  with  the  President  and 
his  family  was  ended,  the  poverty  of  the  Oregon  envoy 
became  known,  which  led  to  the  immediate  supplying  of 


T     •      '^'T '(3 


UIGIITENED. 


THE   TWO   OREflON   REPRESENTATIVES. 


453 


ision,  with  true 


all  his  wants.  Major  Polk  was  called  in  ami  introduced ; 
ftiid  to  him  was  deputed  the  business  of  seeing  Meek 
"fot  up"  in  a  style  creditable  to  himself  and  his  relations. 
Meek  avers  that  when  he  had  gone  through  the  hands  of 
thol)arbcr  and  tailor,  and  surveyed  himself  in  a  full  length 
mirror,  he  was  at  first  rather  embarrassed,  Ix'ing  under  the 
impression  that  ho  was  being  introduced  to  a  fashionable 
and  decidedly  good-looking  gentleman,  before  whose  over. 
j)()\vcring  style  he  was  disposed  to  shrink,  with  the  old  fa- 
miliar feeling  of  being  in  blankets. 

But  Meek  was  not  the  sort  of  man  to  bo  long  in  getting 
used  to  a  situation  however  novel  or  difficult.  In  a  very 
short  time  he  was  au  fait  in  the  customs  of  the  capital. 
Ilis  perfect  frankness  led  people  to  laugh  at  his  errors  as 
eccentricities ;  his  good  looks  and  natural  honltomie  pro- 
cured him  plenty  of  admirers ;  while  his  position  at  the 
White  House  caused  him  to  be  envied  and  lionized  at 
once. 

On  the  day  following  his  arrival  the  President  sent  in  a 
message  to  Congress  accompanied  by  the  memorial  from 
the  Oregon  legislature  and  other  documents  appertaining 
to  the  Oregon  cause.  Meek  was  introduced  to  Benton, 
Oregon's  indefatigable  friend,  and  received  from  hira  the 
kindest  treatment ;  also  to  Dallas,  President  of  the  Senate ; 
Douglas,  Fremont,  Gen.  Houston,  and  all  the  men  who 
had  identified  themselves  with  the  interests  of  the  West. 

It  will  be  remembered  that  only  a  short  time  previous 
to  the  Waiilatpu  massacre  a  delegate  had  left  Oregon  for 
Washington,  by  ship  around  Cape  Horn,  who  had  been 
accredited  by  the  governor  of  the  colony  only,  and  that 
the  legislature  had  subsequently  passed  resolutions  expres- 
sive of  their  disapproval  of  "secret  factions,"  by  which 
was  meant  the  mission  party,  whose  delegate  Mr.  Thorn- 
ton was. 


I .  \ 


%.\ 


i 


454 


THE    OULUON    15ILL    IN    TIIK    SliNATB. 


} 

1 

V 

'  ;ia 

r-- 

'"'"■ 

i 

'^-.S 

It  so  hnpponod  that,  by  rcascni  of  the  commander  of  tlie 
Porfmaontli  having  assuinod  it  to  be  a  duty  to  cc)nvcy  Mr. 
Tlioriitou  IVoi)'  La  Paz,  where  through  the  iiifidehty  of  tlio 
Captain  of  the  Whiftou.,  he  was  stranded,  he  was  eimblud 
to  reaeli  the  States  early  in  the  Spring,  arriving  in  facta 
week  or  two  before  Meek  reached  Washington.  Thus 
Oregon  had  two  representatives,  althougli  not  entitled  to 
any :  nor  had  either  a  right  to  a  seat  in  either  House;  yd 
to  one  this  courtesy  was  granted,  while  the  two  togetlier 
controlled  more  powerful  influences  than  were  ever  before 
or  since  brought  to  bear  on  the  fate  of  any  single  terri- 
tory of  the  United  States.  While  Mr.  Thornton  sat  air  ig 
Senators  as  a  sort  of  consulting  member  or  referee,  but 
without  a  vote;  Meek  had  the  private  ear  of  the  Presi- 
dent, and  mingled  freely  among  members  of  both  Houses, 
in  a  social  character,  thereby  exercising  a  more  immediate 
influence  than  his  more  learned  coadjutor.  Happily  their 
aims  were  not  dissimilar,  although  their  characters  were; 
and  the  proper  and  prudish  mission  delegate,  though  he 
might  often  be  shocked  by  the  private  follies  of  the  legis- 
lative messenger  from  Oregon,  could  find  no  fault  with  the 
manner  in  which  he  discharged  his  duty  to  their  common 
country. 

The  bill  to  admit  Oregon  as  a  tei-ritory  which  had  been 
so  long  before  Congress,  and  failed  only  because  certain 
southern  Senators  insisted  on  an  amendment  allowing  slave 
property  to  be  introduced  into  that  territory^,  was  again 
under  discussion  in  the  Senate.  The  following  extract 
from  a  speech  of  Benton's,  delivered  May  31st,  before  the 
Senate,  shows  how  his  energies  were  taxed  in  support  of 
the  Oregon  cause — a  cause  which  he  had  fostered  from  its 
infancy,  and  which  he  never  deserted  until  •  his  eiforts  to 
extend  the  United  States  government  to  ^  he  Pacific  Onean 
were  crowned  with  success : —         "- 


EXTUACT  FROM  HLNTON's  OUEOON  Sl'EEClI. 


455 


11 


"  Only  three  or  four  yean  jiro,  the  whole  United  8tftt«'8  Heemed  to  Iw  in- 
llaim  il  with  ii  ilcsin'  to  jjet  pofisesnion  of  On'f^on.  It  wuh  one  of  tlic  al»m)rl)iM;j 
iiiiil  ii;.'itatiii}5  qiu'stiorm  of  the  oontiiicnt.  To  ohtiiin  l•X(•hl^*ive  poHses.sioii  of 
()ri';;('ii,  till"  {^reiiteot  eil'orts  were  made,  and  it  wa«  at  length  ol)tain«'<l.  W'liat 
nixt?  At>t'r  this  nctiiiil  orciipution  of  the  entire  eontincnt,  and  havinj^  thus 
(ilitiiiiu'il  cxcliiMke  jioHftession  of  On-^on  in  order  that  we  nii^d'l  ^iovirn  it,  we 
li;ivc  seen  cession  atU-r  session  of  Conjjniss  pass  away  witlumt  a  sin-^ie  tliiiij; 
iiiiii;;  done  tiir  the  ^^overninent  of  a  country,  to  obtain  posBcssion  of  which  wo 
were  wiiliiij;  to  fjo  to  war  with  Kuj^fhind  I 

Year  ath^r  year,  and  s«'Ssion  aller  session  have  gon  by,  ond  to  this  day  the 
l;i\v(i  of  the  United  States  have  not  b'jcn  extended  over  that  Territory.  In  tho 
iiuaii  lime,  a  <;reat  connnunity  is  ^rowin^  up  .  ere,  «  nijosetl  jit  tliis  time  of 
tKcIve  tliousand  souls — persons  from  all  parih  of  the  worl-',  from  Asia  as  well 
thmi  Europe  an<l  Amer'ea — and  whiih,  till  this  ♦inie,  have  been  jtreserved 
in  order  by  compact  amon};  tnemselves.  ♦^Jreat  i  librts  havt*  been  maile  to  pre- 
pcrvf  order — most  meritorious  efforts,  whieli  ha\':  evinced  their  anxiety  to 
maintain  their  own  reputation  and  that  of  the  country  to  wliicb  they  belon;^. 
Tluir  efforts  have  Ijcen  eminently  meritorious  ;  but  we  all  kiujw  ;)nt  voluntary 
^(ivi'rnineiits  cannot  last — that  they  are  temporary  in  their  very  nature,  iind 
iiiii.'t  eni'Dimter  rude  shocks  and  resistance,  under  which  they  must  fall.  lie- 
Miles  the  inconvenience  resulting  from  the  absence  of  an  organi/(!d  <,'overnment, 
wi'  are  to  recollect  that  thyre  never  yet  has  been  a  civilized  settlement  in  terri- 
tiny  occiipietl  by  the  aboriginal  inhabitants,  in  which  a  war  between  the  races 
liaH  not  occurred.  Down  to  the  present  moment,  the  settlers  in  Oregon  had 
escaped  a  conflict  with  tho  Indians.  Now  the  war  between  them  is  breaking 
cut ;  and  I  cannot  resist  tho  conviction,  that  if  tliere  had  been  a  regularly  or- 
jrani/ed  government  in  that  country,  nnmediately  after  tho  treaty  with  Great 
Britain,  with  a  military  force  to  sustain  it, — for  a  government  in  such  ^  region, 
Forcnote,  would  be  nothing  without  military  force, — the  calamities  now  im- 
peiiiliag  over  that  country  might  have  been  averted. 

But  no  government  was  established ;  and  now  all  these  evils  are  coming 
upon  these  people,  as  everybody  muat  have  foreseen  they  would  come  ;  and  in 
the  depth  of  winter,  they  send  to  us  a  special  messenger,  who  makes  his  way 
aemss  the  Rocky  Mountains  at  a  time  when  almost  every  living  thing  perished 
in  the  snow — when  the  snow  was  at  such  a  depth  that  nothing  could  |>enetrate 
to  tlie  bottom  of  it.  He  made  his  way  across,  however,  and  brings  these  com- 
plaints which  we  now  hear.  They  arc  in  a  suffering  condition.  Not  a  moment 
of  time  is  to  Ijc  lost.  If  the  bill  were  passed  this  instant, — this  morning,  as 
I  hojM'd  it  would  be, — it  would  refjuire  tho  utmost  degree  of  vigor  in  the  execu- 
tion of  it  to  be  able  to  send  troops  across  the  itocky  Mountains  before  tho  sejt- 
.«nn  of  di:ep  snow.  They  should  cross  the  mountains  before  the  month  of  Sejj- 
tomber.  I  was  in  hopes  then,  that  on  this  occasion,  there  would  be  nothing  to 
delay  action — that  wo  should  all  have  united  in  deploring  that  for  years  the 
Imposition  to  give  these  people  government  and  laws  has  been  defeated  by  the 
introduction  of  a  question  of  no  practical  -consequenco,  but  which  has  had  tho 


■§■' 
■M" 


45G 


EXTRACT  FROM  BENTON  S  OREGON  SPEECH. 


effect  of  depriving  these  people  of  all  government,  and  bringing  about  the 
massacres  which  have  taken  place,  and  in  which  the  benevolent  missionary  has 
fallen  in  the  midst  of  his  labors.     All  the  calamities  which  have  taken  place  in 
that  country  have  resulted  from  mixing  up  this  question,  which  has  not  a  par- 
tide  of  practical  value,  with  all  the  measures  which  have  been  introduced  for 
the  organization  of  a  government  in  Oregon.     All  the  laws  passed  by  the  Con- 
gress of  the  United  States  can  have  no  effect  on  the  question  of  slavery  there. 
In  that  country  there  is  a  law  suj)erior  to  any  which  Congress  can  pass  on  the 
sul)joct  of  slavery.     There  is  a  law  of  climate,  of  position,  and  of  Nature  her- 
self, against  it.     Besides,  the  people  of  the  country  itself,  by  flir  the  largest 
number  of  whom  have  gone  out  from  slave-holding  States,  many  of  them  from 
the  State  of  Missouri,  in  their  organic  law,  communicated  to  Congress  more 
than  a  year  ago,  and  printed  among  our  documents  at  the  last  session,  declare 
that  the  law  of  nature  is  against  slavery  in  that  region.     Who  would  think  of 
carrying  slaves  to  the  Lake  of  the  Woods  ?  and  what  would  anybody  think  of 
a  law  of  Congress  which  should  say  that  slavery  should  or  should  not  exist 
there  ?     I  was  in  hopes,  then,  that  this  bill  would  be  allowed  to  pass  throunh 
this  morning.     And  it  was  in  order  to  avoid  any  delay  that  I  did  not  make  a 
separate  bill  to  raise  the  regiments  nt.'cessary  to  sustain  the  government  tliere, 
I  did  hope,  that  on  this  occasion — when  a  great  political  measure  of  the  hichest 
importance  is  pending,  which  has  been  delayed  for  years,  and  which  delay  has 
brought  on  the  massacres  of  which  we  now  hear — this  question,  which  has 
already  produced  these  calamities,  would  not  have  been  introduced,  and  that 
some  other  opportunity  would  have  been  taken  for  its  discussion.     Tliere  will 
be  opportunities  enough  for  its  discussion.     The  doors  of  legislation  are  open 
to  it  as  a  separate  measure.     I  trust,  even  now.  that  this  question  will  not  be 
permitted  to  delay  our  action.     The  delay  of  a  few  days  here  will  be  the  delay 
of  a  year  in  Oregon.     Delay  at  all  now,  is  delay  not  for  a  week  or  a  month,  bnt 
for  a  year,  during  all  which  time  these  calamities  will  continue. 
m******mit* 
With  respect  to  the  question  itself,  I  am  ready  to  meet  it  in  every  shape  and 
form.     Let  me  here  say,  that  no  gentleman  on  this  floor  must  assume  to  be  the 
representative  of  the  fifteen  slave-holding  States.     I  assume  to  represent  one- 
no  more  than  one — and  if  I  can  satisfy  my  constituents,  my  duty  is  performei'. 
I  invade  no  gentleman's  bailiwick,  and  no  one  sh.all  invade  mine.    Let  every  one 
speak  for  himself.     Tliis  Federal  Government  was  made  for  something  else 
than  to  have  this  pestiferous  question  constantly  thrust  upon  us  to  the  intemip- 
tion  of  the  most  important  business.     I  am  willing  to  vote  down  this  question 
at  this  moment ;  I  am  willing  to  take  it  up  and  act  upon  it  in  all  its  extent  and 
bearings,  at  the  proper  time,  when  its  consideration  will  not  interrupt  andj 
destroy  important  measures.     What  I  protest  against  is,  to  have  the  real  busi- 
ness of  the  country — the  pressing,  urgent,  crying  business  of  the  country- 
stopped,  prostrated,  defeated,  by  thrusting  this  question  ujjon  us.     We  read  in 
Holy  Writ,  that  a  certain  people  were  cursed  by  the  plague  of  frogs,  and  that 
the  plague  was  everywhere.    You  could  not  look  upon  the  table  but  there  were 


WASniNOTON   SOCIETY CURIOSITY   OF   LADIES. 


457 


fiozs ;  V""  could  not  sit  down  at  the  banquet  but  there  were  frogs  ;  you  could 
not  "0  to  the  bridal  couch  and  lift  the  sheets  but  there  were  frogs !  We  can 
s'c  iiutliinj;,  touch  nothing,  have  no  meiisures  proposed,  without  having  this 
pi'slileiKi;  tlirust  before  us.  Here  it  is,  this  black  qtiostion,  forever  on  the 
table,  on  the  nuptial  couch — everywhere !  So  it  was  not  in  the  better  days  of 
tlie  K('ptil>lic'.  I  remember  the  time  when  no  one  would  have  thought  of  ask- 
iiicr  a  public  man  what  his  views  were  on  the  extension  of  slavery,  any  more 
than  wliat  was  the  length  of  his  foot ;  and  those  were  happy  days  which,  al- 
though gone  by,  arc  remembered,  and  may,  perhaps,  be  brought  liack. 

Wc  ought  to  vote  down  this  amenduient  as  a  thing  which  should  not  be 
ailowid  to  interrupt  our  action.  Our  action  ehoidd  not  be  delayed  a  single 
moment.  This  cruel  war,  which  cannot  continue  in  Oregon  without  extending 
to  California,  must  be  stopped  without  delay.  Oregon  and  California  nuist  be 
ijavcd  from  the  desolation  of  an  Indian  war.  Whatever  opinions  may  be  en- 
tirtainiil  upon  the  subject  of  slavery,  let  us  agree  on  this  point,  that  we  will 
give  law  and  government  to  the  people  of  Oregon,  and  stop,  if  we  can,  the 
proirivfis  of  this  Indian  war."  _ , 

;  .i'.'V.    ^  !    ■.■■■-  v    I.      "i -fi-  ^v  t         -IV    ....    ...i   ...i. 

This  Avas  the  tone  which  the  friends  of  Oregon  pre- 
served through  that  last  session  of  Congress  in  which  the 
Oregon  bill  was  under  discussion.  3^/3  x,^ 

In  the  meantime  our  hero  was  making  the  most  of  his 
advantages.  He  went  to  dinners  and  champagne  su})pers, 
besides  giving  an  occasional  one  of  the  latter.  At  the 
pi'osidential  levees  he  made  himself  agreeable  to  witty  and 
distinguished  ladies,  answering  innumerable  questions 
about  Oregon  and  Indians,  generally  with  a  veil  of  reserve 
between  himself  and  the  questioner  whenever  the  inqui- 
ries became,  as  tiiey  sometimes  would,  disagreeably  search- 
iii;...  Again  the  spirit  of  perversity  and  mischief  led  him 
to  make  his  answers  so  very  direct  as  to  startle  or  bewilder 
the  questioner. 

On  one  occasion  a  lady  with  whom  he  was  promenading 
a  drawing-room  at  some  Senator's  reception,  admiring  his 
handsome  physique  perhaps,  and  wondering  if  any  woman 
owned  it,  finally  ventured  the  question — was  he  married  ? 

"Yes,  indeed,"  answered  Meek,  with  emphasis,  "I  have 
a  wife  and  several  children.." 


li 


m 


458 


KIT  CARSON — THE  CONTINGENT  FUND. 


I  ! 


It; 


"Oh  dear,''  exclaimed  the  hady,  "  I  should  think  your 
wife  would  be  so  afraid  of  the  Indians!" 

"Afraid  of  the  Indians!"  exclaimed  Meek  in  his  turn' 
"  why,  madam,  she  is  an  Indian  herself!" 

No  further  remarks  on  the  subject  were  ventured  that 
evening  ;  ard  it  is  doubtful  if  the  lady  did  not  take  liis 
answer  as  a  rebuke  to  her  curiosity  rather  than  the  plain 
truth  that  it  was. 

Meek  found  his  old  comrade,  Kit  Carson,  in  Washington, 
staying  with  Fremont  at  the  house  of  Senator  Benton. 
Kit,  who  had  left  the  mountains  as  poor  as  any  other  of 
the  mountain-men,  had  no  resource  at  that  time  except 
the  pay  furnished  by  Fremont  for  his  services  as  guide  and 
explorer  in  the  California  and  Oregon  expeditions;  where, 
in  fact,  it  was  Carson  and  not  Fremont  who  deserved  fiune 
as  a  path-finder.  However  that  may  be,  Carson  had  as 
little  money  as  men  of  his  class  usually  have,  and  needed 
it  as  much.  So  long  as  Meek's  purse  was  supplied,  as  it 
generally  was,  by  some  member  of  the  family  at  the  White 
House,  Carson  could  borrow  from  him.  But  one  being 
quite  as  careless  of  money  as  the  other,  they  were  some- 
times both  out  of  pocket  at  the  same  time.  In  that  case 
the  conversation  was  apt  to  take  a  turn  like  this : 

Carson.     Meek,  let  me  have  some  money,  can't  you? 

Meeh.     I  hav  'nt  got  any  money,  Kit. 

Carson.     Go  and  get  some. 

'•'"'  Meek.        it,  whar  am  I  to  get  money  from  ? 

'     Carson.     Try  the  "contingent  fund,"  can't  you? 

Truth  to  tell  the  contingent  fund  was  made  to  pay  for 
a  good  many  things  not  properly  chargeable  to  the  neces- 
sary expenditures  of  "Envoy  Extraordinary"    like  our 
friend  from  Oregon. 
yt^h  rjtyjp  favoritism  Avith  which  our  hero  was  everywhere  re- 
•  ceived  was  something  remarkable,  even  when  all  the  cir- 


GRAND   RECEPTION   AT   BALTIMORE. 


459 


cumstiinccs  of  liis  relationship  to  the  chief  magistrate,  and 
the  popuharity  of  the  Oregon  question  were  considered. 
Doubtless  the  novelty  of  having  a  bear-fighting  and  In- 
dian-fighting Rocky  Mountain  man  to  lionize,  was  one 
n-reat  secret  of  the  furore  Avhich  greeted  him  wherever  he 
vent ;  but  even  that  fails  to  account  fully  for  the  enthu- 
siasm he  awakened,  since  mountain-men  had  begun  to  be 
pretty  well  known  and  understood,  from  the  journal  of 
Fremont  and  other  explorers.  It  could  only  have  been 
the  social  genius  of  the  man  which  (jnabled  him  to  over- 
come the  impediments  of  lack  of  education,  and  the  asso- 
ciations of  half  a  lifetime,  Bux  whatever  was  the  fortu- 
uate  cause  of  his  success,  he  enjoyed  it  to  the  full.  \Ie 
took  excursions  about  the  country  in  all  directions, 
petted  and  spoiled  like  any  "curled  darling"  instead  of 
the  six-foot-two  Rocky  Mountain  trapper  that  he  was. 

Ill  June  he  received  an  invitation  to  Baltimore,  tender- 
ed by  the  city  council,  and  was  received  by  that  body 
with  the  mayor  at  its  head,  in  whose  carriage  he  was  con- 
veyed to  Monument  Square,  to  be  welcomed  by  a  thou- 
sand ladies,  smiling  and  showering  roses  upon  him  as  he 
passed.  And  kissing  the  roses  because  he  could  not  kiss 
the  ladies,  he  bowed  and  smiled  himself  past  the  festive 
groups  waiting  to  receive  the  messenger  from  Oregon. 
Music,  dining,  and  the  parade  usual  to  such  occasions 
distinguished  this  day,  which  Meek  declares  to  have  been 
the  proudest  of  his  life  ;  not  denying  that  the  beauty  of 
the  Baltimore  ladies  contributed  chiefly  to  produce  that 
impression. 

On  the  fourth  of  July,  Po^k  laid  the  corner  stone  of  the 
National  Monument.  The  occasion  was  celebrated  with 
great  eclat^  the  address  being  delivered  by  Winthrop,  the 
military  display,  and  the  fire-works  in  the  evening  being 
unusually  fine.     In  the  procession  General  Scott  and  staff 


!i; 


'm 


l?5 


460      THE   LOWELL   FACTORY    GIRLS NATURAL   REGRETS. 

rode  on  one  side  of  the  President's  carriage,  Col.  May  and 
Meek  on  the  other, — Meek  making  a  great  display  of 
horsemanship,  in  which  as  a  mountain-man  he  excelled. 

A  little  later  in  the  summer  Meek  joined  a  party  of  Con- 
gressmen who  were  making  campaign  speeches  in  the 
principal  cities  of  the  north.  At  Lowell,  Mass.,  he  visited 
the  cotton  factories,  and  was  equally  surprised  at  the  ex- 
tent of  the  works,  and  the  number  of  young  women  em- 
ployed in  them.  Seeing  this,  the  forewoman  requested 
him  to  stop  until  noon  and  see  the  girls  come  out.  As 
they  passed  in  review  before  him,  she  asked  if  he  had 
made  his  choice. 

"No,"  replied  the  gallant  Oregonian,  "  it  would  be  im- 
possib^o  to  choose,  out  of  such  a  lot  as  that ;  I  should  have 
to  take  them  all."  >     . 

If  our  hero,  under  all  his  gaity  smothered  a  sigh  of  re- 
gret that  he  was  not  at  liberty  to  take  one — a  woman  like 
those  with  whom  for  the  first  time  in  his  life  he  was  privi- 
leged to  associate — who  shall  blame  him  ?     The  kind  of 
life  he  was  living  now  was  something  totally  different  to 
anything  in  the  past.     It  opened  to  his    comprehension 
delightful  possibilities  of  what  might  have  been  done  and 
enjoyed  under  other  circumstances,  yet  which  now  never 
could  be  done  or  enjoyed,  until  sometimes  he  was  rea^^ 
to  fly  from  all  these  allurements,  and  hide  himself  again 
in  tho  Rocky  Mountains.  Then  again  by  a  desperate  effort, 
such  thoughts  were  banished,  and  he  rushed  more  eagerly 
than  before  into  every  pleasure  afforded  by  the  present 
moment,  as  if  to  make  the  present  atone  for  the  past  and 
the  future. 

The  kindness  of  the  ladies  at  the  White  House,  while  it 
was  something  to  be  grateful  for,  as  well  as  to  make  him 
envied,  often  had  the  effect  to  disturb  his  tranquiUty  by 
the  suggestions  it  gave  rise  to.     Yet  he  was  always  de- 


TS 


1   REGRETS. 

,  Col.  May  and 
eat  display  of 
he  excelled. 
a  party  of  Con- 
eeches  in  the 
ass.,  he  visited 
sed  at  the  ex- 
ng  women  em- 
man  requested 
come  out.  As 
5ked  if  he  had 


'•J  ,:     .  -,    ■      -  ',t  ■ 


U'>t 


t  would  be  im- 
I  should  have 


d  a  sigh  of  re- 

-a  woman  like 

3  he  was  privi- 

The  kind  of 

lly  different  to 

3Gmprehen^ion 

been  done  and 

ich  now  never 

he  was  rear , 

himself  again 

Bsperate  effort, 

L  more  eagerly 

by  the  present 

)r  the  past  and 


louse,  while  it 

,s  to  make  him 

tranquihty  by 

yas  always  de- 


Wn 


COMMODORE    WILKES- 


-"  OREGON   LIES." 


4G1 


mandin^^  it,  always  accepting  it.  So  constantly  was  he 
tlie  attendant  of  his  lady  cousins  in  public  and  in  private, 
riding  and  driving,  or  sauntering  in  the  gardens  of  the 
presidential  mansion,  that  the  less  favored  among  their 
acquaintances  felt  called  upon  to  believe  themselves  ag- 
frrieved.  Often,  as  the  tall  form  of  our  hero  was  seen 
with  a  lady  on  either  arm  promenading  the  gardens  at 
evening,  the  question  wouhl  pass  among  the  curious  but 
uninitiated — "Who  is  that?"     And  the  reply  of  some 

jealous  grumbler  would  be — "It  is  that     Rocky 

Mountain  man,"  so  loud  sometimes  as  to  be  overheard  by 
the  careless  trio,  who  smothereal  a  laugh  behind  a  hat  or 
a  fan.  .      ■;.:.' 

And  so  passed  that  brief  summer  of  our  hero's  life.  A 
great  deal  of  experience,  of  sight-seeing,  and  enjoyment 
had  been  crowded  into  a  short  few  months  of  time.  He 
had  been  introduced  to  and  taken  by  the  hand  by  the 
most  celebrated  men  of  the  day.  Nor  had  he  failed  to 
meet  with  men  whom  he  had  known  in  the  mountains  and 
in  Oregon.  His  old  employer,  Wilkes,  who  was  ill  in 
Washington,  sent  for  him  to  come  and  tell  "  some  of  those 
Oregon  Hes"  for  his  amusement,  and  Meek,  to  humor  him, 
stretched  some  of  his  good  stories  to  the  most  wonderful 
dimensions.       ■•""■'■.  . ,        ■ 

But  from  the  very  nature  of  the  enjoyment  it  could  not 
last  long ;  it  was  too  vivid  and  sensational  for  constant 
wear.  Feeling  this,  he  began  to  weary  of  Washington, 
and  more  particularly  since  he  had  for  the  last  few  weeks 
been  stopping  away  from  the  White  House.  In  one  of  his 
restless  moods  he  paid  a  visit  to  Polk,  who  detecting  the 

state  of  his  mind  asked  laughingly ., 

"Well,  Meek,  what  do  you  want  now?" 

"  I  want  to  be  franked." 

"How  long  will  five  hundred  dollars  last  you?" 


^ 


462 


EXTRAVAQANT    HABITS. 


"About  as  many  days  as  there  ar'  hundreds,  I  reckon." 

"  You  are  shockingly  extravagant,  Meek.  Where  do 
you  think  all  this  money  is  to  come  from  ?" 

"It  is  not  my  business  to  know,  Mr.  President,"  replied 
Meek,  laughing,  "  but  it  is  the  business  of  these  United 
States  to  pay  the  expenses  of  the  messenger  from  Oregon 
isn't  it?" 

"  I  think  1  will  send  you  to  the  Secretary  of  War  to  be 
franked.  Meek ;  his  frank  is  better  than  mine.  But  no, 
stay ;  I  will  speak  to  Knox  about  it  this  time.  And  you 
must  not  spend  your  money  so  recklessly,  Meek ;  it  will 
not  do — it  will  not  do."    #• 

Meek  thanked  the  President  both  for  the  money  and  the 
advice,  but  gave  a  champagne  supper  the  next  night,  and 
in  a  week's  time  was  as  empty-handed  as  ever.  Washing- 
ton manners  were  in  some  respects  too  much  like  moun- 
tain manners  for  five  hundred  dollars  to  go  a  great  ways. 


.„      .     '       i 

!•■■               1         i 

\              ] 
1  ■ 

'"■'i:>\-^:M-\  '::^i;tf^y^}v^-j^,:  . 


M«.   THORNTON   AS   REPRESENTATIVE    OF   OREGON.      463 


CHAPTER     XL, 


We  must  go  back  a  little  way  and  take  up  the  thread 
of  Oregon's  political  history  as  it  relates  to  the  persons 
and  events  of  which  we  have  .been  writing.  However 
inogular  had  been  the  appointment  of  a  delegate  for 
Oregon,  while  still  unrecognized  by  the  general  govern- 
ment, and  however  distasteful  as  a  party  measure  the  ap- 
pointment of  Mr.  Thornton  had  been  to  a  majority  of  the 
people  of  Oregon,  there  was  nevertheless  sufficient  merit 
in  his  acts,  since  events  had  turned  out  as  they  had,  to 
reconcile  even  his  enemies  to  them.  For  what  did  it  con- 
cern the  people  who  procured  or  helped  to  procure  the 
blessings  they  asked  for,  so  only  that  they  were  made  sure 
of  the  blessings.     '■  ^  ''     '    li: 

Mr.  Thornton  had  done  what  he  could  in  "Washington 
to  secure  for  Oregon  the  things  desired  by  her  citizens. 
Immediately  on  his  arrival  he  had  prepared,  at  the  instance 
of  Mr,  Polk,  a  memorial  to  Congress  setting  forth  the  con- 
dition of  the  country  and  the  wants  of  the  colony.  In 
addition  to  this  he  had  prayed  for  the  passage  of  a  law 
organizing  a  territorial  government,  and  donating  land- 
claims.  To  be  sure  Congress  had  been  memorialized  on 
these  subjects  for  years,  and  all  to  no  purpose.  But  there 
ivas  a  decided  advantage  in  having  a  man  versed  in  law 
and  conversant  with  legal  forms  as  well  as  territorial  wants, 
to  assist  in  getting  up  the  bills  concerning  Oregon.  Be- 
sides, Thornton  was  a  conscientious  man,  and  would  not 

agree  to  a  fraud. 
30 


4G4 


THE   TERUITOHIAL   BILL   IN   THE   SENATE. 


The  tcrritoriiil  bill  was  gotten  up  among  the  friends  of 
Oregon  in  the  Free-Soil  party,  and  had  incorporated  into 
it  the  ordinance  of  1787,  prohibiting  slavery,  and  this  was 
so  not  only  because  the  free-soilers  desired  it,  but  because 
the  people  of  Oregon  desired  it.  But  a  few  sagacious 
Southern  members  had  conceived  the  idea  of  makino-  Mr. 
Thornton  responsible  for  the  expunging  of  the  obnoxious 
clause,  by  trying  to  convince  h'm  that  the  bill  could  never 
be  passed  with  the  ordinance  of  1787  in  it,  and  that  would 
he,  Thornton,  but  consent  to  have  it  stricken  out,  they 
were  assured  that  the  friends  of  free-soil  would  allow  it  to 
pass  for  the  sake  of  waiting,  expectant  Oregon.  So  rea- 
soned Calhoun  and  others. 

Thornton,  however,  was  both  too  wise  and  too  faithful 
to  be  humbugged  in  that  specious  manner.  He  assured 
Mr.  Calhoun  that  in  the  first  place  he  had  no  authority  to 
consent  to  the  expunging  of  the  ordinance  of  1787;  in 
the  second  place,  that  the  people  of  Oregon  would  wait 
for  a  territorial  government  until  they  could  obtain  one 
which  promised  them  free  institutions ;  and  in  the  third 
place,  that  he  did  not  believe  the  free-soil  party  would  ever 
allow  the  bill  to  pass,  amended  as  Mr.  Calhoun  proposed; 
therefore  that  had  he  the  authority  to  consent  to  the  amend- 
ment, he  should  gain  nothing,  but  lose  all  by  doing  so. 

Thus,  through  the  almost  entire  summer,  the  friends 
and  the  enemies  of  free-soil  quarreled  and  schemed  over 
Oregon.  Not  that  any  were  really  opposed  to  the  exten- 
sion of"  the  Government  over  that  territory,  but  only  that 
the  Southern  members  objected  to  more  free  soil. 

The  President  was  very  anxious  that  the  bill  should 
pass  in  some  shape  during  his  administration.  Benton  of 
Missouri,  was  eager  for  its  passage  as  it  was.  Butler  of 
South  Carolina,  fiercely  opposed  to  it.  Numerous  were 
the  skirmishes  which  these  two  Senators  had  over  the 


r 


THE   BILL   OPPOBED   BY   SQUTHEUNEKS.   - 


465 


()ie""on  question  ;  and  a  duel  would,  in  one  inHtanco,  hnvo 
resulted,  had  not  the  arrest  of  the  parties  put  a  tormina- 
tion  to  the  affair.  .    •  .'. 

The  land  bill  too,  gave  considerable  trouble ;  not  from 
any  opposition  it  encountered,  but  because  nobody  knew 
Low  much  land  to  give  each  settler.  Some  Congressmen, 
in  the  magnificence  of  their  generosity  and  compassion, 
were  for  granting  one  thousand  acres  to  every  white  male 
settler  of  the  territory.  The  committee  who  had  this  bill 
in  hand,  on  consulting  the  two  Oregon  representatives, 
were  informed  that  the  proposed  donation  was  altogether 
tuo  large,  and  it  was  subsequently  reduced. 

The  close  of  the  session  was  at  hand  and  nothing  had 
'oeen  done  except  to  talk.  Congress  was  to  adjourn  at 
noon  on  Monday,  August  14th,  and  it  was  now  Saturday 
the  12th.  The  friends  of  Oregon  were  anxious;  the  two 
waiting  Oregonians  nearly  desperate.  On  this  morning 
of  the  12th,  the  friends  of  the  bill,  under  Benton's  lead,  de- 
terrained  upon  obtaining  a  vote  on  the  final  passage  of  the 
l)ill;  resolving  that  they  would  not  yield  to  u^j  usual  mo- 
tions for  delay  and  adjournments,  but  that  they  would,  if 
necessary,  sit  until  twelve  o'clock  Monday. 

On  the  other  hand,  the  southern  members,  finding  that 
no  motion  for  adjournment  could  be  made  to  prevail,  But- 
ler, of  South  Carolina,  moved  that  the  Senate  go  into  ex- 
ecutive session.  This  was  done  because  under  the  rules 
of  the  Senate,  the  Oregon  bill  would  necessarily  give 
place  to  the  business  of  the  executive  session.  And  the 
business  to  which  Senator  Butler  proposed  to  call  the  at- 
tention of  the  senate  was  certain  conduct  of  the  gentle- 
man from  Missouri,  which  he  characterized  as  dishonorable. 

At  the  word  "  dishonorable  "  Benton  sprang  to  his  feet, 
^claiming — "You  lie,  sir!  you  lie! !  I  cram  the  lie  down 
your  tlu-oat ! ! !"  at  the  same  time  advancing  toward  Butler 


\ 


466 


SCENE    BETWEEN    BU'fl.ER    AND    HENTOX. 


with  his  fist  clenched  and  raised  in  a  thr(>atening  manner. 
Butler  on  his  part  seemed  very  willing  to  engage  in  a  per- 
sonal conflict,  awaiting  his  antagonist  with  the  genuine 
game  look  which  has  formerly  been  supposed  to  be  one 
of  the  signs  of  good  southern  blood.  " 

But  a  fight  on  the  floor  of  the  Senate  between  two  of 
its  white-haired  members  could  not  be  suilered  to  go  on, 
the  combatants  being  separated  by  the  other  Senators. 
who  crowded  in  between.  The  eyes  of  Butler  burned 
fiercely  as  he  said  to  Benton  over  the  heads  of  his  of- 
ficious friends, — 

"I  will  see  you,  sir,  at  another  time  and  place!" 

"Very  well,  sir;"  returned  Benton:  "but  you  will  do 
well  to  understand  that  when  I  fight,  I  fight  for  a  fu- 
neral!" 

That  this  affair  did  not  terminate  in  d  funeral  was 
probably  owing  to  the  arrest  of  the  parties. 

At  ten  o'clock  Saturday  evening,  order  having  been  re- 
stored, and  no  adjournment  having  yet  prevailed.  Senator 
Foote  of  Mississippi,  arose  and  commenced  to  speak  in  a 
manner  most  irritatingly  drawling  and  dull;  saying  that 
since  there  was  to  be  no  adjournment  before  twelve  o'clock 
Monday  noon,  he  proposed  to  entertain  to  the  best  of  liis 
ability  the  grave  deliberative  body  before  him. 

Commencing  at  the  creation  of  Adam,  he  gave  the  Bi- 
ble Story — the  creation  of  Eve ;  the  fall  of  man ;  the  his- 
tory of  the  children  of  Israel ;  the  stories  of  the  proph- 
ets ;  ecclesiastical  history, — only  yielding  the  floor  for  a 
motion,  at  intervals  of  an  hour  each,  continuing  to  drawl 
through  the  time  hour  after  hour. 

Sleepy  senators  betook  themselves  to  the  anteroom  to 
lunch,  to  drink,  to  talk  to  the  waiting  ones,  and  to  sleep. 
But  whenever  a  motion  was  made,  a  page  aroused  the 
sleepers  and  they  took  their  seats  and  voted. 


SENATOR   FOOTb's   LECTUIIE — THE   hill  l'A8SED.        4G7 

Thus  woro  the  uiglit  away.  The  Sabbath  morning's  sun 
arose,  and  still  Foote  waa  in  the  midst  of  liis  Bible  disqui- 
sitions. At  length,  two  hours  after  sunrise,  a  consultation 
was  held  between  Butler,  Mason,  Calhoun,  Davis  and 
Foote,  which  resulted  in  the  announcement  that  no  further 
opposition  would  be  offered  to  taking  the  vote  upon  the 
liiiiil  passage  of  the  Oregon  bill.  The  vote  was  then  ta- 
ken, the  bill  passed,  and  the  weary  senate  adjourned,  to 
meet  again  on  Monday  for  a  final  adjournment. 

After  the  adjournment  on  Sunday  morning,  Benton  in 
alhidiiig  to  the  scene  between  himself  and  the  senator 
tioiu  South  Carolina,  said,  "he  did  not  blame  Judge  But- 
ler so  much  as  he  might ;   because  that    scoundrel 

Calhoun  was  urging  Butler  to  it,  while  he  himself  sat  say- 
ing nothing,  and  doing  nothing,  but  looking  as  demure  as 
a  courtesan  at  a  christening."  -  -     -.  .- 

Truly  "such  are  the  compliments  that  pass  when  gen- 
tlemen meet."     ■>^''n';    r     ■>,.,  .  ,  .   ,.!>.  ,,..':^  -J.,,  5.  :      „ 

The  Land  bill,  or  Donation  act,  as  it  is  generally  known, 
failed  of  being  passed  at  this  session,  simply  because  it 
had  to  wait  for  the  Territorial  bill  to  be  passed,  being 
supplementary  to  it,  and  because  after  the  passage  of  that 
bill  there  was  no  time  to  take  up  the  other. 

As  Thornton  had  been  chiefly  instrumental  in  getting 
the  Donation  bill  into  shape,  it  was  a  severe  disappoint- 
ment, in  not  having  it  passed  at  the  same  session  with  the 
Territorial  bill,  and  having  to  return  to  Oregon  with- 
out this  welcome  present  to  the  people  of  the  new  ter- 
ritory. 

Collamer  of  Vermont,  sympathizing  with  the  failure  of 
the  Donation  Law,  proposed  to  T  .ornton  to  draw  up  a 
new  bill  including  some  amendments  suggested  by  him, 
and  to  forward  the  same  to  jis  (Collamer's)  address,  prom- 
ising to  see  what  could  be  done  with  it  thereafter.     This 


s/,  . 


468 


( '  >  '.'•  .J ' 


FAILrRE   OF    THE    LAND    BILL. 


y^mn 


I  --I 


Thornton  did,  and  also  carried  a  copy  of  it  home  to  Ore- 
gon, and  placed  it  in  the  hands  of  Oregon's  first  delegate 
to  Congress,  who,  after  making  a  few  alterations  in  the 
bill,  adopted  and  claimed  it  for  his  own.  The  bill  thus 
amended  and  re-amended,  became  a  law  in  September 
1850 ;  and  of  that  law  we  shall  have  occasion  to  speak 
hereafter. 


|i    ! 


■•■m 


-m 


.).-,.  I 


(.  ■*-.. 


Sv,T; 


dm: 


■.w,  :v 


'^r^'tiv. 


fr.'; 


.1  ' 


MEEK   APPOINTED    U.    a.    MARHUAL   FOIi   OREGON. 


469 


CHAPTER    XLI. 


1848-9.  The  long  susiDensc  ended,  Meek  prepared  to 
return  lo  Oregon,  if  not  without  some  regrets,  at  the  same 
time  not  unwillingly.  His  restless  temper,  and  life-long 
habits  of  unrestrained  freedom  began  to  revolt  against  the 
conventionality  of  his  position  in  Washington.  Besides, 
ill  appointing  officers  for  the  new  territory,  Polk  had  made 
him  United  States  Marshal,  than  which  no  office  could 
have  suited  him  better,  and  le  was  as  prompt  to  assume 
the  discharge  of  its  duties,  as  all  his  life  he  had  been  to 
undertake  any  duty  to  which  his  fortunes  assigned  him. 

On  the  20th  of  August,  only  six  days  after  the  passage 
of  the  territorial  bill,  he  received  his  papers  from  Buchan- 
an, and  set  off  for  Bedford  Springs,  whither  the  family 
from  the  White  House  were  flown  to  escape  from  the  suf- 
focating air  of  Washington  in  August.  He  had  brought 
liis  papers  to  be  signed  by  Polk,  and  being  expected  by 
the  President  found  everything  arranged  for  his  speedy 
departure  ;  Polk  even  ordering  a  seat  for  him  in  the  up- 
coming coach,  by  telegraph.  On  learning  this  from  the 
Presidf  nt,  at  dinner,  when  the  band  was  playing,  Meek 
turned  to  the  leader  and  ordered  him  to  play  "  Sweet 
Home,"  much  to  the  amusement  of  his  lady  cousins,  who 
had  their  own  views  of  the  sweets  of  a  home  in  Oregon. 
A  hurried  farewell,  spoken  to  each  of  his  friends  sepa- 
rately, and  Oregon's  new  Marshal  was  ready  to  proceed 
on  his  long  journey  toward  the  Pacific. 


'V 


'1 


470 


PAY    OF    THE    DELEGATES THE   LION  S   SHARE. 


I     . 


The  occasion  of  Polk's  haste  in  the  matter  of  getting 
Meek  started,  was  his  anxiety  to  have  the  Oregon  govern- 
ment become  a  fact  before  the  expiration  of  his  term  of 
oihce.  The  appointment  of  Governor  of  the  new  terri- 
tory had  been  offered  to  Shields,  and  declined.  Another 
commission  had  been  made  out,  appointing  General  Jo- 
seph Lane  of  Indiana,  Governor  of  Oregon,  and  the  com- 
mission Avas  that  day  signed  by  the  President  and  giveii 
to  Meek  to  be  delivered  to  Lane  in  the  shortest  possible 
time.  His  last  words  to  the  Marshal  on  parting  were— 
"  God  bless  you.  Meek.  Tell  Lane  to  have  a  territorial 
government  organized  during  my  administration." 

Of  the  ten  thousand  dollars  appropriated  by  Congress 
"to  be  expended  under  the  direction  of  the  President,  in 
payment  for  services  and  expenses  of  such  persons  as  had 
been  engaged  by  the  provisional  government  of  Oregon 
in  conveying  communications  to  and  from  the  United 
States;  and  for  purchase  of  presents  for  such  Indian 
tribes  as  the  peace  and  quiet  of  the  country  required"— 
Thornton  received  two  thousand  six  hundred  dollars, 
Meek  seven  thousand  four  hundred,  and  the  Indian  tribes 
none.  Whether  the  President  believed  that  the  peace 
and  quiet  of  the  country  did  not  require  presents  to  be 
made  to  the  Indians,  or  whether  family  credit  required 
that  Meek  should  get  the  lion's  share,  is  not  known.  How- 
ever that  may  be,  our  hero  felt  himself  to  be  quite  rich, 
and  proceeded  to  get  rid  of  his  superfluity,  as  will  hereafter 
be  seen,  with  his  customary  prodigality  and  enjoyment  of 
the  present  without  regard  to  the  future. 

Before  midnight  on  the  day  of  his  arrival  at  the  springs. 
Meek  was  on  his  way  to  Indiana  to  see  General  Lane.  Ar- 
riving at  the  Newburg  landing  one  morning  at  day-break, 
he  took  horse  immediately  for  the  General's  residence  at 
Newburg,  and  presented  him  with  hia  commission  soon 


THE   GOVERNOR   AND   MARSHAL   START   FOR   OREGON.       471 


after  breakflist.    Lane  sat  writing,  Avhcn  Meek,  introducing 
himself,  laid  his  papers  before  him.  - 

"Do  jou  accept?"  asked  Meek.  '  •  •   i 

"Yes,"  answered  Lane.  ■  :      • 

"How  soon  can  you  be  ready  to  start  ?"  '        • 

"111  fifteen  minutes!"  answered  Lane,  with  military 
promptness.  •,    -  -t     - 

Three  days,  however,  were  actually  required  to  make  the 
necessary  p'-eparations  for  leaving  his  fiirm  and  proceed- 
ing to  the  most  remote  corner  of  the  United  States  terri- 
tory. 

At  St.  Louis  they  were  detained  one  day,  waiting  for  a 
boat  to  Leavenworth,  where  they  expected  to  meet  their 
escort.  This  one  day  was  too  precious  to  be  lost  in  wait- 
ing by  so  business-like  a  person  as  our  hero,  who,  when 
nothing  more  important  was  to  be  done  generally  was 
found  trying  to  get  rid  of  liis  money.  So,  on  this  occa- 
sion, after  having  disburdened  himself  of  a  small  amount 
in  treating  the  new  Governor  and  all  his  acquaintances,  he 
entered  into  negotiations  with  a  peddler  who  was  impor- 
tuning the  passengers  to  buy  everything,  from  a  jack- 
knife  to  a  silk  dress.  <s.iiai'  -,!:.v^,i!iB"^; '»(-!;;-  ■'ftj«ji->aw  \-mMm 
Finding  that  Nat.  Lane,  the  General's  son,  wanted  a 
knife,  but  was  disposed  to  beat  down  the  price,  Meek 
made  an  offer  for  the  lot  of  a  dozen  or  two,  and  thereby 
prevented  Lane  getting  one  at  any  price.  Not  satisfied 
ivith  this  investment,  he  next  made  a  purchase  of  three 
whole  pieces  of  silk,  at  one  dollar  and  fifty  cents  per  yard. 
At  this  stage  of  the  transaction  General  Lane  interfered 
sufficiently  to  inquire  "  what  he  expected  to  do  with  that 
stuff?" 

"  Can't  tell,"  answered  Meek  ;  "but  I  reckon  it  is  worth 
tlio  monev." 
'•  Better  save  your  money,"  said  the  more  prudent  Lane. 


f 

■hJ^^B^HI   i 

1 

P^Pi 

472 


THE    ESCORT    OF    RIFLEMEN — THE    ROUTE. 


But  the  incorrigible  spendthrift  only  laughed,  and  threat- 
ened to  buy  out  the  Jew's  entire  stock,  if  Lane  persisted 
in  preaching  economy. 

At  St.  Louis,  besides  his  son  Nat.,  Lane  was  metk 
Lieut.  Hawkins,  who  was  appointed  to  the  command  of 
the  escort  of  twenty -five  riflemen,  and  Dr.  Hayden,  sur- 
geon of  the  company.  This  party  proceeded  to  Leaven- 
worth, the  point  of  starting,  where  the  wagons  and  men 
of  Hawkins'  command  awaited  them.  At  this  place,  Meek 
was  met  by  a  brother  and  two  sisters  who  had  come  to 
look  on  him  for  the  first  time  in  many  years.  The  two 
days'  delay  which  was  necessary  to  get  the  train  ready  for 
a  start,  aflTorded  an  opnorLunity  for  this  family  reunion,  the 
last  that  might  ever  occur  between  its  widely  separated 
branches,  new  shoots  from  which  extend  at  this  day  from 
Virginia  to  Alabama,  and  from  Tennessee  to  California 
and  Oregon. 

By  the  10th  of  September  the  new  government  was  on 
its  way  to  Oregon  in  the  persons  of  Lane  and  Meek.  The 
whole  company  of  officers,  men,  and  teamsters,  numbered 
about  fifty -five ;  the  wagons  ten  ;  and  riding-horses,  an 
extra  supply  for  each  rider. 

The  route  taken,  with  the  object  to  avoid  the  snows  of 
a  northern  winter,  was  from  Leavenworth  to  Santa  Fe, 
and  thence  down  the  Rio  Grande  to  near  El  Paso ;  thence 
northwesterly  by  Tucson,  in  Arizona;  thence  to  the 
Pimas  village  on  the  Gila  River  ;  following  the  Gila  to  its 
junction  with  the  Colorado,  thence  northwesterly  again  to 
the  Bay  of  San  Pedro  in  California.  From  this  place  the 
company  were  to  proceed  by  ship  to  San  Francisco  ;  and 
thence  again  by  ship  to  the  Columbia  River. 

On  the  Santa  Fe  trail  they  met  the  army  returning 
from  Mexico,  under  Price,  and  learned  from  them  that 
they  could  not  proceed  with  wagons  beyond  Santa  Fe. 


price's   AllMY — AN   ADVENTURE. 


473 


The  lateness  of  the  season,  although  it  was  not  attended 
with  snow,  as  on  the  northern  route  it  would  have  been, 
subjected  tlio  travelers 'nevertheless  to  the  strong,  cold 
winds  which  blow  over  the  vast  extent  of  open  country 
between  the  Missouri  River  and  the  high  mountain  range 
which  forms  the  water-shed  of  the  continent.  It  also 
made  it  more  difficult  to  subsist  the  animals,  especially 
after  meeting  Price's  army,  which  had  already  swept  the 
country  bare. 

On  coming  near  Santa  Fe,  Meek  was  riding  ahead  of 
his  party,  when  he  had  a  most  unexpected  encounter. 
Seeing  a  covered  traveling  carriage  drawn  up  under  the 
shade  of  some  trees  growing  beside  a  small  stream,  not 
fixr  off  from  the  trail,  he  resolved,  with  his  usual  love  of 
adventure,  to  discover  for  himself  the  character  of  the 
proprietor.  But  as  he  drew  nearer,  he  discovered  no 
one,  although  a  camp-table,  stood  under  the  trees,  spread 
Avith  refreshments,  not  only  of  a  solid,  but  a  fluid  nature. 
The  sight  of  a  bottle  of  cognac  induced  him  to  dismount, 
and  he  was  helping  himself  to  a  liberal  glass,  when  a 
head  was  protruded  from  a  covering  of  blankets  inside 
the  carriage,  and  a  heavy  bass  voice  was  heard  in  a  polite 
protest : 

"  Seems  to  me,  stranger,  you  are  making  free  with  my 
property !" 

"Here's  to  you,  sir,"  rejoined  the  purloiner  ;  "  it  isn't 
often  I  find  as  good  brandy  as  that," — holding  out  the 
glass  admiringly, — "  but  when  I  do,  I  make  it  a  point  of 
honor  not  to  pass  it." 

'•May  I  inquire  your  name,  sir?"  asked  the  owner  of 
the  brandy,  forced  to  smile  at  the  good-humored  audacity 
of  his  guest. 

"  I  couldn't  refuse  to  give  my  name  after  that," — re- 
placing the  glass  on  the  table, — "and  I  now  introduce 


.  S  —I 


J' 


474 


A   PLEASANT   AND    UNEXPECTED    ENCOUNTER. 


I  ! 


myself  as  Joseph  L.  Meek.  Esq.,  Marshal  of  Oregon,  on 
my  way  from  Washington  to  ii;^:sist  General  Lane  in  estab- 
lisliing  a  territorial  Government  west  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains. " 

"Meek! — what,  not  the  Joe  Meek  I  have  heard  my 
brothers  tell  so  much  about  ?" 

"  Joe  Meek  is  my  name ;  but  whar  did  your  brothers 
know  me  ?"  inquired  our  hero,  mystified  in  his  turn. 

"  I  think  you  must  have  known  Captain  William  Sub- 
lette and  his  brother  Milton,  ten  or  twelve  years  ago,  in 
the  Eocky  Mountains,"  said  the  gentleman,  getting  out  of 
the  carriage,  and  approaching  Meek  with  extended  hand. 

A  delighted  recognition  now  took  place.  From  Solo- 
mon Sublette,  the  owner  of  the  d./riage  and  the  cognac, 
Meek  learned  many  particulars  of  the  life  and  death  of 
his  former  leaders  in  the  mountains.  Neither  of  them 
were  then  living ;  but  this  younger  brother,  Solomon, 
had  inherited  Captain  Sublette's  wife  and  wealth  at  the 
same  time.  .After  these  explanations,  Mr.  Sublette  raised 
the  curtains  of  the  carriage  again,  and  assisted  to  descend 
from  it  a  lady,  whom  he  introduced  as  his  wife,  and  who 
exhibited  much  gratification  in  becoming  acquainted  with 
the  hero  of  many  a  tale  recited  to  her  by  her  former  hus- 
band, Captain  Sublette. 

In  the  midst  of  this  pleasant  exchange  of  reminiscences, 
the  remainder  of  Meek's  party  rode  up,  were  introduced, 
and  invited  to  regale  themselves  on  the  fine  liquors  with 
which  Mr.  Sublette's  carriage  proved  to  be  well  furnished. 
This  little  adventure  gave  our  hero  much  pleasure,  as 
furnishing  a  link  between  the  past  and  present,  and  bring- 
ing freshly  to  mind  many  incidents  already  beginning  to 
fade  in  his  memory,  <■    .r.^^.p,^-  ; 

At  Santa  Fe,  the  train  stopped  to  be  overhauled  and 
reconstructed.      The  wagons  having  to  be  abandoned, 


T^^^l 


DESERTION    OF    SOLDIERS DROUTH. 


475 


their  contents  had  to  be  packed  on  mules,  after  the  man- 
ner of  mountain  or  of  Mexican  travel  and  transportation. 
This  change  accomplished,  with  as  little  delay  as  possible, 
the  train  proceeded  without  any  other  than  the  usual 
difficulties,  as  far  as  Tucson,  when  two  of  the  twenty-five 
riflemen  deserted,  having  become  suddenly  enamored  of 
Hberty,  in  the  dry  and  dusty  region  of  southern  Arizona. 
Lieutenant  ILiwlcins,  immediately  on  discovering  the 
desertion,  dispatched  two  men,  well  armed,  to  compel 
their  return.  One  of  the  men  detailed  for  this  duty  be- 
longed to  the  riflemen,  but  the  other  was  an  American, 
who,  with  a  company  of  Mexican  packers,  had  joined  the 
train  at  Santa  Fe,  and  was  acting  in  the  capacity  of  pilot, 
hi  order  to  fit  out  this  volunteer  for  the  service,  always 
dangerous,  of  retaking  deserting  soldiers,  Meek  had  lent 
him  his  Colt's  revolvers.  It  was  a  vain  precaution,  how- 
ever, both  the  men  being  killed  in  attempting  to  capture 
the  deserters  ;  and  Meek's  pistols  were  never  more  heard 
of,  having  fallen  into  the  murderous  hands  of  the  run- 
aways, ;...,,..         ,....-.,(  ,^^ 


Drouth  now  began  to  be  the  serious  evil  with  which 
the  travelers  had  to  contend.  From  the  Pimas  villages 
westward,  it  continually  grcAV  worse,  the  animals  being 
greatly  reduced  from  the  want  both  of  food  and  water. 
At  the  crossing  of  the  Colorado,  the  animals  had  to  be 
crossed  over  by  swimming,  the  officers  and  men  by  rafts 
made  of  bulrushes.  Lane  and  Meek  being  the  first  to  be 
ferried  over,  were  landed  unexpectedly  in  the  midst  of  a 
Yuma  village.  The  Indians,  however,  gave  them  no 
trouble,  and,  except  the  little  artifice  of  drowning  some 
of  the  mules  at  the  crossing,  in  order  to  get  their  flesh  to 
eat,  committed  neither  murders  nor  thefts,  nor  any  out- 
rage whatever. 

It  was   quite  as  well   for   the   unlucky  mules  to   be 


476 


DEMORALIZATION    OF    THE    ESCORT. 


drowned  and  eaten  as  it  was  for  their  follows  to  travel  on 
over  tlio  arid  desert  before  them  until  they  starved  and 
perished,  which  they  nearly  all  did.  From  the  Colorado 
on,  the  company  of  Lieut.  Hawkins  became  thorougliW 
demoralized.  Not  only  would  the  animals  persist  in 
dying,  several  in  a  day,  but  the  soldiers  also  persisted  in 
deserting,  until,  by  the  time  he  reached  the  coast,  his  for- 
lorn hope  was  reduced  to  three  men.  But  it  was  not  the 
drouth  in  their  case  which  caused  the  desertions :  it  was 
rumors  which  they  heard  everywhere  along  the  route,  of 
mines  of  gold  and  silver,  where  they  flattered  themselves 
they  could  draw  better  pay  than  from  Uncle  Sam's  coffers, 

The  same  difliculty  from  desertion  harassed  Lieutenant- 
Colonel  Loring  in  the  following  summer,  when  he  at- 
tempted to  establish  a  line  of  posts  along  the  route  to 
Oregon,  by  the  way  of  Forts  Kearney,  Laramie,  and 
through  the  South  Pass  to  Fort  Hall.  His  mounted  rifle 
regiment  dwindled  down  to  almost  nothing.  At  one 
time,  over  one  hundred  men  deserted  in  a  body :  and  al- 
though he  pursued  and  captured  seventy  of  them,  he 
could  not  keep  them  from  deserting  again  at  the  first 
favorable  moment.  The  bones  of  many  of  those  gold- 
seeking  soldiers  were  left  on  the  plains,  where  wolves  had 
stripped  the  flesh  from  them ;  and  many  more  finally  had 
rude  burial  at  the  hands  of  fellow  gold-seekers :  but  few 
indeed  ever  won  or  enjoyed  that  for  which  they  risked 
everything. 

On  arriving  at  Cook's  wells,  some  distance  beyond  the 
Colorado,  our  travelers  found  that  the  water  at  this  place 
was  tainted  by  the  body  of  a  mule  which  had  lost  its  life 
some  days  before  in  endeavoring  to  get  at  the  water. 
This  was  a  painful  discovery  for  the  thirsty  party  to  make. 
However,  there  being  no  water  for  some  distance  ahead, 
General  Lane  boiled  some  of  it,  and  made  coifee  of  it, 


la  \ 


vs  to  travel  on 
;y  starved  and 
I  the  Colorado 
ne  thoroughly 
lals  persist  in 
30  persisted  in 
(  coast,  his  for- 
it  was  not  the 
^rtions :  it  was 
:  the  route,  of 
•ed  themselves 
)  Sara's  coffers, 
ed  Lieutenant- 
,  when  he  at- 
5  the  route  to 
Laramie,  and 

mounted  rifle 
iiig.  At  one 
3ody :  and  al- 

of  them,  he 
n  at  the  first 
)f  those  gold- 
ro  wolves  had 
)re  finally  had 

ers :  but  few 
h  they  risked 

e  beyond  the 
r  at  this  place 
id  lost  its  life 
at  the  water. 
>arty  to  make, 
■stance  ahead, 
coffee  of  it, 


'  '■■Xl 


1 


■y^*;  ■ 


i,«.' 


m^ 


^ 


Till:;    PAUir    ON    FOOT EXTUEME   SUFFEUINQ. 


477 


reni.'irking  that  "maggots  were   more   easily   swallowed 
cooked  than  raw!" 

And  here  the  writer,  and  no  doubt,  the  reader  too,  is 
compelled  to  make  a  reflection.  Was  the  office  of  Gover- 
nor of  a  Territory  at  fifteen  hundred  dollars  a  year,  and 
Indian  agent  at  fifteen  hundred  more,  worth  a  journey  of 
over  three  thousand  miles,  chiefly  by  land,  even  allowing 
that  there  had  been  no  maggots  in  the  water?  Quien 
sabef 

Not  far  from  this  locality  our  party  came  upon  one  hun- 
dred wagons  abandoned  by  Major  Graham,  who  had  not 
been  able  to  cross  tiie  desert  with  them.  Proceeding  on- 
ward, the  riders  eventually  found  themselves  on  foot,  there 
being  only  a  few  animals  left  alive  to  transport  the  bag- 
gage that  could  not  be  abandoned.  So  great  was  their 
extremity,  that  to  quench  their  thirst  the  stomach  of  a 
mule  was  opened  to  get  at  the  moisture  it  contained.  In 
tlie  horror  and  pain  of  the  thirst-fever.  Meek  renewed 
again  the  sufferings  he  had  undergone  years  before  in  the 
deserts  inhabited  by  Diggers,  and  on  the  parched  plains 
of  the  Snake  River. 

About  the  middle  of  January  the  Oregon  Government, 
which  had  started  out  so  gaily  from  Fort  Leavenworth, 
arrived  weary,  dusty,  foot-sore,  famished,  and  suffering,  at 
William's  Ranch  on  the  Santa  Anna  River,  which  empties 
into  the  Bay  of  San  Pedro.  Here  they  were  very  kindly 
received,  and  their  wants  ministered  to. 

At  this  place  Meek  developed,  in  addition  to  his  various 
accomplishments,  a  talent  for  speculation.  While  over- 
hauling his  baggage,  the  knives  and  the  silk  which  had 
been  purchased  of  the  peddler  in  St.  Louis,  were  brought 
to  light.  No  sooner  did  the  senoritas  catch  a  glimpse  of 
the  shining  fabrics  than  they  went  into  raptures  over  them, 
after  the  fashion  of  their  sex.     Seeing  the  state  of  mind 


,n 


t   'I 


478 


SPECULATION    IN    SILKS   AND   JACKKNIVES. 


l+n       ■         I 


to  which  these  raptures,  if  unheeded,  were  likely  to  re- 
duce the  ladies  of  his  house,  Mr.  Williams  approaclied 
Meek  delicately  on  the  subject  of  purchase.  But  Meek 
in  the  first  flush  of  speculative  shrewdness  declared  that 
as  he  had  bought  the  goods  for  his  own  wife,  he  could  not 
find  it  in  his  heart  to  sell  them. 

However,  as  the  senoritas  were  likely  to  prove  inconsola- 
ble, Mr.  Williams  again  mentioned  the  desire  of  his  family 
to  be  clad  in  silk,  and  the  great  difficulty,  nay,  impossi- 
bility, of  obtaining  the  much  coveted  fabric  in  that  part 
of  the  world,  and  accompanied  his  remarks  with  an  offer 
of  ten  dollars  a  yard  for  the  lot.  At  this  magnificent  offer 
our  hero  affected  to  be  overcome  by  regard  for  the  feel- 
ings of  the  senoritas,  and  consented  to  sell  his  dollar  and 
a-half  silks  for  ten  dollars  per  yard. 

In  the  same  manner,  finding  that  knives  were  a  desira- 
ble article  in  that  country,  very  much  wanted  by  miners 
and  others,  he  sold  out  his  dozen  or  two,  for  an  ounce 
each  of  gold-dust,  netting  altogether  the  convenient  little 
profit  of  about  five  hundred  dollars.  When  Gen.  Lane 
was  infoTTard  of  the  transaction,  and  reminded  of  his  ob- 
jections to  rhe  original  purchase,  he  laughed  heartily. 

"Well,  Meek,"  said  he,   "you  were  drunk  when  you 

bought  them,  and  by I  think   you  must   have  been 

drunk  when  you  sold  them;  but  drunk  or  sober,  I  will 
own  you  can  beat  me  at  a  bargain," 

Such  bargains,  however,  became  common  enough  about 
this  time  in  California,  for  this  was  the  year  memorable  in 
California  history,  of  the  breaking  out  of  the  gold-fever, 
and  the  great  rush  to  the  mines  which  made  even  the 
commonest  things  worth  their  weight  in  gold-dust. 

Proceeding  to  Los  Angelos,  our  party,  once  more  comfort- 
ably mounted,  found  traveling  comparatively  easy.  At  this 
place  they  found  quartered  the  command  of  Maj.  Graham, 


:J,'S*- 


OUEaONIANS   AT    BAN    FRANCISCO. 


479 


whose  abandoned  wagons  had  been  passed  at  the  Iloniclhi 
on  the  Colorado  River.  The  town,  too,  was  crowded 
with  miners,  men  of  every  class,  but  chiefly  American 
adventurers,  drawn  together  from  every  quarter  of  Cali- 
fornia and  Mexico  by  the  rumor  of  the  gold  discovery  at 
Sutter's  Fort. 

On  arriving  at  San  Pedro,  a  vessel — the  Southampton, 
was  found  ready  to  sail.  She  had  on  board  a  crowd  of 
fugitives  from  Mexico,  bound  to  San  Francisco,  where  they 
hoped  to  find  repose  from  the  troubles  which  harassed 
that  revolutionary  Republic. 

At  San  Francisco,  Meek  was  surprised  to  meet  about 
two  hundred  Oregonians,  who  on  the  first  news  of  the 
gold  discovery  the  previous  autumn,  had  fled,  as  it  is  said 
men  shall  flee  on  the  day  of  judgment — leaving  the  wheat 
ungathered  in  the  fields,  the  grain  unground  in  the  mills, 
the  cattle  unherded  on  the  plains,  their  tools  and  farming 
implements  rusting  on  the  ground — everything  abandoned 
as  if  it  would  never  more  be  needed,  to  go  and  seek  the 
shining  dust,  which  is  vainly  denominated  "filthy  lucre." 
The  two  hundred  were  on  their  way  home,  having  all 
either  made  something,  or  lost  their  health  by  exposure 
so  that  they  were  obliged  to  return.  But  they  left  many 
more  in  the  mines. 

Such  were  the  tales  told  in  San  Francisco  of  the  won- 
derful fortunes  of  some  of  the  miners  that  young  Lane  be- 
came infected  with  the  universal  fever  and  declared  his 
I  intention  to  try  mining  with  the  rest.  Meek  too,  deter- 
mined to  risk  something  in  gold-seeking,  and  as  some  of 
the  teamsters  who  had  left  Fort  Leavenworth  with  the 
company,  and  had  come  as  far  as  San  Francisco,  were  very 
desirous  of  going  to  the  mines,  Meek  fitted  out  two  or 
three  with  pack-horses,  tools,  and  provisions,  to  accompany 
[young  Lane.  For  the  money  expended  in  the  outfit  he 
31 


480 


THE  GOVERNOR  AND  MARSHAL  QUARREL. 


was  to  receive  half  of  their  first  year's  profits.  The  re- 
sult of  this  venture  was  three  pickle-jars  of  gold-dust 
which  were  sent  to  him  by  the  hands  of  Nat.  Lane,  the 
following  year ;  and  which  just  about  reimbursed  him  for 
the  outlay. 

At  San  Francisco,  Gen.  Lane  found  the  U.  S.  Sloop  of 
War,  the  Si.  Mary^s;  and  Meek  insisted  that  the  Oregon 
government,  which  was  represented  in  their  persons,  had 
a  right  to  require  her  services  in  transporting  itself  to  its 
pioper  seat.  But  Lane,  whose  notions  of  economy  ex- 
tended, singularly  enough,  to  the  affairs  of  the  general 
government,  would  not  consent  to  the  needless  expendi- 
ture. Meek  was  rebellious,  and  quoted  Thornton,  by 
whom  he  was  determined  noL  lu  be  outdone  in  respect  of 
expense  for  transportation.  Lane  insisted  that  his  dignity 
did  not  require  a  government  vessel  to  convey  him  to 
Oregon.  In  short  the  new  government  was  very  muth 
divided  against  itself,  and  only  escaped  a  fall  by  Meek's 
finding  some  one,  or  some  others,  else,  on  whom  to  ^.lay 
his  pranks. 

The  first  one  was  a  Jew  peddler  who  had  gentlemen's 
clothes  to  sell.  To  him  the  Marshal  represented  himself 
as  a  United  States  Custom  officer,  and  after  frightening 
him  with  a  threat  of  confiscating  his  entire  stock,  finally 
compromised  with  the  terrified  Israelite  by  accepting  a 
suit  of  clothes  for  himself  After  enjoying  the  mortifica- 
tion of  f.pirit  which  the  loss  inflicted  on  the  Jew,  for  twen- 
ty-four hours,  he  finally  ^^aid  him  for  the  clothes,  at  the 
same  time  administering  a  lecture  upon  the  sin  and  dan- 
ger of  smuggling. 

The  party  which   had   left   Leavenworth   for  Oregon] 
nearly  six  months  before,  numbering  fifty-five,  now  num- 
bered only  seven.     Of  the  original  number  'wo  had  been  I 
killed,  and  all  the  rest  had  deserted  to  go  to  the  mines. 


t    ( 


A   SALUTE ARRIVAL   AT    OREGON    CITY. 


481 


There  remained  only  Gen.  Lane,  Meek,  Lieut.  Hawkins 
iind  riayden,  surgeon,  besides  three  soldiers.  With  this 
small  company  Gen.  Lane  went  on  board  the  Jeonette^  a 
small  vessel,  crowded  with  miners,  and  destined  for  the 
Colurabld  River.  As  the  Jeanette  dropped  down  the  Bay, 
a  salute  was  fired  from  the  St  Mary's  in  honor  of  Gen. 
Lane,  and  appropriated  to  himself  by  Marshal  Meek,  who 
sennas  to  have  delighted  in  appropriating  to  himself  ail 
the  honors  in  whatever  circumstances  he  might  be  placed ; 
the  more  especially  too,  if  such  assumption  annoyed  the 
General. 

After  a  tedious  voyage  of  eighteen  days  the  Jeanette 
arrived  m  the  Columbia  River.  From  Astoria  the  party 
took  small  boats  for  Oregon  City,  a  voyage  ol  one  hun- 
dred and  twenty  miles ;  so  that  it  was  already  the  2d  of 
March  when  they  arrived  at  that  place,  and  only  one  day 
was  left  for  the  organization  of  the  Territjiial  Govern- 
ment before  the  expiration  of  Polk's  term  of  office.  Gen. 
Lane's  economy  had  nearly  defeated  Polk  s  greet  desire.-u 

"    .\  •     ',   ',.1-     '-'J:''.    '■...■,;     '•-:■'  H>:l--^t^--,t'\ 

■;.'■'      '         .    ('-'>■■.,    t  -' ,  ' '    -,--,•..'■  .--i  ■■•"     -';',.'r-.',f\- _,■»■■■,■   ■'  "j'i  ■  H' 


'  i      ■'   ,-     i,*'f-    ;  ■-.•*'^  :    ■  •'        f-  '^' !':  '\"--.  f     .  1  ."i  '   ' 


'H  ,  •:>! '  '"i^l 


»'.       »\fl,.l  ■ -,  1,1 1. 


iff 


'   f  ■ 

.,,..:^^yj 

Mj. 

t    '^r 

■^;-.lr  t   - 

"■':  .ti','7"^rt|T 

-.    -ypr,—     ,;, 

'<i 

:^^> 

>^i-i> 

\ 

.T^n;--rr   -fit 


482 


THE  DROPPED  THREADS  OF  OUR  STORY. 


CHAPTER    XLII. 


- 

i 
1 

^       1     .     -tl 

1849.  If  this  were  a  novel  which  we  T^-^-re  writing,  we 
should  fix  upon  this  point  in  our  story  o  ''i — "And so 
they  were  married,  and  lived  together  h  tppily  ever  af- 
ter;" placing  the  Finis  directly  after  that  sentence.  For 
have  we  not  brought  Oregon  through  all  the  romantic  ad- 
ventures and  misadventures  ot  her  extraordinary  youth, 
and  ushered  her  upon  the  stage  of  action  a  promising 
young  Territory  ?  As  for  our  hero,  he  too  has  arrived  at 
the  climax  of  his  individual  glory  and  success,  a  point  at 
which  it  might  be  wise  to  leave  him. 

But  a  regard  for  the  eternal  fitness  of  things  compels 
us  to  gather  up  again  the  dropped  threads  of  sotie  por- 
tions of  our  story,  and  follow  them  to  their  pr«  '  v?,ki 
ing  up.  We  promise,  however,  to  touch  as  lig^  ;] '  " '  !>'■ 
sible  upon  the  Territorial  history  of  Oregon;  fo '  ipi 
political  record  here  becomes,  what  the  political  recuiu 
of  too  many  other  Territories  has  been,  a  history  of  dema 
gogueism.  With  this  preface  we  proceed  to  finish  our  nar. 
rative. 

On  the  2d  of  March  Gen.  Lane  ;  I'ved  at  Oregon  City, 
and  was  introduced  to  Gov.  Aberut.l-y,  by  M  ■  -hal  Meek. 
On  the  3d,  there  appeared  the  following — 

PROCLAMATION. 

In  pmsua».co  of  an  act  of  C'^siprAsg^  ^{•j>>rred  the  14th  of  Aujrust,  in  the 
year  of  oui"  Lord  1848,  establishing  a  Ter  "t  'fl  Government  in  the  Territory 
of  Oregon : 

I,  Joseph  Lane,  was,  on  the  18th  day  of  August,  in  the  year  ISiB,  appointed 


STORY. 


GOV.    LANES  PROCLAMATION. 


483 


K^f.re  writing,  we 
'b—"  And  so 
b  ippily  ever  af- 
;  sentence.  For 
the  romantic  ad- 
aordinary  youth, 
ion  a  promising 
)o  has  arrived  at 
iccess,  a  point  at 

■  things  ccmpels 
ids  of  some  yor- 
eir  pr-"  f  .?•' Tnii 
as  lig^  ;]  V  '^'- '  l»'" 
)regon;  fo '  ipi 
!  political  recuiu 
history  of  dema 
to  finish  our  nar. 

[  at  Oregon  City, 
)y  M:   'hal  Meek. 


1 4th  of  August,  in  the 
iment  in  the  Territory 


le  year  1818, 


Governor  in  and  for  the  Territory  of  Oregon.  I  have  therefore  thought  it 
proper  to  issue  chis,  my  proclamation,  making  known  that  I  have  this  day  en- 
tered upon  the  discharge  of  the  duties  of  my  office,  and  by  virtue  thereof  do 
(kfiare  the  laws  of  the  United  States  extended  over,  and  declared  to  be  in 
force  in  si  "d  Territory,  so  far  as  the  same,  or  any  portion  thereof,  may  be  ap- 
plicable. 

Given  under  my  hand  at  Oregon  City,  in  the  Territory  of  Oregon,  this  3d 
day  of  March,  Anno  Domini  1849.  Josr,PH  Lah&. 

Thus  Oregon  had  one  day,  under  Polk,  who,  take  it  all 
in  all,  had  been  a  faithful  guardian  of  her  interests. 

Shortly  after  che  appearance  of  the  proclamation  of 
Gov.  Lane,  Meek  was  sworn  into  office,  and  gave  the  re- 
quired securities.  All  the  other  Territorial  officers  pres- 
ent in  the  Territory,  or  as  fast  as  they  arrived,  took  the 
oath  of  office ;  courts  were  established,  and  the  new  gov- 
ernment moved  on.  Of  the  President 'al  appointees  who 
accepted,  were  William  T.  Bryant  of  Indiana,  Chief  Jus- 
tice 0.  C.  Pratt  of  Illinois,  and  Peter  H.  Burnett  of  Ore- 
gon, Associate  Justices  of  the  District  Court:  John  Adair 
of  Kentuct  y,  Collector  for  the  District  of  Oregon :  and 
Kintzinge  Pritchett  of  Pennsylvania,  Secretary  of  State. 

The  condition  in  which  Gov.  Lane  found  the  new  Ter- 
ritory was  not  so  sad  as  might  reasonably  be  conjectured 
from  the  fears  of  its  inhabitants  fifteen  months  previou.^. 
Intimidated  by  the  pr eh.ence  of  the  volunteers  in  the  upper 
country,  the  Indians  had  remained  quiet,  and  the  immigra- 
tion of  1848  passed  through  their  country  without  being 
disturbed  in  any  manner.  So  little  apprehension  was  felt 
concerning  an  Indian  war  at  this  time  that  men  did  not 
hesitate  to  leave  their  homes  and  families  to  go  to  the  gold 
fields  of  California. 

In  the  month  of  August,  1848,  the  Honolulu^  a  vessel 
of  one  hundred  and  fifty  tons,  owned  in  Boston,  carrying 
a  consignment  of  goods  to  a  mercantile  house  in  Portland, 
arrived  at  her  anchorage  in  the  Wallamet,  via  San  Fran- 


ca 


m 


48A 


THE    GOLD   EXCITEMENT. 


I    -I 


If  '         I 


CISCO,  California.  Captain  Newell,  almost  before  he  had 
discharged  freight,  commenced  buying  up  a  cargo  of  flour 
and  other  provisions.  But  what  excited  the  wonder  of 
the  Oregonians  was  the  fact  that  he  also  bought  up  all 
manner  of  tools  such  as  could  be  used  in  digging  or  cut- 
ting, from  a  spade  and  pickaxe,  to  a  pocket-knife.  This 
singular  proceeding  naturally  aroused  the  suspicions  of  a 
people  accustomed  to  have  something  to  suspect.  A  de- 
mand was  made  for  the  HonolidiCs  papers,  and  these  not 
being  forthcoming,  it  was  proposed  by  some  of  the  pru- 
dent ones  to  tie  her  up.  When  this  movement  was  at- 
tempted, the  secret  came  out.  Captain  Newell,  holding 
up  a  bag  of  gold-dust  before  the  astonished  eyes  of  his 
persecutors,  cried  out —     •  .  -,  ' :  ; 

"  Do  you  see  that  gold  ?       you,  I  will  depopulate 

your  country  !  I  know  where  there  is  plenty  of  this  stuff, 
and  I  am  taking  these  tools  where  it  is  to  be  found." 

This  was  in  August,  the  month  of  harvest.  So  great 
was  the  excitement  which  seized  the  people,  that  all  classes 
of  men  were  governed  by  it.  Few  persons  stopped  to 
consider  that  this  was  the  time  for  producers  to  reap  golden 
harvests  of  precious  ore,  for  the  other  yellow  harvest  of 
grain  which  was  already  ripe  and  waiting  to  be  gathered. 
Men  left  their  grain  standing,  and  took  their  teams  from 
the  reapers  to  pack  their  provisions  and  tools  to  the  mines. 

Some  men  would  have  gladly  paid  double  to  get  back 
the  spades,  shovels,  or  picks,  which  the  shrewd  Yankee 
Captain  had  purchased  from  them  a  week  previous.  All 
implements  of  this  nature  soon  commanded  fabulo  as  prices, 
and  he  was  a  lucky  man  who  had  a  supply. 

The  story  of  the  gold-fever  which  began  in  the  fall  and 
winter  of  '48,  and  raged  with  such  violence  through  '49, 
is  too  familiar  to  everybody  to  need  repeating  here.  Only 
as  it  affected  the  fortunes  of  Oregon  need  it  be  mentioned. 


SUDDEN  PROSPERITY  OF  OREGON. 


485 


Its  immediate  effect  was  to  give  an  impetus  to  business  in 
the  Territory  which  nothing  else  ever  could  have  done; 
to  furnish  a  market  for  all  sorts  of  produce,  and  employ- 
ment for  every  kind  of  industry,  to  bring  money  into  cir- 
culation in  place  of  wheat  and  beaver-skins,  and  for  a  time 
to  make  the  country  extremely  prosperous. 

One  of  the  last  acts  of  the  Provisional  Government  had 
been  to  authorize  the  weighing,  assaying,  and  coining  of 
gold — an  act  which  was  rendered  necessary  by  the  great 
amount  of  "dust"  in  circulation,  and  the  influx  of  the 
debased  South  American  coins.  An  association  of  gen- 
tlemen taking  the  matter  in  hand,  bore  all  the  expense  of 
the  dies,  machinery,  and  labor,  coining  only  about  ten 
thousand  dollars  in  the  summer  of  '49.  They  succeeded 
ill  raising  the  price  of  "  dust "  from  eleven  to  sixteen  dol- 
lars per  ounce,  and  stopping 
the  influx  of  South  Ameri- 
can coins.  The  gentlemen 
who  conferred  a  great  bene- 
fit on  Oregon,  were  Kil- 
borne,  Magruder,  Rector, 
Campbell,  and  Smith.  This  money  went  by  the  name  of 
"Beaver- money,"  owing  to  the  design  on  the  dies,  which 
referred  to  the  previous  beaver  currency. 

But  the  ultimate  effect  of  the  California  gold  discove- 
ries was  to  put  a  check  upon  the  prosperity  of  Oregon. 
The  emigration  from  the  states,  instead  of  going  to  Oregon 
as  formerly,  now  turned  off  to  California.  Men  soon  dis- 
covered the  fertile  quality  of  California  soil,  and  while  the 
majority  dug  for  gold  a  sufficient  'jumber  went  to  farming 
to  make,  together  with  the  imports  from  the  east,  almost 
a  supply  for  the  yearly  hordes  of  gold  seekers.  The  fame 
of  the  ■  California  climate,  the  fascinations  of  the  ups  and 


BEAVER-MONEY. 


486 


GILIDUAL   RELAPSE   AND   THE   CAUSE. 


w:^ 


m     I 


t 


downs  of  fortune's  wheel  in  that  country,  and  many  other 
causes,  united  to  make  California,  and  not   Oregon,  the 
object  of  interest  on  the  Pacific  coast ;  and  the  rapidity 
with  which  California  became  selt-supporting  removed  from 
Oregon  her  importance  as  a  source  of  supplies.    There- 
fore, after  a  few  years  of  rather  extraordinary  usefulness 
and  consequent  good  fortune,  the  Territory  relapsed  into 
a  purely  domestic   and   very  quiet  young  State,    This 
change  in  its  federal  status  was  not  altogether  acceptable 
to  Oregonians.     They  had  so  long  been  accustomed  to 
regard  themselves  as  the  pets  of  a  great  and  generous, 
but  rather  neglectful  Republic,  from  whose  hands  all  man- 
ner of  favors  were  to  be  of  right  demanded,  because  they 
had  sustained  for  so  long  a  time  the  character  of  good 
children,  without  any  immediate  reward — that  now  when 
a  rival  darling  sprang  into  vigorous  life  and  excessive  fa- 
vor, almost  at  once,  their  jealousy  rankled  painfully.    So 
naughty  and  disagreeable  a  passion  as  jealousy  is  its  own 
punishment,  as  the  Oregonian  of  to-day  would  do  well  to 
remember,  while  he  does  what  he  can  to  show  to  the  world 
that  his  State,  by  its  splendid  resources,  fully  justifies  all  the 
outlay  of  patriotism  and  ardor  which  distinguished  its 
early  history. 

But  to  return  to  our  mutton.  Although  Gov.  Lane 
did  not  find  an  Indian  war  on  his  hands  immediately  on 
assuming  the  duties  of  his  ofl&ce,  there  was  yet  plenty  to 
do  in  getting  the  government  organized,  appointing  offi- 
cers to  take  the  census,  ordering  elections,  and  getting  the 
run  of  Oregon  politics,  to  occupy  his  .attention  for  the 
first  three  months  of  his  administration. 

The  change  in  the  government  had  not  by  any  means 
changed  the  objects  and  aims  of  the  different  parties  in 
Oregon.  Now,  as  before,  there  was  a  Mission  party, 
strong  in  money  and  influence ;  now,  as  before,  the  term 


THE    THREE    PARTIES. 


•  ;!• 


487 


"Hudson's  Bay  man"  was  used  by  the  Mission  party  to 
bring  odium  upon  any  aspirant  to  office,  or  even  business 
success,  who,  not  being  intimidated  by  their  interdict, 
'f'litured  to  be  employed  professionally  by  Dr.  McLaugh- 
lin, or  in  any  way  to  show  regard  for  him.  As  there  were 
always  a  certain  number  independent  enough  to  act  from 
free  will  or  conviction,  there  was  in  consequence  still  a 
Hudson's  Bay  party.  Between  these  two,  as  before,  there 
stood  a  third  party,  who  added  itself  to  or  subtracted  it- 
self from  the  other  two,  as  its  purposes  and  interests 
required.  As  there  were  haters  of  Dr.  McLaughlin  in 
two  of  the  parties  it  did  not  require  a  great  amount  of 
shrewdness  to  inform  a  man  that  on  this  point  might  turn 
his  political  fortunes. 

This  discovery  was  made  very  early  after  his  arrival  in 
the  Territory  by  Gov.  Lane,  as  well  as  by  Judge  Bryant, 
and  others,  and  used  at  times  by  them  when  there  was  an 
object  to  be  gained  by  it,  although  neither  of  these  dig- 
nitaries declared  themselves  openly  as  good  haters  of  the 
Doctor. 

Dr.  McLaughlin,  on  the  settlement  of  the  boundary 
question,  seeing  that  the  London  Company  found  much 
fault  with  him  for  having  "encouraged  the  settlement  of 
Oregon  by  the  Americans,"  went  to  England  to  see  the 
Directors  and  have  the  matter  understood  between  himself 
aiul  them.  Finding  on  hearing  his  explanation,  that  while 
doing  nothing  to  encourage  settlement,  he  could  not  per- 
mit the  immigrants  of  the  first  few  years  to  suifer  after 
their  arrival,  and  that  out  of  charity  only  he  had  done 
what  was  done  for  their  relief,  the  Company  still  blamed 
him,  the  Doctor  then  said  to  the  Directors,  "  Gentlemen, 
I  will  serve  you  no  longer."  Sixty  thousand  dollars,  ex- 
pended in  helping  American  settlers  was  charged  to  his 
private  account.  This  amount  was  afterwards  remitted, 
but  the  debt  was  heavily  felt  at  the  time. 


488 


DR.    MCLAUGHLIN — NE*V    COMPLICATIONS. 


On  his  return  to  Oregon,  and  en  the  establishment  of  a 
Territorial  government,  the  Doctor  determined  to  take  out 
naturalization  papers,  and  become  an  American  citizen. 
But  no  sooner  had  the  government  been  organized  than 
new  complications  arose  in  the  Doctor's  case.  Judge 
Bryant  had  been  but  a  few  days  in  the  Territory  before  he 
purchased  from  the  Mission  Milling  Company  the  Island  in 
the  river  opposite  Oregon  City,  which  was  occupied  by 
their  mills,  but  which  formed  a  part  of  the  original  claim 
of  Dr.  McLaughlin.  Thus  the  Chief  Justice  assumed  at 
once  the,  same  attitude  towards  him  which  the  Mission  and 
the  Milling  Company  had  done ;  and  as  the  island  was 
contained  in  Judge  Bryant's  district,  and  only  two  Judges 
were  at  that  time  in  the  Territory,  the  Doctor  felt  con- 
strained to  seek  advice  from  such  Americans  as  were  his 
friends.  Although  some  believed  that  his  best  chance  of 
holding  his  original  claim,  was  to  depend  upon  his  posses- 
sory rights  under  the  treaty  of  1846,  others  counseled 
him  to  take  out  his  naturalization  papers  and  secure  him- 
self in  the  rights  of  an  American  citizen.  This  he  did  at 
last,  on  the  30th  of  May,  1849. 

We  have  spoken  in  a  previous  chapter  of  Mr.  Thurston, 
in  connection  with  the  Donation  Act,  It  is  related  of  this 
gentleman  that  when  he  left  Iowa  for  Oregon,  he  confided 
to  his  personal  friends  his  resolve  to  be  "in  Congress  or  in 
—  "  two  years  after  reaching  that  Territory.  Like  other 
ambitious  new-comers,  he  soon  discovered  what  side  to 
take  with  certain  influential  persons,  concerning  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company^  which  was  but  another  name  for  Dr. 
McLaughlin. 

Mr.  Thurston  did  not  hesitate  to  ask  the  Doctor  to  vote 
for  him,  for  delegate  to  Congress,  which,  however,  the 
Doctor  did  not  do,  as  one  of  his  friends  was  up  for  the 
same  office.     But  when  he  was  finally  elected  to  Congress, 


.'MYlIt  fW^  .J J' 


THE    NEW   DELEGATE   TO   C0.WRE8S. 


489 


fortunately  within  the  two  years  to  which  he  had  limited 
himsell— Mr.  Thurston  took  ground  which  betrayed  by 
what  influences  he  had  been  placed  in  the  coveted  position. 

Mr.  Thornton  having  returned  to  Oregon  sometime  in 
May  had  made  the  acquaintance  of  the  candidate  for  Con- 
gress, and  feeling  some  anxiety  with  regard  to  the  Land 
Bill,  which  he  had  expended  considerable  thought  and 
labor  upon,  conversed  freely  with  Mr.  Thurston  upon  the 
subject,  and  finally,  rd  his  election,  presented  him  with  a 
copy  of  his  bill ;  the  same,  with  certain  alterations,  that 
could  not  strictly  be  called  amendments,  which  afterwards 
became  the  Donation  Law. 

But  the  notable  section  of  Mr.  Thurston's  bill,  which 
finally  became  a  law,  was  that  one  which  was  intended  to 
secure  him  future  political  favors,  by  earning  him  the  grat- 
itude of  the  anti-Hudson's  Bay  party,  and  all  others  whose 
private  interests  he  subserved.  This  was  the  section 
wiiich  exempted  from  the  benefits  of  the  act  the  Oregon 
City  claim,  in  the  following  words.  "  That  there  be,  and 
hereby  is  granted  to  the  Territory  of  Oregon,  two  town- 
ships, one  north  and  one  south  of  the  Columbia  River,  to 
aid  in  establishing  a  University,  to  be  selected  by  the 
Assembly,  and  approved  by  the  Surveyor  General.  Also 
the  Oregon  City  claim,  except  those  lo.'s  sold  previous  to 
March  Uh,  1849." 

In  order  to  secure  the  passage  of  this  part  of  the  land 
bill,  Mr.  Thurston  addressed  a  letter  to  the  House  of  Rep- 
resentatives, of  which  he  was  a  member,  containing  the 
following  assertions : — that  it  was  the  Methodist  Mission 
which  first  took  the  Oregon  City  claim ;  that  they  were 
driven  from  it  by  a  fear  of  having  the  savages  of  Oregon 
let  loose  upon  them ;  that  a  number  of  citizens  of  Oregon 
had  been  successively  driven  from  it,  by  the  power  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company;  that  Dr.  McLaughlin  had  al- 


I 


400 


STORY   OF   THE   DONATION   ACT. 


I       1 


If'         I 

m-  -        I 


ready  sold  lots  to  the  amount  of  $200,000,  enongli  for  a 
foreigner  to  make  out  of  American  territory ;  and  that 
the  Doctor  had  not  taken  out  naturalization  papers,  but 
was  an  Englishman  at  heart,  and  still  identified  with  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company.  Mr.  Thurston's  letter  contained 
many  more  assertions  equally  false — but  those  just  given 
relate  more  particularly  to  the  eleventh  section,  of  the  Do- 
nation Act. 

Mr,  Thurston's  reason  for  asking  to  have  all  sales  of  lots 
made  before  the  fourth  of  March,  1849,  confirmed,  he  de- 
clared to  be  to  prevent  litigation.  Dr.  McLaughhn,  he 
said,  ought  to  be  made  to  pay  for  those  lots,  but  '"not 
wishing  to  create  any  litigation,  the  committee  concluded 
to  quiet  the  whole  matter  by  confirming  those  lots." 

He  further  stated  that  the  Doctor  had  upon  the  Oregon 
City  claim  "  a  flouring  mill,  granaries,  two  double  saw- 
mills, a  large  number  of  houses,  stores,  and  other  buildings, 
to  which  he  may  be  entitled  by  virtue  of  his  possessory 
rights  under  the  treaty  of  1846.  For  only  a  part  of  the?e 
improvements,  which  he  may  thus  hold,  he  has  been  urged 
during  the  past  year  to  take  $250,000." 

Mr.  Thurston  sees  no  harm  in  taking  this  property,  so 
valuable  in  his  estimation,  which  comprises  the  earnings 
of  a  whole  life-time  spent  in  devotion  to  business  in  an 
Indian  country,  away  from  all  that  men  commonly  esteem 
desirable,  from  the  proper  owner.  On  the  contrary  he 
makes  an  eloquent  appeal  to  the  House  to  save  this  valu- 
able estate  to  the  people  of  Oregon  wherewith  to  educate 
the  rising  generations. 

Still  further,  so  great  is  his  fear  that  some  portion  of  his 
property  may  be  left  to  the  Doctor,  he  asks  that  the  Island 
portion  of  the  claim,  which  he  confesses  is  only  a  pile  of 
rocks,  of  no  value  except  for  the  improvements  on  it,  may 
be  "  confirmed  to  George  Abernethy,  his  heirs  or  assigns;'' 


BTOllY   OF   THE   DONATION  ACT. 


491 


iissigning  as  a  reason  that  when  the  mission  was  driven 
from  Oregon  City,  it  took  refuge  on  this  pile  of  rocks, 
luul  having  built  a  mill,  afterwards  sold  it  to  Mr.  Aber- 
uetliy,  one  of  the  stockholders.  Nothing  is  said  about  the 
mill  having  been  resold  to  Judge  Bryant ;  but  Judge  Bry- 
luit  could  not  object  to  having  the  Island  confirmed  to 
liiiu  through  Mr.  Abernethy. 

And  here  we  may  as  well  sever  one  of  the  threads  in 
our  story.  When  it  became  known  that  by  an  act  of  Con- 
gress Oregon  City  was  reserved  from  the  right  of  even  an 
American  citizen  to  claim,  and  that  only  after  years  of 
waiting  would  the  title  by  possessory  right  be  settled 
either  for  or  against  him,  the  old  Doctor's  heart  was  broken. 
He  still  continued  to  reside  upon  his  claim,  but  the 
uncertainty  of  title  prevented  any  sales  of  property.  The 
ingratitude  of  those  whom  he  had  assisted  when  assistance 
was  life  itself  to  them,  their  refusals  to  pay  what  had  been 
lent  thom,  and  their  constant  calumniations,  so  bore  upon 
his  spirits  that  his  strength  failed  rapidly  under  them,  and 
for  the  last  few  years  of  his  life  he  fancied  himself  reduced 
to  poverty,  though  he  was  still  in  possession  of  his  im- 
provements. 

An  example  of  the  extent  to  which  r,ome  men  carried 
their  anti-McLaughlin  principles  may  be  fo'  r*^  in  the  fol- 
lowing story  which  was  related  to  us  by  t-i  o  gentleman 
mentioned  in  it.  The  doctor  one  day  stood  upon  the 
street  conversing  with  Mr.  Thornton,  who  had  been  his 
legal  adviser  in  some  instances,  another  gentleman  also 
being  present.  Their  conversation  was  rudely  interrupted 
by  a  fourth  individual,  who  set  upon  Mr.  Thornton  with 
every  manner  of  abuse  and  vile  epithet  for  being  seen  in 
communication  with  the  " old  Hudson's  Bay,  Jes- 
uitical rascal,"  and  much  more  to  the  same  effect.  To  this 
assault,  Thornton,  who  had  a  great  command  of  language, 


492 


DEATH    OF    Dll.    MCLAUGHLIN. 


NI 


replied  in  a  manner  which  sent  the  man  about  his  business 
Then  turning  to  the  Doctor,  he  said : 

"  Doctor,  1  will  lay  a  wager  that  man  is  one  of  your 
debtors,  who  never  intends  to  pay,  and  takes  it  out  in 
abuse." 

"  Yes,  yes,"  answered  the  Doctor,  trying  to  suppress  his 
nervousness ;  "  when  he  came  to  Oregon  he  was  naked 
and  hungry.  I  gave  him  assistance  to  the  amount  of  four 
hundred  dollars.  He  is  rich  now ;  has  land  and  herds, 
and  everything  in  abundance ;  but  he  hates  me  on  ac- 
count of  that  four  hundred  dollars.  That  is  the  way  with 
most  of  them !"      .  ,      . 

Dr.  McLaughlin  died  September,  18  nd  is  buried  in 
the  Catholic  church-yard  in  Oregon  City.  Five  years  after 
his  death  the  State  of  Oregon  restored  to  his  heirs  the 
property  which  it  had  so  long  wrongfully  withheld.  As 
for  the  demagogue  who  embittered  the  last  days  of  a  good 
man,  for  political  advancement,  he  did  not  live  to  enjoy 
his  reward.  His  health,  delicate  at  the  best,  was  very 
much  undermined  at  last  by  discovering  that  he  received 
more  blame  than  praise,  even  among  his  former  supporters, 
for  the  eleventh  section  of  the  Donation  Law.  He  be- 
came very  ill  on  his  return,  and  died  at  Acapulco,  Mexico, 
without  reaching  home. 

Very  many  persons  have  confirmed  what  his  admirer, 
Meek,  says  of  Dr.  McLaughlin,  that  he  deserved  to  be 
called  the  Father  of  Oregon. 


;  I.    n 


.f'-.-i    <■• 


'■        ■    .n  .        •>  ■  '  t       •    1    •  ■    1- 


MAGNANIMITY   OF   THE   CAYUSi]   CHIEFS. 


493 


CHAPTER    XLIIL 


1850-4.  The  Territorial  law  of  Oregon  combined  the 
olTices  of  Governor  and  Indian  Agent.  One  of  the  most 
important  acts  which  marked  Lane's  administration  was 
that  of  securing  and  punishing  ihe  murderers  of  Dr.  and 
Mrs.  Whitman.  The  Indians  of  the  Cayuse  tribe  to  whom 
the  murderers  belonged,  were  assured  that  the  only  way 
in  which  they  could  avoid  a  war  with  the  whites  was  to 
deliver  up  the  chiefs  who  had  been  engaged  in  the  massacre, 
to  be  tried  and  punished  according  to  the  laws  of  the 
whites.  Of  the  two  hundred  Indians  implicated  in  the 
massacre,  five  were  given  up  to  be  dealt  with  according  to 
law.  These  were  the  five  chiefs,  Te-lou-i-kite,  Tam-ahas, 
Klok-a-mas,  Ki-am-a-sump-hin^  and  I-sa-i-a-cha-lahis. 

These  men  might  have  made  their  escape ;  the?  e  was 
no  imperative  necessity  upon  them  to  suffer  death,  had 
they  chosen  to  flee  to  the  mountains.  But  with  that 
strange  magnanimity  which  the  savage  often  shows,  to  the 
astonishment  of  Christians,  they  resolved  to  die  for  their 
people  rather  than  by  their  flight  to  involve  them  in 
war. 

Early  in  the  summer  of  1850,  the  prisoners  were  deli  v. 
ered  up  to  Gov.  Lane,  and  brought  down  to  Oregon  City, 
where  they  were  given  into  the  keeping  of  the  marshal. 
During  their  passage  down  the  river,  and  while  they  were 
incarcerated  at  Oregon  City,  their  bearing  was  most  proud 
and  haughty.  Some  food,  more  choice  than  their  prison- 
er's fare,  being  offered  to  one  of  the  chiefs  at  a  camp  of 


''«'i' 


494 


PilOUD   BEARING    OF    THE   PRISONERS. 


iV 


i   I 


^ 


!     i 


the  guard,  in  their  transit  down  the  Columbia,  the  proud 
savage  rejected  it  with  scorn. 

''What  sort  of  heart  have  you,"  he  asked,  "that  you 
offer  food  to  me,  whose  hands  are  red  with  your  brothers 
blood?" 

And  this,  after  eleven  years  of  missionary  labor,  -was  all 
the  comprehension  the  savage  nature  knew  of  the  main 
principle  of  Christianity, — forgiveness,  or  charity  toward 
our  enemies.  .  ,    ,^^_  ^, 

At  Oregon  City,  Meek  had  many  converiiations  willi 
them.  In  all  of  these  they  save  but  one  explanation  of 
their  crime.  They  feared  that  Dr.  Whitman  intended, 
with  the  other  whites,  to  take  their  laud  from  them;  and 
they  were  told  by  Jo  Lewis,  the  half-breed,  that  the  Doc- 
tor's medicine  was  intended  to  kill  them  off  quickly,  in 
order  the  sooner  to  get  possession  of  their  country.  None 
of  them  expressed  any  sorrow  for  what  had  been  done; 
but  one  of  them,  Ki-am-a-sump-km,  declared  his  inno- 
cence to  the  last. 

In  conversations  with  others,  curious  to  "-ain  some 
knowledge  of  the  savage  moral  nature,  Te-hu-i  Jcf'te  oiien 
puzzled  these  students  of  Indian  ethics.  When  ques- 
tioned as  to  his  motive  for  allowing  himself  to  be  taken, 
Te-lou-i-kite  answered : 

"Did  not  your  missionaries  tell  us  that  Christ  died  to 
save  his  people?     So  die  we,  to  save  our  people!'" 

Notwithstanding  the  prisoners  were  pre-doomed  to 
death,  a  regular  form  of  trial  was  gone  through.  The 
Prosecuting  Attorney  for  the  Territory,  A.  Ilolbrook,  con- 
ducted the  prosecution :  Secretary  Pritchett,  Major  Run- 
nels, and  Captain  Claiborne,  the  defence.  The  fee  of- 
fered by  the  chiefs  was  fifty  head  of  horses.  Whether  it 
was  compassion,  or  a  love  of  horses  which  animated  the 


■u 


fERS. 


MEEK  S   DESCRIPTION    OF   THE   TRIAL. 


495 


mbia,  the  proud 

?ked,  "that  you 
h  your  brother's 

jy  labor,  was  all 
ew  of  the  main 
'  charity  toward 

ivensations  ■vvitli 
J  explanation  of 
itman  intended, 
rom  them;  and 
d,  that  the  Doc- 
Li  off  quickly,  in 
country.  None 
lad  been  done; 
;lared   his  inno- 

to  ""ain  some 
hlou-'i  Jc/te  often 
When  qiies- 
2lf  to  be  taken, 

".  Christ  died  to 

^eople!'' 

pre-doomed   to 

through.     The 

Ilolbrook,  con- 

tt,  Major  Run- 

).     The  fee  of- 

fcs.     Whether  it 


I  animated  the 


defence,  quite  an  effort  was  made  to  shovv  that  the  mur- 
derers were  not  guilty. 

The  presiding  Justice  was  0.  C.  Pratt — Bryant  having 
resigned.  Perhaps  we  cannot  do  better  than  to  give  the 
Marshal's  own  description  of  the  trial  and  execution, 
which  is  as  follows:  "Thar  war  a  great  many  indict- 
ments, and  a  great  many  people  in  attendance  at  this 
court.  The  Grand  Jury  found  true  bills  against  the  five 
Indians,  and  they  war  arraigned  for  trial.  Captain  Clai- 
borne led  off  for  the  defence.  He  foamed  and  ranted 
like  he  war  acting  a  play  in  some  theatre.  He  knew 
about  as  much  law  as  one  of  the  Indians  he  war  defend 
ing ;  and  his  gestures  were  so  powerful  that  he  smashed 
two  tumblers  that  the  Judge  had  ordered  to  be  filled  with 
cold  Y/ater  for  him.  After  a  time  he  gave  out  mentally 
and  physically.  Then  came  Major  Runnels,  who  made  a 
very  good  defence.  But  the  Marshal  thought  they  must 
do  better,  for  they  would  never  ride  fifty  head  of  horses 
with  them  speeches. 

Mr.  Pritcheti  closed  for  the  defence  with  a  very  able 
argument ;  for  he  war  a  man  of  brains.  But  then  followed 
Mr.  Holbrook,  for  the  prosecution,  and  he  laid  down  the 
case  so  plain  that  the  jury  were  convinced  before  they 
left  the  jury-box.  When  the  J  dge  passed  sentence  of 
death  on  them,  two  of  the  chie*'^  showed  no  terror;  but 
the  other  three  were  filled  witn  horror  and  consternation 
that  they  could  not  conceal. 

After  court  had  adjourned,  and  Gov.  Lane  war  gone 
South  on  .^ome  business  with  the  Rogue  River  Indians, 
Secretary  Pritchett  came  to  me  and  told  me  that  as  he 
war  now  acting  Governor  he  meant  to  reprieve  the  In- 
dians. Said  he  to  me,  '  Now  Meek,  I  want  you  to  liber* 
ate  them  Indians,  when  you  receive  the  order.' 


■AvM"44 


496 


THE   EXECUTION. 


( 


1  ! 


.    'Pritchett,'    said    I,   'so  far  as  Meek  is  concerned  he 
would  do  anything  for  you.' 

This  talk  pleased  him;  he  said  he 'war  glad  to  hear  it' 
and  would  go  right  off'  and  write  the  reprieve.' 

'But,'  said  I,  'Pritchett,  let  us  talk  now  like  men.  I 
have  got  in  my  pocket  the  death-warrant  of  them  Indians 
signed  by  Gov.  Lane.  The  Marshal  will  execute  them 
men,  as  certain  as  the  day  arrives.' 

Pritchett  looked  surprised,  and  remarked — 'That  war 
not  what  you  just  said,  that  you  would  do  anything  for 
ine.'  ,    .     n  . 

Said  I,  'you  were  talking  then  to  Meek, — not  to  the 
Marshal,  who  always  does  his  duty.'  At  that  he  got  mad 
and  left.  .- .  , 

When  the  3d  of  June,  the  day  of  execution,  arrived, 
Oregon  City  was  thronged  with  people  to  witness  it.    1 
brought  forth  the  five  prisoners  and  placed  them  on  a 
drop.     Here  the  chief,  who  always  declared  his  innocence, 
Ki-am-i-sump-kin^  begged  me  to  kill  him  with  my  knife,— 
for  an  Indian  fears  to  be  hanged, — but  I  soon  put  an  end 
to  his  entreaties  by  cutting  the  rope  which  held  the  drop, 
with  my  tomahawk.     As  I  said  '  The  Lord  have  mercy  on 
your  souls,'  the  trap  fell,  and  the  five  Cayuses  hung  in 
the  air.     Three  of  them  died  instantly.     The  other  two 
struggled  for  several  minutes ;  the  Little  Chief,  Tam-a-lm^ 
the  longest.     It  was  he  who  was  cruel  to  my  little  girl  at 
the  time  of  the  massacre;  so  I  just  put  my  foot  on  the 
knot  to  tighten  it,  and  he  got  quiet.     After  thirty-five 
minutes  they  were  taken  down  and  buried." 
*"     Thus  terminated  a  tragic  chapter  in  the  history  of  Ore- 
gon.    Among  the  services  which  Thurston  performed  for 
the  Territory,  was  getting  an  appropriation  of  $100,000, 
to  pay  the  expenses?  of  the  Cayuse  war.     From  the  Spring 
of  1848,  when  all  the  whites,  except  the  Catholic  mission- 
aries, were  withdrawn  from  the  upper  country,  for  a  pe- 


'».  ! 


STATE  OF  THE  UPPER  COUNTRY. 


497 


is  concerned,  he 


liod  of  several  years,  or  until  Government  had  made 
treaties  with  the  tribes  east  of  the  Cascades,  no  settlers 
were  permitted  to  take  up  land  in  Eastern  Oregon.  Dur- 
iii<T  those  years,  the  Indians,  dissatisfied  with  the  encroach- 
ments which  they  foresaw  the  whites  wo'Jd  finally  make 
upon  tlieir  countr}',  and  incited  by  ceilain  individuals  who 
had  sullered  wrongs,  or  been  punished  for  their  own  of- 
fences at  the  hands  of  the  whites,  finally  combined,  as  it 
was  supposed  from  the  extent  of  the  insurrection,  and 
Oregoi  was  involved  in  a  three  years  Indian  war,  the  his- 
tory of  which  would  fill  a  volume  of  considerable  size. 

When  Meek  returned  to  Oregon  as  marshal,  with  his 
fine  clothes  and  his  newly  acquired  social  accomplish- 
ments, he  was  greeted  with  a  cordial  acknowledgment  of 
liis  services,  as  well  as  admiration  f  r  his  improved  appear- 
ance. He  was  generally  acknowledged  to  be  the  iiiodel 
of  a  handsome  marshal,  whn  clad  in  his  half-military 
dress,  and  placed  astride  of  a  line  horso.  in  the  execution 
of  the  more  festive  duties  of  marslial  of  a  procession  ou 
some  patriotic  occasion.       J' ' 

But  no  amount  of  official  responsibility  could  ever 
change  him  from  a  wag  into  a  "grave  and  everend 
seignior."  No  place  nor  occasion  was  sacred  to  iiim  when 
the  wild  humor  was  on  him. 

At  this  satne  term  of  court,  after  the  conviction  r"  the 
Cay  use  chiefs,  there  was  a  case  before  Judge  dt,  in 
which  a  mpn  was  charged  with  selling  liquor  to  the  In- 
dians. In  these  cases  Indian  evidence  was  allowed,  but 
the  jury-room  being  up  stairs,  caused  a  good  deal  of 
annoyance  in  court ;  because  when  an  Indian  witness  was 
wanted  up  stairs,  a  dozen  or  more  who  were  not  wanted 
would  follow.  The  Judge's  bench  was  so  placed  that  it 
commanded  a  full  view  of  the  staircase  and  every  one 
passing  up  or  down  it. 
A  call  for  some  witness  to  go  before  the  jury  was  fol 


;,?  ■■       Si,!  !1    , ,, 


498 


SCENE    IN   A    COURT-ROOM. 


'  i  '  I  r. 


! 

1 

^ip^-' " 

\       ' 

3 

• 

lowed  on  this  occasion,  as  on  all  others,  by  a  general  rush 
of  the  Indians,  \  ho  were  curious  to  witness  the  proceed- 
ings. One  fat  old  squaw  had  got  part  way  up  the  stairs, 
when  the  Marshal,  full  of  wrath,  seized  her  by  a  leg  and 
dragged  her  down  flat,  at  the  same  time  holding  the  fat 


MEEK   AS    UNITED   STATES   MARSHAL. 

member  so  that  it  was  pointed  directly  toward  the  Judge. 
A  general  explosion  followed  this  pointed  action,  and  the 
Judge  grew  very  red  in  the  face. 

"Mr.  Marshal,  come  within  the  bar!"  thundered  the 
Judge. 

Meek  complied,  with  a  very  dubious  expression  of 
countenance. 

"I  must  fine  you  fifty  dollars,"  continued  the  Judge; 
"the  dignity  of  the  Court  must  be  maintained." 

When  court  had  adjourned  that  evening,  the  Judge 
and  the  Marshal  were  walking  toward  their  respective 
lodgings.     Said  Meek  to  his  Honor :        ^h\':, 


JUDGE    NKLSON    AND    THE    CAllPENTEllS. 


499 


ard  the  Judge, 
action,  and  the 


thundered  the 


"Why  dif^  you  fine  me  so  heavily  to-day?"  "^ 

"  I  must  do  .L,"  returned  the  Judge.  "  I  must  keep  up 
the  dignity  of  the  Court ;  I  must  do  it,  if  I  pay  the  fines 
myself."  "     '       '      ...,;,;.. 

"And  you  must  pay  all  the  fines  you  lay  on  the  marshal, 
of  course,"  answered  Meek. 

"Very  well,"  said  the  Judge;   "I  shall  do  so." 

"All  right,  Judge.  As  I  am  the  proper  disbursing 
officer,  you  can  pay  that  fifty  dollars  to  me — and  I'll  take 
it  now."  >;:V;7:-: 

At  this  view^  of  the  case,  his  Honor  was  staggered  for 
one  moment,  and  could  only  swing  his  cane  and  laugh 
faintly.     After  a  little  reflection,  he  said  : 

"  Marshal,  when  court  is  called  to-morrow,  I  shall  remit 
vour  fine ;  but  don't  you  let  me  have  occasion  to  fine  you 


agani 


I" 


After  the  removal  of  the  capital  to  Salem,  in  1852, 
court  was  held  in  a  new  building,  on  which  the  carpenters 
were  still  at  work.  Judge  Nelson,  then  presiding,  was 
much  put  out  by  the  noise  of  hammers,  and  sent  the 
marshal  more  than  once,  to  request  the  men  to  suspend 
their  work  during  those  hours  when  court  was  in  session, 
but  all  to  no  purpose.  Finally,  when  his  forbearance  was 
quite  exhausted,  he  appealed  to  the  marshal  for  advice. 

"What  shall  I  do,  Meek,"  said  he,  "to  stop  that  in- 
fernal noise?" 

"Put  the  workmen  on  the  Grand  Jury,"  replied  Meek, 

"  Summon  them  instantly !"  returned  the  Judge.  They 
were  summoned,  and  quiet  secured  for  that  terra. 

At  this  same  term  of  court,  a  great  many  of  the  foreign 
born  settlers  appeared,  to  file  their  intention  of  becoming 
American  citizens,  in  order  to  secure  the  benefits  of  the 
Donation  Law.  Meek  was  retained  as  a  witness,  to  swear 
to  their  qualifications,  one  of  which  was,  that  they  were 


n-.-j 


500 


THE  OREGON  COURT  ON  AN  EXCURSION. 


I   I 


I   I 


possessed  of  good  moral  characters.  The  first  day  there 
were  about  two  hundred  who  made  declarations,  Meek 
witnessing  for  most  of  them.  On  the  day  following,  he 
declined  serving  any  longer. 

"What  now?"  inquired  the  Judge;  "you  made  no 
objections  yesterday." 

"Very  true,"  replied  Meek;  "and  two  hundred  lies 
are  enough  for  me.  I  swore  that  all  those  mountain-men 
were  of  'good  moral  character,'  and  I  never  knew  a 
mountain-man  of  that  description  in  my  life  !  Let  Newell 
take  the  job  for  to-day." 

The  "job"  was  turned  over  to  Newell;  but  whether 
the  second  lot  was  better  than  the  first,  has  never  trans- 
pired. 

During  Lane's  administration,  there  was  a  murder  com- 
mitted by  a  party  of  Indians  at  the  Sound,  on  the  person 
of  a  Mr.  Wallace.  Owing  to  the  sparse  settlement  of  the 
country.  Governor  Lane  adopted  the  original  measure  of 
exporting  not  only  the  officers  of  the  court,  but  the  jury 
also,  to  the  Sound  district.  Meek  was  ordered  to  find 
transportation  for  the  court  in  toto,  jury  and  all.  Boats 
were  hired  and  provisioned  to  take  the  party  to  the 
Cowelitz  Landing,  and  from  thence  to  Fort  Steilacoom, 
horses  were  hired  for  the  land  transportation. 

The  Indians  accused  were  five  in  number — two  chiefs 
and  three  slaves.  The  Grand  Jury  found  a  true  bill 
against  the  two  chiefs,  and  let  the  slaves  go.  So  few 
were  the  inhabitants  of  those  parts,  that  the  marshal  was 
obliged  to  take  a  part  of  the  grand  jury  to  serve  on  the 
petite  jury.  The  form  of  a  trial  was  gone  through  with, 
the  Judge  delivered  his  charge,  and  the  jury  retired. 

It  was  just  after  night-fall  when  these  worthies  betook 
themselves  to  the  jury-room.  One  of  them  curled  him- 
self up  in  a  corner  of  the  room,  with  the  injunction  to 


-  ■■^TT.'J -T^i*  ■^I'rf.'ir; 


THE    CHIEF  S   WIFE. 


501 


the  others  to  "  wake  him  up  when  they  got  ready  to  hang 

ihein    rascals."     The  rest  of  the  party  spent  four 

or  five  hours  betting  against  monte,  when,  being  sleepy 
also,  they  waked  up  their  associate,  spent  about  ten  min- 
utes in  arguing  their  convictions,  and  returned  a  verdict 
of  "guilty  of  murder  in  the  first  degree." 

The  Indians  were  sentenced  to  be  hung  at  noon  on  the 
following  day,  and  the  marshal  was  at  work  early  in  the 
morning  preparing  a  gallows.  A  rope  was  procured 
from  a  ship  lying  in  the  sound.  At  half-past  eleven 
o'clock,  guarded  by  a  company  of  artillery  from  the  fort, 
the  miserable  savages  were  marched  forth  to  die.  A 
large  number  of  Indians  were  collected  to  witness  the 
execution ;  and  to  prevent  any  attempt  at  rescue.  Captain 
Hill's  artillery  formed  a  ring  around  the  marshal  and  his 
prisoners.  The  execution  was  interrupted  or  delayed  for 
some  moments,  on  account  of  the  frantic  behavior  of  an 
Indian  woman,  wife  of  one  of  the  chiefs,  whose  entreaties 
for  the  life  of  her  husband  were  very  affecting.  Having 
exhausted  all  her  eloquence  in  an  appeal  to  the  nobler 
feelings  of  the  man,  she  finally  promised  to  leave  her 
husband  and  become  his  wife,  if  he,  the  marshal,  would 
spare  her  lord  and  chief.  cr;     ^,.!  ^^ 

She  was  carried  forcibly  out  of  the  ring,  and  the  hang- 
ing took  place.  When  the  bodies  were  taken  down, 
Meek  spoke  to  the  woman,  telling  her  that  now  she  could 
have  her  husband ;  but  she  only  sullenly  replied,  "  You 
have  killed  him,  and  you  may  bury  him." 

This  excursion  of  the  Oregon  court  footed  up  a  sum  of 
about  $4,000,  of  which  the  marshal  paid  $1,000  out  of 
his  own  pocket.  When,  in  the  following  year.  Lane  was 
sent  to  Congress,  Meek  urged  him  to  ask  for  an  appropri- 
ation to  pay  up  the  debt.     Lane  made  no  efibrt  to  do  so, 


502 


LANES  CAREER  IN  OREGON. 


probably  because  lie  did  not  care  to  liuvc  the  illegality  of 
the  proceeding  commented  upon. 

Lane's  career  in  Oregon,  before  the  breaking  out  of  the 
rebellion,  the  betrayal  of  his  secession  proclivities,  and 
supposed  actual  conspiracy  against  the  Government,  was 
that  of  a  successful  politician.     Having  been  appointed 
so  near  the  close  of  Polk's  administration,  he  was  sue- 
ceeded,  on  the  coming  into  office  of  General  Taylor,  by 
General  John  P.  Gaines,  who  arrived  in  Oregon  in  xiugust, 
1850.     In  1851,   General  Lane  was  elected  delegate  to 
Congress,  and  returned  to  Oregon  as  Governor,  by  Frank- 
lin Pierce,  in  1853.     He  was  appointed  in  March,  arrived 
at  Salem  May   16th,  resigned  the  19th,  was  elected  to 
Congress  July  7th,  returning  again  to  Oregon,  where  he 
at  present  resides,  on  the  expiration  of  his  terra.    His 
mileage  alone  amounted  to  $10,000,  besides  the  expenses 
of  his  first  overland  journey.     John  W.  Davis  was  next 
appointed  Governor,  by  President  Pierce.     He  arrived  in 
Salem  April  1st,  1854,  and  resigned  in  August.     A  trip 
to  Oregon,  with  the  mileage,  appeared  to  be  quite  the 
fashion  of  territorial  times. 


{'. 


i  i 


!             ( 

■    [ 

:■      !  '1 

■     i- 

■ 

] 

1 

f                I 

L 

i 

! 

•  V,    '  ^.fV '{')<■■   ,.'■■  ■  ■  ■ 

-  "'r":''0.:    Off 

'.      '  '■  a  ?j  L. 

.     .     ^  f»    ■... 


-r-i      „■!:;! 


*    1-  .. 


iqq?.;!--    vi^Mfff^i 


~f  '•'' 


MEEK   AS   UNITED   STATES   MAltSlIAL. 


503 


CHAPTER    XLIV. 

While  Meek  was  in  Washington,  he  had  been  dubbed 
with  the  title  of  Colonel,  which  title  he  still  bears,  though 
during  the  Indian  war  of  1855-56,  it  was  alternated  with 
that  of  Major,  During  his  marshalship  he  was  fond  of 
showing  off  his  titles  and  authority  to  the  discomfiture  of 
that  class  of  people  who  had  ''  put  on  airs "  with  him 
in  former  days,  when  he  was  in  his  transition  stage  from 
a  trapper  to  a  United  States  Marshal. 

While  Pratt  was  Judge  of  the  District  Court,  a  kidnap- 
ing case  came  before  him.  The  writ  of  habeas  corpus 
having  been  disregarded  by  the  Captain  of  the  Melvin^ 
who  was  implicated  in  the  business.  Meek  was  sent  to 
arrest  him,  and  also  the  first  mate.  Five  of  the  Melviii's 
sailors  were  ordered  to  be  summoned  as  witnesses,  at  the 
same  time. 

Meek  went  on  board  with  his  summons,  marched  for- 
ward, and  called  out  the  names  of  the  men.  Every  man 
came  up  as  he  was  summoned.  When  they  were  together, 
Meek  ordered  a  boat  lowered  for  their  conveyance  to 
Oregon  City.  The  men  started  to  obey,  when  the  Cap- 
tain interfered,  saying  that  the  boat  should  not  be  taken 
for  such  a  purpose,  as  it  belonged  to  him. 

"  That  is  of  no  consequence  at  all,"  answered  the  smiling 
marshal.  "  It  is  a  very  good  boat,  and  will  suit  our  pur- 
pose very  well.     Lower  away,  men  ■" 

Th.}  men  quickly  dropped  the  boat.     As  it  fell,  they 


504 


THE    CAPTAIN    OF    THE    MELVIN. 


were  ordered  to  man  it.  When  they  were  at  the  oars 
the  mate  was  then  invited  to  take  a  seat  in  it,  wliicli  he 
did,  after  a  moment's  hesitation,  and  glaneing  at  his  supe- 
rior officer.  Meek  then  turned  to  the  Captain,  and  ex- 
tended the  same  invitation  to  him.  But  he  was  reluctant 
to  accept  the  courtesy,  blustering  considerably,  and  de- 
claring his  intention  to  remain  where  he  was.  Meek 
slowly  drew  his  revolver,  all  the  time  cool  and  smiling. 

"  I  don't  like  having  to  urge  a  gentleman  too  hard," 
he  said,  in  a  meaning  tone  ;  *'  but  thar  is  an  argument 
that  few  men  ever  resist.     Take  a  seat.  Captain." 

The  Captain  took  a  seat ;  the  idlers  on  shore  cheered 
for  "Joe  Meek" — which  was,  after  all,  his  most  familiar 
title  ;  the  Captain  and  mate  went  to  Oregon  City,  and 
were  fined  respectively  $500  and  $300  ;  the  men  took 
advantage  of  being  on  shore  to  desert ;  and  altogether, 
the  master  of  the  Melvin  felt  himself  badly  used. 

About  the  same  time  news  was  received  that  a  British 
vessel  was  unloading  goods  for  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany, somewhere  on  Puget  Sound.  Under  the  new  order 
of  aifairs  in  Oregon,  this  was  smuggling.  Delighted  with 
an  opportunity  of  doing  the  United  States  a  service,  and 
the  British  traders  an  ill  turn.  Marshal  Meek  immediately 
summoned  a  iwsse  of  men  and  started  for  the  Sound.  On 
his  way  he  learned  the  name  of  the  vessel  and  Captain, 
and  recognized  them  as  having  been  in  the  Columbia 
River  some  years  before.  On  that  occasion  the  Captain 
had  ordered  Meek  ashore,  when,  led  by  his  curiosity  and 
general  love  of  novelty,  he  had  paid  a  visit  to  this  vessel. 
This  information  v7as  "  nuts"  to  the  marshal,  who  believed 
that  "a  turn  about  was  fair  play." 

With  great '  dispatch  and  secrecy  he  arrived  entirely 
unexpected  at  the  point  where  the  vessel  was  lying,  and 
proceeded  to  board  her  without  loss  of  time.     The  Cap- 


AIIUEST    OF    A    BRITISH    SMUGGLER. 


505 


'  I'IBIV  .    Vifi 


Captain,  and  ex- 


tain  and  ofBcors  were  taken  by  snrpriso  and  wore  all 
u^'luist  at  tliis  unlookod  for  appearance.  But  after  the 
iiirit  moment  of  agitation  was  over,  the  Captain  recognized 
Meek,  ho  being  a  man  not  likely  to  bo  forgotten,  and 
ihiiikingto  turn  this  circumstance  to  advantage,  approach- 
ed liini  with  the  blandest  of  smiles  and  the  most  cordial 
luiunier,  saying  with  forced  frankness — 

"  I  am  sure  I  have  had  the  i)lcasure  of  meeting  you  be- 
fore. You  must  have  been  at  Vancouver  when  my  ves- 
sel was  in  the  river,  seven  or  eight  years  ago.  I  am  very 
li;i})py  to  have  met  with  you  again."  •        ' 

"Thar  is  some  truth  in  that  remark  of  yours,  Captain," 
replied  Meek,  eyeing  him  with  lofty  scorn;  "you  did 
meet  me  at  Vancouver  several  years  ago.  But  I  was 
nothing  but  '  Joe  Meek  '  at  that  time,  and  you  ordered  me 
ashore.  Circumstances  are  changed  since  then.  I  am 
now  Colonel  Joseph  L.  Meek,  United  States  Marshal  for 
Oregon  Territory ;  and  you  sir,  are  only  a  smug- 
gler!    Go  ashore,  sir!" 

The  Captain  saw  the  point  of  that  concluding  '^  go 
asliorc,  sir !"  and  obeyed  with  quite  as  bad  a  grace  as  '  Joe 
Meek '  had  done  in  the  first  instance. 

The  vessel  was  confiscated  and  sold,  netting  to  the  Gov- 
ernment about  $40,000,  above  expenses.  This  money, 
which  fell  into  bad  hands,  failed  to  be  accounted  for. 
Nobody  suspected  the  integrity  of  the  marshal,  but  most 
persons  suspected  that  ho  placed  too  much  confidence  in 
tlie  District  Attorney,  who  had  charge  of  his  accounts. 
On  some  one  asking  him,  a  short  time  after,  what  had  be- 
come of  the  money  from  the  sale  of  the  smuggler,  he 
seemed  struck  with  a  sudden  surprise: 

'^Why,"  said  he,  looking  astonished  at  the  question, 
"tliar  was  barly  enough  for  the  officers  of  the  court!" 

This  answer,  given  as  it  was,  with  such  apparent  simplic- 


I 


500 


MISPLACED   CONFIDENCE   AND    THE    RESULT. 


ity,   1)cciime  a  popular  joke ;  and  "  barly   enough"  \v(yj 
quoted  on  all  occasions.  ■    n.  m,  i. 

The  truth  was,  that  there  was  a  serious  deficiency  in 
Meck's  account  with  the  Goverinncnt,  resulting  entirely 
from  his  want  of  confidence  in  his  own  literary  accom- 
jjlishments,  which  led  him  to  trust  all  his  con  cppondena' 
and  his  accounts  to  the  hands  of  a  man  whose  talents  were 
more  eminent  than  his  sense  of  honor.  The  result  of  this 
misplaced  confidence  was  a  loss  to  the  Government,  and 
to  himself,  whom  the  Government  held  accountable.  Con- 
trarv  to  the  general  rule  of  disbursing  officers,  ilie  office 
made  him  poor  instead  of  rich ;  and  when  on  the  incom- 
ing of  the  Pierce  administration  he  suffered  dt.npitation 
along  with  the  other  Territorial  officers,  he  Wa.^  lorced  to 
retire  upon  his  farm  on  the  Tualatin  Plains,  and  become  a 
rather  indifferent  tiller  of  the  earth.       ^  ^'  -        .iuir.  %,(. 

The  breaking  out  of  the  Indian  war  of  1855-6,  was 
preceded  by  a  long  period  of  uneasiness  among  the  Indi- 
ans generally.  The  large  emigration  which  crossed  the 
plains  every  year  for  California  and  Oregon  was  one  cause 
of  the  disturbance ;  not  only  by  exciting  their  fears  for 
the  possession  of  their  lands,  but  by  the  temptation  which 
was  offered  them  to  take  toll  of  the  travelers.  Difficulties 
occurred  at  first  between  the  emigrants  and  Indians  con- 
cerning stolen  property.  These  quarrels  were  followed, 
probably  the  subsequent  year,  by  outrages  and  murder 
on  the  part  of  the  Indians,  and  retaliation  on  the  parr  of 
volunteer  soldiers  from  Oregon.  When  once  this  system 
of  outrage  and  retaliation  on  either  side,  was  begun,  there 
was  an  end  of  security,  and  war  followed  as  an  inevitable 
consequence.  Very  horrible  indeed  were  the  acts  per- 
petrated by  the  Indians  upon  the  emigrants  to  Oregon, 
during  the  years  from  1852  to  1858. 
.     But  when  at  last  the  call  to  arms  was  made  in  Oregon, 


INOTAX    DI8TUUBANCES — THE    AGENT    MUIIDEUED. 


507 


y   enough"  was 


lade  in  Oregon, 


it  ^as  iiH  o[)portunity  -  )Ug]it,  and  not  an  jiltornativo 
forced  u[)<jn  thuin,  by  tlio  politicians  of  that  Territory. 
The  occasion  was  simply  tiiis.  A  party  of  hiwless  wretclied 
from  tiio  Sound  Country,  passing  over  the  Cascade  Moun- 
tains into  the  Yakima  Valley,  on  their  way  to  the  Upper 
('oliiinhia  mines,  found  some  Yakima  women  digging  roots 
ill  a  lonely  place,  and  abused  them.  The  women  fled  to 
thoir  village  and  told  the  chiefs  of  the  outrage ;  and  a  party 
followed  the  guilty  whites  and  killed  several  of  them  in  u 

light. 

Mr.  Bolin,  the  Indian  sub-agent  for  Washington  went 
to  the  Yakima  village,  and  instead  of  judging  of  the  case 
iinpiu'tially,  made  use  of  threats  in  the  nanie  of  the  United 
Slates  Government,  saying  that  an  army  should  be  sent  to 
pmiisii  them  for  killing  his  people.  On  his  return  home, 
Mr,  IJoiin  was  followed  and  murdered. 

Tiie  murder  of  an  Indian  agent  was  an  act  which  could 
not  be  overlooked.  Very  properly,  the  case  should  have 
been  taken  notice  of  in  a  manner  to  convince  the  Indians 
that  murder  must  be  punished.  But,  tempted  by  an  op- 
portunity for  gain,  and  encouraged  by  the  somewhat  rea- 
sonable fears  of  the  white  population  of  Washington  and 
Oregon,  Governor  G.  L.  Curry,  of  the  latter,  at  once  pro- 
claimed war,  and  issued  a  call  for  volunteers,  without  wait- 
ing for  the  sanction  or  assistance  of  the  general  Govern- 
ment. The  moment  this  was  done,  it  was  too  late  to  re- 
tract. It  was  as  if  a  torch  had  been  applied  to  a  field  of 
dry  grass.  So  simultaneously  did  the  Indians  from  Puget 
Sound  to  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  from  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains to  the  southern  boundary  of  Oregon  send  forth  the 
war-whoop,  that  there  was  much  justification  for  the  belief 
which  agitated  the  people,  that  a  combination  among  the 
Indians  had  been  secretly  agreed  to,  and  that  the  whites 
were  all  to  be  exterminated.  t 


''.iiil'!W>'i(*C?**'^'iiK:^¥^'l*-:.'.: 


508 


THE    INDIAN    WAR    OF    1855-0.       10 


Volunteer  companies  were  already  raised  and  sent  into 
the  Indian  country,  when  Brevet  Major  G.  0.  Haller  ar- 
rived at  Vancouver,  now  a  [)art  of  the  United  States.  He 
had  been  as  far  east  as  Fort  Boise  to  protect  the  incoraino- 
immigration ;  and  finding  on  his  return  that  there  was  an 
Indian  war  on  hand,  proceeded  at  once  to  the  Yakima 
country  v,  ith  his  small  force  of  one  hundred  men,  only 
fifty  of  whom  were  mounted.  Much  solicitude  was  felt 
for  the  result  of  the  nrst  engagement,  every  one  knowintf 
that  if  the  Indu.ns  were  at  first  successful,  the  war  would 
be  long  and  bloody. 

Major  Haller  was  defeated  wiih  considerable  loss,  and 
notwithstanding  slight  reinforcements,  from  Fort  Vancou- 
ver, only  succeeded  in  getting  safely  out  of  the  country. 
Mfijor  Haines,  the  commanding  ofPcer  at  Vancouver,  seeing 
the  direction  of  events,  made  a  requisition  upon  Governor 
Curry  for  -four  of  his  volunteer  companies  to  go  into  the 
field.  Then  followed  applications  to  Major  llainf^s  for 
horses  and  arms  lo  equip  the  volunteers ;  but  the  horses 
at  the  Fort  being  unlit  for  service,  and  the  Major  unau- 
thorized to  equip  volunteer  troops,  there  resulted  only 
misunderstandings  and  delays.  When  General  Wool,  at 
the  head  of  the  Deparrment  in  Sail  Francisco,  was  con- 
sulted, he  also  was  without  authority  to  employ  or  receive 
the  voluntc  s;  and  when  the  volunteers,  who  at  length 
armed  and  equipped  themselves,  came  to  go  into  the  field 
with  the  regulars,  they  couid  not  agree  as  to  the  mode  of 
fighting  Indians ;  so  that  with  one  thing  and  another,  the 
war  became  an  exciting  topic  for  more  reasons  tiian  be- 
cause the  w^hi'.es  were  afraid  of  the  Indians.  As  for  Gen- 
e^al  Wool,  he  was  in  great  disfavor  both  in  Oregon  and 
Washington  because  he  did  not  believe  there  ever  had 
existed  the  necessity  for,  a  war ;  and  that  therefore  he 
bestowed  what  assistance  was  at  his  command  very  grudg- 


«i 


OFFlGEllS   OF    THE   WAR — VOLUNTEEllS, 


509 


iii<vly.  General  Wool,  it  was  said,  was  jealous  of  the  vol- 
unteers ;  and  the  volunteers  certainly  cared  little  for  the 
opinion  of  General  Wool. 

However  all  that  may  be,  Col.  Meek  gives  it  as  his  opin- 
ion that  the  okl  General  was  right.  "  It  makes  me  think," 
ml  he,  "  of  a  bear-light  1  once  saw  in  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, where  a  huge  old  grizzly  was  surrounded  by  a  pack 
of  ten  or  twelve  dogs,  all  snapping  at  and  worrying  him. 
It  made  hira  powerful  mad,  and  every  now  and  then  he 
woukl  make  a  claw  at  one  of  them  that  silenced  him  at 
once. 

The  Indian  war  in  Oregon  gave  practice  to  a  number  of 
officers,  since  become  famous,  most  prominent  among 
whom,  is  Sheridan,  who  served  in  Oregon  as  a  Tiieutenant. 
Grant  himself,  was  at  one  time  a  Captain  on  that  frontier. 
Col.  Wright,  afterwards  Gen.  Wright,  succeeded  Major 
Raines  at  Vancouver,  and  conducted  the  war  through  its 
most  active  period.  During  a  period  of  three  years  there 
were  troops  constantly  occupied  in  trying  to  subdue  the 
Indians  in  one  quarter  or  another. 

As  for  the  volunteers  they  fared  badly.  On  the  first 
call  to  arms  the  people  responded  liberally.  The  proposi- 
tion which  the  Governor  made  for  their  equipment  was 
accepted,  and  they  turned  in  their  property  at  a  certain 
valuation.  When  the  war  was  over  and  the  property  sold, 
the  men  who  had  turned  it  in  could  not  purchase  it  with- 
ont  paying  more  for  it  in  gold  and  silver  than  it  was  val- 
ued at  when  it  was  placed  in  the  hands  of  the  Quarter- 
master. It  was  sold,  however,  and  the  money  enjoyed  by 
the  shrewd  political  speculators,  who  thought  an  Indian 
war  a  very  good  investment.    " 

Meek  was  one  of  the  first  to  volunteer,  and  went  as  a 
private  in  Company  A.  On  arriving  at  the  Dalles  he  was 
detailed  for  special   service   by  Col.  J.  W.  Nesmith,  and 


l 


510 


MAJOR   MEEK   AS  A   VOLUNTEER. 


i 

t 

1 

^    i 

'     '                             '  t 
i 

i   ■ 


sent  out  as  pilot  or  messenger,  whenever  any  such  duty 
was  required.  He  tjrs  finally  placed  on  Nesmith's  staff 
and  given  the  title  of  Major.  In  this  capacity,  as  iu  every 
other,  ho  was  still  the  same  alert  and  willing  individual 
tiiat  we  have  always  seen  him,  and  not  a  whit  less  inclined 
to  be  merry  when  an  opportunity  offered. 

While  the  army  was  in  the  Yakima  country,  it  being  an 
enemy's  country,  and  provisions  scarce,  the  troops  some- 
times were  in  want  of  rations.  But  Meek  had  not  fovi^ot- 
ten  his  mountain  craft,  and  always  had  something  to  eat, 
if  anybody  did.  One  evening  he  had  killed  a  fat  cow 
which  he  had  discovered  astray,  and  was  proceeding  to 
roast  a  twenty-pound  piece  before  his  camp-fire,  when  a 
number  of  the  officers  called  on  him.  The  sight  and  sa- 
vory smell  of  the  beef  was  very  grateful  to  them. 

"Major  Meek,"  said  they  in  a  breath,  "we  will  sup  with 
you  to-night."  i. 

"I  am  very  sorry,  gentlemen,  to  decline  the  honor," 
returned  Meek  with  a  repetition  of  the  innocent  surprise 
for  which  ho  had  so  often  been  laughed  at,  "but  lam 
very  hungry,  and  thar  is  barly  enough  beef  for  one 
man!" 

On  hearing  this  sober  assertion,  those  who  had  heard 
the  story  laughed,  but  th.o  rest  looked  rather  aggrieved. 
However,  the  Major  continued  his  cooking,  and  when  the 
beef  was  done  to  a  turn,  he  invited  his  visitors  to  the 
feast,  and  the  evening  passed  merrily  with  jests  and  camp 
stories. 

After  the  army  went  into  winter-quarters,  Nesmith  hav- 
ing resigned,  T.  R.  Cornelius  was  elected  Colonel.  One 
of  his  orders  prohibited  firing  in  camp,  an  order  which  as 
a  good  mountaineer  the  Major  should  ha\"e  remembered. 
But  having  been  instructed  to  proceed  to  Salem  without 
delay,  as  bearer  of  dispatches,  the  Major  committed  the 


"marking  time." 


511 


ciTor  of  firing  his  gun  to  see  if  it  was  in  good  condition 
for  a  trip  through  the  enemy's  country.  Shortly  after  he 
received  a  message  from  his  Colonel  requesting  him  to 
repair  to  his  tent.  The  Colonel  received  him  politely,  and 
invited  him  to  breakftist  with  him.  The  aroma  of  coffee 
made  this  invitation  peculiarly  acceptable — for  luxuries 
were  scarce  in  camp — and  the  breakfast  proceeded  for 
some  time  very  agreeably.  When  Meek  had  breakfasted, 
Colonel  Cornelius  took  occasion  to  inquire  if  the  Major 
kd  not  heard  hia  order  against,  firing  in  camp.  "  Yes," 
said  Meek.  "Then,"  said  the  Colonel,  "I  shall  be 
obliged  to  make  an  example  of  you." 

While  Meek  stood  aghast  at  the  idea  of  j  /unishment,  a 
guard  appeared  at  the  door  of  the  tent,  and  he  heard 
what  his  punishment  was  to  be,  "  Mark  time  for  twenty 
minutes  in  the  presence  of  the  whole  regiment." 

"When  the  command  "forward!  was  given,"  says  Meek, 
"you  might  have  seen  somebody  step  off  lively,  the  offi- 
cer counting  it  off,  'left,  left.*  But  some  of  the  regiment 
grumbled  more  about  it  than  I  did.  I  just  got  my  horse 
and  my  dispatches  and  left  for  the  lower  country,  and 
when  I  returned  I  asked  for  my  discharge,  and  got  it." 

And  here  ends  the  career  of  our  hero  as  a  public  man. 
The  history  of  the  young  State,  of  which  he  is  so  old  a 
pioneer  furnishes  ample  material  for  an  interesting  volume, 
and  will  sometime  be  written  by  an  abler  than  our  sketchy 
pen.  One  thing  only  it  occurs  to  us  to  state  in  connec- 
tion with  it,  that  while  Fiany  Northern  men  went,  as  Gen. 
Lane  did,  into  the  rebellion  against  the  Government,  our 
noliler  Virginian  was  ever  sternly  loyal. 

The  chief  excitement  of  Col.  Meek's  life  at  present,  is 

in  his  skirmishes  with  the  Nazerene  and  other  preachers 

in  his  neighborhood.     They  seem  not  to  bo  able  to  see 

him  treading  so  gently  the  downhill  of  life,  when  they 

33 


i.'^'. 


512 


END  OF  MEEK  S  PUBLIC  CAREEU. 


#, 


^ 


M' 


fear  he  may  "  go  to  the  pit "  prepared  for  mountain-uien. 
In  this  state  of  mind  they  preach  at  him  on  every  possible 
occasion,  whether  suitable  or  not,  and  usually  he  takes  it 
f  pleasantly  enough.  But  when  their  attacks  become  too 
■  personal,  he  does  as  did  the  bear  to  whom  he  likened  Gen, 
Wool,  he  "hits  one  a  claw  that  silences  him." 

Being  very  much  annoyed  on  one  occasion,  not  very 
long  since,  by  the  stupid  and  vulgar  L^peech  of  a 
*' preacher  "  whom  he  complimented  by  going  to  hear,  he 
deliberately  marched  up  to  the  preacher's  desk,  took  the 
frightened  little  orator  on  his  hip,  and  carried  him  out  of 
the  house,  to  the  mingled  horror,  amazement,  and  amuse- 
ment of  the  congregation.  ."» 

We  think  that  a  man  who  at  fifty-eight  is  able  to  per- 
form such  a  feat,  is  capable  of  achieving  fresh  laurels,  and 
need  not  retire  upon  those  he  has  won. 


...  ^       I  ■ 


;'t'ii-i: 


.\ 


I 
,i 


it"' 


« !    ' 


t; 


^v-'f    ;.yii>'M- 


:-;,.-f.  j,^v) '<,      ijjl»j^7;jj,; 


-    ^  ^■-;»^'  '.'"I'r^-"    (?M^>I  f>  A  t'iij 


THE   NORTHERN   PACIFIC   RAILROAD. 

CHAPTER    XLV. 


513 


14 


It  was  no  part  of  the  original  intention  of  the  author 
of  the  foregoing  narrative  to  extend  the  work  beyond 
the  personal  adventures  of  one  man,  and  such  portions 
of  collateral,  history  as  were  necessary  to  a  perfect  under- 
standing of  the  times  and  events  spoken  of  But  since 
the  great  interest  which  the  public  have  taken  in  the 
opening  of  the  first  Pacific  Railroad  has  become  apparent, 
it  has  been  deemed  expedient  to  subjoin  some  facts  con- 
cerning the  Western  Division  of  the  Northern  Pacific  Rail- 
road,  now  in  contemplation,  and  to  become  a  reality, 
probably,  within  an  early  day. 

The  Northern  Pacific  Road  will  have  its  eastern  end 
somewhere  on  Lake  Superior,  and  its  western  terminus  at 
a  point  on  Puget's  Sound  not  yet  determined.  As  that 
portion  of  the  road  lying  west  of  Fort  Union,  on  the 
Missouri  River,  traverses  much  of  the  country  spoken  of 
in  the  adventures  of  the  fur-traders,  as  well  as  all  the 
northern  part  of  what  was  once  the  Oregon  Territory, 
whose  early  history  we  have  already  given,  it  will  not  be 
found  altogether  irrelevant  to  enter  into  a  brief  descrip- 
tion of  the  country  so  soon  to  be  opened  to  the  traveling 
pubUc.  Hitherto  we  have  roamed  it  in  imagination  as 
the  fur-traders  did,  bent  only  on  beaver-cskins  and  adven- 
ture. Now  we  will  briefly  consider  it  as  a  country  fit  for 
the  permanent  settlement  of  industrious  Peoples  seeking 
homes  for  themselves  and  the  coming  generations. 


014 


WESTERN    OREGON. 


I     ^i 


|.^   i  ! 


Western  Oregon. — To  commence  with  the  oldest  set- 
tled portion  of  the  original  Oregon  Territory,  we  will 
first  describe  that  portion  of  the  present  State  of  Oreo'on 
technically  known  as  Western  Oregon.     All  that  portion 
of  the  State  of  Oregon  lying  west  of  the  Cascade  Moun- 
tains, is  comprised  in  three  principal  valleys — the  Walla- 
met,*  the  Umpqua,  and  the  Rogue  Hiver  Valleys — and  in 
a  narrow  strip  of  country  lying  along  the  coast,  and  sepa- 
rated from  the  valleys  by  the  Coast  range  of  mountains. 
These  two  ranges  of  mountains,  the  Cascades,  high  and 
almost  inaccessible  on  the  east,  and  the  Coast  range,  sepa- 
rating it  from  the  sea  on  the  west,  make  of  Western  Ore 
gon  a  country  with  a  very  peculiar  geography.    With 
the  Columbia  River  for  a  northern  boundary,  and  with 
three  transverse  ranges  of  mountains  to  the  south,  sepa- 
rating the  several  valleys,  the  situation  of  Western  Oregon 
is  isolated  and  unique. 

.  The  Wallamet  River  takes  its  rise  in  the  Cascade  Moun- 
tains, flowing  westwardly  for  some  distance,  when  it  takes 
a  course  almost  directly  north,  and  falls  into  the  Columbia 
in  about  latitude  45°  30',  and  longitude  45°  40'.  The 
whole  length  of  this  river  is  probably  not  over  one  hun- 
dred and  seventy-five  miles  ;  and  the  extent  of  its  valley 
proper  is  in  the  neighborhood  of  one  hundred  and  twenty- 
five  miles  in  length,  by  from  sixty  to  eighty  in  breadth. 
Numerous  tributaries  flow  into  the  Wallamet  from  either 
side,  making  the  country  both  fertile  and  agreeable. 

The  Wallamet  Valley  is  mostly  open  prairie  land,  ready 
for  the  plowshare.  At  the  northern  end  of  it,  however, 
and  within  a  few  miles  of  the  Columbia,  there  are  dense 
forests  of  fir,  pine,  yew,  and  cedar,  on  all  the  high  and 
dry  lands,  while  the  bottom-lands  along  the  streams  are 

*  Incorrectly  spelled  on  the  maps,  Willamette. 


THE    WALLAMET   VALLEY. 


515 


covered  with  a  fine  growth  of  oak,  ash,  maple,  cotton- 
wood,  alder,  and  willow.  But  as  we  travel  southward 
from  the  Columbia,  the  timber  along  the  Wallamet  be- 
comes less  dense,  until  finally  we  come  to  the  beautiful 
open  prairies,  only  half  hidden  from  view  by  a  thin  fringe 
of  low  trees,  and  picturesquely  dotted  here  and  there  by 
(Troves  of  oak  and  fir  intermingled.  i 

The  Prairies  of  Western  Oregon  do  not  resemble  the 
immense  flat  plains  of  Illinois  ;  but  are  rather  gently  un- 
dulating, and  bear  a  strong  likeness  to  the  "  oak  open- 
ings" of  Michigan  and  Wisconsin.  Instead  of  being  con- 
tinuous levels,  they  are  divided  by  low  ranges  of  hills, 
covered  with  oak  timber,  low  and  spreading,  and  draped, 
like  the  trees  of  the  Sacramento  Valley,  with  a  long 
hanging  gray  moss,  that  floats  lightly  on  the  summer 
wind,  as  if  celebrating  the  delightful  mildness  and  beauty 
of  the  scene. 

The  Wallamet,  although  navigable  for  one  hundred  and 
thirty  miles  from  its  mouth,  is,  like  all  the  rivers  west  of 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  troubled  with  rapids,  and  narrowed 
in  some  places  to  little  more  than  the  width  of  the  passing 
steamer.     In  the  latter  part  of  summer,  steamers  cannot  : 
ascend  it  beyond  Salem,  the  capital  of  the  State.     Of  its  ; 
ten  principal  tributaries,  most  of  them  are  navigable  for  • 
considerable  distances,  and  all  of  them  furnish  abundant 
water-power.  .,,,^.,  .,  ^.,. ,-,.,.., ..^^ — ^„.. 

The  Falls  of  the   Wallamet^  about  twenty-five  miles  ; 
from  its  junction  with  the  Columbia,  furnish  the  greatest 
water-power   in   the   State,   as  also   some   fine   scenery. 
Above  the  falls,  the  water  spreads  out  into  a  wide,  deep  ? 
basin,  and  runs  slowly  and  smoothly  until  within  a  half-  '^ 
mile  of  the  falls,  when  its  width  diminishes,  its  velocity 
increases,  and  in  its  haste  it  turns  back  upon  itself,  form- 
ing dangerous  eddies,  until  at  length,  forced  forward,  it  ^ 


'\  '• 


li^i  UM 


516 


WESTERN   OREGON.    '-  fn.fO   JIHT 


!      i 


makes  the  plunge  of  more  than  twenty  feet,  into  a  boilhiff 
whirlpo  )1  below,  and  breaks  into  foam  along  a  ledge  of 
volcanic  rock  stretching  from  shore  to  shore.  The  spray 
dashed  up  by  the  descent  of  the  water,  forms  a  beautiful 
rainbow,  besides  being  a  means  of  cooling  the  hot  air  of 
the  summer  noon  at  Oregon  City,  which  is  situated  along 
the  rocky  bluffs  at  this  point  of  the  river,      a/j  ^'^RHWffe 

The  navigation  of  the  river  thus  interrupted,  formerly 
necessitated  a  portage  of  a  couple  of  miles  at  Oregon 
City ;  but  recently  the  People's  Transportation  Company 
have  erected  a  strong  basin  on  the  east  side  of  the  river, 
which  permits  their  boats  to  come  so  close  together  that 
the  passengers  and  freight  have  only  to  pass  through  the 
Company's  warehouse  to  be  transferred. 

The  amount  of  agricultural  land  in  the  Wallamet  Val- 
ley is  estimated  at  about  three  million  acres.  This  esti- 
mate leaves  out  large  bodies  of  land  in  the  foot-hills  of 
the  mountains,  on  either  side,  more  suitable  for  grazing 
than  for  farming  purposes.  -  ■  ••  -    • 

T/ie  Soil  of  the  Wallamet  Valley  is  of  excellent  quality. 
Upon  the  prairies  it  consists  of  gray,  calcareous,  sandy 
loam,  especially  adapted  to  the  cultivation  of  cereals,  par- 
ticularly of  wheat,  barley,  and  oats.  It  is  exceedingly 
mellow  and  easily  worked,  and  is  not  affected  by  drouth. 
Along  the  banks  of  the  river,  and  the  streams  tributary 
to  it,  the  soil  consists  of  various  decomposed  earths,  sand, 
and  vegetable  matter,  deposited  there  in  seasons  of  freshet, 
and  is  of  the  most  fertile  description.  The  soil  of  the 
foot-hills  is  a  dark  clay  loam,  mixed  with  vegetable  mold 
in  the  small  intervening  valleys.  Excellent  grasses  are 
produced,  though  this  kind  of  soil  suffers  more  from 
drouth  than  that  of  the  prairies. 

.  The  CJi mate  of  the  Wallamet  Fa??e?/ is  mild  and  agreeable. 
The  seasons  are  two, — the  wet  and  the  dry.     The  rainy 


THE    CLIMATE    OF    THE    WALLAMET    VALLEY. 


517 


jionson  nsually  commences  in  November,  although  fre- 
quently it  holds  off,  except  a  few  light  showers,  until  De- 
conil^er.  The  rains  continue  pretty  constantly  until  about 
tlie  last  of  January,  when  there  is  a  clearing  up  of  three 
or  four  weeks.  This  interval  is  the  real  winter  season, 
and  is  sometimes  cold,  with  frozen  ground,  or  snow,  though 
frciierally  the  Oregon  winters  are  not  characterised  either 
by  cold  or  snow  to  any  great  amount.  After  this  "clear 
spell "  comes  a  second  season  of  rains  which  may  clear  up 
by  the  first  of  March,  or  not  until  April.  It  is  not  an  un- 
usual thing  for  gardening  to  be  commenced  in  February ; 
but  the  result  of  this  early  gardening  is  not  always  sure. 

WheK  the  rains  of  winter  have  passed,  there  are  occa- 
sional showers  until  the  first  of  July,  after  which  there  is 
a  dry  period  of  four  months.     This  dry  season  instead  of 
being  oppressive,  as  would  be  the  case  in  the  Atlantic 
States,  is  most  delightful.     Sufficient  moisture  is  borne  in 
from  the  sea,  over  the  tops  of  the  Coast  range  to  make  the 
air  of  a  fine  coolness  and  freshness,  and  not  enough  to 
make  it  humid.     Thus  there  is  a  fine,  dry,  cool  air,  with  a 
moderate  temperature,  and  a  dry  warm  earth,  which  makesi 
an  Oregon  summer  the  most  charming  season  to  be  expe- 
rienced in  any  part  of  the  world.     The  nights  are  always 
cool  enough  to  make  a  blanket  necessary.     The  mornings 
bright  and  not  too  hot — the  heated  term  during  dog-days 
only  extending  over  the  hours  from  12  M.  to  4  P.  M. 

That  a  climate  such  as  this  must  be  healthful  is  undeni- 
able. During  the  falling  of  the  rains  there  is  little  or  no 
sickness.  Just  after  the  rain  ceases  falling,  and  before  the 
earth  becomes  dry,  the  rapid  evaporation  causes  colds  and 
coughs  to  the  careless  or  the  inexperienced.  Through  the 
dry  season  there  is  little  sickness  except  in  certain  locali- 
ties where,  as  in  all  new  countries,  malaria  is  formed  by 
the  exposure  to  the  sun  of  new  or  submerged  soila..;i^  .  -r 


'.if! 


518 


WESTERN    OIIEOON. 


One  of  the  faults,  so  to  spoak,  of  Western  Oregon  is 
its  .nildness  of  climate.  The  agricultural  population  are 
prone  to  be  negligent  in  providing  for  that  irregular,  and 
uncertainly  certain  occasional  visitation,  a  "  hard  winter." 
Therefore  the  stock-raiser  who  has  his  several  hundred 
head  of  cattle  and  horses  ranging  his  one  or  two  thousand 
acres  of  uplands,  and  who,  trusting  in  Providence,  makes 
no  sufficient  provision  for  a  month  or  six  weeks  of  feed- 
ing, is  liable  once  in  five  to  eight  years,  to  lose  nearly  all 
of  his  stock,  ^id  this  same  stock-raiser  have  to  get  his 
cattle  through  seven  months  of  winter  as  many  eastern 
farmers  do,  he  might  come  at  last  to  be  willing  to  provide 
for  the  possible  six  weeks.  Cattle  in  Oregon  generally 
look  poor  in  the  spring,  because  the  farmers  allow  them 
to  shift  for  themselves  all  through  the  rainy  season,  which 
they  should  not  do.  For  this  reason.  Western  Oregon,  al- 
though naturally  the  best  of  dairy  countries,  furnishes  Ht- 
tie  butter  and  cheese,  and  that  often  of  a  poor  quality. 
An  influx  of  Central  New  York  dairymen  would  greatly 
benefit  the  state,  and  develop  one  of  its  surest  means  of 
wealth. 

The  Productions  of  the  Wallamet  Valley  are  wheat,  oats, 
barley,  rye,  wool,  and  fruits.  All  of  the  grains  grow 
abundantly,  and  are  of  unusual  excellence.  The  same  is 
true  of  such  fruits  as  apples,  pears,  plums,  cherries,  cur- 
rants, gooseberries,  strawberries,  blackberries,  raspberries, 
etc.  In  fact  all  fruits  do  well  in  Western  Oregon,  except 
grapes,  peaches,  apricots,  nectarines,  and  that  class  of 
fruits  which  love  a  dry  and  hot  climate.  Grapes  and 
peaches  can  be  raised  with  sufficient  care,  but  are  not  a 
natural  crop  like  the  first  mentioned  fruits.  Corn  is  not 
raised  as  a  crop,  on  account  of  the  cool  nights,  which  are 
not  favorable  to  its  ripening.       .--ir:-    ;  j,   < 'i^hiR 

Tlie  Umpqua  Valley  is  that  portion  of  Western  Oregon 


TUE    COAST    COUNTRY, 


519 


next  south  of  the  WalLamct  Valley,  being  divided  from  it 
by  a  range  of  mountains  bearing  tl»o  Indian  name  of  Cala- 
pooya.  It  is  a  region  not  so  well  fitted  for  grain-raising 
as  the  Wallamet  valley,  but  is  perhaps  superior  as  a  fruit- 
growing and  wool-raising  section.  The  valley  is  watered 
hy  tlie  Umpqua  River,  and  is  broken  up  into  numerous 
hills  and  valleys,  in  the  most  picturesque  manner.  It  is 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  portions  of  the  Pacific  Coast, 
being  rolling,  well,  without  being  densely  wooded,  and 
having  a  very  agreeable  climate,  with  rather  less  rain  than 
falls  in  the  lower  altitude  of  the  Wallamet. 

The  Rogue  River  Valley  is  another  division  of  Western 
Oregon,  divided  from  the  Umpqua  vfHey  by  a  range  of 
mountains  bearing  the  name  of  Umpqua,  It  resembles 
the  country  just  described  in  general,  but  has  a  climate 
which  is  a  happy  mixture  of  Californian  dryness  aud  Oro- 
gonian  moisture.  It  is  not  considered  a  grain-growing  coun- 
try to  any  great  extent ;  not  from  any  inadaptability  of 
the  soil,  but  because  it  is  a  very  superior  grazing  and  fruit- 
jrrowing  country,  and  has  also  a  considerable  mining  noto- 
riety. It  is  separated  from  northern  California  by  the 
Liskiyou  range  of  mountains,  and  watered  by  the  Rogue 
River  and  its  northern  tributaries.  fr^.^j; 

The  Coast  Country  consists  of  a  strip  of  land  from  five 
to  twelve  miles  wide,  lying  between  the  westernmost  range 
of  mountains  in  Oregon,  and  the  sea.  It  contains  several 
counties,  whose  chief  agricultural  merits  consist  in  the  ex- 
cellence of  their  grasses  and  vegetables.  Fruit  too,  grows 
very  well  in  the  Coast  counties.  Hops  and  honey,  as  well 
as  butter,  are  among  their  chief  farming  products.  But 
the  greatest  wealth  of  the  Coas't  counties  is  probably  to  be 
derived  from  the  heavy  forests  of  timber  which  cover  the 
mountain  sides ;  and  from  the  mines  of  coal  and  copper 
which  underlie  them.  -  .^i^o^.w*' 


520 


WK9TKUN    OREGON. 


!      i 


A  number  of  points  have  already  become  quite  famous 
for  business  alon<^  tlio  coast;  Coose  Bay  for  its  coal  ami 
lumber;  Tilamook  for  its  oysters;  and  Yaquina  for  its 
good  harborage,  and  easy  access  through  a  fine  niitural 
pass  to  the  heart  of  the  Wallamet  valley.  The  port  of 
Umpqua  once  promised  to  become  a  point  of  some  import- 
ance, but  latterly  has  fallen  into  neglect  from  the  difficulty 
of  communicating  thence  with  the  interior. 

The  climate  of  the  Coast  counties  is  cooler  and  more 
moist  than  that  of  the  valleys  to  the  eastward,  on  account 
of  their  contiguity  to  the  sea.     Their  soil  is  deep,  black, 
and  rich,  supporting  an  immense  growth  of  shrubbery, 
and  ferns  from  ten  to  fourteen  feet  in  height.     The  prai- 
rie spots  are  covered  with  grass,  and  so  are  the  hill-sides 
wherever  the  timber  is  not  too  dense.     Though  the  mean 
temperature  of  the  Coast  counties  is  lower  than  that  of  the 
interior,  it  is  also  more  even  ;  and  the  sea-fogs  in  summer 
as  well  as  the  rains  in  winter  serve  to  keep  the  natural 
grasses  in  excellent  condition.     In  short  every  circum- 
stance seems  to  point  to  the  Coast  counties  of  Oregon  as 
the  great  dairy  region  of  the  Pacific  Coast,  as  the  valleys 
of  the  interior  are  the  granaries,  and  the  hill-sides  the 
sheep-pastures. 

Good  feed  the  year  round,  grain  enough  for  the  wants 
of  the  farmer,  plenty  of  cold  mountain  water,  abundance 
of  timber,  plenty  of  game  and  fish,  are  all  inducements  to 
the  settler  who  wishes  to  make  himself  a  permanent  home 
on  the  Pacific  Slope.  These,  added  to  the  wealth  yet  to 
be  developed  in  mines  and  lumber  at  every  opening  where 
a  vessel  of  a  hundred  tons  can  enter,  make  the  future  of 
these  now  almost  vacant  Coast  counties  look  inviting. 

Mesiime  of  the  Soil^  Climate  and  Resources  of  Western, 
Oregon. — From  the  foregoing  general  description  of  West- 
ern Oregon  it  will  be  seen  that  the  country  lying  between 


SOIL,    CLIMATK,    KESOUli'  KS, 


521 


the  Cusoado  Mountains  and  the  Coast  range,  consists  of 
one  viilley  containing  about  as  much  agricultural  land  of 
the  best  quality  as  would  make  a  State  of  the  size  of  Con- 
necticut, and  two  other  smaller  valhjys,  with  a  less  ])ropor- 
tioii  of  farming  land,  and  a  greater  proportion  of  hill  and 
pasture  lands.  Also  that  between  the  Coast  range  and 
the  ocean  is  a  strip  of  country  wide  enough  for  a  tier  of 
counties,  peculiarly  adapted  to  grazing  purposes,  yet  not 
without  considerable  arable  land. 

No  one  can  survey  the  Wallamet  Valley  without  being 
struck  with  its  beauty  and  its  fertility,  and  many  are  found 
who  pronounce  it  the  most  beautiful  spot  in  America.  Its 
beauty  consists  in  the  agreeable  intermixture  of  level  or 
rolling  prairies,  with  ranges  of  low  hills,  dotted  with  oak 
timber,  in  the  multitude  of  its  winding  rivers,  along  which 
grow  a  skirting  of  graceful  trees,  and  in  the  grandeur  of 
the  mountains  which  guard  it  alike  from  the  heat  of  the 
eastern  deserts,  and  the  cold  of  ihe  northern  ocean.  Its 
fertility  is  evident  from  the  mighty  forests  which  mantle 
the  hills  in  everlasting  green,  and  from  the  grassy  plains 
which  year  after  year  clothe  the  valley  with  renewed  ver- 
dure, as  well  as  from  the  golden  harvest  fields  which  man 
has  interspersed  among  the  universal  green.  ^  >•*  - 

The  question  which  first  suggests  itself  is  concerning 
the  durability  of  the  soil  which  produces  so  well  in  a  wild 
state.  A  sketch  of  the  history  of  agriculture  in  Oregon 
will  serve  to  point  to  an  answer. 

Many  portions  of  Oregon  have  been  cultivated  for  a 
period  of  twenty-five  years  without  any  of  those  aids  to 
the  soil,  or  that  care  in  preparation  and  cultivation  which 
is  thought  necessary  to  keep  up  the  quality  of  soils  in 
other  farming  States.  This  thriftless  mode  of  farming  was 
the  result,  partly  of  an  absence  of  laborers  and  good 
farming  utensils,  for  the  first  fifteen  years  of  the  occupa- 


522 


WESTERN    OREGON. 


V  i  ■ 

IE      I 


^ 


tion  of  Oregon  by  a  farming  community.  From  tlie  neces- 
sity of  [)()or  farming  grew  the  habit.  It  was  found  that  the 
earth  would  continue  to  produce  when  only  half-cultivtitou 
hence  ff.rmers  grew  indolent  from  too  great  security.  The 
great  regularity  of  the  seasons  too,  by  which  the  maturing 
of  crops  became  a  certainty,  contributed  to  this  general 
indiilerence,  for  it  is  an  established  fact  that  in  order  to 
work  well,  men  must  be  in  some  sort  compelled  to  work. 

Another  reason  why  farmers  have  not  put  themselves 
upon  their  mettle  in  a  generous  emulation,  was,  that  for 
many  years  farm  products  were  worth  little  or  nothing  for 
want  of  a  market.  All  these  reasons  conspired  to  confirm 
a  habit  of  indifi'erent  cultivation,  which  accident  and  the 
condition  of  the  country  first  forced  upon  theui.  Yet 
these  same  lands  do  not  appear  to  have  suffered  very  ma- 
terially from  this  long  course  of  impoverishment.     <-  ??^«  ; 

Yet  another  cause  of  poor  farming  has  been  in  the  fact 
of  so  large  bodies  of  land  having  been  held  as  sing!"  farms. 
It  is  impossible,  of  course,  for  one  family  to  ciUtivate  a 
mile  square  of  land.  Hence  a  little  grain  was  scratched 
in  on  one  portion  of  the  claim,  and  a  little  more  on  another, 
and  all  so  scattered,  and  carelessly  done  that  no  first-^ate 
crops  could  possibly  be  obtained. 

The  soil  of  the  prairies  is  of  a  dark  gray  color,  is  mel- 
low, and  not  affected  by  drouth.  It  is  especially  adapted 
to  cereals,  and  grows  vegetables  and  fruits  well,  but  not 
so  well  as  the  more  alluvial  soil  formed  im.mediately  along 
the  banks  of  the  rivers  and  streams.  It  is  found,  too,  that 
ihuv  portion  of  the  prairie  which  grows  ferns,  and  the  land 
which  skirts  the  oak  groves,  or  has  been  clear':  i  of  tim- 
ber, is  more  favorable  to  fruit-grf)wing  than  the  more 
compact  soil  of  the  prairie.  The  timbered  lands  every 
where  are  productive,  excepting  occasional  clay  ridge? 
where  pines  are  found.     The  prairies  still  furnish  grass  in 


SOIL,    CLIMATE,    RESOURCES. 


523 


ay  color,  Is  mel- 


abuiuliinco  for  hay,  but  not  of  such  quality  nor  in  such 
(jiian.tity  as  the  swampti,  swales,  and  beaver-dams  near  the 
rivers  and  in  the  L.eavy  timber  when  drained  and  cleared. 

Of  tlic  several  varieties  of  soil  in  Western  Ore^^on, 
there  are  none  that  are  not  sufficiently  productive  to  in- 
vite labor  with  a  promise  of  reward.  The  whole  face  of 
the  country  is  productive,  and  wherever  the  hillsides  are 
not  too  steep  to  pitch  a  tent,  those  things  needed  by  man 
may  be  made  to  grow  abundantly. 

Climate,  however,  and  the  shape  of  the  country  govern 
men  in  their  selection  of  occupations.  The  grain-farmer 
v.ill  keep  to  the  valleys;  the  fruitgrower  will  occupy  the 
gentle  slopes  of  the  lowest  hills ;  the  stock-raiser  will  set- 
tle among  the  foot-hills,  and  take  his  sheep  to  the  moun- 
tains; while  the  dairy-man  will  seek  those  spots  where 
grass  is  good  for  the  longest  period  of  time,  and  where 
the  temperature  favors  the  making  of  good,  solid  and 
sweet  butter  and  cheese. 

The  nights  in  Western  Oregon  are  always  cooj,  and  sleep 
becomes  a  regular  refreshment.  It  is  owing  to  the  low 
temperature  of  the  nights  that  corn  and  some  varieties  of 
fruit  have  commonly  failed.  However  the  proper  cultiva- 
tion will  yet  produce  those  things  in  a  sufficient  abundance. 
Good  corn  has  Ijeen  raised  in  Western  Oregon,  and  peaches 
of  splendid  size  and  flavor  occasionally  find  their  way  to 
market.  Apples,  cherries,  and  plums  of  unequalled  size 
and  excellence  grow  m  astonishing  profusion. 

The  winters  of  Western  Oregon,  though  I'ainy,  ara  gen- 
erally mild.  The  principal  hardship  of  the  rainy  season 
consists  in  simply  enduring  the  monotony  of  the  dull  sky 
and  constant  rain.  It  is,  however,  a  favorable  climate  for 
the  farmer,  since  he  is  not  forced  to  work  hard  all  the 
summer  to  raise  what  his  stock  will  need  to  eat  through 


524 


WESTKIIN    OREGON. 


the  winter.     A  fortnight's  feed  usually  suffices  for  the 
wintering  of  cattle. 

The  following  tables  show  the  comparative  mean  tem- 
peratures of  three  points  in  Oregon,  with  four  in  other 
States :  also  the  number  of  rainy  days  in  Oregon  and  Illi- 
nois, respectively : 


.-M- 


Table  I. — Showing  Comparative  Mean  Temperatures. 


^'('\t>rj 


Time. 

a 
?c 

O 
1 

< 

d 

o 

1 

in 

1 

'o 

.s 
i 

CO 

S 

bc 

3 

d 

S 
1 

'3 

rt 

1 

s 

as 

< 

3 

.5 

3 

Years  of  Observation    .... 

n 

H 

3i 

11? 

2 

42.33 
69.95 
42.60 
13.06 
41.97 

51 

24 

47.G1 
70.17 
50.01 
25.83 
48.41 

47.36 
71.42 
50.34 

25.88 
48.75 

Spring  Temperature 

Summer         "            

Autumn          "            

Winter           «           

Whole  Time  "            

51.16 
61.36 
53.55 
42.43 
52.13 

52.19 
67.18 
53.41 
39.27 
53.00 

53.00 
70.36 
52.21 
35.59 
52.79 

51.34 
72.51 
53.38 
29.80 
51.76 

59.97 
71.08 
64.36 
52.29 
61.93 

The  only  point  in  Eastern  Oregon,  whose  temperature 
is  exhibited  in  this  table,  is  Dalles,  which,  situated  as  it 
is,  immediately  at  the  base  of  the  Cascade  Mountains, 
does  not  fairly  represent  the  temperature  of  the  extensive 
valleys  farther  east,  which  constitute  the  agricultural  re 
gion  of  that  country.  The  summer,  in  most  of  those  val- 
leys, as  well  as  on  the  table-lands,  is  much  warmor  than  at 
the  Dalles.  The  winter  temperature,  it  will  be  oWrved, 
is  much  higher  than  that  of  other  States  in  the  ^me  lati 
tude,  while  that  of  the  spring  is  nearly  tk«  8»Me,  and  the 
summer  not  quite  so  high. 


Jir 


ilm 


SOIL,    CLIilATE,    KESOURCES. 


525 


'  suffices  for  tlie 

irative  mean  tern- 
ith  four  in  other 
L  Oregon  and  lUi- 


mperatures. 


V.  ~tS„^..,, 


'••^iiaV' 


c 

i 

o 

CJ 
N 

o 
to 

o 

5 

a 

>^ 

c 

c« 

< 

24 

47.61 
70.17 
50.01 
25.83 
48.41 

C4 

A 

sT 
s 
g* 

3 

ft 

31 

47,36 
71.42 
50.34 
25.88 
48.75 

2 

5^ 

12.33 
39.95 
12.60 
.3.06 
.1.97 

59.97 
71.08 
64.36 
52.29 
61.93 

lose  temperature 
h,  situated  as  it 
cade  Mountains, 
of  the  extensive 
agricultural  re 
LOst  of  those  val- 
1  warnior  !han  at 
rill  be  oK'«erved, 
in  the  ^aiiie  lati 
u^  same,  aiid  the 


T.iUi.E  U.—Shomng  the  Number  of  Rainy  Days  during  the  Winter,  at  Astoria^ 
Oregon,  Wallamel  Valley,  Oregon,  and  Peoria,  Illinois,  respectively. 


Month. 


XdVlilllxT.    .    . 

IVccinln'r.  .  . 
,  JaiiMiiry  .... 
;  February  .  .  . 

Total 


Astoria,  Oregon. 

Wiillamot 
Vallfty,  0. 

Pooria,  111. 

1857-8 

1858-9 

1859-60 

1856-7 

1856-7 

1857-8 

21 

16 

19 

9 

9 

16 

25 

14 

15 

13 

10 

7 

17 

19 

19 

15 

4 

6 

9 

20 

17 

6 

10 

8 

72 

69 

70 

43 

83 

37 

This  table  includes  all  rainy  days,  without  reference  to 
wliether  it  rained  all  day,  or  only  a  part.  It  also  includes 
snowy  days,  very  few  of  which  are  seen  in  Oregon,  in  an 
ordinary  winter. 

The  climate  of  Oregon  has  proven  to  be  a  healthful  one 
(luring  a  thirty  years'  residence  of  some  of  the  earliest 
missionaries  and  settlers,  no  far  as  natural  causes  are  con- 
cerned, there  appears  to  be  none  for  the  promotion  of 
disease,  if  we  except  the  tendency  to  pulmonary  and  rheu- 
matic diseases  for  which  both  California  and  Oregon  are 
fiuned,  and  which  no  doubt  is  to  be  credited  to  the  cold 
winds  from  the  ocean.  These  winds  in  themselves  are  a 
smitary  provision  of  nature,  and  servo  to  give  the  Pacific 
coast  a  climate  generally  free  from  jaiiasmatic  and  pestilen- 
tial diseases ;  but  it  is  necessary  for  sensitive  constitutions 
to  guard  against  the  rapid  change  of  temperature  which 
they  effect  when  they  come  .^weeping  in  from  the  sea. 
sudtlonly  displacing  the  warm  air  of  the  valleys.  With 
proper  cai\\  and  attention  to  the  most  manifest  laws  of 
herlth,  the  physical  man  has  a.  better  opportunity  for  rnag- 
niticont  development,  on  the  Pacific  coaHt,  than  in  any 
other  part  of  the  Auior'^an  continent. 
While  the  winters  of  Western  Oregon  are  dull  awl  di^ 


F»g.  ,i>X.F.tM.1. 


ii4J^ 


52(j 


WE8TEUN    OREGON. 


agreeable,  the  summers  are  proportionately  deliohtful 
The  general  temperature  of  the  days  is  mild  and  a<Teea- 
ble,  the  air  bright  and  clear,  warmer  in  the  afternoons 
than  in  the  mornings,  invariably  ;  yet  falling  again  to  aa 
invigorating  coolness  in  the  evening.  Sultriness  is  almost 
never  experienced  in  this  part  of  Oregon.  The  greatest 
heat  of  summer  has  not  that  enervating  eifect  which  tlie 
summer-heats  have  in  the  Atlantic  States.  It  is  frequently 
remarked  by  the  farmers  here  that  their  cattle  can  endure 
to  work  right  on  under  the  hottest  sun  of  summer  with- 
out showing  signs  of  exhaustion,  as  they  would  have  done 
in  those  States  from  which  they  were  brought. 

From  the  peculiarities  of  the  soil,  seasons,  and  chmate 
of  Western  Oregon,  it  becomes  necessary  for  the  farmer 
to  practice  modes  of  culture  especially  adapted  to  it,  and 
to  conform  to  other  seed-time  than  that  he  may  have  been 
accustomed  to  in  other  States.  Much  can  undoubtedly 
be  learned  from  old  Oregon  farmers ;  but  a  careful  obser- 
vation from  year  to  year,  with  a  little  judicious  experi- 
ment, will,  we  hope,  develop  among  the  newer  settlers 
a  better  manner  of  farming  than  that  formerly  practiced 
in  Oregon,  when  one  year's  cultivation  was  made  to  an- 
swer for  three  years'  crops— the  two  latter  of  which  were 
of  course  self-sown. 

While  the  yield  of  wheat  is  perhaps  no  greater  than 
that  of  the  Genesee  valley,  or  the  rich  prairies  of  Indiana 
or  son th western  Michigan,  the  crop  is  far  more  sure,  from 
the  absence  of  insects,  rust,  winter-killing,  etc.  Perhaps 
not  more  than  twice  since  the  .'ettlement  of  the  Wallamet 
Valley  has  the  wheat  crop  been  injured  by  rain  in  harvest 
time.  As  a  general  thing  the  straw  is  short  and  stout,  and 
^  the  grain  is  never  laid  down  by  summer  tempests  of  wind 
and  rain. 

Peas  sown  broadcast,  with  or  without  oats,  bring  a  pro- 


\\ 


SOIL,    CLIMATE,    RESOURCES. 


527 


)iiatoly  delightful. 
s  mild  and  agreea- 
in  the  afternoons 
idling  again  to  an 
Sultriness  is  almost 
:on.  The  greatest 
g  effect  which  the 
3.  It  is  frequently 
'  cattle  can  endure 
a  of  summer  with- 
'  would  have  done 
rought.  ,,v 

;asons,  and  chmate 
ary  for  the  farmer 
adapted  to  it,  and 
he  may  have  been 
can  undoubtedly 
lUt  a  careful  obser- 
!  judicious  experi- 
ho  newer  settlers 
foi'merly  practiced 
was  made  to  an- 
-er  of  which  were 

s  no  greater  than 
jrairies  of  Indiana 
vr  more  sure,  from 
ng,  etc.  Perhaps 
t  of  the  Wallamet 
by  rain  in  harvest 
ort  and  stout,  and 
tempests  of  wind 

oats,  bring  a  pro* 


iuct  about  equal  to  wheat;  and  are  the  best  crop  for  fat- 
■iiiiu'-  hogs,  requiring  little  labor,  and  producing  a  fine 
;;ialitv  of  pork  by  turning  the  hogs  into  the  field  in  the 
fall  and  letting  t^em  fatten  there.  Bacon  brings  a  high 
price  in  the  mines,  and  is  one  of  the  most  valuable  posses- 
sions of  the  farmer.  The  rapid  increase  of  sheep  in  Oro- 
ijon  gives  the  sheep-raiser  a  large  surplus  every  year 
above  what  he  can  afford  to  keep  for  their  wool,  and  of 
this  surplus  quite  a  number  every  year  may  be  sold  for 
mutton  at  homo,  or  driven  to  the  mines,  where  they  com- 
mand a  good  price. 

The  whole  country  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  is  fa- 
vorably adapted  to  fruit-growing,  and  no  portion  of  it 
more  so  than  Western  Oregon.  Trees  of  three  years' 
ffrowth  bend  to  the  earth  under  their  burdens  of  fruit. 
Before  the  tree  matures  its  strength  it  bears  at  a  rate  so 
irondeiiul  that  without  artificial  support  the  branches  split 
away  from  the  main  tree.  Apple  trees  less  than  two 
inches  in  diameter,  with  branches  no  mor#  than  three- 
quarters  of  an  inch  in  thickness  are  so  crowded  with  ap- 
ples as  to  leave  very  little  of  the  stock  visible.  We  have 
counted  forty  large  apples  on  a  limb  of  the  thickness 
mentioned  above,  and  no  more  than  four  feet  and  a  half 
long, — a  mere  rod.  Plum  and  pear  trees  bear  in  the  san  o 
manner.  Cherries  are  equally  prolific,  but  peaches  sel- 
dom crowd  the  tree  in  Western  Oregon,  though  they  do 
in  Eastern  Oregon.  Probably  the  best  treatment  to  give 
young  fruit  trees  in  Oregon  would  be  to  pull  off  the  great- 
er portion  of  the  fruit  for  the  first  year  or  two  in  order 
that  the  trees  might  mature  their  strength.  No  doubt  it 
Aould  also  add  to  the  flavor  of  the  fruit,  though  that 
seems  to  be  always  excellent. 

" Wildljorries  are  very  abundnnt.  Home  of  whkV  arc  jioruliarly  delirious. 
Thf  benies  ure  straw  1»«»tIoi»,  dewbenies,  whortl«.>WiTit;s.  s»lliilb(;rries,  black  aud 

84 


528 


WESTERN    OREGON. 


yellow  raspberries,  gf)osebemos,  juneberries,  and  (-ranberries.  The  cranborrii . 
are  good,  but  found  in  abundance  only  in  tbc  vicinity  of  the  ocean  ;  the  junc  sal- 
mon, and  <roosel)erries  are  nut  particularly  desirable;  the  dew,  sallal,  andras'- 
berries  iu'iMtliolce,  and  (jiiite  abundant ;  and  the  .straw  and  whortleberries  an 
fc>i'-iiii'ly  abinidant  and  delicious,  llui  prairies  may  be  truly  said  to  be  liter 
ally  red  with  strawberries,  and  the  timbered  openiii;j;.s  blue  with  whortlebcrric, 
in  their  season.  The  seasv>n  of  ripe  strawberries  is  from  three  to  six  wwiis, 
and  that  of  whortleberries  from  six  to  ten  weeks.  The  whortleberry  bush, 
except  in  the  mountains,  like  the  Umpqua  plnm  shrub,  is  borne  prostrate  nm 
tyie  earth's  grassy  covering,  from  the  weight  of  its  delicious  fruit.  The  wild 
strawberry  of  Oregon  is  larger  and  better  than  any  we  have  ever  scon,  except 
the  largest  of  the  large  garden  cultivated  Ei  glisli  strawberry.  The  whortle- 
berry has  more  acidity  than  tliose  of  unshaded  growth,  growing  east  of  tk' 
mountains.  Eiiglish  gooseberries  and  currants  are  cultivated  here  with  suc- 
cess." 

The  native  grasses  of  Western  Oregon  are  blue-grass, 
and  red  and  white  clover.  The  grass  formerly  grew  verv 
tall  on  the  prairies  but  has  been  so  much  eaten  off  and 
tramT)led  out  by  numerous  herds  of  cattle,  that  it  is  now 
mucii  shorter.  When  sown  in  favorable  situations,  timo 
thy  will  grow  to  a  height  of  between  five  and  six  feet. 

The  timbbr  of  Western  Oregon  consists  of  pine,  fir, 
cedar,  oak,  spruce,  hemlock,  cotton -wood,  cherry,  and 
maplo.  Probnbly  there  is  no  country  in  the  world  where 
timber  grows  so  strikingly  straight  and  beautiful,  and  to 
such  gigantic  altitude  and  dimensions  as  in  Oregon.  Two 
hundred  feet  is  but  a  moderate  height  for  the  growth  of 
firs,  cedars,  and  spruce,  and  they  frequently  attain  a  much 
greater  altitude.  We  have  seen  elder  growing  in  Oregon 
three  feet  in  circumference,  and  hazel  thirty  inches  in  rir- 
cumference,  and  of  the  height  of  forty  feet.  Black  alder 
and  a  species  of  laurel  grow  to  what  would  be  termed,  in 
most  countries,  large  trees — ^logs  of  alder  have  been  ob 
tained  thirty-two  inches  in  diameter,  and  of  the  laurel 
four  feet  in  diameter.  In  Western  Oregon  groves  of  tiro 
ber  are  found  skirting  and  separating  prairies ;  but  the 
immense  timber  districts  are  mainly  <;onfined  to  the  neigli- 


BOIL,    CLIMATK,    RESOURCES. 


529 


borhood  of  the  coast  of  the  Pacific,  to  tlie  Coast,  Cascade 
■M'\  iihie  ranges  of  mountains,  and  the  immediate  vicinity 
of  the  rivers. 

The  lir  is  seen  almost  solely  on  the  western  slope  of  the 
Cascade  Mountains,  along  the  Columbia  River  from  where 
it  breaks  through  that  range  until  it  passes  through  the 
coast  range,  on  the  eastern  slope  of  the  Coast  Mountains, 
and  along  the  rivers  and  upon  the  mountains  almost  any 
where  between  the  summits  of  these  two  principal  ranges. 
It  is  evci'y where  slightly  mixed  with  spruce,  hemlock, 
cedar,  and  yew.  The  pine  is  generally  found  in  ridges  or 
patches  by  itself,  except  on  the  west  side  of  the  Coast 
liuige  where  it  grows  with  hemlock,  spruce,  and  cedar. 
WiHow  grows  along  all  the  ^tr^ams,  and  acquires  consid- 
erable size.  Ash,  oak,  maple,  cotton-wood,  and  alder  also 
grow  wherever  the  ground  is  low  and  moist. 

The  shrubbery  of  Oregon  is  very  beautiful  and  in  great 
variety.     There  are  several  varieties  of   alder,  bearing, 
sever      ,  light  purple,  scarlet  and  orange  colored  berries. 
The        d  cherry  is  a  light  and  graceful  tree,  having  a 
small,   clear  scarlet  fruit,  that  is  very  beautiful,  and  ex- 
ceedingly bitter.    The  tree-whortleberry  has  a  very  dimin- 
utive leaf,  almost  round,  and  a  small  crimson  berry  tasting 
much  like  a  barberry.     There  are  two  smaller  whortle- 
berry shrubs  corresponding  to  those  of  the  Atlantic  States, 
called  swamp  and  mountain  whortleberries.     There  are 
several  varieties  of  wild  cun^ants,  one  of  which  is  useless 
as  a    ruit,    but   is   most  beautiful  as  a  flowering  shrub. 
White  spirea,  and  golden  honeysuckle  thrust  their  white 
or  golden  blossoms  through  every  thicket,   and  with  the 
white  svrinofa  and  wild  rose,  festoon  the  rivrr  banks  and 
hill  sides  until  they  seem  one  bed  of  bloom.     The  hand- 
some shrubbery,  and  the  abundant  wild  flowers  of  Oregon, 
atone  greatly  for  the  want  of  greater  variety  in  the  forest 


I  .' 


530 


WESTERN    OREGON. 


tints  ;  and  the  case  with  wlich  flowers  may  be  cultivated 
for  the  adornment  of  homes  is  one  of  the  greatest  recom- 
mendations of  tlie  climate.  Nature  has  been  lavish,  thoufrh 
man  may  be  indiiferent.  If  ever  a  wilderness  might  be 
made  to  blossom  as  the  rose,  that  wilderness  is  Oregon. 
Few  of  the  old  settlers  of  Oregon  have  cared,  however 
to  take  advantage  of  the  facilities  allbrded  them  for  beau- 
tifying their  homesteads,  and  it  is  more  common  to  find  a 
house  without  garden  or  shrubbery  than  with  either;  a 
peculiarity  as  strange  as  it  is  inexcusable. 

Though  Western  Oregon  is  especially  adapted  to  agri- 
cultural and  pastoral  pursuits,  the  present  indications  of 
mineral  wealth  make  it  almost  certain  that  the  miner's 
pick,  as  well  as  the  farmer's  plow,  must  furrow  the  face  of 
mother  Earth,  west  of  the  Cascade  Mountains.  This  dis- 
covery was  not  sought  after  by  the  people  of  Oregon,  who 
were  firmly  fixed  in  their  belief  that  it  was  as  an  agricul- 
tural and  manufacturing  State  that  they  were  to  achieve 
their  highest  destiny.  But  when  gold  and  silver,  iron, 
coal,  and  copper,  are  knocking  for  admittance  as  State  re- 
sources, they  cannot  and  will  not  be  denied.  They  will 
be  accepted  as  aids  to  manufactures  and  commerce ;  and 
will  be  taken  in  connection  with  forests  of  splendid  tim- 
ber and  ri--  ers  of  unfailing  water-power,  as  the  means  by 
which  Oregon  is  to  acquire  her  future  status  as  one  of  the 
most  importan    States  of  the  T'^nion. 

Since  the  re  )eated  tests  by  which  the  Santiam  gold- 
bearing  quartz  has  been  found  to  yield  $160  to  the  ton, 
other  discoveries  have  been  made,  and  will  continue  to  be 
inade  in  the  Cascade  Moinitains.  Already  the  mining 
town  of  Quartzville  has  started  up  in  the  Santiam  district, 
and  another  town  called  Copperopolis,  about  ten  miles  to 
the  southeast  has  sprung  into  existence  near  the  copper 
mines.     Discoveries  of  gold  have  recently  been  made  in 


SOIL,    CLIMATK,    UEHOUIU'ES. 


681 


riackamas  County;  but  as  no  actual  test  has  yot  ])oon 
iiiiuU'  of  the  (quality  of  the  ores,  we  cannot  speak  of  their 
value. 

It  is  sufficioTit  to  say  that  enough  is  known  of  the  min- 
eral resources  of  Western  Oregon  to  warrant  the  invest- 
ment of  large  amounts  of  capital ;  and  that  discoveries 
luivc  only  just  begun  to  be  nuide. 

As  to  the  price  of  farming  lands  in  the  Wallamct  valley, 
thoy  vary  from  three  to  fifteen  dollars,  including  improve- 
ments. Many  excellent  forms  nuiy  be  had  at  from  throe 
tu  five  dollans  per  acre ;  the  owners  selling  out  in  order 
•to  remove  with  their  children  into  towns,  where  they  can 
bo  educated.  These  lands  in  a  few  years  will  be  worth 
fifty  dollars  per  acie,  and  we  trust  it  will  not  be  long  be- 
fore the  population  will  be  sufficiently  dense  to  insure 
"•ood  schools  throughout  the  State.  The  Oregon  Central 
Railroad,  now  in  course  of  construction,  will  do  much  to 
bring  out  the  resources  of  the  interior,  and  the  time  is  not 
(li!-taut  when  lands  in  Western  Oregon  will  bring  a  high 
price.  ■  ■  ■    > 

Sheep-rmsing  and  Manufacture  of  Vvoolen  Goods.  Wm. 
Lair  Hill,  in  his  prize  essay,  read  before  the  Oregon  State 
Fair,  for  18G2,  says:—  ).  ,  .... 

"  if  Orcnfon  has  a  specialty,  it  is  her  pre-eminence  as  a  wool-growing  coun- 
try. Until  recently,  very  little  attention  lias  been  paid  to  the  matter  of  sheep- 
raii-ing;  but  it  has  now  become  one  of  the  staple  interests  of  the  State.  Sheep 
tlirivc  better  here  than  in  .'(ny  other  State.  Disease  .amongst  them  is  e.xceed- 
inifly  rare.  They  increase  here  faster  than  in  the  east,  and  the  wool  is  of  ex- 
cellent quality." 

bi  a  similar  essay,  read  before  the  Oregon  State  Fair 
for  1863,  by  John  Minto,  Esq.,  the  following  passages  oc- 
cur:— 

"  For  tlic  health  of  sheep,  dry  upland  pasture  is  necessary.     Taking  the  whole 
of  Oregon  into  view,  nine-tenths  of  the  State  may  he  pronounced  of  that  char- 


5.r2 


WESTERN    OUE(iON. 


act('r.  lM)r  tim  I'ucilinj;  of  slu-cj)  tor  wool-riiif^in^  purposes,  short  sweet  mssei 
iitid  open  \v(K)(lliin(l  piisturi's  an'  (li-t'iiicil  brst ;  and  tiill  ihrei'-tinirths  of  tbt  siir- 
ikWM  uf  tliu  State  is  cutu|M)rtL>d  uf  liilU  uiid  plains  yi(;ldin}r  HU(;h  grasses;  ami  a 
larf^t-  portion  of  it  is  open  wuoilland.  For  tin- f^rowlli  of  a  loni^,  even,  stmn" 
and  lic.xililc  staplf  of  wool,  a  mild,  v.wu  cliniati-  (with  proper  tet'diri")  is  con- 
sidered  best,  and  that  Orejjon  possesses  in  a  rt'niarkable  dej^rec.  In  fact,  the 
t;lini!ile  and  natural  "grasses  of  Orej^on  seem  to  lie  a  natin'al  combination  of  the 
pceuliarities  of  Kngland  and  Spain,  in  tliost;  partieulars,  espoeially  tiie  t'liniate 

"  Over  twenty  years  a)j;o,  Mr.  I'eale,  a  naturalist  who  af('oni])anied  Commodore 
Wilkes'  expedition  to  this  coast  j^ave  it  as  his  ojjiniou  tliat '  the  country  would 
become  I'amcjus  for  its  jn-oductioa  of  fine  wool,'  for  the  reason  that  '  the  evi-niic^ 
of  the  clinuile  enables  tho  fur-bearing  animals  ti)und  lierc  to  carry  their  fine 
cov(!rin<;  during  the  summer  months,  whereas  under  greater  variations  between 
the  seasons,  the  same  animals  usually  shed  their  furs,  or  they  become  mixed 
with  luiir  during  sinunier ;'  and  lijr  the  further  reason  that  the  '  physical  geoOTa- 
phy  and  natural  grasses  of  the  country  make  it  a  natural  sheep  pasture,'         W 

"  Experience  goes  far  to  show  Mr,  Teale's  opinion  correct.  In  a  conversa- 
tion between  the  writer  and  Mr.  Henry  I'erkins,  Chief  Wool  Stapler  in  the 
woolen  factory  at  Salem,  (a  gentleman  who  lias  liad  a  large  and  varied  experi- 
ence in  assorting  wool,)  the  latter  said  that  he  had  never  handled  the  v^ool  from 
any  country,  which  as  a  whole,  was  equal  to  tliat  of  Oregon  as  a  combing  wool; 
and  that  during  a  term  of  three  years  as  wool  stapler  in  a  De  Lainc  factory  in 
Boston,  Mass.,  he  deemed  that  he  did  well  when  he  could  get  from  the  bulk  as- 
sorted 30  per  cent,  of  wool  fit  for  combing  and  manufacturing  into  that  fabric. 
Of  the  wool  he  was  then  receiving — the  crop  of  1863,  as  it  came  in  indis- 
criminately— Mr.  P.  saitl  he  could  get  from  .50  to  60  per  cent,  of  good  combing 
wool.  He  further  said  if  wools  were  properly  assorted  here  and  the  combing 
portion  graded  and  baled  and  marked  according  to  its  quality,  and  shipped  to 
New  Yorl,  or  Boston,  it  would  soon  draw  the  attention  of  De  Laine  manufac- 
turers to  ihis  country  as  a  source  of  supply  for  this  most  valuable  kind  of  wool. 
We  have  further  practical  proof  of  the  suj)eriority  of  Oregon  wool,  in  the  fact 
that  San  Francisco  papers  as  late  as  July  last,  quoted  Oregon  wool  as  selling 
three  cents  per  pound  above  California  wool  sold  on  the  same  day. 

"  The  fact  of  the  superiority  of  Oregon  wool  is  an  encouraging  circumstance 
to  those  engaged,  or  about  to  engage  in  raising  it.  But  they  will  never  reap 
tlie  full  benefit  of  it  so  long  as  they  allow  the  business  men  of  California  to  put 
their  crops  into  market :  so  long  as  this  is  the  case,  the  fact  will  be  used  to 
spread  the  fame  of  California,  as  a  wool-producing  country,  and  so  long  will 
Oregon  dwell  in  the  shadow  of  Caliiornia,  and  feel  the  blighting  influence, 
This  is  the  inevitable  result,  even  without  any  effort  on  the  part  of  California 
merchants.  It  goes  from  their  port  in  their  shipping  mart ;  the  buyer  cares 
no  more  but  to  know  that  he  is  receiving  a  good  article  for  his  money,  and 
it  would  be  too  much  to  expect  the  California  mercliant  to  inform  bis  customer 
that  it  was  the  product  of  another  state.    *    *    * 

"  The  success  of  the  woolen  manufactory  at  Salem,  started  under  more  ad- 
verse circumstances  than,  it  is  believed,  will  ever  again  exist  on  this  coast, 


NATCHAL    WKALTII    AND    HKSOmc^KS. 


rm 


.liinv)  pLiiiily  tliiit  a  Do  Liiiru'  factory  would  bo  cmincntl/  Biu'ccBsful  Ihto  wliure 
I     riicli  jjoiiils  arc  worn  tliroiiifho.it  tlm  yt-nr.* 

"Ami  tliiTf  is  no  doiilil  tliiit  tluTc  is  iii:iiiy  a  fanner  in  the  ^liiMIc  and  Wiist- 
,ni  Stiilcs  wIki,  worn  down  liy  tlif  dcldlitiitini;  inlliii'ncfs  ofiniiisnwitic  climaU-is 
wdiilil  <H't  a  ni'w  least'  of  lill!  by  clianj^in-?  his  hn-ation  and  beconiinjt  a  8ljec.|>- 
nii-ir  iiinlcr  llic  dear  skies  and  pure  air  of  KaNtvrn  ()rf<;on.     •     »     »     »     • 

•  Tluiv  are  at  present  more  prouiisinj;  inilueeuienlM  lor  the  ()re)i;on  Ihnner  to 
iiirii  iii^  attention  to  the  raisin;^  of  sheep  and  wool  (where  his  lands  are  of  a 
-iiiiable  kind,)  than  any  other  branch  of  farnun>;,  for  the  reasons:  1st.     That 
in  that  Dciupation   the  farrniT  can  ^ct  alonjj  witli  less  hired  'lelp,  which   is  al- 
ways iiard  to  j,'ct  of  a  reliable  kind,  and  will  continue  to  be,  ni  Ion;;  as  the  dis- 
i„v(iy  of  new  <rol(l  mines  continues.     2d.  Sheep  eat  nearer  to  the  ground  and 
a  pvMrv  variety  of  [dants,  and   consecpiently  re((nire   less  labor   in   jirovidini; 
liiiiii  liiod  than  any  other  domestic  animal  which  yields  anyihin;;  like  the  re- 
turn which  they  yield.     8d.  Tliere  are  two  [)roducts  from  sheej),  i()r  either  of 
iviiidi  there  is  a  ;;reater  pros[)ective  market  than  lor  any  other  farm  ))roduct 
wiuaii  raise.     We  have  already  <;lanced  at  tlu!  condition  of  the  market  with  re- 
;;anl  to  wool.     'It  is  the  only  thing  raised  by  the  farmers  of  Orcj^on  that  con- 
tains enough  value  in  proportion  to  its  weight  to  bear  the  expense  of  trans|)or- 
taiiiiu  to  the  Atlantic   States.     It  is  the  only  product  that  cannot  be  raised 
{■l:ca|icr  in  the  Atlantic  States  than  here.     It  is  the  only  product  of  the  soil  of 
()ri'\'on  (gold  excepted)  which  we  can  send  to  the  Eastern  seaboard  in  ex- 
(•i,an;;e  tor  the  clothing,  boots  and  shoes,  machinery,  iron,  etc.,  etc.,  which  we 
imist  buy  there  or  elsewhere  until  we  can  build  up  manutiU'tures  of  our  own.' 
Ami  manufactures  we  nuist  have,  unless  we  can  contentedly  remain  utterly  do- 
pendent  n[)on  the  manufacturing  skill  of  other  communities,  subject  to  the  in- 
conveniences of  interruption  in  time  of  war,  and  the  always  increasing  cost  of 
transjjorlation,  which,  as  the  producers  of  the  raw  material  and  consumers  of  the 
manufactured  article,  we  must  pay  all  the  cost  of,  according  to  the  amount  of 
our  consumjttion.     The  market  for  good  wool-bearing  stock  sheep  is  only  to  l>e 
measured  by  the  extent  of  the  country  yet  unoccupied  and  fit  tor  grazing  pur- 
poses lying  between  the  Pa<.'ific  Ocean  and  the  western  base  of  the  Ko<!ky 
Mountains.     Tlie  market  for  mutton  will  be  in  accordance  with  the  increase  of 
i;    Nation;  it  can  be  i)roduced  cheaper  and  will  always  sell  higher  than  beef 
mill  \\.''  country  is  glutted  with  wool-bearing  Hocks. 

'■  ( )r(' .  I  m  lies  on  the  western  edge  of  an  immense  extent  of  country — reach- 
ii  '  from  Mexico  to  the  British  line;  from  Kansas  to  the  Pacific  Ocean — which, 
with  the  exception  of  the  belt  between  the  Cascade  Mountains  and  the  ocean, 
covered  by  parts  of  California,  Oregon,  and  Washington  'J'erritory,  is  fitted  for 
pa  itoral  pursuits  only.  She  has  within  her  own  borders  a  large  j)ortion  of  tho 
best  of  that  natural  pasture.  Within  that,  and  almost  surrounded  by  it,  she 
has  the  largest  compact  body  of  good  wheat  land  on  the  Pacific  slojje ;  which, 


*  Since  the  above  was  written  a  large  factory  .at  Oregon  City  has  commenced 
manufactiu-ing  de  lalnes,  and  several  kinds  of  cloths. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
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snrro  in<ltd  and  intermingled  with  never-faiiing  water-power,  makes  the  Willa- 
mette Valley  adapted  by  nature  for  the  cheap  support  of  a  dense  uianuiacturinir 
population,  in  a  three-fold  greater  degree  than  ever  was  either  Old  or  Isew  Kne. 
land.  She  may,  if  her  citizens  will  it,  do  her  full  share  of  first  supplviuw  all 
the  region  drained  by  the  waters  of  the  (  olumbia  River  with  stock  sheep,  and 
then  manufacture  the  wool  raised  from  them  and  their  increase.  She  mav  be- 
eonio  to  the  north-west  coast  of  America  what  England  is  now  to  the  world 
and  what  New  England  is  to  the  United  States  in  the  power  of  their  manufac- 
tnrng  commerce — following  the  settlements  as  they  spread  to  the  East  and 
Korth  with  her  improved  stjck  and  woolen  fabrics." 

Since  Mr.  Minto  wrote  his  able  essay  on  Sheep  raising, 
further  facts  have  come  to  hght  concerning  the  quaUty  of 
wool  raised  in  the  Eastern  portion  of  Oregon.  It  lias 
been  well  ascertained  that  the  alkaline  properties  of  the 
grass  on  which  the  sheep  feed  in  some  portions  of  Eastern 
Oregon,  as  well  as  the  dust  which  settles  upon  them,  has 
a  deteriorating  effect  upon  the  wool ;  and  that  so  far  no 
good  fleeces  have  been  obtained  from  those  regions.  Un- 
doubtedly the  very  best  sheep-pastures  are  to  be  found  on 
the  Western  side  of  the  Cascade  Mountains ;  though  many 
valuable  sheep-ranges  may  yet  be  discovered  in  the  terri- 
tory lying  east  of  the  Cascades  and  west  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains. 

Timber  and  Lumber ing. — The  State  of  Oregon,  although 
in  reality  a  prairie  State,  has  immense  lumbering  resources. 
The  principal  timbers  made  into  lumber  are  the  firs  and 
cedars.  These  grow  along  the  streams  and  on  the  moun- 
tain ranges,  affording  fine  facilities  for  milling,  and  for 
exporting  lumber.  A  large  amount  of  lumbering  is  done 
along  the  coast,  at  Coos  Bay  and  Port  Orford.  All 
along  the  Columbia  River,  from  its  mouth  to  the  Dalles,  a 
distance  of  nearly  two  hundred  miles,  are  dense  forests  of 
the  most  magnificent  sized  trees,    which   make   superior 

lumber.       „v'  ,  ^  .  rvf^^  -.r-,- 

•^  ■•  The  exports  from  the  Columbia  River  are  about  4,000,- 
000  feet  annually,  which  find  a  market  at  San  Francisco, 


NATUilAL   WEALTH   AND   RESOURCES. 


535 


and  the  Sandwich  Islands,  chiefly.  The  lumber  trade  of 
Oro'njn  is  but  in  its  infancy,  being  capable  of  almost 
unlimited  development. 

Tarpeiituie^  Ta>%  and  Rosin. — Not  only  do  the  forests  of 
Oregon  furnish  exhaustless  supplies  of  lumber,  but  they 
ort'er  also  an  immense  source  of  wealth  to  the  enterprising 
manufacturer  of  turpentine,  tar,  and  rosin.  T.  A.  Wood 
&  Co.,  of  Portland,  who  are  engaged  in  manufacturing 
these  articles,  give  the  following  statement  on  this  subject: 

"  Every  day  more  fully  demonstrates  the  fact  that  the  supply  of  crude  tur- 
pontiiR'  is  inexhaustible,  and  the  probabilities  are  that  this  supply  will  never 
orrow  less,  from  two  facts : 

1st.  The  forests  best  suited  for  and  richest  in  balsam,  arc  those  rough  moun- 
tain sidi's  that  the  farmer  can  never  reduce  to  tilla<i;e. 

2il.  The  trees  when  robbed  of  their  accumulated  supi)ly  will,  like  the  "  busy 
lice,"  commence  the  work  of  replenishing  their  stores,  or  refilling  the  cavities 
or  '•  sli.ikcs,"  to  be  annually  or  semi-annually  robbed. 

From  the  crude  article  we  manufacture  turpentine,  pitch,  bright  varnish, 
ros'ii,  and  axle-grease.  In  the  limited  time  we  have  been  in  operation  we  have 
consumed  21,000  gallons  of  crude  balsam.  From  this  our  manufacture  will  ap- 
proximate :  turpentine,  5,000  gallons ;  pitch,  400  barrels ;  bright  varnish,  70 
barrels ;  axle-grease,  25  cases. 

AVe  claim  that  the  above  articles  are  equal  in  quality  to  any  manufactured  in 
the  United  States,  and  not  without  proof.  The  turpentine  being  made  from 
l)iilsam  of  fir,  is  as  far  superior  to  pine  turpentine,  for  medical  use,  as  fir  balsam 
is  superior  to  pine  pitch  for  medical  purposes.  The  Portland  physicians  who 
have  tried  it  speak  loudly  in  praise  of  its  medical  virtues. 

Undi'r  date  of  July  16  th,  1864,  Mr.  P.  C.  Dart,  of  San  Francisco,  says : 
"  Yo  ir  turpentine  is  now  preferred  over  California  make,  and  I  obtained  twenty- 
five  cents  on  tlie  gallon,  in  advance  of  the  California  article.  This  fact  is  cer- 
taiiilv  encoura<'ing'." 

The  boat  pitch  is  superior  to  any  ever  shipped  to  this  coast.  Capt.  Kellogg 
said  he  •  used  on  the  steamer  Senator  one  barrel  of  States  pitch  and  one  of 
Oreii;()n  pitch,  and  would  rather  by  one  hundred  dollars  have  used  all  Oregon 
]iiteh.  The  calkers  said  the  barrel  of  Oregon  pitch  was  worth  three  of  the 
States  pitch.' 

Though  our  business  has  not  been  verj'  extensive,  we  have  opened  a  trade 
with  China,  Sandwich  Islands,  Vancouver's  Island,  California,  and  arc  now 
niakino;  a  shipment  to  New  York.  It  is  our  intention  to  enlarge  our  works,  and 
if  we  do,  as  now  designed,  we  shall  export,  from  July  1865  to  July  1866,  over 
1,200  tons  of  manufactured  articles.  In  fact,  the  crude  turpentine  is  in  such 
abundance  as  to  supply  the  world,  if  brought  into  use." 


I  t' 


^'    .1 


4*!t 


536 


WESTERN   OREGO^. 


Fish  and  Fisheries. — Oregon  furnishes  some  of  the  fin- 
est  fisheries  in  the  world.  From  the  roaring  mountain 
torrent,  filled  with  the  beautiful  speckled  trout,  to  the 
largest  rivers,  and  the  ocean  bays,  all  its  waters  are  alive 
with  fish.  In  the  latter  are  found  cod,  sturgeon,  carp, 
flounders,  perch,  herring,  crabs,  and  oysters.  Tillamook 
and  Yaquina  Bays  are  the  principal  oyster  beds. 

All  the  rivers  along  the  coast  furnish  salmon,  the  largest 
being  taken  in  the  Columbia.  They  run  up  the  rivers  twice 
during  the  year,  commencing  in  May,  and  again  in  Octo- 
ber. Notwithstanding  their  great  numbers,  but  few  are 
taken  for  commercial  purposes,  although  100,000  barrels 
might  be  secured  annually,  and  sold  for  ten  dollars  per 
barrel. 

The  following  interesting  extract  is  from  Father  P.  J. 
De  Smet's  book  on  the  Oregon  Missions : 

"  My  presence  among  the  Indians  did  not  interrupt  their  fine  and  abundant 
fisliery.  An  enormous  basket  was  fastened  to  a  projecting  rock,  and  the  fincjt 
fish  of  the  Columbia,  as  if  by  fascination,  east  themselves  by  dozens  into  the 
snare.  Seven  or  eight  times  during  the  day,  these  baskets  were  examined,  and 
each  time  were  found  to  contain  about  two  himdred  and  fifty  salmon.  The  In- 
dians, meanwhile,  were  seen  on  every  projecting  rock,  piercing  the  fish  with  the 
greatest  dexterity. 

They  who  do  not  know  this  territory  may  accuse  me  of  exaggeration,  when  I 
aflirm,  that  it  would  be  as  easy  to  count  the  pebbles  so  profusely  scattered  on 
the  shores,  as  to  sum  up  the  number  of  different  kinds  of  fish  which  this  west- 
ern river  furnishes  for  man's  support ;  as  the  buffalo  of  the  north,  and  the  deer 
from  north  to  east  of  the  mountains  furnish  daily  food  for  the  inhabitants  of 
those  regions,  so  do  these  fish  supply  the  wants  of  the  western  tril)es.  One 
may  ibrm  some  idea  of  the  quantity  of  ■  aon  and  other  fish,  by  remarking,  that 
at  the  time  they  ascend  the  rivers,  all  the  tribes  inhabiting  the  shores,  choose 
favorable  locations,  and  not  only  do  they  find  abundant  nutriment  during  the 
seasim,  but,  if  diligent,  they  dry,  and  also  pulverize  and  mix  with  oil  a  sufficient 
quantity  for  the  rest  of  the  year.  Incalculable  shoals  of  salmon  ascend  to  the' 
river's  source,  and  there  die  in  shallow  water.  Groat  quantiti(!s  of  trout  and 
carp  follow  them  and  regale  themselves  on  the  spawn  deposited  by  the  salmon 
in  holes  and  still  water.  Tlie  fi)llowing  year  the  young  salmon  descend  to  the 
sea,  and  I  have  been  told,  (I  cannot  vouch  lor  the  authenticity.)  that  they 
never  return  until  the  fourth  year.  Six  different  species  arc  found  in  the 
Columbia." 


■p^ 


NATURAL    WEALTH    AND    RESOURCES. 


537 


om  Father  P.  J, 


Game.  The  game  of  Oregon  is  principally  Bear,  Pan- 
ther, Elk,  Deer,  Antelope,  Squirrel,  Geese,  Swan,  Ducks, 
Pheasants,  Grouse,  and  Quail.  In  the  Wallanict  Valley  are 
found  some  B')ar  and  Elk,  and  an  abundance  of  black  and 
white-tailed  Deer,  and  Geese  and  Ducks.  --         ♦ 

In  the  Umpqua,  Rogues  and  Claniet  valleys  are  found 
an  abundance  of  Elk,  Deer,  Antelope,  Geese,  and  Ducks. 
The  Deer  of  this  country  have  been  represented  by  some 
as  small  and  inferior.  Such  is  not  the  fiict.  The  meat  of 
the  Deer  of  Oregon  is  as  tender  and  delicious  as  the  Deer 
of  any  other  portion  of  the  United  States.  The  meat  of 
the  black-tailed  Deer  of  this  country  is  much  superior  to 
the  meat  of  the  white-tailed  Deer  of  New  York,  Pennsyl- 
vania, or  the  Western  States. 

Salt  The  salt  of  Oregon  is  obtained  from  springs,  and 
is  of  very  superior  quality.  The  springs  are  numerous  in 
the  western  part  of  Multnomah  County,  in  the  valley  of 
the  Lower  Wallamet,  in  Columbia  County,  adjoining,  and 
also  in  Douglas  County,  or  the  Umpqua  Valley.  Those  in 
Douglas  County  have  been  worked  for  some  time,  manu- 
facturing about  1,000  pounds  per  day,  which  being  con- 
sumed in  the  neighborhood  of  the  works,  does  not  offer 
itself  in  the  Portland  market ;  neither  would  the  distance 
and  difficulties  of  transportation  admit  of  its  seeking  a 
market  in  this  place.  There  may  be  other  springs  in  dif- 
ferent counties  worked  in  a  small  way.  The  salt  works 
lately  erected  in  the  Lower  Wallamet  Valley  are  situated 
half  way  between  Portland  and  St.  Helen,  at  the  foot  of 
the  hills  which  skirt  the  river,  and  about  half  a  mile  dis- 
tant from  it.  There  are  a  number  of  springs  in  this  local- 
ity, and  extending  along  near  the  base  of  this  range  of 
hills  from  12  to  20  miles.  Only  one  spring  is  used  at 
present  at  the  Wallamet  Salt  Works,  and  the  present 
works  are  only  experimental.     From  this  one  spring,  or 


'538 


WESTERN    OREGON. 


iTAH 


I     1 


\'-'- 

i  1 

:  t ... 

ifciii, 

well  (for  it  has  been  decptned  27  feet)  with  all  the  sur- 
face water  in  it,  and  with  only  one  furnace,  the  ccmpany 
have  been  making  from  500  to  700  pounds  of  salt  per  day 
that  probably  has  no  superior  in  any  part  of  the  world. 
It  crystalizes  with  a  handsome,  fine  grain ;  is  bright,  spark- 
ling and  as  white  as  snow.     It  is  entirely  free  from  lime 
or  any  deleterious  substance,  so  that  as  a  dairy  salt,  or  for 
curing  of  meats,  fish,  etc.,  it  is  of  th*?  very  best  quality. 
So  strong  are  its  preservative  qualities  that  dairymen  say 
they  need  use  only  two-thirds  as  much  of  it  as  of  Liverpool 
salt ;  and  the  Portland  butchers  who  have  used  it  declare 
it  worth  $10  more  per  ton  than  any  salt  in  the  market,— 
that  they  use  the  brine  over  and  over.     Its  quality,  then, 
is  perfectly  satisfactory,  and  the  company  are  about  erect- 
ing new  and  extensive  works  for  boiling,  beside  improv- 
ing the  saline  properties  of  the  water  in  the  springs  by 
boring  and  piping,  to  exclude  surface  or  any  other  fresh 
water. 

Coal.  That  there  will  be  found  to  be  a  large  supply 
of  coal  in  Oregon  is  beyond  a  doubt.  The  Coos  Bay 
coal  is  not  unknown  in  San  Francisco,  though  its  quality 
has  never  gained  for  it  much  of  a  reputation.  Other  de- 
posits have  been  discovered  on  the  coast  further  to  the 
north.  A  mine  is  now  being  worked  on  the  Cowlitz  river, 
six  or  eight  miles  from  its  junction  with  the  Colun  .la, 
which  bids  fair  to  supersede  in  merii  any  yet  discovered 
on  the  Pacific  Coast.  The  structure  and  appearance  of  the 
Oregon  coal  are  peculiar,  and  at  first  liable  to  mislead  the 
judgment  as  to  its  quality.  It  has  a  glossy  surface,  is 
rather  light  in  weight,  is  perfectly  clean  to  handle  and 
makes  no  soot  in  burning,  all  of  which  makes  it  a  pleasant 
fuel  for  grates  and  culinary  purposes.  It  also  lights  very 
readily,  burns  freely  in  the  open  air,  and  is  free  from  sul- 
phur.    It  shows,  or  appears  to  show,  a  woody  structure, 


NATURAL   WEALTH    AND    RESOUUCES. 


639 


nr 

o 


yet  is  a  hard  coal,  making-  an  intense  boat  and  holdin 
lire  for  many  hours.  When  burnt  it  emits  a  clear  wliite 
flame,  and  leaves  a  white  ash,  without  depositing  strong 
substances,  or  clinkers.  It  is  not  anthracite,  nor  bitumi- 
nous, though  nearly  as  hard  as  the  first,  and  quite  as  influm 
alile  as  the  latter.  Some  miners  call  it  cannel ;  some  say 
it  resembles  Scotch  splinth ;  but  altogether  it  is  easier  to 
say  wliat  it  is  not  than  what  it  is.  The  fossils  found  in 
connection  with  it  have  created  some  doubt  as  to  its  age, 
many  of  thera  seeming  to  belong  to  the  tertiary  period, 
while  others  evidently  are  palm  leaves. 

Iron.  Extensive  beds  of  iron  ore  of  a  very  pure  qual- 
ity are  known  to  exist  both  on  the  Wallamet  and  on  the 
Columbia  rivers.  Those  on  the  Wallamet  are  situated 
about  six  miles  south  of  Portland,  and  about  eighteen  above 
the  mouth  of  the  river.  Furnaces  were  erected  two  years 
since  by  a  Portland  Company,  who  after  sending  some 
iron  to  San  Francisco  pronounced  equal  to  the  Swedish 
iron,  have  stopped  manufacturing  on  account  of  some  dif- 
ficulty about  the  land  on  which  the  beds  are  situated,  or 
the  water-power  used  in  connection  with  it.  It  is  to  be 
hoped  that  the  entanglement,  from  whatever  cause  it  arises, 
will  soon  be  removed.  Very  extensive  beds  of  the  same 
kind  of  ore  are  found  on  the  Columbia  in  the  county  of 
that  name,  but  so  far  have  not  been  worked. 

Lead.  This  metal  is  found  in  abundance  in  southern 
Oregon,  and  in  the  Cascade  Mountains,  but  only  in  con- 
junction with  other  metals.  No  attempt  has  yet  been 
made  to  work  it  on  account  of  the  difficulty  of  separating 
the  ores,  and  its  low  price  in  the  market.  In  the  future, 
however,  it  will  be  brought  into  notice  along  with  other 
mineral  productions. 

Copper.  The  copper  mines  of  Oregon  have  never  yet 
been  worked,  yet  for  richness  and  favorable  location  they 
surpass  those  on  the  lower  coast.     This  metal  is  found  on 


li 


M.'^ 


if 


I!    '  il 


I 


540 


WESTERN   OREGON. 


•  I  r'  i  >  y 


tlio  Rof^uc,  Umpqua,  Coquille,  and  San tiam  rivers.  Those 
on  tlie  Cociuillo  are  tlic  most  favorably  situated  for  the 
sliipinent  of  ores.  Very  rich  mines  are  located  in  Joseph- 
ine county,  but  await  the  era  of  railroads  'for  their  devel- 
opment. 

Gold  and  Silver.  Gold  is  found  in  paying  quantities  on 
the  Umpqua,  Rogue,  and  Illinois  rivers,  and  their  tributa- 
ries ;  on  the  sea-beach  at  the  mouth  of  the  Umpqua  and 
Coquille  rivers,  and  at  various  places  along  the  coast.  But 
the  richest  mines  have  been  discovered  in  a  district  called 
the  Santiam  from  the  river  of  that  name,  about  seventy 
miles  east  of  Salem,  in  the  center  of  the  State.  The  ore 
from  these  mines  assays  from  $20  to  $10,000  per  ton. 
Silver  is  also  found  in  connection  with  it. 

Oregon  has  never,  until  within  the  last  five  years,  been 
known  as  a  mineral  region.  The  character  of  the  early 
settlers  predisposing  them  to  agricultural  pursuits  caused 
them  to  overlook  the  possible  mineral  wealth  of  the  terri- 
tory, even  after  the  breaking  out  of  the  gold  excitement 
in  California  had  made  known  to  the  world  the  existence 
of  rich  mineral  deposits  on  the  Pacific  coast.  Those 
who  were  taken  with  the  gold  fever  went  to  California, 
leaving  unexplored  the  country  nearer  home.  Gradually, 
however,  and  little  by  little,  it  became  known  that  there 
were  deposits  of  the  precious  metals  in  Oregon.  Placer 
diggings  in  Southern  Oregon  and  along  the  coast  began 
-to  be  worked  as  early  as  1851-2.  Copper,  iron,  and  coal 
"were  discovered,  but  with  the  exception  of  the  coal  mines 
near  the  sea-coast,  remained  unworked. 

Meanwhile  gold  continued  to  be  discovered  on  every 
side,  in  British  Columbia,  Washington  Territory,  and  Ida- 
ho, while  Oregon,  ever  slow  and  deliberate  amidst  the 
.  hurry  of  events,  made  no  effort  to  unveil  the  mysteries  of 
her  bosom.     In  1861,  the  mines  of  Idaho  were  discovered 


NATURAL    WEALTH   AND    RESOURCES. 


541 


at  the  moiitli  of  Oro  Fino  Creek  by  E.  D.  Pierce,  an  Indi- 
an tmdor,  at  the  head  of  a  prospecting  j)arty  of  ten  men. 
The  excitement  which  followed  the  published  accounts  of 
these  mines,  caused  a  rush  of  explorers  in  that  region  of 
country  now  known  as  Idaho,  which  resulted  in  the  dis- 
covery of  gold  on  the  head-waters  and  tributaries  of  the 
Clearwater. 

Among  these  adventurers  were  numbers  from  the  Wal- 
ianiet  valley,  who  in  crossing  the  country  east  of  the  Cas- 
ciule  range,  made  the  discovery  of  placer  diggings  on  the 
John  Day,  Powder,  and  Burnt  rivers,  in  Eastern  Oregon. 
In  18G4,  quartz  leads  were  also  discovered  on  Eagle  creek 
between  Powder,  and  Burnt  rivers;  anii  towns  are  already 
built  on  each  of  these  rivers.  Thus  was  Oregon  at  last 
revealed  to  the  world  as  a  mineral  district,  unsurpassed  in 
riehncss  by  very  few  districts  in  the  world. 

Building  Materials.  The  mountains,  in  which  are  proba- 
bly deposited,  quarries  of  different  kinds  of  building  stone, 
have  been  but  little  prospected  with  a  view  to  the  discov- 
ery of  these  materials  for  substantial  structures.  Lumber 
has  been  so  abundant,  cheap,  and  excellent  in  quality, 
that  it  has  been  unnecessary  to  search  out  the  treasures 
contained  in  the  bosom  of  the  earth.  There  is  no  lack, 
however,  of  stone  suitable  for  masonry  ;  nor  of  clay  to 
make  (excellent  brick.  Limestone  deposits  exist  in  the 
Ilmpqua  valley,  in  the  hills  back  of  the  Clatsop  Plains,  in 
the  highlands  back  of  the  Tualatin  Plains,  and  in  other 
parts  of  the  Wallamet  valley,  and  aiong  the  Columbia 
river,  especially  near  its  mouth.  Southern  Oregon  fur- 
nishes numerous  fine  ledges  of  the  best  crystalline  marble, 
susceptible  of  the  highest  polish.  Sandstone  occurs  in  the 
Coast  range  of  mountains. 

Baric  for  Tanning  Leather.  The  forests  and  plains  of 
Oregon  furnish  an  unlimited  supply  of  oak,  fir,  and  hem- 


li 


ti: 


1^ 
III 


>•(<*«; 


512 


WESTERN   OREGON. 


I     I 


!       I 


5: 
J, 


lock  bark,  suitable  for  tanning  purposes,  while  the  exten- 
sive pastures  of  the  State  can  keep  supplied,  jnlimited 
quantities  of  hides  for  manufacturing  leather. 

Grain  Raisimj  and  Flour  Making.  The  production  of 
wheat  must  over  remain  one  of  the  greatest  resources  of 
the  State.  Surrounded  on  every  side  by  pasture  lands, 
Oregon  has  "  the  largest  compact  body  of  good  wheat  land 
on  the  Pacific  slope,  which  surrounded  and  intermingled 
with  never-failing  water-power,  makes  the  Wallamet  val- 
ley adapted  by  nature  for  the  cheap  manufacture  of  bread- 
stuffs."  •:  .. 

Wheat  yields  an  average  of  thirty  bushels  to  the  acre, 
and  in  cases  of  good  cultivation  nearly  double  that  amount, 
Oats,  fifty  to  seventy-five  bushels  to  the  acre.  Other 
grains  in  proportion  ;  and  all  kinds  of  pulse  equally  well. 

Flax  and  Hemp.  Flax  and  hemp  grow  to  a  great  size, 
and  produce  a  better  fibre  than  in  any  other  country. 
Flax  yields  a  large  amount  of  seed,  and  an  oil-mill  would 
do  well  in  this  State.  There  is  no  reason  why  linen 
goods  may  not  be  profitably  manufactured  in  Oregon. 

Tobacco.  Tobacco  has  been  grown  in  Oregon,  equal 
to  the  best  Virginia  leaf  Eastern  Oregon  is  peculiarly 
fitted  for  the  cultivation  of  this  plant ;  and  only  experi- 
enced hands  to  cure  it  are  wanted,  to  make  the  Oregon 
tobacco  as  celebrated  as  any  in  the  United  States. 

Hops.  The  rainless  summers  of  this  country,  together 
with  the  absence  of  heavy  dews,  make  it  very  favorable 
for  hop-raising.  The  crop  is  always  certain,  and  may  be 
cured  in  the  open  air.  Hops  will  become  one  of  the  reg- 
ular exports  of  the  State. 

Fruits — Preserving.  The  great  and  steady  fruit-crops 
of  Oregon,  together  with  the  abundance  of  berries  grow- 
ing wild  in  all  parts  of  the  State,  offer  superior  induce- 
ments for  the  establishment  of  preserving  houses  in  the 


KASTKK.V    ()1U:(".()\. 


513 


while  the  exton- 
plied,  anlimited 
ler. 

e  production  of 
est  resources  of 
y  pasture  lands, 
^ood  wheat  land 
II d  intermingled 
3  Wallamet  val- 
facture  of  bread- 

[lels  to  the  acre, 
ble  that  amount, 
le  acre.      Other 
Ise  equally  well. 
•  to  a  great  size, 
'■  other  country. 
m  oil-mill  would 
ason  why  linen 
1  in  Oregon. 
I   Oregon,  equal 
on  is  peculiarly 
-nd  only  experi- 

ake  the  Oregon 

States. 

untry,  together 
very  favorable 

ain,  and  may  be 

one  of  the  reg- 

eady  fruit-crops 
f  berries  grow- 
uperior  induce- 
houses  in  the 


Wiilliimot  valley.  No  such  cstablislnnont  exists,  thoun-h 
the  miners  away  up  in  Idaho  buy  fruits  preserved  in  tho 
Atlantic  States  and  (^Uifoniia. 

Jlunet/.  It  is  but  about  five  years  since  bees  were  in- 
troduced into  Oregon.  They  thrive  well,  and  produce  a 
Iari:'e  amount  of  honey. 

J'ofafovfi  and  Vcyt'tdblea.  Potatoes  are  excellent  in  this 
State,  and  yield  abundantly;  from  throe  hundred  to  four, 
or  oven  six  hundred  bushels  Ijeing  grown  on  an  acre  of 
LTonnd.  The  very  best  cabbages  in  the  world  are  grown 
ill  Oregon,  and  in  great  numbers.  The  same  maybe  said 
of  Ciiulitiower.  Melons  and  8{juashes  do  well,  growing  to 
a  frroat  size.  Onions,  like  cabbage  are  very  superior  in 
this  soil  and  climate,  being  mild  and  sweet  to  a  degree 
unknown  in  the  Eastern  States.  All  other  vegetables  and 
riKifs  thrive  well,  and  are  of  good  quality, 

III  short,  if  an  Oregon  farmer  does  not  enjoy  the  com- 
forts of  life,  he  has  no  one  to  blame  except  himself  for  the 
lack  of  these  things.  '  '       "       ■'    ' 

Eastrhn  Oregon  was  long  regarded  as  a  desert  country, 
nnl)lcs.sed  by  God  and  undesired  by  man.  That  was 
wlicn  the  emigration  to  Oregon,  coming  overland  all  the 
way  from  Indiana,  Illinois,  Missouri,  and  more  southern 
States,  arrived  at  the  South  Pass  of  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
with  stock  and  provisions  more  than  half  exhausted,  to 
enter  upon  a  country  not  only  more  rugged  in  appearance 
than  that  already  passed  over,  but  presentin-j  new  fea- 
tures and  new  characteristics,  against  which,  from  igno- 
rance of  the  facts,  they  had  failed  to  prepare  themselves. 
They  found,  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  a  totally  differ- 
ent climate  from  any  they  had  over  experienced  :  delight- 
ful enough  in  summer,  on  the  mountains,  but  hot  and  dry 
on  the  plains.  Their  road  led  them  over  bare  rocks,  re- 
flecting strongly  the  heat  of  a  cloudloss  sky ;  over  sands 
35 


544 


EA.^TEllN    OKECION. 


r 


- ) 


buniiii^^  lu)t,  and  terribly  hoavy  for  their  teams;  over 
all<ali  (loHortH,  which  they  knew  not  how  to  uvuic,  and 
poHt  boiinifj;  s[)rin«,^s  whose  (li.sagreea])]e  fumes  lillcd  the 
air.  They  were  too  weary  to  bring  Miueh  ener<;y  to  tiio 
overcoming  of  such  (bflicullics  as  fell  in  tlicir  way,  and 
'  too  discouraged  with  these!  dilliculties  to  be  fairly  ihiuikfid 
for  the  occasional  oases  which  beautified  tluiir  (h'sert;  so 
that,  when  once  they  had  set  foot  within  the  ever-vordiint 
valleys  west  of  the  Cascade  range,  the  tawny  colored  liills 
and  plains  of  bhdio  and  Eiustern  Oregon — then  all  Ore|,njn 
Territory — were  remembered  only  as  ''  that  God-fursakcn 
country."  A  few  emigrants  and  travelers  were  i>.telligcnt 
enough  to  observe  the  evidences  of  extensive  mineral  de- 
posits, but  most  of  these  never  looked  forward  to  seeinf; 
this  country  occupied,  and  its  minerals  made  the  source 
of  wealth.  And  least  of  all  did  they  foresee  that  much, 
very  much,  of  this  "God-forsaken  country"  would  prove 
to  be  of  wonderful  fertility,  so  that,  in  the  year  18G9, 
many  portions  of  it  have  "  blossomed  like  the  rose." 
Such,  at  all  events,  is  the  history  of  Eastern  Oregon. 

There  is,  ijjidoubtedly,   a  large  proportion  of  waste 
lands  in  this  part  of  the  State.     There  are  alkali  plains 
'  and  sage  deserts,  and  in  some  parts,  bare  rocks  coming  to 
the  surface.     The  alkali  plains  may  never  be  made  fit  for 
•  cultivation.     The  sage  deserts  are  not  quite  so  hopeless, 
'  as  some  portions  of  them  have  been  found  susceptible  of 
'-  cultivation  in  California,  and  they  may  not  prove  to  be  so 
'-  worthless  as  has  been  believed;  but  the, rocks  are  afore- 
gone  conclusion.  •  ■•'   ■•-"  ■-'-.,^ 

In  Eastern  Oregon,   Eastern  Washington,  and  Idaho, 

'-'■  the  same  general  aspect  of  country  prevails,  except  in 

the  most  northern  portions  of  the  two  latter  Territories, 

■  which    are    more   heavily   timb'   ;  i,    and    rather    better 

.  watered.     But  south  of  parallc;   i  /,  and  between  the  Cas- 


m 


EASTERN    OREGON. 


545 


oado  Moiintiiins  and  the  westernmost  divide  of  the  Tloeky 
Mnuiitiiins,  the  conntry  consists  entirely  of  high  rolling' 
pliiiiis  destitute  of  timber,  and  mountain  ridges  covered 
wil'i  timber;  with  the  exception,  however,  of  depressions 
between  the  mountains  and  high  tablelands,  wlun-e  lakes 
and  niiirshcs  may  sometime?  ^9  found.  The  soil,  ))()th  of 
tlu;  plains  and  the  mountains,  i .  excellent.  lUit  a  small 
portion  of  the  plains  will  evor  be  cultivated,  for  \v;int  of 
tlic  moans  of  irrigation,  ^i  o  they  will  prove  very  valuable 
fur  stock-raising  purposes,  as  they  are  covered  with  a 
natural  growth  of  excellent  bnnch-grass.  The  mountain- 
sides, when  cleared,  will  })roduce  fruit  of  the  best  ((uality; 
but  it  is  n])on  the  valley  lands  that  the  firmer  Avill  cliiefly 
depcMd  for  his  grain-fields.  There  is  no  reason  evident 
why  grapes  should  not  do  well  east  of  the  Cascades  in 
Oregon.  The  soil  and  climate  are  quite  similar  to  those 
of  California,  where  the  grape  flourishes  best.  Corn 
fjrows  well  in  the  valleys,  and  other  grains  and  vegetables 
produce  renmrkably  Avell.  It  is  worthy  of  menti(^n  here, 
that,  at  the  late  agricultural  fair  in  Eastern  Oregon,  the 
})roniium  for  some  kinds  of  vegetables  was  awarded  to  an 
Indian  farmer  of  the  Umatilla  tribe.    Mm  ^ifm  m  -oti'Si 

Eastern  Oregon  is  crossed  obliquely  by  the  chain  of  the 
Blue  Mountains,  which  commence  about  at  the  eastern 
boimdary  of  Washington  Territory,  where  the  Snake 
River  bends  to  the  south,  and  take  a  course  southwest 
to  near  the  centre  of  Eastern  Oregon,  where  they  bend 
more  to  the  west,  until  they  connect  with  the  range  of 
highlands  along  the  Dep  Chutes  River,  which  runs  be- 
tween these  hills  and  the  Cascade  range.  Where  the 
Blue  Mountains  cross  the  State,  they  form,  with  the  spurs 
which  they  send  out  to  the  east  and  south,  the  divide, 
or  water-shed  between  the  waters  which  flow  into  the 
Columbia  and  those  which  flow  into  the  numerous  lakes 


546 


EASTERN    OREGON. 


S  . 


r 
■ 

i 
i 

1 

■        1 

1 

i 

.Ji  ; 


of  the  Oregon  portion  of  the  Great  Basin,  or  sink  into 
thirsty  sands.  •---..-, 

The  scenery,  the  geology,  and  topography  of  this  por- 
tion of  Oregon  (the  Khimath  Basin)  are  alike  remarkable. 
The  irregular  hills,  covered  with  burnt  rock  and  scoriae; 
the  fearful  chasms,  and  sharp,  needle-shaped  rocks  of  its 
basaltic  mountains;  its  mysterious  reservoirs  of  water; 
its  salt  lakes  and  alkaline  plains,  seem  to  mark  it  for  a 
country  uninhabitable  by  man,  and  the  resort  only  of 
myriads  of  wild-fowl,  which  here  hatch  their  young  in 
safety,  and  the  refuge  of  marauding  Indians  who  retire 
here  after  a  successful  raid  into  the  settlements.  Yet  it 
will  not  be  left  to  these,  for  the  explorer  and  surveyor  are 
already  traversing  it  everywhere,  and  roads  are  being 
opened  in  various  directions,  connecting  with  the  mines 
of  Idaho,  and  with  the  towns  and  mines  near  the  Colum- 
bia River.  Nor  will  it  be  found  unfit  for  settlement.  In 
many  parts  are  very  desirable  places  for  farms  or  stock- 
raising  ;  while  the  excellence  of  the  routes  which  lead 
across  the  southern  portion  of  Oregon,  for  the  use  of  the 
emigration  and  traders  to  the  mines,  over  those  which 
cross  near  the  Columbia  River,  will  make  every  available 
section  of  land  desirable  for  settlement. 

The  Great  Basin  consists  of  an  elevated  plateau,  raised 
five  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  ocean,  and  vary- 
ing in  surface  between  low  hills,  arid  plains,  marshes,  salt 
and  fresh  lakes,  and  occasional  fertile  valleys.  It  is 
bounded  by  the  Cascade  Mountains  on  the  west,  whose 
foot-hills,  covered  with  a  beautiful  growth  of  pine,  extend 

•  away  nearly  to  the  eastern  border  of  Klamath  Lake ;  on 
the  north  by  the  divide  of  the  Blue  Mountains;  and  on 
the -east  by  another  low  range  of  mountains.  To  the 
south  it  extends  into  California,  Nevada,  and  Utah. 

"*     The  following  extracts  from  the  report  of  Col.  C.  S, 


THE    KLAMATH    BASIN. 


547 


Drew,  1st  Oregon  Cavalry,  who  made  a  reconnoisance 
tlirough  Southern  Oregon  to  Fort  Boise,  in  the  summer 
of  18()4,  will  furnis^^  an  idea  of  the  cultivable  country 
between  Fort  Klamath  and  Fort  Boise  :  . 

AVillianison's  River  takes  its  rise  in  Klamath  marsh, — or,  as  the  Indians 
claiiii.  in  Klamath  Lake  proper, — and  riuinin<^  in  a  southerly  course  about 
tliirty  miles  emjjties  into  the  east  side  of  Bi<,'  Klamath  Lake,  sixteen  miles 
south  of  Fort  Klamath.  It  is  a  considerable  river — at  the  ford  probably  one 
hundred  yards  wide.  It  is  somewhat  alkaline,  and  rendered  more  unpalatable 
from  havinir  its  source  in  swamps  and  tule  marshes.  The  crossing  is  over  a 
lidije  of  volcanic  sandstone  extending  entirely  across  the  river  and  into  the 
banks  on  either  side.  The  greatest  depth  of  water  is  about  three  feet,  and 
this  only  for  about  ten  yards.  From  this  ledge  the  water  falls  about  two  feet 
into  a  deep  eddy  below. 

The  soil  immediately  along  the  river,  is  a  dark,  sandy  loam,  but  changes  to 
a  lifiht  granite,  or  volcanic  ash,  as  we  approach  the  uplands  and  mountains  on 
litlu-r  side. 

The  country  between  Fort  Klamath  and  the  ford  of  Williamson's  Kiver  is 
covered  with  a  fine  forest  of  yellow  and  sugar  pine,  with  now  and  then  a  wliite 
or  red  fir,  and  occasionally  a  good  sized  cedar,  cotton-wood,  or  rather  aspen,  is 
fri'i[Uont  around  the  glades  and  along  the  smaller  streams.  Tliere  are  also 
small  forests  and  thickets  of  a  species  ot  pine  having  as  yet  no  popular  name, 
and  seeuiin'ly  peculiar  to  the  Cascade  Mountains.  Fort  Klamath  is  built 
ill  a  beautiful  grove  of  them,  and  they  cover  the  sinnmit  of  the  Cascade  Moun- 
tains along  the  northern  base  of  Mount  M'Laughlin,  where  the  road  crosses 
bi'tween  Fort  Klamath  and  Jacksonville. 
********** 

S])rague's  River  Valley  is  about  forty  miles  long,  and  from  two  to  fifteen 
miles  wide.  Its  general  direction  is  from  southeast  to  northwest.  The  banks 
of  the  river,  and  of  the  numerous  streams  putting  into  it  on  either  side,  are 
fringed  with  willows  and  cotton-wood,  and  the  entire  valley  is  skirted  with  a 
continuous  forest  of  yellow  pine,  extending  back  to  tlie  summit  of  the  moun- 
tains by  which  it  is  bounded.  It  possesses  all  the  natural  requisites  for  a  good 
stork  range,  its  low  lands  being  covered  with  a  fair  growtli  of  marsh  grasses, 
wliile  its  uplands  aiTord  a  bountiful  supply  of  the  more  nutritious  bunch-grass, 
with  an  occasional  spot  of  wild  timothy. 

Till-  soil  here  is  a  dark,  sandy  loam,  growing  lighter  and  somewhat  gravelly 
towards  the  mountains.  Outcroppings  of  lava  and  other  volcanic  products  are 
ginei'al,  but  there  iire  many  tracts  of  land  that  oiler  eligible  farm  sites,  and 
could  he  easily  cultivated. 

Tlie  climate  is  similar  to  that  of  Fort  Klamath,  but  the  soil  is  quick  and  veg- 
etation matures  early. 

Wild  flax  grows  here  so  abundantly  that  in  many  places  it  presents  the  ap- 


I 


548 


EASTERN    OREGON. 


I       I 


I      ! 


1 

i 
1 

1 

\r 


pearance  of  tolerably  fair  cultivation,  and  proclucos  a  fine  stron";  fihrc.  The 
Btalk  si'cins  to  sprinjj;  from  its  root  and  contituics  to  grow  until  t-hockiul  by  the 
frosts  of  autumn.  In  this  way  it  seems  probable  that  the  old  root  retains  sub- 
stance onoujrh  durin<r  the  winter  to  send  out  new  shoots  in  the  spring.  »  *  » 

"Passing  out  of  l^^prague's  river  valley  in  a  southeasterly  direetion,  we  crossed 
the  (ioose  Lake  Mountains  through  a  wide  and  smooth  gap,  and  by  an  easy 
giade,  and  entered  a  small  fine  valley  situated  to  the  westward  of  the  northern 
extremity  oi"  the  valley  around  the  upper  portion  of  Goose  Lake,  but  having  an 
outlet  into  it  sjme  distance  down  its  western  border. 

"  This  little  valley  is  .about  fitieen  miles  long,  having  a  general  direction  from 
north  to  south,  and  has  an  extreme  width  of  about  eight  miles.  It  has  a  south- 
ern exposure  and  a  i'ertile  soil.  Its  surroundings  on  the  north,  east,  and  west 
are  timber-covered  mountains,  while  a  low  range  of  grass-covered  hills  bound  it 
on  the  southward,  separating  it  from  the  basin  of  Goose  Lake.  It  is  well  wa- 
tered by  several  mountain  streams,  and  by  springs,  fringed  with  willow,  and  in 
some  places  with  the  cotton-wood,  and  is  covered  with  a  luxuriant  growth  of 
grass.  Its  soil  excels  that  of  Sprague's  ri\er  valley  in  its  general  adaptation  to 
agricultural  purposes.     *     »     *     * 

"  From  a  point  on  the  east  side  of  the  little  valley  into  which  wc  had  entered, 
and  about  twelve  miles  ti'om  its  head,  we  diverged  to  the  eastward,  and  passing 
over  some  low  grassy  hills  and  along  the  bank  of  a  small  mountain  stream  run- 
ning in  a  southeasterly  direction,  we  descended  into  Goose  Lake  basin  by  a  very 
easy  grade,  through  a  renuirkably  smooth  depression  in  its  western  rim. 

*'  From  this  pass  to  the  head  of  Goose  Lake,  the  first  four  miles  was  across  a 
sage  desert  that  extends  southward  down  the  western  border  of  the  lake  as  far 
as  the  eye  can  see. 

"  From  tliis  desert  to  the  head  of  Goose  Lake  the  surface  of  the  country  is 
undulating,  though  from  any  considerable  distance  it  has  the  appearance  of  be- 
ing entirely  level. 

"  The  uplands  arc  generally  covered  with  a  luxiiriant  growth  of  bun  ch-grass, 
but  in  many  places  the  outcropping  of  lava  renders  them  unfit  for  other  than 
grazing  purposes.  For  these,  however,  they  excel  any  portion  of  the  country 
yet  j)assi'd  over. 

"  The  lowlands  along  the  numerous  little  streams,  all  putting  in  from  the 
northward  and  converging  towarils  the  head  of  the  lake,  but  generally  sinking 
before  they  reiU'h  it,  are  extremely  fertile,  and  well  adapted  for  cultivation.  A 
email  jx)rti(ju  of  them,  bordering  imm:;diately  on  the  lake,  are  somewhat  alka- 
line, but  produce  in  many  places  an  excellent  growth  of  rye-grass,  and  other 
TCgetatiou  incident  to  a  moderate  alkali  region. 

"  The  valley  is  beautifully  studded  with  large  willows  and  some  cotton-wood 
that  fringe  its  streams,  and  timber  of  good  quality  is  abundant  and  easy  of  ac- 
cess around  its  northern  extremity  and  down  along  its  eastern  border. 

"  'Ilie  main  portion  of  the  valley,  from  its  northern  extremity  down  to  the 
lake,  is  about  twenty  miles  in  length,  and  from  the  Sierra  Nevada  Mountains 
which  bound  it  on  the  east  to  its  western  rim,  the  distance  is  nearly  the  same. 


iJOOSE   LAKE   VALLEY. 


549 


^1" 


III  this  area  is  contained  the  most  viiluable  agricultural  land  of  the  Goose  Lake 


jasin. 


"Along  till!  eastern  shore  of  the  lake,  however,  there  is  considerable  good 
grazing  comitrv,  with  an  occasional  tract  of  good  fanning  land,  covered  with 
luxuriant  wild  clover  in  addition  to  all  the  wild  grasses  coiunion  to  the  fertile, 
poriions  of  tlu!  country. 

■•Numerous  creeks  and  springs  of  good  water  put  into  the  east  side  of  the 
hikr  t'roni  the  Sieira  Nevada  Mountains. 

'•Timber  is  also  abundant  along  the  base  of  the  Sierras,  vip  their  ravines,  and 
in  mimy  i)laces  up  their  sides  to  the  summit. 

'•  in  the  way  of  game,  antelope  and  deer  are  quite  plenty,  and  '  old  bruin '  is 
met  occasionally.  Sand-hill  cranes,  ducks  of  every  variety,  curlew,  iind  all 
otliiT  li)wls  incident  to  California,  ar>  abundant  throughout  this  region,  and 
along  the  streams  iu  the  upper  portion  of  the  valley  we  saw  numerous  '  siorns ' 
of  otter. 

■•  The  lake  is  emphatically  alkaline,  but  abounding  with  fish  near  its  main  in- 
lets. Its  surface  is  beautifully  dotted  everywhere  with  Hocks  -f  swan,  resem- 
blins,  through  mirage,  so  many  fleets  under  sail. 

'•  Jlirage  exists  here  to  about  the  same  extent  that  it  does  in  and  around  San 
Jose  valley,  Califijrnia.     *     *     *     * 

'•Snrjjrise  Valley  is  a  long,  narrow  strip  of  land,  stretched  along  the  eastern 
foot-hills  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  mountains,  and  sloping  down  into  alkaline  lakes, 
and  the  sand  and  sage  desert  that  forms  its  eastern  boundary.  These  foot-hills 
and  the  lower  portions  of  the  spurs  are  generally  covered  with  a  bountiful 
growth  of  bunch-grass,  while  between  many  of  them,  and  sometimes  extending 
ont  around  them  toward  the  dreary  waste  to  the  eastward,  are  small  tracts  of 
excellent  tillage  land,  covered  with  grass,  rushes,  and  spots  of  clover  and  wild 
pea-vine.  It  is  well  watered  by  springs  and  streams  putting  down  from  the 
Sierras,  but  these  usually  sink  on  reaching  the  level  of  the  lakes,  and  the  sage 
fields  into  which  they  flow. 

'•  Timber  pine  is  abundant  along  the  Sierras,  and  of  fair  quality.  Game  of 
all  kinds  common  to  Calitornia,  seems  to  be  plenty. 

The  Red  Bluff  Independent  has  the  following  of  Sur- 
prise Valley. 

"Tlie  prospects  of  the  settlers  are  of  the  most  flattering  description.  There 
are  about  one  hundred  families  now  settled  down  as  industrious  farmers,  besides 
a  large  floating  population  from  the  Owyhee  and  Puebla.  Tlie  recent  opening 
of  communication  with  Red  Blnfl"  as  a  place  at  which  they  can  obtain  supplies 
has  stimulated  them  to  further  enterprise,  as  they  have  been  heretofore  almost 
shut  out  from  the  rest  of  the  world;  but  now  they  are  sending  in  theii  teams 
for  their  winter  supplies  and  purchasing  more  advantageously  in  Red.  Bluff 
than  at  Susanville,  and  they  say  the  road  is  about  as  near  to  Red  Bluff  as  it  is 
tu  Susanville.     A  party  of  fifteen  teams  are  expected  in  here  this  week.    ITwt 


■■■•J!  li 


r  I 


550 


EASTERN    OllEGON. 


nu  -^ 


I       ■■! 


B'.iJwoll,  which  is  estabashed  at  the  north  end  of  the  valley,  is  nam»d  after 
Gen  JdIiii  Bidwdl,  our  repi-esciitativi-  in  C'on;:r('ss.  and  is  loeated  in  Diie  ol'the 
finest  natural  loeations.  T*<ear  the  new  post  are  two  sprin<;s  of  water,  the  one 
hot  and  the  other  cold.  'Hie  hospital  is  locaU-d  between  these  two  springs,  and 
so  situateil  that  hot  and  eokl  ballis  eati  be  had  at  all  hours.  In  I'act,  the  water 
'hot  and  cold)  will  be  conducted  throughout  the  whole  »;arrison.  The  health 
of  the  valley  is  excellent,  and  settlers  say  they  prefer  it  to  the  Sacramento  val- 
ley. The  last  year's  crop  of  barley  has  been  disposed  cf  to  the  .^oldiers  at  3('. 
per  pound.  Already  parties  have  been  talking  of  machinery  for  a  grist  mill  to 
be  put  up  next  spring.  /      ^     ' 

'*  Warner's  Valley  is  similar  to  .Surprise  Valley  in  point  of  location,  form,  and 
general  character.  Its  dii-ection  is  from  south  to  north.  The  Sierras  form  it-; 
western  boundary  for  a  distance  of  about  fifteen  miles  from  its  souihcrn  ex- 
tremity, thence  receding  to  the  westward,  and  leaving  a  volcanic  table  to  ton- 
tinne  Us  border  northward. 

"Springs  and  streams  arc  fonnd  at  convenient  distances  along  the  base  of  the 
Sierras,  and  two  or  more  streams  find  (heir  way  from  the  same  source,  throuoh 
deep  cha?ms  in  the  table  that  continues  its  western  rim." 

Such  are  some  of  the  oases  in  the  most  desert  part  of 
Eastern  Oref,^on.  The  explorations  ah'eady  made  have 
demonstrated  the  fact  that  there  is  much  mineral  in  the 
mountains  in  this  portion  of  Oregon,  a  circumstance  which 
must  lead  to  its  further  exploration  by  experienced  mi- 
ners. A  military  road  is  being  built  from  a  point  in  the 
neighborhood  of  Diamond  Peak  to  a  point  in  the  Owyhee 
country,  which  w^ill  probably  become  the  popular  emigrant 
road  from  the  east  into  the  Walhimet  valley.  The  Red 
Bluff  route  to  Idaho  City  crosses  this  country,  Cuicring  it 
at  Goose  Lake  Valley.  Also  a  road  from  Yrcka,  Califor- 
nia, to  Canyon  City  on  the  John  Day  River,  comes  in 
between  the  Klamath  Lakes,  and  strikes  across  the  conn- 
try  in  a  general  direction  northeast  to  the  head- waters  of 
the  John  Day.  Other  projected  routes  will  soon  be 
opened,  leading  from  points  on  the  Columbia  River  to  the 
Owyhee  mines,  .rntiiw 

The  northern  portion  of  Eastern  Oregon  which  is  drained 
by  the  Des  Chutes,  John  Day,  Umatilla,  and  Grande 
Ronde  Rivers ;  and  the  extreme  eastern  portion  wliich  is 


n 


KIVER^  0?  EASTERN  OREGON. 


551 


(Iraiiu'd  by  the  Powder,  Burnt,  and  Malliour  Rivers,  eon- 
wist  entirely  of  rolling  grassy  plains,  Avooded  mountains, 
iiud  fertile  valleys,  the  principal  ones  being  tiiose  on  the 
rivers  already  mentioned.  These  valleys  constitute  the 
only  in]ial)ited  portions  at  the  present  time,  but  the  plains 
arc  certainly  destined  to  be  taken  up  by  stock-raisers. 

Tiie  Des  Chutes  is  a  rapid  and  rocky  stream  which  will 
never  probably  be  made  navigable,  rising  in  the  Cascade 
Mountains  near  the  borders  of  the  Great  Basin,  and  flow- 
ing almost  directly  north  into  the  Columbia.  The  valley 
of  the  Dos  Chutes  has  some  considerable  settlement,  but 
is  yet  chiefly  unoccupied,  though  capable  of  supporting  a 
large  population.  The  settlers  for  the  most  part  are  stock- 
raisers  ;  but  the  demand  for  farm  products  in  the  neigh- 
lioring  mines  is  stimulating  agricultural  improvements. 
The  Des  Chutes  river  abounds  with  salmon,  and  has  numer- 
ous tributaries  whose  banks  are  thinly  wooded.  The 
Des  Chutes,  and  nearly  all  the  rivers  of  Eastern  Oregon, 
have  high  and  steep  banks  which  make  the  crossing  diffi- 
cult except  at  certain   points.  j  ;..>.a;:ir- 

The  John  Day  River,  like  the  Des  Chutes,  is  unnaviga- 
blc,  being  one  of  those  swift  rivers,  full  of  rocks  and  rap- 
ids, Avhich  the  salmon  love  to  inhabit.  It  waters  a  large 
valley  running  in  nearly  the  same  direction  as  the  Des 
Chutes,  and  only  about  thirty  miles  distant  to  the  east. 
It  has  only  been  settled  since  the  gold  discoveries  in  1802. 
It  is  very  fertile,  and  has  a  good  market  in  its  mines. 
Owing  to  the  mildness  of  the  climate  in  this  region,  min- 
ing operations  can  be  carried  on  through  the  greater  por- 
tion of  the  year — the  want  of  water  being  the  only  hin- 
drance to  mining  at  any  season. 

The  Umatilla  River  is  a  small  stream  emptying  into 
the  Columbia,  whose  head-waters  and  southern  tributaries 
flow  through  a  delightful  country,  fit  either  for  cultivation 


Vi 


552 


■y^    EASTERN   OREGON. 


.'if'":.j'j 


1 1 


1 

I 


or  grazing.  It  waters  in  part  the  famous  pastures  of  the 
Nez  Perce  and  Cayuse  Indians,  where  formerly  the  chiefs 
sometimes  had  fifteen  hundred  or  two  thousand  head  of 
horses  in  one  band, 

Grande  Ronde  River  rises  in  the  eastern  spurs  of  the 
Blue  Mountains,  and  has  its  course  a  little  north  of  east 
until  it  falls  into  the  Snake  river.  Its  valley  is  of  a  heau- 
tiful  round  shape,  and  about  twenty -five  miles  in  diameter, 
having  the  river  running  ahnost  directly  through  the  cen- 
ter. It  is  enclosed  between  mountain  ridges  which  send 
down  numerous  streams  of  limpid  water,  keeping  the  val- 
ley ever  verdant.  These  streams  are  fringed  with  trees 
which  mark  their  meanderings,  and  add  a  grace  and  pic- 
turesqueness  to  the  landscape,  which  has  gladdened  the 
eyes  of  thousands  of  overland  emigrants,  scorched  with 
travel  over  sun-burnt  plains.  In  Grande  Ronde  valley 
the  land  is  probably  all  claimed,  owing  to  its  nearness  to 
the  mines.  Considerable  grain  is  raised  in  this  valley,  and 
made  into  flour  in  its  own  mills.  The  climate  of  the 
Grande  Ronde  is  agreeable,  though  sometimes  subject  to 
deep  snows  in  winter.  ii".'<>r'^  imow   una 

Powder  River  is  a  smaP  river,  not  navigable,  but 
affording  good  water-power.  Its  valley  contains  about 
200,000  acres  of  farming  land,  of  which  10,000  acres  are 
under  cultivation.  The  climate  is  rather  warmer  and 
drier  than  that  of  Grande  Ronde,  and  the  valley  is  rapidly 
being  settled  up.  Rich  mines  both  of  gold  and  copper 
have  been  discovered,  and  the  gold  mines  are  being  ex- 
tensively worked. 

South  of  Powder  River  valley  the  country  is  rough  and 
Ijroken,  not  suited  to  agriculture,  but  very  well  adapted 
to  grazing.  Burnt  river,  and  Malheur  river,  flow  through 
this  mountain  country  into  the  river  Snake.  Gold  has 
been  found  in  paying  quantities  on  both  these  rivers,  and 


FUTURE  WEALTH  AND  RESOURCES. 


553 


lores  which  send 


will  iloubtloss  be  found  on  the  tribuhiries  of  the  Owyhee 
ill  the  less  explored  region  of  sontlieastern  Oregon. 

The  mountains  of  Eastern  Oregon  are  generally  well 
wooded  Avith  forests  of  fir  and  birch,  spruce  and  cedar, 
and  some  groves  of  pine.  Cotton-wood  and  willow  fringe 
the  smaller  streams,  and  the  forests  generally  extend  from 
the  mountains  down  the  foot-hills  nearly  to  the  valleys, 
but  never  grow  along  the  main  rivers.  .-i-  .:  .: .  •    :  Mf? 

The  climate  of  this  part  of  the  State  of  Oregon  differs 
entirely  from  that  of  the  western  portion.  It  is  decidedly 
a  di'v  climate ;  rather  warm  in  summer,  and  also  somewhat 
blonk  in  winter.  The  snow  never  falls  to  any  depth  on 
the  plains,  but  does  occasionally  fall  heavily  in  the  valleys. 
The  winters,  however,  are  short,  and  farmers  commence  ' 
putting  in  seed  in  March. 

From  what  has  been  said  of  the  resources  of  Eastern  ■ 
Oregon,  it  will  be    seen  that   a   great    portion    of  the' 
wealth  and  importance  of  the  State  is  in  the  future  to  be 
derived  from  that  portion  lying  east  of  the  Cascade  range, 
and  until  recently  considered  of  but  little  value.     As  a  * 
beefraising  and  wool-growing  country  it  will  become  of 
very  great  value,  as  auxiliary  to  its  mines,  which  are  rap- 
idly becoming  known,   and  already  rival  those  of  Idaho 
and  Montana.     Although  this  portion  of  the  State  will 
never,  perhaps,  become  the  seat  of  so  dense  a  population 
as  the  western  portion,  it  will  be  found  to  contain  the 
means  of  great  wealth  and  commercial  prosperity  in  its 
stock-ranches,   its   fields  of  corn  and   sorghum,   its   fruit 
orchards,  vineyards,  flax  and  wool,  as  well  as  in  its  mines 
of  gold,  silver,  copper,  lead,  cinnabar,  and  plumbago. 

The  whole  State  of  Oregon,  East  and  West,  comprises 
an  area  of  102,600  square  miles.  Its  population  cannot 
exceed  110,000. 


554 


WASimJGXON   TERlllTOBY. 


•IMT 


I 


,  •'  '    ■  Offc  'jd7iH  -Ml 

V' 
CHAPTER     XL  VI.  >j.:. 


I             *^.  ■ 

i 

i 

K-           ■ 

i  ■  ^^  1 

; 

Washington  Territory  is  the  northern  half  of  the  old 
Oregon  Territory,  from  the  southern  half  of  which  its  peo- 
ple prayed  to  be  separated  in  1852.  It  has  an  area  of 
69,994  square  miles  ;  being  considerably  less  than  Oregon 
in  extent.     Its  population  is  probably  under  20,000. 

In  general  terms  Washington  and  Oregon  resemble  each 
other  both  in  the  principal  features  of  the  country  and  in 
climate.  The  chief  difference  consists  in  the  more  open 
appearance  of  the  country,  it  not  being  so  entirely  made 
up  of  valleys  as  Oregon.  The  principal  river  is  the  Cowe- 
litz,  which  is  navigable  a  distance  of  only  thirty  miles; 
its  valley  being  narrow  and  rich,  but  of  very  limited  ex- 
tent. Like  Oregon,  it  is  divided  by  the  Cascade  range  of 
mountains,  with  the  same  relative  differ*euces  of  soil  and 
climate  on  the  east  and  west  sides.  Ut  like  Oregon,  how- 
ever, it  is  not  so  entirely  separated  from  the  sea  by  the 
Coast  range  of  mountains,  which  in  Washington  are  very 
much  broken.  The  terminating  point  of  the  Coast  Moun- 
tains is  Mount  Olympus,  which  rises  to  a  height  of  nine 
thousand  feet,  standing  forth  as  a  glorious  land-mark,  vis- 
ible from  the  sea ;  and  being  closely  in  view  either  from 
the  Straits  of  Fuca,  or  Puget's  Sound.  ..,^;,_ 
■-'  The  richest  agricultural  portions  of  Washington  are  the 
small  valleys  of  its  numerous  streams,  all  of  which  are 
well  wooded  with  cotton-wood,  maple,  oak,  ash,  fir,  cedar, 
willow,  and  alder.     The  best  grain  fields  of  Washington 


THE    STRAIT    OF   SAN   JUAN    DE   FUCA'. 


555 


are  contained  in  a  tract  of  land  called  the  Cowclitz  Prai- 
rie, commencing  about  thirty  miles  north  of  the  Colum- 
bia River,  and  extending  only  a  few  miles  toward  the 
Sound.  Strictly  speaking,  Washington  is  not  an  agricul- 
tural country ;  its  peculiar  geography  pointing  it  out 
ratlur  as  a  commercial  than  a  farming  State.  A  glance 
at  any  good  map  will  show  the  reader  at  once  what  is  the 
evident  future  of  Washington  Territory.  Considering  the 
importance  of  the  inland  waters  of  this  Territory,  it  Avill 
be  quite  apropos  of  the  subject  of  a  Northern  Railroad  to 
give  a  somewhat  detailed  description  of  them,  taken  from 
the  reports  of  both  English  and  American  explorers. 
From  the  Pacific  Railroad  Report  of  the  late  Governor 
I.  I.  Stevens,  we  take  the  following  account  of  the  Strait 
of  San-  Juan  De  Fuca  : 

"  The  Strait  of  Juan  De  Fitca  is  the  moat  remarkable  inlet  of  the  -whole 
I'iKilic  coast  of  the  Ameriean  continent.     It   is  bounded  on   the  north  by  the 
SDiitlicrn  shore  of  Vancouver's  Island  and  other  smaller  islands,  and  on  the 
south  by  the  northern  shore  of  tlie  Mount  Olympus  peninsula.     On  the  east  it 
is  terminated  to  a  certain  extent  by  the  western  shore  of  "Whidby's  Island.    Its 
{.'iiuTal  direction  is  from  east  to  west,  and  its  lenfjth  is  about  eighty  nautical 
mile?.    The  north  and  south  shores  of  this  Stra't  are  parallel  as  far  as  the 
foutlioni  end  of  Vancouver's  Island,  or  to  about  the  middle  of  its  len2;th.     Up 
to  this  point  the  Strait  has  a  general  width  of  about  eleven  nautical  miles. 
Friim  Race  Rocks  on  the  north  and  Freshwater  Bay  on  the  south,  exactly  the 
iiiiildlp  point  of  the  whole  extent,  the  Strait  widens  about  twenty  nautical  miles, 
ami  iil'tcrwards  presents  more  the  aspect  of  a  broad  interior  basin.     It  is  no 
ioiiyjer  bounded  by  straight  parallel  shores,  but  branches  into  several  broad  pas- 
sagos,  bays,  and  channels.     De  Fuca  Strait  is  very  deep  throuiihout  its  wliole 
I'Xtcnt.     In  mid-channel  its  average  depth  is  one  hundred  fathoms,  and  this 
(I'pth  is  carried  near  the  shore  on  both  sides.  It  commences  shoaling  at  a  distance 
of  two  miles  from  shore  ;  and  in  all  the  channels  and  branches  of  this  Strait 
tliu  depth  is  equally  groat.     There  are  no  imj)ediments  to  navigation  through- 
out the  whole  extent  of  this  Strait,     A  deep  sea  bank  is  found  at  the  entrance, 
which  is  a  favorite  fishing  bank  for  the  Indians  in  this  vicinity."     "  The  south- 
ern shores  of  De  Fuca  Strait  are  hills,  in  the  immediate  neighborhood  of  the 
water,  of  a  moderate  height.     Many  low  sandy  cliffs  fall  perpendicularly  on 
bi'aehes  of  sand  and  stone.     From  the  top  of  the  clifTy  eminences  the  land 
takes  a  further  gentle  and  moderate  ascent,  and  is  entirely  covered  with  trees, 


I  r ! 


^I9f 


'  t"  !' ' 


i.  -i 


6r)G 


WAHIIINUTON    TEIUUTOWV. 


eliLi'dy  dC  till!  i)iiin  ijcnus,  until  tlu^  forest  rcaclios  a  i.iii^oof  liijrh  rra^;:v moun- 
tains, which  siH'ni  to  rise  from  the.  woodland  country  in  a  very  al^runt  m;m\vr 
with  tluiir  Hinnniits  covcrud  with  snow.  'J'lic  northern  shore  is  not  (luituso 
hi^h.  It  risers  more  f^railiially  from  the  sea-side  to  the  tops  of  the  numntains  of 
A'aneonvcr's  Islaml,  which  jiives  to  tlieni  the  appearance  oi'  a  e(ini])act  run'o 
inon-  nnit()rm  and  much  h'ss  eovi'red  with  snow  than  those  on  the  soutliern 
»<i<li\"*  'l"he  eminenci'S  with  which  the  whole  coast  is  lined  have  ncariv  all 
more,  or  loss,  the  sann;  I'orm.  They  l()rm  little  peninsulas,  which  all  ]X)int  lo 
the  northwest.  The  northeastern  sides  of  these  peninsulas  are  lonij;,  the  north- 
western short,  and  lii^twii-n  the  two  nei;^hboring  points  usually  lies  a  little  Iwv, 
tlie  shores  of  which  are  low  and  sandy."        ;• 


Piissing  over  the  careful  accounts  of  the  several  ports 
along  the  strait,  intended  for  the  benefit  of  sea-going  read- 
ers, we  come  to  Port  Discovery,  at  the  entrance  to  Ad- 
miralty Inlet,  the  northern  portion  of  what  is  now  called 
in  a  general  way  The  Sound,  ,-         ,., 

"  This  bay  is  about  six  miles  long  from  north  to  south,  and  throu};hout  two  to 
two  and  a  lialf  miles  wide  from  cast  to  west.  It  is  very  deep,  and  has  regular 
Foundinf^s  from  thirty  to  thirty-five  fathoms  in  mid-channel,  to  ten  fathoms  I'lnse 
to  shore.  In  some  jjlaci'S  it  is  almost  t(M)  deep  for  an  anchoring  piiice.  Tlie 
entrance  of  this  port  is  formed  by  two  low  ))rojeciing  jwints,  Challam  Point,  to 
the  west,  and  Cape  George  to  the  east.  Wooded  cliffs  of  a  middling  lu'ight 
bound  th(!  coast  of  the  interior  basin.  It  is  protected  from  all  winds,  and 
especially  those  of  tlie  north,  by  a  little  Island,  called  Protection  Island,  which 
is  two  miles  from  its  entrance  and  covers  it.  "  Had  this  insular  production  of 
nature,"  says  Vancouver,  "  been  designed  by  the  most  able  engineers,  it  could 
not  have  been  placed  more  liapi)ily  for  the  protection  of  the  port." 

-•,'•'--1.11-,  '■  )  -  .   :  >-i\     i^Ji  : 

From  all  this  it  is  evident  that  this  bay  forms  one  of 
the  safest  and  best  harbors  in  the  world.  It  is  also  very 
easy  to  fortify  it  against  the  attempts  of  an  enemy. 

"  Admiralty  Inlet  is  a  most  curious,  irregular,  and  complicated  compound 
of  inlets,  channels,  and  bay  ■,  which  lead  to  a  narrow  entrance  from  the  snutli- 
(Msti^rn  corner  of  De  Fuca  Strait.  The  principal  body  of  these  waters,  takin.; 
the  whole  as  one  mcass,  runs  in  a  directly  north  and  south  line  through  more 
than  a  whole  degree  of  latitude ;  but  branches  run  out  from  it  in  all  points  of 
the  compass,  and  fill  a  region  seventy  nautical  miles  in  length  from  north  to 
sotith  and  thirty  miles  in  breadth  from  east  to  west.     It  may  be  compared  to  a 

♦Vancouver. 


:i'. 


PUQET   BOUND. 


557 


lire,  iif  wliith  the  body  is  rcco;Tniziiblo,  which  iscall«>fl  A<lmiralty  Tiilct  pnipor, 
ami  till'  siiii'  iiraiK'licH  have  tlicir  ])iirticiilar  names.  All  tlic  water  eliaiinelH  of 
wliicli  Admiralty  Inlet  is  composetl  are  eomparatively  narrow  and  liin<,'.  They 
liavc  all.  more  or  lesH  l)()ld  .sliores,  anil  are  liiron;_'li(iiit  dee|)  and  ahriipt,  so  ninch 
.<ii  tliMt  ill  many  places  a  Hliip's  sido  will  strike  tlic  sliorc  belbre.  the  keel  will 
tmich  the  i^'round."* 


'     » 


t ,. 


.»..;,. 


Even  ill  tlio  interior  and  most  hidden  parts,  doptlis  of 
fifty  iiiid  a  hundred  fathoms  occur,  as  broad  as  l)e  Fueti 
Stniit  itself.  Vancouver  found  sixty  fathoms  lusar  the 
Viishoii  Ishmd  within  a  cable's  length  of  the  shore,  and 
ill  Pcs-^ession  Sound  he  found  no  soundings  with  a  line  of 
one  hundred  and  ten  fathoms.  Our  mochn-n  more  exten- 
sive soundings  prove  that  this  depth  diminishes  towards 
the  extremities  of  the  inlets  and  basin.s.  A  high  tide  goes 
lip  fi'oiii  l)e  Fuca  Strait  into  all  these  sounds.  Even  at 
Nis([ually,  the  most  southern  part  of  the  Admiralty  Inlet, 
the  spring  tides  are  eighteen  feet  high  and  the  neaps 
twelvo.  .,  . 

•     :,  ,         ,-■,,;  ^:     .  ■    ,  ,  '     '    ,..        '    '■  '      ■"-  ..;■■'     ' 

"  Nothing  can  exceed  the  beauty  and  safety  of  these  watcrH  for  navij;ation. 
Nut  a  shoal  exist.s  witliin  tlieni ;  not  a  liidden  roe',  .»  sudden  overfalls  of  tlie 
water  or  tlie  air ;  no  strong  (lows  of  the  wind  as  in  other  narrow  waters ;  lor 
iiistaiice,  as  in  those  of  Magellan's  Strait.  And  there  are  in  this  region  so  many 
cxcillent  and  secure  ports,  that  the  commercial  marine  of  the  Pacific  Ocean 
may  lie  easily  acconuuodated. 

"  'I'he  country  into  which  these  waters  enter,  and  of  wliieh  t\wy  fill  the  lowest 
and  central  parts,  may  be  .said  to  be  a  broad  valley  between  the  Mount  Olyni- 
])iis  raii'^e  to  the  west  and  the  Cascade  range  to  the  east ;  the  higli,  snow-cov- 
ered peaks  of  both  ranges  may  be  seen  fi-oin  the  wati!rs  everywhere.  Tliey 
stand  at  a  distance  of  about  a  hundred  nautical  miles  from  each  other.  The 
hrii.id  valley  between  the.in  is,  upon  tlie  whole,  of  a  moderate  elevation,  and 
])n'siiits  a  j)retty  level  depression.  The  higher  spurs  of  the  two  mountain  ran- 
dies do  not  come  down  to  the  water's  edge.  The  shore  lands  in  the  immedi- 
ate neighliorhood  of  the  channels  may,  therefore,  be  called  only  hills.  They 
are  partly  handsomely  wooded,  partly  covered  with  luxuriant  grass." 

Puget  Sound  proper,  is  that  portion  of  this  large  inland 
body  of  water  which  extends  south  of  Vashon  Island,  and 


•  Wilkes. 


558 


WASIIIN(iT()N    TKliUlTOUV. 


I  -'4 


fij 


is  ii  conipontul  of  uiatiy  narrow  iiilot3  and  sounds  like  Ad- 
miralty Ink't,  and  dillbrH  I'runi  it  in  no  particular  except 
in  extent. 

ILxxPs  Canal  is  the  -westernmost  arm  of  this  jfroat  am] 
compli{;atcd  sound,  the  lart^^vst  portion  of  wiiicli  is  CiiUcu 
on  tliu  nia[)s  Admiralty  Iidot,  but  which  the  people  of  the 
west  coast  liavo  named  without  distinction  of  buuiidaries 
Prr,F:T  Sound. 

When  it  is  remembered  that  the  many  arms  of  the 
Round  are  surrounded  with  the  most  valuable  timber  for 
Khip-buildin<^,  as  well  as  with  many  beautiful  shrubs  and 
smaller  growths  of  trees,  the  beauty  and  the  wealth  of 
this  favored  region  may  be  faintly  imagined.  On  a  bright 
suunucr's  day,  when  the  grand  snow-peaks  of  the  Cascade 
range  and  of  Mount  Olympus  stand  distinctly  out  to  view, 
a  scene  is  furnished  which  probably  is  not  surpassed  by 
any  in  the  world — certainly  not  by  any  on  the  American 
Continent. 

The  advantages  of  Puget  Sound,  as  the  great  Naval 
Depot  of  the  Pacific  coast,  cannot  be  over-rated.  Here 
is  the  ample  room  and  the  safe  anchorage ;  here  the  tim- 
ber, the  turpentine,  tar,  rosin,  iron,  copper,  cordage,  and 
a  climate  favorable  to  constant  labor  in  the  open  air.  It 
is  impossible  to  doubt  that  the  United  States  Government 
will  avail  itself  of  this  magnificent  gift  of  nature,  or  to 
believe  that  it  will  be  blind  to  the  necessity  of  Ptailroad 
communication  between  it  and  the  great  commercid 
marts  of  the  cast.  ,   .  • 

Lumbering  Interests.  We  have  already  said  that  agri- 
culture was  not  the  great  business  of  Washington  Terri- 
tory. Its  greatest  commercial  interest  at  present  is  the 
lumber  trade.  The  largest  mills  of  the  Pacific  coast  are 
located  along  the  shores  of  Puget  Sound.  The  plain 
lying  north  of  the  Cowelitz  Valley  and  east  of  the  Sound 
is  mostly  of  a  gravelly  soil,  dotted  with  scattering  timber, 


Ll'MHER — COAL — PI81I. 


559 


ind  (livorsificd  with  hikes  and  streams.  It  is  a  countiy 
very  boiiutifiil  to  the  eye,  and  with  proper  care  may  be 
iniulc  to  yiekl  good  returns  to  husbandry,  thougli  much 
loss  vahiablc  than  other  portions.  But  in  the  innnediate 
vicinity  of  the  Sound  the  timber  is  very  dense,  and  grows 
to  a  maguificent  size,  often  reaching  a  height  of  250  or 
;](I0  feet.  This  belt  of  timber  which  encircles  the  Sound, 
is  from  two  to  six  miles  in  width,  and  consists  chiefly  of 
fir  and  cedar — the  most  valuable  timber  on  the  coast. 
Even  the  saw-dust  of  the  cedar  is  valued,  on  account  of 
its  odor,  and  is  carried  to  San  Francisco  to  be  used  in 
saloons,  market-places,  etc. 

The  lumbering  interests  of  Washington  are  controlled 
by  companies  who  own  large  tracts  of  timbered  land  along 
the  Sound,  and  at  favorable  points  on  the  coast.  Their 
market  is  in  San  Francisco,  the  Sandwich  Islands,  Sitka, 
and  nearly  all  points  on  the  Pacific  coast  south  of  Oregon. 
Ooul.  Another  great  source  of  wealth  in  Washington 
Territory  is  the  coal  which  it  furnishes.  Bellingham  Bay 
coal  has  long  been  used  in  San  Francisco  as  the  principal 
fuel.  Later,  other  mines  have  been  discovered  and  open- 
ed on  the  Cowelitz  River,  only  four  or  six  miles  from  its 
junction  with  the  Columbia.  From  tlicir  extent  and  thick- 
i.uss  the  Cowelitz  beds  are  likely  to  rank  high  as  an  open- 
ing for  the  investment  of  capital, 

Fish.  Of  the  rivers  which  empty  into  the  Sound,  are 
the  Skagit,  Snohomish,  Dwamish,  Puyallup,  Nisqually,  and 
Skokomish,  with  their  tributaries.  Many  of  these  streams 
are  navigable  at  high  tide  by  vessels  drawing  eight  to  ten 
feet  of  water,  making  access  o  commercial  waters  easy 
for  the  occupants  of  the  laud  along  their  course.  There 
are  mud-flats  of  some  extent  at  the  mouths  of  the  rivers, 
and  some  patches  ol  salt-meadows.  The  river  mouths 
are  chMice  places  for  obtaining  salmon,  cod,  and  halibut ; 


560 


WASHINGTON   TERRITORY. 


salmon  and  herring  are  taken  in  the  Sound,  and  trout  in 
the  streams. 

The  Coast  Counties.  Of  the  counties  along  the  coast 
not  much  is  known  except  that  they  have  a  rich  soil,  gen- 
erally covered  with  a  dense  growth  of  timber.  Many 
small  streams  flow  from  the  Coast  Mountains  into  the  Pa- 
cific Ocean.  ; 

Gray's  Harbor,  in  Chehalis  county,  together  with  tlio 
fine  valley  of  the  Chehalis  River,  make  this  portion  of  the 
coast  a  very  desirable  point  for  settlement. 

Shoalwater  Bay,  in  Pacific  county,  is  an  extensive  body 
of  water,  receiving  the  waters  of  numerous  small  streams, 
among  which  the  Willopah  is  the  most  considerable,  hav- 
ing a  fine  valley  like  the  Chehalis.  Both  these  bays  have 
extensive  meadows  and  natural  prairies  contiguous,  which 
furnish  excellent  grass  through  the  whole  year.  A  fine 
sand  beach  extends  along  the  coast  the  whole  distance 
between  these  bays,  making  the  pleasantest  summer  drives 
imaginable.  The  entrance  to  Shoalwater  Bay  is  five  milv^s 
wide,  with  two  channels,  each  half  a  mile  wide,  leading 
into  it.  The  bay  is  filled  with  shoals,  mud-fiats,  and  sand 
pits,  all  of  which  are  bare  at  low  water ;  while  at  high 
water  the  tide  sets  up  the  rivers  from  eight  to  fifteen  mile^ 
This  bay  is  the  great  oyster-bed  of  the  Pacific  Coast,  and 
vessels  are  regularly  engaged  in  the  oyster  trade  between 
this  point  and  San  Francisco.  Around  the  bay  the  coun- 
try is  heavily  covered  with  fir,  spruce,  hemlock,  and  arbor 
vitae. 

From  Shoalwater  Bay  down  to  Cape  Hancock,  called 
on  the  maps  Cape  Disappointment,  there  extends  another 
smooth  beach  for  a  distance  of  twenty  miles.  This  beach 
is  about  one  hundred  yards  wide,  very  even  and  hard, 
backed  by  a  range  of  low,  sandy,  and  wooded  hills  ;  and 
the  whole  constitutes  a  narrow  peninsula  extending  to  the 


i,   and  trout  iu 


ffether  witli  tlio 


WESTERN    WASHINGTON. 


561 


mouth  of  the  Columbia  River.  The  extreme  southern 
point  of  this  peninsula  is  Cape  Hancock,  where  the  Uni- 
ted States  has  a  fortification. 

Resume.  Westeyi  Washington,  so  far  as  developed, 
hos  been  proven  to  depend  chiefly  upon  its  lumber,  fish, 
coal  and  other  minerals,  for  its  commercial  position.  This 
is  not  really  on  account  of  the  sterility  of  the  country,  as 


sa 


MOUNT   BANIER   FROM   PUGET  SOUND. 


has  been  shown,  but  is  owing  rather  to  the  habits  of  the 
[)cople,  and  because  until  lately  there  existed  no  market 
for  farm  produce  in  the  Territory.  Now,  however,  it  is 
dilferent.  Vancouver's  Island  right  at  their  doors,  depends 
entirely  upon  Washington  and  Oregon  for  grain  and  veg- 
vtabies,  nor  is  the  opportunity  any  longer  lacking  of  send- 


562 


WASHINGTON   TERRITORY. 


t^-'^- 


i 

1; 

;i 
t 

i 

ing  farm  products  to  foreign  markets,  while  the  mines  of 
Eastern  AYashington,  like  those  of  Oregon,  make  a  con- 
stant demand  on  the  labor  of  the  farmer. 

Western  Washington  possesses  at  once  the  finest  inland 
harbors  in  the  world,  immense  forests  of  valuable  lumber, 
mines  of  coal,  and  precious  metals,  extensive  fisheries,  a 
healthful  and  mild  climate,  and  is  nearer  by  seven  hundred 
miles  to  the  great  East  Indian  marts  of  trade  than  any 
other  harbor  of  importance  on  the  Pacific  Coast. 

The  Puget  Sound  country  must  ultimately  become  a  rich 
and  thickly  inhabited  region,  and  there  will  undoubtedly 
grow  up  upon  the  Sound  a  great  maritime  city,  where 
ships  from  China  and  Japan  will  disembark  their  freight 
upon  the  wharves  of  a  Northern  Pacific  Railroad,  to  be 
conveyed  by  the  shortest  land  carriage  to  the  great  chain 
of  inland  seas  sti  etching  from  Lake  Superior,  by  the  aid 
of  a  ship-canal,  to  the  Atlantic  Ocean ;  or  scattered  broad- 
cast over  the  land  along  the  hundreds  of  branch  roads 
that  vein  the  eastern  half  of  the  continent  in  every  direc- 
tion. 

Southern  and  Eastern  Washington.     That   portion  of 
Washington  Territory  bordering  upon  the  Columbia  River 
is  not  much  settled.     Farmers  are,  however,  taking  up  the 
land  in  the  valleys  of  the  rivers  flowing  into  the  Columbia 
on  the  north  side,  quite  rapidly  of  late.     It  is  generally 
observed  that  the  land  seems  warmer  on  that  side  of  the 
river  than  on  the  Southern  or  Oregon  side.     The  Cowelitz 
y alley  and  the  Lewis  River  and  Lake  River  Valleys  are 
•now  pretty  well  filled  up,  and  prove  to  be  excellent  fruit, 
grain,  and  dairy  regions.     Farther  up  the  Columbia,  and 
just  west  of  the  foot-hills  of  the  Cascades,  is  another  well- 
settled  section  of  the   Territory,  where  some  handsome 
prairies  lie  toward  the  Columbia  River,  bordered  with  rich 
bottom  lands. 


THE    WALLA-WALLA   VALLEY. 


563 


East  of  the  Cascades  the  country  is  unsettled  for  a  long 
distance,  except  here  and  there  a  farm  near  the  Columbia. 

Walla-  Walla.  Not  until  we  reach  the  Walla- Walla  Val- 
ley, do  we  find  any  active  life  and  signs  of  cultivation. 
But  here,  in  the  southeasternmost  corner  of  the  Territory, 
is  a  valley  of  great  beauty  and  fertility,  rapidly  becoming 
populated.  The  productions  of  this  valley  are  wheat, 
outs,  barley,  corn,  fruits,  and  vegetables.  Wheat  yields 
thirty  to  sixty  bushels  to  the  acre,  oats  seventy-five,  pota- 
toes four  to  six  hundred  bushels,  and  other  garden  stuff 
ill  proportion.  As  a  grazing  country  it  cannot  be  excelled, 
for  the  quality  of  either  the  grass  or  water.  Besides  the 
streams,  wells  yield  excellent  cold  water  at  a  depth  of 
from  twelve  to  fifteen  feet.  There  is  no  valley  in  the 
whole  upper  country  superior  to  this  in  advantages  offered 
for  settlement.  The  climate  is  dry  and  healthful,  with 
short  winters,  and  long,  warm  summers.  The  chief  objec- 
tion to  the  climate  is  the  high  wind  which  prevails  in 
siiinmer,  in  common  with  all  high,  open  countries. 


ir'r 


v.- '   ■     ' 
•  •  •     '•  I" 


/    ■ 


.'j:' 


!'^''<'. 


■  ■  />.       ■»  •-  V 


'-    .r-i'^i 


664 


THE   COLUMBIA   lUVEli. 


CHAPTER     XLYII. 


The  Columbia  River  has  no  valley  proper — that  is,  con- 
tinuous levels  of  agricultural  land,  commonly  known  as 
bottoms.  From  the  junction  of  its  two  great  forks  to  its 
outlet,  it  flows  between  high  bluffs,  which  rise  into  moun- 
tains where  the  river  breaks  through  the  Cascade  Range. 

The  mouth  of  the  Columbia  forms  a  large  bay,  twenty- 
five  miles  long  by  six  to  eight  wide,  with  numerous  smaller 
bays  indenting  it3  shores,  and  numerous  points  and  prom- 
ontories, the  most  conspicuous  of  which  are  Tongue 
Point,  four  miles  above  Astoria,  Point  Adams,  which  bor- 
ders on  the  ocean  on  the  southern  entrance,  and  Cape 
Disappointment,  (or  Cape  Hancock,  as  it  is  known  to  the 
Government,)  which  borders  on  the  northern  entrance. 
These  two  last  named  points  are  fortified.  The  following 
mention  of  these  fortifications  is  from  the  Astoria  "Marine 
Gazette : " 


i    I 


"  Fort  Stevens  is  situated  on  Point  Adams,  on  the  Oregon  side,  in  full  view 
of  the  ocean,  and  about  one  mile  from  the  main  channel  of  the  river,  and  two 
and  a-half  or  three  miles  from  the  ocean.  The  guns  of  Fort  Stevens  will  com- 
mand the  channel  for  several  miles  above  and  below  the  Fort.  Next  summer 
a  fort  is  to  be  built  on  Chinook  Point  immediately  opposite  Fort  Stevens  and 
nearly  due  north  of  it.  The  river  at  this  point  is  about  three  and  a-half  miles 
wide,  and  is  the  narrowest  point  on  the  river  within  forty  miles  of  the  mouth. 
Fort  Hancock,  on  Cape  Disappointment,  is  about  seven  miles  northwest  of 
Fort  Stevens,  and  about  five  and  !^-half  west  by  north  of  Chinook  Point.  Thus 
the  three  forts  will  form  a  triangle,  all  commanding  the  entrance  and  the  chan- 
nels of  the  river.  When  all  of  these  forts  are  completed,  motmted  and  manned, 
an  enemy  would  meet  with  a  warm  reception,  in  case  he  would  attempt  to  pay 
us  a  hostile  visit. 


Tmr 


ITS   SCENERY,    EXTENT,    AND   RESOURCES. 


565 


'    •;  ,;m.|:;i' 

■■■■  ■■'i.f 
.  .  ■.,.-,i-.j.,  y,^ 

— that  is,  con- 
mly  known  as 
:'eat  forks  to  its 
rise  into  moun- 
ascade  Range. 
;e  bay,  twenty- 
imerous  smaller 
)ints  and  prom- 
h  are  Tongue 
ims,  which  hor- 
mce,  and  Cape 
is  known  to  the 
jiern  entrance. 

The  following 
Lstoria  "Marine 

n;on  side,  in  full  view 
of  the  river,  ani  two 
ort  Stevens  will  com- 
Fort.  Next  summer 
te  Fort  Stevens  and 
hree  and  a-lialf  miles 
f  miles  of  the  mouth. 
1  miles  northwest  of 
Jhinook  Toint.  Thus 
itrance  and  the  chan- 
notmted  and  manned, 
would  attempt  to  pay 


Fort  Stevens  is  a  nonagon,  surrounded  by  a  deep  ditch  thirty  feet  wide  and 
nineteen  hundred  feet  in  length.  Beyond  the  ditch  is  an  outer  earth-work, 
slopinf^  gently  back  to  the  surface  of  the  ground,  to  protect  the  perpendicular 
wall  of  the  main  work  inside  of  the  ditch.  From  the  top  of  this  wall,  I'.ie  earth- 
works of  the  main  fort  slope  up  to  the  top  where  the  guns  are  mounted.  An 
exterior  view  of  the  fort  exhibits  nothing  but  an  inclined  plane  of  earth-works, 
of  so  gentle  a  slope  that  shot  or  shell  can  do  it  no  damage.  The  magazine  in 
the  centre  of  the  fort  is  a  substantial  structure,  covered  deeply  with  earth,  and 
is  bomb-proof.  The  shell-houses  are  also  bomb-proof,  and  are  interspersed 
along  the  line  of  guns  at  convenient  distances.  Tlie  entire  earth-works,  includ- 
ing magazine  and  shcli-houses,  except  the  nice  gravel  walks  through  the  fort, 
are  covered  with  sod  of  sparkling  green,  and  are  beautifully  pictured  upon  the 
broad  surface  of  the  deep  ditch,  as  it  stretches  around  the  fort,  between  its 
parallel  walls  and  numerous  angles.  Fort  Stevens  will  mount  forty-three  guns, 
and  some  of  them  arc  the  largest  size.  Tlie  great  fifteen-inch  pivot  gun  guards 
the  prominent  front  facing  the  approach  from  sea.  Here  the  grim  monster 
stands  sentry,  bidding  defiance  to  any  foe  that  dares  invade.  Tliis  is  said  to 
be  the  most  substantial  and  efficient  fort  on  the  Pacific  Coast,  and  for  beauty 
and  symmetry  we  doubt  if  it  is  surpassed  by  any  simila-  work  in  the  United 
States."      ....  .  ,  '       •..  ., 

There  are  two  channels  or  entrances  to  the  Columbia, 
over  the  celebrated  "bar."       't'-    ^^     '►  ^   .;  .. 

The  north  channel  conducts  past  the  light-house  on 
Cape  Disappointment,  and  follows  the  shore-line  of  Baker's 
Bay  until  abreast  of  Pacific  City,  then  bears  off  to  the 
right  some  distance,  where  it  intersects  the  south  channel , 
whi^h  comes  in  by  Point  Adams.  On  the  "middle  sands" 
between  the  north  and  south  channels  are  lying  the  bones 
of  many  a  worthy  vessel,  and  many  a  gallant  sailor  also, 
whom  deceitful  winds  lured  on  to  the  bar  and  suddenly 
failing,  left  stranded  by  the  ebbing  tide,  to  go  to  destruc- 
tion in  the  breakers.  After  the  two  channels  unite  in  one, 
tliat  one  bears  to  the  south,  coming  right  up  to  the  town 
of  Astoria,  where  the  Custom  House  is  located,  and  where 
the  first  cargo  of  goods  delivered  in  Oregon  was  dis- 
charged from  the  ship  Tonquin,  Capt.  Thorn,  from  New 
York,  in  the  service  of  John  Jacob  Astor,  in  the  year 
1811.     The  genius  of  a  great  and  successful  merchant 


5GG 


THE    COLUMBIA    RIVER. 


-■!'• 


I      i 


touclied  by  a  wonderful  foresight  upon  the  very  spot 
where  a  mighty  People's  commerce  shall  yet  be  disem- 
barked. ,, 

The  dangers  which  once  beset  the  entrance  to  the 
Columbia  have  been  overcome  by  steam.  No  steamer 
was  ever  lost  on  the  bar,  and  since  a  proper  pilot  system 
has  been  established,  but  one  or  two  vessels.  The  diffi- 
culty should  be  effectually  removed  by  the  employment  of 
a  steam-tug  for  sailing  vessels. 

The  vessels  which  ply  on  the  lower  Columbia  are  the 
tri-monthly  line  of  ocean  steamers  from  San  Francisco,  a 
number  of  sailing  vessels  carrying  lumber  and  produce  to 
the  same  port,  a  line  of  vessels  'o  the  Sandwich  Islands, 
a  steamer  connecting  with  the  San  Francisco  line,  taking 
passengers  and  freight  to  Vancouver's  Island,  and  a  semi- 
weekly  steamer  from  Portland  to  Astoria.  All  vessels 
entering  the  river  stop  at  Astoria  to  receive  their  clear- 
ances, and  proceed  to  Portland,  twelve  miles  up  the  mouth 
of  the  Wallamet,  and  one  hundred  and  ten  from  the  ocean, 
to  discharge  their  cargoes.  ;  :  , 

Proceeding  up  the  Columbia,  the  traveler  sees  little  of 
interest  except  the  great  river  itself  Like  the  Hudson, 
its  banks  are  high  and  mountainous,  but  unlike  that  river, 
they  are  not  yet  dotted  with  towns,  villages,  and  hamlets, 
at  every  accessible  point.  A  few  beginnings  have  been 
made,  where  a  flouring  mill  or  saw-mill  have  been  estab- 
lished, and  whce  a  vessel  comes  to  load  with  lumber  or 
floirr.  Oak  Point,  Cathlamet,  and  Monticello  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Cowelitz,  are  such  examples.  A  fgw  farms  also  have 
been  begun  where  the  small  valleys  of  tributary  streams 
come  down  to  the  Columbia,  St.  Helen  is  the  first  town 
which  seems  to  promise  a  considerable  future  growth,  and 
that  chiefly  on  account  of  its  fine  and  favorable  situation. 
It  has,  however,  ample  resources,  though  undeveloped, 


ITS   SCENERY,    EXTENT,    AND   RESOURCES. 


567 


and  lias  been  talked  of  as  the  terminus  of  the  Oregon 
Central  Railroad,  where  it  should  cross  the  river  toward 
Puget  Sound  by  way  of  the  Cowelitz  Valley.  There  is  a 
sufficient  depth  of  water  at  St.  Helen  to  accommodate  the 
largest  vessels.  .'.'.-"       > 

Just  above  this  point  the  Lower  Wallamet  falls  into  the 
Columbia,  the  two  rivers  embracing  a  fertile  island,  called 
Sauvies,  about  twenty  miles  in  length,  where  some  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company's  people  formerly  had  farms,  some 
of  which  are  still  held  by  them.  The  Lower  Wallamet 
has  a  depth  of  water  sufficient  for  the  ocean  steamers 
which  sometimes  pass  this  way  in  going  up.  At  the  up- 
per mouth  of  the  Wallamet  are  a  number  of  small  and 
beautiful  islands,  and  the  scene  upon  a  fine  summer  after- 
noon is  scarcely  exceeded  anywhere.  The  wide,  blue, 
majestic  Columbia  receives  the  tributary  waters  of  the 
clear  and  sparkling  Wallamet,  which  join  its  nobler  flood 
by  several  devious  outlets  among  the  islands,  as  if  coy  and 
teazing,  and  reluctant  to  betray  itself  all  at  once  for  the 
important  adjunct  that  it  is  to  its  grander  neighbor  with 
whom  it  is  silently  being  united,  to  be  recognized  no  more 
in  its  individual  character.  With  a  fine  sunset  sky  re- 
flected in  these  waters,  the  lovely  embowered  islands,  dot- 
tino:  them  over,  with  the  distant  bluffs  of  the  Wallamet  in 
view  on  one  hand,  and  the  snowy  peaks  of  Hood  and  St. 
Helen  standing  out  grandly  on  the  other,  it  makes  a  view 
scarcely  to  be  surpassed  in  mingled  beauty  and  sublimity: 
and  must  charm  the  eyes  of  a  sea-weary  emigrant  with  a 
double  charm.  It  is  a  very  pleasant  sail  from  this  point 
up  to  Portland  on  the  Wallamet. 

The  Columbia  above  the  mouth  of  the  Wallamet  grows 
more  interesting,  and  sustains  its  interest  for  over  a  hun- 
dred miles.  Vancouver  on  the  Washington  side,  is  the  old 
post  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  and  the  present  head- 


568 


THE    COLUMBIA   RIVER. 


quarters  of  the  Military  Department  of  Oregon.  The 
situation  of  Vancouver  is  charming,  as  is  also  the  view  of 
the  river  and  the  mountains  at  this  place.  The  Oregon 
side  of  the  Columbia  for  some  distance  is  low  and  well 
wooded,  representing  by  its  depression  the  valley  of  the 
Wallamet.  Soon,  however,  the  rise  of  the  foot-hills  com- 
mences, then  the  very  mountains  themselves,  until  when 
you  have  arrived  at  the  Cascades,  you  are  in  their  very 
heart — you  actually  stand  in  a  gap  where  mighty  moun- 
tains have  been  parted.  Before  arriving  at  this  point,  the 
Lower  Cascades  village,  you  have  been  almost  sated  with 
magnificence,  but  when  you  leave  the  steamer  and  find 
yourself  standing  pigmy-like  in  the  midst  of  the  giant 
cliffs  and  peaks,  nothing  is  left  you  but  silent  awe  and 
delight.  .         , 


f 


SHERIDAN  S    FI8UT    BATTLE-GROUND,    COLUMBIA   RIVEU. 

The  "Cascades"  are  five  miles  of  continuous  rapids, 
where  the  river  forces  itself  over  a  rocky  inclined  hed^ 


ITS   SCENERY,    EXTENT,    AND   RESOURCES. 


569 


Oregon.    The 
lO  the  view  of 

The  Oregon 
low  and  well 
!  valley  of  the 
foot-hills  com- 
es, until  when 
in  their  very 
mighty  moun- 
this  point,  the 
lost  sated  with 
amer  and  find 

of  the  giant 
silent  awe  and 


;IA   UIVKU. 


itinuous  rapids, 
y  inclined  bed, 


through  the  heart  of  the  Cascade  Range.  These  rapids 
are  passed  by  six  miles  of  railway  portage ;  and  this  ride 
affords  such  opportunities  of  wonderful  sight-seeing  as  oc- 
cnr  but  seldom  to  the  traveler.  There  is  not  the  wild 
force  to  these  rapids  that  you  see  when  the  Niagara  rushes 
to  its  fall ;  but  the  variety  of  play  of  the  water  is  infinitely 
greater,  and  the  accessories  far  more  magnificent.  At  the 
upper  end  of  the  Cascades  is  another  little  village,  in  a 
most  picturesque  situation.  The  river  sets  back  here  be- 
fore rushing  through  the  narrow  gorge  of  the  rapids,  and 
forms  a  beautiful  bay  with  an  island  or  two  in  it,  and 
beautifully  wooded  shores.  Just  above  this  bay  is  a 
sunken  forest  comprising  a  belt  of  timber  a  mile  or  two 


CASTLE  ROCK. 


long  and  half  a  mile  wide,  nearly  submerged  by  the  wa- 
ters of  the  river.  Beyond,  the  first  thing  that  strikes  the 
eye  is  an  immensely  high  and  bald  perpendicular  cliflf  of 


570 


THE    COLUMBIA    RIVER. 


: 


red  rock,  pointed  as  a  pyramid  at  the  top,  which  h)oks  as 
if  freshly  split  oil'  or  parted  from  some  other  mass  of  rock, 
whieh  other  mass  is  nowhere  visible.  Here  comes  in  the 
Indian  tradition  of  a  bridge  that  once  existed  across  the 
Columbia  at  this  place,  and  which  subsequently  fell  in, 
])locking  up  the  river  bek)W  and  forming  the  rapids.  It 
looks  probable  enough  to  have  suggested  such  an  idea, 
even  to  an  Indian ;  though  the  savage  must  attach  a  le- 
gend of  offended  spirits  to  his  more  natural  conclusion  in 

order  to  account  for  it. 
The  height  and  grandeur 
of  the  mountains  above 
the  Cascades  is  so  great 
and  overpowering  that 
we  feel  no  disposition  to 
attempt  anything  like  a 
description.  It  cannot 
be  described — it  can  on- 
ly be  felt ;  and  that  news- 
paper correspondent 
who  lately  pronounced 
the  scenery  of  the  Co- 
lumbia River  as  insig- 
nificant, takes  rank  in 
our  estimation  beneath 
contempt.  The  Hudson, 
which  so  long  has  been 
the  pride  of  America,  is 
but  the  younger  brother 
of  the  majestic  Colum- 
bia. Place  a  hundi-ed 
Dunderbergs  side  by 
side,  and  you  have  some  conception  of  these  stupendous 
bluffs.     Treble  the  height  of  the  Palisades,  and  you  can 


IIOKSE-TAIL    FALL. 


1 


ITS   SCENERY,    EXTENT,    AND   RESOURCES. 


671 


« 
form   an  itlca   of   these   precipitous  cliirs.      Elevate  the 

dwarfed  evergreens  of  the  Hudson  Highlands  into  firs  and 
pines  like  these,  and  then  you  may  compare.  We  confess 
that  \\Q  never  enjoyed  a  journey  more  from  the  eomplete- 
iioss  of  its  impressions.  There  seemed  nothing  to  desire — 
wo  only  could  gaze  and  dream ;  for  even  these  wild  West- 
ern waters  are  not  without  their  historical  and  romantic 
interest.  Down  this  strong,  rapid,  high-walled  river,  fifty 
years  ago,  floated  the  annual  "brigade"  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company,  bringing  the  year's  accumulation  of  pel- 
tries and  the  annual  express  from  the  Red  River  settle- 
ments and  Canada.  Ten  years  earlier,  Lewis  and  Clarke 
had  descended  this  great  river  in  the  service  of  the  Gov- 


$ 


VIEW  ON   THE   COLUMBIA. 


ernment ;  and  a  few  years  later  a  part  of  the  Astor  Expe- 
dition suffered  all  but  death  passing  these  rugged  moun- 
tains in  the  winter.  Only  twenty  years  ago  the  yearly 
innnigration  to  Oregon,  arriving  at  the  Dalles  destitute 


iij 


572 


THE    COLUMHIA    RIVEU. 


;:  1 


and  sick,  late  in  the  soason,  were  dependent  on  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company's  boats  to  bring  them  down  to  the 
settlements.  It  was  a  terrible  passage,  and  many,  both 
of  boatmen  and  immigrants,  lost  their  lives  in  the  fearful 
rapids.  These  were  the  incidents  of  pioneer  life,  now 
passed  away ;  while  we,  tourists  at  leisure,  dream  and 
gaze  from  the  deck  of  a  first  class  steamer,  with  all  our 
wants  anticipated.  Twenty  years  more  will  work  mar- 
vels, but  it  is  with  feelings  of  satisfaction  that  we  re- 
flect it  is  not  possible  to  man  to  intermeddle  with  the 
eternal  majesty  of  these  mountains.  As  God  made  them 
so  they  shall  remain  to  be  the  wonder  of  all. 

"Here,"  says  our  captain,  "is  Wind  Mountain.  The  In- 
dian name  answers  to  our  word  enclmnted:  probably  be- 
cause the  Indians  found  it  so  dillicult  to  pass  here  when 
the  wind  was  foul."  On  the  opposite,  or  Oregon  side, 
just  where  the  foot-hills  commence,  is  a  fine  fruit-farm,  in 
a  delightful  situation,  with  Mt.  Hood  showing  just  back 
of  it.  About  thirteen  miles  above  the  Cascades  is  one  of 
the  finest  if  not  quite  the  finest  point  on  the  river. 
While  the  steamer  lies  at  a  wood-yard  taking  on  fuel,  we 
have  ti'T'o  to  observe  that  the  view  is  closed  on  either  side 
of  us  by  wooded  promontories  jutting  past  each  other, 
and  that  the  mountains  seem  to  have  attained  their  hicrh- 
est  on  either  side  of  the  river,  thus  enclosing  us  in  a  little 
sea,  girt  round  with  lofty  clifis  of  rugged  rocks,  or  forest- 
crowned  mountain  ridges.  Not  far  from  here  Hood  river 
comes  in,  cold  from  the  snows  of  the  mighty  mountain; 
and  the  very  best  view  of  that  mountain  is  to  be  obtained. 
So  near  does  it  seem  that  we  can  see  the  glistening  of  the 
snow  where  its  cliffs  reflect  the  sun.  Nearly  opposite,  the 
White  Salmon  enters  the  Columbia,  and  between  the  cleft 
heights  you  catch  a  passing  glimpse  of  Mount  Adams. 

On  leaving  the  summit  line  of  the  mountains  at  the 


ITS    8CKXEUY,    EXTKNT,    AND    UESOUIICES. 


573 


Cascades,  the  fir  begins  to  disappear  and  soon  the  only 
timber  seen  on  the  blull's,  is  i)inc  aiul  spruce.  Even  tliis 
becomes  scattering,  and  on  coming  near  the  Dulles,  the 
hills  arc  almost  bare.     The  worn  basaltic  rock  which  has 


MOUNT    HOOD    FROM    THE    UALLE8. 


cropped  out  all  along  the  river,  from  its  mouth  upward,  is 
here  everywhere  apparent,  protruding  from  the  hills  and 
walling  in  the  river  on  both  sides.  But  the  hills  are  less 
abrupt,  and  slope  back  in  long  swells  and  ridges,  covered 
with  grass  and  dotted  with  scattering  pines.  » ■' 

The  Dalles  (town)  is  a  thriving  business  place,  and  a 
point  of  importance  on  the  Columbia;  the  possible  ter- 
minus of  a  branch  Pacific  Railroad.  The  scenery  about 
the  Dalles  has  a  most  remarkable  wildness  and  singularity. 
You  stand  surrounded  with  evidences  of  the  time  when 
the  region  of  the  Columbia  river  was  one  vast  field  of 
molten  rock  and  liquid  fire.  Once  burnt  by  fire,  long 
since  worn  by  the  elements  into  horizontal  terraces,  or 


574 


THE    COLUMBIA    RIVER. 


■  ! 


perpendicular  columns,  and  needle-pointed  peaks,  scored 
and  seamed  in  every  direction,  cracked  and  toppling  tc 
their  fail,  the  rocks  which  characterize  the  whole  region 
of-the  Dalles  make  a  very  marked  impression  on  the  mind 
and  memory  of  the  beholder.  The  word  Dales  signifies 
troughs,  and  was  first  used  by  the  French  voyageurs  to 
describe  the  narrow  passage  through  which  the  river  is 
forced  at  this  place.  It  was  easily  corrupted  into  its  pres- 
ent agreeable  pronunciation,  and  remains  the  cognomen, 
not  only  of  the  trough  of  the  Columbia,  but  has  been  cou- 
ferred  upon  the  town  which  lies  just  below  the  Dale. 

The  river  narrows  on  approaching  Dalles  City,  the  be- 
ginning of  a  second  portage,  of  sixteen  miles,  and  flows 
through  a  sunken  channel  m  solid  rock  for  the  whole  of 
that  distance.  The  depth  of  the  fissure  which  forms  its 
bed  may  be  guessed  at,  when  it  is  remembered  that  just 
above  these  Dalles  the  river  is  over  a  mile  wide,  and  that 
in  one  part  of  its  passage  between  Celilo  and  Dalles  City, 
it  is  not  over  one  hundred  and  sixty  feet !  The  water  has 
a  dark  green  color,  and  boils  and  bubbles  like  the  witches' 
cauldron  in  Macbeth.  A  glance  at  the  map  will  suggest 
what  the  tumult  must  be  when  a  river,  whose  branches 
stretch  over  so  vast  an  extent  of  country,  is  compressed 
within  a  channel  fifty  yards  wide.  Yet  the  writer  has  con- 
versed with  a  lady  who  passed  through  this  terrible  strait 
in  a  Hudson's  Bay  barge,  when  the  oarsmen  were  thrown 
from  their  seats  by  the  violent  dashing  of  the  waves  made 
by  the  fearful  eddies — j  j.ssed  in  safety,  too,  though  it  was 
a  feat  seldom  attempted,  thfe  voyageurs  preferring  to  make 
the  portage  at  thic  place. 

The  geography  of  the  country,  and  the  rapid  develop- 
ment of  the  mining  regions  above,  seem  to  point  to  Dalles 
City  as  the  second  great  commercial  point  on  the  Colum- 
bia river.     The  town  stands  right  on  the  rocky  margin  of 


ITS  SCENERY,  EXTENT,  AND  RESOURCES. 


575 


the  river,  and  extends  back  over  the  gradual  rise  by  ter- 
races of  the  outcropping  trap-rock.  There  is  a  thin  soil 
of  black  mold  over  the  hills,  picturesque  groves  of  pines, 
and  a  coating  of  fine  grass.  Mt.  Hood  and  Mt.  Adams 
•iro  in  full  view,  and  in  the  cloudless  atmosphere  of  East- 
ern Oregon,  nearly  always  visible.  A  late  slight  eruption 
of  Mt.  Hood,  lasting  for  several  hours,  must  have  been 
distinctly  visible  from  this  point.  Some  historical  interest 
attaches  to  the  spot  where  Dalles  City  stands,  from  the 
fact  of  its  having  been  one  of  the  early  Missions,  and  one 
of  the  earliest  military  ^-osts  in  Oregon. 

A  railroad  portage  conveys  the  passenger  sixteen  miles 
to  Celilo ;  the  greatt."  portion  of  the  distance  being  close 
along  the  river,  in  sight  of  its  rapids  and  eddies.  There 
are  enormous  drifts  of  sand,  which  the  high  v/inds  keep 
constantly  shifting,  and  which  cause  much  annoyan^^e  both 
to  the  company  who  are  obliged  to  employ  men  to  clear 
the  track,  and  to  travelers  who  wish  to  see  the  country. 
These  drifts  extend  the  whole  length  of  the  road.  In  fa  :;^ 
everywhere  above  the  Dalles,  sand  and  wind  are  thp  ene- 
mies of  comfort  during  the  summer  months. 

Celilo  is  a  little  new  town,  with  no  pretensions  to  bus- 
ines3  except  such  as  the  0.  S.  N.  Company's  transactions 
there  furnish.  Its  distinguishing  feature  is  an  immense 
warehouse,  nearly  a  thousand  feet  in  length,  built  upon  an 
incline  of  forty  feet,  to  accommodate  boats  in  all  stages 
of  water.  This  great  warehouse  is  one  of  several  that 
will  be  built  at  points  along  the  river,  if  the  business  of 
the  upper  country  increases  as  there  is  every  reason  to 
believe  it  must  increase.  .,    ;  .;,> 

The  river  at  Celilo  and  for  a  long  distance  above  is  on^ 
continuous  expanse  of  foaming  rapids.  It  hurries  over 
broken  torturing  rocks,  lashing  itself  into  the  wildest  ex- 
citement, which  the  incline  of  its  bed  renders  more  im- 
37 


Mil  ;■ 


.i  i 


.\l  II 


i 


576 


THE    COLUMBIA    RIVER. 


petuous.  Such  is  the  rapidity  of  its  flow  that  the  water 
is  apparently,  and  r  j  doubt  actually,  piled  up  higher  in 
the  middle  of  the  channel,  so  that  it  seems  to  slope  ciff 
on  either  side. 

Just  above  Celilo  comes  in  the  Des  Chutes  Eiver,  very 
rapid  and  wid  ^  at  its  mouth  ;  and  a  little  further  up  on 
the  other  side  is  the  town  of  Columbus,  which  at  present 
is  little  more  than  a  wood-yard.  Tvvcnty  miles  above 
Celilo,  on  the  Oregon  side  again,  j  \\h  \y  River  comes 
by  a  narrow  high-walled  mouth  whica  g*  arcely  betrays  its 
locality.  A  few  wood-yards  and  the  Grande  Ronde  Land- 
ing are  the  only  improvements  along  the  river,  until  ive 
arrive  at  Umatilla,  ninetv-six  miles  above  the  Dalles. 
Along  this  whole  distance  not  a  single  tree  is  visible,  ex- 
cept such  willows  and  shrubs  as  grow  on  the  borders  of 
sand-bars  and  islands.  Umatilla,  or  Utilla,  as  the  Indian 
name  is  spelled,  is  a  new  and  still  very  small  town  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Umatilla  river,  and  derives  its  business  from 
the  fact  of  its  being  a  starting  point  for  the  mines  of  Boise 
and  Owyhee.  The  banks  of  the  Columbia  h  it  «,re  1ot7 
and  smooth,  and  nothing  is  in  sight  fron;  i „  ,k 'luer's 
deck  but  extensive  rolling  plains,  covered. vvn.!  ju  ■■•h- 
grass.  Back  ten  or  twelve  .liles  from  the  river,  ho,',v..er, 
some  timber  is  found  for  fuel,  and  Turther  back  in  the 
mountains  is  timber  in  abundance  for  lumbering  purposes. 

There  is  the  same  general  aspect  all  along  the  Columbia 
to  its  forks,  and  also  for  the  wh^i'^  length  of  its  southern 
branch,  the   Snake  or  Lewis  .    ,  Walbi^a,  situated  a 

few  miles  below  the  forks,  is  the  last  tow  -  Tany  impor- 
tance on  the  Columbia.  It  is  beautifull}?  '•■  :t/daGthe 
mouth  of  the  Walla-Walla  river,  nnd  is  a  point  of  consid- 
erable 'mportanc(^.  where  mii'iri'?  outfits  are  procured,  and 
freight  trains  started  out  fo/  'e  mines.  It  is  a  sort  of 
port  to  Walla- Walla,  thirty  miLs  further  on  the  road  to 


1    I 
J. I , 


y.;'Aw^:, 


ITS    SCENERY,    EXTENT,    AND    RESOUKCES. 


577 


Idaho.  Wallula  is  old  Fort  Walla- Walla,  while  Walla- 
Wiilla  City  is  near  the  old  Presbyterian  mission  of  Waii- 
latpu,  and  the  modern  Fort  Walla-Walla. 

"  White  Bluffs  is  situated  about  forty  miles  above  the  mouth  of  Snake  river. 
From  Wallula  to  White  Bluffs  the  rivjr  is  smooth  and  deep,  ofi'ering  no  ob- 
?tni(tious  whatever  to  navii;ation.  From  this  last  named  point  the  river  can- 
not be  navigated  furtlier  until  we  reach  Colville.  Between  these  two  j)laces  it 
makes  a  long  detour,  so  that,  following  its  course,  the  distance  irom  one  point 
to  the  other  is  about  350  miles.  The  stream  is  so  broken  by  rapids  the  whole 
wav  that  boats  cannot  run  upon  it.  The  bars  along  the  river  have  long  been 
worked,  yielaing  small  pay  ;  but  they  are  now  almost  abandoned  by  the  whites, 
who  are  looking  for  richer  mines,  and  in  their  stead  are  come  great  nimibers 
of  Chinese ;  some  from  Oregon,  but  the  greater  number  from  British  Colum- 
bia. It  is  believed  that  there  are  now  above  one  thousand  of  these  persons 
working  on  the  river  between  Priest's  Rapids  and  Colville.  They  are  said  to 
be  making  from  two  to  five  or  six  dollars  per  f'ay. 

From  White  Bluffs  to  ColviUe  by  land,  th'  distance  is  one  hundred  and  fifly 
miles.  The  road  is  excellent,  there  being  no  mountains  or  lulls,  and  but  one 
considerable  stream — the  Spokane — on  the  way.  White  Bluffs  is  the  nearest 
point  to  Colville  which  steamboats  can  reach,  and  is  nov  a  post  of  some  im- 
portance. It  seems  to  be  favorably  situated  to  receive  a  large  share  of  the 
trade  of  the  upper  Columbia  river. 

Above  Colville,  for  several  hundred  miles,  the  river  flows  through  a  succer- 
sion  of  lakes,  rendering  navigation  easy.  A  steamer  is  now  running  between 
Colville  and  Boat  Encampment.  Rich  mines  are  said  to  have  been  discovered, 
near  this  latter  place,  which  is  about  three  hundred  miles  beyond  Colville. 
About  fifty  miles  above  Colville  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  have  established 
a  new  trading  post  which  they  call  Fort  Shej)herd,  by  means  of  which  thej 
expect  to  command  Jie  tride  of  that  region.  There  has  been  much  activity  in 
the  search  for  gold  throughout  thi^  whole  region,  and  its  trade  steadily  in-- 
creases. 

There  hfvS  also  been  strong  effort  to  make  a  road  over  from  the  waters  of  Fra- 
per  river  to  the  Cwiambia,  but  the  attempt  has  resulted  in  nothing.  Between 
tliese  two  streams  there  is  an  exceedingly  high  chain  of  mountains  over  which 
it  will  b*5  forever  impossible  to  carry  goods.  Hence  everything  that  is  con- 
sumed east  of  these  high  mountains  must  go  by  way  of  the  Columbia." 

On  all  the  other  northern  branches  of  the  Columbia, 
the  Kootenai,  and  head-waters  of  the  Clark  especially, 
gold  has  been  discovered  in  paying  quantities,  causing  a 
rush  of  miners  to  those  districts,  and  the  consequent  ac- 
companiment  of  trade.      Already   there   is   competition 


'78 


THE    COLUMBIA    RIVER. 


[  "f's 


^ 


between  the  merchants  of  the  Missouri  and  those  of  the 
Columbia  as  to  the  profits  of  trade  in  the  Blackfoot  coun- 
try. Captain  Mullan,  in  his  "Miner's  and  Traveler's 
Guide,"  has  given  so  favorable  an  account  of  the  climate 
and  agricultural  resources  of  this  northern  region  that 
there  is  good  reason  to  believe  it  must  soon  be  settled  up 
by  a  permanent  farming  community.  The  numerous 
Catholic  Missions  established  through  this  region  confirm 
the  account  of  its  adaptability  to  settlement,  while  it  is  a 
well  established  fact  that  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's 
servants  have  had  farms  for  twenty -five  years  in  this  lati- 
tude, and  have  raised  the  same  crops  raised  in  our  north- 
western States.  The  yield  of  wheat  was  especially  good, 
averaging  forty  bushels  to  the  acre. 
.  From  these  facts  it  will  be  seen  that  the  Columbia  does 
not  rise  in  a  barren,  desolate  region  of  country  ;  and  that 
instead,  the  mighty  river  flows  from  first  to  last  through 
a  country  rich  in  mineral  and  agricultural  wealth,  only 
waiting  for  development. 

The  Snake,  or  Southern  branch  of  the  Columbia,  offers 
no  obstacle  to  continuous  navigation  by  the  Oregon  Steam 
Navigation  Company's  boats,  which  line  of  steamers 
run  regularly,  except  in  low  water,  from  Portland  to 
licwiston,  Idaho,  a  distance  of  about  four  hundred  miles. 
Beyond  this  point  navigation  is  interrupted  for  the  next 
one  hundred  ivnd  forty  miles,  by  falls  and  rapids.  Beyond 
this,  however,  it  is  believed  there  exists  no  obstacle  to 
navigation  for  another  two  hundred  miles ;  and  the  Ore- 
gon Steam  Navigation  Company  have  already  made  roads 
to,  and  built  steamers  on  this  portion  of  the  Snake  river, 
with  the  intention  of  carrying  passengers  and  freight  on 
this  route  as  far  as  the  crossing  of  the  Boise  and  Owyhee 
wagon-road.  It  is  expected  to  bring  the  boats  of  the 
Missouri  and  Columbia  within  five  hundred  miles  of  each 


ITS   SCENERY,    EXTENT   AND   RESOURCES. 


579 


other.  Under  these  circumstances  there  must  be  a  lively 
competition  for  the  trade  of  the  great  interior  mining  ter- 
ritories— a  competition  which  will  do  much,  with  that  of 
California  and  the  Colorado  river  projects,  to  open  up  and 
develop  the  country,  and  to  hasten  on  the  advent  in  these 
mountain  regions  of  the  iron  horse  and  the  great  Pacilic 
Railways. 

Very  much  of  the  development  of  Eastern  Oregon  and 
Idaho  is  owing  to  the  avcU  conducted  enterprises  of  the 
Oregon  Steam  Navigation  Company ;  and  it  is  only  proper 
in  speaking  of  the  resources  of  the  Columbia  to  make  the 
following  extract  from  the  letter  of  an  Oregon  gentleman 
and  pioneer : 

"  Some  dozen  or  more  years  a<jo  different  steamboat  projects  commenced 
upon  the  Columbia.  Then  there  were  no  mines  ibund,  and  the  inducement 
was  to  caiTy  the  freight  oi'  the  United  States  Government  to  military  posts  and 
Indian  Agencies,  in  the  interior;  transport  the  overland  emigrations,  and  have 
a  natural  increase  of  travel  with  the  expected  growth  of  the  upper  country. 
Gradually  steamboats  of  primitive  make  and  small  dimensions  were  built  on 
the  navigable  stretches  of  the  river  to  conntict  with  the  portages,  of  which  there 
arc  two — the  first  a  the  Ciiscades,  seventy  miles  from  Portland,  of  five  miles; 
and  another,  at  the  Dalles,  forty-five  miles  above,  of  fifteen  miles.  The  dis- 
covery of  gold  far  north,  at  Fraser  river  and  Powderway,  gave  some  of  these 
steamboat  and  railroad  men  a  confidence  that  the  mountains  east  were  all  gold- 
bearing.  On  the  strength  of  which  rude  tramways  or  railroads  were  made  at 
great  expense  around  the  Cascades  on  either  side  of  the  Columbia  river,  and 
indebtedness  and  expense  incurred  that  would  inevitably  have  ruined  the  men 
who  undertook  them,  only  that  time  justified  their  belief,  and  the  result  made 
them  rich,  for  which  they  have  to  thank  no  one  but  themselves.  Some  eight 
or  ten  years  ago,  ah  these  steamboat  interests  were  consolidated  under  the  pres- 
ent company.  As  the  business  increased,  the  improvements  of  the  company 
kept  pace  with  it,  and  to-day  elegant  boats  are  running  on  each  stretch  of  the 
river,  connected  by  twenty  miles  of  excellent  railroads,  one  of  six  miles  at  the 
Cascades,  and  one  of  fourteen  miles  at  the  Dalles.  The  Oregon  Steam  Navi- 
gation Company,  whose  original  capital  was  some  S300,%00  (or  at  least  the 
dill'erent  steamboat  lines  which  were  consolidated  were  assessed  at  that  figure,) 
now  own,  by  purchase,  the  railroE.d  lines  on  each  side  of  the  Cascades,  which 
gives  them  an  effective  monopoly,  and  have  property  valued  at  not  less  than 
$2,000,000.  Tliey  have  made  but  few  dividends,  never  more  than  twelve  per 
cent,  per  annum,  but  have  constantly  kept  adding  their  earnings  to  their  cap- 


i 


580 


THE    COLUMBIA    RIVER. 


■I 


'■ 


ital  in  the  way  of  improvements,  until  their  enterprise  has  made  the  difficult 
eliaunel  of  tlie  Columbia  one  of  the  most  varied  and  agreeable  lines  of  travel 
upon  this  continent,  llicir  wliarves,  warehouses,  railroads,  and  steamers  are 
maf^nificcnt  proofs  of  generous  enterprise,  and  their  honorable  pride  is  to  ex- 
tend and  improve  them  constantly  in  the  future. 

Thirteen  years  iigo  this  spring  I  ascended  tlie  Columbia  to  the  Dalles  in  row- 
boats  against  the  current.  It  took  us  seventeen  days  of  hard  labor  to  make 
the  up  trip.  Now  it  takes  us  ten  to  twelve  hours  to  accomplish  the  same  dis- 
tance in  comfort  and  sal'ety." 

The  scenery  of  the  Snake  River  resembles  that  of  the 
main  Columbia  above  the  Dalles,  except  that  it  is  upon  a 
smaller  scale.  Like  the  Upper  Columbia,  it  is  distinguish- 
ed for  its  falls  and  rapids.  The  American  Falls  furnishes 
one  of  the  finest  views  of  the  wonderful  forms  of  col- 
umnar basalt  to  be  found  anywhere.  The  river  here  flows 
between  high  picturesque  bluffs  of  weather-worn  trap 
rock,  and  falls  over  a  ledge  of  the  same;  the  fall  being 
divided  by  a  rocky  island  in  the  middle,  around  which  the 
water  sweeps  in  wild  haste  and  is  dashed  to  foam  as  it  de- 
scends upon  other  rocks  below,  rising  again  in  clouds  of 
spray  from  the  bosom  of  the  tortured  river. 

The  Owyhee,  the  Boise,  the  Payette,  the  Salmon,  and 
the  Clearwater,  are  all  more  or  less  important  tributaries 
of  the  southern  branch  of  the  Columbia  ;  flowing  as  they 
do  through  the  richest  mineral  districts,  watering  fertile 
valleys,  or  affording  water  and  water  power  to  the  miner. 
High  divides  generally  separate  the  several  water-courses, 
which  mountains  are  covered  with  excellent  timber.  The 
early  emigrant  to  Oregon  who  traversed  the  weary  road 
from  the  Mississippi  to  the  Lower  Columbia,  thought  all 
a  desert  that  laid  between  the  Rocky  and  Cascade  ranges 
of  mountains^  The  aspect  of  this  intermediate  territory 
will  henceforth  rapidly  be  changed.  No  more  weary 
marches  over  alkali  deserts,  sage  or  sand  plains;  no  more 
toiling  over  the  Blue  and  Cascade  Mountains.     No  more 


"■..".'.V     '.Tirrr,'-'.'^'!-; 


THE    COLUMBIA    RIVER. 


681 


starvation  and  misery  on  the  last  end  of  the  journey. 
]5oats  will  meet  the  emigration  somewhere  about  the  Big 
Camas  Prairie  at  all  events  before  it  enters  upon  the  rouo-h- 
est  portion  of  the  route,  and  thence  the  transit  to  the 
\\'allamet  Valley,  or  to  any  other  point  of  settlement  will 
be  made  easy. 


Mi 


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582 


MONTANA    TERRITORY. 


CHAPTER    XLVIII.  ..^ 

Gold  was  first  discovered  on  the  eastern  side  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  in  the  month  of  August,  1862,  by  a 
party  of  miners  who  wintered  on  the  head- waters  of  Jef- 
ferson's Fork :  since  which  time  new  discoveries  have  been 
constantly  made,  and  Montana  seems  in  a  fair  way  to  grow 
rapidly  into  a  State.  Towns  are  starting  up  in  every  part 
of  the  Territory,  whose  growth  will  not  be  permanently 
checked  even  by  a  failure  of  the  mining  interests  of  the 
country. 

All  writers  from  Montana  agree  in  pronouncing  it  to  be 
the  most  delightful  mountain  country  they  have  ever 
visited ;  but  as  successful  gold-hunters  are  not  always  to 
be  believed  by  those  who  have  no  interests  in  their  favor- 
ite region,  we  have  thought  best  to  ignore  their  opinions 
entirely,  and  quote  from  authorities  whose  only  business 
in  that  country  has  been  to  explore  it.  In  the  Report  of 
Gov.  Stevens,  on  the  Pacific  Railroad,  we  find  the  fol- 
lowing:— 

"  If  the  voyageur  traveling  over  this  country,  whatever  route  he  taJces,  be 
asked  what  sort  of  a  country  it  is,  he  will  tell  you,  an  excellent  country  for  trav- 
eling— wood,  water,  and  grass  everywhere.  But  the  pine  of  the  Spokane  ex- 
tends nearly  to  its  mouth,  and  for  some  miles  souH  of  the  river.  Tlie  Spokane 
ie.  the  name  of  the  main  stream  to  its  junction  w  ith  the  Coeur  d'  Alcne  river, 
when  its  name  is  given  to  a  smaller  tributary  coming  from  the  north,  the  Coeiir 
d'  Alene  being  the  main  stream.  One  of  the  most  beautiful  features  of  the 
Coeur  d'  Alene  river  and  country  is  the  Coeur  d'  Alcne  lake,  which  is  embo- 
Bomed  in  the  midst  of  gently  sloping  hills,  covered  with  a  dense  forest  growth ; 
the  irregularity  of  its  formi  and  the  changing  aspect  of  the  scenery  about  it, 
makes  it  one  of  the  most  picturesque  objects  in  the  interior.     Tlie  Coeur  d 


MONTANA   TERRITORY. 


583 


Alcnc  river  itself  has  tributaries  flowing  from  near  the  main  divide  of  the  Hiiier 
Hoot,  the  most  considerable  of  which  is  the  St.  Joseph's  river,  which  lias  a  gen- 
eral parallel  direction  with  the  Coeur  d'  Alene,  and  is  about  twenty  miles  south 
oi'  it. 

••  The  whole  ^  alley  of  the  Coeur  d'  Alenc  and  Spokane  is  well  .adapted  to 
si^ttU'nient,  abounding  in  timber  for  building  and  for  fires,  exceedingly  well  wa- 
tt'ii'd,  and  the  greater  portion  of  the  land  arable. — North  of  the  Great  IMain,  that 
is  Iroiu  the  Spokane  to  the  4f)tli  parallel  cast  of  the  main  Columbia,  the  country 
ibr  the  most  part  is  densely  wo(Kled,  although  many  valleys  and  oj)en  places  oc- 
cur, some  of  them  now  occupied  by  settlers,  and  all  presenting  advantages  ibr 
settlement.  Down  Clarke's  Fork  itself  there  are  open  patches  of  considerable 
size,  and  so  on  the  k<joten.!i  River.  North  of  the  Spokane  is  a  large  prairie, 
known  as  the  Coeur  d'  Alene  prairie,  through  which  the  trail  passes  from  Walla- 
Walla  to  Lake  Pend  d'  Oreille.     This  prairie  contains  some  six  hundred  square 

Illllt'S  ^        ^        w         ^         w        W 

"  It  is  the  country,  there.forc,  between  these  two  great  backbones  of  the  Rocky 
Jlountains  which  I  now  wish  to  describe,  and  especially  will  I  first  call  atten- 
tion to  that  beautiful  region  whose  streams,  flowing  from  the  great  semicircle  of 
the  Rocky  Moiuitains  before  referred  to,  pass  through  a  delightful  grazing  and 
aiable  country,  and  find  their  confluence  in  the  Bitter  Boot  River,  opposite  Hell- 
Gate. 

"  From  Big  Hole  Prairie,  on  the  south,  flows  the  Bitter  Root  River,  which  has 
also  a  branch  from  the  southwest,  up  which  a  trail  is  nmch  used  by  Indians  and 
voyageurs  passing  to  the  Nez  Perce  country  and  Walla-Walla.  The  Bitter 
Root  valley,  above  Hell-Gate  river,  is  about  eighty  miles  long,  and  from  three  to 
ten  in  width,  having  a  direction  north  and  south  from  the  soiu'ces  of  the  Bitter 
Root  river  to  its  junction  with  the  Hell-Gate.  Besides  the  outlet  above  men- 
tioned,* towards  the  Kooskooskia,  which  is  the  most  diflleult,  it  has  an  excellent 
wagon-n)ad  communication  at  its  head  by  the  Big  Hole  Pass  to  Jefferson's  Fork, 
Fort  Hall,  and  other  points  southward,  as  well  as  by  the  Hell-Gate  routes  to  the 
eastward.  From  its  lower  end,  at  the  junction  of  the  Hell-Gate,  it  is  believed 
the  Bitter  Root  river  is,  or  can  be  made,  navigable  for  small  steamers  for  long 
distances,  at  least,  thus  affording  an  easy  outlet  to  its  products  in  the  natural 
direction.  Hell-Gate  (Pass)  is  the  debauche  of  all  the  considerable  streams 
which  flow  into  the  Bitter  Root,  eighty-five  miles  below  its  source  at  the  Big 
Hole  divide.  Tlio  distance  from  Hell-Gate  to  its  junction  with  the  Bitter  Root 
is  fifteen  miles.  It  must  not  be  understood  from  the  term  Hell-Gate  that  here 
is  a  narrow  passage  with  perpendicular  bluffs ;  on  the  contrary  it  is  a  wide, 
o])en,  and  easy  pass,  in  no  case  being  less  than  half  a  mile  wide,  and  the  banks 
not  subject  to  overflow.  At  Hell-Gate  is  the  junction  of  two  streams,  the  one 
being  the  Hell-Gate  river,  and  the  other  the  Big  Blackftrot  river.  Tlie  Hell- 
Gate  itself  drains  the  semicircle  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  from  parallel  45  '  45' 
to  parallel  46  '  30',  a  distance  on  the  di^  ,de  of  eighty  miles.     The  upper  waters 


*  Omitted  here. 


584 


MONTANA   TEUUITORY. 


of  this  river  rnnnoct  with  Wisdom  Rivor,  over  a  low  and  easy  divide,  across 
whicli  Lii'ut.  Aliilliin  witli  liis  party  moved  on  Dec.  31,  18.53. 

"Moviii|j;  down  tliis  valli'y  (itleen  miles,  we  eomo  to  a  most  beautiful  prairie 
known  as  the  J)eer  Lod;;e,  a  great  resort  for  <^ame,  and  a  favorite  restinj^  phico 
for  Indians — mild  tlirotiifh  tlie  wintt^r,  and  aH'ordinijf  incxliausUble  ;^rass  tho 
year  nmnd.  Thi'i-e  is  a  remarliable  euriosity  in  lliis  valley — the  Koilinj;  Snrini's 
whieli  have  been  described  by  Lieut.  Miillan.  This  Deer  Lodge  Prairie  is  wa- 
tiTed  l)y  many  streams,  tliose  cominif  frcm  tlie  cast,  liaving  tht'ir  sources  also  in 
the  Rocky  .^h)untain  divide,  and  tliese  cominif  from  the  west  in  tlie  low,  rollin" 
and  open  country  intervening  between  the  Ilell-Gate  and  IJitter  Root  riverr. 

"The  Little  Rlackfoot,  whicli  has  been  referred  to,  is  one  of  the  most  impor- 
tant streams  on  the  line  of  communication  through  this  whole  mountain  region. 
It  has  an  open,  well-grassed,  and  araV)le  valley,  with  sweet  cotton-wood  on  the 
streams,  and  pine  generally  on  the  slopes  of  tho  hills ;  but  tho  forests  are  quite 
open,  and  both  on  its  northern  and  southern  slopes  there  is  much  prairie  coun- 
try. 'J"he  IJttle  IMackfoot  river  furnishes  two  outk;ts  to  the  country  to  the  east 
It  was  the  southern  one  of  these  passes,  connecting  with  the  southern  tributary 
of  the  Prickly  Pear  creek,  tliat  Mr.  Tinkham  passed  over  in  IH.'JS,  and  deter- 
mined a  ])r()file  of  the  route.  It  was  also  passed  over  by  Lieut.  Mullan  on  his 
trip  from  the  Muscle  Shell,  in  1853,  but  the  northern  pass  was  first  discovered 
by  Lieut.  Mullan  when  he  passed  over  it  with  a  wagon  from  Fort  Benton,  in 
IMarch,  18.04.  There  is  anotlier  tributary  of  the  Little  Rlackfbot  flowing  into 
it  below  the  point  vhere  Lieut.  Mullan  struck  it  with  bis  wagon,  which  may 
furnish  a  good  pass  to  the  plains  of  the  Missouri.  Its  advantages  and  characjter 
were  described  to  him  by  the  Indians. 

"Passing  down  the  IIell-Gat«  river,  from  the  mouth  of  the  Little  Bl.ackfoot, 
we  come  to  several  tributaries  flowing  from  the  south.  Flint  Creek,  one  of  them, 
is  a  large  stream,  uj)  the  valley  of  which  there  is  a  short  route  to  the  Bitter 
Root  valley,  in  a  direction  west-southwest  from  its  junction  with  Ilell-Gate. 
On  tli(!se  rivers  are  prairies  as  large  as  the  Deer  Lodge  prairie,  and  the  whole 
country  between  the  Deer  Lodge  Prairie  due  west  to  the  Bitter  Root  valley 
consists  much  more  of  prairie  than  of  forest  land. 

"The  Ilell-Gate  river  is  thus  seen  to  be  one  hundred  and  thirty  miles  long, 
flowing  for  sixty  miles  through  the  broad  and  fertile  Deer  Lodge  Prairie,  which 
•  is  estimated  to  contain  eight  hundred  squiire  miles  of  arable  land.  Tlicn  taking 
a  direction  more  transverse  to  the  mormtain,  opens  its  valley,  continues  from 
two  to  fiv(!  miles  wide,  until  its  junction  with  the  Big  Elackfoot,  at  Ilell-Gate, 
after  which  it  widens  out  to  unite  with  the  valley  of  the  Bitter  Root.  On  this 
part  of  it  there  are  least  one  hundred  and  fifty  sqtiarc  miles  of  fine  arable  land, 
and  as  much  grazing  prairie  on  the  adjoining  hills.     #**♦♦• 

Passing  from  the  Hell-Gate  to  the  Flathead  River,  we  cross  over  this  spur 
by  a  low  divide,  going  through  the  Coriacan  defile,  and  coming  upon  the  waters 
of  the  .Tocko  river.  The  height  of  this  divide  above  the  Hell-Gate  is  560  feet, 
and  above  the  Flathead  river,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Jocko,  is  650  feet.  From 
this  divide  a  view  of  surpassing  beauty,  looking  northward,  is  presented  to  the 


MONTANA   TEUUITORY. 


585 


easy  divido,  across 


Iwliiilili  r.  IIo  sooM  l)efor((  him  an  oxtraonliiiiirily  wcll-jjriissod,  woll-walorud 
;uiil  inviting;  country.  On  the  East  aro  the  divides,  clothed  with  pine,  separat- 
iiii;  the  Jocko  and  its  tributaries  from  the  streams  runninjj;  into  the  IJi"'  hlaclc- 
tljut,  and  into  Flathead  Laiic.  To  the  Nortli  the  Fhitliead  Laice,  twenty-fivo 
iiiik's  hu'^  and  six  miles  wide,  is  sjjrcad  ojjcn  l.>eturi!  you  with  extensive  ])rairie8 
iH'yond,  and  on  the  West,  sloj)ini^  hacic  ti-oni  the  banks  of  the  Flathead  Kiver 
a  uiin;j;led  prairie  and  forest  country  is  seen.  Here  in  a  (compact  body,  is  ono 
of  the  most  jjromising  countries  in  tliis  whole  region,  having  at  least  2  000 
wiiiaiv  miles  of  arable  land. 

Below  tlie  lake  the  Flathead  River  flows,  following  its  windings  some  fifty 
miles,  to  its  junction  with  tlie  Bitter  Root,  where  the  united  streams  assunm  the 
name  of  Clarke's  Fork.  In  this  distance  it  is  100  t«  200  yards  wide,  and  so 
due])  as  to  be  fbrdablo  with  difTieulty  at  low  water,  its  depth  being  three  feet  in 
the  shiJlowest  places.  Its  current  is  rapid,  and  there  is  a  fall  of  fifteen  feet, 
five  miles  below  the  Lake.  About  eigliteen  miles  below  the  lake  it  receives  a 
considerable  stream  from  the  northwest  called  Hot  Spring  Creek.  In' 
its  valley,  and  around  it,  is  also  a  largo  extent  of  fine  land.  Nearly  opposite,  a 
siiiiiil  stream  runs  in  from  the  East,  and  another  from  the  same  side  ten  ndles 
l)cl(j\v,  by  which  there  are  routes  to  the  upper  part  of  Big  Blackfoot  Valley. 
Nunc  of  the  branches  of  Clarke's  Fork  above  the  junction  can  be  considered 
n:ivij,'able,  but  the  river  itself,  (Flathead,)  with  the  exception  of  the  rapids 
and  falls  below  the  lake,  whicli  may  be  passed  by  a  short  canal,  gives  a  naviga- 
tion of  at  least  seventy-fiv«!  miles  to  the  head  of  Flathead  Lake.      *     »     *     • 

About  one  hundred  and  thirty  miles  above  the  mouth  of  Clarke's  Fork  is  the 
IViid  d'Oreille  or  Kalispelum  Lake,  which  is  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water  about 
forty-five  miles  in  length,  formed  by  the  dilation  of  the  river.  Tlie  river  is 
."luggish  and  wide  for  some  twenty-six  miles  below  the  lake,  where  rapids  occur 
iliiriiig  low  water.  Steamboats  could  ascend  from  this  point  to  a  point  nine 
inilt's  above  the  lake,  or  eighty  tniles  in  all.  At  high  water  they  could  ascend 
iiiucli  farther.  Between  the  Cabinet  (twenty-five  miles  above  the  lake)  and  a 
]ioint  seventy-five  miles  below  the  lake,  (a  total  distance  of  one  hundred  and 
forty  miles,)  the  only  obstacle  which  occurs  is  whe  ■  '1'  river  is  divided  by 
rocky  islands,  with  a  fall  of  six  and  a-half  feet  on  ono  side.  The  valley  of 
(liuke's  Fork  is  generally  wide,  arable,  and  inviting  settlement,  though  much 
of  it  is  wooded.        «*###***** 

From  the  divide  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  to  the  divide  of  the  Bitter  Root 
Jlountains  there  is  an  bitermediate  resiion,  over  one-third  of  which  is  a  cultiva- 
hh  area,  and  a  large  portion  of  it  is  prairie  country,  instead  of  a  wooded  or 
mountain  country.  The  following  estimate  gives  in  detail  the  areas  of  arable 
Imd,  so  far  as  existing  information  enables  it  to  be  computed :  In  the  region 
watered  by  the  Bitter  Root  River  and  its  tributaries,  not  including  Ilell-Gate, 
the  prairie  region  may  be  estimated  at  three  thousand  square  miles ;  in  that 
vtatercd  by  the  Hell-Gate  and  its  tributaries,  including  the  whole  country 
south  and  west  to  the  Bitter  Root,  but  not  including  the  Big  Blackfoot,  there 
is  a  prairie  region  of  two  thousand  five  hundred  square  raileS ;  in  that  watered 


!'  I 


58G 


MONTANA    TKRUITOIIY. 


l>y  till'  ]V\'^  Bliickfoot  and  its  tribiitaric'<<,  the  prairie  rcp;ion  is  one  thousand  throe 
htuidri'il  siitian'  miles.  The  country  watered  by  the  Flathead  River,  down  to 
its  junction  with  the  Bitter  Itoot,  and  tlienee  down  Clarke's  Fork  to  the  Cabini't 
has  a  iirairie  rei^ion  of  two  thousand  five  hundred  H<[iiare  miles.  Tlu;  country 
watered  by  tlie  Kootenai  has  two  thousand  s((uare  miles  of  prairie.  Thus  we 
have,  in  round  numbers,  eleven  thousand  three  hundred  mpiare  miles  of  prairie 
bind.  The  whole  area  of  the  mountain  re^^ion,  (fW)m  the  divide  of  the  Itoeky 
Mountains  to  the  divide  of  the  Bitter  Hoot,  and  from  45  30'  t<i  tl)  )  is  about 
thirty  thousand  sijuare  miles,  and  it  will  be  a  small  estimate  to  put  the  arable 
land  of  the  prairie  and  the  forest  at  twelve  thousand  square  miles.  'ITiug  the 
country  in  the  Forks  of  the  Flathead  and  Bitter  lloot,  stretching  away  east 
above  the  Blackfoot  Canon  is  mostly  table-land,  well  watensd  and  arable,  ami 
on  all  these  tril)utaries — the  Bitter  lloot,  the  Hell-Gate,  the  Big  Blackfoot,  the 
Jocko,  the  IMaple  River,  the  Hot  Sjtring  River,  and  the  Lou-Lou  Fork  itself— 
the  timber-laud  will  be  found  umpiestionably  bet'  *han  the  prairie-land.  It 
will  not  be  in  the  immediate  bottom  or  valley  c  nver  where  farmers  will 

find  their  best  locations,  but  on  the  smaller  tril  .,  some  few  miles  above 

their  junction  with  the  main  streams.  Tlie  traveler  passing  up  these  rivers, 
and  seeing  a  little  tributary  breaking  out  in  the  valley,  will  on  going  up  it,  in- 
variably come  to  an  open  and  beautiful  country.  The  observer  who  has  passed 
through  this  country  oflen,  who  has  had  with  him  intelligent  men  who  have 
lived  in  it  long,  who  understands  intercourse  with  the  Indians,  and  knows  how 
to  verify  information  which  they  give  him,  will  be  astonished  at  the  conclusions 
which  he  will  reach  in  regard  to  tlie  agricultural  advantages  of  this  country, 
and  it  will  not  be  many  years  before  the  progress  of  settlements  will  establish 
its  superiority  as  an  agricultural  region." 

The  prediction  of  the  hite  distinguished  explorer  is 
about  to  be  realized,  more  rapidly  perhaps  than  he  had 
ever  contemplated.  Though  owing  its  rapid  settlement 
to  the  discovery  of  mines  of  gold  and  silver,  Montana 
Territory  is  destined  to  retain  a  large  proportion  of  its 
adventurous  population,  and  to  invite  permanent  settlers 
by  the  greatness  of  her  varied  resources,  for  besides  the 
precious  metals,  her  valleys  abound  in  the  more  common 
and  useful  materials  of  marble,  limestone,  cinnabar,  cop- 
per, sandstone,  lead,  plumbago,  iron,  coal,  and  the  best  of 
timber  for  lumbering  purposes.  Add  to  these  a  most 
healthful  and  delightful  climate,  and  the  most  agreeable 
scenery,  and  there  is  nothing  left  to  desire  which  should 
constitute  a  happy  home  for  thousands  of  hardy  emigrants. 


MONTANA   TEIIRITORY. 


687 


# 


Rcmarha  on  the  Climate  of  Montana.  The  first  iiivol- 
untiiry  remark  of  those  who  liave  never  considered  the 
subject,  is,  that  a  railroad  carried  as  far  north  as  Montana 
^vould  be  almost  certain  to  be  annually  obstructed  by- 
snows.  A  brief  review  of  the  facts,  however,  will  speedily 
convince  the  intelligent  reader  that  of  the  two  roads  the 
Northern  and  the  Central,  the  former  will  not  be  in  as 
much  danger  from  a  snow  blockade  as  the  latter.  In  the 
first  place,  the  actual  altitude  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  is 
not  so  great  in  the  latitude  of  Montana  as  it  is  on  the  lino 
of  the  Central  road  by  about  two  thousand  feet.  Secondly, 
Montana  has  a  climate  modified  both  by  the  warm  winds 
that  blow  from  the  hot  plains  of  the  southwest,  and  over 
the  boiling  springs  of  a  large  tract  of  volcanic  country  to 
the  south  of  it,  or  rather  in  its  southern  part.  And  besides 
all  these  modifying  local  circumstances  the  isothermal  line 
which  crosses  it,  and  has  its  course  westwardly  to  Puget's 
Sound,  has  a  mean  annual  temperature  of  50°,  thus  deter- 
mining the  question  of  climate.         .,         ^    ...... 

Experience,  however,  is  the  one  authority  to  which  men 
safely  and  confidently  refer,  and  this  is  in  favor  of  Montana. 
If  the  reader  has  noted  the  fact  so  often  mentioned  in  the 
narrative  portion  of  this  book,  that  the  hunters  and  trap- 
pers of  the  Rocky  Mountains  seldom  or  never  wintered 
near  the  South  Pass,  but  had  their  favorite  wintering 
grounds  in  the  bend  of  the  Yellowstone,  or  upon  the  bor- 
ders of  one  of  the  affluents  of  the  Missouri  nearly  directly 
oast  of  the  Pass  talked  of  for  the  No  'thern  Railroad,  he 
must  at  once  have  come  to  the  conclusion  that  the  climate 
of  this  region  is  superior  in  mildness  to  thirt  farther  south. 
It  was  here  that  the  fur-hunters  found  grass  and  sweet  cot- 
ton-wood for  their  animals,  and  it  was  hei'e  that  game 
resorted  for  food  during  the  snows  of  winter  in  such 
numbers  as  to  fairly  invade  the  camps  of  the  companies. 


t 


ti 


•^^pmx^^a^jgw^:  ■■ 

t 

i 

i 

1 

1 

588 


MONTANA   TERRITORY. 


-U''iv:^'li.v 


Resources  of  Montana.  Besides  the  precious  metals, 
which  have  yielded  since  1864  a  sum  of  $80,000,000, 
Montana  contains  also  an  abundance  of  copper,  iron,  coal, 
salt,  and  other  metals  and  minerals.  Its  lumbering  re- 
sources are  about  equal  to  those  of  Washington  Territory, 
and  its  farming  resources  probably  are  s\iperior.  Nowhere 
in  the  new  Territories  is  there  a  better  opening  for  regular 
and  legitimate  labor,  notwithstanding  iiiQ  reputation  of 
Montana  is  based  principally  upon  its  mines. 


.»>;:■;>  •■'^ 


'.     v.;.,   ,     -:->.:.^ 


'■  «i  <  ,i,}i:i'  r?:^'   ^■"'''    ''    •■;><:    ■;f-;.zrtJ!0  -tfF'/li^-'S^dJ   I 


■•n^'my 


GENERaiL   REMARKS   ON   THE   NORTHWEST    COAST.         589 


precious  metals, 
of  $80,000,000, 
)pper,  iron,  coal, 
s  lumbering  re- 
ngton  Territory, 
erior.  Nowhere 
ming  for  regular 
e  reputation  of 

LOS. 

.' •*  ■  i'  ,  -- 


.;  i'   'rt. 


,-.l'VJ- 


Of    £5! 

h  --.^  m  st 


CHAPTER    XLIX. 

Climate  of  the  Pacific  Coast  The  Western  coasts  of 
all  large  bodies  of  land  have  a  warmer  temperature  than 
the  Eastern.  Latitude  on  the  Pacific  coast  seems  to  have 
but  little  influence  on  climate,  compared  to  its  effect  on 
the  coast  of  the  Atlantic.  Astoria,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Columbia  river,  has  a  mean  temperature  of  54°,  while 
Nisqually,  on  Puget  Sound,  being  a  degree  further  north, 
but  also  a  considerable  distance  inland  from  the  ocean,  has 
a  mean  temperature  of  58.5".  Frost  seldom  penetrates 
the  ground  anywhere  near  the  coast,  and  it  never  snows  at 
Astoria,  though  snow  sometimes  falls  in  the  northern  por- 
tion of  the  Olympic  peninsula  in  Washington  Territory. 
The  places  named,  be  it  remembered,  are  in  the  same  lat- 
itu'le  with  the  Lake  Superior  region  and  the  Sault  St. 
Marie  of  the  Western  States,  and  of  the  frozen  coast  of 
Nfiw  Brunswick. 

As  we  proceed  inland  greater  extremes  of  heat  and 
cold  are  experienced.  At  Portland,  which  is  in  latitude 
if''^  30',  the  mean  summer  temperature  is  60.33°,  although 
there  are  occasional  days,  two  or  three  together,  when  the 
thormometej-  stands  at  110°  in  the  shade  durinc:  three  or 
four  hours  of  the  afternoon,  suddenly  falling,  at  the  ap- 
proach of  evening.  The  winters  in  the  interior  vary 
greatly  in  degrees  of  cold.  It  is  very  raiely  that  the 
ground  is  frozen,  or  that  snow  lies  upon  the  ground ;  yet 
the  "  oldest  inhabitants  "  remember  one  winter  when  the 


V 


590        GENERAL   REMARKS    ON   THE    NORTHWEST    COAST. 


:.:l 


thermometer  fell  to  15°  beloAV  zero  in  the  Wallamet  valley, 
and  to  20"  below  zero  in  the  Umpqua  valley,  which  is  rather 
more  elevated.  It  is  to  elevation  in  fact  that  the  great 
differences  of  climate  are  due  in  this  region.  Sixty  miles 
away  from  Portland,  in  the  Cascade  Mountains,  it  is  cold 
and  snowing  heavily,  when  there  is  a  warm  rain  at  tliis 
point.  Snow  also  falls  in  the  Coast  Mountains,  while  on 
either  side  of  them  there  is  perpetual  verdure. 

At  the  Dalles,  very  nearly  east  of  Portland,  but  on  the 
other  side  of  the  Cascade  Mountains,  there  is  an  entirely 
different  climate.  From  the  superior  elevation  of  the 
country  w^e  might  look  for  much  more  severe  cold  in  win- 
ter, and  a  cooler  temperature  in  summer.  But  here  anoth- 
er modifying  influence  comes  in — that  of  the  warm  air  from 
the  great  burning  plains  of  California  and  the  south.  The 
Cascade  Mountains  intercept  the  moisture  from  the  ocean, 
which  is  discharged  in  rain  on  the  valleys  cf  Western  Ore- 
gon, while  Eastern  Oregon  lies  under  a  cloudless  sky,  and 
is  warmed  by  the  heated  air  from  the  rainless  country  far- 
ther to  the  south.  This  rarefied  air  rising,  causes  the  set- 
ting in  of  the  strong  current  of  air  from  the  ocean  which 
gives  to  Western  Oregon  its  steady  prevailing  winds; 
these  winds  blowing  from  the  northwest  in  summer,  and 
from  ttie  southwest  in  winter.  Under  these  influences 
while  Western  Oregon  and  Washington  have  a  moist  cli- 
mate, Eastern  Oregon  and  Idaho  have  a  very  dry  climate. 
The  summers  are  hot  and  dry,  frosts  commence  in  October, 
but  the  winter  does  not  begin  until  quite  late,  and  lasts 
but  a  short  time,  with  little  rain  and  snow.  Ten  degrees 
below  zero  is  reckoned  exceedingly  cold  on  these  plains. 
Nearer  to  the  mountain  ranges  to  the  cast,  there  is  more 
rain,  and  greater  variability  of  climate,  though  it  still  con- 
tinues mild.  On  the  Clearwater,  in  Northern  Idaho,  three 
years  observations  place  the  mean  temperature  at  53* ; 


EST    COAST. 

Wallamet  valley, 
y,  which  is  rather 
it  that  the  great 
ion.  Sixty  miles 
untains,  it  is  cold 
iTarm  rain  at  this 
untains,  while  on 
srdure. 

•tland,  but  on  the 
re  is  an  entirely 
elevation  of  the 
ivere  cold  in  win- 
But  here  anoth- 
the  warm  air  from 
d  the  south.    The 
e  from  the  ocean, 
3  of  Western  Ore- 
cloudless  sky,  and 
nless  country  far- 
g,  causes  the  set- 
the  ocean  which 
)revailing  winds; 
t  in  summer,  and 
these   influences 
have  a  moist  cli- 
very  dry  climate, 
lence  in  October, 
te  late,  and  lasts 
w.     Ten  degrees 
.  on  these  plains. 
ist,  there  is  more 
lough  it  still  con- 
lern  Idaho,  three 
perature  at  53' ; 


GENERAL   REMARKS   ON    THE   NORTHWEST    COAST. 


591 


and  at  Ft.  Colville  the  mercury  sometimes  rises  to  100° 
ill  summer,  and  falls  to  12'^  in  winter.  This  portion  of  the 
country  is  subject  to  heavy  frosts  in  Spring,  which  makes 
the  season  of  planting  and  harvesting  shorter. 

Captain  Mullan  accounts  for  the  :jiild  climate  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains  in  Montana  by  supposing  that  the  infi- 
nite number  of  hot-springs  and  geysers  which  exist  at  the 
head- waters  of  the  Columbia,  Missouri,  and  Yellowstone 
Rivers,  must  modify  the  climate  of  this  elevated  region. 
He  also  says  further :  .  ■• 

'•llic  meteorological  statistics  collected  during  a  great  number  of  years  have 
enabled  us  to  trace  an  isocluincnal  line  across  the  continent,  from  St.  Josej)h's, 
Mi-ssouri,  to  the  Pacific,  and  the  direction  taken  by  this  line  is  wonderful  and 
worthy  the  most  important  attention  in  all  future  legislation  that  looks  towards 
till!  travel  and  settlement  of  this  country.  Ihis  line  which  leaves  St.  Joseph's 
in  latiuide  40",  follows  the  general  line  of  the  Platte  to  F  irt  Laramie,  where, 
tinm  newly  introduced  causes,  it  t-nds  northwestwardly  between  the  Wind 
Rivur  chain  and  the  Black  Hills,  <  'lie  summit  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  in 


lalitiide  47"  ;   showinsr  that  in  the  ii 


•  )m 


Si 


ph's  it  had 


<\ 


di','rcc3  of  latitude.  Tracing  it  still  further  we  i  ward  it  goes  as  high  as  48", 
and  developes  itself  in  a  fan-like  shape  in  the  plain-j  of  the  Cohnnbia.  From 
I'ort  Laramie  to  the  Clarke's  Fork,  I  call  this  an  atnK^  pheric  river  ui'  heat,  vary- 
ing' in  width  from  one  to  one  hundred  miles.  On  its  either  side,  north  anil  -outh, 
are  walls  of  cold  air,  and  wliicli  are  so  clearly  perceptible,  that  you  .Jways 
(li'tt'c't  when  you  are  upon  its  shores. 

It  would  seem  natural  that  the  large  volume  of  air  in  motion  between  the 
Wind  lliver  chain  and  the  Black  Hills  must  receive  a  certain  amount  of  heat  as 
it  passes  over  the  line  of  hot  boiling  springs  here  found,  which,  ail  led  to  the 
great  heat  evolved  from  the  large  volumes  of  water  here  existin;;.  rh  is  con- 
stantly cumulative,  must  all  tend  to  modify  its  temperatui-e  to  i.  ,  extent  that 
the  thermometer  detects.  The  prevalent  direction  of  the  winds,  the  physical 
liiec  of  the  country,  its  altitude,  and  the  large  volume  of  water,  all,  doubtless. 
enter  to  create  this  modification ;  but  from  whatsoever  cause  it  arises,  it  exists 
as  a  fact  that  must  for  all  time  enter  as  an  element  worthy  of  every  attention 
in  lilies  of  travel  and  communication  from  the  eastern  plains  to  the  north  Pa- 
cific. A  comparison  of  the  altitude  of  tlie  South  Pass,  with  the  country  on  its 
every  side,  with  MuUan's  Pass,  further  to  the  north,  may  be  useful  in  this  con- 
neetion.  The  South  Pass  has  an  altitude  of  seven  thousand  four  hundred  and 
eiijihty-nine  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  Wind  River  chain,  to  its 
north,  rises  till  it  attains,  at  Fremont's  Peak,  an  elevation  of  thirteen  thousand 
five  hundred  and  seventy  feet,  while  to  the  north  the  mountains  increase  in  al- 

38 


\  m 


i  ; 


ill! 


'■:■      si 


it 


li- 
lt 

I' 


"TW. 


592    GENERAL  REMARKS  ON  THE  NORTHWEST  CO^  ,  T. 


titude  till  they  attain,  at  Long's  Peak,  an  elevation  of  fifteen  thousand  feef 
while  the  plains  to  the  east  have  an  elevation  of  six  thousand  feet,  and  the 
mountains  to  the  west,  forming  the  east  rim  of  the  great  basin,  have  an  elevation 
of  eight  thousand  two  hundred  and  thirty-four  feet,  and  the  country  between  it 
and  the  South  Pass  an  elevation  of  six  tliousand  two  hundred  and  thirty- 
four  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Tlie  highest  point  on  the  .oad  in  the 
summit  line  at  MuUan's  Pass  has  an  elevation  of  six  thousand  feet,  which  is 
lower  by  fourt-^en  hundred  and  eighty-nine  feet  than  the  South  Pass,  and  allow- 
ing  what  we  find  to  be  here  the  case,  viz :  two  hundred  and  eighty  leet  of  alti- 
tude for  each  degree  of  temperature,  we  see  that  JluUan's  Pass  enjoys  six  de- 
grees of  milder  temperature,  due  to  this  difi'erence  of  altitude  alone.  At  the 
South  Pass  are  many  high  snow  peaks,  as  Fremont's  Peak,  Three  Ttjtons, 
Laramie  Peak,  Long's  Peak,  and  others,  all  of  vhicdi  must  tend  to  modify  the 
temperature ;  whereas,  to  the  north  we  have  no  high  snow  peaks,  but  the 
mountains  have  a  general  elevation  of  from  seven  to  eigh^  thousand  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea,  and  of  most  marked  uniformity  in  point  of  altitude. 

The  high  range  of  the  Wind  River  chain  stands  as  a  curvilinear  wall  to 
deflect  and  direct  the  currents  of  the  atmosphere  as  they  sweep  across  the  con- 
tinent. All  their  slopes  are  well  located  to  reflect  back  the  direct  rays  of  the 
heat  of  the  sun  to  the  valleys  that  lay  at  their  bases.  These  valleys,  already 
warm  by  virtue  of  the  hot  springs  existing  among  them,  receive  this  acciimula- 
ti »e  heat,  which,  driven  by  the  new  currents  of  cold  air  (rom  the  plains,  rises 
and  moves  onward  in  the  form  of  a  river  towards  the  valleys  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  wliere  it  joins  the  milder  current  from  tlie  Pacific  and  diffuses  ovtr 
the  whole  region  a  mild,  healthy,  invigorating,  and  useful  climate." 

While  the  climate  of  the  Valleys,  Plains,  and  Mountains 
is  such  as  we  have  described,  it  is  possible  to  find  almost 
every  mudification  of  heat  and  cold,  and  moisture  and 
dryness,  within  these  general  limits,  by  seeking  certain  al- 
titudes or  depiessions  more  or  less  remote  from  the  sea, 
and  having  the  aid  of  certain  other  influences.  The  vales 
of  Italy,  or  the  glaciers  of  Switzerland  are  alike  accessible. 
■  Beclamation  of  Dry  Lands  by  Irrigation.  In  a  recent 
letter  of  Hon.  J*  hn  Bidwell,  of  California,  is  the  follow- 
ing sensible  proposition :        , 

"  There  arc  millions  of  acres  of  dry  .and  appaiently  sterile  land  to  be  fonrni 
all  over  the  Pacific  slope.  Is  it  always  to  rciiain  in  the  present  condition? 
There  exists  no  necessity  that  it  should  do  so.  Tlie  land  possesses  in  abun- 
dance all  the  elements  (jf  fertility.  There  is  one  and  but  one  remedy — irriga- 
tion.    Some  have  prejudices  against  irrigation,  that  must  be  overcome,  because 


3ST   COx    T. 

fifteen  thousand  feet; 
housand  feet,  and  the 
)asin,  have  an  elevation 
the  country  between  it 
0  hundred  and  thirty- 
oint  on  the  .oad  in  the 
thousand  feet,  which  is 
South  Pass,  and  allow- 
and  eighty  feet  of  alti- 
in's  Pass  enjoys  six  de- 
altitude  alone.    At  the 
s  Peak,  Three  Tet«ns, 
nust  tend  to  modify  the 
li   snow  peaks,  but  the 
<rhv  thousand  feet  above 
point  of  altitude, 
as  a  curvilinear  wall  to 
ey  sweep  across  the  con- 
:k  the  direct  rays  of  the 
These  valleys,  already 
n,  receive  this  acciimula- 
air  li-oiu  the  plains,  rises 
lie  valleys  of  the  Rocky 
Pacific  and  diffuses  over 
sful  climate." 

ins,  and  Mountains 
ble  to  find  almost 
ind  moisture  and 
seeking  certain  al- 
ote  from  the  sea, 
hences.  The  vales 
■c  alike  accessible. 
lion.  In  a  recent 
■uia,  is  the  follow- 


sterile  land  to  be  found 
the  present  condition? 
land  possesses  in  abun- 
but  one  remedy— irriga- 
lust  be  overcome,  because 


GENERAL  REMARKS  ON  THE  NORTHWEST  COAST.    593 

jt  will  rci  ■'•'>  the  united  efTortof  all  who  have  a  property  interest  in  the  State, 
to  begin  and  carry  on  such  an  enterprise  upon  a  scale  worthy  of  the  object  in 
view.  Once  acconipli.shed,  lands  that  are  now  absolutely  worthless  would 
liucoine  most  valuable.  The  same  encouragement  should,  in  my  judjimont,  be 
[riven  to  bringing  water  on  land  that  is  worthless  without  it,  as  to  take  water 
from  land  that  is  useless  with  it.  The  dry,  as  well  as  the  sw.amp,  lands  require 
reclamation— one  will  cost  relatively  as  much  as  the  other.  Why,  then,  should 
not  the  (Joveruinent  be  willing  to  donate  the  dry  lauds  to  the  State  as  well  as 
the  fwamp  lands  ?" 

to  which  the  Alta  California  adds:  '    • 

"  It  is  strictly  true  that  there  are  millions  of  acres  in  California  now  lying 
unclaimed,  unproductive,  unoccupied,  and  worthless,  simply  because  of  lack  of 
irrigiUlon,  which  might  be  supplied.  If  our  State  were  as  well  jn-ovided  with 
ditches  as  Avas  ancient  Judca,  Sjiain  under  the  Arabs,  or  India  <at  the  present 
day,  we  should  have  thrice  as  much  land  fit  for  gardens  as  we  actually  have. 
More  dry  land  than  swamp  needs  reclamation  in  Cal^''ornia.  The  waters  of 
winter  and  the  snows  of  the  Sierras,  by  careful  management,  might  be  made  to 
yield  as  much  treasure  as  the  auriferous  sands  of  the  Sacramento  basin.  Other 
nations  have  reclainu'd  tracts  as  large  and  as  dry  as  the  San  Joaquin  and  Tulai'e 
valleys,  and  why  should  we  not  do  as  much  ?" 

The  same  necessity  will  exist  for  irrigation  in  Eastern 
Oregon  and  Idaho  that  exists  in  California  at  present,  and 
the  means  for  irrigation  are  much  more  abundant,  inas- 
much as  there  are  thousands  of  mountain  streams  of  the 
very  best  water  which  might  be  conveyed  and  converted 
to  purposes  of  irrigation.  The  climate  of  the  West  Coast 
is  in  all  respects  very  similar  to  that  of  ancient  Judea, 
Spain,  and  other  countries  where  by  irrigation  the  barren 
plains  were  made  gardens  of  beauty.  The  great  aque- 
ducts of  the  Romans,  and  even  those  of  the  Spaniards  in 
Mexico,  still  remain  to  testify  to  the  importance  and  value 
of  irrigation  in  warm  and  dry  countries.  There  will  yet  be 
some  wonderful  engineering  performed  west  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  proving  that  Moderns  are  nowise  inferior  in 
energy  or  expedients  to  the  Ancients. 

Productiveness  of  the  soil.  There  is  no  country  which 
will  better  repay  the  expense  of  irrigation  than  this.    Al- 


594   GENERAL  REMARKS  ON  THE  NORTHWEST  COAST. 


I'U^ 


most  every  square  mile,  not  entirely  naked  rock,  is  rich 
and  productive  to  a  wonderful  degree.  You  have  only  to 
cast  seed  and  water  upon  the  loose  sand-hills  about  San 
Francisco  in  California,  to  have  them  become  beds  of 
bloom.  Wherever  water  is  given  to  the  soil  anywhere, 
vegetation  springs  up.  •■m 

In  Western  Oregon,  where  there  is  plenty  of  moisture, 
there  is  a  perfectly  wonderful  amount  of  vegetation,  from 
gigantic  trees  to  gigantic  ferns ;  and  never  has  the  farmer 
failed  of  his  harvest  since  the  settlement  of  the  country. 

There  is  no  doubt  whatever  but  some  method  will  be 
found  of  neutralizing  the  effect  of  the  too  great  propor- 
tion of  alkali  in  some  parts  of  Eastern  Oregon,  by  which 
process  great  results  in  the  way  of  grain  and  vegetables 
may  be  expected.  Those  foot-hills  of  the  mountains 
where  the  light  volcanic  ash  is  found,  ought  to  be  put  into 
grape  culture,  as  there  is  no  better  soil  for  the  production 
of  that  delicious  fruit.  There  are  marsh  lands  for  meadows 
and  uplands  for  sheep-grazing ;  in  short,  every  reasonable 
want  of  humanity  may  be  supplied  in  this  truly  wonder- 
ful region,  which  will  become  in  time  the  glory  and  pride 
of  the  great  Republic  of  the  United  States. 

Scenenj  of  the  North-  West  Coast.  Hardly  can  there  be 
in  any  one  country  in  the  world  more  of  the  elements  of 
the  grand  and  wonderful  than  are  to  be  found  among  the 
mountains,  and  along  the  rivers  of  Oregon  and  the  adja- 
cent Territories.  The  massive  size  and  extent  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains  rather  lessens  the  idea  of  their  superior 
height,  but  the  steeper  slopes  of  the  Cascade  Mountains, 
rising  as  they  do,  on  one  side,  from  a  valley,  and  made 
more  striking  by  the  numbers  of  snowy  peaks,  covered 
too  with  magnificent  forests  far  up  their  rugged  sides,  all 
enhances  their  appearance  of  grandeur. 

But  it  is  when  they  are  explored  and  their  solitary  won- 


V 


;ST  COAST. 


T 


GENERAL  REMARKS  ON  THE  NORTHWEST  COAST. 


595 


their  solitary  won- 


ders brought  to  view  that  their  real  magnificence  is  under- 
stood. Notwithstanding  their  narrow  base,  the  Cascade 
Mountains  are  not  to  be  crossed  by  one  dividing  ridge,  but 
are  formed  of  many  ridges  running  in  all  directions,  and 
thrown  together  in  extraordinary  confusion,  making  awful 
chasms  which  impede  the  progress  of  the  explorer,  and 
presenting  acclivities  up  which  it  is  in  vain  to  attempt  to 
proceed.  Once  upon  their  summits,  however,  and  the 
traveler's  toil  is  repaid.  "In  one  view  he  may  embrace 
the  rugged  steeps  of  the  Green  Mountains,  the  biue, 
wooded  slopes  of  the  Alleghanies,  and  the  ice-crowned 
peaks  of  the  Alps;  the  volcanic  piles  ol  the  Andes,  the 
broad  plateaux  of  Brazil,  the  fertile  prairies  of  the  upper 
Mississippi,  and  the  lawns,  groves  and  copses  of  the  sunny 
South.  To  the  eastward  he  beholds  an  immense  plateau, 
or  elevated  plain,  relieved  at  distant  intervals  by  spurs 
from  the  mountain  chains,  and  sloping  gently  in  different 
directions,  toward  the  various  streams,  which,  wending 
their  way  through  mountain  gorges  to  the  ocean,  or  to 
some  silent  lake,  drain  the  eastern  portion  of  the  State. 
To  the  west  he  surveys  a  country  diversified  by  great  rivers, 
and  small  streamlets;  by  tall  mountains,  and  deeply  embo- 
somed vale ;  by  gentle  undulations,  and  precipitous,  high- 
walled  canons;  by  dark,  frow.  ing  forests  of  pine  and  fir, 
spruce  and  cedar,  which  the  eye  fails  to  penetrate,  and 
natural  gardens  all  carpeted  over  with  luxuriant  grasses, 
redolent  with  the  odors  of  wild  flowers,  and  full  of  the 
music  of  winged  choristers." 

Down  the  precipitous  cliffs  rush  mountain  torrents,  leap- 
ing from  rock  to  rock,  by  their  number  giving  to  this 
chain  of  mountains  their  characteristic  name.  And  when 
these  mountain  torrents  have  reached  the  level  of  the 
plain  below  they  scarcely  lose  their  mountain  peculiarities, 
but  go  dashing  and  foaming   over  rocky  beds,  almost  to 


I 


i 

I 


i 


i;- 


596   GENERAL  REMARKS  ON  THE  NORTHWEST  COAST. 


their  very  mouths ;  so  much  disturbed  by  rocks,  and  so 
rapid  that  very  few  rivers  having  their  source  in  the  Cas- 
cade Mountains  can  ever  be  made  navigable. 

Very  many  curious  things  are  found  on  the  summits  of 
the  Rocky  and  Cascade  Mountains ;  wonderful  lakes,  moun- 
tains of  cinders,  fresh  as  if  just  from  the  volcanic  forge ; 
sea-shells  and  corals.  One  of  these  wonderful  mountain 
lakes  is  thus  described  by  a  gentleman  who  visited  it : 

"  Upon  risinfj;  the  slope  bounding  tlie  lake,  the  firft  hnprcfision  made  upon 
your  mind  is  one  of  disai)pointnient ;  it  does  not  come  up  to  your  expectations; 
but  this  is  only  momentary.  A  second  look  and  you  begin  to  comprehend  the 
majestic  beauties  of  the  scenery  spread  out  before  you,  and  you  sit  down  on  the 
brink  of  the  precipice,  and  feast  your  eyes  on  the  awful  grandeur;  your  thoughts 
wander  back  thousands  of  years  to  the  time  when,  where  now  is  a  placid  sheet 
of  water,  there  was  a  lake  of  fire,  throwing  its  cinders  and  ashes  to  a  vast  dis- 
tance in  every  direction.  The  whole  surroundings  prove  this  lake  to  be  the 
crater  of  an  extinct  volcano.  Tlie  appearance  of  the  water  in  the  basin,  as 
seen  from  the  top  of  the  mountain,  is  that  of  a  vast  circular  sheet  of  canvass, 
upon  which  some  painter  had  been  exercising  his  art.  Tlie  color  of  the  water 
is  blue,  but  in  very  many  different  shades,  and  like  the  colors  in  variegated  silk, 
continually  changing.  Now  a  spot  will  be  dark  blue,  almost  approaching  black, 
in  the  next  moment  it  will  change  to  a  very  pale  blue ;  and  it  is  thus  continu- 
ally changing  from  one  shade  to  another.  I  cannot  account  for  this  changeable- 
ncss,  as  the  sky  was  perfectly  cleai",  and  it  could  not  have  been  caused  by  any 
shadows  ;  there  was,  however,  a  gentle  breeze  which  caused  a  ri2)ple  of  the 
waters ;  this  may  account  for  it. 

At  first  sight  a  person  would  not  estimate  the  surface  of  the  water  to  be  more 
than  two  or  three  hundred  feet  below  the  summit  of  the  surrounding  bluffs ;  and 
it  is  only  atlcr  a  steady  look,  almost  perpendicularly  down  into  the  water,  that 
you  begin  to  comprehend  the  distance.  In  looking  down  into  the  lake  the 
vision  seems  to  stop  before  reaching  the  bottom,  and,  to  use  a  common  expres- 
sion, you  have  to  look  twice  before  you  see  the  bottom. 

Heretofore  it  has  been  thought  by  those  who  have  visited  the  lake,  that  it 
was  impossible  to  get  to  the  water,  and  this  was  also  my  impression  at  first 
eight,  and  I  should  have  been  contented  to  remain  on  the  summit,  and  view  its 
beauties  from  that  point,  without  attempting  to  get  to  the  water,  but  for  Ser- 
geant Stearns  and  ISIr.  Ford,  who,  after  gazing  awhile  from  the  top,  disappeared 
over  the  precipice,  and  in  a  few  minutes  were  at  the  bottom,  near  the  water's 
edge,  where  no  human  being  ever  stood  before.  Their  shouts  induced  Mr. 
Coats  and  myself  to  attempt  the  feat,  which  is  in  fact  only  perilous  in  imagina- 
tion. A  spring  of  water  bursts  out  of  the  mountain  near  the  top,  on  the  side 
where  we  were,  and  by  following  down  the  channel  which  the  water  has  made, 


•  COAST. 


GENERAL  REMARKS  ON  THE  NORTHWEST  COAST. 


m 


rocks,  and  so 
rcG  in  the  Cas- 

he  summits  of 
'ill  lakes,  moun- 
olcanic  forge; 
irful  mountain 
I  visited  it : 

prossion   made  upon 

0  your  cx])C!ctations; 
n  to  comprehend  the 

you  sit  down  on  the 
idcur ;  your  thoughts 
now  is  a  placid  sheet 

1  ashes  to  a  vast  dis- 
'  this  lake  to  be  the 
rater  in  the  basin,  as 
lar  sheet  of  canvass, 
he  color  of  the  water 
)rs  in  variegated  silk, 
St  approaching  black, 
nd  it  is  thus  continu- 
t  for  this  changeable- 
1  been  caused  by  any 
lused  a  ripple  of  the 

the  water  to  be  more 
rounding  bluffs ;  and 
n  into  the  water,  that 
\vn  into  the  lake  the 
ise  a  common  expres- 

itcd  the  lake,  that  it 
ny  impression  at  first 
summit,  and  view  its 
c  water,  but  for  Ser- 

the  top,  disappeared 
tom,  near  the  water's 

shouts  induced  IVIr. 
Y  perilous  in  imagina- 
ir  the  top,  on  the  side 

the  water  has  made, 


a  good  footing  may  be  established  all  the  way  down.  In  all  probability,  this  Is 
llic  only  place  in  tlie  whole  circumference  of  the  lake  where  the  water  is  accessi- 
ble, although  Sergeant  Stearns  clambered  around  tlie  edge  of  the  lake  for  a  short 
distance,  and  ascended  to  the  summit  by  a  did'erent  route  from  the  one  we 
(lescended  ;  yet  he  does  not  thiidc  he  could  go  down  where  he  came  up.  The 
water  in  the  lake  is  clear  as  crystal,  and  about  the  same  temperature  with  tlie 
well  water  in  llogue  River  valley.  We  saw  no  fish  of  any  kind,  nor  evi'u 
insects  in  the  water ;  the  only  thing  we  saw  that  indicated  that  there  are  fish 
in  the  lake  was  a  kingfisher.  In  ascending,  I  measured  the  distance  as  well  as 
I  could,  from  point  to  point,  by  the  eye,  and  conclude  that  it  is  from  seven  to 
eight  liundred  feet  perpendicular  from  the  water  to  the  summit  of  the  blulV. 
'flic  lake  seems  to  be  very  nearly  circular,  and  is  from  seven  to  eight  miles  in 
diameter ;  and  except  at  two  or  three  points,  the  bluff  is  about  the  same  altitude. 
Near  the  western  shore  of  the  lake  is  an  island,  about  one-half  mile  in  diame- 
ter, upon  which  there  is  considerable  timber  growing.  The  island  is  not  more 
than  one-quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  western  shore  of  the  lake,  and  its  shape  is 
a  frustruni  of  a  cone  :  the  top  seems  to  be  depressed,  and  I  think  there  is  a  small 
crater  in  the  summit  of  the  island.  I  think  a  path  could  be  made  from  the 
suiuuiit  to  the  water's  edge,  at  the  western  edge  of  the  lake  ;  for  the  formation 
seems  to  be  entirely  pomice  stone  at  that  point,  and  to  slope  to  the  water's  edge 
at  a  less  angle  than  any  place  else  around  the  lake ;  at  this  point  also,  a 
boat  could  be  let  safely  down  to  the  water  by  a  rope. 

I  do  not  know  who  first  saw  this  lake,  nor  do  I  think  it  should  be  named  after 
the  discoverer.  Sergeant  Stearns  and  Peyton  Ford  are  the  first  white  men  who 
ever  reached  its  waters,  and  if  named  after  any  person,  should  be  named  for 
them  ;  but  as  I  do  not  believe  a  more  majestic  sheet  of  water  is  to  be  found 
upon  the  face  of  the  globe,  I  propose  the  name  of  "  Majesty."  It  will  be  visited 
by  thousands  hereafter,  and  some  person  would  do  well  to  build  upon  its  banks 
a  house  where  visitors  could  be  entertained,  and  to  keep  a  boat  or  boats  upoa 
its  waters,  that  its  beauties  might  be  seen  to  a  better  advantage.' 

The  grandeur  of  the  Columbia  River,  which  has  else- 
where been  partially  described,  the  wonders  of  Puget 
Sound,  the  splendor  of  the  snow-peaks  bathed  in  sunrise 
or  sunset  colors,  the  noble  Mt.  Hood  blushing  like  a  rose 
from  summit  to  base — the  beautiful  blue  and  purple  of 
the  distant  ranges,  either  east  or  west,  all  these  united, 
make  Oregon  and  Washington  more  remarkable  for  scenery 
than  any  other  States  in  the  Union,  not  excepting  re- 
nowned California,  and  mountainous  Nevada. 

Advantages  for  Commerce.     We  make  use  of  the  foUow- 


i  ! 


698        GENERAL    REMARKS   ON    THE   NORTHWEST    COAST. 

ing  extract  copied  from  a  Report  on  the  Wealth-  and  Re- 
sources of  Oregon^  and  which  applies  equally  well  to  Wash- 
ington, only  adding  to  the  sections  enumerated,  the  names 
of  other  sections  north  of  the  Columbia : 


"  The  internal  trade  of  Oregon  will  always  he  confined  to  the  trade  between 
tlie  agricultural  counties  in  the  Wallaniet,  Unipcjuu,  and  Rogue  Rivtr  valleys, 
and  the  mining  counties  of  Eastern  Oregon  and  Idaho  Territory,  and  will  con- 
sist simply  in  the  transportation  of  the  produce  and  manufacture  of  one  section 
to  the  other,  to  be  exchanged  for  the  bullion  or  coin  of  the  mines,  and  will  bo 
carried  on  by  means  of  a  railroad  to  be  constructed  tlirough  the  Wallamet 
valley,  terminating  at  some  point  on  the  Colunibia,  from  which  river  steamers 
■will  ply  as  far  up  as  the  centre  of  Idaho.  To  satisfy  the  most  incredulous  that 
this  trade  will  be  rapidly  and  greatly  enlarged,  we  have  only  to  look  at  its 
present  rapid  growth,  the  territory  to  be  accommodated,  and  its  resources. 

The  extent  of  country  which  is  tributary  to  the  agricultural  resources  of 
Oregon  is  embraced  in  all  that  country  from  the  summit  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains westward  to  the  Cascade  Range,  and  between  the  head-waters  of  the 
northern  and  southern  branches  of  the  great  Columbia,  and  reaching  from  the 
head  of  the  Owyhee  on  the  south,  away  to  the  Kootenai  River  and  its  lately 
discovered  rich  mines  on  the  border  of  British  America,  being  an  extent  of 
country  about  eight  liundrcd  miles  wide,  and  nine  hundred  miles  long,  or  seven 
hundred  and  twenty  thousand  square  miles.  This  vast,  and  as  yet  almost 
unexplored  region,  is  by  no  means  barren  or  inhospitable.  The  Catholic  Mis- 
sionaries have  maintained  their  Missions  among  the  Indians  at  the  farthest 
point  north  for  many  years,  raising  all  the  vegetables  and  grain  necessary  for 
their  use.  Throughout  the  whole  extent  there  are  now  nuning  settlements 
spreading  in  every  direction.  What  was  two  years  ago  a  vast,  unbroken 
wilderness,  inhabited  only  by  wild  beasts  and  Indians,  now  contains  not  less 
than  thirty  thousand  American  citizens,  with  cities  and  towns,  saw-mills,  quartz 
mills,  flouring  mills,  with  all  the  busy  hum  of  peaceful  industry.  And  from 
this  great  internal,  mountain  locked  basin,  is  now  being  shipped  down  the 
Columbia  one  million  dollars  of  gold-dust  per  month,  in  exchange  for  flour, 
bacon,  beans,  and  merchandise  sent  up.  Tliis  handsome  yield  of  gold  will, 
according  to  the  present  rate  of  progress,  be  increased  to  two  and  a  half  or 
three  millions  per  month  in  the  course  of  another  year. 

Oregon  possesses  peculiar  facilities  for  the  creation  and  maintenance  of  a 
large  foreign  commerce.  She  possesses  unlimitod  means  for  building  ships- 
timber,  copper,  iron,  coal,  water-power,  agricultural  productions,  a  harbor 
equal  to  that  of  New  York,  and  a  maritime  situation  on  the  direct  line  of  that 
immense  trade  carried  on  by  the  nations  of  the  West  with  the  nations  of  the 
East.  The  harbor  of  the  Columbia  River  looks  out  upon  the  ports  of  Russisin 
America,  British  Columbia,  and  Vancouver  Island,  the  west  coast  of  Mexico, 
Central  America,  New  Granada.  Equador,  Peru,  Chili,  and  Patagonia  on  the 


w  ■»■!  tm 


'   COAST. 

''calth  and  Re- 
well  to  Wash- 
ted,  the  names 

•>  the  trade  between 
lof^ue  Kivir  valleys, 
rilory,  and  will  con- 
icture  of  one  section 
3  mines,  and  will  bo 
jugh  the  Walhimet 
^hich  river  steamers 
lost  incredulous  that 
e  only  to  look  at  its 
nd  its  resources, 
cultural  resources  of 
if  the  Rocky  Moun- 
!  head-waters  of  the 
nd  reaching  from  the 

River  and  its  lately 
,  being  an  extent  of 
1  miles  long,  or  seven 
and  as  yet  almost 
The  Catholic  Mis- 
idians  at  the  farthest 
1  grain  necessary  for 
y  mining  settlements 
go  a  vast,  unbroken 
now  contains  not  less 
ivns,  saw-mills,  quartz 
industry.  And  fi-om 
g  shipped  down  the 
n  exchange  for  Hour, 
ne  yield  of  gold  will, 

to  two  and  a  half  or 

nd  maintenance  of  a 
for  building  ships— 
roductions,  a  harbor 
;he  direct  line  of  that 
th  the  nations  of  the 
the  ports  of  Russian 
west  coast  of  Mexico, 
md  Patagonia  on  the 


(JENKIIAL    RKMAUKS   ON   THK    NORTHWEST    COAST. 


599 


American  Continent,  and  on  tho  Eastern  ports  of  the  Russian  Empire,  India, 
(.'liiuii,  Japan,  Australia,  the  Islands  of  Oceanica,  the  Sandwich  Islaudn,  and 
the  whale  fisheries.  The  ports  of  all  these  countries  are  much  rearer  to  the 
Columbia  River  than  they  are  to  any  of  the  ports  of  the  Atlantic!  States. 
Tiicy  are  all  of  easy  access,  and  there  is  no  reason  why  Orej^on  should  not 
coininenec  competing  for  their  trade.  In  tho  year  18G0  tho  United  States 
exported  to  the  above  named  ports  domestic  produce  amounting  to  the  sura  of 
Sill»,U4.'j,!J'J8,  and  imported  from  the  same  places,  in  exchange,  the  produce  of 
said  countries  amounting  to.  $19,551,180,  Tho  imports  from  China  alono 
amounted  to  $i;5,5fiG,587. '  But  wc  are  told  that  the  Pacific  Coast  cannot  eom- 
])('te  with  the  Atlantic  States  for  this  trade.  The  custom-house  exhibit  shows 
that  the  Pacific  Coast  can  and  does  compete  for  this  trade  already,  and  not  only 
this,  but  also  tho  trade  to  Liverpool." 

Then  follow  quotations  from  the  "  Market  Review"  of 
the  San  Francisco  Bulletin  which  show  that  the  export 
trade  from  the  port  of  San  Francisco  for  1864,  amounted 
to  $6,337,090.38;  an  increase  of  two  millions  over  the 
year  1862.  '    -  .  •     ■      . 

"  How  much  of  this  produce  exported  from  San  Francisco  should  be  credited 
to  Oregon,  we  arc  unable  to  say,  but  that  a  large  portion  of  it  is  Oregon  ])ro- 
duce,  we  know  from  the  fact  that  the  steamers  and  sailing  vessels  plying  be- 
tween San  Francisco  and  tho  Columbia  River,  always  return  to  Calitbrnia 
freighted  with  Oregon  produce.  We  simply  give  this  report  to  show  what  has 
already  been  done  in  foreign  exportation  from  San  Francisco,  and  even  admit- 
ting that  it  is  all  California  produce,  we  know  very  well  that  Avhat  will  pay  a 
California  fiirmer  to  ship  abroad,  will  also  pay  an  Oregon  farmer,  with  equal 
advantages. 

Tlie  only  matter  which  should  now  prevent  tlie  merchants  of  the  Pacific 
Coast  from  becoming  importers  to  the  United  States  of  the  teas,  coffee,  spices, 
barks,  dye-woods,  cotton,  sugar,  rice,  Japanese  ware,  matting,  gold  and  silver 
of  the  above  named  countries,  is,  that  we  have  not  yet  got  the  ships,  or  money 
to  do  this  business.  For  the  year  ending  Juno  1st,  1864,  Shanghae,  China, 
exported  more  than  $25,000,000  worth  of  cotton,  and  now  we  should  endeavor 
to  exchange  our  jiroduce  for  this  cotton  of  China,  and  manufacture  it  hero  in 
Oregon,  and  build  up  a  Lowell  on  the  Pacific. 

This  golden  harvest  of  trade  is  not  yet  ours,  but  when  the  Northern  Pacific 
Railroad  shall  have  been  completed,  it  will  become  ours  from  tho  necessity  of 
the  case.  ^Vliat  we  want  most  now  is  a  lino  of  ships  nmning  direct  from  Now 
York  to  the  Columbia  River,  bringing  out  our  merchandise,  and  carrying  back 
via  China  and  the  East  Indies,  our  produce,  lumber,  spars,  &c.  We  are  now 
paying  an  immense  annual  tax  to  California  capitalists  by  receiving  and  ship- 
ping everything  through  the  San  Francisco  warehouses.     All  our  wheat,  wool, 


'4 

''-'  '^^^^^m^mi' 

>ull 

F^II|^^^^^^KT;i 

r 
1^ 

^ 

GOO        GENERAL   IIEMAUK8    ON   THE    NORTHWEST    COAST. 

&c.,  tliat,  reaches  a  foroifjn  market.,  exoppt  what  litthi  direct  tra(h>  wo  hare  with 
tiie  Samlwich  Islaiuls,  is  shipju-d  first  to  San  Francisco,  wlicre  it  has  to  nay 
wliarfajrc,  drayaffe,  Htoni^^c  and  conunission,  before  it  can  bo  reshipped.  Our 
iiicrcliandisc  coiniii';  to  tliis  State  lias  to  pass  tiiroii;;h  tlie  same  taxing  imx-ess 
at  San  Francisco,  in  adilition  to  tlic  profits  of  tiu;  iniportcu'  l)i'(()re  it.  It  is  no 
wonder  that  Orcijon  is  in  the  shade  of  California,  and  it  oiiij;lit  to  remain  so  as 
long  as  wc  will  not  make  some  clTort  to  remedy  this  state  of  aifain . ' 

The  above  quotation  throws  some  light  upon  the  com- 
mercial condition  of  the  Northwest  Coast,  and  explains 
pretty  clearly  the  feeling  of  its  people  regarding  that  po- 
sition. So  far  the  Manufactures  of  this  countr)-  have 
been  confined  to  lumber,  flour,  woolen  goods,  some  coarse 
leather,  a  little  turpentine,  an  inferior  article  of  ^(Ottery, 
a  limited  quantity  of  matches,  and  as  much  mav.'n"  i^ry  as 
three  or  four  small  foundries  and  machine  shops  could 
turn  out.  Everything  that  is  used  on  the  farm,  in  the 
garden,  household,  or  in  the  mines,  is  imported  at  a  great 
expense.  Iron  has  begun  to  be  manufactured  in  Oregon, 
and  so  has  salt,  but  the  complete  development  of  these 
things  must  wait,  first  for  capital ;  secondly,  for  railroads. 

Probable  Railroad  Routes.  The  only  railroad  under 
construction  on  the  whole  Northwest  Coast,  is  the  one 
now  building  doAvn  the  Wallamet  Valley,  and  called  the 
Oregon  Central.  It  is  intended  to  connect  the  Columbia 
River  with  San  Francisco  Bay,  and  will  form  a  portion  of 
that  great  line  of  railway  by  which  Lake  Superior,  Puget 
Sound,  and  San  Francisco  Bay  will  eventually  be  united. 
Owing  to  the  influence  exerted  by  Portland  capital,  the 
Oregon  Central  has  been  commenced  at  that  point,  but 
that  Portland  will  long  remain  the  northern  terminus  is 
incredible,  when  its  position,  and  its  distance  from  tfee 
Columbia  River  are  considered.  A  point  for  the  northern 
terminus  of  the  Oregon  Central  will  undoubtedly  be  fixed 
where  it  will  connect  by  ferriage  over  the  Columbia,  with 
a  road  down  the  Cowelitz  Valley  from  Puget  Sound,  thus 


GENKUAL    Uli.MARKS   ON    TUE    NOUTUWEai    COAST. 


601 


makiiii:^  one  continuous  rorid  tlirouf^h  the  whole  length  of 
Wusliiui,4uii,  Oi't'goii,  and  Calilornia,  as  tur  as  San  Fran- 
cisco, if  nol  as  I'ar  as  San  Diego. 

The  question  undeeided  at  present  by  tlie  Oregon  Cen- 
tnd  is,  Avhetluir  to  carry  the  road  over  the  (.'alnpooya, 
Uni})(|uu,  and  Siskiyou  Mountains,  directly  south,  and 
open  up  the  IJmpqua  and  Rogue  River  ValUiys  to  com- 
merce, or  to  take  it  by  a  single  easy  pass  through  the 
Cascade  ^fountains,  at  or  near  Diamond  Peak,  and  thence 
southward  along  the  almost  level  country  to  the  head- 
waters of  the  Sacramento.  The  latter  would  be  the  cheap- 
est of  construction,  and  might  be  made  to  form  a  branch 
of  the  Central  Pacific,  while  the  former  would  take  iu  its 
course  some  of  the  most  desirable  country  in  Oregon.      , 

Strong  efforts  are  being  made  to  get  a  branch  road  from 
the  Union  Pacific  to  some  point  on  the  upper  Columbia, 
either  at  the  Dalles,  Umatilla,  or  Wallula.  It  is  said  that 
in  case  the  road  comes  to  the  Dalles  it  will  cross  the  river 
there,  and  pass  on  down  the  Columbia  to  some  point  be- 
low the  mouth  of  the  Wallamet,  either  there  to  build  up  a 
commercial  town,  or  to  connect  with  the  road  up  the 
Cowelitz  Valley  going  north,  and  the  Oregon  Central, 
going  south. 

Idaho  and  Montana  are  waiting  on  the  action  of  these 
railroad  projectors,  glad  to  see  communication  with  the 
coast  made  easy  on  any  terms,  and  willing  to  lend  their 
aid  to  the  first  company  in  the  field. 

A  strong  sentiment,  however,  prevails  throughout  the 
Northwest  in  favor  of  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad.  To 
this  favorite  enterprise,  Montana  and  Idaho,  Washington 
and  Oregon,  all  and  each,  lend  their  preference,  and  so  far 
as  it  is  available,  are  willing  to  lend  their  material  aid.  All 
understand  that  the  Columbia  River,  taken  in  conjunction 
with  Puget  Sound,  offers  to  the  commerce  of  the  whole 


r 


11  ^ 


602   GENERAL  REMARKS  ON  THE  NORTHWEST  COAST. 

Pacific  the  most  complete  resources  wliich  the  trade  of  the 
world  could  require.  And  every  intelligent  citizen  of  the 
Northwest  loolcs  forward  in  fancy  to  a  day  when  busy 
millions  shall  occupy  this  territory  we  have  so  inefficiently 
described,  and  when  it  shall  be  the  most  favored  portion 
of  the  greatest  earthly  Republic. 

When  Thomas  II.  Benton,  in  a  speech  delivered  at  St. 
Louis,  in  1845,  prophjcied  that  the  men  then  listening  to 
him  should  see  with  li^'ing  eyes  a  railroad  to  the  Pacific 
Ocean,  and  the  trade  of  China  and  Japan  flowing  over  it, 
he  was  believed  to  be  an  enthusiast,  if  no  worse.  In 
twenty-four  years  his  prophecy  has  been  accomplished, 
and  doubtless  some  of  his  hearers  of  that  day  have  enjoyed, 
or  will  yet  enjoy,  a  trip  by  railway  across  the  continent. 

But  Benton's  pet  scheme  was  a  railroad  which  was  to 
connect  with  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  River.  It  was 
Oregon,  then  undivided,  that  he  looked  to  as  the  greatest 
country  on  the  American  continent.  Perhaps  some  lis- 
tener to  his  speech  of  1845,  may  live  to  see  his  judgment 
vindicaLed.     That  is  oar  hope  at  least. 


THE   END. 


COAST. 

e  trade  of  the 
citizen  of  the 
r  when  busy 
!0  inefficiently 
^^ored  portion 

livered  at  St. 
n  listening  to 
to  the  Pacific; 
owing  over  it, 
10  worse.  In 
accomplished, 
have  enjoyed, 
e  continent. 

which  was  to 
River.  It  was 
as  the  greatest 
laps  some  lis- 

his  judgment 


33X1..     lSi,A.-SII-3Sl*ISi 
GREAT      PICTORIAL      WORK, 

ARCTIC  EXPLORATIOIS, 

CONTAINING   OBAPIIIO   DELINEATIONS   OV 

LIFE  AMID  THE  ICE, 

THE  WONDERS  OF  THE  GREAT  POLAR  GEA,  AND  THE 
MARVELOUS  ESCAPE  OF  THE  EXPLORERS 

FROM  THE 

RELENTLESS   FRCST-LAND, 

WHICH  ao  Lono  htld  thkm  in  m  oraip, 

ILLUSTRATED  WITH  TWENTT-TlIREii  ELEQANT  FULL  PAGE,  AND  NEARLY  THREE  HUNDBKD 
OTUER  ENORAVINGS  ON  STEEL  AND  WOOD,  PROU  SKETCHES  BY  TUE  AUTHOR. 

WirH    A    BIOGRAPHICAL    SKETCH    UY    DR.    KANE, 

JTi.     PROF.     CHARLES    W.     8U1ELD8,     D.    D.,     OV    PKINJETON    COLLEOE,     N.    J. 

This  celebrated  work  is  published  in  One  Elegant  Octavo  Volume  of  768 
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iV;f>- 


This  sublime  and  niovinfr  narrati\  o  will  have  a  charm  and  a  power  among  men  as  long 
as  heroism  continues  to  giiin  reveroncc.  No  library  in  the  laud  will  bo  tolerably  com- 
plete without  it. — Neiv  York  Independeiri. 

It  is  a  wonderful  book,  and  will  bo  for  future  ages  one  of  the  proudest  monuments  of 
our  mitivo  land. — Protectant  Churchman. 

A  nnrrativo  of  actual  fact  and  experience,  it  yet  possesses  the  fascination  of  the  most 
intensely  wrought  fiction. — Ghurrh  Advocate. 

Few  novels  wore  ever  written  tluit  aro  so  fuscinating  ant*  so  thrilling  ns  this  anstudiod 
«toryof  un  endurance  that  was  heroic,  and  a  daring  that  wcs  sublime. — Libei  alWiristian. 

We  commend  the  work  with  emphasis  and  without  qi'alification,  as  ono  which  equally 
fascinates,  instructs,  and  kindles  the  reader.. — Morniiuj  iStar,  Dover,  N.  H. 

Kane's  Arctic  Explorations. — Wo  shall  never  forget  the  deep  interest,  almost  reach- 
ing cntliusiasm,  witli  M'hich  the  public  first  read  the  romantic  and  thrilling  adventures 
ol'  Dr.  Kane  in  the  Arctic  regions,  and  a  new  edition  of  that  valuable  book  will  be 
warmly  welcomed.  It  will  never  grow  old  ;  it  is  too  great  a  contribution  to  science  to 
be  laid  upon  the  slielf ;  it  is  too  intrinsically  interesting  in  its  well-wrought  narrative  to 
become  a  thing  of  tho  past,  and  the  later  journeys  into  the  ice-regions  by  Hayes  and 
otliers  only  cnlT  renewed  attention  to  the  former  work  of  Dr.  Kane.  Tlie  book,  is  beau- 
tifully illustrated  with  stool  plates  and  now  cuts,  and  is  to  bo  roconmiended  in  all  re- 
spects. It.  W.  Bliss  &  Co.,  ot  Hartford,  Ct. ,  ..re  the  publishers,  and  tiiey  have  performoi 
their  part  of  tho  work  in  a  very  creditable  mimuer. —  Waiehman  <£  Uejiector,  Jioston. 


Agents  wanted. 


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R.  W.  BLISS  &  CO.,  Hartford,  Ct,  and  Toledo,  Ohio. 

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